JP2021155386A - Oily cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide an oily cosmetic having thick and rich touch feeling and good sense of use without stickiness without causing perspiration and separation of oil with time.SOLUTION: There is provided an oily cosmetic comprising the following components (A), (B) and (C): (A) a component represented by the following formula ((R2-HNOC)2-R1-(CONH-R3)2 [R1 is a group obtained by removing 4 hydrogen atoms from a structural formula of benzene and R2 and R3 are different from each other and are an aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 6 or more carbon atom], (B) polyurethane-79 and (C) one or two or more selected from oily components which are in a liquid or pasty state at 25°C.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

The present invention relates to an oil-based cosmetic, and more specifically, to an oil-based cosmetic having a thick and rich feel without sweating or degreasing over time, and having a good feeling of use without stickiness.

Various dosage forms have been developed for cosmetics. Among them, oil-based cosmetics have low water evaporation from the skin, have an excellent emollient effect, and have good gloss and adhesiveness. Generally, it is widely applied to cosmetics such as liquid dosage forms (oil cleansing, skin care products, etc.), gel dosage forms (skin care products, lip gloss, etc.), and solid dosage forms (lipstick, balm, etc.). ..

Oil-based cosmetics have various dosage forms, but these days, the emollient effect and moisturizing properties peculiar to oil-based cosmetics require a thick and rich feeling of use, and they are widely used in lip products and skin care products applied to the lips and skin. It has been applied. At that time, it is common to adjust the viscosity of the preparation and impart more viscosity to adjust the feeling of use.

However, the viscous oily cosmetics may cause a phenomenon called sweating / oil removal in which liquid oil exudes into the surface of the oily cosmetics in the form of water droplets over time, which significantly increases the commercial value of the cosmetics. There was a loss. Many studies have been made to solve this problem.

Patent Document 1 contains polyethylene terephthalate powder having an average particle size of 1 to 30 μm and dextrin fatty acid ester, which is excellent in sustaining moisturizing sensation and non-stickiness, and further, oil floating and cracks on the surface. Oily solid cosmetics without cracks have been reported. However, as described in the document, it is described that a certain amount or more of a gelling agent is required to suppress sweating, and that sweating occurs at a high temperature with a small amount of compounding. Although sweating may be improved by adding a large amount of gelling agent as described in Patent Document 1, it becomes very hard as a dosage form, and the feel is poor in malleability and richness in use. It ends up. In addition, it is a limited technique for solid cosmetics, and does not improve the problem of oily cosmetics having a wide range of viscosities.

Further, in Patent Document 2, by containing dextrin fatty acid ester and liquid paraffin or squalane and triacylglycerol, the appearance is excellent in transparency and the feeling of use is good over time while having a good moisturizing feeling. There are reports of stable oily solid cosmetics. However, there is a problem that hydrocarbons are essential components in the oils to be blended, the amount of triacylglycerol and gelling agent to be blended is severely restricted, and the degree of freedom in prescribing is low in adjusting the feeling of use of oil-based cosmetics. rice field. Further, Patent Document 3 discloses an oil-based solid cosmetic having excellent moisturizing properties by combining dextrin and a specific dextrin fatty acid ester. However, this is an example in which the effect on oil removal and sweating is not sufficient and only the suppression of dextrin aggregation has been solved. It cannot be said that the problem has been solved.
From the above, the feel and stability of oil-based cosmetics have been studied for some time, but while suppressing oil release and sweating, they have a thick and rich feel, are not sticky, and fit well on the skin. Providing a composition having a good feeling of use still remains an issue, and it is an urgent task to solve this issue in order to meet recent needs.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2012-72104 JP-A-2017-114806 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2017-186311

The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned prior art, and has no sweating or oil release over time, has a thick and rich feel, is not sticky, fits well on the skin, and has a good usability. The subject was to provide oily cosmetics to have.

In order to achieve the above object, as a result of diligent research by the present inventor, an oily cosmetic in which specific components (A) and (B) having the property of thickening and gelling liquid oil are combined with the component (C). Satisfied the above-mentioned problems, and completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention
An oil-based cosmetic containing the following ingredients (A) to (C).
(A) Ingredients represented by the following formula (1),
(R _2- HNOC) _2- R _1- (CONH-R ₃ ) ₂ (1)
In the formula (1), R1 is a group obtained by removing four hydrogen atoms from the structural formula of benzene, and R2 and R3 are different from each other and are aliphatic hydrocarbon groups having 6 or more carbon atoms.
(B) Polyurethane-79
(C) An oily cosmetic containing one or more selected from liquid and pasty oily components at 25 ° C.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention can provide an oil-based cosmetic that does not sweat or degrease over time, has a thick and rich feel, is not sticky, fits well on the skin, and has a good feeling of use.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail. Unless otherwise specified, when the blending amount of the component is indicated by "%" below, it means mass%.

The oily cosmetic in the present invention is a cosmetic having a continuous phase of a liquid, semi-solid or solid oil agent or an oily component which is an oil-soluble compound, and is a plant extract or a plant extract in an amount of 5% by mass or less based on the total amount of the cosmetic. Can contain water and alcohol. Further, the oily composition may be a solid or a fluid.

As described in the formula (1), the component (A) used in the present invention has four amide bonds in the molecule of the monomer, and is hydrophobic aliphatic hydrocarbon through the amide bond. It has a hydrogen group (R2, R3). At the amide bond site, the monomers of the component (A) have the property of self-associating with each other by hydrogen bonds to form a fibrous self-assembling body. Further, since the hydrophobic groups R2 and R3 have an affinity for the oily component, the composition containing the liquid oil or the paste-like oily component is thickened and gelled by being compatible with the liquid oil. do.

As a commercially available specific example of the component (A), bisethylhexyl bisoleyl pyromelitamide of "Celmoris (registered trademark) SB03" manufactured by Daicel Corporation is preferable.

The blending amount of the component (A) is not particularly limited, but it is desirable that the pure content in the oil-based cosmetics is 0.01% to 3.0%. It is more preferably 0.05 to 2.0%, still more preferably 0.1 to 1.0%. In this range, when combined with the components (B) and (C), sweating and oil release suppression over time are very good, and the thickness of the spread, the non-stickiness, and the familiarity with the skin are excellent.

The component (B) polyurethane-79 used in the present invention is a co-butanediol obtained by the reaction of hydrogenated polybutanediol, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol and 1,4-butanediol. Both ends of the polymer are blocked with stearyl alcohol. In component (B), the stearyl alcohol moiety has an affinity for the oily component, and the association with hydrogen bonds between molecules causes thickening in a wide range of liquid oils.

As a commercially available specific example of the component (B), "OILKEMIA (registered trademark) 5S Polymer" manufactured by LUBRIZOL is preferable.

The blending amount of the component (B) is not particularly limited, but it is desirable that the pure content in the oil-based cosmetics is 0.01% to 15.0%. More preferably, it is 0.05 to 10.0%, still more preferably 0.1 to 7.5%. In this range, when combined with the components (A) and (C), sweating and oil release suppression over time are very good, and the thickness of the spread, the non-stickiness, and the familiarity with the skin are excellent.

The component (C) liquid and paste-like oily component at 25 ° C. used in the present invention is an oily component having fluidity at 25 ° C. It contains both pasty substances and oily components that have high viscosity and fluidity.

The component (C) is not particularly limited, but the liquid oil component may be any as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, for example, liquid paraffin, squalane, α-olefin oligomer, hydrocarbon polyisobutene and the like. Hydrocarbon oils, octyldodecyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, glyceryl tri (capril capric acid), diisostearyl malate, trimethylrol propane triisostearate, pentaerythrit tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl triisostearate- Ester oils such as cetyl 2,2-ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylen, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, meadowfoam oil, jojoba seed oil, rice bran oil, grape seed oil, olive oil, Argania spinosa kernel Examples include vegetable oils such as oil.
As a paste, trilanolin fatty acid glyceryl, soft lanolin fatty acid, vaseline, branched or hydroxylated fatty acid cholesteryl, dipentaerytrit fatty acid ester (dipentaerytrit hexaoxystearate, etc.), isostearic acid hardened castor oil, monohydroxystearic acid Hardened castor oil, tri (capril, caprin, myristin, stearic acid) glyceride, myristyl lactate, dimer dilinoleic acid hydrogenated castor oil, dimer dilinoleic acid (phytorteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), phytosteryl oleate, Di (phytosteryl, behenyl, octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate and the like can be mentioned. These can be contained in one kind or two or more kinds. Among them, hydrocarbon oils and ester oils have improved stability, and petrolatum is preferable because it gives a thick and rich feeling of use.

There is no particular limitation on the blending amount of the component (C).

In addition to the above-mentioned essential ingredients, the composition of the present invention may contain, if necessary, ingredients generally used in cosmetics and the like.
For example, solid oils, pearling agents, extender pigments, coloring pigments, moisturizers, fragrances, bactericides, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters, chelating agents, ultraviolet absorbers other than component (C), ultraviolet scattering agents, etc. Additives such as anti-inflammatory agents, crude drug extracts and vitamins can be added in a timely manner. The blending ratio when these components are contained can be appropriately selected according to the type and purpose, and one type may be used alone or two or more types may be used in combination as appropriate.

Examples of the oil-based cosmetics of the present invention include solids, sticks, gels, liquids, pastes and the like.
Further, the oily cosmetic of the present invention can be suitably used for cosmetics such as skin care oil, body oil, oil cleansing, liquid rouge and liquid eye shadow.

The present invention will be further described below with reference to examples. It should be noted that these examples do not limit the present invention in any way.

(Production method)
The components (A), (B) and (C) were heated and dissolved at 110 ° C. and mixed uniformly. Next, the mixture was uniformly dispersed with a disper in a heated state, defoamed, and then cooled to obtain an oily cosmetic.

<Evaluation method of gelation>
After preparing each sample, the sample was allowed to stand in an environment of 20 ° C. for 20 hours to measure the viscosity. Viscosity measurement was performed using a B-type viscometer: VISCOMETER TVB-10M (manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.).
Measurement is performed for 60 seconds with TM1 and TM2 and TM3 and TM4 rotors at 3 to 6 rpm.
Classify by the ratio of increase in viscosity after gelation based on the viscosity when no gelling agent is added.
<Evaluation criteria>
⊚: Viscosity of 100 times or more ○: Viscosity of 10 times or more and less than 100 times ×: Viscosity of less than 10 times

<Stability>
The prepared preparation was allowed to stand at 40 ° C. for 2 weeks, and the state after 2 weeks was observed. The sweating and degreasing of oil was visually confirmed.
⊚: No change of state of sweating or oil removal occurred.
◯: There is a slight change in state of either sweating or oil removal, but there is no problem in product quality when using it.
X: Either sweating or oil release is conspicuous, which is not preferable in terms of product quality.

<Sensory characterization test>
Usability was evaluated using a sensory characterization test. Regarding the ease of use and feel (thickness of spread, stickiness, familiarity with the skin) when applying the evaluation sample to the skin
Ten expert judges give evaluation points according to the following evaluation criteria, and according to the average score, 4.0 or more is ◎, 3.0 or more and less than 4.0 is ○, 2.0 or more and less than 3.0 is △ , Less than 2.0 was defined as x.

(Evaluation criteria)
<Thickness of extension>
5: I feel very thick.
4: Feel the thickness.
3: I can't say either.
2: I don't feel the thickness.
1: I don't feel the thickness very much.
<Stickiness>
5: Very few.
4: There are few.
3: I can't say either.
2: Many.
1: Very many.
<Familiar with the skin>
5: Very preferable.
4: Preferred.
3: I can't say either.
2: Not preferable.
1: Very unfavorable.

＊１：セルモリス（登録商標：ダイセル社製） ＳＢ０３
＊２：ＯＩＬＫＥＭＩＡ（登録商標：ＬＵＢＲＩＺＯＬ社製） ５Ｓ Ｐｏｌｙｍｅｒ

* 1: Cell Morris (registered trademark: manufactured by Daicel) SB03
* 2: OILKEMIA (registered trademark: manufactured by LUBRIZOL) 5S Polymer

＊３：ＧＰ−１（味の素社製）
＊４：ＥＢ−２１（味の素社製）

* 3: GP-1 (manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.)
* 4: EB-21 (manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.)

Example 1, Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 5, and Comparative Example 9 are the results of changing the gelling agent using the ester oil polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate as the liquid oil. In Comparative Example 1, gelation did not occur, and in Comparative Example 5 and Comparative Example 9, gelation occurred, but the stability was poor and oil release was confirmed on the surface of the oily cosmetic. On the other hand, in Example 1, by combining the component (A) and the component (B), the stability is good even when polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, which could not be achieved by a single gelling agent, is used, and the gel is further improved. The possibility was high, and the result of the sensory evaluation was also good.
In Examples 2 and 3, Comparative Examples 2, 3, 6 and 7 used hydrocarbon oil as the liquid oil. Although gelation occurs with the component (A) alone, the sensory evaluation is very poor and there is a problem in usability. The component (B) alone could not be gelled. However, by combining the components (A) and (B), a gel having good stability and excellent usability can be prepared.
In Example 4 and Comparative Examples 4 and 8, the ester oil isostearyl isostearate was blended as a liquid oil. In Comparative Example 4, even if the gel was formed, the gel did not easily disintegrate during application, resulting in poor skin compatibility. In Comparative Example 8, although gelation occurred, sweating was confirmed on the surface, causing a problem in stability. On the other hand, in Example 4, by mixing the component (A) and the component (B), the stability and gelation are also good, and while having a thick and rich feel, it fits well on the skin and is sticky. There was no good feeling of use, and good results were obtained in the sensory characteristic evaluation.
From the above, it was found that by combining the component (A) and the component (B), various liquid oils can be gelled, and samples with concerns about stability, gelation, and usability can be significantly improved by themselves. rice field.
Comparing Example 9 with Comparative Examples 10 and 11, an amino acid-based gelling agent was used as the gelling agent in Comparative Example. The result was inferior to that of the examples in terms of sensory properties. In addition, sweating and oil release were confirmed on the surface of the oily cosmetic at 40 ° C. for 2 weeks. From the above, in order to achieve this task, a combination of the component (A) and the component (B) was necessary.
Moreover, not only the stability but also the result of the sensory evaluation was better in the formulation to which Vaseline was added in Example 11 than in Example 9.

<Prescription example>
The compositions of each formulation were prepared by a conventional method. In each of the formulations, the effect of the present invention was shown without any problem.

<Oil gel>
Ingredient name Blended amount (%)
1. Ethylhexyl palmitate: 2.5
2. Squalene: 20
3. Diisostearyl malate: 5
4. Triethylhexanoin: 28.9
5. Dextrin palmitate: 2.5
6. Hydrogenated polyisobutene: Appropriate amount 7. Bisethylhexyl bisoleyl pyromelitamid: 0.5
8. Polyurethane-79: 0.01
9. Silica: 0.5
10. Vaseline: 5
11. Hydrophobicized silica: 0.5
12. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate: 0.05
13. Tocopherol: 0.05
14. Tocopheryl retinoate: 0.01
15. Astaxanthin: 0.001
Total: 100

<Oil gel>
Ingredient name Blended amount (%)
1. Isotridecyl isononanoate: 10
2. Triethylhexanoin: 10
3. Diisostearyl malate: 10
4. Mica: 5
5. Dextrin palmitate: 5
6. Hydrogenated polyisobutene: Appropriate amount 7. Bisethylhexyl bisoleyl pyromelitamid: 0.01
8. Polyurethane-79: 15
9. Silica: 0.5
10. Vaseline: 5
11. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate: 0.05
12. Tocopherol: 0.05
13. Talc: 5
14. Disteardimonium hectorite: 0.2
15. (Vinyl Dimethicone /
Methicon silsesquioxane) Crosspolymer: 2
16. Retinol palmitate: 0.01
Total: 100

<Lip gloss>
Ingredient name Blended amount (%)
1. 1. Polyglyceryl triisostearate-2: 15
2. Tetra (hydroxysteasan / isostearic acid)
Dipentaerythrityl: 6
3. 3. Hydrogenated polydecene: Appropriate amount 4. Diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone: 5
5. Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate: 20
6. Hydrogenated polybutene: 7.4
7. Isostearyl isostearate: 11
8. (VP / Eikosen) Copolymer: 2.5
9. Bisethylhexyl bisoleyl pyromelitamid: 1
10. Polyurethane-79: 2.5
11. Silicic acid (Na / Mg): 0.5
12. Red No. 202: 1.5
13. Yellow No. 4: 0.8
14. Titanium oxide: 2.8
Total: 100

Claims (3)

The following components (A) to (C)
(A) Represented by the following formula (1),
(R _2- HNOC) _2- R _1- (CONH-R ₃ ) ₂ (1)
In the formula (1), R1 is a group obtained by removing four hydrogen atoms from the structural formula of benzene, and R2 and R3 are different from each other and are aliphatic hydrocarbon groups having 6 or more carbon atoms.
(B) Polyurethane-79
(C) An oily cosmetic containing one or more selected from liquid and pasty oily components at 25 ° C. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (C) contains one or more selected from hydrocarbon oils and ester oils. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (C) contains petrolatum.