JP2023043656A - cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide makeup cosmetics that provide a natural finish with a sense of transparency on the skin after applying makeup while still providing coverage.SOLUTION: Provided is a cosmetic having a color difference in which an L* value is 68 or higher, an a* value is between 7.5 and 12.0, and a b* value is -0.5 to 2.0 and having a contrast ratio of 0.38 to 0.65.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetics.

Base makeup is makeup applied to make the skin look beautiful. Base make-up cosmetics include a makeup base for improving the application of the foundation, a foundation for adjusting the skin color, and a concealer for making blemishes and dark circles inconspicuous.
In recent years, base makeup is required not only to adjust the skin color and hide skin defects such as blemishes and freckles, but also to provide a transparent and natural finish. Therefore, various studies have been made to improve components such as powders to be contained in cosmetics. For example, based on the fact that transparency increases when the amount of internally reflected light on the skin is high, it has been proposed to produce a finish with a sense of transparency by including in cosmetics a layered powder in which the refractive index of the coating component is adjusted. (Patent Document 1).

JP 2020-90443 A

When trying to obtain a transparent and natural finish, the covering power to hide stains, freckles, etc. may be insufficient.
Moreover, in the design of cosmetics for obtaining a finish with a sense of transparency, there is no example of paying attention to the color of the cosmetics.
An object of the present invention is to provide a make-up cosmetic that gives the skin after make-up a transparent and natural finish while having covering power.

The inventors of the present invention have made intensive research to solve the above problems, and found that the above problems can be solved by making the appearance color of the cosmetic material pale pink with a bluish tinge and setting the contrast ratio measured by a predetermined method to a specific range. The present invention was completed after conceiving that the problem could be solved.

That is, the present invention is as follows.
[1] having a color difference with an L* value of 68 or more, an a* value of 7.5 to 12.0, and a b* value of −0.5 to 2.0;
A cosmetic having a contrast ratio of 0.38 to 0.65.
[2] The cosmetic according to [1], containing at least three coloring materials.
[3] The cosmetic according to [1] or [2], containing at least one kind of organic pigment, dye or iron oxide.
[4] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [3], which is a base makeup cosmetic.
[5] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], which is for tone-up.

ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a makeup cosmetic that achieves both a clear and natural finish and good covering power.

Specific embodiments of the present invention are described below.
The cosmetic of the present invention has a color difference with an L* value of 68 or more, an a* value of 7.5 to 12.0, and a b* value of −0.5 to 2.0, and a contrast ratio of 0. 0.38 to 0.65.
It should be noted that the numerical range in this specification includes numerical values before and after "-".

As used herein, L* values, a* values, and b* values refer to values in the CIE 1976 L*a*b* color space. The L* value represents lightness and ranges from 0 (black) to 100 (white). The a* value and the b* value represent hue and saturation, and are measured values in the range of -100 to 100.
L* values, a* values, and b* values can usually be measured with a spectrophotometer.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, the L* value is 68 or more, preferably 68.5 or more, more preferably 70 or more. Although the upper limit of the L* value is not particularly limited, it is preferably 80 or less, more preferably 76 or less.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, the a* value is 7.5 or more, preferably 8.0 or more, more preferably 9.0 or more. Also, the a* value is 12.0 or less, preferably 11.5 or less, more preferably 10.5 or less.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, the b* value is -0.5 or more, preferably 0.0 or more, more preferably 1.0 or more. Also, the b* value is 2.0 or less, preferably 1.8 or less, and more preferably 1.7 or less.

As used herein, the term "contrast ratio" refers to the brightness ratio of each coating film when the cosmetic is coated on a black substrate and a white substrate in the same thickness. That is, it is a value obtained by dividing the brightness of the coating film on the black substrate by the brightness of the coating film on the white substrate and multiplying the result by 100. Generally, the higher this value, the higher the covering power (hiding rate).

The cosmetic of the present invention has a contrast ratio of 0.38 or more and 0.65 or less. If the contrast ratio is lower than 0.38, the entire face will have a dark finish, and if it is higher than 0.65, the makeup will appear white and the entire face will have an unnatural finish.

In order to set the L* value, a* value, b* value, and contrast ratio of the cosmetic in the above ranges, the type of cosmetic-containing ingredients, particularly powders and pigments (which may be included in powders), etc. and content may be adjusted as appropriate. Adjustment examples will be given below, but the present invention is not limited to these.

In order to make the L* value in the desired range, for example, a white pigment such as pigment titanium oxide or titanium oxide is used, and the content thereof is preferably 1 to 12% by mass, more preferably 3 to 10% by mass, more preferably 3 to 10% by mass. may be adjusted to 4 to 8% by mass.
By setting it in such a range, it becomes easy to impart a natural finish to the skin to which the cosmetic is applied. If the white pigment content is too high, the L* value may become too large. In addition, when trying to lower the L* value to a predetermined range while increasing the content of the white pigment, it becomes necessary to increase the content of the colored pigment, which may cause color unevenness when the cosmetic is applied. .

Further, in order to set the L* value to the desired range, organic pigments, dyes, colored pigments such as iron oxide are used, and the content thereof is preferably 0.001 to 1% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass. It may be adjusted to 0.5% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by mass.

Also, in order to make the L* value within the desired range, black powder is not used, or if it is used, the content is preferably 0.5% by mass or less, more preferably 0.2% by mass or less, More preferably, it may be adjusted to 0.1% by mass or less. When the colored pigment and the black powder are combined, the appearance of the cosmetic becomes dull and it may be difficult to obtain a transparent and natural finish.
Examples of black powder include black iron oxide, carbon black and titanium black.

In order to set the a* value in the desired range, organic pigments, dyes, and colored pigments such as iron oxide are used, and the content thereof is preferably 0.001 to 1.0% by mass, more preferably 0.001 to 1.0% by mass. It may be adjusted to 0.5% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 0.5% by mass.

In order to set the b* value in the desired range, organic pigments, dyes, colored pigments such as iron oxide are used, and the content thereof is preferably 0.001 to 1.0% by mass, more preferably 0.001 to 1.0% by mass. It may be adjusted to 0.5% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 0.5% by mass.

In order to bring the contrast ratio into the desired range, the total content of powder in the cosmetic is preferably 0.1 to 15% by mass, more preferably 2.0 to 10% by mass, more preferably 3 to 10% by mass. You may adjust by setting it as 8 mass %.
In addition, in order to set the contrast ratio within the desired range, the powder contained in the cosmetic may be plate-shaped, or fine particles of metal oxide (titanium oxide , iron oxide, etc.) or an extender (talc, etc.) may be used in an appropriate amount.

When the cosmetic composition of the present invention is applied to the skin, it imparts good transparency. Transparency refers to a state in which the material appears transparent without dullness. The transparency of the makeup skin makes it possible to create a tone-up effect on the skin.
In addition, usually, when trying to cover skin imperfections, it tends to result in an unnatural finish that makes one feel the presence of a cosmetic film. be able to.

The dosage form of the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a powder type (powder dosage form), an oil gel type, or an emulsion type (emulsifier type).
In addition, the cosmetics of the present invention are usually base makeup cosmetics, and include foundations, face powders, concealers, cheek colors, eye colors, etc., and are not particularly limited.

The cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a conventional method.

The raw materials used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention are described below, but are not particularly limited to these. 1) Powder The powder that can be used in the cosmetic of the present invention is a general term for organic or inorganic solids that are insoluble in cosmetic raw materials such as water, oils, surfactants, alcohols, and silicones. do.
Specific examples of powder include kaolin, talc, mica, sericite, titanium mica, laminated resin pieces (glitter), Ca/Al borosilicate, titanium sericite, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, Color pigments such as Red No. 102, Red No. 226, Yellow No. 4, aluminum lake, silica, alumina, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, methylsiloxane network polymer, crosslinked methylpolysiloxane resin, acrylic acid Examples include alkyl resins, nylon, silk, cellulose, and composite materials thereof.
The shape of the powder may be spherical, amorphous, porous, hollow, fibrous, plate-like or massive. Furthermore, the surface may be subjected to a generally known surface treatment such as silicone coating, metal soap coating, acylamino acid salt coating, and the like.
The powder may be used alone or in combination of two or more in the cosmetic.

The cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains at least three coloring materials. Here, the coloring raw materials refer to organic pigments, dyes, inorganic pigments, natural pigments, polymer powders, and the like. More preferably, the cosmetic of the present invention contains at least one kind of organic pigment, dye or iron oxide.
Examples of organic dyes include azo pigments, indigo pigments, and phthalocyanine pigments. Specific examples include Red No. 227, Red No. 226, and Red No. 201, but are not particularly limited.
Examples of dyes include azo dyes, xanthene dyes, quinoline dyes, and specific examples include Blue No. 1, konjou, and gunjou, but are not particularly limited.
Examples of inorganic pigments include, but are not limited to, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, mica titanium, and the like.
Examples of natural pigments include carotenoid pigments and flavonoid pigments derived from animals and plants or microorganisms, and specific examples include shikonin, gardenia, and cochineal pigments, but are not particularly limited.
Examples of the polymer powder include laminated polymer powder (lame) and the like, but are not particularly limited.

2) Oily component The cosmetic of the present invention may contain an oily component.
Specific examples of oily components include animal and plant oils such as macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, palm oil, and liquid lanolin. Hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane, and pristane; Liquid fatty acids such as oleic acid and isostearic acid; Liquid higher alcohols such as isostearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol; Cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, hexyldecyl isostearate, and adipine diisopropyl acid, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, glyceryl di-2-heptylundecanoate, tri-2-ethyl Glyceryl hexanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, pentane erythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl triisooctanate, etc. Synthetic ester oils of dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane and other chain polysiloxanes; octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexanesiloxane and other cyclic polysiloxanes; amino-modified polysiloxane , polyether-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, and modified polysiloxane such as fluorine-modified polysiloxane. However, those belonging to the specific group of surfactants described later shall not be treated as oily components.

In addition, solid fat and/or semi-solid fat may be used as the oily component depending on the dosage form. Here, semi-solid fat is also included in solid fat. The term “solid” refers to those that have no fluidity at 25°C, and “semi-solid” means that they are hardly deformed under stress-free conditions at 1 atm and 20°C, but some stress (approximately 10 to 100 g/cm ² ) is applied. It is said to deform when applied. Further, those having a melting point of 50° C. or higher are more preferable.
Solid fats and/or semi-solid fats include plant-derived ones such as carnauba wax, Japanese wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, shea butter, and African mango butter, and animal-derived ones such as beeswax, shellac wax, and ivory wax. Petroleum-derived waxes include refined waxes such as paraffin wax and microcrystalline wax, and mineral-derived waxes include refined waxes such as ozokerite, ceresin and montan wax.

Moreover, depending on the dosage form, it is also preferable to contain an oily gelling agent in addition to or in place of the above-mentioned solid fat or semi-solid fat.
Here, the oily gelling agent refers to a gelling agent that is compatible with oily components such as oil agents, and is not particularly limited. Examples include lauroyl glutamide and dimethicone crosspolymer.

3) Other Ingredients The cosmetic of the present invention can contain a wide range of ingredients that are commonly used in solid cosmetics.
For example, active ingredients include whitening ingredients, anti-inflammatory ingredients, plant extracts, and the like.
Examples of surfactants include anionic surfactants such as fatty acid soaps (sodium laurate, sodium palmitate, etc.), potassium lauryl sulfate, and alkyl sulfate triethanolamine ether;
cationic surfactants such as stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, laurylamine oxide;
Betaine-based surfactants (alkylbetaine, amidobetaine, sulfobetaine, etc.), imidazoline-based amphoteric surfactants (2-cocoyl-2-imidazolinium hydroxide-1-carboxyethyloxy disodium salt, etc.), acylmethyl taurine Amphoteric surfactants such as;
Sorbitan fatty acid esters (sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, etc.), glycerin fatty acids (glyceryl monostearate, etc.), propylene glycol fatty acid esters (propylene glycol monostearate, etc.), hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, glycerin alkyl ether , POE sorbitan fatty acid esters (POE sorbitan monooleate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate, etc.), POE sorbit fatty acid esters (POE-sorbit monolaurate, etc.), POE glycerin fatty acid esters (POE-glycerin monoisostea rate, etc.), POE fatty acid esters (polyethylene glycol monooleate, POE distearate, etc.), POE alkyl ethers (POE 2-octyldodecyl ether, etc.), POE alkylphenyl ethers (POE nonylphenyl ether, etc.), Pluronic (registered trademark) types, POE/POP alkyl ethers (POE/POP 2-decyltetradecyl ether, etc.), tetronics, POE castor oil/hydrogenated castor oil derivatives (POE castor oil, POE hydrogenated castor oil, etc.), sucrose fatty acid esters, nonionic surfactants such as alkyl glucoside;

Polyhydric alcohols include polyethylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, erythritol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2,4 -hexylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol and the like.

Thickeners include guar gum, quince seed, carrageenan, galactan, gum arabic, pectin, mannan, starch, xanthan gum, curdlan, methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, glycogen, Heparan sulfate, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, tragacanth gum, keratan sulfate, chondroitin, mucoitin sulfate, hydroxyethyl guar gum, carboxymethyl guar gum, dextran, kerato sulfate, locust bean gum, succinoglucan, caroninic acid, chitin, chitosan, carboxymethyl Chitin, agar, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium polyacrylate, polyethylene glycol, bentonite and the like.

Examples of UV absorbers include para-aminobenzoic acid UV absorbers, anthranilic acid UV absorbers, salicylic acid UV absorbers, cinnamic acid UV absorbers, benzophenone UV absorbers, sugar UV absorbers, 2-(2 UV absorbers such as '-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl)benzotriazole, 4-methoxy-4'-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, and the like.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the technical scope of the present invention is not limited only to the illustrated examples.

<Preparation of cosmetics>
A water-in-oil type cosmetic was prepared according to the formulation shown in Table 1. The L* value and contrast ratio were adjusted mainly with white pigments (titanium oxide and iron oxide), and the a* value and b* value were adjusted with coloring materials (Blue No. 1 and Red No. 227).
Specifically, the powder component was added to the oil component and dispersed and mixed to obtain a mixture.
The obtained cosmetic was filled in a petri dish with a thickness of 1 cm, and the color was measured using a handy spectrophotometer (manufactured by Konica Minolta, CM-600d).
Also, the contrast ratio was measured by the following procedure. Specifically, the obtained cosmetic was applied to a hiding rate test paper (described in "JIS K 5101-4 Pigment Test Method Part 4: Hiding power-Hiding rate test paper method"). It was coated with a mil thickness and allowed to stand at 25° C. and 40% humidity for 30 minutes. After that, using a spectrophotometer, measure the brightness of each coating film color on the black part and the white part of the opacity test paper, and measure the brightness of the coating film on the black part with the brightness of the coating film on the white substrate. The contrast ratio was calculated by dividing by 100 and then multiplying by 100.

In addition, the cosmetic film obtained by uniformly applying 100 mg of each cosmetic to the back of the hand was evaluated by an experienced evaluator according to the following criteria.
⊚: The skin as a whole feels bright, the overall color is uniform, and the skin has transparency and gloss.
◯: The skin as a whole feels bright, and the overall color tone is uniform, but the transparency is slightly insufficient.
Δ: The whole skin feels bright but the color is unnatural, or the whole skin becomes dark but the overall color is uniform.
x: The skin as a whole becomes darker, giving an unnatural tint. The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

Claims (5)

having a color difference with an L* value of 68 or more, an a* value of 7.5 to 12.0, and a b* value of −0.5 to 2.0;
A cosmetic having a contrast ratio of 0.38 to 0.65. 2. The cosmetic according to claim 1, containing at least three kinds of coloring raw materials. 3. Cosmetics according to claim 1 or 2, containing at least one organic pigment, dye or iron oxide. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is a base makeup cosmetic. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which is for tone-up.