JP2019218268A - Melanin decomposition accelerator and skin-whitening cosmetics - Google Patents
Melanin decomposition accelerator and skin-whitening cosmetics Download PDFInfo
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本発明は、紫外線や加齢などの様々な要因により生じる色素沈着の迅速な改善に有用なメラニン分解促進剤、およびメラニン分解促進剤を含有する美白化粧料に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a melanin decomposition promoter useful for rapidly improving pigmentation caused by various factors such as ultraviolet rays and aging, and a whitening cosmetic containing the melanin decomposition promoter.
顔や腕などの紫外線に日常的に暴露されやすい部位では局所的な色素沈着、いわゆるシミが加齢とともに形成される。この色素沈着は、長年の紫外線暴露によって表皮に存在するメラノサイトが活性化されることで過剰にメラニンが産生され、その結果皮膚中のメラニン量が多くなったことが原因であると考えられている(非特許文献1)。 In areas that are routinely exposed to ultraviolet light, such as the face and arms, local pigmentation, so-called spots, form with age. This pigmentation is thought to be caused by excessive production of melanin due to activation of melanocytes present in the epidermis due to long-term exposure to ultraviolet light, resulting in an increase in the amount of melanin in the skin. (Non-Patent Document 1).
そのため、シミの改善が期待できる成分としてメラノサイトにおけるメラニン生合成に関与する酵素活性を阻害する成分(特許文献1)や、メラノサイトを活性化するエンドセリンやプロスタグランジンといったシグナル伝達物質を阻害する成分等が数多く開発されてきた(特許文献2、特許文献3)。 Therefore, as components that can be expected to improve stains, components that inhibit enzyme activities involved in melanin biosynthesis in melanocytes (Patent Document 1), components that inhibit signal transducers such as endothelin and prostaglandin that activate melanocytes, etc. Have been developed (Patent Documents 2 and 3).
これらの成分が配合された化粧料を日常的に使用することによって、シミの形成が予防できることは明らかであるが、既に形成されたシミ部位の表皮には多量のメラニンが蓄積されているため、シミをすばやく改善するにはメラニン合成抑制効果を有する上記成分に加え、蓄積されたメラニンを取り除くことが重要である。 It is clear that the use of cosmetics containing these components on a daily basis can prevent the formation of stains, but because a large amount of melanin is accumulated in the epidermis of the already formed stain site, In order to improve stains quickly, it is important to remove accumulated melanin in addition to the above-mentioned components having a melanin synthesis inhibitory effect.
メラニンを取り除く方法としては表皮の入れ替わり、すなわちターンオーバーを促進する方法等が提案されているが(特許文献4)、細胞内に存在する過剰なメラニンは細胞分裂能の低下を引き起こすため、細胞内に存在するメラニン量が減少しない限り十分な効果を発揮させるのは難しい。 As a method of removing melanin, a method of promoting epidermal replacement, that is, a method of promoting turnover has been proposed (Patent Document 4). However, since excessive melanin present in cells causes a decrease in cell division ability, intracellular It is difficult to exert a sufficient effect unless the amount of melanin present in the yeast is reduced.
また、化学的手法によって表皮をピーリングする方法(ケミカルピーリング)も色素斑の改善には有用であり、グリコール酸やサリチル酸などが知られているが、皮膚刺激などの問題があるため医師の管理下で行われることが望ましい(非特許文献2)。 In addition, a method of peeling the epidermis by a chemical method (chemical peeling) is also useful for improving pigment spots, and glycolic acid and salicylic acid are known. (See Non-Patent Document 2).
一方、シミ部の表皮に蓄積したメラニンは表皮細胞内の酵素の働きにより分解されることが知られている。そのため、特許文献5ではツボクサエキスを用いたメラニン分解促進剤が提案されているが、そのような効果を有する成分はほとんど見つかっていない。 On the other hand, it is known that melanin accumulated in the epidermis of the stain portion is decomposed by the action of an enzyme in epidermal cells. For this reason, Patent Document 5 proposes a melanin decomposition accelerator using a boxweed extract, but almost no component having such an effect has been found.
モダマ葉抽出物については、抗酸化効果(特許文献6)や毛乳頭細胞活性化効果(特許文献7)が知られている。しかしながら、モダマ葉抽出物におけるメラニン分解促進作用については全く知られていなかった。 As for the Modama leaf extract, an antioxidant effect (Patent Document 6) and a hair papilla cell activating effect (Patent Document 7) are known. However, the melanin decomposition promoting action of the modama leaf extract was not known at all.
このような背景から、シミやソバカス等の色素沈着を迅速に改善するため、シミ部位の表皮に存在しているメラニンを分解することができる有効かつ安全性の高いメラニン分解促進剤が強く求められていた。 Against this background, effective and highly safe melanin degradation promoters capable of decomposing melanin present in the epidermis of the spot area are strongly demanded in order to quickly improve pigmentation of spots and freckles. I was
本発明の課題は、新規で有用なメラニン分解促進剤及び、シミやソバカスをはじめとする様々な色素沈着症状の迅速な緩和・改善に有用な美白化粧料を提供することである。 An object of the present invention is to provide a novel and useful melanin decomposition promoter and a whitening cosmetic which is useful for promptly alleviating and improving various pigmentation symptoms such as spots and freckles.
本発明者らが鋭意検討した結果、モダマ葉抽出物を用いることで前記課題を解決した。 As a result of intensive studies by the present inventors, the above problem was solved by using a modama leaf extract.
本発明により、モダマ葉抽出物を用いた美白への新たなアプローチ方法を提供することができる。加えて、新規のメラニン分解促進剤を提供することができる。さらに本発明で見出したモダマ葉抽出物と、従来から用いられているメラニン合成を抑制するような成分と組み合わせることで、既に形成されたシミを迅速に改善することが可能である。 According to the present invention, a new approach to whitening using a modama leaf extract can be provided. In addition, a novel melanin decomposition promoter can be provided. Further, by combining the modama leaf extract found in the present invention with a conventionally used component that suppresses the synthesis of melanin, it is possible to quickly improve already formed spots.
本発明で用いるモダマ (藻玉、学名:Entada Phaseoloides) はマメ科の常緑性植物で、東南アジアに広く分布している植物で、世界一大きい豆を実らせる植物として知られている。インドネシアのジャワ島では民間薬(ジャムウ)として栽培、利用されている植物でもある。 Modama (algae, scientific name: Entada Phaseoloides) used in the present invention is an evergreen plant of the legume family, widely distributed in Southeast Asia, and known as a plant that produces the largest beans in the world. It is a plant that is cultivated and used as a folk medicine (jam) on Java Island in Indonesia.
本発明の表皮細胞におけるメラニン分解促進剤は、外用、内服のいずれの方法でも用いることができるが、皮膚外用剤の形態とすることが好ましい。その剤型は、目的に応じて任意に選択でき、クリーム状、軟膏状、乳液状、ローション状、溶液状、ゲル状、パック状、パウダー状、スティック状等にできる。また、本発明の表皮細胞に対するメラニン分解促進剤は、化粧料、医薬部外品、医薬品等として用いることができうる。 The melanin degradation promoter in epidermal cells of the present invention can be used in any of external and internal methods, but is preferably in the form of a skin external preparation. The dosage form can be arbitrarily selected according to the purpose, and can be cream, ointment, emulsion, lotion, solution, gel, pack, powder, stick, and the like. In addition, the melanin degradation promoter for epidermal cells of the present invention can be used as cosmetics, quasi-drugs, pharmaceuticals, and the like.
本願発明で用いるモダマ抽出物の抽出部位は葉であり、その抽出溶媒は特に限定されない。例えば、水、メタノール、エタノール、プロピルアルコール等の低級アルコール或いは、プロピレングリコール、1,3-ブチレングリコール、等の多価アルコール等があげられるが、特に水、エタノール及び1,3-ブチレングリコールから選ばれる1種又は2種以上を選択することが好ましい。 The extraction site of the Modama extract used in the present invention is a leaf, and the extraction solvent is not particularly limited. For example, water, methanol, ethanol, lower alcohols such as propyl alcohol, or polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and the like, and in particular, water, ethanol and 1,3-butylene glycol It is preferable to select one kind or two or more kinds.
本願発明で用いるモダマ葉抽出物の抽出法は、特に限定されない。例えば、乾燥植物1質量部に対して1〜100質量部の水および1,3ブチレングリコールもしくはエタノールの混合液を用い、5〜70℃の、好ましくは10〜60℃の温度で、1〜7日間、特に3〜4日間抽出するのが好ましい。抽出後は、ろ過を行い、そのままの状態でも利用できるが、必要ならば、その効果に影響のない範囲で更に脱臭、脱色などの精製処理を行うことも出来る。更には、凍結乾燥等をして粉末の状態で用いることも出来る。 The extraction method of the modama leaf extract used in the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, using a mixed solution of 1 to 100 parts by mass of water and 1,3 butylene glycol or ethanol with respect to 1 part by mass of a dried plant, at a temperature of 5 to 70 ° C., preferably 10 to 60 ° C., and 1 to 7 parts It is preferable to extract for 3 days, especially 3 to 4 days. After the extraction, it is filtered and can be used as it is. However, if necessary, further purification treatment such as deodorization and decolorization can be performed within a range that does not affect the effect. Furthermore, it can be used in a powder state by freeze-drying or the like.
以下、本願発明の実施例について具体的に説明するが、本願発明はこれらの実施例により限定されるものではない。また、特記しない限り配合量は質量%で示す。 Examples of the present invention will be specifically described below, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the amounts are shown in mass%.
[試験1]メラニン分解促進作用確認試験
本発明者は、ヒト表皮由来細胞におけるメラニン分解促進作用を評価することとした。
〔サンプルの調製〕
モダマ葉および比較対照としてインドネシア原産植物として知られるハトムギ、メリンジョ、高い抗酸化効果及びメラニン生成抑制効果が知られているシソ葉を乾燥させ、乾燥原体とした。
乾燥原体1:抽出溶媒10の割合の質量比で混合し、抽出溶媒が50%エタノール水溶液の場合は室温、1週間、抽出溶媒が水の場合は60℃、5時間の条件で抽出物の抽出を行った。抽出後、凍結乾燥にて固形分を得た。
[Test 1] Melanin degradation promoting action confirmation test The present inventors evaluated the melanin degradation promoting action in human epidermis-derived cells.
(Preparation of sample)
Modama leaves and perilla leaves, Melinjo, known as Indonesian native plants as comparative controls, and perilla leaves, which are known to have a high antioxidant effect and a melanin production-suppressing effect, were dried to obtain a dry substance.
The mixture is mixed at a mass ratio of the dry substance 1: extraction solvent 10 and the extraction solvent is extracted at room temperature for 1 week when the extraction solvent is 50% aqueous ethanol, and at 60 ° C. for 5 hours when the extraction solvent is water. An extraction was performed. After extraction, a solid was obtained by freeze-drying.
〔メラニン溶液の調製〕
ヒト由来メラノーマ細胞HM3KOを5%CO2下、37℃のインキュベーター内で、5%FBSを含むD−MEM培地(Invitrogen社製Gibco)を用いて培養した。
100%コンフルエント近くになり、メラニン産生が進んだ細胞を、トリプシンを用いて7.0×106cells/ tubeになるようにエッペンドルフチューブに回収、遠心(1000g、4℃、3分)によって細胞ペレットを作成した。その後ペレットをPBS(−)にて洗浄した。
(Preparation of melanin solution)
Human-derived melanoma cells HM3KO were cultured in a 37 ° C. incubator under 5% CO 2 using a D-MEM medium containing 5% FBS (Gibco manufactured by Invitrogen).
The cells that have become nearly confluent and have increased melanin production are collected in an Eppendorf tube using trypsin to a concentration of 7.0 × 10 6 cells / tube, and centrifuged (1000 g, 4 ° C., 3 minutes) to pellet the cells. It was created. Thereafter, the pellet was washed with PBS (-).
細胞ペレットに対し、1mLのcold lysis buffer(1% octylphenoxy poly (ethyleneoxy)ethanol(IGEPAL CA−630 )、0.01% SDS含有0.1M Tris−HCl溶液(pH7.5)を添加した。これを10分ごとに攪拌しながら、20分室温にて静置した。この分散溶液を遠心分離(1000g、4℃、3分)、不要物を沈殿させ、メラノソームを含む上清を回収した。回収した上清を再度、遠心分離し(1000g、4℃、3分)、上清を回収した。この上清を遠心分離し(20000g、4℃、3分)、得られた沈殿をメラノソームリッチ画分とした。上清を吸引除去し、メラノソームのペレットをPBS(−)にて2度洗浄した。(20000g、4℃、3分)これにPBS(−)を添加し、50回以上ピペッティングすることによってメラノソームを分散させた。この懸濁液をメラニン溶液とした。 To the cell pellet, 1 mL of cold lysis buffer (1% octylphenoxy poly (ethylenoxy) ethanol (IGEPAL CA-630), 0.1 M Tris-HCl solution (pH 7.5) containing 0.01% SDS was added. This dispersion was centrifuged (1000 g, 4 ° C., 3 minutes) to precipitate unwanted substances, and the melanosome-containing supernatant was collected while stirring at room temperature for 20 minutes with stirring every 10 minutes. The supernatant was centrifuged again (1000 g, 4 ° C., 3 minutes) and the supernatant was collected, and the supernatant was centrifuged (20000 g, 4 ° C., 3 minutes), and the obtained precipitate was separated into a melanosome-rich fraction. The supernatant was removed by suction, and the melanosome pellet was washed twice with PBS (-) (20,000 g, ° C., 3 min) which in PBS (-.) Was added and the suspension was melanin solution was dispersed melanosomes by pipetting 50 times.
〔細胞の培養〕
ヒト表皮株化細胞(HaCaT)のトリプシン処理を行い、10%牛胎児血清を含有するD−MEM(Invitrogen)培地で細胞を分散させ、48well plateに1×104cells/wellになるように細胞を播種し、1日間、37℃で培養を行なった。1日間培養を行った後、前述の方法で調製したメラニン溶液を添加した。
ヒト表皮株化細胞にメラニンを取り込ませるため、さらに1日間培養を行った。その後、
培地を取り除きPBS(−)で洗浄することで細胞に取り込まれなかったメラニンを取り除いた。そこに2%牛胎児血清を含有するD−MEM培地および試料を添加した。
添加後4日間培養した。その後、培地を抜き取りPBS(−)で細胞を洗浄し、10分間マイルドホルム(Wako)で処理することで細胞を固定した。固定後、精製水で洗浄することで固定液を完全に取り除き、フォンタナアンモニア銀液(武藤化学)を添加した(フォンタナ・マッソン染色、メラニンを染色)。常温、オーバーナイト(18時間)処理した後、フォンタナアンモニア銀液を取り除き、精製水で洗浄した。TritonX−100(Wako)をPBS(−)で1000倍希釈した溶液を加え、15分処理したのち、PBS(−)で洗浄した。DAPI(DOJINDO)をPBS(−)で1000倍希釈し、400μLずつ加え、45分、37℃で反応させ、細胞の核を染色した。洗浄後、顕微鏡(キーエンス、倍率10倍)にて細胞の画像を取得した。
(Cell culture)
The human epidermal cell line (HaCaT) is treated with trypsin, the cells are dispersed in a D-MEM (Invitrogen) medium containing 10% fetal bovine serum, and the cells are dispersed in a 48-well plate so as to be 1 × 10 4 cells / well. And cultured at 37 ° C. for 1 day. After culturing for one day, the melanin solution prepared by the method described above was added.
In order to incorporate melanin into the human epidermal cell line, the cells were further cultured for one day. afterwards,
By removing the medium and washing with PBS (-), melanin that was not taken up by the cells was removed. Thereto, a D-MEM medium containing 2% fetal calf serum and a sample were added.
After the addition, the cells were cultured for 4 days. Thereafter, the medium was removed, the cells were washed with PBS (-), and treated with mild form (Wako) for 10 minutes to fix the cells. After fixation, the fixative was completely removed by washing with purified water, and Fontana ammonia silver solution (Mutoh Chemical) was added (fontana-Masson stain, melanin stain). After overnight (18 hours) treatment at normal temperature, the ammonia silver fontana solution was removed, and the mixture was washed with purified water. A solution of Triton X-100 (Wako) diluted 1000-fold with PBS (-) was added, and the mixture was treated for 15 minutes and then washed with PBS (-). DAPI (DOJINDO) was diluted 1000-fold with PBS (−), added in 400 μL aliquots, and allowed to react at 37 ° C. for 45 minutes to stain cell nuclei. After washing, an image of the cells was obtained with a microscope (Keyence, magnification: 10).
〔メラニン残存量の定量〕
取得した画像はImageJ(オープンソース)にて、二値化することでメラニンの存在部を選択した。メラニン存在部の総面積を求めることで、画像中のメラニン量を算出した。同様にImageJを用いて画像中の細胞数を算出した。これらの結果から、細胞あたりのメラニン量を求めた。
(Quantification of residual amount of melanin)
The obtained image was binarized by ImageJ (open source) to select a melanin existing part. The amount of melanin in the image was calculated by obtaining the total area of the melanin existing part. Similarly, the number of cells in the image was calculated using ImageJ. From these results, the amount of melanin per cell was determined.
精製水を添加した場合の細胞あたりのメラニン量を100とし、モダマ葉抽出物、比較対象の植物抽出物を添加時のメラニン量を以下の表に示す。100×(サンプルのメラニン量/細胞数)/(精製水のメラニン量/細胞数)の式から細胞あたりのメラニン量を求めた。 Assuming that the amount of melanin per cell when purified water is added is 100, the amount of melanin when a modama leaf extract and a plant extract to be compared are added is shown in the following table. The amount of melanin per cell was calculated from the formula 100 × (melanin amount of sample / number of cells) / (melanin amount of purified water / number of cells).
[試験2]DPPH試験
〔DPPH溶液の調製〕
DPPH溶液は、以下に示す各成分を、(A):(B):(C)=1:4:3容量の割合で混合し調製した。
(A)ES(2-(N−モルホリノ)エタンスルホン酸)5.52gを水100mLに溶かし、1N−NaOHでPH6.1に調製した。
(B)DPPH(1,1−ジフェニルー2−ピクリルヒドラジル)15.7mgをエタノール100mlに溶解した。
(C)精製水
〔Trolox溶液の調製〕
Trolox25mgをDMSO(ジメチルスルホキシド)10mlに溶解し、10mM溶液を作成した。
〔DPPH試験〕
測定は12.5倍希釈した試料10μLを96well plateの1well中に加え、次いでDPPH溶液190μlを迅速に加え混合した。30分後、各wellの吸光度を540nmで測定した。試験溶液のTrolox当量は、0.156mM、0.313mM、0.625mM、1.25mM、2.5mM、5.0mMのTrolox溶液10μlをとり、DPPH溶液190μlを加え混合し、30分後の540nmの吸光度を測定し、Trolox濃度と540nmの吸光度値の検量線を作成した。試験溶液の540nmの吸光度値から、検量線によりTrolox当量を算出した。標準物質として使用するTroloxは、トコフェロールと類似した構造を有する物質である。Troloxを1とした場合、α-トコフェロール、γ-トコフェロール、δ-トコフェロールは、それぞれ0.50、0.74、1.36を示すといわれているので、Trolox当量が0.5以上であれば、十分な抗酸化効果であると言える。
[Test 2] DPPH test [Preparation of DPPH solution]
The DPPH solution was prepared by mixing the following components at a ratio of (A) :( B) :( C) = 1: 4: 3 by volume.
(A) 5.52 g of ES (2- (N-morpholino) ethanesulfonic acid) was dissolved in 100 mL of water, and adjusted to pH 6.1 with 1N-NaOH.
(B) 15.7 mg of DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) was dissolved in 100 ml of ethanol.
(C) Purified water [Preparation of Trolox solution]
25 mg of Trolox was dissolved in 10 ml of DMSO (dimethyl sulfoxide) to prepare a 10 mM solution.
[DPPH test]
For the measurement, 10 μL of a 12.5-fold diluted sample was added to 1 well of a 96-well plate, and then 190 μl of a DPPH solution was quickly added and mixed. After 30 minutes, the absorbance of each well was measured at 540 nm. The Trolox equivalent of the test solution was prepared by taking 10 μl of 0.156 mM, 0.313 mM, 0.625 mM, 1.25 mM, 2.5 mM, and 5.0 mM Trolox solution, adding 190 μl of DPPH solution, mixing, and 540 nm after 30 minutes. Was measured to prepare a calibration curve of the Trolox concentration and the absorbance value at 540 nm. The Trolox equivalent was calculated from the absorbance value of the test solution at 540 nm using a calibration curve. Trolox used as a standard is a substance having a structure similar to tocopherol. When Trolox is 1, α-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, and δ-tocopherol are said to show 0.50, 0.74, and 1.36, respectively, so if the Trolox equivalent is 0.5 or more, It can be said that the antioxidant effect is sufficient.
表1に示すようにモダマ葉抽出物では細胞あたりのメラニン量が63.1%と、精製水に比べて精製水と約37%減少しており、細胞内におけるメラニン分解が顕著に促進されることが確認された。一方、シソ葉抽出物には高い抗酸化作用やメラニン生成抑制効果が良く知られているが、メラニン分解促進効果は認められなかった。そのため、抗酸化作用およびメラニン生成抑制効果はメラニン分解促進効果と連動しないものであると考えられた。
As shown in Table 1, the amount of melanin per cell in the Modama leaf extract was 63.1%, which was about 37% smaller than that of purified water compared to purified water, and the degradation of melanin in cells was significantly promoted. It was confirmed that. On the other hand, a perilla leaf extract is well known for its high antioxidant activity and melanin production inhibitory effect, but no melanin degradation promoting effect was observed. Therefore, it was considered that the antioxidant effect and the melanin production inhibitory effect were not linked to the melanin degradation promoting effect.
本発明のモダマ葉抽出物は、表皮細胞における細胞内メラニン分解を促進する効果を有しており、紫外線、加齢に起因する色素沈着を迅速に改善することが期待できる。
INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The modama leaf extract of the present invention has an effect of promoting intracellular melanin degradation in epidermal cells, and can be expected to promptly improve pigmentation caused by ultraviolet rays and aging.
Claims (3)
A cosmetic method for promoting the decomposition of melanin present in epidermal cells, wherein a composition containing a modama leaf extract is applied to the skin.
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BAURIN N. ET AL., JOURNAL OF ETHNOPHARMACOLOGY, vol. 82, JPN6022007856, 2002, pages 155 - 158, ISSN: 0004721078 * |
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