JP2016106164A - Lanolin substitute, production method and application of the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a lanolin substitute having a moisture-retention power greater than that of lanolin, forming a real emulsion which is stable over time, as well as having well-known emollient, hydrating and occlusive properties of lanolin, and absorbing up to at least twice the weight of lanolin of water, an aqueous solution or an aqueous suspension.SOLUTION: A lanolin substitute is obtained by: adding a compound which has or generates a hydroxy group, such as glycerol, to an unsaturated fatty acid, an unsaturated fatty acid ester, an unsaturated hydrocarbon or an unsaturated derivative of them preferably without a catalyst, by means of dielectric heating, and in an oxygen-free atmosphere; performing polymerization; and stopping the polymerization when the viscosity reaches a predetermined value. The lanolin substitute is a polymer with basket-like shape, of which the viscosity at 40°C is higher than 1,000 cP, which can absorb twice the weight thereof or more of water, an aqueous solution or an aqueous suspension, and which forms an emulsion being stable over time.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

TECHNICAL BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION AND PROBLEMS PROposed The lanolin, an oil extracted from sheep's swints, is widely used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries due to its properties such as relaxation, moisturization and emulsification and its ability to absorb moisture.

  Despite all these characteristics, lanolin is animal, making it difficult to satisfy consumers who are worried about scrapie. Allergic reactions from residual insecticides, strong odors, variable composition, and instability of supply are additional factors that allow scientists to study lanolin alternatives.

  There are many attempts to replace lanolin with oleochemicals.

  The first solution investigated is to recreate the lanolin formulation by eliminating animal components. Due to the complex composition of lanolin, this solution is difficult: the costs incurred are too high to continue.

  A second solution to solve this problem is to produce a product that differs in composition from lanolin but has similar properties.

  To date, the proposed alternatives have not been completely satisfactory in terms of their properties, their compositional complexity, some physicochemical characteristics that are high as acidic indicators, and / or their manufacturing costs.

Prior art:
Lanolin Lanolin Composition Lanolin, or wool fat, is produced from sebum secretions of sheep fat. This is a mixture of sterols and long chain fatty alcohols. Sometimes this mixture also contains other substances (nickel, chromium, copper, etc.) in the form of trace components.
Its composition is complex as shown in the table below.

・ Specifications of lanolin Lanolin is a solid wax with a pale yellow color and a characteristic odor. Not soluble in water but soluble in hot ethanol, ether and chloroform.
The following table summarizes the physicochemical characteristics of this material.

・ Acquisition of lanolin Lanolin is extracted from sheep's swint and is a sebum substance secreted from the sweat glands of the animal. The swint is 15 to 75% of the weight of the wool fiber.

The skin with the wool of the killed sheep is sent to a hair removal company. After the skinning operation, the skin and wool are separated.
The skin is dried and the resulting sheep skin is sent to a leather trader.
On the other hand, wool still contains fats and oils. That is, all the swints are on the hair surface. To remove this, the wool is soaked in a soda and soap bath. The wool is ready for carding (brushing, combing) and combing (removal of short fibers). After purification, the swint is reused in medicines or cosmetics.

・ The main producer of wool:
Today, wool trade is mainly conducted between raw wool exporting countries (especially Australia and New Zealand) and large wool yarn producers such as the United States, Italy, Japan and Korea. Only the former Soviet Union and China, Produces both raw wool and yarn.

・ Significant reduction in consumption of natural fibers such as wool Wool has been used in textile production since the Neolithic era. However, the stable demand for wool products is partially met by synthetic products, and the quality of synthetic products is competing with that of long-lasting woolen fabrics and knitting. The proportion of artificial fibers continues to increase all over the world (cellulose fibers obtained from wood and cotton scrap, polyamides obtained from petroleum, polyacrylic and polyester). In 1990, the chemical fiber industry accounted for nearly 45% of the world's fiber consumption at 42.5 million tons.

-Functions and uses of lanolin Lanolin and its derivatives (acetylated, ethoxylated, hydrogenated, hydroxylated, etc.) are very frequently used in the cosmetic and industrial fields.
Lanolin was initially used in ointments in the pharmaceutical field to stabilize active ingredients dissolved in water. Then, due to its mildness and moisturizing properties, it is strongly recommended in various formulations.

-Cosmetics and dermatological functions and uses Lanolin is widely used in cosmetics and dermatology because of its mildness, moisturizing, emulsifying properties and occlusion. Lanolin softens the skin, protects the skin and prevents it from drying out. Lanolin is also capable of absorbing water up to four times its weight. In addition, lanolin is difficult to oxidize.
A very large number of lanolin derivatives, which are obtained by physical or chemical transformations and exhibit better characteristics of odor, color and feel, are preferably used.
Due to their remarkable properties, lanolin and its derivatives are included in the composition of numerous preparations such as: bubble bath, lipstick, cream, shaving cream, after shave lotion, powder, soap, shampoo.

-Industrial functions and applications Lanolin is used in the industrial field for a variety of applications such as: wax, printing ink, rust-proof, anti-corrosion protective film applied to certain metals, waterproof treatment Leather industry, paint, etc.

Reasons for replacing lanolin Despite all these characteristics, lanolin is increasingly criticized for the following reasons.

-Be animal. Today's consumers are increasingly curious to protect their health and nature. They increasingly value the inclusion of botanical ingredients in the products they use. Sheep scrapie (TSSE: infectious subacute spongiform encephalopathy) and mad cow disease (BSE: bovine spongiform encephalitis) have made consumers anxious, and consumers are a variant of Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease (CJD). Infected and afraid to get sick.
Sheep scrapie has been known since the mid-18th century, but it was not until 1985 that an equivalent to this sheep disease was reported for cows. As a result of the investigation, it was found that these cows were made from meat-and-bone meal that was manufactured from the skeleton of a scrapie-affected sheep and not heated at high temperatures. Thus, a disease specific to sheep has infected cows, which can be transmitted to humans by CJD.

-Impurities and possible allergic reactions Naturally, wool contains impurities such as weeds, soil and yamgra, and pollutants such as insecticides. Removing these impurities from wool and then defatting does not eliminate trace amounts of pesticides in lanolin (swint), which stifles consumers who care about the quality of their products and their health. Yes.
Some people have an allergic reaction to cosmetics containing lanolin, where residual insecticides and polycyclic alcohols are not excluded.

-Strong odor Lanolin has a characteristic strong odor, and it is necessary to use a large amount of fragrance to conceal it. Addition of such a large amount of perfume is not necessarily allowed for people with sensitive skin.

-Variable composition The composition of lanolin is complex and variable (see Table 1). This variability is explained, among other things, by the variety of sheep types, their age, type of feed, and location. Therefore, it turns out that it is difficult to obtain lanolin of a certain quality.

  For all these reasons, many scientists are studying alternatives to lanolin.

Alternatives to Lanolin Replacement The first solution that has been considered is to reconstitute the lanolin formulation by eliminating animal components. The complexity of the lanolin composition (see Tables 1 and 2) makes this solution difficult. In other words, the costs incurred are too high to continue this measure.

  A second solution to solve this problem is to produce a product that differs in composition from lanolin but has similar properties.

To date, the proposed alternative has not been completely satisfactory. That is, they have relaxation properties and moisture retention properties but no water absorption.
In addition, the complexity of the composition, some physicochemical characteristics such as acid number, and / or manufacturing costs still need to be optimized.

  Thus, there is a great and well-known need to find a true alternative to lanolin.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention proposes a product characterized in that it can absorb water, aqueous solution or suspension up to at least twice its weight in a novel industrial product itself forming a lanolin substitute. . It has a water retention capacity that exceeds that of lanolin and forms a true emulsion that is stable over time.

  This lanolin substitute is a mixture of unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, unsaturated hydrocarbons or unsaturated derivatives thereof having or generating hydroxyl groups, preferably in an oxygen-free atmosphere, without a catalyst. Is obtained by semi-synthesis.

Applications Applicants have discovered lanolin substitutes for the cosmetics and dermatology market, and all other uses of lanolin, as well as original methods of preparation.

  Applicant has discovered a lanolin substitute for the cosmetics market, but due to its water, aqueous solution or suspension's absorption capacity, and its mildness and moisturizing properties, it has been incorporated into a number of preparation compositions. It is possible to include.

Application examples for cosmetics:
-Bubble bath,
-Lipstick,
-Care cream for dry skin,
-Shaving cream,
-After shave lotion,
-Powder,
-Soap,
-Shampoo,
-Waterproof sunscreen cream,
-Makeup removal,
-Bath oil,
-Lip Balm,
Ointment,
-Lipstick, etc.

Industrial applications:
-Wax,
Printing ink,
-Anti-corrosion, anti-corrosion protection film applied to specific metals,
-Leather industry for waterproofing,
-Lubricant additives,
-Paint, etc.

This list is not exhaustive. This lanolin alternative can be used for all current and future uses of lanolin.
The present invention is suitable for various ratios of unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, unsaturated hydrocarbons, or their unsaturated compounds with compounds having or generating hydroxyl groups, preferably in an oxygen-free atmosphere, without a catalyst. It is particularly concerned with heat treating a saturated derivative, but is not limited thereto.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention proposes a new industrial product per se, which is a lanolin substitute and is capable of absorbing water, aqueous solutions or suspensions up to at least twice its weight. The lanolin substitute has a water retention capacity over lanolin and forms a true emulsion that is stable over time.

The lanolin substitute also has the well-known relaxant, moisturizing and occluding properties of lanolin. It softens the skin, protects the skin and prevents its drying.
The manufacturing method is simpler and more economical than the previous one.
This lanolin substitute is a mixture of unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, unsaturated hydrocarbons or unsaturated derivatives thereof having or generating hydroxyl groups, preferably in an oxygen-free atmosphere, without a catalyst. Is obtained by semi-synthesis.

The present invention relates to the properties of this product.
Surprisingly, the product can absorb water up to at least twice its weight. In addition, the emulsion formed is stable over time and after multiple drying at 40 ° C. This phenomenon is not observed with lanolin and, conversely, all its water is released in less than 15 days.

  In addition to this water-absorbing ability, the product has relaxation properties, moisture retention properties, emulsification properties, and occlusion properties. The product softens the skin, protects the skin and prevents its drying.

  A feature of the invention stems from the addition of a reagent having or generating a hydroxyl group to the reaction medium. For simplicity, these reagents are referred to as “OH reagents”.

Polymeric bases and their properties The applicant has filed French patent application 98133770 and WO 00/26265 (PCT / FR99 / 02646) relating to the original method of dielectric heating. This method applies in particular to the preparation of the lanolin substitute which is the subject of this document.

  According to these patents, the polymerization of unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, unsaturated hydrocarbons, unsaturated derivatives of these compounds, alone or in a mixture, is carried out in such a way that the reagent or reaction mixture is dielectric to carry out the polymerization. It is characterized by being subjected to heating.

Preferably, it is as follows.
Heating is performed using microwave frequencies.
Heating is performed using radio frequency.
-Implemented with or without catalyst.
-Heterogeneous or homogeneous catalysts can be added to the reagent or reaction mixture.
A catalyst that reacts to radio frequency or microwave frequency, such as montmorillonite, can be added to the reagent or reaction mixture.
The reagent or reaction mixture, and optionally the catalyst, is placed in a batch or discontinuous reactor suitable for receiving microwave or radio frequency.
The reagent or reaction mixture, and optionally the catalyst, are placed in a reactor suitable for carrying out a continuous reaction.
The frequency is comprised between about 30 GHz and about 300 MHz;
-The frequency is 2.45 GHz or 915 MHz.
The frequency is comprised between about 300 MHz and about 3 MHz;
The frequency is 13.56 MHz or 27.12 MHz;
The temperature applied to the reagent or reaction mixture and optionally the catalyst is comprised between 200 and 400 ° C., preferably between 220 and 350 ° C.
The heating time is chosen between 3 and 60 minutes, preferably between 3 and 20 minutes.
The reaction time is comprised between 15 and 15 hours, preferably between 15 and 360 minutes, more preferably between 15 and 120 minutes.
Polymerization is carried out under a normal or rich, preferably inert atmosphere of oxygen; reduced pressure, preferably between 50 and 10 mm mercury columns; the atmosphere is periodically updated.
Depending on the desired viscosity, the reagent or reaction mixture is allowed to cool spontaneously to a temperature below the polymerization temperature or forcedly cooled to stop the polymerization.

  However, it can also be performed by conventional heat treatment.

  Without adding these “OH reagents”, Applicants obtain polymers of unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, unsaturated hydrocarbons or derivatives of these substances in the manner described above.

  These polymers alone have the relaxation, moisturizing, and occlusion properties recommended for cosmetic formulations. They also have a water absorption capacity, but this capacity is limited compared to that of lanolin: the polymer absorbs moisture up to 80% of its weight. The polymerized lattice structure formed is sufficient to store water and form an emulsion. However, these emulsions are not stable: moisture is released in less than 24 hours.

  The technical problem was to make the properties of the resulting polymer as close as possible to that of lanolin. For this reason, a sufficient amount of “OH reagent” is added in the reaction medium, ie having or generating hydroxyl groups.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the resulting product retains its original properties (relaxation, moisturization, occlusion), but now absorbs at least twice its weight. In addition, the emulsion formed is stable over time and after multiple drying at 40 ° C. This phenomenon is not seen with lanolin, which releases all water in less than 15 days.
These products have a water retention capacity that exceeds that of lanolin.

  The addition of OH reagents that have or generate hydroxyl groups reduces the acidity of the products formed by esterification and / or amidation, thereby limiting the risk of thermal degradation and hydrolysis reactions. Should be noted. Therefore, the product formed is much more stable.

  Similarly, adding an OH reagent to a given initial mixture of unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, unsaturated hydrocarbons, and unsaturated derivatives thereof changes the viscosity of the final product.

Manufacture of these lanolin substitutes Lanolin substitutes are preferably unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, together with one or more OH reagents having or generating hydroxyl groups, in an oxygen-free atmosphere, without catalyst. , Unsaturated hydrocarbons, their unsaturated derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds in various proportions.

  The heat treatment is performed by subjecting the reagent to conventional or dielectric heating, as described in Applicant's aforementioned patent.

A Conventional heat treatment:
Conventional heat treatment is carried out between 100 and 400 ° C., better between 230 and 350 ° C., in an inert atmosphere, with constant stirring, preferably without a catalyst. The reaction temperature depends on the boiling and / or degradation temperature of the components of the mixture.

  The total reaction time depends on the reagent or reagents used and the viscosity to be obtained. This is preferably between 3 and 24 hours, preferably between 3 and 10 hours.

B Heat treatment by dielectric heating:
Due to the time and energy gains that lead to lower investment costs, dielectric heating, i.e. heating at microwave frequencies or high frequencies, is preferred as described in the above-mentioned patents, but for the convenience of those skilled in the art. The following is an excerpt of the above-mentioned patent, so that those skilled in the art can advantageously refer to the details of its implementation. Further, those skilled in the art will be able to refer to a patent application filed on the same day by the applicant for an improved apparatus for performing dielectric heating.

  Although preferably carried out without a catalyst, it has been surprisingly found that the esterification of free fatty acids can be achieved by a reactant such as glycerol without a catalyst.

  Also quite surprisingly, it was confirmed that good results could be obtained without unexpectedly hindering or competing reactions to prevent the study of this instrument.

  The microwave frequency MW is comprised between about 300 MHz and about 30 GHz, preferably 915 MHz (frequency with a tolerance of 1.4%) or 2.45 GHz (frequency with a tolerance of 2%).

  The high frequency HF is included between about 3 MHz and about 300 MHz, and is preferably 13.56 MHz (frequency with a tolerance of 0.05%) or 27.12 MHz (frequency with a tolerance of 0.6).

  The reaction temperature is located between 100 and 400 ° C., better between 230 and 350 ° C., under inert atmosphere, with constant stirring, preferably without catalyst. The reaction temperature depends on the boiling and / or degradation temperature of the components of the mixture.

  The total reaction time depends on the reagent or reagents used and the viscosity to be obtained. This is preferably between 15 minutes and 15 hours, preferably between 15 minutes and 2 hours.

The amount of OH reagent added to the reaction medium depends on the level of moisture absorption to be achieved with the resulting polymer and the desired viscosity. The “OH reagent” can be introduced into the reaction medium at the beginning, in the middle or at the end of the reaction.
The addition of these materials at the end of the reaction is generally not economically advantageous as the reaction time increases. However, this can be used in some cases.

  The material obtained in this way can be subjected to additional processing, such as hydrogenation, decolorization, deodorization, and other functionalization, if the processing results in additional properties such as odor and color.

Reagent (conventional or heat treatment by dielectric heating)
In the present invention, the reagent can be selected from vegetable oils and polyterpenes, some of which are derived from the oils.

  As vegetable oils, among others, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil, olive oil, walnut oil, corn oil, soybean oil, flax oil, safflower oil, apricot oil, sweet tonsil oil, cannabis oil, grape seed oil, copra oil, Palm oil, cottonseed oil, babas oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, argan oil, thistle oil, pumpkin seed oil, raspberry oil, Karanja oil, neem oil, radish oil, brazil nut oil, castor oil, dehydrated castor oil, hazelnut Oil, wheat germ oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, tung oil, tall oil and the like.

  These vegetable oils and their derivatives can be pre-treated to increase their reactivity or, conversely, reduce their reactivity. The invention also relates to a single reagent as well as a reaction mixture comprising two or more components. These reaction mixtures can have each component in the same ratio, and can increase a specific component ratio.

  As unsaturated hydrocarbons, alone or in mixtures, and as non-limiting examples, alkenes such as one or more terpene hydrocarbons, ie one or more isoprene polymers, or isobutene, styrene, ethylene, butadiene , One or more polymers of isoprene and propene, and copolymers of these alkenes.

  Unsaturated fatty acids may be single or mixed, and non-limiting examples include one or more monounsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, myristic acid, petroselenic acid, erucic acid; for example, linoleic acid One or more polyunsaturated fatty acids such as, alpha and gamma linoleic acid, arachidonic acid; one or more acids including conjugated dienes or conjugated trienes such as isomers of licanoic acid, linoleic and linolenic acid; ricinoleic acid One or more acids containing one or more hydroxyl groups can be used.

  As unsaturated fatty acid esters, alone or as a mixture, and by way of non-limiting example, one or more esters obtained by esterification between a monoalcohol and / or polyol and at least one unsaturated fatty acid; wax Phospholipids; sphingolipids; glycolipids.

  Vegetable oils and fats, hydrocarbons and their derivatives are pre-treated to increase their reactivity or conversely reduce their reactivity, eg hydrogenation, hydroxylation, epoxidation, phosphilation, sulfone Can be used for

  Animal fats and oils can not be used suitably, especially sperm whale oil, dolphin oil, whale oil, seal oil, cocoon oil, cocoon oil, cocoon oil, liver oil, cow leg oil, pig and horse fat .

  In the present invention, the OH reagent having or generating a hydroxyl group can be selected from alcohols, amino alcohols, and epoxides.

  As the alcohol, primary, secondary and / or tertiary mono- or polyalcohol can be used alone or in a mixture. This includes, as non-limiting examples, methanol, ethanol, butanol, glycerol, glycol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, neopentyl glycol, pentaerythritol, vitamins (eg, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, retinol), sterols (phytosterols) ), Hemiacetal (eg, 1-ethoxy-1-ethanol) and analogs thereof.

  Examples of amino alcohols are simple substances or mixtures, and non-limiting examples include monoethanolamine MEA, diethanolamine DEA, triethanolamine TEA, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 1-amino-2-propanol, -2'-aminoethoxyethanol can be used.

As epoxides, alone or in mixture, and as non-limiting examples, 1,2-epoxy-9-decene, 3-4 epoxy-1-butene, 2-3 epoxy-1-propanol, 2-3 epoxy-1 Fatty esters obtained by esterification between propanol and fatty acids (eg Cardura E10®) can be used.
Alcohols, aminoalcohols, epoxides and their derivatives can be pre-treated to increase their reactivity or conversely reduce their reactivity, eg hydrogenation, hydroxylation, epoxidation, phosphilation, sulfone Can be used for

  Among the catalysts or additives, non-limiting examples include ordinary acidic catalysts (paratoluenesulfonic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, perchloric acid, etc.), ordinary basic catalysts (soda, potassium hydroxide, Alkali metal and alkaline earth metal alcoholates, sodium acetate, triethylamine, pyridine derivatives, etc.), Amberlite (R), Amberlyst (R), Purolite (R), Dowex (R), Lewatit (R) It shall mean type acidic and / or basic resins, zeolites and enzymes, carbon black, activated carbon fibers.

  The present invention adds 0.1 to 30%, preferably 0.1 to 6% "OH reagent", preferably 1 or 3%, in particular 0.1 to 5, preferably 1 or It relates to a method characterized in that 3% glycerol is added and the OH reagent is selected from glycerol, sorbitol, MEA, polyglycerol, vitamin C or E.

  The following are specific and non-limiting examples of the present invention.

Examples The following examples show compounds in which the water absorption capacity of polymerized bases formed from unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, unsaturated hydrocarbons, or mixtures of unsaturated derivatives thereof have or generate hydroxyl groups. It is possible to reveal the increase by adding to the reaction medium.

I. Moisture absorption Emulsification procedure The water absorption capacity test can be realized in two ways.
1-Emulsify by heating to 60 ° C using a magnet (Procedure 1)
2-Emulsify by heating to 60 ° C using turbine fins (Procedure 2)

a-Procedure 1
Necessary equipment:
-250 mL beaker-Magnetic stirrer with heating plate-50 mL burette procedure:
-Weigh the mass m1 of the lanolin substitute in the beaker-Heat the product to 60 ° C while stirring (magnet) using a heating device-Burette with calibrated cold water until the product does not absorb water -Record the mass m2 of absorbed water-Calculate the water absorption capacity ((m2 / m1) x 100)
-Regularly check the stability of the emulsion This procedure gives a clear understanding of the efficiency of the product.

b-Procedure 2
Procedure 2 is more accurate and more complete than Procedure 1.
Equipment required:
-Stainless steel beaker (100-250-500 mL)
-Water bath-HEIDOLPH stirrer, 280-2200 rpm (0 to 10 steps), with anti-condensation turbine-Pipette-Spatula-METLER TOLEDO MP220 pH meter-HETTICH UNIVERSAL centrifuge (4000 U per minute at 100%)
Required reagents:
-1 to 0.1% blue aqueous solution-Kathon CG solution-pH = 7, 4 and 11 solution procedure:
Weigh the oil in a 1-500 mL stainless beaker (m1)
2- Heat the oil to 60 ° C. in a water bath. Stir with 3-4. Weigh the water in a 4-250 mL stainless beaker (m2, 200% here)
5-Add 3 drops of blue solution and 3 drops of Kathon CG to water 6-Heat water to 80 ° C (thermometer) in another water bath 7-Add water dropwise with pipette 8-Emulsification Then, quickly add the remaining water while stirring at 6. 9- Wait for 5 minutes after the addition to finish emulsification. 10- Cool the emulsion in a cold water bath while stirring with a spatula. 11- Emulsion with a calibrated pH meter. 12-Confirm the conductivity of 12-Centrifuge for 15 minutes at 4000 U (100%) per minute 13-When finished, observe the presence or absence of phase difference (confirm with blue liquid)
Run the stability test over time in a dryer at 14-40 and 50 ° C.

c-water absorption capacity obtained by procedure 2, expressed by CAE (1) =%, water absorption capacity obtained by procedure 1, CAE (2) =%, water absorption capacity obtained by procedure 2, S (1) = procedure expressed in days The stability of the emulsion obtained by 1 S (2) = the number of days, the stability of the emulsion obtained by procedure 2 R (2) = the release of water after centrifugation, expressed as presence or absence

2-Effect of glycerol addition and viscosity on water absorption capacity The substances listed in the table below are obtained from the heat treatment of the same unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated fatty acid esters and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons and / or their unsaturated derivatives. It is a thing.
Only the ratio of each compound in the mixture is varied so that the desired viscosity is obtained at the end of the synthesis.

  The aim is to achieve the following two criteria: a water absorption capacity of over 200% and the stability of the formed emulsion over time.

When no OH reagent is added, polymers of unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, unsaturated hydrocarbons, or unsaturated derivatives thereof absorb up to 80% of their weight.
The formed superposition lattice structure makes it possible to store water. However, its water absorption capacity is limited compared to lanolin. In addition, water is released in less than a day.
Similarly, it is important to point out that water is less likely to penetrate into complex polymerization lattices (eg CM91 / 00).

  Glycerol is added to the initial mixture before starting the synthesis.

At this time, the obtained product absorbs water up to at least twice its weight.
The formed emulsion is stable at room temperature except for low viscosity products (600 and 1000 cP at 40 ° C.). In order for these products to be stable, the amount of water absorption must be reduced. Their water absorption capacity is between 80 and 200%.

  The selection of the product and its viscosity depends on the desired use and effect. The higher the product viscosity, the thicker the resulting emulsion.

3-Emulsion Stability The formed emulsion is subjected to several cycles of “High Heat Treatment at 40 ° C.-Centrifuge” to control its stability.
The results obtained are shown in the table below.

A product with a viscosity in excess of 1000 cP (at 40 ° C.) absorbs more than twice its weight of water and forms a true emulsion.
These emulsions are stable as opposed to lanolin, which releases all of its moisture in 15 days after being placed in a 40 ° C. dryer.
Thus, these lanolin substitutes have a water absorption capacity comparable to lanolin, but their retention is better.

Effect of the 4-glycerol ratio The products shown in the table below are the same mixtures of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated fatty acid esters and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons and / or their unsaturated derivatives (product properties and The ratio is the same).
Only the amount of glycerol introduced into the mixture is different

The water absorption capacity increases with the proportion of glycerol.
The emulsion formed is not stable. As before, the product does not have sufficient viscosity. That is, the polymerized base does not generate sufficient stickiness.
It should be noted that the viscosity of a given mixture decreases with the proportion of glycerol.

5—Comparison of absorption capacity of different reagents The products shown in the table below are the same mixtures of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated fatty acid esters and / or unsaturated hydrocarbons and / or their unsaturated derivatives (product Of the same properties and proportions).

  Only compounds that have or generate hydroxyl groups will change. The amount added to the reaction medium will vary depending on the hydroxyl groups of the OH reagent that may react during the synthesis and those that do not react due to steric hindrance.

II-Relaxation, moisturizing and storage properties of sunflower oil polymerized without compounding 1-OH Applicants filed French patent application 9813770 and WO 00/26265 (PCT / FR99 / 02646) .

  In this patent, the Applicant has shown the benefits of a hand cream that contains all or part of the ingredients replaced with polymerized sunflower oil (HTP).

The advantages of the modified formulation are as follows.
-It is not necessary to apply too much during application-High softness (softens skin)
-Forms a barrier for skin hydration

Polymerized sunflower oil is advantageous to cosmetic manufacturers for the following reasons.
-Although the ratio of water is increased, the softening power of the blend is higher-HTP has the ability to impart viscosity-HTP is a co-emulsifier (thickener)

2-Applications using emulsions The table below shows the formulation of the multifunctional nutrition cream.

Formulations based on CM68 / 00 and CM72 / 00 provide cosmetic properties that are more advantageous than controls as follows.
-Rapid penetration, albeit slightly inferior-Soft and smooth final sensation on the skin-Reduced oily sensation

3- Other applications

Conclusion These examples show the effectiveness of these products. That is, these products are true substitutes for lanolin.

  These products have the ability to absorb moisture up to at least twice their weight and have a retention capacity that exceeds that of lanolin.

  Like lanolin, they are relaxed, moisturized and occluded. They soften and protect the skin and prevent it from drying out.

  The selection of the product and its viscosity depends on the desired use and effect. The higher the viscosity of the material and the formation of a polymerized lattice capable of storing water, the thicker the resulting emulsion and the more stable over time.

  The amount of OH reagent added to the medium depends on the desired water absorption capacity.

  The present invention also relates to all embodiments and variations that are directly available to those skilled in the art.

French patent application 9813770 International Publication No. 00/26265 Pamphlet

Claims (1)

  A bowl-shaped lanolin substitute having a viscosity at 40 ° C. exceeding 1000 cP, which absorbs water, aqueous solution or suspension up to at least twice its weight and has a water retention capacity that exceeds lanolin over time. Compounds having or generating mobile hydrogen, hereinafter referred to as “OH reagent”, in a normal or oxygen controlled atmospheric atmosphere with or without a catalyst so as to form a stable true emulsion. 1 to 30% and unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, unsaturated hydrocarbons, or unsaturated derivatives thereof 70 to 99.9% obtained by heat treatment, with or without catalyst In a normal or controlled atmosphere of oxygen with unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, unsaturated hydrocarbons or unsaturated derivatives thereof and having hydroxyl groups Characterized in that it is obtained by semi-synthesis from a mixture of Luke generating compounds, lanolin substitutes.