JP2023169924A - Jacket paper pattern correction method - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a jacket paper pattern correction method which can generate a paper pattern which matches a body type of a wearer even if there is no one to take measurements or the wearer does not come to a store.SOLUTION: A jacket paper pattern correction method includes the steps of: preparing a paper pattern prototype which is constituted of an upper front body part and an upper back body part, in which the upper front body part is divided into a front center part and front side parts with a shoulder front perpendicular line as a border and the upper back body part is divided into a back center part and back side parts with a shoulder back perpendicular line as the boundary; measuring body dimensions of a wearer; calculating an area ratio between a chest center part and chest lateral parts when the chest above a bust line is divided into a chest center part and chest lateral parts on the basis of dimensions measured in the measuring step; and adjusting a front area ratio and a back area ratio on the basis of the area ratio.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 5

Description

The present invention relates to a pattern correction method for outerwear such as suits and coats, and particularly to a technique for creating a pattern suitable for the wearer's individual body shape without basting.

Conventionally, in order to create a paper pattern according to the wearer's body type, the wearer goes to the manufacturer's store, has their measurements taken by a technician, and then creates the paper pattern. In other words, each manufacturer and store has its own unique pattern pattern, and the pattern pattern is graded, or enlarged or reduced, to match the wearer's body size to roughly match the size.

By the way, the shape of the human torso varies from person to person. For example, people have different body shapes, such as people with well-developed and thick chests and people with hunched backs. In order to create a pattern that fits each individual body type, a technician uses a tape measure to measure the detailed dimensions of the wearer's body, and based on the measured dimensions, creates a pattern prototype owned by the manufacturer or store. By making corrections, a paper pattern is created that matches the wearer's body shape.

In such a procedure for creating a paper pattern, it is necessary for the wearer to go to the store and for a technician to be present at the store. However, in the modern age where network technology has developed, methods that require two parties to be in the same location at the same time are inefficient, and a service that is more user-friendly is desired.

In addition, the correction of the paper pattern based on the paper pattern pattern according to the body shape largely depends on the craftsman's intuition and experience, and it cannot be said that there is a method based on a specific theory or methodology.

An example of a method of applying various dimensions of the wearer's body to the correction of a pattern is based on the dimensions of a specific part of the body (Patent Document 1, Patent Document 2).

Patent No. 5403724 Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2000-265313

According to the techniques disclosed in Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2, by creating a paper pattern based on the dimensions of a specific part of the wearer's actual body, a paper pattern pattern that takes into account the wearer's body characteristics to some extent is created. can be generated.

However, the techniques disclosed in Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2 are corrections based on the dimensions, that is, the length, of a specific part of the body, and therefore do not take into account the weight balance of the fabric. In other words, in outerwear such as suits, jackets, and coats, each part, such as the front body and back body, does not exist independently, but each part is connected to form a single outerwear. Therefore, even if the dimensions of a specific part are corrected to match the shape of the body, the balance of the fabric is often not ensured when the garment is actually worn, making it difficult to make it fit snugly to the body.

In view of these problems, the present invention provides a method for correcting a pattern pattern for outerwear that allows a pattern pattern to be created that matches the body shape of the wearer without the need for a person to take measurements or even without visiting the store. The purpose is to

As a result of intensive research, the present inventor focused on the fact that there is a proportional relationship between the area of each part of the fabric and its weight, and by considering the balance of the area of the fabric based on a specific point, the weight of the fabric It has been discovered that the distribution can be optimized and a pattern can be created that fits the wearer's body shape. In other words, we discovered that in order for clothing to fit snugly to the torso, it is important to distribute the weight among the parts that make up the clothing. The present invention was achieved by focusing on the rotational movement of the fabric around a base point and the fact that an appropriate fit is generated by the rotational movement.

The present invention provides the following solution.

The upper wear pattern pattern correction method according to the first feature uses the front shoulder base point, which is the boundary between the front body part and the back body part, as the apex, the front neck line, which is the front line around the neck, and the center edge of the body. The upper front body part is defined by the front center line that defines the front center line, the bust line that defines the chest circumference, the arm front edge line that defines the front edge of the armhole, and the front shoulder ridge line, and the boundary between the front body part and the back body part. The back neck line, which is the back line of the neck, the center line of the back, which defines the dorsal edge of the body, the bust line, which defines the chest circumference, and the back of the arm, which defines the rear edge of the armhole. The upper front body part is divided into a front center part and a front armpit part with the front shoulder perpendicular line hanging vertically downward from the front shoulder base as the border. At the same time, the upper back body part is divided into a center back part and a back armpit part with the back shoulder perpendicular line hanging vertically downward from the back shoulder base as the border, and the wearer's body dimensions are prepared. Based on the dimensions measured in the measuring step and the measuring step, the chest above the bust line is defined as the center of the chest, with a line extending downward from the intersection of the frontal plane of the body and the line around the neck as the boundary. a step of calculating the area ratio of the central part of the chest and the lateral part of the chest when divided into the lateral parts of the chest, a front area ratio that is the area ratio of the front center part and the front armpit part based on the area ratio; and a step of adjusting a rear area ratio, which is an area ratio between the center back area and the back armpit area.

According to the invention according to the first feature, in order to adjust the front area ratio and the rear area ratio of the pattern model based on the area ratio of the wearer's chest center and the chest side, It is possible to appropriately cause rotational movement of the fabric around the rear base point to fit the wearer's body shape. Therefore, by simply obtaining the wearer's body dimensions, it is possible to correct a paper pattern that can fit snugly to the wearer's body.

The outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the second characteristic is the invention according to the first characteristic, in which the front center area ratio is approximately equal to the area ratio of the chest center part and the chest side part. Adjust the area of the front and front armpits.

According to the invention according to the second feature, since the areas of the front center part and the front armpit parts are adjusted so that the front area ratio is approximately equal to the area ratio of the center part of the chest part and the side part of the chest part, the wearer's It is possible to perform corrections that completely take into account body balance.

The outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the third feature is the invention according to the first or second feature, wherein in the step of adjusting the front area ratio, the bust line is separated from the front center end by a predetermined distance. The step of making a cut to a point and rotating the upper front body part around a point separated by a predetermined distance, the front center line before rotation, the bust line before rotation, the anterior perpendicular line of the shoulders after rotation, and the anterior cervical gland after rotation. a step of obtaining a new front center part by the bust line before rotation, a front perpendicular line of the shoulder after rotation, a front shoulder ridge line after rotation, and a front edge line of the arm after rotation. In the step of adjusting the rear area ratio, the bust line is cut from the dorsal center to the dorsal end, and the upper rear body part is rotated around the dorsal end; line, a step of obtaining a new center of the back by the rear shoulder perpendicular line after rotation, the rear neck gland after rotation, and the back center line after rotation, the bust line before rotation, the rear edge line of the arm after rotation, after rotation obtaining a new dorsal armpit by the posterior shoulder ridge line and the rotated posterior shoulder perpendicular line.

According to the invention according to the third feature, the pattern is rotated using the bust line as a boundary, and a new pattern is created by rotating the front center line before rotation, the bust line before rotation, the anterior perpendicular line of the shoulders after rotation, and the anterior cervical gland after rotation. In addition to obtaining the center front part, the shape of the original pattern is maintained in order to obtain a new front armpit part using the bust line before rotation, the front perpendicular line of the shoulder after rotation, the front shoulder ridge line after rotation, and the front edge line of the arm after rotation. At the same time, the area ratio between the new front center part and the new front side part can be adjusted.

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a method for correcting a pattern pattern for outerwear, which can create a pattern pattern suitable for the wearer's body shape without the need for a person to take measurements or even without visiting the store.

FIG. 1 is a developed view showing the left half body part of a paper pattern pattern to which this embodiment is applied. FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing the shape of the wearer's upper left body created based on scan data. FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing a case where the area adjustment step of the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the present embodiment is applied to a non-body shape. FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing a case where the area adjustment step of the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the present embodiment is applied to a flexible body type. FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram showing a change in weight distribution when the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the present embodiment is applied to an anti-body type. FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram showing changes in weight distribution when the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the present embodiment is applied to a flexible body type. FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram showing an application example of the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the present embodiment. FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram showing a case where the area adjustment step of the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to Modification 1 is applied to an anti-body shape. FIG. 9 is a schematic diagram showing a case where the area adjustment step of the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to Modification 2 is applied to an anti-body shape.

Hereinafter, embodiments for carrying out the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. Note that this is just an example, and the technical scope of the present invention is not limited to this.

In the present invention, the central side refers to the midline side of the body when the body is viewed from the front or back, and the armpit side refers to the side of the body. Further, in the present invention, outerwear refers to all clothing worn on the upper body, including suits, jackets, coats, dress shirts, etc., regardless of whether they are for men or women.

[Paper pattern prototype]
With reference to FIG. 1, a paper pattern prototype that is a base for applying the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the present embodiment will be described. FIG. 1 shows a schematic diagram of a pattern model for the left side of the body. The paper pattern prototype for the right half of the body has a configuration in which the left and right sides are reversed, so a description thereof will be omitted. Note that the pattern pattern is the source of the patterns unique to each brand or manufacturer for suits, jackets, coats, etc. Based on the pattern pattern, patterns can be created according to the wearer's body shape as described below. Corrections are made.

The paper pattern original X to which the outerwear pattern pattern correction method of the present invention is applied has an upper front body part FB and an upper back body part BB.

<Upper front section>
In the upper front body part FB, a front shoulder base point N is formed at a position where the front neck line NL1, which is the front line around the neck, and the front shoulder ridge line HL1 intersect. The shoulder front reference point N is a point that serves as a reference point for balancing the weight of the entire jacket when the jacket is worn, and is a point that serves as a boundary between the front body part FB and the back body part BB. Further, the anterior shoulder base point N is located near the depression of the sternocleidomastoid muscle of the human body.

Armholes AH are formed in the upper part of the armpit sides of the upper front body part FB and the upper back body part BB. The armhole AH is defined by the arm leading edge line AL1 in the front body part FB and by the arm trailing edge line AL2 in the back body part BB.

The bust line BL is a line that defines the chest circumference CC, and is formed horizontally through the upper front body part FB and the upper back body part BB. Let the front center end of the bust line BL in the upper front body part FB be a point F, and the side end be a point G.

Point H on the bust line BL is a point separated by a predetermined distance from point F, which is the front end point of the bust line BL, and in this embodiment, the distance is calculated by multiplying the chest circumference CC by 6 cm by 0.37. It is a point separated by (that is, (CC+6cm) x 0.37) to the side. Point E is the point where the front center line CL, which extends vertically upward from point F, which is the front end of the bust line BL, and the front neck line NL1 intersect.

Further, a point P on the bust line BL is a point where the bust line BL intersects with the shoulder front perpendicular line PL, which is vertically suspended downward from the shoulder front base point N in the front body part FB.

Point I is a point at the rear end of the front shoulder ridge line HL1, and is a point where the front shoulder ridge line HL1 and the arm front edge line AL1 defining the arm hole AH intersect.

In this way, the fabric above the bust line BL in the front body part FB has the front shoulder base point N as the apex, the front neck line N1 which is the front line around the neck, and the front center line CL which defines the center edge of the body. , the bust line BL that defines the chest circumference, the arm front edge line AL1 that defines the front edge of the armhole, and the front shoulder ridge line HL1, that is, point E - line CL - point F - point P - point H - point G - line AL1. Defined by: - Point I - Line HL1 - Point N - Line NL1 - Point E.

At this time, the front center part FB1 of the front body part FB is defined by point N - line NL1 - point E - line CL - point F - point P - line PL - point N, and the front armpit part FB2 is defined by point N - line PL. Defined by: - point P - point H - point G - line AL1 - point I - line HL1 - point N.

<Back body part>
In the upper rear body part BB, a shoulder rear base point M is formed at a position where the rear cervical gland NL2, which is the rear line around the neck, and the rear shoulder ridge line HL2 intersect. The shoulder back reference point M is a point that serves as a reference point for balancing the weight of the entire garment when the garment is worn, and is a point that serves as a boundary between the front body portion FB and the back body portion BB.

In the upper rear body part BB, a bust line BL is formed on an extension of the bust line BL of the front body part FB, and a point K is a point corresponding to the side end of the bust line BL.

Further, a point Q on the bust line BL is a point where the bust line BL intersects the shoulder rear perpendicular line QL, which is vertically suspended downward from the shoulder rear base point M in the upper rear body part BB.

Further, the waist line WL is a line that defines the abdominal circumference WC, and a point S is a point at the center end of the back side of the waist line WL in the upper rear body part BB, that is, a point that is the boundary between the left and right sides.

Then, a line extending vertically upward from point S is defined as a temporary back center line SL1, and a point where the temporary back center line SL1 intersects with the posterior neck line NL2 is defined as a temporary back base point O1.

Here, since the actual back of the human body has a curved shape rather than a straight line, the original back base point determined in consideration of the allowance for this is set as the actual back base point O2. The original dorsal base point O2 is formed at a position where the posterior cervical gland NL2 is further extended by a predetermined distance from the false dorsal base point O1, but that distance is equal to the perpendicular line drawn from the false dorsal base point O1 to the posterior shoulder perpendicular line QL. If the length of is L1, it is defined as L1×0.1. Further, a line connecting the original main back base point O2 and the point S, which is the center end of the back side of the waist line WL, in a gentle curve is defined as the original main back center line SL2.

Further, the point where the original main back center line SL2 and the bust line BL intersect is defined as a point L. Point L is a point corresponding to the center of the dorsal side of the bust line BL.

In this way, the fabric above the bust line BL in the upper back body part BB is moved from the back shoulder base point M, which is the boundary between the front body part FB and the back body part BB, to the back neck, which is the back line around the neck. Line NL2, main back center line SL2 that defines the dorsal edge of the body, bust line BL that defines the chest circumference, arm rear edge line AL2 that defines the rear edge of the armhole, and rear shoulder ridge line HL2, that is, point O2 - Line SL2 - Point L - Point Q - Point K - Line AL2 - Point J - Line HL2 - Point M - Line NL2 - Point O1 - Point O2.

At this time, the back center part BB1 in the upper rear body part BB is defined by the point M - line NL2 - point O1 - point O2 - line SL2 - point L - point Q - line QL - point M, and the back armpit part BB2 is defined by the point Defined by M-line QL-point Q-point K-line AL2-point J-line HL2-point M.

In the manner described above, a paper pattern prototype is formed to which the paper pattern correction method according to the present embodiment is applied.

The area of each part in the prototype is determined in advance. For example, in this embodiment, the front center area A of the front center part FB1 is 21224.5 mm2, and the front side area B of the front side part FB2 is 22869.0 mm2. , the back center area C of the back center part BB1 is 23457.0 mm2, and the back armpit area D of the back armpit part BB2 is 33781.9 mm2.

[Paper pattern correction method according to this embodiment]
The outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to this embodiment will be explained using FIGS. 2 to 6.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing the shape of the wearer's upper left body created based on scan data, and FIG. 3 shows a case where the area adjustment step of the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the present embodiment is applied to an anti-body shape. FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing the case where the area adjustment step of the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the present embodiment is applied to a bent body type, and FIG. FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram illustrating a change in weight distribution when applied to a mold. FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram illustrating a change in weight distribution when the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the present embodiment is applied to a flexible body type.

<Step S1: Preparation of paper pattern pattern>
First, the paper pattern prototype created above is prepared (step S1).

The length and angle of each line of the paper pattern pattern prepared in step S1 differs depending on each manufacturer and brand, but the neck area is Defined by the front neck line NL1, which is the front line, the front center line CL, which defines the center edge of the body, the bust line BL, which defines the chest circumference, the arm front edge line AL1, which defines the front edge of the armhole, and the front shoulder ridge line HL1. The upper front body part FB, which is the upper front body part, and the back shoulder base point M, which is the boundary between the front body part and the back body part, are the apex, and the rear neck line NL1, which is the back line of the neck, and the dorsal edge of the body are defined. The upper back body part BB is defined by the main back center line SL2, the bust line BL which defines the chest circumference, the arm rear edge line AL2 which defines the rear edge of the armhole, and the rear shoulder ridge line HL2, and The waist part FB is divided into a front center part FB1 and a front armpit part FB2 with a front shoulder perpendicular line PL hanging vertically downward from the shoulder front base point N as a boundary, and the upper back body part BB is divided from the shoulder front base point N. It is divided into a back central part BB1 and a back armpit part BB2 with a rear shoulder perpendicular line QL hanging vertically downward from M as a boundary.

Note that the pattern prototype is not limited to one formed to predetermined dimensions, but one that has been adjusted according to the dimensions of each part of the wearer's body measured in step S2, which will be described later, can be used. (In that case, the order of step S1 and step S2 is reversed.)

<Step S2: Measurement of dimensions of each body part>
Next, the dimensions of each part of the wearer's body are measured (step S2).

In step S2, height, bust height, waist height, crotch height, inseam height, neck circumference, chest circumference, underbust circumference, and waist circumference are obtained using a 3D body scanner that can measure the human body in three dimensions. do. Furthermore, based on the acquired data, the neck circumference, chest circumference, underbust circumference, and waist circumference are divided horizontally, and vertically the body is divided into 12 parts according to the center line passing through the navel and the shoulder line. A schematic diagram showing the shape of the upper left half of the body obtained in this manner is shown in FIG.

Here, a point Y is defined where the frontal plane that divides the body into front and back parts intersects with the line around the neck of the body. This point Y is a point corresponding to the position of the depression on the side of the sternocleidomastoid muscle, and is a point corresponding to the anterior shoulder base point N and the shoulder posterior base point M in the above-mentioned paper pattern pattern. Then, using a line XL extending downward from point Y as a boundary, the chest above the bust line is divided into a chest center CH1 and a chest side CH2.

<Step S3: Calculation of area>
Based on the dimensions of each part measured in step S2, the area of the wearer's body corresponding to each part of the paper pattern is calculated (step S3). In particular, the area of the chest center CH1 and the area of the lateral chest CH2 described above are calculated. Thereby, the area ratio of the wearer's chest center area to the chest side area is calculated. The area ratio may be calculated separately for the left and right sides. This is because the human body is not necessarily symmetrical, so different corrections may be made for the right and left parts.

<Step S4: Adjusting the area of the paper pattern pattern>
Based on the area ratio of the wearer's chest center area and chest side area calculated in step S3, the front area ratio, which is the area ratio of the front center area FB1 and the front armpit area FB2, and the back center area BB1. and the rear side area ratio which is the area ratio of the back side part BB2.

The method of adjusting the area ratio in step S4 will be explained in detail using FIG. 3.

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of the upper front body part FB and the upper back body part BB when the area adjustment step of the paper pattern correction method according to the present embodiment is applied to an anti-body shape. An anti-body type is a body type in which the upper body is bent backwards.

As shown in FIG. 3, an incision is made from a point F, which is the front center end of the bust line BL that defines the lower end of the upper front body part FB, to a point H along the bust line BL, and using point H as a fulcrum, the upper front body part By rotating the portion FB, the size of the chest in the upper front body portion FB can be changed. Also, an incision is made from point L, which is the center end of the back side of the bust line BL in the upper back body part BB, to point K, which is the side end of the bust line BL, and with point K as a fulcrum, the upper back body part BB is cut. By rotating, the dimensions of the back of the upper back body part BB can be changed. In FIG. 3, the original shape before correction is shown by a broken line, and the shape after rotation, which is the state after correction, is shown by a solid line.

For example, in the case of a body type that leans backwards, such as the anti-body shape shown in Figure 3, if you form the fabric by enlarging and reducing it according to the original pattern, there will not be enough fabric for the chest area, resulting in a dress that makes the chest area stand out. turn into. Therefore, as shown in FIG. 3, the upper front body part FB is rotated about point H so as to open the bust line BL upward. On the other hand, the upper back body part BB is rotated about the point K so as to close the bust line downward.

<Change in area ratio of upper front body part FB>
With the rotation around point H, the front shoulder base point N moves to the front shoulder base point N', and the point I moves to point I'. Furthermore, the bust line BL itself remains unchanged, and the shoulder front perpendicular line is a perpendicular line extending vertically downward from the shoulder front base point N', so the shoulder front perpendicular line PL moves to the shoulder front perpendicular line PL'. Further, point P moves to point P' where shoulder front perpendicular line PL' and bust line BL intersect.

Furthermore, since the front center line CL, which is a perpendicular line that defines the front edge of the upper front body part FB, remains unchanged, as the pattern rotates, point F becomes point F', and point E becomes an extension of the front center line CL. Move vertically upward to point E'. As a result, the front neck line NL1 moves to the front neck line NL1', the front shoulder ridge line HL1 moves to the front shoulder ridge line HL1', and the arm front edge AL1 moves to the arm front edge AL1'.

Since the front center line CL and the bust line BL remain unchanged, the front center part FB1' after rotation correction is calculated as follows: point N' - line NL1' - point E' - line CL - point F - point P' - line PL. '--point N'.

Similarly, the front armpit portion FB2' after rotation correction is defined by point N' - line PL' - point P' - point H - point G - line AL1' - point I' - line HL1' - point N'. Ru.

In other words, a new shape after rotation correction obtained by cutting the bust line BL from the front end point F to a point H separated by a predetermined distance and rotating the upper front body part FB around the point H separated by a predetermined distance. The front center portion FB1' is obtained by the front center line CL before rotation, the bust line BL before rotation, the anterior shoulder perpendicular line PL' after rotation, and the front cervical gland NL1' after rotation.

In addition, the new front armpit part FB2' after the rotation correction is determined by the bust line BL before the rotation, the front shoulder perpendicular line PL' after the rotation, the front shoulder ridge line NL1' after the rotation, and the arm front edge line AL1' after the rotation. can get.

By correcting the rotation so that the bust line BL in the upper front body part FB opens upward in this way, the area A of the front center part FB1 before correction is expanded, and the area B of the front armpit part FB2 before correction is reduced. do. The area A of the front center portion FB1 increases because the front shoulder perpendicular line PL' moves to the armpit even though the front center line CL remains unchanged. This is also due to the fact that the number of substantially triangular parts connecting point F', point F, and point P' increases due to the opening.

In addition, the area B of the front armpit portion FB2 is reduced by correcting the rotation so that the bust line BL opens upward.The reason why the area B of the front armpit portion FB2 is reduced is because the front edge portion AL1 of the arm is close to the point H, which is the center of rotation, so the amount of line movement is small. This is due to the fact that the increase in area is small and the perpendicular line PL' in front of the shoulder has moved to the side.

In other words, by correcting the rotation so that the bust line BL opens upward, in the upper front body part FB, the area of the front center part FB1 is expanded, the area of the front armpit part FB2 is reduced, and the front center area A: The front area ratio, which is the area ratio of the front armpit area B, can be changed.

When adjusting the balance of the pattern using the pattern correction method according to the present embodiment, the new front center area A' of the front center FB1' and the new front side area FB2' of the front center FB1' after rotation correction are adjusted. From point F to point F such that the front area ratio of the front armpit area FB2' is approximately equal to the ratio of the chest center area and the chest side area calculated in step S3 above based on the wearer's measurement results. Determine the amount of movement to F'.

For example, in the pattern prototype, the area A of the front center part FB1 was 21,224.5 mm2, and the area B of the front armpit part FB2 was 22,869.0 mm2, but these were calculated based on the wearer's measurement results. When the ratio of the area of the chest center CH1 to the area of the lateral chest CH2 was CH1:CH2=1.145:1, point F was moved upward by 1 cm. As a result, the area A' of the new front center part FB1' was 24,474.1 mm2, and the area B' of the new front side part FB2' was 21,376.2 mm2. As a result, the ratio of the area A' of the new front center part FB1' to the area B' of the new front armpit part FB2' is A':B'=1.145:1, which is the area calculated based on the measurement results. Match the ratio.

<Change in area ratio of upper back body part BB>
On the other hand, in the upper back body part BB, the upper back body part BB is rotated in the opposite direction to the direction of rotation of the upper front body part FB so as to close the bust line BL downward about point K.

At this time, in FIG. 3, with the rotation around point K, the shoulder rear base point M moves to the shoulder rear base point M', the point O2 moves to the point O2', and the point J moves to the point J'. Furthermore, since the bust line BL remains unchanged and the shoulder rear perpendicular line QL is a perpendicular line extending vertically downward from the shoulder rear base point M', the shoulder rear perpendicular line QL moves to the shoulder rear perpendicular line QL'. Further, the point Q moves to a point Q' where the rear shoulder perpendicular line QL' and the bust line BL intersect.

As a result, the arm rear edge AL2 moves to the arm front edge AL2', the rear shoulder ridge line HL2 moves to the rear shoulder ridge line HL2', and the rear neck line NL2 moves to the rear neck line NL2'. Further, although the point O2 moves to the point O2', the point S at the center side end of the waist line WL remains unchanged, so the main back center line SL2 moves to the main back center line SL2'.

Since the bust line BL remains unchanged, the point where the bust line BL and the main back center line SL2' intersect horizontally from the point L to the point L'.

Since the bust line BL remains unchanged, the new center back BB1' after rotation correction is: point M' - line NL2' - point O2' - line SL2' - point L' - point Q' - line QL'. - defined by point M'.

The new back and armpit portion BB2' after rotation correction is similarly defined by point M'-line QL'-point Q'-point K-line AL2'-point J'-line HL2'-point M'. .

In other words, a new back center BB1' obtained by making a cut in the bust line BL and rotating the upper back body part BB around a point K at the center end of the back side of the bust line BL is the same as the bust before rotation. It is obtained by the line BL, the posterior shoulder perpendicular line QL' after rotation, the posterior cervical gland NL2' after rotation, and the main back center line SL2' after rotation.

Further, the new back and armpit portion BB2' after rotation is obtained by the bust line BL before rotation, the arm rear edge line AL2' after rotation, the rear shoulder ridge line HL2' after rotation, and the rear shoulder perpendicular line QL' after rotation. It will be done.

In this way, by correcting the rotation of the upper back body part BB so that the part above the bust line BL in the upper back body part BB is closed downward, the center back area C of the center back part BB1 before correction is reduced. However, the back and armpit area D of the back and armpit portion BB2 before correction is expanded. The reason why the central back area C of the central back portion BB1 is reduced is because the amount of movement of the posterior shoulder perpendicular QL' toward the center is greater than the amount of movement of the main back central line SL2'. That is, this is because the back shoulder perpendicular line QL' is a perpendicular line, while the main back center line SL2' is a gentle curve extending to the point S. This is also due to the fact that the area of the substantially triangular portion of the closed portion is reduced.

Furthermore, by performing rotational correction to close the area above the bust line BL downward, the area D of the back armpit area D of the back armpit region BB2 is expanded even though the position of the rear shoulder ridge line HL2 is lowered. This is because the amount of movement of the rear shoulder perpendicular line QL' toward the center is larger than the amount of movement of the arm rear edge line AL2.

Here, the amount of correction for the back body part BB is the same as the amount of correction for the front body part FB. That is, if the amount of upward movement from point F to point F' is 1 cm, then the amount of downward movement from point L to point L' is also 1 cm.

For example, in the pattern prototype, the area C of the center back part BB1 was 23,457.0 mm2, and the area D of the back side part BB2 was 33,781.9 mm2. Point L2 on the back body portion BB was moved 1 cm downward in response to the 1 cm upward movement of point F. As a result, the back center area C' of the new back center part BB1' was 21,528.4 mm2, and the back armpit area D' of the new back armpit part BB2' was 36,375.1 mm2.

In this way, by performing rotational correction with the bust line BL as a boundary, the front area ratio, which is the area ratio of the front center part FB1 and the front armpit part FB2, and the area ratio of the back center part BB1 and the back armpit part BB2, are determined. The rear area ratio can be adjusted.

Note that although FIG. 4 shows an example of rotational correction in the case of a bending/stretching type that is opposite to the anti-body type, the explanation will be omitted because the direction of rotation is simply opposite to the example of FIG. 3.

<Example 1>
Next, changes in the movement of the fabric due to rotation correction will be explained. As Example 1, a case of anti-body type will be explained using FIG. 5. As mentioned above, the anti-body type is a body shape in which the chest is curved, and if you create a pattern with the area ratio according to the original pattern, the chest (that is, the front center part FB1 of the upper front body part FB) will be stretched out. At the same time, there is a force that causes the fabric on the back to move downwards. When you have such a mixture of tight parts and loose parts, it is difficult to dress in a way that fits your body shape.

Therefore, as shown in FIG. 5, in the upper front body part FB, the rotation is corrected so that the part above the bust line BL is opened upward, centering on the point H, and in the upper back body part BB, the rotation is corrected in such a way that the part above the bust line BL is opened upward. The rotation is corrected so that the part above the bust line BL is closed downward.

Then, as explained in FIG. 3, in the upper front body part FB, the front center area A' of the front center part FB1' becomes larger, and the front armpit area B' of the front armpit part FB2' becomes smaller. Conversely, in the upper rear body part BB, the back center area C' of the back center part BB1' becomes smaller, and the back armpit area D' of the back armpit part BB2' becomes larger.

As a result, in the upper front body part FB, the weight of the front center part FB1' becomes heavier and the weight of the front armpit part FB2' becomes lighter, so the front center part FB1' moves downward around the front shoulder base point N'. A rotational movement occurs in which the front armpit portion FB2' attempts to rise upward (arrow AR1 in the figure).

On the other hand, in the upper rear body part BB, the weight of the back center part BB1' is lighter and the weight of the back armpit part BB2' is heavier, but the right and left halves of the body are connected by suture in the center back part BB1'. Therefore, the total weight of the right and left sides of the body is considered, rather than the weight of one side. Therefore, even if the weight of the central back part BB1' becomes lighter, the direction of the rotation itself, in which the central back part BB1' goes downward and the back armpit part BB2' tries to rise upward, remains the same as before the correction, and the rotation The force to do so will only become weaker (arrow AR2 in the figure).

In this way, in the case of the anti-body type, by opening the upper front body part FB above the bust line BL and increasing the weight of the front center part FB1, the front center part FB'1, which tends to be stiff, can be moved downward. At the same time, by closing the upper back body part BB above the bust line BL and reducing the weight of the back center part BB1, it is possible to achieve a fit so that the back center part BB1', which tends to be too much, does not fall downward. Moreover, the area R of the region surrounded by the temporary back center line SL1, the real back center line SL2, and the bust line BL increases.

In this way, center front part FB1' and front armpit part FB2' rotate around the front shoulder base point N' in an attempt to maintain balance like a Yajirobei, creating a pattern that fits the wearer's body. can be formed. Similarly, center back BB1' and back armpit BB2' rotate around the back shoulder base points M and M' in an attempt to maintain balance like a Yajirobei, resulting in a fit to the wearer's body. A pattern can be formed.

<Example 2>
Next, as Example 2, changes in the movement of the fabric in the case of a bent body type will be described using FIG. 6. Contrary to the anti-body type, a bending body type is a body type with a rounded back and a hunched back. ) is pulled up, and at the same time there is a force that tries to pull the chest fabric downwards.

Therefore, as shown in FIG. 6, the upper front body part FB is rotated around point H to close the part above the bust line BL downward, and the upper back body part BB is rotated around point K. The rotation is corrected so that the part above the bust line BL is opened upward.

Then, contrary to what was explained in FIG. 5, in the upper front body part FB, the front center area A' of the front center part FB1' becomes smaller, and the front armpit area B' of the front armpit part FB2' becomes larger. Become. Conversely, in the upper rear body part BB, the back center area C' of the back center part BB1' becomes large, and the back armpit area D' of the back armpit part BB2' becomes small.

As a result, in the upper front body part FB, the weight of the front center part FB1' becomes lighter and the weight of the front armpit part FB2' becomes heavier, so that the front center part FB1' rises upward about the front shoulder base point N'. A rotational movement occurs in which the front armpit portion FB2' tends to move downward (arrow AR3 in the figure).

On the other hand, in the upper rear body part BB, the weight of the back center part BB1' becomes heavier and the weight of the back armpit part BB2' becomes lighter, but as mentioned above, the center back part BB1' is the sum of the right and left halves of the body. Since it is considered as weight, the weight of the central back part BB1' becomes even heavier, and the direction of the rotation itself, in which the central back part BB'1 goes down and the back armpit part BB2' goes up, does not change. Moreover, the force to rotate becomes stronger (arrow AR4 in the figure).

In this way, in the case of a bent body type, by closing the upper front body part FB above the bust line BL and reducing the weight of the front center part FB1, the front center part FB1', which tends to be left over, is lifted upward. At the same time, by opening the upper back body part BB above the bust line BL and increasing the weight of the back center part BB1, the fit can be made so that the back center part BB1', which has been lifted up with tension, is pushed down. Moreover, the area R of the region surrounded by the temporary back center line SL1, the real back center line SL2, and the bust line BL decreases.

In this way, center front part FB1' and front armpit part FB2' rotate around the front shoulder base point N' in an attempt to maintain balance like a Yajirobei, creating a pattern that fits the wearer's body. can be formed. Similarly, center back BB1' and back armpit BB2' rotate around the back shoulder base points M and M' in an attempt to maintain balance like a Yajirobei, resulting in a fit to the wearer's body. A pattern can be formed.

By using the above method, regardless of the wearer's body shape, all you need is the measurement data of the wearer's body dimensions and a pattern pattern to create a jacket that fits the wearer's body shape. You can make a paper pattern.

Further, as shown in FIG. 7, the concept of the present invention can be applied to pattern templates of various shapes. Therefore, if we have measurement data of the wearer's body dimensions, we can create a jacket from company A that has a pattern prototype of pattern A, or a jacket from company B that has a pattern template of pattern B, in a shape that suits the wearer. can do.

<Modification 1>
Next, as modification example 1, an example in which the starting point of rotation correction is modified will be described using FIG. FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram of the upper front body part FB and the upper back body part BB when the area adjustment step of the paper pattern correction method according to Modification Example 1 is applied to an anti-body shape.

In Modification 1, unlike the case of Embodiment 1 shown in FIG. 3, a point located above point H is set as the center of rotation correction for upper front body portion FB. Further, regarding the upper back body portion BB, a point located above point K is set as the center of rotation correction.

By locating the starting point of rotational correction above the bust line BL, it is possible to adjust the area ratio particularly in the upper part of the chest. In this way, it is also possible to change the position of the starting point for rotational correction depending on the body shape. At that time, the front area ratio, which is the area ratio between the front center part FB1 and the front armpit part FB2, and the rear area ratio, which is the area ratio between the back center part BB1 and the back armpit part BB2, are adjusted in accordance with the embodiment. Same as 1 and 2.

<Modification 2>
Next, as a second modification, an example in which the starting point of rotation correction is modified will be described using FIG. FIG. 9 is a schematic diagram of the upper front body part FB and the upper back body part BB when the area adjustment step of the paper pattern correction method according to Modification 2 is applied to an anti-body shape.

Regarding modification example 2, for the upper front body part FB, the point H is the center of rotation correction as in the case of the first embodiment shown in FIG. 3, but for the upper back body part BB, the rotation correction is performed as shown in FIG. Unlike the case of the first embodiment, a point L located at the center of the back is set as the center of rotational correction. In that case, even if it is an anti-body type, the direction of rotation is different from Embodiment 1 shown in FIG. In other words, the upper front body part FB is adjusted to open the front center part, while the upper back body part BB is adjusted to open the back and armpit parts.

By performing such adjustment, effects similar to those shown in the first embodiment can be obtained. That is, by decreasing the area of the back central portion BB1' and increasing the area of the back armpit portion BB2', the rear side area ratio can be adjusted.

In this way, the positions of the centers of rotational correction of the upper front body part FB and the upper rear body part BB can be changed depending on the individual body shape.

The present invention can be summarized as follows.

The outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to the present invention defines the front neck line, which is the front line around the neck, and the edge on the center side of the body, with the front shoulder base point, which is the boundary between the front body part and the back body part, as the apex. The upper front body part is defined by the front center line, the bust line that defines the chest circumference, the arm front edge line that defines the front edge of the armhole, and the front shoulder ridge line, and the shoulder that is the boundary between the front body part and the back body part. With the posterior base point as the apex, the posterior jugular line is the posterior line of the neck, the center line of the back defines the dorsal edge of the body, the bust line defines the chest circumference, and the posterior edge line of the arm defines the posterior edge of the armhole. and an upper rear body part defined by the rear shoulder ridge line, and the upper front body part is divided into a front center part and a front armpit part with the front shoulder perpendicular line hanging vertically downward from the front shoulder base as a border. At the same time, a step of preparing a paper pattern pattern in which the upper back body part is divided into a center back part and a back armpit part with a back shoulder perpendicular line hanging vertically downward from the back shoulder base point as a boundary, and a step of measuring the wearer's body dimensions. Step, based on the dimensions measured in the measuring step, the chest above the bust line is divided between the center of the chest and the chest side, with a line extending downward from the intersection of the frontal plane of the body and the line around the neck as the boundary. a step of calculating the area ratio of the center of the chest and the side of the chest when divided into the front center and the side of the chest, a front area ratio that is the area ratio of the front center and the front armpit based on the area ratio; The method includes a step of adjusting a rear area ratio, which is an area ratio between the center of the back and the armpit of the back.

According to this, in order to adjust the front area ratio and back area ratio of the pattern pattern based on the area ratio of the wearer's chest center and chest side areas, the fabric is centered around the front shoulder base point and the back shoulder base point. The rotational movement of the wearer can be appropriately caused to fit the wearer's body shape. Therefore, by simply obtaining the wearer's body dimensions, it is possible to correct a paper pattern that can fit snugly to the wearer's body.

Further, the areas of the front center part and the front armpit parts are adjusted so that the front area ratio is approximately equal to the area ratio of the chest center part and the chest side parts.

According to this, the areas of the front center and front armpits are adjusted so that the front area ratio is approximately equal to the area ratio of the center of the chest and the sides of the chest, so the balance of the wearer's body shape is fully taken into account. corrections can be made.

In addition, in the step of adjusting the front area ratio, the bust line is cut to a point separated by a predetermined distance from the center edge of the front side, and the pattern is rotated around the point separated by a predetermined distance, the front center before rotation. line, the bust line before rotation, the anterior shoulder perpendicular line after rotation, and the anterior cervical gland after rotation to obtain a new front center, and the bust line before rotation, the anterior shoulder perpendicular line after rotation, and the front Obtaining a new front armpit part by the shoulder ridge line and the front edge line of the rotated arm, and in the step of adjusting the rear area ratio, cut the bust line and rotate it around a point at the lateral end. a step of obtaining a new center of the back from the bust line before rotation, the rear perpendicular line of the shoulders after rotation, the rear cervical gland after rotation, and the back center line after rotation; The method includes a step of obtaining a new dorsal armpit portion by the rear edge line of the arm, the rear shoulder ridge line after rotation, and the rear perpendicular line of the shoulder after rotation.

According to this, the pattern is rotated with the bust line as the boundary, and a new front center is obtained by the front center line before rotation, the bust line before rotation, the anterior perpendicular line of the shoulders after rotation, and the front neck gland after rotation, In order to obtain a new front armpit from the bust line before rotation, the front perpendicular line of the shoulder after rotation, the front shoulder ridge line after rotation, and the front edge line of the arm after rotation, we created a new front center while maintaining the shape of the original pattern. You can adjust the area ratio between the new front armpit area and the new front armpit area.

Although the embodiments of the present invention have been described above, the present invention is not limited to these embodiments described above. Furthermore, the effects described in the embodiments of the present invention are merely a list of the most preferable effects resulting from the present invention, and the effects of the present invention are limited to those described in the embodiments of the present invention. isn't it.

For example, the idea of forming a paper pattern in consideration of the weight distribution of the fabric of each part in the present invention can be applied not only to outer garments such as jackets, but also to pants and slacks.

Further, the above-described embodiments have been described in detail to explain the present invention in an easy-to-understand manner, and the present invention is not necessarily limited to having all the configurations described.

The jacket pattern correction method of the present invention can be applied not only to suit jackets but also to general clothing worn on the upper body, such as coats and dress shirts.

N Front shoulder base M Back shoulder base BL Bust line CL Front center line FB1 Front center FB2 Front armpit BB1 Center back BB2 Back armpit PL Shoulder front perpendicular line QL Shoulder rear perpendicular line

Claims (4)

The front neck line which is the front line of the neck, the front center line which defines the edge of the center side of the body, the bust line which defines the chest circumference, The upper front body part defined by the front edge line of the arm and the front shoulder ridge line that defines the front edge of the armhole, and the rear line around the neck, with the apex at the rear base point of the shoulder that is the boundary between the front body part and the back body part. The upper back body area is defined by the rear neck line, the back center line that defines the dorsal edge of the body, the bust line that defines the chest circumference, the arm rear edge line that defines the rear edge of the armhole, and the rear shoulder ridge line. The upper front body part is divided into a front center part and a front armpit part with a front shoulder perpendicular line hanging vertically downward from the shoulder front base point as a border, and the upper front body part is divided into a front center part and a front armpit part, and preparing a paper pattern pattern in which the back body part is divided into a back center part and a back armpit part with a back shoulder perpendicular line hanging vertically downward from the shoulder back base point;
measuring the wearer's body dimensions;
Based on the dimensions measured in the measuring step, the chest above the bust line is divided into the center of the chest and the side of the chest, with a line extending downward from the intersection of the frontal plane of the body and the line around the neck as the boundary. calculating the area ratio of the central part of the chest and the side part of the chest when divided into two parts;
Based on the area ratio, adjusting a front area ratio, which is the area ratio between the front center part and the front armpit part, and a rear area ratio, which is the area ratio between the back center part and the back armpit part;
A method for correcting a paper pattern for outerwear, comprising: Adjusting the areas of the front center part and the front armpit part so that the front area ratio is approximately equal to the area ratio of the chest center part and the chest side part.
The method for correcting a paper pattern for outerwear according to claim 1. In the step of adjusting the front area ratio,
making an incision in the bust line to a point separated by a predetermined distance from the front center end, and rotating the upper front body part about the point separated by the predetermined distance;
obtaining a new front center by the front center line before rotation, the bust line before rotation, the anterior perpendicular line of the shoulders after rotation, and the front neck gland after rotation, and
Obtaining a new front armpit part from the bust line before rotation, the front perpendicular line of the shoulder after rotation, the front shoulder ridge line after rotation, and the front edge line of the arm after rotation;
In the step of adjusting the rear side area ratio,
making an incision in the bust line from the dorsal center to the dorsal end, and rotating the upper back body part around the dorsal end;
Obtaining a new back center by the bust line before rotation, the rear perpendicular line of the shoulders after rotation, the rear cervical gland after rotation, and the back center line after rotation, and
a step of obtaining a new back and armpit part from the bust line before rotation, the rear edge line of the arm after rotation, the rear shoulder ridge line after rotation, and the rear perpendicular line of the shoulder after rotation;
The method for correcting a paper pattern for outerwear according to claim 1 or 2. An outerwear pattern pattern obtained by the outerwear pattern pattern correction method according to any one of claims 1 to 3.