JP2013104150A - Weaving method with torn fabric weft - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a weaving method with torn fabric weft, capable of easily forming a pattern on a woven fabric with torn fabric weft, which is expressed by weaving ribbon-shaped weft, in a shape according to a predetermined setting.SOLUTION: In the weaving method with torn fabric weft, a compression ratio of ribbon-shaped weft during weaving is determined in advance. Then, in a dyeing step, a fabric to be torn is dyed with an original pattern which is formed by enlarging the pattern of a woven fabric with the torn fabric weft by a factor of the reciprocal of the compression ratio of the weft only in the length direction of the fabric to be torn. Thus, in the weaving step with the torn fabric weft, the weft is successively compressed at the predetermined compression ratio by beating the weft with a reed, so that the pattern as desired is easily formed on the woven fabric with the torn fabric weft.

Description

  The present invention relates to a tear weaving method, and more particularly, to a tear weaving method in which a warp yarn and a weft thread obtained by splitting a predetermined cloth into an elongated ribbon (tape) shape are mixed to produce a tear fabric.

  As a type of textile manufacturing method, warp made of spun yarn stretched at a predetermined pitch on a weaving machine and weft yarn that has been made into a long ribbon shape by tearing a tear cloth such as old clothes are interlaced according to a certain rule to make a flat cloth A tear weaving method for weaving a tear fabric is known. In this method, weaving was performed ignoring the pattern of the tearing cloth, so that the resulting tearing fabric was a new design.

  Therefore, in recent years, for example, a “weaving method” has been developed in which memories of old clothes (desired clothes) are woven while leaving the external appearance as it is (for example, Patent Document 1). The method of knitting of Patent Document 1 prepares an original clothing ribbon obtained by elongating a desired clothing, and a peripheral ribbon obtained by elongating a different fabric, and then the loom using the peripheral ribbon as a weft and the spun yarn as a warp. To tear and weave. In the middle of this, desired clothing appears as a pattern on the teared fabric by appropriately weaving the original clothing ribbon as a part of the weft at a position where the appearance and pattern of used clothes can be expressed.

JP 2004-232161 A

  However, in the method of fissure weaving described in Patent Document 1, compression generated by driving the main clothing ribbon in the warp length direction by the loom of the loom at the time of tear weaving is ignored. In the case of a general cotton cloth (salach), the weft is compressed to about a quarter by a heel (for example, a 1 cm width is compressed to a width of 2.5 mm). For this reason, the size of old clothes woven into the tearing fabric is the same as the original length in the width direction of the fabric, but the pattern is compressed to a quarter in the lengthwise direction of the tearing fabric, and the original shape is not retained. It was a thing.

  Therefore, as a result of earnest research, the inventor has compressed the ribbon-shaped weft by the heel if the pattern of the tear cloth is expanded in advance in the cloth length direction by the amount (ratio) by which the weft is compressed by driving the heel. However, the present invention was completed by finding that the pattern of the teared fabric after completion would be preset.

  An object of the present invention is to provide a tear-weaving method that allows a pattern according to a target to easily appear on a tear fabric.

  According to the first aspect of the present invention, the original pattern is dyed on a rectangular tear cloth having the same width as that of the tear fabric, and then the tear cloth is formed in a zigzag shape along the length direction of the tear cloth. The weft is formed into an elongated ribbon shape, and then the weft and warp are interlaced using a loom, and the weft is sequentially driven with a scissors and compressed, and the pattern has a pattern resulting from the original pattern. In the tear weaving method of weaving a fabric, the original pattern is obtained by enlarging the pattern of the tear fabric only in the length direction of the tear cloth by an inverse number times the compression ratio of the weft. This is a tear weaving method in which the fabric is dyed onto the tear cloth.

The “rip cloth” as used herein is a dyed cloth that is torn into an elongated ribbon shape (tape shape) dyed by various dyeing methods such as indigo dyeing, persimmon dyeing, mud dyeing, and tea dyeing. The cloth fabric is not limited. However, fabrics made of natural fibers such as cotton and hemp are preferred in terms of texture and the like.
The shape of the tear cloth may be a short rectangular shape such as a towel or a long rectangular shape such as a fabric.

The “original pattern” is a source of a pattern to be attached to the tearing fabric, and may be an arbitrary pattern such as a geometric pattern or an abstract pattern in addition to a person, an animal, a flower, a building, a landscape, and the like.
The width (width) of the tear cloth is the same as the width (width) of the tear fabric. If the width of the tearing cloth is significantly different from the width of the tearing fabric, the pattern of the tearing fabric is deformed obliquely or does not constitute the pattern.

The term “split in a zigzag” here refers to the direction of tearing (in a direction perpendicular to the target direction), with one side in the length direction of the tearing cloth as a target, while continuing to bend several times toward it (zigzag) ) Is reversed every other piece and the tearing cloth is torn into pieces (flat tearing). As a method of tearing, it may be torn by hand or by using a tool such as scissors or a cutter. Alternatively, it may be mechanically broken by a cutting machine or the like.
The loom may be a hand loom or a mechanical loom.

The compression ratio of the weft yarn by the driving of the kite is arbitrary. For example, the compression rate at the time of tear weaving when a general cotton salash is used as a tearing cloth is 25%, and if the material is a thin fabric than the salash, the compression ratio at the time of tear weaving is 20%. %.
The width of the weft (ribbon) is arbitrary but is preferably 5 to 10 mm. If the thickness is less than 5 mm, the weft may be broken during use depending on the thickness of the tearing cloth or the fabric, and if it exceeds 10 mm, the smooth continuity of the pattern of the tearing fabric is lost depending on the pattern of the original pattern. The width of the weft is preferably constant over the entire length.

  The shape of the original pattern of the tearing cloth is determined in consideration of the shrinkage in the width direction of the weft (target pattern) due to the driving of the kite, based on the pattern (target pattern) appearing on the tear fabric. That is, the width of the original pattern (the length in the tearing direction of the tear cloth) and the width of the target pattern are the same, but the length of the original pattern (the length in the direction perpendicular to the tearing direction of the tearing cloth) Based on the length of the pattern, the weft compression ratio is multiplied by the reciprocal. For example, if the pattern of the tear fabric is the word “indigo” and the weft compression rate is 20%, the shape of the original pattern of the tear cloth is that the shape of “indigo” is extended five times in the vertical direction. Become.

  According to the first aspect of the present invention, the compression rate at the time of tearing and weaving the ribbon-shaped weft is obtained in advance, and in the subsequent dyeing step, the pattern of the tear fabric is removed by the reciprocal of the compression rate of the weft. Dye the original pattern enlarged (deformed) only in the vertical direction on the tearing cloth. With this configuration, the weft yarn is sequentially compressed at a predetermined compression rate by driving with a scissors at the time of tear weaving, so that the desired pattern can be easily displayed on the tear fabric without special weaving. be able to.

It is a top view which shows the paste coating process of the dyeing | staining of the tear weaving method which concerns on Example 1 of this invention. It is a top view which shows the tearing process of the tearing cloth of the tear weaving method which concerns on Example 1 of this invention. It is a perspective view which shows the tear-weaving process of the tearing cloth of the tear-weaving method which concerns on Example 1 of this invention. It is a top view of the tear textiles woven up by the tear weaving method concerning Example 1 of this invention.

  Examples of the present invention will be specifically described below.

  A tear weaving method according to Embodiment 1 of the present invention will be described with reference to FIGS. This tear weaving method (a method for producing a tear fabric) includes a weft compression rate measuring step, a pattern making step, a dyeing step, a cloth tearing step, and a tear weaving step which are sequentially performed.

Hereinafter, these steps will be described in detail.
In the weft compression rate measuring step, when the operator operates the heel with a normal force in the tear weaving step, it is measured how much the ribbon-shaped weft is compressed by driving the heel.
First, as shown in FIG. 1 and FIG. 2, by preparing a dummy tear cloth 12A that is the same as the rectangular (rectangular) tear cloth 12 to be woven, and tearing it under the same conditions as the weft 11 described later, A ribbon-shaped dummy weft 11A having the same width (10 mm) as the weft 11 is obtained. A general tear weaving described later is performed by the hand loom 10 using the obtained dummy weft 11A in the tear weaving process (FIG. 3). Thereafter, the width (2.5 mm) of the dummy weft thread 11A compressed by driving the scissors 13 is measured. From the difference in the width of the dummy weft thread 11A before and after the tear weaving, the compressibility of the weft thread 11 during the tear weaving is measured. (Here, the compression rate is 25%).

  In the pattern making process, first, the patterns (here, a perfect circle pattern (◯) 15a and a regular triangle pattern (Δ) 15b) appearing on the tear fabric 14 are determined (FIG. 4). Next, the width direction (warp yarn 20) of the weft 11 by driving the scissors 13 on the pattern 16 spread on the rectangular wooden frame 16a with reference to a pattern (hereinafter referred to as a target pattern) 15 appearing on the tear fabric 14. The original pattern 15A in consideration of the shrinkage (compression rate) of the pattern 15 in the longitudinal direction of the cut fabric 14 or the length direction of the tear fabric 14 is cut out. Since the weft 11 is compressed in the width direction by driving the scissors 13, the width of the original pattern 15A (the length in the length direction of the weft 11) and the width of the target pattern 15 are the same. On the other hand, the length of the original pattern 15A (the length in the length direction of the warp 20) is increased to the length obtained by multiplying the compression rate of the weft 11 by the reciprocal number based on the length of the target pattern 15. Specifically, since the compression ratio in the width direction of the weft 11 by the ridge 13 is 25%, the window portion 17 for forming the original pattern 15A cut out in the pattern 16 has the perfect circle pattern 15a in the length direction. An elliptical window 17a that causes the elliptical pattern 15c that is four times longer to appear on the tearing cloth 12, and an isosceles triangle that causes the equilateral triangular pattern 15d that is four times longer in the length direction of the regular triangular pattern 15b to appear on the tearing cloth 12 Let it be a triangular window 17b.

  In the dyeing process, the tear cloth 12 with the original pattern 15A is dyed by a general indigo dyeing method. Specifically, first, a rectangular-shaped tearing cloth 12 made of the same width as the width of the tearing fabric 14 is prepared. Next, a pattern 16 having a window portion 17 for forming the original pattern 15A is placed on the surface of the tearing cloth 12, and the glue (resistant paste) 18 is torn through the elliptical window 17a and the isosceles triangular window 17b. It is applied to the surface of the cloth 12 by, for example, a screen printing method. Thereafter, an anti-adhesive agent (waxing powder such as fresh powder) is sprayed on the application surface of the paste 18 to suppress the sticking of the paste 18 and the tear cloth 12 is turned over. Similarly, the paste 18 is screen-printed on the back surface of the tear cloth 12, for example, and an anti-sticking agent is sprayed. Next, the tear cloth 12 to which the paste 18 is applied is dipped in a predetermined concentration of indigo liquor (for example, for about 3 minutes), and then is pulled up and exposed to air for dyeing. Such a series of dyeing operations are repeated a predetermined number of times (for example, about 30 times or more if it is desired to be darker) until a desired color and shade appear, with the middle drying process halfway.

  Thereafter, the tear cloth 12 to which the glue 18 is attached is torn in a zigzag manner in the length direction of the tear cloth 12, thereby obtaining a weft 11 having an elongated ribbon shape having a width of 10 mm. Specifically, using a cutter, while bending several times at the left side portion and the right side portion of the tear cloth 12, the tear direction so as to continue toward one side (target side) in the length direction of the tear cloth 12 ( The tear cloth 12 is torn in the opposite direction in the direction perpendicular to the target direction). The obtained ribbon-shaped weft 11 is wound around the shuttle 19 of the hand loom 10.

  In the tear weaving process, a hand loom 10 is prepared as shown in FIG. 3, and warp yarns 20 made of spun yarns stretched in parallel at a predetermined pitch and ribbon-shaped weft yarns 11 are crossed according to a certain rule. A flat cloth 14 is woven (FIG. 4). Specifically, as a preliminary preparation, the warp yarn 20 is wound around the warp shaft 21 and the warp shaft 21 is attached to one end of the main body of the hand loom 10. Next, the warp yarn 20 is pulled out from the warp shaft 21, and the leading end portion of the drawn warp yarn 20 is paired with a hole in the pair of scissors 22 and a hole in the scissors 13. Then, the tip end portion of the warp 20 is tied to the cloth winding shaft 23 laid across the other end portion of the main body of the hand loom 10. Next, while operating the hand loom 10, the warp yarn 20 is opened in the vertical direction to form a thread, and then the shuttle 19 is slid along the path to place the ribbon-shaped weft 11 between the warps 20. In this state, the weft 11 is driven by pulling the hook 13 toward the hand. By repeating the weaving operation as described above, the tear fabric 14 is woven.

  As described above, first, in the weft compression rate measurement step, the compression rate of the ribbon-shaped weft yarn 11 is obtained during tear weaving, and then in the dyeing step, the pattern 15 of the tear fabric 14 is reciprocally multiplied by the reciprocal number of the weft yarn 11 compression rate. The original pattern 15A expanded (deformed) only in the length direction of the tear cloth 12 is dyed to the tear cloth 12. Since it comprised in this way, the weft 11 is sequentially compressed by the predetermined compression rate by the driving | running | working with the scissors 13 at a tear-weaving process, and the pattern 15 as a target can be easily made to appear on the tear fabric 14. FIG.

  In this example, a general two-sheet weaving type hand loom 10 is used. However, a single-weaving type hand loom that also serves as a kite, such as “Hanafu Masa” (manufactured by Yokota Corporation), is used. It may be adopted. "Hanafu Masa" is a rectangular frame-shaped main body in plan view, a warp shaft horizontally laid at one end in the length direction of the main body, and a cloth winding shaft horizontally laid at the other end in the length direction of the main body And a single flange which is a shaft having a substantially trapezoidal cross section which is horizontally mounted to be rotatable around an axis and also serves as a flange in the middle portion in the longitudinal direction of the main body. . In this case, a number of warp guide grooves are formed at a predetermined pitch in the length direction (the width direction of the main body). At the time of use, the warp is rotated by 90 ° about its axis and tilted to open the warp in the vertical direction to form a path. After that, a series of tear weaving operations are repeated in which a shuttle runs on the road, the weft is passed through, the weft is pulled forward, the weft is driven, and then returned to its original position.

  The present invention is useful as a tear weaving technique for weaving a teared fabric with a pattern.

10 Hand loom,
11 Weft,
12 Tear cloth,
13
14 Ripped fabric,
15 design (target design),
15A original design,
20 warp.

Claims (1)

Dye the original pattern on a rectangular tear cloth with the same width as the width of the tear fabric,
Thereafter, the tear cloth is split into a fold along the length direction of the tear cloth into a slender ribbon-shaped weft,
Next, in the tear weaving method in which the weft and warp are interlaced using a loom, and the weft is sequentially driven and compressed with a scissors to weave the tear fabric having the pattern resulting from the original pattern,
The original pattern is obtained by enlarging the pattern of the tear fabric only in the length direction of the tear cloth by a reciprocal multiple of the compression ratio of the weft, and a tear weaving method for dyeing the expanded original pattern onto the tear cloth .

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