JP2014015684A - Clothing composed of cylindrical warp knitted fabric, and method of manufacturing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a clothing composed of a cylindrical warp knitted fabric free from compressed feeling, tight feeling, and twitching feeling of a wearer, capable of restraining sagging, and excellent in fitness to a body.SOLUTION: The clothing is composed of the cylindrical warp knitted fabric constituted by knitting parts of top and reverse knitted fabrics a1, a2 into a cylinder with a pattern 1 viewed from one side face of the right and left of the clothing having a crotch part. In the clothing, expanded knitted fabric parts are respectively provided at parts corresponding to front and back crotch parts 2a, 2b of the pattern 1.

Description

  The present invention relates to a garment made of a cylindrical warp knitted fabric partially knitted into a cylindrical shape by a warp knitting machine having two rows of needle beds, and a method for manufacturing the same.

  In recent years, as a garment made of a cylindrical warp knitted fabric that is knitted at least partially into a cylindrical shape by a warp knitting machine such as a double raschel machine having two rows of needle beds and having two rows of jacquard guide bars, Many items such as pants with good fit, shorts, girdle, shirts, outerwear, etc. are used. Recently, many functional products have been developed that use elastic yarn as a knitting yarn for clothing and take advantage of its expansion / contraction effect to improve body shape and improve muscle support functions (improve tightening force).

  At this time, a so-called covering yarn in which polyurethane yarn is covered with polyester yarn or nylon yarn is used for knitting yarn guided by two rows of jacquard guide bars, and polyester yarn and various processed yarns are used for the ground structure. By using this, various functional requirements are met. For example, in the case of pants having a crotch part, the swell of the hip part can be adjusted by adjusting the length and shape by combining the size of the opening when knitting into a cylindrical shape, and the characteristics of the elastic yarn It is organized so that the length can be adjusted using the.

  However, in the case of pants having a crotch part, the length, length, and length of muscles etc. depending on the wearer should be applied to both pelvis from the upper abdomen upper end to the crotch part and the upper hip part upper end part to the pelvis. There are bulges with different shapes, etc., and the body shape varies. For this reason, if the conventional method is used as it is, the shape, size, length, and the like along the body shape of the body cannot be created in the integral tubular knitted fabric.

  For example, in Patent Document 1, in the case of knitting clothing such as shorts, the pattern of the clothing is viewed from the left and right sides, from the upper abdomen upper end to the crotch part on the front body side, and the back body side also from the upper hip part to the crotch part. The pattern shape center lines are knitted without tying the front and back knitted fabrics from the crotch part to the foot part, and after the pattern is excised, from the crotch part to the toe part. A technique is disclosed in which the front and back knitted fabrics that are not connected to each other are sewn into a cylindrical shape to form a foot portion.

  However, with this technology alone, the shape and length of the front and back crotch lines on the front body side and the back body side are the same, and when worn, the hips on the back body side are affected by movements such as bending, stretching and bending movements of the body. It may be pulled down in the lower direction at the side, and the wear will not be satisfactory.

  Therefore, there is a need for a clothing made of a tubular warp knitted fabric that does not give a feeling of cramping (compression) or a feeling of tension to the whole body or a part of the body movement (exercise) and has a fit.

JP 2010-196185 A

  The present invention can be easily manufactured in a pattern shape adapted to the wearer's body shape, as a garment composed of a cylindrical warp knitted fabric that is partly knitted by a warp knitting machine having two rows of needle beds, The present invention provides clothing made of a cylindrical warp knitted fabric that does not give the wearer a feeling of cramping (squeezing) or tightness, can suppress a slippage, and has a good fit to the body. A method is provided.

  The present invention solves the above-mentioned problem, and a part of the front and back knitted fabrics is a cylinder in a pattern knitted by a warp knitting machine having two rows of needle beds and viewed from the left and right sides of the clothing having a crotch portion. It is a cylindrical warp knitted fabric knitted in a shape, and is characterized in that an outwardly extended knitted fabric portion is provided in a portion corresponding to the front and back crotch portion in the pattern.

  As a result, by having an outwardly extended knitted fabric portion at a portion corresponding to the front and back crotch portion, the crotch portion formed by the front and back crotch portions can be adjusted to the body in the sewn clothing, and a tight feeling is felt. Can be relaxed.

  The clothing made of the above-described tubular warp knitted fabric is formed by connecting the front and back knitted fabrics at the front and back crotch lines above the front and back crotch portions in the pattern, and forming the upper portions of the front and back knitted fabrics as the body portions of the cylindrical knitting. Shall be made.

  In the apparel made of the tubular warp knitted fabric, the pattern line at the upper end of the front and back knitted fabric in the pattern is inclined with respect to the waist line so as to gradually increase from the front body side to the back body side of the pattern. Can be. Accordingly, it is possible to prevent the lower body side from being displaced due to the movement of the body when worn.

  Moreover, in the clothing composed of the above-described tubular warp knitted fabric, the ratio of the length of the waist line in the pattern and the foot root line including the extended knitted fabric portion of the front and back crotch portion is 1: 1.05 to 1: 1.3 is preferable.

  Further, in the garment made of the above-described tubular warp knitted fabric, the present invention is such that the ratio of the length of the front rise line and the back rise line in the pattern is 1: 1.1 to 1: 1.5. It is preferable to do this.

  In the present invention, it is preferable that the back crotch line in the pattern has a curved shape bulging outward.

  Furthermore, the manufacturing method of the clothing which consists of the cylindrical warp knitted fabric of the present invention knitted the front and back knitted fabrics respectively in a pattern as viewed from the left and right sides of the clothing having a crotch portion by a warp knitting machine having two rows of needle beds. The upper part of the front and back knitted fabric is formed as a body part of the cylindrical knitting by knitting at the front crotch line and the rear crotch line above the front and back crotch part in the pattern, and the front and back crotch part in the pattern Knitted so as to form an outwardly expanded knitted fabric part at the part corresponding to each other, cut along the outline of the pattern after knitting, and sew the necessary parts including the front and back crotch parts into clothing It is characterized by.

  According to the garment made of the tubular warp knitted fabric and the manufacturing method thereof of the present invention, for example, the garment having the crotch part such as pants, shorts, girdle, etc. can be constituted by an integral tubular warp knitted fabric suitable for the body, and easy to manufacture. In addition, excessive squeezing by the knitted fabric is reduced, the feeling of tightening (tightening) is reduced, and the wearing feeling is improved. In addition, the body shape can be firmly held. Therefore, it is possible to obtain a feeling of comfort and fit without any sense of incongruity, and since it is an integrally molded warp knitting, it is possible to reduce the number of sewing locations and provide a low-cost product.

It is a schematic explanatory drawing of the principal part of the warp knitting machine used for knitting of the clothes of the present invention. It is a schematic plan view which shows the pattern on the organization of the clothing of the Example of this invention. It is a schematic perspective view after cutting of clothing same as the above. It is the schematic perspective view (a) and the schematic plan view (b) before sewing of clothing same as the above. It is the schematic front view (a) after the sewing of clothing same as the above, the schematic side view (b), and the schematic plan view (c). It is an organization chart showing an example of the knitting organization of the front and back knitted fabric. It is an organization chart which shows an example of the knitting structure | tissue in the case of connecting and knitting the front and back knitted fabric same as the above.

  Hereinafter, the clothing and manufacturing method which consist of the cylindrical warp knitted fabric of this invention are demonstrated concretely with reference to the Example shown on drawing.

  The clothing made of the tubular warp knitted fabric of the present invention is clothing having a crotch portion such as pants, shorts, girdle, etc. (the figure shows the case of pants), and as will be described later, two rows of needle beds shown in FIG. 2, preferably a warp knitting machine having two rows of jacquard guide bars controlled by a jacquard mechanism.

  FIG. 2 shows a product pattern 1 on the knitting of the garment 10 such as the pants shown in FIG. 5 having a crotch portion. This pattern 1 is a pattern particularly viewed from the left and right sides of the garment 10 to be knitted, and the front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2 are the portions corresponding to the left and right sides of the product, respectively, due to the two rows of needle beds of the warp knitting machine. Are knitted with the pattern 1, and part of the front and back knitted fabrics a1, a2 in the pattern 1 are knitted and knitted into a cylindrical shape. Usually, the front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2 are connected to each other at the front crotch line 3 (the front body side edge) and the back crotch line 4 (the back body side edge) above the front and rear crotch portions 2a and 2b in the pattern a. By knitting, the upper part of the pattern is knitted so as to form the body part 11 of the cylindrical knitting, and the front and back crotch parts 2a, 2b and the lower and upper knitted fabrics a1, a2 are knitted in an unconnected state. Thus, the crotch portion 12 and the left and right foot portions 13 of the garment 10 are formed by sewing after knitting.

  In the case of the garment 10 according to the present invention, the portions corresponding to the front and back crotch portions 2a and 2b of the front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2 in the pattern 1, that is, the portions corresponding to the front and rear portions of the base of the foot, are respectively approximately outward. Expanded knitted fabric portions 5a and 5b that protrude in a triangular mountain shape and are provided are provided. In the garment 10 that is a product after sewing, the lower portion of the crotch portion 12, that is, the crotch portion is provided with a margin (margin) and is bent. I try to ease the feeling.

  The shape of the expanded knitted fabric portions 5a and 5b of the front crotch portion 2a and the rear crotch portion 2b is for reducing the cramped feeling of the crotch portion in the garment 10 that is formed by cutting out and sewing unnecessary portions outside the pattern after knitting. The shape is considered. For example, the expansion angle α3 on the distal end side of the expanded knitted fabric portions 5a and 5b that expands in a substantially triangular mountain shape is in the range of 30 degrees to 150 degrees according to the use for competition, exercise, casual use, or the body. May be selected as appropriate.

  When the spread angle α3 of the tip is smaller than 30 degrees, the area of the tip becomes small, and a cramped feeling is generated at the crotch. On the other hand, when the spread angle α3 exceeds 150 degrees, there is room in the crotch, but sagging occurs.

  The shape of the expanded knitted fabric portions 5a and 5b and the size of the tip portion are not particularly limited, and may be set in consideration of distortion, work efficiency in sewing, and the like. It is preferable to form a mountain shape since the sewing operation becomes easy during sewing and distortion hardly occurs.

  In the pattern 1, the pattern line 6 that forms the upper ends of the front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2, that is, the upper end of the body portion 11 by tubular knitting, is not a conventional horizontal horizontal straight line, but the rear side from the front body side of the pattern 1 It has a shape that is inclined at a predetermined inclination angle α1 with respect to the waistline 7 that is horizontal so as to gradually increase toward the body side. Although the said inclination | tilt angle (alpha) 1 can be set suitably, it is usually larger than 0 degree and it is preferable to set to 30 degree | times, More preferably, it is the range of 3-25 degree | times. When the angle α1 is 0 degree or less, the length of the front rise line 3 and the back rise line 4 are the same or the length of the back rise line 4 is shortened. There is a risk that the lower part of the waist will be pulled down and the waist area will be exposed. Further, if the angle α1 exceeds 30 degrees, there is a margin on the back body side, but it is too long, and there is a risk of causing bumps, wrinkles, distortion and sagging around the hip.

  In addition, the lengths L1 and L2 of the waistline 7 in the pattern 1 and the foot root line (line in which the span is set) 8 including the extended knitted fabric portions 5a and 5b of the front and rear crotch portions 2a and 2b are as follows: What is necessary is just to set suitably according to the size of clothing, and a wearer's body shape, but it is preferable that the ratio (L1: L2) of the length is 1: 1.05 to 1: 1.3. That is, when the length L1 of the waist line 7 is 1, the length L2 of the foot root line 8 is preferably set in the range of 1.05 to 1.3, more preferably 1.05. The range is 1.2.

  As described above, by setting the length of the foot line 8 including the waist line 7 and the extended knitted fabric parts 5a and 5b, the crotch part is sewn when the front and rear crotch parts 2a and 2b are sewn. 2 can be adjusted, and there is a margin from the front crotch part 2a to the lower hip part of the rear crotch part 2b, and the feeling of cramping (compression) at the crotch is reduced when worn.

  When the ratio of the length of the waist line 7 and the foot base line 8 is less than 1: 1.05, there is almost no allowance for the expanded knitted fabric portions 5a and 5b of the front and rear crotch portions 2a and 2b, so I feel cramped (compressed) and feel uncomfortable. Further, if the ratio of the length of the waist line 7 and the foot base line 8 is greater than 1: 1.3, the expanded knitted fabric portions 5a and 5b allow for a crotch, but the margin portion bumps. There is a risk of sagging. Therefore, it is preferable to set the length ratio within the range.

  The ratio of the length of the front rise line 3 and the back rise line 4 in the pattern 1 is such that the length of the back rise line 4 is 1.1 to 1 when the length of the front rise line 3 is 1. A range of 5 is preferred. That is, if the length ratio is smaller than 1.1, there is a risk that the back body will be displaced during front-rear bending and stretching movements. If the length ratio exceeds 1.5, the shape of the hip peripheral portion may be Deforms and causes wrinkles and bumps, and not only looks bad, but also wears off.

  Further, in the pattern 1, the rear rise line 4 that is an edge from the upper hip part to the lower hip part on the back body side has a curved shape that bulges outward, and the bulge angle α2 from the upper end of the rear rise line 4 Is preferably set to an angle in the range of 60 degrees or less, that is, greater than 0 degrees and up to 60 degrees. A more preferred bulge angle α2 is 10 to 30 degrees. The bulge angle α2 is a straight line (auxiliary straight line) connecting the perpendicular line from the upper end of the rear rise line 4 to the waist line 7 and the intersection of the upper end of the rear rise line 4 and the waist line on the rear rise line. The angle between the two. The bulge angle α2 can be appropriately set in accordance with the wearer's body shape. However, if the angle is 0 ° or less, a feeling of pressure is felt around the hips, and there is a risk that the displacement will be lowered. On the contrary, when the bulging angle α2 is larger than 60 degrees, there is a margin in the hip periphery, but there is a risk that it will become loose and sag, and on the contrary, the appearance may deteriorate.

  As described above, by bulging the back leg line 4, there is room for the hip part of the garment 10, and there is an effect of preventing the slipping down. It is possible to reduce the deviation of the back body side.

  The garment 10 made of the cylindrical warp knitted fabric of the pattern 1 is formed into a cylinder by a warp knitting machine such as a double raschel machine having two rows of needle beds shown in FIG. 1 and having two rows of jacquard guide bars. The main part is knitting. At this time, the knitting machine gauge can be appropriately selected in accordance with the clothing product within a range of 14 to 32 gauge.

  The knitting yarn used for the garment 10 may be appropriately selected according to the purpose within the range of 22 to 440 dtex, and the material of the knitting yarn is not particularly limited, and nylon, polyester, rayon, polypropylene, etc. The synthetic fiber yarns, natural spun yarns such as cotton and wool, and split fiber functional yarns may be appropriately selected according to the product. Polyurethane elastic yarn, nylon twisted yarn, covering yarn, etc. may be used.

  The knitting density of the knitted fabric used for the apparel can be appropriately set in the range of 14 to 100 courses / inch and 14 to 80 wells / inch depending on the application.

  The warp knitting machine in FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a double raschel machine (RDPJ6 / 2N manufactured by KARL MAYER) having two rows of needle beds and two rows of jacquard guide bars.

  In FIG. 1, N1 and N2 are front and rear knitting needles arranged in parallel in the knitting machine width direction, T1 and T2 are front and rear needle hooks (trick plates), and Y1 to Y6 are guide bars L-1 to L-6. The knitting yarn passed through the guide portions G1 to G6 is shown. B1 to B6 indicate beams of the respective knitting yarns. The knitting yarns Y1 and Y2 supplied from the beams B1 and B2 of the knitting machine are threaded through the guides G1 and G2 of the guide bars L-1 and L-2 and knitted with the front knitting needle N1 ( It becomes a surface knitted fabric a1). Further, the knitting yarns Y5 and Y6 supplied from the beams B5 and B6 are threaded through the guides G5 and G6 of the guide bars L-5 and L-6, and are knitted by the rear knitting needle N2, and the ground structure of the rear knitted fabric. (Back knitted fabric a2). The knitting yarns Y3 and Y4 supplied from the beams B3 and B4 are passed through the guides G3 and G4 of the jacquard guide bars L-3 and L-4 having the jacquard mechanism, and the front knitted fabric (front knitted fabric) and On the rear knitted fabric (back knitted fabric), knitting a jacquard knitting structure, knitting to give a desired design pattern, and along the outline of the pattern 1 of the garment 10 to be manufactured, at necessary places. The knits are knitted so as to bind the front and back knitted fabrics (front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2). Depending on the knitted fabric structure of the garment 10 to be manufactured, that is, the structure of both the knitted fabrics (front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2), the knitting may be performed without using the guide bars L-1 and L-6.

  FIG. 6 shows the knitting structure of the knitted fabric portion where the front and back knitted fabrics (which become the front and back knitted fabrics) are not joined. The ground structures of both the front and rear knitted fabrics are knitted by combining the jacquard structure based on the Denbi knitting so as to form a part of the ground structure by -3 and L-4. FIG. 7 shows an example of a knitting structure that joins both the front and rear knitted fabrics (front and back knitted fabrics). The jacquard guide bars L-3 and L-4 are used to make denby knitting as in FIG. While knitting the jacquard structure on the basis of the above, knitting is performed so that both the front and rear knitted fabrics are connected at the required course position from the front and back one knitting needle side to the other knitting needle side. 6 and 7, F represents a course knitted with the front knitting needle, and B represents a course knitted with the rear knitting needle.

  In the case of the present invention, as described above, in the pattern 1 of FIG. 2 in which the clothing 10 such as the pants to be manufactured is viewed from the left and right sides, the front rise line 3 from the upper end on the front body side to the front crotch portion 2a. At the same time, the front and back knitted fabrics are connected and knitted, and at the same time, the rear crotch line 4 from the upper end on the back body side (the upper end of the hip) to the rear crotch part 2b below the hips is connected and knitted, and the The upper part is knitted so as to constitute a cylindrical body part 11. At this time, the pattern line 6 at the upper end corresponding to the upper opening of the clothing 10 as a product is knitted without being connected. Further, the front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2 are not connected from the expanded knitted fabric portions 5a and 5b in the portions corresponding to the front and rear crotch portions 2a and 2b to the tip of the lower portion corresponding to the foot portion 13 along the shape of the predetermined pattern 1. Organize with.

  In the above description, for the sake of convenience, the single pattern 1 has been described with reference to FIG. 2. However, in actual manufacture, the same pattern 1 as described above has one or more in the knitting width direction. They are knitted continuously in the knitting direction at predetermined intervals. Further, in the outer knitted fabric portion of the pattern 1, it is preferable that the knitted fabric portion along the outer shape line of the pattern has a knitted structure that can be easily cut after knitting.

  After knitting with the predetermined pattern 1 as described above, cutting is performed along the outline of each pattern 1 to cut out unnecessary portions outside, and cut into the tubular knitted fabric of the pattern 1 (FIG. 3). As shown in FIG. 4, the front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2 are placed in the center in the width direction so that the front groin line 3 and the rear groin line 4 are positioned at the center of the front and back body parts. Bend with. In this state, as shown in FIG. 5, the front and rear edges of the front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2 below the tops of the expanded knitted fabric portions 5a and 5b in the front and rear crotch portions 2a and 2b are formed in a cylindrical shape. The front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2 corresponding to the foot portions below the front and rear crotch portions 2a and 2b are respectively sewn in a cylindrical shape to form the foot portion 13. Then, the front and back crotch portions 2a and 2b are continuously connected by sewing and connecting the front end portion of the expanded knitted fabric portion 5a of the front crotch portion 2a and the front end portion of the expanded knitted fabric portion 5b of the rear crotch portion 2b near the crotch central portion. Let The front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2 are sewn so that the edges of the front and back knitted fabrics a1 and a2 are connected to each other at the front and rear crotch portions 2a and 2b. . As a result, as shown in FIG. 5, the pattern line 6 at the upper end becomes an open waist portion 14, and the space between the front crotch line 3 and the back crotch line 4 becomes a cylindrical body 11, and the lower front and back crotch The portions 2a and 2b become the crotch portion 12 connected at the top portions of the expanded knitted fabric portions 5a and 5b.

  In the garment 10 having the crotch portion 12 such as pants, shorts, girdle, etc. obtained as described above, in the knitting pattern 1, the extended knitted fabric portions 5a, 5b are provided in the front and rear crotch portions 2a, 2b. As a result, there is a margin in the lower part, the sewing work described above is facilitated, and as a garment, the feeling of cramping (pressing) can be eased, the feeling of clinging is small, and the feeling of wearing is good.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention further in detail, this invention is not limited to a following example.

  In addition, each evaluation, such as a feeling of wearing of the crotch part, a feeling of wearing under the abdomen, and a feeling of wearing of the hip part in the examples, is an evaluation of the wearer when five men and women monitors are actually worn, and the following criteria Judged according to. Further, the wearer also determined whether or not there was a shift in the rear body. The judgments of 10 people were tabulated and the most common judgments that exceeded the majority in each evaluation item are summarized in Table 1.

○: There is a feeling of fitting, and there is no feeling of cramping or looseness (bumpiness). △: There is a feeling of slight cramping or looseness (bumpiness). [Example 1]
Using a double raschel machine (RDPJ6 / 2N-24E manufactured by KARL MAYER) with two rows of jacquard guide bars, 56 dtex / 24f processed yarn is used for the guide bars L-2 and L-5, and the jacquard guide For the bars L-3 and L-4, 44dtex / 4f polyurethane yarn is used as the core yarn, 44dtex / 34f nylon yarn is covered at 600 times / m, and elastic covering yarn is used. A knitted fabric with strong expansion and contraction due to a change in the jacquard structure is formed by combining the chain knitting of the guide bars L-2 and L-5 in FIG. 6 and the denby knitting with the jacquard guide bars L-3 and L-4. A knitted fabric with weak stretch was applied along with the design in the course and well direction and knitted. At this time, the finished density of the knitted fabric was 60 courses / 40 wells.

  The knitted pattern 1 is knitted so that the angle between the upper end pattern line and the waist line is 10 degrees and the rear part is high, the bulging angle α2 hitting the hip periphery is 20 degrees, and the length of the front and rear rise lines The ratio was 1: 1.2.

  The expansion angle α3 at the front end side of the triangular mountain shape of the expanded knitted fabric portion at the front and back crotch portions corresponding to the front and rear portions of the foot root line is 95 degrees, and the ratio of the length of the waist line to the foot root line is 1: 1. It was set to 1.

  After knitting, cut the front and back knitted fabrics along the outline of the pattern, cut off the unnecessary parts outside the pattern, then separate the front and back knitted fabrics with the front crotch line at the center of the front body and the back crotch line at the back Bend at the center in the width direction so that the lower portions of the front and back knitted fabrics form the left and right foot portions, respectively, in the center of the side (FIG. 4). In this state, sewing is performed so that the edges of the front and back crotch parts of the front and back knitted fabrics are joined, and both side edges of the knitted fabric part below the front and back crotch parts are sewn to form the left and right feet in a cylindrical shape To do.

  At this time, the pants illustrated in FIG. 4 were completed by connecting the base portions continuous to both legs of the front and rear crotch portions. Table 1 shows the results of evaluation of the pants of the completed garment of the present invention with respect to the feeling of wearing at the crotch part, the feeling of wearing under the abdomen, the feeling of wearing the hip part, the presence or absence of slippage of the back body, and the like.

[Example 2]
Knitting and knitting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the expansion angle α3 of the triangular mountain-shaped tip portion of the expanded knitted fabric portion at the front and rear crotch portions corresponding to the front and rear portions of the foot root line of Example 1 was set to 30 degrees. Then, similarly, it cut out along the outline of the pattern, sewed it to make pants, and performed the same evaluation as above. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 3
Knitting and knitting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the expansion angle α3 of the triangular mountain-shaped tip portion of the expanded knitted fabric portion at the front and back crotch portions corresponding to the front and rear portions of the foot root line of Example 1 is set to 150 degrees. Then, similarly, it cut out along the outline of the pattern, sewed it to make pants, and performed the same evaluation as above. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 4
Using a double russell machine (RDPJ6 / 2N-24E manufactured by KARL MAYER) with two rows of jacquard guide bars, using 84 dtex / 36f polyester processed yarn for the guide bars L-2 and L-5, jacquard The guide bars L-3 and L-4 are made of 44dtex / 4f polyurethane yarn as core yarn and 44dtex / 34f nylon yarn covered at 600 times / m. Is a ground structure by combining the chain knitting of the guide bars L-2 and L-5 in FIG. 6 and the denby knitting with the jacquard guide bars L-3 and L-4, and the knitting which is strong in expansion and contraction due to the change of the jacquart structure A knitted fabric with weak ground and expansion and contraction was given along with the design in the course and well direction and knitted. At this time, the finished density of the knitted fabric was 70 courses / 45 wells.

  In addition, the angle α1 of the upper end pattern line with respect to the waist line in the pattern of FIG. 2 is knitted so that the rear portion is high at 20 degrees, the bulge angle α2 of the rear rise line hitting the hip periphery is 45 degrees, and the front rise and back The ratio of the length of the crotch was knitted at 1: 1.3.

  Further, the expansion angle α3 on the protruding end side of the expanded portion of the front and rear crotch portion was 85 degrees, and the ratio of the length of the waist line and the foot root line was 1: 1.2.

  After knitting, in the same manner as in Example 1, the pants were cut and sewn along the outline of the pattern, and the same evaluation as above was performed. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 5
Using a double russell machine (RDPJ6 / 2N-24E manufactured by KARL MAYER) with two rows of jacquard guide bars, using 84 dtex / 36f polyester processed yarn for the guide bars L-2 and L-5, jacquard The guide bars L-3 and L-4 are made of 44dtex / 4f polyurethane yarn as core yarn and 44dtex / 34f nylon yarn covered at 600 times / m. Is a ground structure by combining the chain knitting of the guide bars L-2 and L-5 in FIG. 6 and the denby knitting with the jacquard guide bars L-3 and L-4, and the knitting which is strong in expansion and contraction due to the change of the jacquart structure A knitted fabric with weak ground and expansion and contraction was given along with the design in the course and well direction and knitted. The finished density was 75 courses / 42 wells.

  2 is knitted so that the inclination angle α1 of the upper end pattern line is 15 degrees and the rear is higher, the bulging angle α2 hitting the hip periphery is 30 degrees, and the length of the front and rear rise lines is The ratio was 1: 1.4.

  The expansion angle α3 of the expanded knitted fabric portion in the front and rear crotch portions was 60 degrees, and the ratio of the length of the waist line and the foot root line was 1: 1.3.

  After knitting, in the same manner as in Example 1, the pants were cut and sewn along the outline of the pattern, and the same evaluation as above was performed. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 6
Using a double russell machine (RDPJ6 / 2N-24E manufactured by KARL MAYER) with two rows of jacquard guide bars, using 84 dtex / 36f polyester processed yarn for the guide bars L-2 and L-5, jacquard The guide bars L-3 and L-4 are made of 44dtex / 4f polyurethane yarn as core yarn and 44dtex / 34f nylon yarn covered at 600 times / m. Is a ground structure by combining the chain knitting of the guide bars L-2 and L-5 in FIG. 6 and the denby knitting with the jacquard guide bars L-3 and L-4, and the knitting which is strong in expansion and contraction due to the change of the jacquart structure A knitted fabric with weak ground and expansion and contraction was given along with the design in the course and well direction and knitted. The finished density was 70 courses / 45 wells.

  2 is knitted so that the inclination angle α1 of the pattern line at the upper end is 30 degrees and the rear is high, the bulging angle α2 hitting the periphery of the hip is 40 degrees, and the length of the front rise line and the rear rise line is The ratio was 1: 1.4.

  The expansion angle α3 of the expanded knitted fabric portion at the front and rear crotch portions was 160 degrees, and the ratio of the length of the waist line to the base of the foot portion was 1: 1.4.

  After knitting, in the same manner as in Example 1, the pants were cut and sewn along the outline of the pattern, and the same evaluation as above was performed. The results are shown in Table 1.

[Comparative Example 1]
Using a double russell machine (RDPJ6 / 2N-24E manufactured by KARL MAYER) with two rows of jacquard guide bars, using 84 dtex / 36f polyester processed yarn for the guide bars L-2 and L-5, jacquard The guide bars L-3 and L-4 are made of 44dtex / 4f polyurethane yarn as core yarn and 44dtex / 34f nylon yarn covered at 600 times / m. Is a ground structure by combining the chain knitting of the guide bars L-2 and L-5 in FIG. 6 and the denby knitting with the jacquard guide bars L-3 and L-4, and the knitting which is strong in expansion and contraction due to the change of the jacquart structure A knitted fabric with weak ground and expansion and contraction was given along with the design in the course and well direction and knitted. The finished density was 60 courses / 40 wells.

  The pattern line at the upper end in the pattern of FIG. 2 is knitted so that the inclination angle α1 is 0 degrees and the front and rear heights are the same, the bulge angle α2 hitting the hip periphery is 0 degrees, there is no bulge, and The extended knitted fabric part was not knitted. After knitting, in the same manner as in Example 1, cut and sewn along the outline of the pattern to make pants, and the same evaluation as above was performed. The results are shown in Table 1.

  DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 ... Product pattern, 2a ... Front crotch part, 2b ... Rear crotch part, 3 ... Front crotch line, 4 ... Rear crotch line, 5a, 5b ... Expansion knitted fabric part, 6 ... Pattern line, 7 ... Waist line, 8 ... Foot root line, 10 ... clothing, 11 ... trunk, 12 ... crotch, 13 ... foot, α1 ... inclination angle, α2 ... swelling angle, α3 ... spreading angle, a1, a2 ... front and back knitted fabrics.

Claims (7)

From a cylindrical warp knitted fabric that is knitted by a warp knitting machine having two rows of needle beds and that is formed by knitting a part of the front and back knitted fabric in a cylindrical shape with a pattern resembling the left and right sides of clothing having a crotch portion Clothing,
An apparel made of a cylindrical warp knitted fabric, wherein outwardly extended knitted fabric portions are respectively provided at portions corresponding to the front and rear crotch portions in the pattern.   The tubular shape according to claim 1, wherein the upper part of the pattern is formed as a body part of a tubular knitting by connecting and knitting front and back knitted fabrics at the front and back crotch lines above the front and rear crotch parts in the pattern. Clothing consisting of warp knitting.   The cylinder according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the pattern line at the upper end of the front and back knitted fabric in the pattern is inclined with respect to the waist line so as to gradually increase from the front body side to the back body side of the pattern. Clothing consisting of warp knitted fabric.   The ratio of the length of the waist line in the said pattern and the foot root line including the extended knitted fabric part of the front and back crotch part is 1: 1.05 to 1: 1.3. A clothing comprising the tubular warp knitted fabric according to item 1.   From the cylindrical warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the ratio of the length of the front rise line and the back rise line in the pattern shape is 1: 1.1 to 1: 1.5. Apparel.   The clothing which consists of the cylindrical warp knitted fabric of any one of Claims 1-5 which has the curved shape where the back leg line in the said pattern swelled outside.   Front and back knitted fabrics are each knitted in a pattern as viewed from the left and right sides of the clothing having a crotch portion by a warp knitting machine having two rows of needle beds, The upper part of the pattern is formed as a barrel part of the tubular knitting by connecting and knitting in the rear crotch line, and an outward knitted fabric part is formed in a portion corresponding to the front and rear crotch part in the pattern. A method for producing a garment comprising a cylindrical warp knitted fabric, comprising knitting, cutting along a contour line of a pattern after knitting, and sewing a necessary portion including a front and back crotch portion into a garment.

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