JP2021139067A - Knitted fabric for student uniform and student uniform - Google Patents

Knitted fabric for student uniform and student uniform Download PDF

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JP2021139067A
JP2021139067A JP2020038226A JP2020038226A JP2021139067A JP 2021139067 A JP2021139067 A JP 2021139067A JP 2020038226 A JP2020038226 A JP 2020038226A JP 2020038226 A JP2020038226 A JP 2020038226A JP 2021139067 A JP2021139067 A JP 2021139067A
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knitted fabric
dtex
synthetic fiber
less
fiber multifilament
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JP7466336B2 (en
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葵 花村
Aoi Hanamura
葵 花村
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Asahi Kasei Advance Corp
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Asahi Kasei Advance Corp
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Abstract

To provide a knitted fabric for a student uniform, which has tension and stiffness having wear resistance, water repellency and water absorption excellent in washing durability, and to provide a manufacturing method of the knitted fabric, and the student uniform using the knitted fabric on a face fabric.SOLUTION: A knitted fabric with loop density 35-120 course/2.54 cm, 35-70 wales/2.54 cm is obtained by knitting synthetic fiber multifilament A with a total fineness of more than 75 dtex and 220 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less at a mixing ratio of 25 to 98 wt.% and synthetic fiber multifilament B with a total fineness of 1/3 to 2/3 of the total fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament A and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less at the mixing ratio of more than 10 wt.% and 75 wt.% or less. The synthetic fiber multifilament A exists on the outermost surface of the knitted fabric. An average height Rc of a contour curve element is 120 or more and 300 or less. The number of frictions is 30,000 or more. The knitted fabric for a student uniform, which is subjected to water repellent treatment or water absorption treatment, a manufacturing method of the knitted fabric and the student uniform using the method are provided.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

本発明は、学生服用編地、その製法、及び該編地を表地に用いた学生服に関する。より詳しくは、本発明は、摩耗耐久性を持ちながらハリコシ、洗濯耐久に優れた撥水性、吸水性を有する学生服用編地、その製法、及び該編地を表地に用いた学生服に関する。 The present invention relates to a school uniform knitted fabric, a method for producing the same, and a school uniform using the knitted fabric as an outer material. More specifically, the present invention relates to a school uniform knitted fabric having abrasion durability, elasticity, excellent washing durability, water repellency, and water absorption, a method for producing the same, and a school uniform using the knitted fabric as an outer material.

従来、学生服の素材としては、ハリコシがあって仕立て栄えがよい織物が主流であった。例えば、以下の特許文献1には、目付が大きく強度を保ちながら、速乾性に優れる織物が提案されているが、該織物はストレッチ性に乏しく、しわになりやすいという欠点がある。他方、近年、快適性やイージーケアの観点から、ストレッチ性に優れ、しわになりにくい編地が着目されている。 Conventionally, the mainstream material for school uniforms has been woven fabrics that are elastic and have a good tailoring appearance. For example, the following Patent Document 1 proposes a woven fabric having a large basis weight and maintaining strength and excellent quick-drying property, but the woven fabric has a drawback that it has poor stretchability and is prone to wrinkles. On the other hand, in recent years, from the viewpoint of comfort and easy care, attention has been paid to knitted fabrics having excellent stretchability and less likely to wrinkle.

しかしながら、編地はストレッチ性に優れるものの、擦れによる耐摩耗性や鋭いものに引っかかってループが引き出されてしまうスナッグ現象という欠点がある。この欠点を解消すべく、例えば、以下の特許文献2には、編地の一部に撚り糸を用いて、編み込む糸長比を調整することによって抗スナッグ性を発揮する学生服用編物が提案されている。しかしながら、提案された織物では、スナッグを抑制するために、編地表面は平滑なものに限られてしまい意匠性に欠けるという問題がある。また、合成繊維を使用した学生服は家庭用洗濯機で洗濯できるイージーケア性も求められるが、例えば、染色後加工により施される撥水加工剤は洗濯で脱落しやすく、その耐久性を持たせる方法については提案されていない。 However, although the knitted fabric has excellent stretchability, it has drawbacks such as abrasion resistance due to rubbing and a snag phenomenon in which a loop is pulled out by being caught by a sharp object. In order to eliminate this drawback, for example, Patent Document 2 below proposes a knitted fabric for students that exhibits anti-snagging properties by using a twisted yarn as a part of the knitted fabric and adjusting the yarn length ratio to be knitted. There is. However, in the proposed woven fabric, there is a problem that the surface of the knitted fabric is limited to a smooth one in order to suppress snag, and the design is lacking. In addition, school clothes made of synthetic fibers are also required to have easy care properties that can be washed in a household washing machine. No suggestions have been made on how to make it.

特許第5917800号公報Japanese Patent No. 5917800 特許第6191067号公報Japanese Patent No. 6191667

以上の従来技術に鑑み、本発明が解決しようとする課題は、摩耗耐久性を持ちながらハリコシ、洗濯耐久に優れた撥水性、吸水性を有する学生服用編地、その製法、及び該編地を表地に用いた学生服を提供することである。 In view of the above prior art, the problem to be solved by the present invention is to obtain a school uniform knitted fabric having elasticity, excellent washing durability, water repellency and water absorption while having abrasion durability, a manufacturing method thereof, and the knitted fabric. It is to provide the school uniform used for the outer material.

本発明者らは、上記課題を解決すべく鋭意検討し実験を重ねた結果、一定の太さを有する糸のループを編地表面(おもてめん)で凸になるように編成することで、弱糸が外力から保護されて耐摩耗性が向上し、また、凹部には撥水剤、吸水剤が残存することで、後加工の洗濯耐久性も向上すること、さらに、柄表現も可能になることを予想外に見出し、本発明を完成するに至ったものである。 As a result of diligent studies and experiments to solve the above problems, the present inventors have knitted a loop of yarn having a certain thickness so as to be convex on the surface of the knitted fabric (front). , Weak threads are protected from external force to improve wear resistance, and water repellent and water absorbent remain in the recesses, which improves the washing durability of post-processing and also enables pattern expression. It was unexpectedly found that this was the case, and the present invention was completed.

すなわち、本発明は以下のとおりのものである。
[1]総繊度75dtex超220dtex以下、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが25重量%以上90重量%未満の混率で、かつ、合成繊維マルチフィラメントAの総繊度の1/3〜2/3の総繊度、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントBが10重量%超75重量%以下の混率で編成された、ループ密度35〜120コース/2.54cm、35〜70ウェール/2.54cmの編地であって、該編地の最表面(おもてめん)には、該合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが存在し、キーエンス社製ワンショット3D形状測定機VR−3000を用いて倍率12倍で該編地の表面(おもてめん)の線粗さをヨコ方向に長さ10mm測定するとき、輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcが120以上300以下であり、かつ、JIS L 1096 に規定するマーチンデール摩耗試験機を用いて押圧荷重9.0±0.2kPaで該編地の表面(おもてめん)を摩擦するとき、該表面(おもてめん)に存在する糸が破断するときの摩擦回数が30000回以上であり、かつ、該表面(おもてめん)に撥水加工が施され、JIS L 0217 103法に準じた洗濯30回後のJIS L 1092スプレー法による撥水性が3級以上であることを特徴とする学生服用編地。
[2]総繊度75dtex超220dtex以下、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが25重量%以上90重量%未満の混率で、かつ、合成繊維マルチフィラメントAの総繊度の1/3〜2/3の総繊度、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントBが10重量%超75重量%以下の混率で編成された、ループ密度35〜120コース/2.54cm、35〜70ウェール/2.54cmの編地であって、該編地の最表面(おもてめん)には、該合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが存在し、キーエンス社製ワンショット3D形状測定機VR−3000を用いて倍率12倍で該編地の表面(おもてめん)の線粗さをヨコ方向に長さ10mm測定するとき、輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcが120以上300以下であり、かつ、JIS L 1096 に規定するマーチンデール摩耗試験機を用いて押圧荷重9.0±0.2kPaで該編地の表面(おもてめん)を摩擦するとき、該表面(おもてめん)に存在する糸が破断するときの摩擦回数が30000回以上であり、かつ、該表面(おもてめん)に吸水加工が施され、JIS L 0217 103法に準じた洗濯30回後のJIS L 1907滴下法による吸水性が5秒以下であることを特徴とする学生服用編地。
[3]総繊度が50dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントDの混率が2重量%未満である、前記[1]又は[2]に記載の学生服用編地。
[4]前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントAと前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントBはいずれも、仮撚加工されたポリエステル繊維である、前記[1]〜[3]のいずれかに記載の学生服用編地。
[5]前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントAの破断強度が3.5cN/dtex以上であり、かつ、破断伸度が20%以上50%以下である、前記[1]〜[4]のいずれかに記載の学生服用編地。
[6]前記編地は経編地であり、かつ、前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントAと前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントBはいずれも300〜1200T/mの撚糸である、前記[1]〜[5]のいずれかに記載の学生服用編地。
[7]前記編地は丸編地であり、該編地の最表面(おもてめん)に、前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントAのニットループが存在し、かつ、該合成繊維マルチフィラメントAと前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントBはいずれも1300〜1900T/mの撚糸である、前記[1]〜[5]のいずれかに記載の学生服用編地。
[8]ウール、ナイロン、アクリル、綿、キュプラ、及びレーヨンからなる群から選ばれる繊維Cを30重量%以下の混率でさらに含む、前記[1]〜[7]のいずれかに記載の学生服用編地。
[9]前記編地の表面(おもてめん)の、JIS L 1058 D−3法に準拠した15時間試験後のスナッグ性が3級以上である、前記[1]〜[8]のいずれかに記載の学生服用編地。
[10]以下の工程:
熱セット後に総繊度が75dtex超220dtex以下、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下となる合成繊維マルチフィラメントAと、合成繊維マルチフィラメントAの総繊度の1/3〜2/3の総繊度、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントBとを用いて編地を編成する工程;及び
得られた編地を熱セットする工程;
を含む、前記[1]〜[9]のいずれかに記載の学生服用編地の製造方法。
[11]前記[1]〜[9]のいずれかに記載の学生服用編地の表面(おもてめん)を表地に用いた学生服。
That is, the present invention is as follows.
[1] Synthetic fiber multifilament A having a total fineness of more than 75 dtex and 220 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less has a mixing ratio of 25% by weight or more and less than 90% by weight, and the total fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament A. Synthetic fiber multifilament B having a total fineness of 1/3 to 2/3 and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less was knitted at a mixing ratio of more than 10% by weight and 75% by weight or less, and a loop density of 35 to 120. It is a knitted fabric of course / 2.54 cm, 35-70 wales / 2.54 cm, and the synthetic fiber multifilament A is present on the outermost surface (front) of the knitted fabric. When the line roughness of the surface (Omotemen) of the knitted fabric is measured by a shot 3D shape measuring machine VR-3000 at a magnification of 12 times with a length of 10 mm in the horizontal direction, the average height Rc of the contour curve element is When the surface (front) of the knitted fabric is rubbed with a pressing load of 9.0 ± 0.2 kPa using a Martindale wear tester specified in JIS L 1096, which is 120 or more and 300 or less. The number of times of friction when the thread existing on the surface (front) breaks is 30,000 times or more, and the surface (front) is water-repellent, according to the JIS L 0217 103 method. A knitted fabric for students that has a water repellency of grade 3 or higher by the JIS L 1092 spray method after 30 times of washing.
[2] Synthetic fiber multifilament A having a total fineness of more than 75 dtex and 220 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less has a mixing ratio of 25% by weight or more and less than 90% by weight, and the total fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament A. Synthetic fiber multifilament B having a total fineness of 1/3 to 2/3 and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less was knitted at a mixing ratio of more than 10% by weight and 75% by weight or less, and a loop density of 35 to 120. It is a knitted fabric of course / 2.54 cm, 35-70 wales / 2.54 cm, and the synthetic fiber multifilament A is present on the outermost surface (front) of the knitted fabric. When the line roughness of the surface (Omotemen) of the knitted fabric is measured by a shot 3D shape measuring machine VR-3000 at a magnification of 12 times with a length of 10 mm in the horizontal direction, the average height Rc of the contour curve element is When the surface (front) of the knitted fabric is rubbed with a pressing load of 9.0 ± 0.2 kPa using a Martindale wear tester specified in JIS L 1096, which is 120 or more and 300 or less. The number of times of friction when the thread existing on the surface (front) breaks is 30,000 times or more, and the surface (front) is water-absorbent, and conforms to the JIS L 0217 103 method. A knitted fabric for students, characterized in that the water absorption by the JIS L 1907 dropping method after 30 times of washing is 5 seconds or less.
[3] The knitted fabric for students according to the above [1] or [2], wherein the mixed ratio of the synthetic fiber multifilament D having a total fineness of 50 dtex or less is less than 2% by weight.
[4] The knitted fabric for students according to any one of [1] to [3] above, wherein both the synthetic fiber multifilament A and the synthetic fiber multifilament B are false-twisted polyester fibers.
[5] The above-mentioned [1] to [4], wherein the synthetic fiber multifilament A has a breaking strength of 3.5 cN / dtex or more and a breaking elongation of 20% or more and 50% or less. Student clothing knitted fabric.
[6] The knitted fabric is a warp knitted fabric, and the synthetic fiber multifilament A and the synthetic fiber multifilament B are both twisted yarns of 300 to 1200 T / m. The knitted fabric for student use listed in either.
[7] The knitted fabric is a circular knitted fabric, and a knit loop of the synthetic fiber multifilament A exists on the outermost surface (front side) of the knitted fabric, and the synthetic fiber multifilament A and the said The student-use knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [5] above, wherein the synthetic fiber multifilament B is a twisted yarn of 1300 to 1900 T / m.
[8] The student dose according to any one of [1] to [7] above, further comprising fiber C selected from the group consisting of wool, nylon, acrylic, cotton, cupra, and rayon at a mixing ratio of 30% by weight or less. Knitted fabric.
[9] Any of the above [1] to [8], wherein the surface of the knitted fabric (Omotemen) has a snag property of grade 3 or higher after a 15-hour test in accordance with the JIS L 1058 D-3 method. Knitted fabric for student use described in Crab.
[10] The following steps:
Synthetic fiber multifilament A having a total fineness of more than 75 dtex and 220 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less after heat setting, and a total fineness of 1/3 to 2/3 of the total fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament A. , A step of knitting a knitted fabric using a synthetic fiber multifilament B having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less; and a step of heat-setting the obtained knitted fabric;
The method for producing a knitted fabric for student use according to any one of [1] to [9] above.
[11] A school uniform using the surface (front noodles) of the school uniform knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [9] above as the outer material.

本発明に係る学生服用編地を表地に用いれば、編物の欠点であるスナッグや耐摩耗性を向上させながら、ハリコシがあり、さらに染色加工時に付帯加工された撥水性または吸水性の耐久性が改善された学生服を得ることができる。 If the school uniform knitted fabric according to the present invention is used as the outer material, the knitted fabric has elasticity while improving the snag and abrasion resistance, which are the drawbacks of the knitted fabric, and the durability of water repellency or water absorption that is incidentally processed during the dyeing process is improved. You can get improved school uniforms.

実施例1の丸編地の表面(おもてめん)の断面の電子顕微鏡写真である。It is an electron micrograph of the cross section of the surface (Omotemen) of the circular knitted fabric of Example 1. 従来技術で得られた丸編地の表面(おもてめん)の断面の電子顕微鏡写真である。It is an electron micrograph of the cross section of the surface (Omotemen) of the circular knitted fabric obtained by the prior art. 実施例1、2比較例1、2の丸編地の編立図である。It is a knitting diagram of the circular knitted fabric of Examples 1 and 2 Comparative Examples 1 and 2. 従来技術の丸編地例の編立図である。It is a knitting diagram of a circular knitted fabric example of the prior art. 実施例3の経編地(一例)の編立図である。It is a knitting drawing of the warp knitted fabric (one example) of Example 3. 輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcの求め方の説明図である。It is explanatory drawing of the method of obtaining the average height Rc of a contour curve element.

以下、本発明の実施形態を詳細に説明する。
本実施形態の学生服用編地は、総繊度75dtex超220dtex以下、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが25重量%以上90重量%未満の混率で、かつ、合成繊維マルチフィラメントAの総繊度の1/3〜2/3の総繊度、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントBが10重量%超75重量%以下の混率で編成された、ループ密度35〜120コース/2.54cm、35〜70ウェール/2.54cmの編地であって、該編地の最表面(おもてめん)には、該合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが存在し、キーエンス社製ワンショット3D形状測定機VR−3000を用いて倍率12倍で該編地の表面(おもてめん)の線粗さをヨコ方向に長さ10mm測定するとき、輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcが120以上300以下であり、かつ、JIS L 1096 に規定するマーチンデール摩耗試験機を用いて押圧荷重9.0±0.2kPaで該編地の表面(おもてめん)を摩擦するとき、該表面(おもてめん)に存在する糸が破断するときの摩擦回数が30000回以上であり、かつ、該表面(おもてめん)に撥水加工が施され、JIS L 0217 103法に準じた洗濯30回後のJIS L 1092スプレー法による撥水性が3級以上であるか、又は該表面(おもてめん)に吸水加工が施され、JIS L 0217 103法に準じた洗濯30回後のJIS L 1907滴下法による吸水性が5秒以下であることを特徴とする。
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
In the knitted fabric for students of the present embodiment, the synthetic fiber multifilament A having a total fineness of more than 75 dtex and 220 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less is synthesized at a mixing ratio of 25% by weight or more and less than 90% by weight. Synthetic fiber multifilament B having a total fineness of 1/3 to 2/3 of the total fineness of the fiber multifilament A and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less is knitted at a mixing ratio of more than 10% by weight and 75% by weight or less. In addition, the knitted fabric has a loop density of 35 to 120 courses / 2.54 cm, 35 to 70 wales / 2.54 cm, and the synthetic fiber multifilament A is formed on the outermost surface (front) of the knitted fabric. When measuring the line roughness of the surface (Omotemen) of the knitted fabric with a magnification of 12 times using a one-shot 3D shape measuring machine VR-3000 manufactured by Keyence Co., Ltd. in the horizontal direction with a length of 10 mm, the contour curve The surface of the knitted fabric (Omotenmen) with an average height Rc of 120 or more and 300 or less and a pressing load of 9.0 ± 0.2 kPa using a Martindale wear tester specified in JIS L 1096. ) Is rubbed, the number of times of rubbing when the thread existing on the surface (front) breaks is 30,000 times or more, and the surface (front) is water-repellent. The water repellency by the JIS L 1092 spray method after 30 times of washing according to the JIS L 0217 103 method is 3rd grade or higher, or the surface (Omotemen) is water-absorbent and the JIS L 0217 103 method is applied. It is characterized in that the water absorption by the JIS L 1907 dropping method after 30 times of washing according to the above is 5 seconds or less.

[合成繊維マルチフィラメントA]
本実施形態の学生服用編地には、熱セット後に総繊度が75dtex超220dtex以下、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下となる合成繊維マルチフィラメントA(以下、耐摩耗糸ともいう。)が、該編地の表面(おもてめん)の最も外側である最表面(おもてめん)に、キーエンス社製ワンショット3D形状測定機VR−3000を用いて倍率12倍で該編地の表面(おもてめん)の線粗さをヨコ方向に長さ10mm測定するとき、輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcが120以上300以下となるように存在する。合成繊維マルチフィラメントAの熱セット後の総繊度は、84dtex以上176dtex以下、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上3.8以下であることが好ましい。総繊度が220dtexを超え、単糸繊度が5.0dtexを超えると、繊維の剛性が高くなり、曲げがたく、編地の風合いが硬くなる。総繊度が75dtex以下、単糸繊度1.5dtex未満であると、繊維の強度が低く、耐摩耗性や抗スナッグ性が低下する。合成繊維マルチフィラメントAは、編地表面(おもてめん)で十分な凸をつくるために、25重量%以上90重量%未満の混率で交編されることが好ましい。混率が25重量%未満であると、編地表面で凸になるループが足りず弱糸を摩耗から守りづらくなる。混率を25重量%以上とするためには、摩耗されることとなる編地の表面(おもてめん)の表面積の50%以上を合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが占めるように編地を編成すればよい。
[Synthetic fiber multifilament A]
The knitted fabric for students of the present embodiment has a synthetic fiber multifilament A having a total fineness of more than 75 dtex and 220 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less after heat setting (hereinafter, also referred to as abrasion resistant yarn). However, on the outermost surface (Omotemen) of the knitted fabric (Omotemen), the one-shot 3D shape measuring machine VR-3000 manufactured by Keyence Co., Ltd. was used to make the knitted fabric at a magnification of 12 times. When the line roughness of the surface (Omotemen) is measured in the horizontal direction by a length of 10 mm, the average height Rc of the contour curve element exists so as to be 120 or more and 300 or less. The total fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament A after heat setting is preferably 84 dtex or more and 176 dtex or less, and the single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 3.8 or less. When the total fineness exceeds 220 dtex and the single yarn fineness exceeds 5.0 dtex, the rigidity of the fiber becomes high, it is difficult to bend, and the texture of the knitted fabric becomes hard. When the total fineness is 75 dtex or less and the single yarn fineness is less than 1.5 dtex, the strength of the fiber is low, and the abrasion resistance and the snag resistance are lowered. The synthetic fiber multifilament A is preferably cross-knitted at a mixing ratio of 25% by weight or more and less than 90% by weight in order to form a sufficient convexity on the surface of the knitted fabric (front noodles). If the mixing ratio is less than 25% by weight, the loops that are convex on the surface of the knitted fabric are insufficient, and it becomes difficult to protect the weak yarn from abrasion. In order to make the mixing ratio 25% by weight or more, the knitted fabric should be knitted so that the synthetic fiber multifilament A occupies 50% or more of the surface area of the surface area (Omotemen) of the knitted fabric to be worn. good.

合成繊維マルチフィラメントAは、糸物性上、強力が高いものが適しており、破断強度は3.5cN/dtex以上であり、かつ、破断伸度は20%以上50%以下であることが好ましい。より好ましくは、破断強度は4.0cN/dtex以上、さらに好ましくは4.2cN/dtex以上である。破断強度が3.5cN/dtex未満であると、耐摩耗性が良好でない。他方、破断強度は大きいほど摩耗性向上には好ましい特性値であるが、6.0cN/dtex以上では繊維が硬くなる。破断伸度は、より好ましくは30%以上45%以下である。破断伸度が20%未満であると、フィブリル化が起こりやすく、良好な耐摩耗性は得られず、他方、破断伸度が50%を超えると、破断強度を3.5cN/dtex以上とすることが困難となる。合成繊維マルチフィラメントAの製造方法としては、例えば、特許第5700708号公報に記載されているような、延伸処理後、特定範囲の弛緩熱処理を行い、繊維の物性、特に強度、伸度、応力―歪曲線における微分ヤング率を特定範囲に規定したもの、例えば、旭化成株式会社製「エルマックス/ELMAX」(登録商標)が挙げられる。 The synthetic fiber multifilament A is preferably one having high strength in terms of yarn physical characteristics, and preferably has a breaking strength of 3.5 cN / dtex or more and a breaking elongation of 20% or more and 50% or less. More preferably, the breaking strength is 4.0 cN / dtex or more, and even more preferably 4.2 cN / dtex or more. If the breaking strength is less than 3.5 cN / dtex, the wear resistance is not good. On the other hand, the larger the breaking strength, the more preferable the characteristic value for improving the wear resistance, but the fiber becomes harder at 6.0 cN / dtex or more. The elongation at break is more preferably 30% or more and 45% or less. If the breaking elongation is less than 20%, fibrillation is likely to occur and good wear resistance cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the breaking elongation exceeds 50%, the breaking strength is 3.5 cN / dtex or more. Becomes difficult. As a method for producing the synthetic fiber multifilament A, for example, as described in Japanese Patent No. 5700708, after the stretching treatment, a relaxation heat treatment in a specific range is performed, and the physical properties of the fiber, particularly strength, elongation, stress- Examples of the strain curve in which the differential Young's modulus is defined in a specific range, for example, "ELMAX" (registered trademark) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation.

[合成繊維マルチフィラメントB]
また、本実施形態の学生服用編地には、合成繊維マルチフィラメントA(耐摩耗糸A)でできたループが編地表面(おもてめん)でより凸になりやすいよう、熱セット後に該耐摩耗糸Aの総繊度の1/3〜2/3の総繊度、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下となる合成繊維マルチフィラメントBが10重量%超75重量%以下の混率となるように存在する。
合成繊維マルチフィラメントBの単糸繊度は1.5dtex以上3.8dtex以下が好ましい。合成繊維マルチフィラメントBの混率が75重量%以上になると、摩擦に弱い細い糸が編地の表面(おもてめん)を多く占めることになり、編地の耐摩耗性が低下する。編地を交編する際に、総繊度の太い耐摩耗糸Aの送り込み長を長くしてループを盛り上がりやすくすることができる。これにより、編地に耐摩耗性や抗スナッグ性を持たせながら柄表現を多彩にすることが可能となる。
合成繊維マルチフィラメントの総繊度は上記の範囲であればよいが、編地の強度、耐摩耗性を確保するために、50dtexを超えることが好ましい。
[Synthetic fiber multifilament B]
Further, in the knitted fabric for students of the present embodiment, the loop made of the synthetic fiber multifilament A (wear-resistant yarn A) is said to be more convex on the surface of the knitted fabric (front) after heat setting. Synthetic fiber multifilament B having a total fineness of 1/3 to 2/3 of the total fineness of the abrasion resistant yarn A and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less has a mixing ratio of more than 10% by weight and 75% by weight or less. Exists like.
The single yarn fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament B is preferably 1.5 dtex or more and 3.8 dtex or less. When the mixing ratio of the synthetic fiber multifilament B is 75% by weight or more, fine threads that are vulnerable to friction occupy a large amount of the surface (front noodles) of the knitted fabric, and the abrasion resistance of the knitted fabric is lowered. When the knitted fabric is cross-knitted, the feed length of the abrasion-resistant yarn A having a large total fineness can be lengthened to facilitate the swelling of the loop. This makes it possible to diversify the pattern expression while giving the knitted fabric abrasion resistance and anti-snag resistance.
The total fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament may be in the above range, but it is preferably more than 50 dtex in order to secure the strength and abrasion resistance of the knitted fabric.

本発明の学生服用編地の編成方法は特に限定されず、経編地でもヨコ編地でもよい。ヨコ編地、特に丸編地において、編地表面に合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが凸の構造を形成させるための方法としては、前述した糸Bによって合成繊維マルチフィラメントAを凸構造にする上に、合成繊維マルチフィラメントAからなるループと合成繊維マルチフィラメントBからなるループを交互に配置させて、繊度差によるループの凹凸を形成させる方法が好ましく、さらに総繊度の太い合成繊維マルチフィラメントAのランナー長を合成繊維マルチフィラメントBより長くする、製品表側に編み込まれるA糸に裏側からB糸をタック組織で編み込んで盛り上げる柄を作るなど、編組織に合わせて適宜条件を選択して調整することができる。 The knitting method of the student-use knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a warp knitted fabric or a horizontal knitted fabric. In horizontal knitted fabrics, especially circular knitted fabrics, as a method for forming the synthetic fiber multifilament A into a convex structure on the surface of the knitted fabric, the synthetic fiber multifilament A is made into a convex structure by the above-mentioned thread B, and the synthetic fiber multifilament A is formed into a convex structure. A method of alternately arranging loops made of synthetic fiber multifilament A and loops made of synthetic fiber multifilament B to form irregularities of the loop due to the difference in fineness is preferable, and the runner length of the synthetic fiber multifilament A having a large total fineness is more preferable. Can be adjusted by selecting appropriate conditions according to the knitting structure, such as making the synthetic fiber multifilament longer than the synthetic fiber multifilament B, or knitting the B thread from the back side into the A thread knitted on the front side of the product with a tuck structure to create a raised pattern. ..

かかる繊度差と交編する重量混率と編組織の組み合わせにより、本実施形態の学生服用編地では、該編地の最表面(おもてめん)には、該合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが存在し、キーエンス社製ワンショット3D形状測定機VR−3000を用いて倍率12倍で該編地の表面(おもてめん)の線粗さをヨコ方向に長さ10mm測定するとき、輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcが120以上300以下であり、かつ、JIS L 1096 に規定するマーチンデール摩耗試験機を用いて押圧荷重9.0±0.2kPaで該編地の表面(おもてめん)を摩擦するとき、該表面(おもてめん)に存在する糸が破断するときの摩擦回数が30000回以上であるものとなる。
輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcが120以上300以下であれば、耐摩耗糸のループが編地の表面(おもてめん)に十分に露出したものといえる。
Due to the combination of the difference in fineness, the weight mixing ratio to be interwoven, and the knitting structure, the synthetic fiber multifilament A is present on the outermost surface (front) of the knitted fabric for students of the present embodiment. , When measuring the line roughness of the surface (Omotemen) of the knitted fabric with a magnification of 12 times using a one-shot 3D shape measuring machine VR-3000 manufactured by Keyence Co., Ltd. in the horizontal direction with a length of 10 mm, the contour curve element The surface (front) of the knitted fabric has an average height Rc of 120 or more and 300 or less, and a pressing load of 9.0 ± 0.2 kPa using a Martindale wear tester specified in JIS L 1096. When rubbing, the number of times of friction when the thread existing on the surface (front) breaks is 30,000 times or more.
When the average height Rc of the contour curve element is 120 or more and 300 or less, it can be said that the loop of the abrasion resistant yarn is sufficiently exposed on the surface (front side) of the knitted fabric.

以下、図6を参照して、複合加工糸が現れている編地表面(おもてめん)の輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcについて以下説明する。
編組織図に示す供給口1に合成繊維マルチフィラメントAを用いれば、編地作製を経て編地表面(おもてめん)に、該複合加工糸のニットループが現れる。「編地底面」とは、ニットループとニットループの間に存在する空間の底部であり、「編地頂点」とは、ニットループの頂点を意味する。測定曲線に示すように、輪郭曲線要素とは、線粗さ測定長さ(10mm)における、一つの(波の)編地底面の深さと編地頂点の高さの和である。輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcとは、輪郭曲線要素の(全ての波の)平均値である。すなわち編地の表面に凹凸が現れれば、Rc値は高くなる。本実施形態の学生服用編地では、Rc値は120以上300以下である必要があり、好ましくは130以上250以下である。表面に凹凸が形成されると、強力な合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが存在する凸部は耐摩耗性を発揮し、凹部には染色後加工によって付加された加工剤が摩耗から守られ、耐久性を発揮することができる。Rc値が120未満であると、編地表面は平滑傾向であり、耐摩耗性や抗スナッグ性はよいが、編地全面が摩耗されるため、加工剤が残存しにくく耐久性が低下してしまう。他方、Rc値が300を超えると、凹凸が高すぎて鋭いものなどに引っ掛かりやすくなり、スナッギング悪化の原因となる。
Hereinafter, with reference to FIG. 6, the average height Rc of the contour curve element of the knitted fabric surface (Omotemen) in which the composite processed yarn appears will be described below.
If the synthetic fiber multifilament A is used for the supply port 1 shown in the knitting structure diagram, the knit loop of the composite processed yarn appears on the surface of the knitted fabric (Omotemen) after the knitted fabric is produced. The "bottom surface of the knitted fabric" is the bottom of the space existing between the knit loops, and the "top of the knitted fabric" means the apex of the knit loop. As shown in the measurement curve, the contour curve element is the sum of the depth of the bottom surface of one (wave) knitted fabric and the height of the apex of the knitted fabric in the line roughness measurement length (10 mm). The average height Rc of the contour curve element is the average value (of all waves) of the contour curve element. That is, if unevenness appears on the surface of the knitted fabric, the Rc value becomes high. In the student-use knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the Rc value needs to be 120 or more and 300 or less, preferably 130 or more and 250 or less. When unevenness is formed on the surface, the convex portion where the strong synthetic fiber multifilament A is present exhibits abrasion resistance, and the processing agent added by the post-dyeing process is protected from abrasion in the concave portion to improve durability. Can be demonstrated. When the Rc value is less than 120, the surface of the knitted fabric tends to be smooth, and the abrasion resistance and the anti-snagging property are good. It ends up. On the other hand, if the Rc value exceeds 300, the unevenness is too high and it is easy to get caught in a sharp object, which causes deterioration of snugging.

合成繊維マルチフィラメントAと合成繊維マルチフィラメントBはいずれも、仮撚加工されたポリエステル繊維であることができる。 Both the synthetic fiber multifilament A and the synthetic fiber multifilament B can be false-twisted polyester fibers.

本実施形態の学生服用編地において、熱セット後に総繊度20dtex以上50dtex以下で、沸水収縮率が10%以上の合成繊維マルチフィラメントDをさらに混用することによっても、当該凹凸を強調することができるが、特殊な繊維をさらに混用することで、耐久性、染色性等の管理が煩雑になること、またコスト上の点から、本発明では総繊度50dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントを混用しないか、混用しても混率が2重量%未満であることが好ましい。 In the student-use knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the unevenness can be emphasized by further mixing the synthetic fiber multifilament D having a total fineness of 20 dtex or more and 50 dtex or less and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 10% or more after heat setting. However, by further mixing special fibers, management of durability, dyeability, etc. becomes complicated, and from the viewpoint of cost, in the present invention, synthetic fiber multifilaments having a total fineness of 50 dtex or less may not be mixed. Even if they are mixed, the mixing ratio is preferably less than 2% by weight.

本実施形態の学生服用編地のループ密度は、35〜120コース/2.54cm、35〜70ウェール/2.54cmであり、好ましくは40〜100コース/インチ(2.54cm)、40〜65ウェール/インチ(2.54cm)である。ループ密度が35コース、35ウェール/インチ未満であると、編地上で凸になっている耐摩耗糸Aのループ間隔が離れる原因となり、弱糸が表面にさらされて摩耗される原因となる。他方、120コース/インチ、70ウェール/インチを超えると、ループ密度が高すぎて、通気度やストレッチ性が低下し、快適性に悪影響を及ぼす。 The loop density of the student-use knitted fabric of the present embodiment is 35 to 120 courses / 2.54 cm, 35 to 70 wales / 2.54 cm, preferably 40 to 100 courses / inch (2.54 cm), 40 to 65. Wale / inch (2.54 cm). If the loop density is less than 35 courses and 35 wales / inch, the loop spacing of the abrasion resistant yarns A, which are convex on the knitted ground, is separated, which causes the weak yarns to be exposed to the surface and worn. On the other hand, if it exceeds 120 courses / inch or 70 wales / inch, the loop density is too high, the air permeability and stretchability are lowered, and the comfort is adversely affected.

経編地においても、同様に、設計組織に合わせて合成繊維マルチフィラメントAとBの整経本数とガイドへ通す配列を調整することによって所定の重量混率となるようにすればよい。本実施形態の学生服用編地を経編機で編成する場合、スナッグやピリングといった生地の物性を保持する点から、ニードル面を製品表側として扱うことが好ましい。凹凸を形成するためには、A糸をバック筬に、B糸をフロント筬又はミドル筬に編み込むことが好ましく、例えば、A糸とB糸を各筬のガイドに一本交互に通した1in1outで交編してストライプ調にする方法が挙げられ、これによって前述の丸編地同様の表面状態を達成することができる。 Similarly, in the warp knitted fabric, the warp number of the synthetic fiber multifilaments A and B and the arrangement through which the synthetic fibers are passed through the guide may be adjusted according to the design structure to obtain a predetermined weight mixing ratio. When the student-use knitted fabric of the present embodiment is knitted by a warp knitting machine, it is preferable to treat the needle surface as the front side of the product from the viewpoint of maintaining the physical characteristics of the fabric such as snags and pillings. In order to form the unevenness, it is preferable to knit the A thread into the back reed and the B thread into the front reed or the middle reed. A method of cross-knitting to make a striped pattern can be mentioned, and a surface condition similar to that of the above-mentioned circular knitted fabric can be achieved by this method.

前記したように、合成繊維マルチフィラメントA、Bはいずれも、ポリエステルからなり、仮撚加工されたものであることができる。ポリエステルは、任意の方法によって合成したもので構わない。例えば、ポリエステルの場合、テレフタル酸とエチレングリコールとを直接エステル化学反応させるか、テレフタル酸ジメチルなどのテレフタル酸とエチレングリコールとをエステル交換反応させるか、又はテレフタル酸ジメチルなどのテレフタル酸の低級アルキルエステエルとエチレングリコールとをエステル交換反応させるか、又はテレフタル酸とエチレンオキサイドとを反応させるかして、テレフタル酸のグリコールエステル及び/又はその低重合体を生成させる第1段階の反応と、第1段階の反応生成物を減圧下加熱して所望の重合度になるまで重縮合反応させる第2段階の反応と、によって製造されたものであることができる。また、単糸の断面形状としては、特に制限はなく通常の丸断面でもよいし、異型断面形状であってもよい。具体的な異型断面形状としては、三角、四角、十字、扁平、W型、I型、くびれ付扁平型などが挙げられる。 As described above, both the synthetic fiber multifilaments A and B are made of polyester and can be false-twisted. The polyester may be synthesized by any method. For example, in the case of polyester, terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol are directly subjected to a transesterification reaction, terephthalic acid such as dimethyl terephthalate and ethylene glycol are transesterified, or a lower alkyl esthetic of terephthalic acid such as dimethyl terephthalate is used. A first-step reaction to produce a glycol ester of terephthalic acid and / or a low polymer thereof by transesterifying el and ethylene glycol or reacting terephthalic acid with ethylene oxide, and a first step. It can be produced by a second step reaction in which the reaction product of the step is heated under reduced pressure and transesterified to a desired degree of polymerization. The cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is not particularly limited and may be a normal round cross-sectional shape or a modified cross-sectional shape. Specific examples of the irregular cross-sectional shape include a triangular shape, a square shape, a cross shape, a flat shape, a W type, an I type, and a flat type with a constriction.

前記ポリエステル繊維には、必要に応じて艶消し剤(酸化チタン化合物)、紫外線吸収剤、微細孔形成剤(有機スルホン酸金属塩)、着色防止剤、熱安定剤、難燃剤(三酸化アンチモン)、蛍光増白剤、着色顔料、帯電防止剤(スルホン酸金属塩)、吸湿剤(ポリオキシアルキレングリコール)、抗菌剤のような無機粒子の1種類以上が0.1重量%以上含まれていてもよい。 The polyester fiber may contain a matting agent (titanium oxide compound), an ultraviolet absorber, a micropore forming agent (organic sulfonic acid metal salt), a color inhibitor, a heat stabilizer, and a flame retardant (antimony trioxide), if necessary. , Fluorescent whitening agent, coloring pigment, antistatic agent (metal sulfonic acid salt), hygroscopic agent (polyoxyalkylene glycol), one or more kinds of inorganic particles such as antibacterial agent are contained in 0.1% by weight or more. May be good.

本実施形態の学生服用編地は、丸編地であり、該編地の最表面(おもてめん)に、前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントAのニットループが存在し、かつ、該合成繊維マルチフィラメントと前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントBはいずれも1300〜1900T/mの撚糸であることができる。
合成長繊維は特有の光沢を有しており、これを編地にした際に表面がぎらつく原因となって安っぽく見えてしまう。合成繊維に撚りをかけることで、編地のぎらつきを消失させながらハリコシをだし、学生服として好ましいウールのようなシャリ感を与えることができる。
本実施形態の学生服用編地が丸編地である場合、合成繊維マルチフィラメントAとBの撚り回数は1300〜1900T/mが好ましい。1900T/mを超えると、トルクが強すぎて編み立て性が悪化する。他方、1300T/m未満であると、合成繊維のテカリ消失やシャリ感の付与が不十分となる。
The knitted fabric for students of the present embodiment is a circular knitted fabric, and the knit loop of the synthetic fiber multifilament A is present on the outermost surface (front side) of the knitted fabric, and the synthetic fiber multifilament is present. And the synthetic fiber multifilament B can both be twisted yarns of 1300 to 1900 T / m.
The synthetic fiber has a peculiar luster, and when it is made into a knitted fabric, it causes the surface to glaring and looks cheap. By twisting the synthetic fiber, it is possible to give the knitted fabric a firmness while eliminating the glare, and to give a wool-like crispness that is preferable for school uniforms.
When the knitted fabric for students of the present embodiment is a circular knitted fabric, the number of twists of the synthetic fiber multifilaments A and B is preferably 1300 to 1900 T / m. If it exceeds 1900 T / m, the torque is too strong and the knitting property deteriorates. On the other hand, if it is less than 1300 T / m, the shine of the synthetic fiber disappears and the feeling of crispness is insufficiently provided.

また、本実施形態の学生服用編地は、経編地であり、かつ、前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントAと前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントBはいずれも300〜1200T/mの撚糸であることができる。
経編地は、製造時において、丸編みよりも、トルクが編み立て性に与える影響が大きいため、合成繊維マルチフィラメントAとBの撚り回数は300〜1200T/mが好ましい。
Further, the knitted fabric for students of the present embodiment is a warp knitted fabric, and the synthetic fiber multifilament A and the synthetic fiber multifilament B can both be twisted yarns of 300 to 1200 T / m.
In the warp knitted fabric, the torque of the warp knitted fabric has a greater influence on the knitting property than that of the circular knitting. Therefore, the number of twists of the synthetic fibers multifilaments A and B is preferably 300 to 1200 T / m.

[繊維C]
本実施形態の学生服用編地は、ウール、ナイロン、綿、アクリル、キュプラ、及びレーヨンからなる群から選ばれる繊維Cを30重量%以下の混率でさらに含むことができる。
本実施形態の学生服用編地は、ポリエステル繊維のみからなる編物であってもよいが、他の繊維が交編されていてもよく、非制限的に、例えば、ナイロン、アクリル、キュプラ、レーヨン等の繊維で交編してもよい。他の繊維としてキュプラ、レーヨンなど強度が低い繊維を交編するときは、編地の表面(おもてめん)側に露出しない組織に、30重量%以下の混率で編み込むことが好ましい。
尚、総繊度50dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメント(以下の繊維Dを包含する)は、耐摩耗性の観点から、混用しないか、混用しても混率が2重量%未満であることが好ましい。
[Fiber C]
The student-use knitted fabric of the present embodiment can further contain fiber C selected from the group consisting of wool, nylon, cotton, acrylic, cupra, and rayon in a mixing ratio of 30% by weight or less.
The knitted fabric for students of the present embodiment may be a knitted fabric made of only polyester fibers, but may be interwoven with other fibers, and is not limited to, for example, nylon, acrylic, cupra, rayon, etc. You may mix and knit with the fibers of. When interlacing low-strength fibers such as cupra and rayon as other fibers, it is preferable to knit them into a structure that is not exposed on the surface (front noodles) side of the knitted fabric at a mixing ratio of 30% by weight or less.
From the viewpoint of abrasion resistance, the synthetic fiber multifilament having a total fineness of 50 dtex or less (including the following fiber D) is preferably not mixed, or even if mixed, the mixing ratio is less than 2% by weight.

本実施形態の学生服用編地は、前記した合成繊維マルチフィラメントA、B、場合により繊維Cを用いて通常の編機を使用して容易に作製することができる。また、編地の染色加工として、通常の染色仕上げ工程を適用できる。例えば、液流染色機、ウインス染色機等を任意に選択することができる。ピンテンターによる熱セットも生地にシワがよらないように適度に引き伸ばせばよい。 The student-use knitted fabric of the present embodiment can be easily produced using the above-mentioned synthetic fiber multifilaments A and B, and in some cases fibers C, using a normal knitting machine. Further, as the dyeing process of the knitted fabric, a normal dyeing finishing process can be applied. For example, a liquid flow dyeing machine, a wins dyeing machine and the like can be arbitrarily selected. The heat set by the pin tenter should also be stretched appropriately so that the fabric does not wrinkle.

[繊維D]
また、本実施形態の学生服用編地には、熱セット後に総繊度20dtex以上50dtex以下、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下となる沸水収縮率が10%以上の合成繊維マルチフィラメントDが2重量%未満で編み込まれてもよい。合成繊維マルチフィラメントDの沸水収縮率を、合成繊維マルチフィラメントA、Bの沸水収縮率よりも、5%以上高くすることにより、沸水収縮率10%以上の合成繊維マルチフィラメントD(以下、収縮糸Dともいう。)が、染色加工時、熱セット時の熱で収縮し前記した繊度を持ち、摩耗に強い合成繊維マルチフィラメントAのループが、編地の表面(おもてめん)に配し、耐摩耗性の糸で凸部を有する構造を形成し、もって編地の耐摩耗性を向上させるとともに、学生服用編地として好ましいハリコシを付与する傾向がさらに強くなる。
[Fiber D]
Further, the knitted fabric for students of the present embodiment contains a synthetic fiber multifilament D having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 10% or more, which has a total fineness of 20 dtex or more and 50 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less after heat setting. It may be woven in less than 2% by weight. By making the boiling water shrinkage rate of the synthetic fiber multifilament D higher than the boiling water shrinkage rate of the synthetic fiber multifilaments A and B by 5% or more, the synthetic fiber multifilament D having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 10% or more (hereinafter, shrinkage yarn). D) is shrunk by the heat during dyeing and heat setting, and the loop of synthetic fiber multifilament A, which has the above-mentioned fineness and is resistant to wear, is arranged on the surface of the knitted fabric (Omotemen). A structure having a convex portion is formed of an abrasion-resistant yarn, thereby improving the abrasion resistance of the knitted fabric and further increasing the tendency to impart a favorable elasticity as a knitted fabric for student use.

かくして得られた、本実施形態の学生服用編地は、JIS L 1096 に規定するマーチンデール摩耗試験機を用いて押圧荷重9.0±0.2kPaで該編地の表面(おもてめん)を摩擦するとき、該表面(おもてめん)に存在する糸が破断するときの摩擦回数が30000回以上であるものとなる。学生服(学生衣料)は最低3年と着用期間が長く、一日の着用時間も長くなるため摩耗による耐久性はきわめて重要である。発明者らは、通常織物に適用される全方向への摩耗を行うマーチンデール法による過酷な条件で試験を繰り返し、摩耗回数が30000回以上というこれまで達成されていなかった学生服用編地の耐摩耗性を達成した。
本実施形態の学生服用編地では、該編地の表面(おもてめん)の、JIS L 1058 D−3法に準拠した15時間試験後のスナッグ性が3級以上であることが好ましい。
The student-use knitted fabric of the present embodiment thus obtained is the surface of the knitted fabric (Omotemen) with a pressing load of 9.0 ± 0.2 kPa using a Martindale wear tester specified in JIS L 1096. When rubbing, the number of times of friction when the thread existing on the surface (front) breaks is 30,000 times or more. School uniforms (student clothing) have a long wearing period of at least 3 years, and the wearing time per day is long, so durability due to wear is extremely important. The inventors repeated the test under the harsh conditions of the Martindale method, which wears in all directions, which is usually applied to textiles, and the resistance of the knitted fabric for student use, which has not been achieved so far, is more than 30,000 times. Achieved wear resistance.
In the student-use knitted fabric of the present embodiment, it is preferable that the surface (Omotemen) of the knitted fabric has a snag property of grade 3 or higher after a 15-hour test in accordance with the JIS L 1058 D-3 method.

また、本実施形態の学生服用編地を表地に用いて学生服を作製し、該表地に撥水加工を施すとき、又は、学生服を作製する前に該編地自体に撥水加工を施すとき、JIS L 0217 103法に準じた洗濯30回後のJIS L 1092スプレー法による撥水性が3級以上である学生服を製造することができる。
本実施形態の学生服用編地では、編地表面(おもてめん)に凹凸構造が形成されることによって、撥水加工剤が固着する表面積が増加する。これにより編地表面に撥水剤が付着しやすくなり繰り返し洗濯が行われても残存する撥水剤が多くなるため耐久性が長持ちしやすくなる。図1は、実施例1の編地を切って、その断面から表面形態を電子顕微鏡で撮影したものである。ループによって編地表面に凹凸が形成されている様子が観察できる。
他方、図2は、従来技術で得られた平滑な丸編地の表面形態を撮影したものである。ループが同じ高さで並び平滑である様子が観察できる。尚、図2に示す従来技術で得られた編地は、以下の[従来技術の丸編地の製造方法]で製造したものであり、特定の糸使い及び表面平滑化により抗スナッグ性は改良されたが、意匠性が劣り、また撥水加工や親水加工を行う場合に、剤が洗濯で脱落しやすく加工耐久性が劣る。
Further, when the school uniform of the present embodiment is used as the outer material to prepare the school uniform and the outer material is subjected to the water repellent treatment, or before the school uniform is prepared, the knitted fabric itself is subjected to the water repellent treatment. Then, it is possible to manufacture school uniforms having a water repellency of grade 3 or higher by the JIS L 1092 spray method after 30 times of washing according to the JIS L 0217 103 method.
In the student-use knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the surface area to which the water-repellent processing agent adheres increases due to the formation of an uneven structure on the surface of the knitted fabric (Omotemen). As a result, the water repellent agent easily adheres to the surface of the knitted fabric, and a large amount of the water repellent agent remains even after repeated washing, so that the durability is easily maintained for a long time. FIG. 1 is obtained by cutting the knitted fabric of Example 1 and photographing the surface morphology from the cross section with an electron microscope. It can be observed that unevenness is formed on the surface of the knitted fabric by the loop.
On the other hand, FIG. 2 is a photograph of the surface morphology of the smooth circular knitted fabric obtained by the prior art. It can be observed that the loops are lined up at the same height and are smooth. The knitted fabric obtained by the prior art shown in FIG. 2 was produced by the following [method for producing a circular knitted fabric of the prior art], and the anti-snagging property was improved by using a specific yarn and smoothing the surface. However, the design is inferior, and when water-repellent treatment or hydrophilic treatment is performed, the agent is easily removed by washing and the processing durability is inferior.

[従来技術の丸編地の製造方法(比較例3)]
福原精機22ゲージ33インチの丸編機を用いて、図4に示すように、強度4.1cN/dtex、伸度26.4%のポリエステル加工糸174デシテックス72フィラメントAを、F3、F6に、強度4.1cN/dtex、伸度30.4%のポリエステル加工糸85デシテックス36フィラメントBを、F1、F4に、そして強度2.5cN/dtex、伸度18.7%のポリエステル加工糸110デシテックス48フィラメント(2つ目の)Bを、F2、F5に供給し、編地表面が全面A糸からなる平滑な生機を得た。得られた生機を連続式水系リラックス/精錬機を用いて80℃で精錬した後、ピンテンターにて巾だしして、190℃×1minでプレセットを行った。その後、液流染色機にて、130℃ポリエステル分散染色を行い、ソーピング後、シワを取り除くため適度に生地を伸長させ、170℃×1minのファイナルセットを行い、生地を得た。得られた生地は、糸の混率としてAが52.1%、Cが30.2%、(2つ目の)Cが17.7%、58コース/インチ、38ウェール/インチ、目付は324g/m2、平均高さRcが117.4μm、摩耗回数は35000回、スナッグはタテ4級、ヨコ4級、ぎらつきは×であった。
[Conventional method for manufacturing a circular knitted fabric (Comparative Example 3)]
As shown in FIG. 4, a polyester processed yarn 174 decitex 72 filament A having a strength of 4.1 cN / dtex and an elongation of 26.4% was applied to F3 and F6 using a Fukuhara Seiki 22 gauge 33 inch circular knitting machine. Polyester processed yarn 85 decitex 36 filament B with strength 4.1 cN / dtex and elongation 30.4% to F1 and F4, and polyester processed yarn 110 decitex 48 with strength 2.5 cN / dtex and elongation 18.7%. Filament (second) B was supplied to F2 and F5 to obtain a smooth raw machine having a knitted fabric surface made entirely of A yarn. The obtained raw machine was smelted at 80 ° C. using a continuous water-based relaxing / refining machine, then squeezed with a pin tenter and preset at 190 ° C. × 1 min. Then, a polyester dispersion dyeing at 130 ° C. was performed with a liquid flow dyeing machine, and after soaping, the dough was appropriately stretched to remove wrinkles, and a final set at 170 ° C. × 1 min was performed to obtain a dough. The obtained fabric had a yarn content of 52.1% for A, 30.2% for C, 17.7% for (second) C, 58 courses / inch, 38 wales / inch, and a basis weight of 324 g. / M 2 , the average height Rc was 117.4 μm, the number of times of wear was 35,000, the snag was vertical 4th grade, horizontal 4th grade, and the glare was ×.

撥水加工の際に用いる撥水剤としては、非制限的に、フッ素系、シリコン系、パラフィン系、エチレン尿素系、脂肪酸系などの撥水剤を挙げることができるが、洗濯耐久性の点からフッ素系、シリコン系の撥水剤を使用するのが好ましい。 Examples of the water repellent used in the water repellent treatment include, but are not limited to, fluorine-based, silicon-based, paraffin-based, ethyleneurea-based, and fatty acid-based water repellents. Therefore, it is preferable to use a fluorine-based or silicon-based water repellent.

また、撥水加工に限らず、吸水加工、抗菌防臭加工、防汚加工等、最終的な要求特性に応じて適宜付与することができる。吸水加工としては、編地にポリエチレングリコールジアクリレートやその誘導体、ポリエチレンテレフタレート−ポリエチレングリコール共重合体などの親水化剤を染色時に同浴加工するか、ファイナルセット工程で編地に付与することが好ましい。また、かかる親水化剤の付着量は、編地の重量に対して0.25〜0.5重量%であることができる。これにより、本実施形態の学生服用編地を表地に用いて学生服を作製し、該表地に吸水加工を施すとき、又は、学生服を作製する前に該編地自体に吸水加工を施すとき、JIS L 0217 103法に準じた洗濯30回後のJIS L 1907滴下法による吸水性が5秒以下である学生服を製造することができる。 Further, the treatment is not limited to the water-repellent treatment, and can be appropriately applied according to the final required characteristics such as water absorption treatment, antibacterial deodorization treatment, and antifouling treatment. As the water absorption treatment, it is preferable to apply a hydrophilic agent such as polyethylene glycol diacrylate or a derivative thereof or a polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer to the knitted fabric at the time of dyeing, or to apply it to the knitted fabric in the final setting step. .. Further, the amount of the hydrophilizing agent attached can be 0.25 to 0.5% by weight with respect to the weight of the knitted fabric. As a result, when the school uniform of the present embodiment is used as the outer material to prepare the school uniform and the outer material is subjected to the water absorption treatment, or when the knitted fabric itself is subjected to the water absorption treatment before the school uniform is prepared. , JIS L 0217 103 It is possible to manufacture school uniforms having a water absorption of 5 seconds or less by the JIS L 1907 dropping method after 30 times of washing.

以下、実施例、比較例により本発明を具体的に説明する。
まず、実施例等で用いた各種物性の測定方法等を以下に説明する。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples.
First, the methods for measuring various physical properties used in the examples and the like will be described below.

(1)耐摩耗性
JIS L 1096織物及び編物の生地試験方法に基づき、マーチンデール摩耗試験機にて押圧荷重9.0±0.2kPa摩擦し、編地表面の糸が破断した時の摩擦回数を記録する。破断した時の摩擦回数が30000回以上を合格とした。
(1) Abrasion resistance Based on the JIS L 1096 fabric test method for woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, a pressing load of 9.0 ± 0.2 kPa is rubbed with a Martindale abrasion tester, and the number of frictions when the yarn on the surface of the knitted fabric breaks. To record. A pass was made when the number of frictions at the time of breakage was 30,000 or more.

(2)撥水性
JIS L 1092スプレー法に基づき撥水性を判定した。比較見本を参考に1級(もっとも悪い)から5級(もっとも良い)の間で等級を決定した。3級以上を合格とした。
(2) Water repellency The water repellency was determined based on the JIS L 1092 spray method. The grade was decided between the 1st grade (worst) and the 5th grade (best) with reference to the comparative sample. Level 3 and above were passed.

(3)吸水性
JIS L 1907に基づき水を1滴滴下して試験片の鏡面反射が消えるまでの時間をストップウォッチで測定して記録した。1秒未満であればその旨を記載した。
(3) Water absorption Based on JIS L 1907, a drop of water was dropped and the time until the specular reflection of the test piece disappeared was measured and recorded with a stopwatch. If it is less than 1 second, that fact is stated.

(4)スナッグ性
スナッグ性は、JIS L 1058に記載のICI型ピリング試験機を用いたカナノコ法(D−3法)で15時間操作した後の試料外観を観察して評価した。標準写真1級(もっとも悪い)から5級(もっとも良い)の間で等級を決定した。尚、1級と2級の中間程度である場合1−2級と判定した。タテおよびヨコが3級以上を合格とした。
(4) Snag property The snag property was evaluated by observing the appearance of the sample after operating for 15 hours by the cananoco method (D-3 method) using the ICI type pilling tester described in JIS L 1058. The grade was decided between the standard photograph 1st grade (worst) and 5th grade (best). If it is between the 1st and 2nd grades, it is judged to be 1-2 grade. Vertical and horizontal passed grade 3 or higher.

(5)ぎらつき(光沢)
ぎらつきの判定は、生地表面を目視により確認し判定した。ぎらつきが強く学生服としてふさわしくない見た目の編地は×、ぎらつきが弱いが消失しているとはいえない見た目の編地は△、ぎらつきが無く学生服にふさわしい見た目の編地は○と判定した。
(5) Glitter (gloss)
The glare was judged by visually confirming the surface of the fabric. The knitted fabric that has strong glare and is not suitable for school uniform is ×, the knitted fabric that has weak glare but cannot be said to have disappeared is △, and the knitted fabric that does not have glare and is suitable for school uniform is ○ It was judged.

(6)目付
20℃×65%RHで1日調湿した編地から10cm×10cmのサンプルを切り出し、精密天秤で重量をgで測定し100を乗じてg/m2に換算した。
(6) Metsuke A sample of 10 cm × 10 cm was cut out from a knitted fabric whose humidity was adjusted at 20 ° C. × 65% RH for one day, and the weight was measured in g with a precision balance and multiplied by 100 to convert to g / m 2.

(7)原糸の破断強度、破断伸度
JIS L 1013化学繊維フィラメント糸試験方法に基づき、下記の条件で平均5回測定した平均値をもとめた。単糸繊度は、糸の繊度をフィラメント数で除して算出した。
試験片長さ :200mm
引張速度 :200mm/min
(7) Breaking strength and breaking elongation of raw yarn Based on the JIS L 1013 chemical fiber filament yarn test method, the average value measured 5 times on average under the following conditions was obtained. The single yarn fineness was calculated by dividing the fineness of the yarn by the number of filaments.
Specimen length: 200 mm
Tensile speed: 200 mm / min

(8)輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRc
編地表面(製品表となる側)について、以下の測定を行った。
編地表面に大きなたるみ、シワがよらないよう直径12cmの円形状の型枠に編地をはめて固定した。その型枠の中央部分を、キーエンス社製ワンショット3D形状測定機VR−3000を用いて倍率12倍で編地ヨコ方向10mmの長さにおいて線粗さを測定した。測定長さ(10mm)における輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcを得た。位置を代えた測定長さ(10mm)において10回測定し、得られた平均高さRcの平均値を算出した。
(8) Average height Rc of contour curve elements
The following measurements were made on the knitted fabric surface (the side that becomes the product table).
The knitted fabric was fixed by fitting it into a circular mold with a diameter of 12 cm so that the surface of the knitted fabric would not have large slack or wrinkles. The central portion of the mold was measured for line roughness at a magnification of 12 times and a length of 10 mm in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric using a one-shot 3D shape measuring machine VR-3000 manufactured by KEYENCE CORPORATION. The average height Rc of the contour curve element at the measurement length (10 mm) was obtained. The measurement was performed 10 times at the measurement length (10 mm) in which the position was changed, and the average value of the obtained average height Rc was calculated.

(9)洗濯処理
JIS L 0217 103法に基づき編地を30回洗濯する。「洗濯後」とは、編地がかかる洗濯処理を施されていることを意味する。
(9) Washing treatment The knitted fabric is washed 30 times based on the JIS L 0217 103 method. "After washing" means that the knitted fabric has been subjected to a washing process.

[実施例1]
福原精機28ゲージ33インチの丸編み機を用いて、図3に示すように、破断強度4.3cN/dtex、破断伸度34.5%、沸水収縮率4.0%のポリエステル加工糸176デシテックス48フィラメントで撚数が1300T/mの撚糸Aを、給糸口F3、F7、F11に、強度3.7cN/dtex、伸度18.9%、沸水収縮率4.0%のポリエステル84デシテックス36フィラメントで撚数が1600T/mの撚糸Bを、F1、F5、F9に、そして強度3.7cN/dtex、伸度18.9%、沸水収縮率4.0%のポリエステル84デシテックス36フィラメント加工糸Bを、F2、F4、F6、F8、F10、F12に供給して、ツイル組織の生機を作製した。得られた生機を連続式水系リラックス/精錬機を用いて80℃で精錬した後、ピンテンターにて巾だしして、190℃×1minでプレセットを行った。その後、液流染色機にて130℃ポリエステル分散染色を行いソーピング後、フッ素系吸水加工剤を添加した水槽に浸漬してマングルで脱水し、シワを取り除くため適度に生地を伸長させ、170℃×1minのファイナルセットを行い、生地を得た。得られた生地は、糸の重量混率がポリエステル176デシテックス48フィラメント撚糸A54.7%、ポリエステル84デシテックス36フィラメント撚糸B24.0%、ポリエステル84デシテックス36フィラメントB21.3%、48コース/インチ、45ウェール/インチ、目付は272g/m2、平均高さRcが234μm、摩擦回数は42500回、スナッグはタテ4級、ヨコ4級、初期撥水は4級、摩耗後の撥水性は3級、洗濯30回後の撥水性は3級、ぎらつきは○であった。結果を以下の表1に示す。
[Example 1]
Fukuhara Seiki Using a 28-gauge 33-inch circular knitting machine, as shown in FIG. 3, polyester processed yarn 176 decitex 48 with a breaking strength of 4.3 cN / dtex, a breaking elongation of 34.5%, and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 4.0%. Plying A with a filament number of 1300 T / m is used at the yarn feeders F3, F7, and F11 with polyester 84 decitex 36 filaments with strength 3.7 cN / dtex, elongation 18.9%, and boiling water shrinkage 4.0%. Plyed yarn B with a twist number of 1600 T / m is converted to F1, F5, F9, and polyester 84 decitex 36 filament processed yarn B with strength 3.7 cN / dtex, elongation 18.9%, and boiling water shrinkage rate 4.0%. , F2, F4, F6, F8, F10, F12 to make a raw machine of twill structure. The obtained raw machine was smelted at 80 ° C. using a continuous water-based relaxing / refining machine, then squeezed with a pin tenter and preset at 190 ° C. × 1 min. After that, 130 ℃ polyester dispersion dyeing is performed with a liquid flow dyeing machine, and after soaping, it is immersed in a water tank to which a fluorine-based water absorption processing agent is added and dehydrated with a mangle. I did a 1min final set and got the dough. The obtained fabric had a polyester 176 decitex 48 filament twisted yarn A54.7%, a polyester 84 decitex 36 filament twisted yarn B24.0%, a polyester 84 decitex 36 filament twisted yarn B21.3%, 48 courses / inch, and 45 wales. / Inch, grain size is 272 g / m 2 , average height Rc is 234 μm, number of frictions is 42500 times, snag is vertical 4th grade, horizontal 4th grade, initial water repellency is 4th grade, water repellency after wear is 3rd grade, washing After 30 times, the water repellency was grade 3 and the glare was ◯. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[実施例2]
福原精機28ゲージ33インチの丸編み機を用いて、図3に示すように、破断強度4.3cN/dtex、破断伸度34.5%、沸水収縮率4.0%のポリエステル加工糸176デシテックス48フィラメントで撚数が1600T/mの撚糸Aを、給糸口F3、F7、F11に、強度3.7cN/dtex、伸度18.9%、沸水収縮率4.0%のポリエステル84デシテックス36フィラメントで撚数が1600T/mの撚糸Bを、F1、F5、F9に、そして強度3.7cN/dtex、伸度18.9%、沸水収縮率4.0%のポリエステル84デシテックス36フィラメント加工糸Bを、F2、F4、F6、F8、F10、F12に供給して、ツイル組織の生機を作製した。得られた生機を連続式水系リラックス/精錬機を用いて80℃で精錬した後、ピンテンターにて巾だしして、190℃×1minでプレセットを行った。その後、液流染色機にて130℃ポリエステル分散染色を行いソーピング後、ポリエステル系吸水加工剤を添加した水槽に浸漬してマングルで脱水し、シワを取り除くため適度に生地を伸長させ、170℃×1minのファイナルセットを行い、生地を得た。得られた生地は、糸の重量混率がポリエステル176デシテックス48フィラメント撚糸A58.0%、ポリエステル84デシテックス36フィラメント撚糸B24.4%、ポリエステル84デシテックス36フィラメントB17.6%、50コース/インチ、45ウェール/インチ、目付は279g/m2、平均高さRcが274μm、摩擦回数は59000回、スナッグはタテ3−4級、ヨコ3−4級、初期吸水性は1秒、摩耗後の吸水性は5秒、洗濯30回後の吸水性は1秒、ぎらつきは○であった。結果を以下の表1に示す。
[Example 2]
Fukuhara Seiki Using a 28-gauge 33-inch circular knitting machine, as shown in FIG. 3, polyester processed yarn 176 decitex 48 with a breaking strength of 4.3 cN / dtex, a breaking elongation of 34.5%, and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 4.0%. Plying A with a filament number of 1600 T / m is used at the yarn feeders F3, F7, and F11 with polyester 84 decitex 36 filaments with strength 3.7 cN / dtex, elongation 18.9%, and boiling water shrinkage 4.0%. Plyed yarn B with a twist number of 1600 T / m is converted to F1, F5, F9, and polyester 84 decitex 36 filament processed yarn B with strength 3.7 cN / dtex, elongation 18.9%, and boiling water shrinkage rate 4.0%. , F2, F4, F6, F8, F10, F12 to make a raw machine of twill structure. The obtained raw machine was smelted at 80 ° C. using a continuous water-based relaxing / refining machine, then squeezed with a pin tenter and preset at 190 ° C. × 1 min. After that, polyester dispersion dyeing at 130 ° C is performed with a liquid flow dyeing machine, and after soaping, the fabric is immersed in a water tank to which a polyester-based water absorption processing agent is added and dehydrated with a mangle. I did a 1min final set and got the dough. The obtained fabric had a polyester 176 decitex 48 filament twisted yarn A58.0%, a polyester 84 decitex 36 filament twisted yarn B24.4%, a polyester 84 decitex 36 filament twisted yarn B17.6%, 50 courses / inch, and 45 wales. / Inch, grain size is 279 g / m 2 , average height Rc is 274 μm, number of frictions is 59000 times, snag is vertical 3-4 class, horizontal 3-4 class, initial water absorption is 1 second, water absorption after wear is The water absorption after 5 seconds and 30 times of washing was 1 second, and the glare was ◯. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[実施例3]
カールマイヤー社製28ゲージ130インチのトリコット機を用いて、図5に示すように、フロント筬に強度4.2cN/dtex、伸度30.6%、沸水収縮率2.6%のポリエステル加工糸56デシテックス24フィラメントBを、ミドル筬とバック筬に強度3.7cN/dtex、伸度18.9%、沸水収縮率4.0%のポリエステル加工糸84デシテックス36フィラメントAを用いて逆ハーフ組織の生機を作製した。得られた生機を実施例2と同様の方法で加工し生地を得た。得られた生地は糸の重量混率が、ポリエステル加工糸56デシテックス24フィラメントB27.1%、ポリエステル加工糸84デシテックス36フィラメントA72.8%(ミドル筬10.7%、バック筬62.2%)、54コース/インチ、36ウェール/インチ、目付は183g/m2、平均高さRcが135μm、摩擦回数は40000回、スナッグはタテ4級、ヨコ3級、初期吸水性は1秒、摩耗後の吸水性は2秒、洗濯30回後の吸水性は1秒、ぎらつきは△であった。結果を以下の表1に示す。
[Example 3]
As shown in FIG. 5, a polyester processed yarn having a strength of 4.2 cN / dtex, an elongation of 30.6%, and a boiling water shrinkage of 2.6% was used on a 28-gauge 130-inch tricot machine manufactured by Karl Meyer. 56 decitex 24 filament B was applied to the middle reed and back reed using polyester processed yarn 84 decitex 36 filament A having a strength of 3.7 cN / dtex, an elongation of 18.9%, and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 4.0%. A raw machine was made. The obtained raw machine was processed in the same manner as in Example 2 to obtain a dough. The obtained dough had a polyester processed yarn 56 decitex 24 filament B27.1%, a polyester processed yarn 84 decitex 36 filament A72.8% (middle reed 10.7%, back reed 62.2%), and a weight mixing ratio of the yarn. 54 courses / inch, 36 wales / inch, grain size is 183 g / m 2 , average height Rc is 135 μm, friction frequency is 40,000 times, snag is vertical 4th grade, horizontal 3rd grade, initial water absorption is 1 second, after wear The water absorption was 2 seconds, the water absorption after 30 times of washing was 1 second, and the glare was Δ. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[比較例1]
福原精機28ゲージ33インチの丸編み機を用いて、図3に示すように、ポリエステル短繊維とウール短繊維を混紡した番手1/80の糸Cを、給糸口F1、F2、F3、F5、F6、F7、F9、F10、F11に、強度3.1cN/dtex 、伸度29.3%、沸水収縮率4.1%のCD−PET加工糸84デシテックス48フィラメントで撚数1200T/mの撚糸Aを、F4、F8、F12に、そして強度4.2cN/dtex、伸度32.5%、沸水収縮率40.8%の共重合ポリエステル収縮糸33デシテックス12フィラメントDを、F12へ供給して、ツイル組織の生機を得た。ウールとポリエステルを両染めした以外は実施例1と同様の方法で加工し、生地を得た。得られた生地は糸の混率がウール/ポリエステル混紡1/80 Dが83.9%、CD-PET加工糸84デシテックス48フィラメント撚糸Aが12.0%、ポリエステル収縮糸33デシテックス12フィラメントBが4.1%、48コース/インチ、58ウェール/インチ、目付は285g/m2、平均高さRcが76.7μm、摩耗回数は19250回、スナッグはタテ3級、ヨコ3級、初期撥水4級、摩耗後の撥水性は2−3級、洗濯30回後の撥水性は2級、ぎらつきは○であった。結果を以下の表1に示す。
[Comparative Example 1]
As shown in Fig. 3, using a Fukuhara Seiki 28-gauge 33-inch circular knitting machine, yarn C with a count of 1/80, which is a blend of polyester short fibers and wool short fibers, is spun into yarn inlets F1, F2, F3, F5, and F6. , F7, F9, F10, F11, CD-PET processed yarn 84 decitex 48 filament with strength 3.1cN / dtex, elongation 29.3%, boiling water shrinkage 4.1%, twisted yarn A with twist number 1200T / m To F4, F8, F12, and to F12, a copolymerized polyester shrink yarn 33 decitex 12 filament D having a strength of 4.2 cN / dtex, an elongation of 32.5%, and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 40.8% was supplied. Obtained a raw material for twill tissue. A fabric was obtained by processing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that both wool and polyester were dyed. The obtained fabric has a wool / polyester blend 1/80 D of 83.9%, a CD-PET processed yarn 84 decitex 48 filament twisted yarn A of 12.0%, and a polyester shrink yarn 33 decitex 12 filament B of 4. .1%, 48 courses / inch, 58 wales / inch, grain size is 285 g / m 2 , average height Rc is 76.7 μm, number of wears is 19250 times, snag is vertical 3rd grade, horizontal 3rd grade, initial water repellency 4 The water repellency after grade and abrasion was 2-3 grade, the water repellency after 30 times of washing was grade 2, and the glare was ◯. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[比較例2]
福原精機32ゲージ33インチの編み機を用いて、図3に示すように、強度4.2cN/dtex、伸度30.6%、沸水収縮率2.6%のポリエステル加工糸56デシテックス24フィラメントAを、給糸口F3、F7、F11に、そして綿とキュプラを混紡した番手60/1の糸Cを、F1、F2、F4、F5、F6、F8、F9、F10、F12に供給して、ツイル組織の生機を作製した。得られた生機を実施例1と同様の方法で加工し、生地を得た。得られた生地は、糸の混率がポリエステル加工糸56デシテックス24フィラメントAが25.4%、綿・キュプラ混紡糸60/1 Dが78.6%、48コース/インチ、54ウェール/インチ、目付は192g/m2、平均高さRcは82.9μm、摩耗回数は18500回、スナッグはタテ2−3級、ヨコ2−3級、初期の撥水性は4級、摩耗後の撥水性は2−3級、洗濯30回後の撥水性は2級、ぎらつきは△であった。結果を以下の表1に示す。
[Comparative Example 2]
As shown in FIG. 3, a polyester processed yarn 56 decitex 24 filament A having a strength of 4.2 cN / dtex, an elongation of 30.6%, and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 2.6% was produced using a Fukuhara Seiki 32-gauge 33-inch knitting machine. , F3, F7, F11, and 60/1 yarn C, which is a blend of cotton and cupra, is supplied to F1, F2, F4, F5, F6, F8, F9, F10, F12 to make a twill structure. I made a raw machine of. The obtained raw machine was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a dough. The obtained fabric had a polyester processed yarn 56 decitex 24 filament A of 25.4%, a cotton / cupra blended yarn 60/1 D of 78.6%, 48 courses / inch, 54 wales / inch, and a grain. Is 192 g / m 2 , the average height Rc is 82.9 μm, the number of times of wear is 18,500 times, the snag is vertical 2-3 grade, horizontal 2-3 grade, the initial water repellency is 4 grade, and the water repellency after wear is 2. Grade -3, water repellency after 30 times of washing was grade 2, and glare was Δ. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[比較例3]
比較例3は、前記した従来技術の丸編地に実施例2と同様の方法で吸水加工を施したものである。
[Comparative Example 3]
In Comparative Example 3, the above-mentioned circular knitted fabric of the prior art is subjected to water absorption processing in the same manner as in Example 2.

Figure 2021139067
Figure 2021139067

本発明に係る学生服用編地を表地に用いれば、編物の欠点であるスナッグや耐摩耗性を向上させながら、ハリコシがあり、さらに染色加工時に付帯加工された撥水性または吸水性の耐久性が改善された学生服を得ることができる。 If the school uniform knitted fabric according to the present invention is used as the outer material, the knitted fabric has elasticity while improving the snag and abrasion resistance, which are the drawbacks of the knitted fabric, and the durability of water repellency or water absorption that is incidentally processed during the dyeing process is improved. You can get improved school uniforms.

Claims (11)

総繊度75dtex超220dtex以下、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが25重量%以上90重量%未満の混率で、かつ、合成繊維マルチフィラメントAの総繊度の1/3〜2/3の総繊度、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントBが10重量%超75重量%以下の混率で編成された、ループ密度35〜120コース/2.54cm、35〜70ウェール/2.54cmの編地であって、該編地の最表面(おもてめん)には、該合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが存在し、キーエンス社製ワンショット3D形状測定機VR−3000を用いて倍率12倍で該編地の表面(おもてめん)の線粗さをヨコ方向に長さ10mm測定するとき、輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcが120以上300以下であり、かつ、JIS L 1096 に規定するマーチンデール摩耗試験機を用いて押圧荷重9.0±0.2kPaで該編地の表面(おもてめん)を摩擦するとき、該表面(おもてめん)に存在する糸が破断するときの摩擦回数が30000回以上であり、かつ、該表面(おもてめん)に撥水加工が施され、JIS L 0217 103法に準じた洗濯30回後のJIS L 1092スプレー法による撥水性が3級以上であることを特徴とする学生服用編地。 Synthetic fiber multifilament A having a total fineness of more than 75 dtex and 220 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less has a mixing ratio of 25% by weight or more and less than 90% by weight, and 1 / of the total fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament A. A loop density of 35 to 120 courses / 2 in which synthetic fiber multifilament B having a total fineness of 3 to 2/3 and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less is knitted at a mixing ratio of more than 10% by weight and 75% by weight or less. It is a knitted fabric of .54 cm, 35 to 70 wales / 2.54 cm, and the synthetic fiber multifilament A is present on the outermost surface (front) of the knitted fabric, and has a one-shot 3D shape manufactured by Keyence. When the line roughness of the surface (Omotemen) of the knitted fabric is measured with a length of 10 mm in the horizontal direction using a measuring machine VR-3000 at a magnification of 12 times, the average height Rc of the contour curve element is 120 or more and 300. When the surface (Omotemen) of the knitted fabric is rubbed with a pressing load of 9.0 ± 0.2 kPa using the Martindale wear tester specified in JIS L 1096, the surface (Omotemen) is as follows. The number of times of friction when the thread existing in the motemen is broken is 30,000 times or more, and the surface (motemen) is water-repellent, and the washing 30 according to the JIS L 0217 103 method is applied. A knitted fabric for students that is characterized by having a water repellency of grade 3 or higher by the JIS L 1092 spray method after rotation. 総繊度75dtex超220dtex以下、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが25重量%以上90重量%未満の混率で、かつ、合成繊維マルチフィラメントAの総繊度の1/3〜2/3の総繊度、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントBが10重量%超75重量%以下の混率で編成された、ループ密度35〜120コース/2.54cm、35〜70ウェール/2.54cmの編地であって、該編地の最表面(おもてめん)には、該合成繊維マルチフィラメントAが存在し、キーエンス社製ワンショット3D形状測定機VR−3000を用いて倍率12倍で該編地の表面(おもてめん)の線粗さをヨコ方向に長さ10mm測定するとき、輪郭曲線要素の平均高さRcが120以上300以下であり、かつ、JIS L 1096 に規定するマーチンデール摩耗試験機を用いて押圧荷重9.0±0.2kPaで該編地の表面(おもてめん)を摩擦するとき、該表面(おもてめん)に存在する糸が破断するときの摩擦回数が30000回以上であり、かつ、該表面(おもてめん)に吸水加工が施され、JIS L 0217 103法に準じた洗濯30回後のJIS L 1907滴下法による吸水性が5秒以下であることを特徴とする学生服用編地。 Synthetic fiber multifilament A having a total fineness of more than 75 dtex and 220 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less has a mixing ratio of 25% by weight or more and less than 90% by weight, and 1 / of the total fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament A. A loop density of 35 to 120 courses / 2 in which synthetic fiber multifilament B having a total fineness of 3 to 2/3 and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less is knitted at a mixing ratio of more than 10% by weight and 75% by weight or less. It is a knitted fabric of .54 cm, 35 to 70 wales / 2.54 cm, and the synthetic fiber multifilament A is present on the outermost surface (front) of the knitted fabric, and has a one-shot 3D shape manufactured by Keyence. When the line roughness of the surface (Omotemen) of the knitted fabric is measured with a length of 10 mm in the horizontal direction using a measuring machine VR-3000 at a magnification of 12 times, the average height Rc of the contour curve element is 120 or more and 300. When the surface (Omotemen) of the knitted fabric is rubbed with a pressing load of 9.0 ± 0.2 kPa using the Martindale wear tester specified in JIS L 1096, the surface (Omotemen) is as follows. The number of frictions when the thread existing in the motemen is broken is 30,000 times or more, and the surface (motemen) is water-absorbent and washed 30 times according to the JIS L 0217 103 method. A knitted fabric for students, characterized in that the water absorption by the later JIS L 1907 dropping method is 5 seconds or less. 総繊度が50dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントDの混率が2重量%未満である、請求項1又は2に記載の学生服用編地。 The student-use knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the synthetic fiber multifilament D having a total fineness of 50 dtex or less has a mixing ratio of less than 2% by weight. 前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントAと前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントBはいずれも、仮撚加工されたポリエステル繊維である、請求項1〜3のいずれか1項に記載の学生服用編地。 The student-use knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein both the synthetic fiber multifilament A and the synthetic fiber multifilament B are false-twisted polyester fibers. 前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントAの破断強度が3.5cN/dtex以上であり、かつ、破断伸度が20%以上50%以下である、請求項1〜4のいずれか1項に記載の学生服用編地。 The student-use edition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the synthetic fiber multifilament A has a breaking strength of 3.5 cN / dtex or more and a breaking elongation of 20% or more and 50% or less. Ground. 前記編地は経編地であり、かつ、前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントAと前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントBはいずれも300〜1200T/mの撚糸である、請求項1〜5のいずれか1項に記載の学生服用編地。 The one according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the knitted fabric is a warp knitted fabric, and the synthetic fiber multifilament A and the synthetic fiber multifilament B are both twisted yarns of 300 to 1200 T / m. Student-use knitted fabric. 前記編地は丸編地であり、該編地の最表面(おもてめん)に、前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントAのニットループが存在し、かつ、該合成繊維マルチフィラメントAと前記合成繊維マルチフィラメントBはいずれも1300〜1900T/mの撚糸である、請求項1〜5のいずれか1項に記載の学生服用編地。 The knitted fabric is a circular knitted fabric, and a knit loop of the synthetic fiber multifilament A exists on the outermost surface (front side) of the knitted fabric, and the synthetic fiber multifilament A and the synthetic fiber mulch are present. The student-use knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the filament B is a twisted yarn of 1300 to 1900 T / m. ウール、ナイロン、アクリル、綿、キュプラ、及びレーヨンからなる群から選ばれる繊維Cを30重量%以下の混率でさらに含む、請求項1〜7のいずれか1項に記載の学生服用編地。 The student knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising a fiber C selected from the group consisting of wool, nylon, acrylic, cotton, cupra, and rayon in a mixing ratio of 30% by weight or less. 前記編地の表面(おもてめん)の、JIS L 1058 D−3法に準拠した15時間試験後のスナッグ性が3級以上である、請求項1〜8のいずれか1項に記載の学生服用編地。 The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the surface of the knitted fabric (Omotemen) has a snag property of grade 3 or higher after a 15-hour test in accordance with the JIS L 1058 D-3 method. Knitted fabric for student use. 以下の工程:
熱セット後に総繊度が75dtex超220dtex以下、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下となる合成繊維マルチフィラメントAと、合成繊維マルチフィラメントAの総繊度の1/3〜2/3の総繊度、単糸繊度1.5dtex以上5.0dtex以下の合成繊維マルチフィラメントBとを用いて編地を編成する工程;及び
得られた編地を熱セットする工程;
を含む、請求項1〜9のいずれか1項に記載の学生服用編地の製造方法。
The following steps:
Synthetic fiber multifilament A having a total fineness of more than 75 dtex and 220 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less after heat setting, and a total fineness of 1/3 to 2/3 of the total fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament A. , A step of knitting a knitted fabric using a synthetic fiber multifilament B having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less; and a step of heat-setting the obtained knitted fabric;
The method for producing a knitted fabric for student use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, which comprises.
請求項1〜9のいずれか1項に記載の学生服用編地の表面(おもてめん)を表地に用いた学生服。 A school uniform using the surface (Omotemen) of the school uniform knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9 as the outer material.
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