JP2022145007A - Multilayer structure spun yarn, manufacturing method thereof, fabric and clothing - Google Patents

Multilayer structure spun yarn, manufacturing method thereof, fabric and clothing Download PDF

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JP2022145007A
JP2022145007A JP2021046247A JP2021046247A JP2022145007A JP 2022145007 A JP2022145007 A JP 2022145007A JP 2021046247 A JP2021046247 A JP 2021046247A JP 2021046247 A JP2021046247 A JP 2021046247A JP 2022145007 A JP2022145007 A JP 2022145007A
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fiber
fibers
spun yarn
yarn
animal hair
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智則 安田
Tomonori Yasuda
孝之 岡部
Takayuki Okabe
英明 茂上
Hideaki Mogami
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Nippon Keori KK
Japan Wool Textile Co Ltd
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Japan Wool Textile Co Ltd
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Abstract

To provide a multilayer structure spun yarn enabling wear resistance, weft elongation and anti-pilling property of fabric to be improved by optimizing a yarn structure and animal hair fiber mixing rate, a manufacturing method thereof, fabric and clothing.SOLUTION: A multilayer structure spun yarn 20 consists of a core component fiber 21 and a sheath component fiber 24, and the sheath component fiber 24 contains an inner layer fiber 22 and a surface layer fiber 23. The inner layer fiber 22 of the sheath component fiber 24 is not twisted. The surface fiber 23 is wound in one direction to bundle entire fibers. The core component fiber 21 is a stretchable multifilament yarn. The sheath component fiber 24 is a mixed spun fiber containing animal hair fibers and short fibers other than animal hair fiber. When the multilayer structure spun yarn 20 is 100% by mass, mixing rate of the animal hair fiber is 5 to 50% by mass.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 2

Description

本発明は、芯成分繊維がフィラメント糸で鞘成分繊維が獣毛繊維を含む混紡短繊維の多層構造紡績糸、その製造方法、生地及び衣類に関する。 TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a multi-layered spun yarn of blended short fibers containing filament yarn as a core component fiber and animal hair fiber as a sheath component fiber, a method for producing the same, fabrics and clothes.

芯成分繊維がフィラメント糸で鞘成分繊維が短繊維の長短複合紡績糸は、フィラメント糸と短繊維の持つそれぞれの長所を生かせることから、従来から様々な提案がされている。特許文献1には、リング紡績法により、マルチフィラメント糸を電気開繊して短繊維と撚糸し、均一混繊構造の長短複合紡績糸を作る方法が提案されている。特許文献2には、リング紡績法により、芯部にコンジュゲート複合繊維糸からなるフィラメント糸を配置し、鞘部に短繊維を配置した長短複合紡績糸が提案されている。本発明者らは、リング紡績法により、芯部にマルチフィラメント仮撚糸を配置し、鞘部に短繊維束を配置した長短複合紡績糸が提案している(特許文献3)。特許文献4には結束紡績法を用いた長短複合紡績糸が提案されている。 Various proposals have been conventionally made for long and short conjugate spun yarns in which the core component fiber is the filament yarn and the sheath component fiber is the short fiber, since the respective advantages of the filament yarn and the short fiber can be utilized. Patent Document 1 proposes a method of making a long and short conjugate spun yarn having a uniform mixed fiber structure by electrically opening a multifilament yarn and twisting it with short fibers by a ring spinning method. Patent Document 2 proposes a long and short conjugate spun yarn in which a filament yarn made of a conjugate conjugate fiber yarn is arranged in the core portion and short fibers are arranged in the sheath portion by a ring spinning method. The present inventors have proposed a long and short conjugate spun yarn in which a multifilament false twisted yarn is arranged in the core portion and a short fiber bundle is arranged in the sheath portion by a ring spinning method (Patent Document 3). Patent document 4 proposes a long and short composite spun yarn using a bundle spinning method.

特開2012-102445号公報JP 2012-102445 A 特開2015-045112号公報JP 2015-045112 A 特許第6696004号公報Japanese Patent No. 6696004 特開平11-217741号公報JP-A-11-217741

しかし、前記従来技術は、糸構造及び獣毛繊維の混率に問題があり、生地の摩擦強力、緯伸び及び抗ピリング性に問題があった。 However, the above-mentioned prior art has problems in the yarn structure and the mixture ratio of animal hair fibers, and in the frictional strength, weft elongation and anti-pilling properties of the fabric.

本発明は、前記従来の問題を解決するため、糸構造及び獣毛繊維の混率の最適化を図り、生地の摩擦強力、緯伸び及び抗ピリング性を向上した多層構造紡績糸、その製造方法、生地及び衣服を提供する。 In order to solve the above conventional problems, the present invention provides a multi-layered spun yarn with improved frictional strength, weft elongation and pilling resistance of the fabric by optimizing the yarn structure and the blend ratio of animal hair fibers, and a method for producing the same. Providing fabrics and clothing.

本発明の多層構造紡績糸は、芯成分繊維と鞘成分繊維で構成され、前記鞘成分繊維は内層繊維と表層繊維を含む多層構造紡績糸であって、前記鞘成分繊維の内層繊維が無撚り状であり、表層繊維が一方向に巻き付いて全体を束ねており、前記芯成分繊維は伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸であり、前記鞘成分繊維は獣毛繊維と獣毛繊維以外の短繊維を含む混紡繊維であり、前記多層構造紡績糸を100質量%としたとき、獣毛繊維の混率は5~50質量%であることを特徴とする。 The multilayer structure spun yarn of the present invention is composed of a core component fiber and a sheath component fiber, the sheath component fiber is a multilayer structure spun yarn containing an inner layer fiber and a surface layer fiber, and the inner layer fiber of the sheath component fiber is untwisted. The outer layer fibers are wrapped in one direction to bundle the whole, the core component fiber is an elastic multifilament yarn, and the sheath component fiber is a blend containing animal hair fibers and short fibers other than animal hair fibers. It is a fiber, and the mixing ratio of animal hair fibers is 5 to 50% by mass when the multi-layered structure spun yarn is 100% by mass.

本発明の多層構造紡績糸の製造方法は、前記の多層構造紡績糸の製造方法であって、鞘成分繊維となる獣毛繊維と獣毛繊維以外の短繊維を含む混紡繊維のスライバーをドラフトゾーンに供給してドラフトし、前記ドラフトゾーンのフロントローラの上流側に芯成分繊維となる伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸を供給し、前記スライバーと合体させて繊維束とし、前記繊維束を前記フロントローラの排出部から離れて配置されているスピンドルに供給し、旋回流によって仮撚りを掛けた後に巻き取ることを特徴とする。 The method for producing a multi-layered spun yarn of the present invention is the above-described method for producing a multi-layered spun yarn, wherein a sliver of a blended fiber containing animal hair fibers as sheath component fibers and short fibers other than animal hair fibers is placed in a draft zone. and drafting, supplying a stretchable multifilament yarn as a core component fiber to the upstream side of the front roller in the draft zone, combining it with the sliver to form a fiber bundle, and discharging the fiber bundle from the front roller It is characterized in that the yarn is supplied to a spindle arranged away from the part, false-twisted by a swirling flow, and then wound up.

本発明の生地は、前記の多層構造紡績糸を使用したことを特徴とする。また、本発明の衣類は、前記の多層構造紡績糸又は生地を含むことを特徴とする。 The fabric of the present invention is characterized by using the multi-layered spun yarn described above. Further, the clothing of the present invention is characterized by including the multi-layered spun yarn or fabric described above.

本発明の多層構造紡績糸は、糸構造及び獣毛繊維の混率の最適化を図り、生地の摩擦強力、緯伸び及び抗ピリング性を向上した多層構造紡績糸、その製造方法、生地及び衣服を提供できる。これらの特性は、ビジネス用スーツ、ビジネス用ユニホーム、学生服などに好適である。本発明の多層構造紡績糸の製造方法は、結束紡績法であるため、リング紡績法に比べて約10~20倍の高速で紡績でき、効率よく合理的に、コストも安く製造できる。また、毛羽数が少なく均整な糸であり、熱水収縮率も高い多層構造紡績糸を提供する The multi-layered spun yarn of the present invention is a multi-layered spun yarn with improved frictional strength, weft elongation and anti-pilling properties of the fabric by optimizing the yarn structure and the blend ratio of animal hair fibers, its production method, fabric and clothing. can provide. These characteristics are suitable for business suits, business uniforms, school uniforms, and the like. Since the method for producing the multi-layered spun yarn of the present invention is a tie spinning method, it can be spun at a speed about 10 to 20 times higher than that of the ring spinning method, and can be produced efficiently and rationally at a low cost. In addition, the present invention provides a multi-layered spun yarn that has a small number of fluffs, is well-proportioned, and has a high hot water shrinkage rate.

図1は本発明の一実施形態における芯鞘構造紡績糸を製造するための結束紡績装置の要部を示す模式的斜視図である。FIG. 1 is a schematic perspective view showing the main part of a binding spinning device for producing core-sheath structure spun yarn in one embodiment of the present invention. 図2は本発明の一実施形態における芯鞘構造紡績糸の模式的斜視図である。FIG. 2 is a schematic perspective view of a core-sheath structure spun yarn in one embodiment of the present invention. 図3は本発明の別の実施形態における芯鞘構造紡績糸の模式的斜視図である。FIG. 3 is a schematic perspective view of a core-sheath structure spun yarn in another embodiment of the present invention. 図4は本発明の一実施形態における芯鞘構造紡績糸の側面写真(倍率200倍)である。FIG. 4 is a side view photograph (magnification: 200) of the core-sheath structure spun yarn in one embodiment of the present invention. 図5は本発明の別の実施形態における芯鞘構造紡績糸の側面写真(倍率200倍)である。FIG. 5 is a side view photograph (magnification: 200) of a core-sheath structure spun yarn in another embodiment of the present invention. 図6は本発明の一実施形態における織物の織組織図である。FIG. 6 is a weave diagram of a woven fabric in one embodiment of the present invention.

本発明の多層構造紡績糸は、芯成分繊維と鞘成分繊維で構成され、前記鞘成分繊維は内層繊維と表層繊維を含む3層構造になっている。この糸構造により、糸構造は強固となり、生地の摩擦強力及び抗ピリング性を向上できる。またこの糸構造により、後の工程で多層構造紡績糸又は生地を熱水収縮させても、芯成分繊維の伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸が外に飛び出さず、スナールになりにくい。 The multi-layered spun yarn of the present invention is composed of a core component fiber and a sheath component fiber, and the sheath component fiber has a three-layer structure including an inner layer fiber and a surface layer fiber. With this yarn structure, the yarn structure becomes strong, and the frictional strength and anti-pilling properties of the fabric can be improved. In addition, due to this yarn structure, even if the multi-layered spun yarn or fabric is shrunk in hot water in a later step, the stretchable multifilament yarn of the core component fiber does not jump out and is less prone to snarling.

芯成分繊維は伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸である。伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸は、コンジュゲートマルチフィラメント糸又は仮撚マルチフィラメント糸が好ましい。これにより、生地の緯伸びを向上できる。コンジュゲートマルチフィラメント糸は、一例として、ポリエチレンテレフタレート(PET)とポリトリメチレンテレフタレート(PTT)がサイドバイサイドで複合紡糸されたポリエステルコンジュゲートフィラメント糸が好ましい。このような伸縮糸は例えば、商品名“ライクラT400ファイバー”(東レ・オペロンテックス社販売)がある。別の伸縮糸としては、極限粘度の異なる2成分のポリエチレンテレフタレートのコンジュゲート糸、PETとポリブチレンテレフタレート(PBT)とのコンジュゲート糸、PTTとPBTとのコンジュゲート糸なども使用できる。このようなポリエステルコンジュゲートフィラメント糸は、PETマルチフィラメント糸と同様に耐塩素性も耐光性も高い。コンジュゲートマルチフィラメント糸は染色温度程度の熱水処理により捲縮が発現し、伸縮性(ストレッチ性)が発現する。このことから潜在捲縮糸ともいわれている。 The core component fibers are elastic multifilament yarns. The stretchable multifilament yarns are preferably conjugated multifilament yarns or false twisted multifilament yarns. Thereby, the weft elongation of the fabric can be improved. The conjugate multifilament yarn is, for example, preferably a polyester conjugate filament yarn in which polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) are conjugate-spun side-by-side. Such a stretchable yarn is, for example, the product name "Lycra T400 Fiber" (sold by Toray Operontex Co.). Other stretch yarns that can be used include two-component polyethylene terephthalate conjugate yarns with different intrinsic viscosities, PET and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) conjugate yarns, and PTT and PBT conjugate yarns. Such polyester conjugate filament yarns are highly chlorine and lightfast as are PET multifilament yarns. The conjugated multifilament yarn develops crimps by hot water treatment at about the dyeing temperature, and develops elasticity (stretchability). For this reason, it is also called a latent crimped yarn.

仮撚マルチフィラメント糸は、ポリエステル仮撚マルチフィラメント糸、ナイロン仮撚マルチフィラメント糸、セルロースアセテート仮撚マルチフィラメント糸、キュプラ仮撚マルチフィラメント糸、シルク仮撚マルチフィラメント糸などが好ましい。これらの糸は獣毛繊維と組み合わせるとより高付加価値の交撚糸となる。なかでもポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメント仮撚糸は強度も高く腰もあることから好ましい。 The false-twisted multifilament yarn is preferably a polyester false-twisted multifilament yarn, a nylon false-twisted multifilament yarn, a cellulose acetate false-twisted multifilament yarn, a cupra false-twisted multifilament yarn, a silk false-twisted multifilament yarn, or the like. When these yarns are combined with animal hair fibers, they become high-value-added cross-twisted yarns. Among them, polyethylene terephthalate multifilament false-twisted yarn is preferable because of its high strength and stiffness.

鞘成分繊維は獣毛繊維と獣毛繊維以外の短繊維を含む混紡繊維で構成される。鞘成分繊維は、内層に位置する短繊維が無撚り状であり、表層に位置する短繊維が一方向に実撚り状に巻き付いて全体を束ねている。内層の無撚り状短繊維と、表層に位置する実撚り状繊維は、別の繊維であってもよいし、同一繊維がマイグレーションにより入れ替わっていてもよい。 Sheath component fibers are composed of blended fibers containing animal hair fibers and short fibers other than animal hair fibers. In the sheath component fiber, the short fibers located in the inner layer are untwisted, and the short fibers located in the surface layer are wound in one direction in a real twist to bind the whole. The non-twisted short fibers in the inner layer and the real-twisted fibers in the surface layer may be different fibers, or the same fibers may be replaced by migration.

獣毛繊維は、羊の毛であるウール(メリノ・ウールの場合、繊維長30~150mm)、山羊の毛であるモヘヤ(繊維長100~300mm)、カシミヤ(繊維長40~90mm)ラクダの毛であるキャメル(繊維長50~70mm)、アルパカ(繊維長100~200mm)、ビキューナ(繊維長20~70mm)、ウサギの毛であるアンゴララビット(繊維長100~130mm)等を使用できる。このうち好ましいのは最も汎用性があるウールである。ウールと他の獣毛繊維とを混紡してもよい。獣毛繊維の平均繊維長は20~35mmにカットするのが好ましい。多層構造紡績糸を100質量%としたとき、獣毛繊維の混率は5~50質量%である。好ましい獣毛繊維の混率は7~45質量%であり、より好ましくは10~40質量%である。これにより、風合いが良く、温かい織物、編み物が得られる。 Animal hair fibers include sheep's wool (fiber length 30-150 mm in the case of merino wool), goat hair mohair (fiber length 100-300 mm), cashmere (fiber length 40-90 mm), and camel hair. Camel (fiber length 50-70 mm), Alpaca (fiber length 100-200 mm), Vicuna (fiber length 20-70 mm), Angora rabbit (fiber length 100-130 mm), etc. can be used. Among these, wool is preferred because it is the most versatile. Wool and other animal hair fibers may be blended. The average fiber length of the animal hair fibers is preferably cut to 20 to 35 mm. When the multi-layer structure spun yarn is taken as 100% by mass, the mixing ratio of animal hair fibers is 5 to 50% by mass. The blending ratio of animal hair fibers is preferably 7 to 45% by mass, more preferably 10 to 40% by mass. As a result, woven fabrics and knitted fabrics with good texture and warmth can be obtained.

鞘成分繊維は、獣毛繊維と獣毛繊維以外の短繊維を混紡する。獣毛繊維以外の短繊維は、合成繊維、再生繊維、天然繊維のいずれかでもよい。好ましくはポリエステル短繊維、ナイロン短繊維、セルロースアセテート短繊維、キュプラ短繊維、シルク短繊維、コットン繊維、麻繊維、レーヨン繊維などである。この中でもポリエステル短繊維は強度高く腰もあることから好ましい。獣毛繊維以外の短繊維の平均繊維長は20~51mmにカットするのが好ましい。 Sheath component fibers are made by blending animal hair fibers and short fibers other than animal hair fibers. Short fibers other than animal hair fibers may be synthetic fibers, regenerated fibers, or natural fibers. Polyester staple fibers, nylon staple fibers, cellulose acetate staple fibers, cupra staple fibers, silk staple fibers, cotton fibers, hemp fibers, rayon fibers and the like are preferred. Among these fibers, polyester staple fibers are preferred because of their high strength and stiffness. Short fibers other than animal hair fibers are preferably cut to have an average fiber length of 20 to 51 mm.

多層構造紡績糸を100質量%としたとき、芯成分繊維の伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸は10~40質量%であり、鞘成分繊維は60~90質量%が好ましい。より好ましくは、芯成分繊維の伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸は15~35質量%、鞘成分繊維は65~85質量%であり、さらに好ましくは、芯成分繊維の伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸は20~30質量%、鞘成分繊維は70~80質量%である。 When the multilayer structure spun yarn is 100% by mass, the elastic multifilament yarn of the core component fiber is preferably 10 to 40% by mass, and the sheath component fiber is preferably 60 to 90% by mass. More preferably, the elastic multifilament yarn of the core component fiber is 15 to 35% by mass, and the sheath component fiber is 65 to 85% by mass, and even more preferably, the elastic multifilament yarn of the core component fiber is 20 to 30% by mass. %, and the sheath component fiber is 70-80% by mass.

本発明の多層構造紡績糸は、生産性に優れることから結束紡績糸が好ましい。リング紡績糸に比べて結束紡績糸は、約10~20倍生産性に優れる。とくに旋回流ノズルが1個の結束紡績装置により得られた結束紡績糸は毛羽も少なく、糸構造は強固となり、生地の摩擦強力及び抗ピリング性を向上できる。なお、結束紡績は、ボルテックス(VORTEX)紡績ともいう。 The multi-layered spun yarn of the present invention is preferably a bundled spun yarn because of its excellent productivity. Tie spun yarn is about 10 to 20 times more productive than ring spun yarn. In particular, the spun bundled yarn obtained by a binding spinning device having one swirl flow nozzle has less fuzz, a strong yarn structure, and improved frictional strength and anti-pilling properties of the fabric. The bundle spinning is also called VORTEX spinning.

本発明の多層構造紡績糸は、メートル番手(単糸)で、20~52番(繊度:500~192decitex)の範囲が好ましい。この範囲であれば、ビジネス用スーツ、ビジネス用ユニホーム、学生服などに好適である。多層構造紡績糸は2本撚り合わされた双糸としてもよい。前記双糸のメートル番手は10~26番(繊度:1000~384decitex)が好ましい。双糸にすると、生地の表面がきれいになるうえ、織物の強度も高くなる。 The multi-layer structure spun yarn of the present invention preferably has a metric count (single yarn) in the range of 20 to 52 (fineness: 500 to 192 decitex). This range is suitable for business suits, business uniforms, school uniforms, and the like. The multilayer structure spun yarn may be a two-ply yarn in which two yarns are twisted together. The metric count of the two-ply yarn is preferably 10 to 26 (fineness: 1000 to 384 decitex). Two-ply yarn not only makes the surface of the fabric clean, but also increases the strength of the fabric.

本発明の織物又は編み物の単位面積あたりの質量(目付)は50~400g/mの範囲が好ましい。前記範囲であれば、さらに軽くて着心地の良い衣服とすることができる。さらに好ましくは100~350g/mの範囲、とくに好ましくは150~300g/mの範囲である。織物組織は、平織り、綾織り、朱子織、その他の変化織など、どのような組織であってもよい。編み物は、横編み、丸編み、経編などであり、編み物組織はどのような組織であってもよい。 The weight per unit area (basis weight) of the woven fabric or knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably in the range of 50 to 400 g/m 2 . If it is the said range, it can be set as lighter and more comfortable clothes. It is more preferably in the range of 100-350 g/m 2 , particularly preferably in the range of 150-300 g/m 2 . The woven fabric may be any weave such as plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and other variation weaves. Knitting includes weft knitting, circular knitting, warp knitting, and the like, and any knitting structure may be used.

次に本発明の芯鞘構造糸を製造するための装置と方法について図面を用いて説明する。以下の図面において、同一符号は同一物を示す。図1は本発明の一実施例における結束紡績装置1の要部を示す斜視図である。
(1)ドラフト工程
結束紡績装置1のドラフトゾーン6は、一対のフロントローラ2,2’と、エプロンを有する一対のセカンドローラ3と、一対のサードローラ4と、一対のバックローラ5で構成されている。鞘成分繊維となる獣毛繊維と獣毛繊維鋳型の短繊維を混紡したスライバー7は、スライバーガイド8を通過させてバックローラ5から供給され、ドラフトゾーン6でドラフトされる。
(2)芯成分繊維と被覆成分繊維との合体工程
ドラフトゾーン6のフロントローラ2,2’手前(上流側)に、芯成分繊維となる伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸9を供給し、スライバー7がドラフトされた繊維束と合体させる。
(3)紡績糸形成工程
フロントローラ2,2’の排出部から離れて配置されているスピンドル10に、合体させた芯成分繊維糸と鞘成分繊維の繊維束を供給し、旋回流によって仮撚りを掛けて多層構造紡績糸11とする。
(4)巻き取り工程
得られた多層構造紡績糸11は、スラブキャッチャー12を通過し、フリクションローラ13で引き取られ、巻取り部17の巻き取りドラム14により駆動されクレードルアーム15に支持されたパッケージ16に巻き取られる。
本発明の製造方法に使用する紡績機は、例えば村田機械社製、商品名”MURATA VORTEX SPINNER”として販売されている。特徴的なことは、糸速度が300~450m/分であり、リング紡績機の約10~20倍生産速度が速いことである。
Next, the apparatus and method for producing the core-sheath structure yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. In the following drawings, the same symbols indicate the same items. FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing the essential parts of a binding spinning device 1 according to one embodiment of the present invention.
(1) Draft process The draft zone 6 of the binding spinning device 1 is composed of a pair of front rollers 2, 2', a pair of second rollers 3 having an apron, a pair of third rollers 4, and a pair of back rollers 5. ing. A sliver 7 obtained by blending animal hair fibers to be a sheath component fiber and short fibers of an animal hair fiber template is passed through a sliver guide 8, supplied from a back roller 5, and drafted in a draft zone 6. - 特許庁
(2) Combining Core Component Fiber and Coating Component Fiber In front of the front rollers 2 and 2' (upstream side) of the draft zone 6, an elastic multifilament yarn 9 as a core component fiber is supplied, and the sliver 7 is drafted. Combine with the fiber bundles that have been formed.
(3) Spun Yarn Forming Process A fiber bundle of the combined core component fiber yarn and sheath component fiber is supplied to the spindle 10 arranged away from the discharge part of the front rollers 2, 2', and false twisted by a swirling flow. to obtain a multi-layered structure spun yarn 11.
(4) Winding process The obtained multi-layered structure spun yarn 11 passes through the slab catcher 12, is taken up by the friction roller 13, is driven by the winding drum 14 of the winding section 17, and is supported by the cradle arm 15 as a package. 16 is wound up.
The spinning machine used in the manufacturing method of the present invention is sold under the trade name "MURATA VORTEX SPINNER" manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd., for example. Characteristically, the yarn speed is 300-450 m/min, which is about 10-20 times faster than the ring spinning machine.

本発明の一例の多層構造紡績糸(結束紡績糸)20を図2に示す。この例は、多層構造紡績糸を100質量%としたとき、ウールの混率を15質量%とした例である。芯成分繊維21が伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸であり、鞘成分繊維24はウールとポリエステル(PET)短繊維の混紡繊維である。ウールは内層繊維22に多く存在し、無撚り状態である。PET短繊維は表層の巻き付き繊維23に多く存在している。表層の巻き付き繊維23は一方向に撚りが掛けられた実撚り状であり、全体を束ねている。これにより、毛羽やたるみは少なく、摩耗を受けても繊維が脱落せず、強固な糸状態を保つ。前記において一方向とは、S撚りの巻き付け繊維又はZ撚りの巻き付け繊維のことをいい、撚り角が同一ということではない。S撚りの巻き付け繊維又はZ撚りの巻き付け繊維は、結束紡績機のスピナーの圧空旋回流の方向によって決まる。この多層構造紡績糸(結束紡績糸)20は、芯成分繊維21と、鞘成分繊維24のうちの無撚りの内層繊維22と、表層の巻き付き繊維23の3層構造になっている。この糸構造により、糸強度は高いものとなる。また、内層のウールは表層のPET短繊維に被覆保護されていることにより、ウールの傷みは防止される。 FIG. 2 shows a multi-layer structure spun yarn (bundle spun yarn) 20 as an example of the present invention. This example is an example in which the blend ratio of wool is 15% by mass when the multi-layer structure spun yarn is 100% by mass. The core component fiber 21 is an elastic multifilament yarn, and the sheath component fiber 24 is a blended fiber of wool and polyester (PET) short fibers. A large amount of wool exists in the inner layer fibers 22 and is in a non-twisted state. Many PET short fibers are present in the wound fibers 23 of the surface layer. The wound fibers 23 of the surface layer are in a real-twisted shape, twisted in one direction, and bundle the whole. As a result, there is little fluff or slack, and even if it is worn, the fibers do not come off and maintain a strong yarn state. In the above description, "one direction" refers to S-twisted fibers or Z-twisted fibers, and does not mean that the twist angles are the same. S-twist wound fibers or Z-twist wound fibers are determined by the direction of the pneumatic swirl flow of the spinner of the tie spinner. This multi-layer structure spun yarn (bundle spun yarn) 20 has a three-layer structure of a core component fiber 21, an untwisted inner layer fiber 22 of sheath component fibers 24, and a wound fiber 23 of a surface layer. Due to this yarn structure, the yarn strength is high. In addition, since the wool in the inner layer is covered and protected by the short PET fibers in the surface layer, the wool is prevented from being damaged.

本発明の別の例の多層構造紡績糸(結束紡績糸)25を図3に示す。この例は、多層構造紡績糸25を100質量%としたとき、ウールの混率を35質量%とした例である。図2と異なるのは、鞘成分繊維28の内層繊維26も表層の巻き付き繊維27も、ウールとPET短繊維の混紡繊維の状態で内層繊維22と表層の巻き付き繊維23となっていることである。26bは内層のウール,26aは内層のPET短繊維、27bは表層のウール、27aは表層のPET短繊維である。この多層構造紡績糸も3層構造になっていることから、糸強度は高いものとなる。また、表層の巻き付き繊維は、ウールとPET短繊維がしっかりと絡んでいるため、ウールの傷みは防止される。 FIG. 3 shows a multi-layer structure spun yarn (bundle spun yarn) 25 of another example of the present invention. In this example, when the multi-layer structure spun yarn 25 is 100% by mass, the blend ratio of wool is 35% by mass. The difference from FIG. 2 is that both the inner layer fiber 26 and the surface layer wound fiber 27 of the sheath component fiber 28 are the inner layer fiber 22 and the surface layer wound fiber 23 in the state of a blended fiber of wool and PET short fibers. . 26b is inner layer wool, 26a is inner layer PET short fibers, 27b is surface layer wool, and 27a is surface layer PET short fibers. Since this multi-layer structure spun yarn also has a three-layer structure, the yarn strength is high. In addition, since the wound fibers in the surface layer are tightly entwined with the wool and the PET short fibers, the wool is prevented from being damaged.

図4は本発明の一実施形態における芯鞘構造紡績糸の側面写真(倍率200倍)であり、多層構造紡績糸を100質量%としたとき、ウールの混率を15質量%とした側面写真である。
図5は本発明の別の実施形態における芯鞘構造紡績糸の側面写真(倍率200倍)であり、多層構造紡績糸を100質量%としたとき、ウールの混率を35質量%とした例である。
図2~図5から総じていえることは、表層の巻き付き繊維が、芯成分繊維及び鞘成分の内層繊維を強固にラッピングしており、これが生地の摩擦強力、緯伸び及び抗ピリング性の向上に寄与しているといえる。
FIG. 4 is a side view photograph (magnification of 200 times) of the core-sheath structure spun yarn in one embodiment of the present invention, in which the blend ratio of wool is 15% by mass when the multi-layered structure spun yarn is 100% by mass. be.
FIG. 5 is a side view photograph (magnification: 200) of the core-sheath structure spun yarn in another embodiment of the present invention. be.
It can be generally said from FIGS. 2 to 5 that the wound fibers in the surface layer firmly wrap the core component fibers and the inner layer fibers of the sheath component, which contributes to the improvement of the friction strength, weft elongation and anti-pilling properties of the fabric. It can be said that

図6は本発明の一実施形態における織物組織図であり、バラシア(barathea)組織である。経糸は1種類の糸を使用し、緯糸は2種類の糸を交互に打ち込んだ組織である。変化マット織物ともいわれる。 FIG. 6 is a fabric weave diagram in one embodiment of the present invention, which is a barathea weave. One kind of yarn is used for the warp, and two kinds of yarn are alternately woven for the weft. It is also called changing mat fabric.

以下、実施例を用いてさらに具体的に説明する。本発明は下記の実施例に限定されるものではない。
本発明の実施例、比較例における測定方法はJIS又は業界規格にしたがって測定した。
A more specific description will be given below using examples. The invention is not limited to the following examples.
The measurement methods in the examples and comparative examples of the present invention were measured according to JIS or industry standards.

(実施例1~2)
1.使用繊維
(1)芯成分繊維
芯成分繊維として、ポリエチレンテレフタレート(PET)とポリトリメチレンテレフタレート(PTT)が50:50の割合でサイドバイサイド複合紡糸されたポリエステルコンジュゲートフィラメント糸、商品名“ライクラT400ファイバー”(東レ・オペロンテックス社販売)、トータル繊度83decitex、構成本数34本、黒原着品を使用した。
(2)鞘成分繊維
下記の2種類の繊維を混紡した。
(i)ウール
平均直径22μm、平均繊維長80mmのメリノ種ウールの繊維束(20g/m)を平均繊維長28mmにスクウエアカットした。
(ii)PET短繊維
繊度1.56decitexのポリエチレンテレフタレート(PET)、スクエアカット(平均繊維長38mm)、黒原着品を使用した。
以上のウールとPET短繊維を表1に示す所定の割合にて均一混紡した。
2.多層構造紡績糸の作製
図1に示す方法によりポリエステルコンジュゲートフィラメント糸を芯成分繊維とし、ウールとPET短繊維を混紡した繊維束(スライバー)を鞘成分繊維とし、図1に示す村田機械社製、商品名”No.870,MURATA VORTEX SPINNER”を使用し、300m/分の速度で多層構造結束紡績糸を製造した。各繊維の割合は表1に示すとおりである。得られた糸のメートル番手は36番(278decitex)であった。この糸は単糸使いの場合は1/36と表示する。
(Examples 1 and 2)
1. Fibers used (1) Core component fiber As the core component fiber, polyester conjugate filament yarn made by side-by-side composite spinning of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) at a ratio of 50:50, trade name “Lycra T400 fiber”. ” (sold by Toray Opelontex Co., Ltd.), total fineness 83 decitex, composition number 34, black dope-dyed product was used.
(2) Sheath Component Fibers The following two types of fibers were blended.
(i) Wool A fiber bundle (20 g/m) of merino wool having an average diameter of 22 μm and an average fiber length of 80 mm was square-cut to an average fiber length of 28 mm.
(ii) PET staple fibers Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) with a fineness of 1.56 decitex, square cut (average fiber length: 38 mm), black dope-dyed product was used.
The above wool and PET short fibers were uniformly blended at the predetermined ratio shown in Table 1.
2. Preparation of multi-layered spun yarn By the method shown in Fig. 1, a polyester conjugate filament yarn is used as a core component fiber, and a fiber bundle (sliver) obtained by blending wool and PET staple fibers is used as a sheath component fiber. , trade name "No. 870, MURATA VORTEX SPINNER" was used to produce a multi-layered structure bundled spun yarn at a speed of 300 m/min. The ratio of each fiber is as shown in Table 1. The resulting yarn had a metric count of 36 (278 decitex). This thread is indicated as 1/36 when single thread is used.

(実施例3)
多層構造結束紡績糸のメートル番手を40番(250decitex)とした以外は実施例2と同様に製造した。この糸は単糸使いの場合は1/40と表示する。
(Example 3)
It was produced in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the metric count of the multi-layer structure ties was changed to No. 40 (250 decitex). This thread is displayed as 1/40 when using a single thread.

(比較例1)
メートル番手60番(167decitex)のリング紡績糸と、PETとPTTが50:50の割合でサイドバイサイド複合紡糸されたポリエステルコンジュゲートフィラメント糸、商品名“ライクラT400ファイバー”(東レ・オペロンテックス社販売)、トータル繊度83decitex,構成本数34本、黒原着品を撚糸機で撚り合わせ、撚糸交撚糸とした。各繊維の割合は表1に示すとおりである。この糸は約40番(250decitex)であった。
(Comparative example 1)
Ring spun yarn of metric count 60 (167decitex) and polyester conjugate filament yarn obtained by side-by-side composite spinning of PET and PTT at a ratio of 50:50, trade name “Lycra T400 Fiber” (sold by Toray Operontex Co., Ltd.), A total fineness of 83 decitex, a composition number of 34, and a black dope-dyed product were twisted together by a twisting machine to obtain a twisted and twisted yarn. The ratio of each fiber is as shown in Table 1. The yarn was approximately #40 (250 decitex).

以上の条件と結果は表1にまとめて示す。表1において、熱水処理後の収縮率(%)は、下記の式によって求める。熱水処理は100℃の熱水に20分間浸漬して行った。
熱水収縮率(%)=[(L1-L2)/L1]×100
L1:熱水処理前の糸長
L2:熱水処理後の糸長
The above conditions and results are summarized in Table 1. In Table 1, the shrinkage ratio (%) after hot water treatment is determined by the following formula. The hot water treatment was performed by immersing in hot water at 100° C. for 20 minutes.
Hot water shrinkage (%) = [(L1-L2) / L1] × 100
L1: Yarn length before hot water treatment L2: Yarn length after hot water treatment

Figure 2022145007000002
Figure 2022145007000002

表1から明らかなとおり、実施例1~3の多層構造紡績糸(結束紡績糸)は比較例1の撚糸交撚糸に比べて1mm以上の毛羽数が少なく均整な糸であり、熱水収縮率も高かった。 As is clear from Table 1, the multi-layered spun yarns (bundle spun yarns) of Examples 1 to 3 are uniform yarns with a smaller number of fluffs of 1 mm or more than the twisted yarn of Comparative Example 1, and the hot water shrinkage rate. was also expensive.

(実施例4)
次の糸を使用して織物を製造した。
(1)緯糸1
実施例3の多層構造紡績糸を用いた。
(2)緯糸2
実施例1の鞘成分繊維に使用したウールとPET短繊維の混紡スライバーを使用し、実施例1と同じ紡績装置で結束紡績糸を作成した。この結束紡績糸は、ウール30質量%、PET短繊維70質量%であり、メートル番手は40番(250decitex)であった。
(3)経糸
前記緯糸2と同じ質量比のメートル番手80番(125decitex)のリング紡績糸双糸を用いた。
(4)織物の作製
経糸1と、緯糸1、緯糸2を使用し、レピア織機を使用して図6に示すバラシア組織(barathea)の織物を製織した。得られた織物は、ウールを染色するため酸性染料を使用し、室温(25℃)から100℃まで75分かけて昇温し、100℃の熱水で45分間浸漬して染色し、その後洗浄した。
(Example 4)
Fabrics were made using the following yarns.
(1) Weft 1
The multilayer structure spun yarn of Example 3 was used.
(2) Weft 2
Using the same spinning apparatus as in Example 1, the same spinning apparatus as in Example 1 was used to prepare a bundle spun yarn. This spun yarn bundle contained 30% by mass of wool, 70% by mass of PET short fibers, and had a metric count of 40 (250decitex).
(3) Warp A ring-spun two-ply yarn with a metric count of 80 (125 decitex) having the same mass ratio as the weft 2 was used.
(4) Production of Woven Fabric Warp 1, weft 1 and weft 2 were used to weave a barathea fabric shown in FIG. 6 using a rapier loom. The resulting fabric was dyed by using an acid dye to dye wool, heated from room temperature (25°C) to 100°C over 75 minutes, immersed in hot water at 100°C for 45 minutes, and then washed. did.

(比較例2)
緯糸1として、比較例1の撚糸交撚糸を使用した。これ以外は実施例4と同様とした。
以上条件と結果は表2にまとめて示す。
(Comparative example 2)
As the weft 1, the twisted cross-twisted yarn of Comparative Example 1 was used. Other than this, it was the same as Example 4.
The above conditions and results are summarized in Table 2.

Figure 2022145007000003
Figure 2022145007000003

表2から明らかなとおり、実施例4の織物生地は摩擦強力、緯伸び及び抗ピリング性が高かった。 As is clear from Table 2, the woven fabric of Example 4 had high frictional strength, weft elongation, and anti-pilling properties.

本発明の多層構造紡績糸から作られる生地は、ビジネス用スーツ、ビジネス用ユニホーム、学生服などに好適である。その他、靴下、手袋、ホールガーメントなどにも好適である。 Fabrics made from the multi-layered spun yarn of the present invention are suitable for business suits, business uniforms, school uniforms, and the like. In addition, it is suitable for socks, gloves, whole garments, and the like.

1 結束紡績装置
2,2’ フロントローラ
3 セカンドローラ
4 サードローラ
5 バックローラ
6 ドラフトゾーン
7 スライバー
8 スライバーガイド
9 伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸
10 スピンドル
11 多層構造紡績糸
12 スラブキャッチャー
13 フリクションローラ
14 巻き取りドラム
15 クレードルアーム
16 パッケージ
20,25 多層構造紡績糸
21 芯成分繊維
22,26 内層繊維
23,27 巻き付き繊維
24,28 鞘成分繊維
26b 内層のウール
26a 内層のPET短繊維
27b 表層のウール
27a 表層のPET短繊維
1 binding spinning device 2, 2' front roller 3 second roller 4 third roller 5 back roller 6 draft zone 7 sliver 8 sliver guide 9 elastic multifilament yarn 10 spindle 11 multi-layer structure spun yarn 12 slab catcher 13 friction roller 14 winding drum 15 Cradle arm 16 Packages 20, 25 Multi-layer structure spun yarn 21 Core component fibers 22, 26 Inner layer fibers 23, 27 Wrapped fibers 24, 28 Sheath component fibers 26b Inner layer wool 26a Inner layer PET short fibers 27b Surface layer wool 27a Surface layer PET short fiber

Claims (8)

芯成分繊維と鞘成分繊維で構成され、前記鞘成分繊維は内層繊維と表層繊維を含む多層構造紡績糸であって、
前記鞘成分繊維の内層繊維が無撚り状であり、表層繊維が一方向に巻き付いて全体を束ねており、
前記芯成分繊維は伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸であり、
前記鞘成分繊維は獣毛繊維と獣毛繊維以外の短繊維を含む混紡繊維であり、
前記多層構造紡績糸を100質量%としたとき、獣毛繊維の混率は5~50質量%であることを特徴とする多層構造紡績糸。
A multi-layered spun yarn composed of a core component fiber and a sheath component fiber, the sheath component fiber including an inner layer fiber and a surface layer fiber,
The inner layer fibers of the sheath component fibers are untwisted, and the surface layer fibers are wound in one direction to bundle the whole,
The core component fiber is an elastic multifilament yarn,
The sheath component fiber is a blended fiber containing animal hair fibers and short fibers other than animal hair fibers,
A multi-layered spun yarn, wherein the blend ratio of animal hair fibers is 5 to 50% by mass when the multi-layered spun yarn is 100% by mass.
前記伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸は、コンジュゲートマルチフィラメント糸及び仮撚マルチフィラメント糸である請求項1に記載の多層構造紡績糸。 The multi-layered spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the stretchable multifilament yarn is a conjugate multifilament yarn and a false twisted multifilament yarn. 前記鞘成分繊維の獣毛繊維以外の短繊維は、ポリエステル短繊維である請求項1又は2に記載の多層構造紡績糸。 The multilayer structure spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the short fibers other than the animal hair fibers of the sheath component fibers are polyester staple fibers. 前記多層構造紡績糸を100質量%としたとき、芯成分繊維は10~40質量%であり、鞘成分繊維は60~90質量%である請求項1~3のいずれか1項に記載の多層構造紡績糸。 The multilayer according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the core component fiber is 10 to 40 mass% and the sheath component fiber is 60 to 90 mass% when the multilayer structure spun yarn is 100 mass%. Structural spun yarn. 前記多層構造紡績糸の単糸は、メートル番手で20~52番(繊度:500~192decitex)の範囲である請求項1~4のいずれか1項に記載の多層構造紡績糸。 The multi-layered spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the single yarn of the multi-layered spun yarn has a metric count of 20 to 52 (fineness: 500 to 192 decitex). 請求項1~5のいずれか1項に記載の多層構造紡績糸の製造方法であって、
鞘成分繊維となる獣毛繊維と獣毛繊維以外の短繊維を含む混紡繊維のスライバーをドラフトゾーンに供給してドラフトし、
前記ドラフトゾーンのフロントローラの上流側に芯成分繊維となる伸縮性マルチフィラメント糸を供給し、前記スライバーと合体させて繊維束とし、
前記繊維束を前記フロントローラの排出部から離れて配置されているスピンドルに供給し、旋回流によって仮撚りを掛けた後に巻き取ることを特徴とする多層構造紡績糸の製造方法。
A method for producing a multilayer structure spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5,
A sliver of blended fibers containing animal hair fibers as sheath component fibers and short fibers other than animal hair fibers is supplied to the draft zone and drafted,
supplying a stretchable multifilament yarn as a core component fiber to the upstream side of the front roller of the draft zone and combining it with the sliver to form a fiber bundle;
A method for producing a multi-layered spun yarn, wherein the fiber bundle is supplied to a spindle arranged away from the discharge portion of the front roller, false-twisted by a swirling flow, and then wound.
請求項1~5のいずれか1項に記載の多層構造紡績糸を含む生地。 A fabric comprising the multi-layered spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5. 請求項1~5のいずれか1項に記載の多層構造紡績糸を含む衣類又は請求項7に記載の生地を含む衣類。 A garment comprising the multi-layered spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5 or a garment comprising the fabric according to claim 7.
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JPH11217741A (en) * 1998-01-27 1999-08-10 Niigata Prefecture Composite fasciated spun yarn and its production and woven or knitted fabric
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN116100890A (en) * 2022-12-23 2023-05-12 武汉纺织大学 Liquid fluid flexible linear material, and composite yarn forming method and application thereof

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