JP2020109074A - Composition for forming liquid crystal, liquid crystal-containing emulsifier, and liquid crystal-containing cosmetic that is creamy or film-like - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide: a composition that can be used to prepare a cosmetic of which constituent component residues cannot be observed when dispersed in a solvent, which can contain liquid crystals in a state in which the constituent components are melted uniformly, and which, when contained together with various types of film-forming polymers, stably holds the liquid crystal structure in a liquid state in a container and in the form of a film on the skin; and an emulsifier and a cosmetic that use the composition.SOLUTION: A composition for forming liquid crystals contains amphiphilic lipids, sterol, and straight-chain saturated fatty acids. A liquid crystal-containing emulsifier contains the composition and a solvent. A liquid crystal-containing cosmetic contains the emulsifier, a film-forming polymer, and water.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1B

Description

The present invention relates to a composition used for forming a liquid crystal, an emulsifier containing the liquid crystal using the composition, and a creamy or filmy cosmetic.

It is known that liquid crystal (LC) has a structure such as a lamella phase, a hexagonal phase, and a cubic phase. Materials with a liquid crystal structure are widely used in cosmetics and personal care products because of their cosmetic benefits.

Liquid crystals and gels with lamellar phases, especially those containing lipids similar in structure and properties to lamellar lipids between keratinocytes, have been shown to improve the hydration state of the skin due to their moisturizing and barrier functions. .. The amount of bound water between lamella layers and the nature and concentration of lipids contained in the lamella phase influence the effectiveness of moisturizing and barrier effects.

Lamellar liquid crystals applied in the cosmetic field are usually provided as droplet emulsions contained in gels, creams, lotions and the like. However, the lamellar liquid crystals formed in these cosmetics are concentrated and crystallized when the solvent is evaporated. Furthermore, it can be easily eliminated by mechanical shearing during the preparation of the cosmetic or the application to the skin.

If the lamellar liquid crystal droplets (lamellar lipids) in the cosmetic can be stably immobilized on the skin surface at a high concentration, a continuous sheet of lamellar lipids, that is, a liquid crystal film can be formed. The presence of the concentrated lamellar lipid aggregates forming such a liquid crystal film simultaneously brings sufficient moisturizing function and excellent film barrier function to the skin, which is very useful.

However, the realization of such continuous sheets of lamellar lipids in which lipids and water are concentrated as lamellar liquid crystal microdroplets has been achieved so far due to destabilization of lamellar lipid droplets during application to the skin. It has not been.

In the preparation of cosmetics containing lamellar liquid crystals, emulsifiers, mainly surfactants and polar lipids are used. However, surfactants indirectly cause skin irritation by breaking the lipid barrier of the skin. In addition, polar lipids are usually natural membrane lipids such as ceramide and sterols, and these have the problems of low solubility and high crystallinity.

As the liquid crystal forming emulsifier, for example, Patent Document 1 describes a liquid crystal forming emulsifier containing sterol, polyglycerin fatty acid ester and lecithin as essential components.

JP, 2010-280587, A

In Patent Document 1, by using the emulsifier described in Patent Document 1, a liquid crystal structure similar to inter-keratinocyte lipids is formed, and the liquid crystal structure is stably maintained even while being applied to the skin, and high skin care is achieved. There is a description that it is possible to produce a cosmetic that exerts an effect and is easily formulated.

However, according to a study conducted by the present inventors, it is extremely difficult to melt a mixture of sterol, polyglycerin fatty acid ester and lecithin, which are essential components of the emulsifier described in Patent Document 1, for example, However, there is a problem that even if an aqueous solution or an oily solvent is to be dispersed, a sterol residue or an agglomerate that is a precipitate of crystals continues to exist.

Further, in order to dissolve the mixture of sterol, polyglycerin fatty acid ester and lecithin, a large amount of higher alcohol must be used as described in the example of Patent Document 1. As a result, in order to obtain a cosmetic containing liquid crystal using the emulsifier described in Patent Document 1, a large amount of oily component must be contained, and the amount of water to be blended is limited. The problem arises.

When a cosmetic containing a liquid crystal is applied on the skin to form a liquid crystal film, it may be possible to incorporate a film-forming polymer in order to impart adhesiveness, elasticity and spreadability to the formed film. .. Many of the film-forming polymers used in such cosmetics are water-soluble, and in the cosmetic using the emulsifier described in Patent Document 1 in which the amount of water to be mixed is limited, such a water-soluble film is used. It is difficult to incorporate the forming polymer.

Looking at the examples of Patent Document 1, a large amount of a surfactant such as a higher alcohol is always used in the emulsifier described in Patent Document 1. This is in excess of ingredients such as lecithin and phytosterols. Such high amounts of surfactant can be irritating to the skin. Further, a cosmetic material containing a large amount of a surfactant such as higher alcohol may cause a problem that it remains white like soap when rubbed on the skin during application.

Further, as described in Examples described later, when a large amount of higher alcohol is added to an aqueous preparation, a hydrated crystal is formed and a gel network structure is built up, but with evaporation over time of the solvent and the like, crystals are formed. This may cause problems such as degrading and phase separation of the preparation.

Therefore, in the present invention, the residue due to the constituents cannot be observed by dispersing in the solvent, and the liquid crystal can be contained in a state where the constituents are uniformly melted, and further, it can be contained together with various film-forming polymers. The present invention provides a composition that can be used for preparing a cosmetic that stably holds a liquid crystal structure in a liquid state in a container and in a film shape on the skin, and an emulsifier and a cosmetic agent using the composition. This is the problem to be solved by the invention.

As a result of intensive research and development in order to solve the above problems, the present inventors have come to focus on a combination of three components of an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a natural membrane lipid of a linear saturated fatty acid. This combination of the three components can be melted by warming and, surprisingly, swelled with various aqueous and oily solvents so that no residue from the three components can be observed. It was found that a liquid crystal can be formed by.

Even more surprisingly, a cosmetic obtained by combining an emulsifier containing the above-mentioned three components and a solvent with various film-forming polymers exists in a liquid state in a container and stably retains a liquid crystal structure. At the same time, when it was applied on the skin, it existed in the form of a film and could stably maintain the liquid crystal structure.

For example, an emulsifier is prepared by using a composition containing the above-mentioned three components, further using an aqueous solvent as a solvent used when preparing an emulsifier, and using a water-soluble film-forming polymer as the film-forming polymer. By covering with a film-forming polymer, aggregation of lamella liquid crystal droplets due to evaporation and concentration of the solvent, shearing during application, destruction of liquid crystal due to mixing of sweat and sebum, etc. are prevented, and lamellar liquid crystal droplets similar to intercellular lipids are formed. It is possible to prepare a cosmetic that forms a film that is immobilized at a high concentration.

As a result, as a solution to the problems of the present invention, the present inventors provide a composition containing an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a linear saturated fatty acid, and an emulsifier and a cosmetic using the composition. I succeeded in creating it. The present invention has been completed based on the above findings and successful examples.

Therefore, according to one aspect of the present invention, the following compositions [1] to [11], emulsifiers, and cosmetics are provided.
[1] A liquid crystal-forming composition containing an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a linear saturated fatty acid.
[2] The composition according to [1], wherein the liquid crystal forming composition is in a solid state at 25°C.
[3] The amphipathic lipid is at least one amphipathic lipid selected from the group consisting of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide and phosphatidylcholine, according to any one of [1] to [2]. Composition.
[4] The composition according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the lecithin and the hydrogenated lecithin are lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin each having a phosphatidylcholine content of 20% by mass or more.
[5] Any of [1] to [4], in which the content of the amphipathic lipid is greater than the content of the sterol or the content of the linear saturated fatty acid. The composition according to item 1.
[6] Amphipathic lipid 38% by mass to 70% by mass, sterol 5% by mass to 40% by mass, linear saturated fatty acid 10% by mass to 45% by mass, and in a solid state at 25°C. A composition for forming a liquid crystal.
[7] A liquid crystal-containing emulsifier containing the composition according to any one of [1] to [6] and a solvent.
[8] The emulsifier according to [7], wherein the solvent is at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of water, polyhydric alcohols, alcohols, ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and vegetable oils.
[9] The emulsifier according to any one of [7] to [8], wherein the content of the solvent is 50% by mass to 90% by mass.
[10] At least one selected from the group consisting of the composition for liquid crystal formation according to any one of [1] to [6] and a polyhydric alcohol, alcohol, ester oil, silicone oil, hydrocarbon oil, and vegetable oil. A liquid crystal-containing cosmetic containing a seed solvent, a film-forming polymer, and water.
[11] The cosmetic according to [10], which has a film form when applied to the skin and has a water content of 50% or less and contains a stable liquid crystal phase.
According to one aspect of the present invention, the following compositions [A1] to [A9], emulsifiers and cosmetics are provided.
[A1] A liquid crystal-forming composition containing an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a linear saturated fatty acid.
[A2] The composition according to [A1], wherein the amphipathic lipid is at least one amphipathic lipid selected from the group consisting of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide and phosphatidylcholine.
[A3] The composition according to any one of [A1] to [A2], wherein the lecithin and the hydrogenated lecithin are lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin each having a phosphatidylcholine content of 20% by mass or more.
[A4] Any of [A1] to [A3], in which the content of the amphipathic lipid is greater than the content of the sterol, or is greater than the content of the linear saturated fatty acid. The composition according to item 1.
[A5] A liquid crystal-containing emulsifier containing the composition according to any one of [A1] to [A4] and a solvent.
[A6] The emulsifier according to [A5], wherein the solvent is a polyhydric alcohol or water.
[A7] A liquid crystal-containing cosmetic containing the emulsifier according to any one of [A5] to [A6], a film-forming polymer, and water.
[A8] The content of the emulsifier is 5% by mass to 20% by mass, the content of the film-forming polymer is 2% by mass to 10% by mass, and the content of the water is 80% by mass to. The cosmetic material according to [A7], which is 90% by mass.
[A9] The cosmetic has a cream-like form when the water content is 50% or more, or a film-like form when the water content is 50% or less, and contains a stable liquid crystal phase. ]-[A8] cosmetics of any one statement.

According to the composition, the emulsifier, and the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention, a liquid crystal material and a film-forming polymer that exhibit improved moisturizing ability, are highly biocompatible, and have an excellent feel to human skin. A composite film of The cosmetic material of one embodiment of the present invention forms a stable liquid crystal phase in a wide range of cosmetic solvents, and may further contain a mixture of structures and structures similar to intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum. By forming the composite film on the skin surface with the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention, the complete wettability of the liquid crystal component realized by the moisturizing lipid composite and the bound interlamellar water is guaranteed. In addition, the excellent barrier properties of the film can be simultaneously imparted to the skin. The desired moisturizing and barrier effects of the composite film are obtained synergistically with the liquid crystal component and the film component.

The cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention is topically applied to the skin to form a liquid crystal-containing film containing a large amount of a lamellar liquid crystal phase rich in humidity as a fine droplet dispersion. The composite film obtained by the cosmetic material of one embodiment of the present invention can have moisturizing properties, long-term wearability, permeability and luster, and is expected to be used as a cosmetic physical shielding material for keratin materials. it can.

FIG. 1A is an observation photograph of a polarizing microscope regarding liquid crystal forming properties in a cream state containing a large amount of water before skin application for the cosmetic material of Example 1 as described in Examples. FIG. 1B is an observation photograph of a liquid crystal forming property of a film of the cosmetic of Example 1 as described in Example, which was formed by spontaneous evaporation of water for 8 hours after skin application. .. FIG. 2A is a diagram showing the results of an X-ray small angle scattering analysis of a liquid crystal structure in a cream state containing a large amount of water before skin application for the cosmetic material of Example 1 as described in Examples. is there. FIG. 2B is a result of an X-ray small angle scattering analysis regarding a liquid crystal structure in a film formed by spontaneous evaporation of water for 8 hours after skin application for the cosmetic material of Example 1 as described in Example. FIG. FIG. 3 is a polarization microscope observation photograph relating to liquid crystal forming properties of the emulsifiers of Examples 13 to 14 and the emulsifier of Comparative Example 6 as described in the examples. FIG. 4A is a diagram showing the results of comparing the cosmetics of Example 1 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 with respect to the in vivo moisturizing properties as described in the Examples. FIG. 4B is a diagram showing the results of comparing the cosmetics of Example 11 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 5 with respect to the in vivo moisturizing properties as described in the Examples. FIG. 5: is a figure which shows the result of having compared the cosmetics of Example 1 with the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 regarding the occlusive property as described in the Examples. FIG. 6 is a diagram showing the results of comparing the cosmetics of Example 1 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 with respect to the adhesiveness as described in the examples.

Hereinafter, the details of the composition, the emulsifier, and the cosmetic, which are one aspect of the present invention, will be described, but the technical scope of the present invention is not limited only by the items of this item, and the present invention has the following objects. As long as it is achieved, various modes can be adopted.

Unless otherwise specified, each term used in the present specification has a meaning commonly used by those skilled in the art, and should not be interpreted as having an unreasonably limiting meaning. Further, the theories and speculations made in this specification are based on the knowledge and experience of the present inventors, and therefore the technical scope of the present invention is limited only by such theories and speculations. It is not something that will be done.

For example, the term "and/or" means any one of the listed related items, or any combination or all of two or more of the related items.

The "content" is synonymous with the concentration and means the ratio of the amount of the component to the total amount of the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic. In the present specification, unless otherwise specified, the unit of content means “mass% (wt %)”. However, the total content of the components does not exceed 100% by mass.

In the present specification, “to” in the numerical range is a range including numerical values before and after the numerical range, for example, “0 mass% to 100 mass%” is 0 mass% or more and 100 mass% or less. Means a range.

“(Meth)acrylic acid” is a general term that includes acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.

“Liquid crystal forming property” is a function of forming a lyotropic liquid crystal by swelling with a solvent.
The "stability of liquid crystal" is a function of causing a state in which the liquid crystal forming property can be confirmed in a container or a film formed when applied to the skin.
“Moisturizing property” is a function of retaining the amount of water in the stratum corneum of the skin.
“Occlusion” is a function of suppressing evaporation of water from the skin surface.
"Adhesiveness" is a function of adhering to the skin in a state of being spread in a film shape on the skin.
These characteristics can be evaluated and confirmed by the methods described in Examples described later.

The composition of one embodiment of the present invention contains at least a component of liquid crystal. The emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention has a liquid crystal structure by containing at least a component of liquid crystal and a solvent. The cosmetic according to one aspect of the present invention is a composition that swells liquid crystal constituents with a solvent and contains an emulsifier having a liquid crystal structure, a film-forming polymer, and water, so that when applied topically to the skin, it exfoliates. It is possible to form a film having a lamellar liquid crystal structure having a moisture retaining property and a barrier function.

[1. Composition]
The composition of one embodiment of the present invention contains at least an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a straight-chain saturated fatty acid as constituent components of liquid crystal (hereinafter, also referred to as liquid crystal component). The composition of one embodiment of the present invention only needs to contain a liquid crystal component, and need not contain a surfactant that causes skin irritation. In addition, since the liquid crystal component can be selected from natural components, it is possible to be compatible with the skin and form a structure and structure similar to the intercellular lipid in the stratum corneum.

The amphipathic lipid is not particularly limited as long as it is a lipid having a hydrophilic group and a lipophilic group in the molecule, and examples thereof include phospholipids, sphingolipids, glycolipids, etc. From the viewpoint of forming a structure, lecithin, hydrogenated (hydrogenated) lecithin, ceramide and phosphatidylcholine are preferable. As the amphipathic lipid, one type of the above-mentioned ones can be used alone, or two or more types can be used in combination. In addition, the amphipathic lipid may be a lyso form or the like in which the above-listed products are converted into a monoacyl form by enzymatic treatment or the like. However, the amphipathic lipid does not include sterols and linear saturated fatty acids.

The lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin are not particularly limited as long as they are commonly used in the cosmetics field, and examples thereof include soybean lecithin, egg yolk lecithin, hydrogenated soybean lecithin, hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin and the like. However, in order to form and maintain a stable liquid crystal structure of the emulsifier and the cosmetic obtained by using the composition of one embodiment of the present invention and the liquid crystal film formed by applying the cosmetic to the skin, lecithin and The hydrogenated lecithin has a phosphatidylcholine (PC) content of preferably 20% by mass or more, more preferably 35% by mass or more, and further preferably 50% by mass or more. Among lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin is more preferable.

Examples of commercial products of lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin include, for example, "LIPOID P75" (manufactured by H-Holstein), "Basis LP-20H" (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group), "Basis LS-60HR" (Nisshin Oilio). Group company), "NIKKOL Lecinol S-10" (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals), "NIKKOL Lecinol S-10EX" (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals), "NIKKOL Lecinol S-10E" (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals), "NIKKOL Lec". "S-10M" (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals), "Phospholipon (registered trademark) 80H" (manufactured by H-Holstein), "COATSOME NC-21" (manufactured by NOF CORPORATION), "COATSOME NC-61" (NOF CORPORATION) Manufactured) and the like, but are not limited thereto.

Ceramide is not particularly limited as long as it is a sphingolipid composed of sphingosine and a fatty acid. For example, ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 3B, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide 6, ceramide 6I, ceramide 6II and these And the like, and ceramide 3, ceramide 3B, ceramide 4, ceramide 6II, and mixtures thereof are preferable from the viewpoint of being the main lipid constituting the cell membrane of skin cells.

Examples of commercially available ceramides include "CERAMIDE 2" (manufactured by Croda Japan), "CERAMIDE I" (manufactured by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH), "CERAMIDE III" (manufactured by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH EMBCRAM). IIIB" (manufactured by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH), "CERAMIDE VI" (manufactured by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH), "CERAMIDE TIC-001" (manufactured by Takasago International Corporation), but not limited to these.

The sterol is not particularly limited as long as it is a compound having a structure having an OH group at the 3-position of the A ring of the steroid skeleton (cyclopentahydrophenanthrene) as a basic skeleton, for example, β-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol, Examples thereof include plant sterols (phytosterols) such as brassicasterol and ergosterol; animal sterols such as cholesterol, cholestanol, lanosterol and dehydrocholesterol; and sterols derived from microorganisms such as mycosterol and timosterol. The sterol may be a sterol ester in which any amino acid or fatty acid is bonded to the OH group of sterol such as di(octyldodecyl/phytosteryl/behenyl) lauroylglutamate, cholesteryl oleate, and macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl. The sterol may be a naturally occurring compound or a synthetic compound, and may be one that has been subjected to a treatment such as hydrogenation for stabilization, but it is safe for the skin and stably forms a liquid crystal. From this point of view, naturally-derived ones are preferable, and phytosterols are more preferable.

Examples of commercially available sterols include, for example, "phytosterol (QI)" (manufactured by Tama Biochemical), "phytosterol (SKP)" (manufactured by Tama Biochemical), "phytosterol" (manufactured by Eisai Food Chemical Co., Ltd.), Cholesterol JSQI" (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.), "Japanese Pharmacopoeia Cholesterol" (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.), "Eldu PS-203" and "Eldu PS-306" (each manufactured by Ajinomoto Healthy Supply Co., Ltd.), "Kairei". Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, “Marine cholesterol ester” and “Marine cholesterol ester C” (each manufactured by Nippon Suisan Kaisha, Ltd.) and “Planool ^™ -MAS” (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.).

The linear saturated fatty acid is not particularly limited as long as it is a carboxylic acid having a linear alkyl group, and examples thereof include acetic acid, butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid. , Arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, etc., and a linear saturated fatty acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms is preferable from the viewpoint of stably forming a liquid crystal.

In the composition of one embodiment of the present invention, the content of amphipathic lipid, sterol and linear saturated fatty acid is not particularly limited, the content of amphipathic lipid is more than the content of sterol, or linear It is preferably higher than the content of saturated fatty acids; more preferably higher than the content of sterols and higher than the content of straight chain saturated fatty acids; More preferably, it is greater than the total amount. When the content of the amphipathic lipid becomes smaller than the content of the sterol and/or the linear saturated fatty acid, the emulsifier obtained by dissolving the composition of one embodiment of the present invention in the solvent should contain the liquid crystal stably. May not be possible.

The content of the amphipathic lipid in the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is, for example, 38% by mass to 70% by mass, preferably 40% by mass to 60% by mass, and more preferably about 55% by mass. is there. When the amphipathic lipid is lecithin and/or hydrogenated lecithin, when the PC content of these is low, the content of the amphipathic lipid is increased, and when the PC content is high, the amphipathic lipid is The lipid content may be reduced.

The content of sterol in the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is, for example, 5% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 30% by mass, and more preferably about 25% by mass. The content of the linear saturated fatty acid in the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is, for example, 10% by mass to 45% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 30% by mass, more preferably about 20% by mass. is there. The relationship between the sterol content and the linear saturated fatty acid content is not particularly limited, but in order to form a stable liquid crystal using the composition of one embodiment of the present invention, the sterol content is not directly related to the sterol content. It is preferable that the content of the chain saturated fatty acid is about the same.

The content of the amphipathic lipid, the sterol, and the linear saturated fatty acid in the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is the above amount, but the amphipathic lipid, the sterol in the composition of one embodiment of the present invention And the ratio of the content of the linear saturated fatty acid (amphipathic lipid:sterol:linear saturated fatty acid) is preferably 40 to 60:20, which is similar to the composition ratio of the intercellular lipid in the stratum corneum. It is more preferably ˜30:10 to 25, more preferably 55:25:20, but not limited to these. The content of the amphipathic lipid is preferably more than 10% by mass, and more than 20% by mass with respect to the content of the sterol and/or the content of the linear saturated fatty acid. Is more preferable, and the amount is more preferably more than 30% by mass.

The composition of one embodiment of the present invention is an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a straight chain, as long as they do not prevent the solution of the problems of the present invention, that is, as long as they have a liquid crystal forming property and do not generate a residue due to a constituent component. In addition to saturated fatty acids, other ingredients may be included. Examples of the other components include other components that can be contained in the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention described below. However, since the composition of one aspect of the present invention is used for preparing cosmetics, it is preferable that the composition be made of a natural component, and it is more preferable not to include a skin-irritating surfactant or the like. More preferably, it consists only of amphipathic lipids, sterols and linear saturated fatty acids.

The composition of one embodiment of the present invention can be prepared by stirring and mixing the amphipathic lipid, the sterol and the linear saturated fatty acid, and optionally other components while heating. When the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is cooled from a heated state to 25° C. or lower, it usually becomes a solid state.

[2. emulsifier]
By swelling or dispersing the composition of one embodiment of the present invention in a solution or solid form with a solvent, the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention containing a stable liquid crystal structure can be obtained.

The solvent used to obtain the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a solvent usually used for preparing cosmetics, and examples thereof include water and polyhydric alcohols (glycerin, BG, PG), alcohol (ethanol etc.), ester oil, silicone oil, hydrocarbon oil (paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalene, squalane, etc.), vegetable oil (jojoba oil, macadamia nut seed oil, sesame oil, etc.) and the like. From the viewpoint that a film obtained by applying a cosmetic obtained using the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention to the skin stably forms a liquid crystal structure similar to intercorneal lipids, that is, a lamellar liquid crystal structure. Then, polyhydric alcohol or water is preferable.

The content of the solvent in the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a sufficiently large amount with respect to the composition of one embodiment of the present invention, and is, for example, 50% by mass to 90% by mass, 60 Mass% to 80 mass% is preferable, 65 mass% to 70 mass% is more preferable, and about 67 mass% is still more preferable. When the content of the solvent is less than 50% by mass, the composition of one embodiment of the present invention may not be uniformly swollen and dispersed, and good liquid crystal forming property may not be recognized.

The method for preparing the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited, and for example, heating and stirring until the composition of one embodiment of the present invention and the solvent are homogenized to the extent that the contained liquid crystal structure is not lost. By further cooling to room temperature, the liquid crystal component is uniformly dispersed in the solvent, whereby the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention can be obtained. The form of the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may vary depending on the lipid composition based on the type and content ratio of the liquid crystal component and the solvent used. For example, a creamy product such as viscous peanut butter or Examples include a fluid paste.

The liquid crystal in the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention can be confirmed by a method for evaluating the liquid crystal forming property using Polarizing Optical Microscopy (POM) described in Examples described later, or the like. It may be confirmed by a technique known in the art such as calorimetry (Differential Scanning Calorimetry; DSC) and X-ray diffraction (X-Ray Diffraction; XRD).

Since the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention is one in which the liquid crystal component in the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is dispersed in a solvent to form a liquid crystal, it can be said that the liquid crystal is a lyotropic liquid crystal. For details of the definition of lyotropic liquid crystal and its phase behavior (stability), reference can be made to documents such as “Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications”.

Generally, a lyotropic liquid crystal phase refers to an association formed by amphiphilic molecules in a solvent system at a certain temperature. Amphipathic molecules such as surfactants and membrane lipids often consist of polar head groups attached to one or more non-polar chains. When such amphipathic molecules are dissolved in a solvent such as water, they form an association in which the polar (hydrophilic) head protects the non-polar (hydrophobic) tail. For example, in excess solvent, amphipathic molecules form spherical aggregates known as micelles, which, upon concentration (by solvent evaporation or an increase in their concentration), usually result in a shape, structure or optical difference from the micelles. Form an aggregate with characteristics. These aggregates contain a hexagonal liquid crystal phase and the amphipathic molecules form a columnar structure that is packed in a hexagonal array. The lamellar liquid crystal phase appears at higher amphiphile concentrations and the amphipathic molecules form a bilayer structure. In addition to solvent and concentration effects, temperature can dramatically affect the formation and stability of lyotropic liquid crystal phases. For example, when a lyotropic liquid crystal phase is cooled to a certain temperature below the Kraft point (Kp), a phase transition often occurs and a gel phase appears. The formation of liquid crystal or gel phases is also found in cosmetics, and their control of phase transitions serves to maintain the physical properties of the cosmetic, including fluidity and stability.

A cosmetic containing a liquid crystal is obtained by stirring and mixing the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention and the components usually used for preparation of cosmetics without a high load. At this time, by containing the film-forming polymer and water together with the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention, a cosmetic capable of forming a film having a lamellar liquid crystal structure by applying to the skin can be obtained. That is, the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention is a liquid crystal-containing cosmetic containing at least the emulsifier of one aspect of the present invention, a film-forming polymer, and water. By using an oily component as a solvent to prepare a cosmetic with a large amount of oil, a cosmetic capable of forming a film having a hexagonal liquid crystal structure on the skin can be obtained.

[3. Cosmetics]
The cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention can be a creamy oil-in-water emulsion in which liquid crystal microdroplets of about 10 μm to 30 μm are stably dispersed in water, but the form of the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention is It is not limited to this. The cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention may be white in a cream state and have high viscosity, but forms a film when applied on the skin and excess water evaporates. The composite film formed on the skin does not become sticky, is semitransparent, and has a reduced gloss, so that the composite film does not feel uncomfortable on the skin.

The cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention not only stabilizes the liquid crystal but also provides a synergistic moisturizing effect by containing the film-forming polymer. Further, the film formed by applying the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention on the surface of the skin imparts the blocking effect. The interaction between the film-forming polymer and the liquid crystal in the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention prevents fusion and crystallization of the liquid crystal during the natural evaporation process in film formation, and further increases the amount of water that can be held in the film. Therefore, the water resistance of the film can be improved. By blending liquid crystal as a filler for the polymer film, the adhesion to the skin is improved, and long-term adhesion to the skin and high water occluding property can be realized.

In the cosmetic according to one aspect of the present invention, the content of the emulsifier according to one aspect of the present invention is particularly preferably an amount in which the liquid crystal forming property can be confirmed in the cosmetic and in the film obtained by applying the cosmetic to the skin. Although not limited, it is, for example, 2% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 5% by mass to 20% by mass. In the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention, the content of the composition of one aspect of the present invention is, for example, 1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably It is 2% by mass to 5% by mass. When the content of the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is not within these ranges, it is possible to maintain a stable liquid crystal structure in the film formed by applying the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention to the skin. It can be difficult.

The cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention contains a film-forming polymer. The film-forming polymer is not particularly limited as long as it has a function of forming and retaining a film-like film on the skin (a film-forming function) when a cosmetic is applied to the skin, and a naturally-occurring one However, it may be one obtained by synthesis, a mixture thereof, or any of them. However, in order to form a lamellar phase composed of a naturally-derived component on the skin by using the naturally-derived component as the liquid crystal component, the film-forming polymer is preferably a naturally-derived polymer, which is known as a biopolymer. It is more preferable that the

Specific examples of naturally-occurring film-forming polymers include hyaluronate (acetylated sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium carboxymethyl hyaluronate, etc.), tuberose polysaccharide, chitosan (hydroxypropyl chitosan, chitofilmer, etc.), Sugar chain polymer and galactan (galactomannan, sulfated galactan), suisendinori polysaccharide, cellulose (carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, etc.), alginate (propylene glycol alginate), pullulan, carrageenan, starch derivative (glycosyltrehalose, hydrous) decomposition hydrogenated starch), etc. vegetable heteropolysaccharide (Hosobasen'na (cassia angustifolia) seed polysaccharides), such as collagen (marine collagen), but like tamarind gum and the like, are not particularly limited. The naturally-occurring film-forming polymers may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

Specific examples of the film-forming polymer that is a synthetic product include, for example, silicone-modified polysaccharides (trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, "TSPL-30-ID" (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), etc.), silicone rubber and resin ( Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, "KF-9021", "KF-7312J", "X-21-5250L", "X-21-5616" (each manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), silicone elastomer (polysilicone 11 etc.) ), acrylate copolymer (acrylate/VA copolymer, etc.), poly(meth)acrylic acid ((meth)acrylic acid/alkyl (meth)acrylate (C10-30) crosspolymer, etc.), polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), polyvinylpyrrolidone ( PVP, polyether (highly polymerized polyethylene glycol, etc.), copolymer of 2-methacryloyloxyethylphosphorylcholine and n-butyl methacrylate (polyquaternium-51, etc.), polyolefin (ethylene/octene copolymer, ethylene/sodium acrylate) But not limited thereto. The film-forming polymer that is a synthetic product may be used alone or in combination of two or more kinds such as those mentioned above.

The content of the film-forming polymer in the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it can exhibit the film-forming function, but is, for example, 1% by mass to 15% by mass, and preferably 2% by mass. % To 10% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 8% by mass. When the content of the film-forming polymer is less than 1% by mass, even if the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention is applied to the skin, a film-like film is not formed, or shape stability such as tearing or peeling is formed. The film may be poor.

In addition to the naturally-occurring film-forming polymer, it is also possible to use a synthetic film-forming polymer. However, it is preferable that the biopolymer is preferentially blended in order to improve the stability of the liquid crystal, the self-sustaining property of the film, and the moisture retention property.

By adding a polymer that functions as a gelling agent together with a film-forming polymer, it imparts gel characteristics (thickening) to the film formed on the skin, or improves stimulus responsiveness such as humidity responsiveness. And the like. Examples of the polymer that functions as a gelling agent include xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and the content thereof is about 0.1% by mass to 0.5% by mass. Further, in order to improve the flexibility of the film and the durability of the skin surface, a plasticizer such as polyhydric alcohol or polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside may be contained. The content of the plasticizer is preferably about 2% by mass to 10% by mass.

The content of water in the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as an oil-in-water cosmetic is obtained, but is, for example, 70% by mass to 95% by mass, and preferably 80% by mass. % To 90 mass %. In the cosmetic according to one aspect of the present invention, the liquid crystal component forms a columnar liquid crystal phase as a stable microdroplet emulsion and is stably retained (water content of the cosmetic is 50% by mass or more). In addition, when the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention is applied to the skin and water or other solvent is evaporated under high-concentration conditions (the water content of the cosmetic is 50% by mass or less), the liquid crystal component becomes a polymer. A liquid crystal film containing a lamellar liquid crystal phase is formed as a stable microdroplet dispersion in a film (solid) matrix.

In general, intercellular lipids with a lamellar structure of the stratum corneum are deformable due to the properties of the liquid crystals, which allow them to slide on each other when sheared, thus imparting elasticity and flexibility to the skin ( Progress in Lipid Research 42, 1-36 (2003)). Intercellular lipids that adopt a lamellar structure prevent excessive transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by first limiting the movement of water through the stratum corneum, and water-soluble compounds (NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor; (Moisturizing factor)) plays an important barrier function, effectively preventing the exudation of keratinocytes (see Dermatologic Therapy 17, 6-15 (2004)). In addition, intercellular lipids act as a physical barrier to environmental damage such as pollutants and harmful solar radiation.

The liquid crystal film formed on the skin by the cosmetic according to one embodiment of the present invention has a continuous structure due to the condensation of a plurality of lamellar liquid crystal droplets using a naturally-occurring membrane lipid as a component, and forms a stratum corneum. Can resemble the structure or structure found in the intercellular lipids of. From this, the liquid crystal film formed on the skin by the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention can exhibit the same moisturizing function and barrier function as the intercellular lipid, and further the function of protecting the skin that is acceptable to the cosmetic.

The pH of the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is within the range of the pH of the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic as is generally known, but is, for example, 5 to 9, and preferably 6 to. 8 When the pH value is out of the range of 5 to 9, it is difficult to stably maintain the liquid crystal, and it may be difficult to form a stable polymer film.

The cosmetics of one aspect of the present invention are not particularly limited in their functions and effects as long as they are used as cosmetics. The cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention has a stability of liquid crystal, for example, by testing the stability of the liquid crystal in the container and/or on the skin described in Examples described later, maltase cloth can be observed, and It is preferable that the precipitation of crystals and the insoluble matter of sterol cannot be observed.

A more specific aspect of the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention is that the amphipathic lipid is 0.5% by mass to 5.0% by mass, the sterol is 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass, and the linear saturated Contains 0.1% by mass to 2.25% by mass of fatty acid, 2% by mass to 15% by mass of polyhydric alcohol, 2% by mass to 10% by mass of film-forming polymer, and 80% by mass to 90% by mass of water. However, the oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic is excellent in stability of the liquid crystal in the container and/or on the skin, but is not limited thereto.

The cosmetic material of one embodiment of the present invention and the composite liquid crystal film formed on the skin surface by the cosmetic material of one embodiment of the present invention have various advantages. The merits enjoyed by these are listed below, but the technical scope of the present invention is not limited only by the presence or absence of these merits.
(1) Even when the cosmetic contains a large amount of low-solubility lipid (for example, 30% by mass with respect to the total amount of lipid), -10°C to 50°C without aggregation (droplet fusion) or crystallization. It can be kept stable within the temperature range of about 1 month.
(2) Under the ambient conditions (temperature: 25° C., relative humidity: 50%), cosmetics are allowed to spontaneously evaporate the solvent and other volatile substances without applying special dehydration treatment or other film forming technology. Can easily form a continuous film on the skin.
(3) The composite liquid crystal film is an adhesive film that is rich in water and lipid and that contains a plurality of dispersed lamellar liquid crystal droplets. The dispersed liquid crystal droplets are unlikely to cause problems such as liquid crystal phase transition due to mechanical friction, droplet coalescence, and lipid crystallization.
(4) The composite liquid crystal film has biocompatibility and air permeability depending on the contained components, and is safe and can be peeled off as a self-supporting sheet without damaging the skin surface. It is possible to store the peeled free-standing sheet under ambient conditions (temperature: 25°C, relative humidity: 50%) for more than 3 months without decomposing liquid crystal droplets (lamellar lipids) embedded in the peeled sheet. Is.
(5) When the film-forming polymer is a water-soluble polymer, the composite liquid crystal film can be removed by washing with excess water.
(6) The composite liquid crystal film has a moist feeling, a cold feeling, and a light tactile sensation, and can prevent discomfort during use.
(7) In the composite liquid crystal film, the dispersed lamella liquid crystal droplets functioned as a reinforcing filler for the polymer film, and synergistically improved the moisturizing property, the adhesiveness to the skin and the blocking property, and the glossiness. Can be something.
(8) The composite liquid crystal film can be made transparent or semitransparent as desired, and its transparency can be controlled by, for example, changing the droplet size of the liquid crystal dispersion. Besides transparency, the glossiness of the composite liquid crystal film can be controlled by changing the concentration of the lipid component, and the dispersed liquid crystal droplets can suppress the excessive gloss of the polymer film.
(9) The composite liquid crystal film is a durable moisturizing film that can be adhered for a long time. As described in Examples below, the composite liquid crystal film keeps the skin in a moist state while being stably adhered for 8 hours or more. obtain.
(10) The composite liquid crystal film can also be used as a skin straightener and a concealer for improving deteriorated skin properties.
(11) The composite liquid crystal film can be powdered and colored with powders and pigments usually used in cosmetics.
(12) The composite liquid crystal film has a cosmetically acceptable physical property against airborne dust, ash, particulate matter (PM), debris, microorganisms, pollutants such as pollen, and other harmful environmental factors. It can be used as a mechanical shield.
(13) The various functions, actions and effects obtained by the composite liquid crystal film are synergistically obtained by both the liquid crystal component and the film-forming polymer, and are difficult to achieve by the individual components.
(14) The thickness of the composite liquid crystal film is not particularly limited, but is, for example, about 100 μm to 200 μm. When the water content of the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention is 86% by mass, when about 1.0 g of the cosmetic is applied onto the skin of a person having healthy skin, an area of about 8×3 cm ² is obtained. A film is formed in the area by spreading evenly and then naturally drying under ambient conditions (temperature: 25° C., relative humidity: 50%) for about 10 minutes.
(15) The natural membrane lipid contained in the complex liquid crystal film is carried in the lamellar liquid crystal droplets having the same structure as the intercellular lipid.
(16) The water content of the composite liquid crystal film is confirmed by DSC measurement, and the water content of the liquid crystal droplets (as binding interlayer water) is confirmed by XRD measurement. As a result, the composite liquid crystal film has a higher water content (at least 40% by mass) than the water content of the stratum corneum (about 10 to 20%), and the water content of the liquid crystal droplets is higher than that of the composite liquid crystal film. Therefore, by applying the composite liquid crystal film on the skin, a water gradient system for supplying water to the skin can be realized.
(17) Continuous hydration of the skin area covered by the composite liquid crystal film can be achieved by a water gradient system together with the membrane occluding force to re-capture the water lost from the skin due to transepidermal water loss etc. And can be further stored in the composite liquid crystal film.
(18) In the complex liquid crystal film, the skin hydration state is well controlled by the complex liquid crystal film, and neither hyperhydration nor dehydration occurs easily. This is due to the water gradient system and water responsiveness of the composite liquid crystal film, allowing a reversible swelling behavior to control the water content of the film without compromising the integrity and performance of the skin surface.
(19) In the composite liquid crystal film, desired functions of the dispersed lamellar liquid crystal phase, such as cleanliness, optical properties, sustained release of inclusions, or moisturizing properties, can be amplified in a condensed film state. This is due to the presence of many aggregates of lamellar liquid crystal droplets, which are stably embedded in the film, each droplet being provided by an active substance that imparts the desired function. Further, since the composite liquid crystal film contains many aggregates of lamellar liquid crystal droplets, the homogeneity of the film (distribution of the active substance in the solid film) does not matter in particular. Also, because the film is in physical contact with a large surface area of the skin or the dispersion of liquid crystal droplets can have a larger surface area, the cosmetic or liquid crystal effect can be maximized and delivered equally.

The cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention may contain other components. Other components are not particularly limited as long as they do not prevent the solution of the problems of the present invention, and include, for example, colorants and pigments, fragrances, powders, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-skin atrophy agents, cell activating agents, and anti-staining agents. Agents, antibacterial agents and antiseptics, emollients, moisturizers and texture improvers, surfactants, emulsifiers, oil-soluble conditioning agents, thickening polymers, antioxidants, gelling agents, ingredients that give firmness and elasticity, whitening Agents, anti-inflammatory agents, cooling agents, warming agents, chelating agents, pH adjusting agents, inorganic salts and inorganic substances, UV absorbers and UV scattering agents, sunscreens, wound healing agents, vitamins and vitamin derivatives, peeling agents and polishing agents Agents, absorbents, antibiotics, anticoagulants, biological additives, bleach activators, chemical additives, cleansers, deodorants, enzymes, opacifiers, oxidants, buffers, plasticizers, radical scavengers, Skin penetration enhancer, stabilizer, cosmetic ingredient, plant extract, antiperspirant, insect repellent, anti-acne agent, disinfectant, skin sedative, skin barrier repair aid, skin repair agent, lipid, sebum suppressant , Antipruritic agents, agents for inhibiting hair growth, anti-glycation agents, wetting agents, light scattering agents and other optical components. The other components may be used alone or in combination of two or more as described above. The content of other components is not particularly limited, but is, for example, about 0% by mass to 10% by mass.

The cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention can provide moisturizing properties and occlusive properties by itself, but by containing an active ingredient, it can impart an additional function to the skin to which it is applied. Additional functions are not particularly limited, for example, hydrating the skin, smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, cosmetic treatment of acne, skin tightening (firming), skin softening, active substances to the skin, etc. Penetration of skin, cleansing the skin, removing old stratum corneum, makeup remover, makeup base film, improving or smoothing skin tone and texture, skin concealer ring and coloring, skin conditioning, Decrease pores, absorb and control secretions, protect skin, refresh and cool skin, reduce inflammation, reduce shock, cleanse, fragrance, reduce bacterial growth, unwanted hair Removal of insects, insect repellent, stains (pollutants) and makeup residue removal. The composite liquid crystal film formed on the skin by the cosmetic according to one aspect of the present invention can be used for hydrating the skin, protecting the skin from environmental damage, and cosmetically improving the physical appearance. ..

The site to which the cosmetic material according to one embodiment of the present invention is applied is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include face (forehead, eye area, eyes, cheek, mouth area, etc.), arm, elbow, back of hand, fingertip, foot, knee, heel, neck, Armpits, back, scalp, hair, etc.

The use form and dosage form of the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention are not particularly limited, and examples thereof include skin care cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, fragrance cosmetics, body care cosmetics, and the like, and more specifically creams and emulsions. , Foundation, lotion, beauty essence, all-in-one gel, sunscreen gel, lotion, pack, mask, point mask, patch, face cleansing cream, hand cream, makeup cleansing, makeup base, concealer, blusher, eye shadow, eyeliner, Examples include eyebrow, lipstick, sunscreen cream, hair removal and hair removal cream. However, the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention can be used as a raw material (intermediate raw material) when manufacturing other cosmetics.

The method for preparing the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited, and for example, heating is performed to such an extent that the contained liquid crystal structure is not lost, the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention, a film-forming polymer and water, and The liquid crystal component is dispersed uniformly by optionally mixing other components with stirring and the like to obtain the cosmetic material of one embodiment of the present invention.

The cosmetic material according to one embodiment of the present invention forms a liquid crystal film when applied to the skin, which makes it possible to prevent water evaporation from the skin surface, improve dry skin, or worsen by further drying. Can be suppressed. As another aspect of the present invention, the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention is topically applied to the skin, thereby comprising at least a step of forming a liquid crystal film, preferably a liquid crystal film having a lamellar liquid crystal structure, the skin A method of forming a liquid crystal film above is provided.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically by way of examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples, and the present invention can take various aspects as long as the problems of the present invention can be solved. it can.

[1. Preparation of test sample]
(1-1) Emulsifiers and cosmetics of Examples 1 to 12 According to the formulations shown in Table 1, the emulsifiers and cosmetics of Examples 1 to 12 were prepared by the following procedure. In addition, the content of hydrogenated lecithin in the table represents the addition amount of "Basis LS-60HR" (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group; phosphatidylcholine (PC) content rate: 65 to 75%) as a raw material. The content of lecithin in the table represents the addition amount of "LIPOID P75" (manufactured by H-Holstein Co., Ltd.) as a raw material. The content of ceramide in the table represents the addition amount of "Ceramide VI" (manufactured by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH) as a raw material.

Phase A in the table was prepared by mixing each component by heating and manual stirring so as to uniformly melt. Phase B was added to the prepared phase A, and the mixture was heated and mixed until it became uniform to prepare creamy emulsifiers of Examples 1 to 12.

Phase C in which each component was separately dissolved was added to the emulsifiers of Examples 1 to 12 and mixed by warming and manual stirring until uniform. The obtained mixture of the emulsifier and the phase C was cooled to room temperature to prepare the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 12.

(1-2) Cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 5 According to the formulations shown in Table 1, the components of phase B and phase C were mixed by heating and manual stirring so as to be uniformly dissolved, The cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 5 were prepared.

(1-3) Emulsifiers and cosmetics of Comparative Examples 2 to 4 According to the formulations shown in Table 1, the emulsifiers and cosmetics of Comparative Examples 2 to 4 were prepared according to the procedure of (1-1). ..

(1-4) Emulsifiers of Examples 13 to 14 and Emulsifier of Comparative Example 6 According to the formulation shown in Table 1, according to the procedure of (1-1) above, creamy emulsifiers of Examples 13 to 14 and comparisons were made. The emulsifier of Example 6 was prepared.

For the ingredients marked with * in the table, the following were used:
Decaglyceryl monostearate: "NIKKOL Decagrin 1-SV" (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals)
Phytosterol: "Phytosterol (QI)" (manufactured by Tama Seikagaku)
Lauroyl glutamate di (octyldodecyl/phytosteryl/behenyl): "Eldu PS-306" (manufactured by Ajinomoto Healthy Supply Co.)
Cholesteryl oleate, cholesterol: "Marine cholesterol ester C" (manufactured by Nippon Suisan)
Hyaluronic Acid Na: “Hyaluronic Sun Liquid HA-LQ1” (Kewpie)
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate: "Sodium acetylated hyaluronate" (made by Shiseido Co., Ltd.)
Hypromellose and methylcellulose: "METOLOSE (registered trademark) 90SH-4000" (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside: "Glucam E-10" (manufactured by Lubrizol)
(Acrylates/alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) Crosspolymer: "Pemulen ^™ EZ-4U" (manufactured by Lubrizol)
Polyvinyl alcohol: "Gothenol EG-40C" (manufactured by Nippon Synthetic Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)

[2. Evaluation method]
(2-1) Liquid Crystal Formability At room temperature, the test sample was thinly spread on a slide glass, covered with a cover glass, and then observed with a polarizing microscope (“BX41-P”; 40× magnification; manufactured by OLYMPUS). The maltase cloth, the precipitation of crystals, and the insoluble matter of sterol in Example 2 were observed and classified according to the following criteria, and those evaluated as “⊚” were evaluated as having a liquid crystal forming property.

"A": Maltase cross was observable, and crystal precipitation and sterol insoluble matter could not be observed "X": Maltase cross could not be observed "△": Crystal precipitation was observed Item "□": phytosterol residue was observed

(2-2) Liquid Crystal Stability in Container The test sample was put in a screw tube and stored at room temperature for 1 month, and then evaluated by the liquid crystal forming property of (2-1).

(2-3) Stability of liquid crystal on skin A film formed by applying the test sample on the skin was peeled off from the skin 8 hours after the application. The obtained film was placed on a slide glass and covered with a cover glass, and then the liquid crystal formability was evaluated in the same manner as in (2-1) above.

(2-4) Liquid Crystal Structure Regarding a test sample and a film formed by applying the test sample on the skin, an X-ray small angle scattering analysis was performed by using the X-ray diffractometer (“NANO Viewer”; manufactured by Rigaku) according to the following procedure. Then, the structure of the liquid crystal was confirmed and evaluated.

For the creamy test sample before applying to the skin, the glass capillary (φ=3 mm) was directly filled, the test sample was applied to the skin, and the film obtained after air-drying for about 8 hours in a room temperature environment was used. After peeling from the skin and cutting into small pieces, the pieces were filled in a glass capillary (φ=3 mm). Small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) was measured at room temperature for all test samples. The SAXS diffractometer was operated with Cu-Ka radiation at λ = 1.541Å and the intensity of the diffracted X-rays from the sample was recorded as a function of 2θ. Here, 2θ and λ represent the scattering angle and wavelength of the X-ray beam, respectively. For analysis of the liquid crystal structure contained in the test sample, d-spacing was calculated using Bragg's law (d 2 =λ/2 sin θ). Therefore, the diffraction peaks of the SAXS pattern were indexed using the Miller-Bravais index (hkl).

(2-5) In Vivo Moisturizing Property A test sample is applied at 48 mg/cm ² to the inside of the forearm of a subject having healthy skin, and the amount of water in the stratum corneum after application is a corneometer (“Corneometer CM825”; manufactured by Courage+Khazaka). Was measured in an environment of room temperature (22° C.) and humidity of 50%. Moisture retention was evaluated by the amount of change in the amount of water in the stratum corneum after peeling off the film formed 6 hours after the application, with respect to the amount of moisture in the stratum corneum before application.

(2-6) Occlusion property A plastic dish with a diameter of 14.5 cm was coated with 15.75 g of the test sample and left standing in a constant temperature bath at 50°C for 1 day to form a film of 0.3 g/cm ^2. It was Purified water was added to the screw tube, and it was left standing in a thermostat (temperature: 39.6°C, humidity: 7%) for 24 hours, and the weight change was measured. The water evaporation rate was calculated by dividing by the weight of the screw tube covered with the film of the test sample (sample change amount) and the weight of the uncovered screw tube (control change amount).

(2-7) Adhesiveness The test sample was applied to the inside of the forearm of the test subject at 48 mg/cm ² . Immediately after the application, 5 hours after the application and 8 hours after the application, the film formed on the skin was observed to visually confirm the adhesiveness of the film.

[3. Evaluation results]
(3-1) Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the liquid crystal formation test sample.

Liquid crystal formation was observed in all of the emulsifiers and cosmetics of Examples 1 to 12. In addition, the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 12 are liquid crystal films on the skin without breakage of the liquid crystal even after 8 hours after application, even by mechanical load, water evaporation, contact with sweat or sebum, etc. Maintained its shape. Furthermore, in the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 12, the formation of liquid crystals was observed even after storage for 1 month, and the stability of the liquid crystals was excellent. The liquid crystal films formed by applying the cosmetics of Example 1, Example 2, Example 6 and Example 11 to the skin had a lamellar phase.

As a typical example of liquid crystal formation and stability, the results of a test sample by polarization microscope observation and X-ray small angle scattering analysis are shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. That is, regarding the cosmetic of Example 1, an observation photograph of a polarization microscope relating to the liquid crystal forming property in a creamy cosmetic containing a large amount of water before skin application and the results of X-ray small angle scattering analysis relating to the liquid crystal structure are respectively shown. It is shown in FIGS. 1A and 2A. Similarly, 8 hours after the skin application, water naturally evaporates and the observation result of the polarization microscope concerning the liquid crystal forming property in the cosmetic material after the film formation and the result of the X-ray small angle scattering analysis concerning the liquid crystal structure are shown in FIGS. 1B and 2B, respectively. Shown in. As shown in these figures, with respect to the cosmetic material of Example 1, before and after application to the skin, no residue of phytosterols or a precipitate of crystals was observed, and the presence of liquid crystals could be confirmed.

More specifically, the presence of a stable liquid crystal phase as dispersed micro liquid crystal droplets (LC Microdroplets: about 30 μm) in the cosmetic material of Example 1 was confirmed as maltase cross from the results of the polarization microscope of FIGS. 1A and 1B. did it. In particular, it can be seen that since the film after water evaporation has a large number of minute liquid crystal droplets stably immobilized in the polymer film in a highly concentrated state, the moisturizing and clogging properties can be efficiently exhibited.

From the SAXS analysis results of FIG. 2A and FIG. 2B, regarding the cosmetic of Example 1, in the case of a cream (water content>80% by mass), a liquid crystal phase having a columnar structure was formed, and in the case of a film ( It was found that a water content <50% by weight) formed a liquid crystal structure by a lamella phase. When the cosmetic is in the form of cream, it is a liquid crystal having a columnar structure, so that it firmly holds water and stabilizes the formulation in the container. On the other hand, when the cosmetic material is in the form of a film, since it is a lamellar liquid crystal, water can be captured and discharged, so that it can be expected to give water to the skin through the film. The formed film contained a large number of stable lamellar liquid crystal droplets, and the layer spacing of this lamellar liquid crystal phase was about 7 to 8 nm. This is similar to the interlamellar spacing (6 nm) of short-period lamellae in the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum. The lamellar liquid crystal phase having such a layer interval is useful for storage and re-capture of moisture from the surroundings, and is expected to maintain wettability, flexibility and elasticity as a film texture.

No liquid crystal formation was observed in any of the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 5.

Liquid crystal formation was observed for both the emulsifier and the cosmetic of Comparative Example 2. However, the cosmetic of Comparative Example 2 was found to show crystal precipitation when stored for one month.

The emulsifier of Comparative Example 3 was found to form liquid crystals, whereas the cosmetic of Comparative Example 3 was found to have crystal precipitation.

In the emulsifier and cosmetics of Comparative Example 4, phytosterol was not completely dissolved, and a phytosterol residue was observed.

FIG. 3 shows observation photographs of a liquid crystal forming property of the emulsifiers of Examples 13 to 14 and Comparative Example 6 with a polarization microscope. As shown in FIG. 3, liquid crystal formation was observed in the emulsifiers of Examples 13 to 14. On the other hand, in the emulsifier of Comparative Example 6, many phytosterol residues were observed.

From the above results, it was confirmed that the emulsifiers and cosmetics of Examples 1 to 14 formed liquid crystals at the time of preparation. Further, the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 12 were excellent in liquid crystal stability, and were capable of forming a lamella phase liquid crystal film when applied on the skin.

(3-2) Regarding film property in vivo moisture retention, the results of comparing the cosmetics of Example 1 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 and the cosmetics of Example 11 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 5 were compared, They are shown in FIGS. 4A and 4B, respectively. As shown in these figures, the cosmetics of Examples 1 and 11 were found to have a higher moisturizing effect than the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 5, respectively.

Regarding the occlusivity, the results of comparing the cosmetics of Example 1 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 are shown in FIG. As shown in FIG. 5, compared with the cosmetic of Comparative Example 1, the cosmetic of Example 1 had improved water resistance and water retention due to the presence of liquid crystal in the polymer film, and thus the amount of evaporation of purified water. The number was low and the occlusivity was high.

Regarding the adhesiveness, the results of comparing the cosmetics of Example 1 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 are shown in FIG. As shown in FIG. 6, when the film formed of the cosmetic of Example 1 and the film of Comparative Example 1 was adhered to the skin for a long time, it was observed that the cosmetic of Comparative Example 1 was about to come off. However, the cosmetic of Example 1 had high adhesiveness to the skin, and it was observed that the cosmetic adhered even after 8 hours. Since the liquid crystal droplets in the polymer film not only have moisturizing and blocking properties, but also function as a filler, the presence of liquid crystal droplets improves the resistance to sweat and sebum and enables long-term adhesion. It is speculated that It was also possible to adhere powder foundation, makeup cosmetics such as lipstick, etc. onto the film.

[4. Prescription example]
According to the procedure of (1-1) above, phase A comprising amphipathic lipid, sterol and linear saturated fatty acid in various concentrations, respectively, was prepared, and then phase B was added to phase A to prepare an emulsifier. The formability was evaluated.

When the concentrations of the amphipathic lipid, the linear saturated fatty acid and the sterol in the phase A were in the concentration ranges shown in Tables 2 to 4 below, it could be evaluated as having liquid crystal formation (“⊚”). In addition, it was confirmed that the phase B described in Table 5 could be used.

According to the formulation of Example 1 and the procedure of (1-1) above, except that the water-soluble polymer shown in Table 6 was used as the water-soluble polymer and the concentration range of the water-soluble polymer was 2 to 10 wt %. Cosmetics were prepared and liquid crystal forming properties were evaluated. As a result, all the cosmetics could be evaluated as those having a liquid crystal forming property (“⊚”). When the obtained cosmetic was applied on the skin, formation of a film could be confirmed. The film formed contained many stable lamellar liquid crystal droplets. Since the combination of the film-forming polymer and the lamellar liquid crystal droplets has a structure similar to that of the intercellular lipid that has the barrier function of the stratum corneum, it can be expected to perform the same function as that of the stratum corneum.

The composition and emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention can be used for preparing a cosmetic that stably holds a liquid crystal structure in a liquid state in a container and in a film form on the skin. The cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention can be used as a cosmetic such as a cream, an emulsion or a pack because it can form a composite film having a lamellar liquid crystal structure by applying it to the skin surface. is there. By using the cosmetics according to one aspect of the present invention, the user can comfortably reduce or prevent the dryness of the skin, improve the condition of the skin, and further protect the skin on a daily basis. ..

Claims (11)

A liquid crystal-forming composition comprising an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a linear saturated fatty acid. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition for forming a liquid crystal is in a solid state at 25°C. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amphipathic lipid is at least one amphipathic lipid selected from the group consisting of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide and phosphatidylcholine. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the lecithin and the hydrogenated lecithin are lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin each having a phosphatidylcholine content of 20% by mass or more. The content of the amphipathic lipid is greater than the content of the sterol, or is greater than the content of the linear saturated fatty acid, The content of any one of claims 1 to 4. Composition. A liquid crystal containing 38% by mass to 70% by mass of amphipathic lipid, 5% by mass to 40% by mass of sterol, and 10% by mass to 45% by mass of linear saturated fatty acid, and in a solid state at 25°C. Forming composition. A liquid crystal-containing emulsifier containing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 and a solvent. The emulsifier according to claim 7, wherein the solvent is at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of water, polyhydric alcohols, alcohols, ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and vegetable oils. The emulsifier according to any one of claims 7 to 8, wherein the content of the solvent is 50% by mass to 90% by mass. A liquid crystal forming composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, and at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols, alcohols, ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and vegetable oils, A liquid crystal-containing cosmetic containing a film-forming polymer and water. The cosmetic according to claim 10, wherein the cosmetic exhibits a film-like shape when applied to the skin and has a water content of 50% or less, and contains a stable liquid crystal phase.