JP2013047409A - Stretchable fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a stretchable fabric that is excellent in dyeing processability, is good in finishing product quality, has little exposure of an elastic fiber outside of the stretchable fabric, has a soft feeling and is excellent in durability.SOLUTION: The stretchable fabric includes polyurethane-based elastic fibers and polyamide-based synthetic fibers. The polyurethane-based elastic fiber is blended in a ratio of 0.5-35 mass%. The polyurethane-based elastic fiber is obtained by spinning a polyurethane solution that is obtained by using ethylene glycol as a chain extender and butanol as a terminal sealant. The polyurethane-based elastic fiber is pre-set at a pre-set temperature of 150-195°C prior to being dyed. The polyurethane-based elastic fiber has a set rate of 30% or higher when it is passed through a pin tenter set at 160°C at 100% elongation. The polyurethane-based elastic fiber has a heat-resistant strength retainability of 30% or more and a thermal fusion force of 0.100 cN/dtex or more at the pre-set temperature.

Description

  The present invention relates to a stretchable fabric composed of polyurethane-based elastic fibers and polyamide-based synthetic fibers, which has excellent dyeing processability and excellent finished product quality.

Stretchable fabrics composed of polyurethane elastic fibers and polyamide synthetic fibers are mainly used as stretchable functional materials in various fields of clothing such as foundations, socks, swimwear, sportswear, and leotards.
Polyurethane elastic fibers exhibit an excellent elastic function. However, in areas where product fabrics are particularly required to have mold-resisting properties, for example, circular knitting such as shorts, warp knitting for inner sports such as bras, girdles and swimwear, and textiles for outer such as bottoms. When the polyurethane-based elastic fiber is poor in mold-resisting property and heat-sealability, it does not finish as usual, making it difficult to wear, and during wearing, a so-called laugh defect (after stretching the fabric) , It included a problem of causing a defect that does not immediately recover even if released.

In addition, since polyurethane-based elastic fibers are fused only at a relatively high temperature, if the processing temperature is raised, for example, the polyamide fiber, which is the main knitting / weaving material, turns yellow, and the product is a warp etc. As a result, quality stability was poor and it was difficult to obtain a product with good finish.
Therefore, in order to reduce defects such as warps, strict production management is required in the knitting and inspection processes, and the yield is greatly reduced. In addition, in the dyeing process, it has been unavoidable to carry out print dyeing in which defects that are not noticeable are avoided by avoiding the color tone and plain dyeing that tend to be noticeable.

  When knitted fabrics with polyamide fibers represented by nylon 6 and nylon 66 fibers are dyed, polyurethane-based elastic fibers have low dyeing properties with acid dyes, so the same color with polyamide fibers may be poor depending on the dyeing recipe. In addition, there is a problem that the elastic fibers are exposed to the outside of the stretchable fabric because the polyurethane-based elastic fibers are not dyed. By peeling off the eyes, elastic fibers that are different from the polyamide fibers on the outside of the fabric look away, and a phenomenon of so-called glare that is characteristic of elastic fibers, so-called glare, has occurred, significantly reducing the quality of the fabric. Is the current situation.

  The problem of the present invention is to solve such problems of the prior art, excellent in dyeing processability (production efficiency, thermal efficiency), good finished product quality (straight line, laughing defect), less eye-catching, An object of the present invention is to provide a stretchable fabric composed of elastic fibers and polyamide synthetic fibers having a soft texture and excellent durability.

  As a result of diligent research in order to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the inventors of the present invention obtained a cross-weaving of a polyurethane elastic fiber obtained by adding a specific urea compound to polyurethane urea and a polyamide-based synthetic fiber. The inventors have found that the object of the invention can be achieved and have completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention
(1) A stretchable fabric composed of polyurethane-based elastic fibers and polyamide-based synthetic fibers, wherein the heat-bonding force of the polyurethane-based elastic fibers in the fabric before dyeing is 0.100 cN / dtex or more. And (2) (a) at least one bifunctional amine selected from primary amines and secondary amines, and at least one selected from tertiary nitrogen and heterocyclic nitrogen A nitrogen-containing compound containing nitrogen, (b) an organic diisocyanate, and (c) a monovalent compound having 1 to 10 carbon atoms for blocking the active terminal of the urea compound obtained from (a) and (b). Alternatively, a urea compound obtained by reacting at least one selected from dialkyl monoamines, alkyl monoalcohols having 1 to 10 carbon atoms and organic monoisocyanates is used as a polyurethane urea. The elastic fabric composed of 1 to 15% by mass of polyurethane urea and the polyamide-based synthetic fiber is subjected to a presetting process at 150 to 195 ° C. before dyeing. Production method of stretchable fabric,
It is.

The stretchable fabric of the present invention has excellent processability, good finished product quality, little peeling, soft texture, and excellent durability.
In particular, the stretchable fabric of the present invention is excellent in mold processability to be molded by heat, and also has an excellent anti-bleeding effect because polyurethane fibers jump out from the stitches that have spread when molded.

The stretchable fabric of the present invention consists of polyurethane-based elastic fibers and polyamide-based fibers.
Examples of the structure of the stretchable fabric of the present invention include, for example, a warp knitting, other circular knitting, warp knitting such as raschel, two-weight ricot, woven structure such as plain weaving, twill weaving, satin weaving, and the like. Anything with is included.
The heat sealing force in the fabric before dyeing of the polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention needs to be 0.100 cN / dtex or more, preferably 0.120 cN / dtex or more. If the heat fusion force before dyeing is less than 0.100 cN / dtex, sufficient fabric fusion cannot be obtained during dyeing. As in the present invention, the fusing force of the polyurethane elastic fiber is 0.100 cN / dtex or more, preferably 0.120 cN / dtex or more, thereby reducing defects such as warps occurring in the finished stretchable fabric. It can be done.

Disadvantages such as warps in elastic fabric are consistently performed in the dyeing process, for example, width setting by heat set in the presetting process, shrinkage by dyeing, and width setting by heat setting in the finishing process. It is considered that the loop forming the stretchable fabric does not become uniform due to the repeated expansion and contraction of the fabric in the process of heat history due to.
However, the elastic fabric of the present invention uses polyurethane-based elastic fibers having a heat-sealing force of 0.100 cN / dtex or more, preferably 0.120 cN / dtex or more after performing the presetting before dyeing. The loop is heat-sealed and fixed at a low temperature, and the loop of the stretchable fabric becomes difficult to deform. As a result, it is possible to reduce the width variation of the fabric accompanying the expansion and contraction of the fabric in the subsequent dyeing and finishing process, and the warp and laughter. A uniform stretchable fabric without defects such as a defect that does not recover) is formed, and is excellent in durability (shrinkage and loss of shape due to washing).

In addition, the loop is heat-sealed and fixed at a low temperature, so that the temperature of the presetting process before dyeing can be lowered, and dyeing processability (production efficiency and thermal efficiency) is improved and the heat of the polyamide fiber is improved. By being able to suppress deterioration, it is possible to finish a stretchable fabric with a soft texture.
The set rate of polyurethane-based elastic fibers used in the present invention is 30% or more from the viewpoint of preventing the occurrence of mold stoppage failure during fabric processing, occurrence of curling around the end of the fabric, shrinkage or loss of shape due to washing in the product. It is preferable that it is 50% or more. In the processing of the fabric, 100% or less is preferable in order to prevent the so-called settling and the deterioration of the power and elongation recovery function of the product, in which the polyurethane elastic fiber is fully stretched by heat.

A set rate is calculated | required with the following measuring methods.
A test yarn having a length of 5 cm when an initial load of 1/30 g / dtex (dtex is nominal decitex) is applied to the polyurethane elastic fiber is passed through a pin tenter set at 160 ° C. under 100% elongation with a passing time of 60 seconds. Further, after standing for 16 hours in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. and 65% RH, the yarn length L (cm) when an initial load of 1/30 g / dtex (dtex is nominal decitex) is applied to the polyurethane elastic fiber is read.
The set rate (%) is calculated from the following formula.
Set rate (%) = [(L-5) / 5] × 100

  The blue L value of the polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably 20 to 35. As will be described in detail later, the blue L value is the lightness of a polyurethane-based elastic fiber bare fabric (fabric using a bare yarn of polyurethane elastic fiber) when dyed with a specific blue dye. The lighter the color, the darker the color. When the blue L value exceeds 35, the color when the polyurethane elastic fiber is dyed is thin, and the fabric is easily peeled off. If the blue L value is less than 20, the color is too dark, so it looks darker than the color of the polyamide-based synthetic fiber that is the counterpart material, and the color of the polyurethane-based elastic fiber prevails on the surface of the fabric. There is a risk of breaking the balance.

The heat-resistant and strong-holding property of the polyurethane-based elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably 30% or more, more preferably 50% or more from the viewpoint of preventing the durability from being lowered when worn.
In the stretchable fabric of the present invention, the mixing ratio of the polyurethane elastic fibers can take a very wide range depending on the structure of the fabric and the thickness of the yarn to be used, but the stretchable properties of the polyurethane elastic fibers are sufficiently exhibited. Is preferably 0.5% by mass or more, 35% by mass from the standpoint of maintaining an appropriate dye distribution ratio at the time of dyeing, preventing the color development of the polyamide-based synthetic fiber from being lowered, and preventing the power of the fabric from becoming too high. The following is preferred.

The yarn form of the polyurethane-based elastic fiber used in the present invention is a sheath in which a polyurethane-based elastic fiber such as a coated elastic yarn, a core-spun yarn, and a spunist yarn is essentially a core, and a polyamide-based synthetic fiber is twisted even in a bare yarn state. It may be in the state of coated yarn. The coated yarn is produced by, for example, covering, fine spinning, twisting, and twisting.
The mainstream fabrics are used in the form of coated elastic yarn, core-spun yarn, and spun yarn yarn. Especially when the non-elastic fiber to be coated is a transparent yarn or the number of twists is small, polyurethane elastic fiber is used. Since the influence of the color is strong, the color development effect of the polyurethane-based elastic fiber used in the present invention is remarkably exhibited when weaving and knitting. In the inner underwear and direct knit inspanty, polyurethane-based elastic fibers are often used in a bare state such as bare tengu. In recent years, some fabrics that are used in a bare state have begun to appear, and when used in this state, the probability of polyurethane-based elastic fibers appearing on the fabric surface is higher than when used in a coated state. The color development effect of the urethane-based elastic fibers used in the process is remarkably exhibited.

The polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is produced by presetting a polyurethane elastic fiber containing the following urea compound at 150 to 195 ° C. before dyeing.
The urea compound contained in the polyurethane elastic fiber is (a) at least selected from at least one bifunctional amine selected from primary amines and secondary amines, and tertiary nitrogen and heterocyclic nitrogen. A nitrogen-containing compound containing one kind of nitrogen, (b) an organic diisocyanate, and (c) 1 to 1 carbon atoms for blocking the active terminal of the urea compound obtained from (a) and (b). It can be produced by reacting at least one selected from 10 mono- or dialkyl monoamines, C1-C10 alkyl monoalcohols, and organic monoisocyanates.

It is necessary to carry out the reaction after adjusting the molar equivalent ratio of the above (a), (b), and (c) so that no active terminal remains in the obtained urea compound.
The urea compound includes a tertiary nitrogen skeleton represented by the chemical formula (4) and a urea bond represented by the chemical formula (1) or (2) or a urethane bond represented by the chemical formula (3) in the molecule.

  Urea compounds are classified into two types of structures satisfying the structures of the above formulas (1) to (4) by the selection of (c). That is, when (c) is a mono or dialkyl monoamine or an alkyl monoalcohol, the chemical formula (5),

(In the formula, a contains nitrogen containing at least one bifunctional amine selected from primary amines and secondary amines and at least one nitrogen selected from tertiary nitrogen and heterocyclic nitrogen. Compound, b is an organic diisocyanate, c is a mono- or dialkyl monoamine having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl monoalcohol having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, n is 1 or more)
When (c) is an organic monoisocyanate, the chemical formula (6)

(In the formula, a contains nitrogen containing at least one bifunctional amine selected from primary amines and secondary amines and at least one nitrogen selected from tertiary nitrogen and heterocyclic nitrogen. Compound, b is an organic diisocyanate, c is an organic monomonoisocyanate, and n is 1 or more)
A more preferable structure is a case where (c) is an organic isocyanate represented by the chemical formula (6).

These urea compounds having two types of structures are preferably used alone, but may be used in combination.
(A) a bifunctional amine consisting of at least one selected from primary amines and secondary amines, and at least one selected from tertiary nitrogen and heterocyclic nitrogen, which are used to produce urea compounds N-butyl-bis (2-aminoethyl) amine, N-butyl-bis (2-aminopropyl) amine, N-butyl-bis (2-aminobutyl) amine, N, N-bis (2-aminoethyl) -isobutylamine, N, N-bis (2-aminopropyl) -isobutylamine, N, N-bis (2-aminoethyl) -t-butylamine, N, N- Bis (2-aminoethyl) -1,1-dimethylpropylamine, N, N-bis (2-aminopropyl) -1,1-dimethylpropylamine, N, N-bis (2-aminobutyrate) ) -1,1-dimethylpropylamine, N- (N, N-diethyl-3-aminopropyl) -bis (2-aminoethyl) amine, N- (N, N-dibutyl-3-aminopropyl) -bis (2-aminopropyl) amine, piperazine, piperazine derivatives such as 2-methylpiperazine, 1- (2-aminoethyl) -4- (3-aminopropyl) piperazine, 2,5- and 2,6-dimethylpiperazine, N, N′-bis (2-aminoethyl) piperazine, N, N′-bis (3-aminopropyl) piperazine, N- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine, N-amino- (2-aminoethyl) -4 -Piperidine derivatives such as methylpiperazine, such as 4-aminoethylpiperidine, N-amino-4- (2-aminoethyl) piperidine, N-bis (2-aminoethyl) ) Pyrrolidone derivatives such as amine-piperidine, such as N-amino-4- (2-aminoethyl) -2-pyrrolidone, N- (3-aminopropyl) -4- (3-aminopropyl) -2-pyrrolidone, N-bis (2-aminoethyl) amine-2-pyrrolidone and the like can be mentioned. Preferred nitrogen-containing compounds are piperazine and piperazine derivatives. In particular, N- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine and N- (2-aminopropyl) piperazine, which have very good solubility in the amide solvent of the resulting urea compound, are preferred. These can be used alone or in combination.

  Examples of (b) organic diisocyanates used for producing urea compounds include trimethylene diisocyanate, tetramethylene diisocyanate, pentamethylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, and 3-methylhexane-1. , 6-diisocyanate, 3,3'-dimethylpentane-1,5-diisocyanate, 1,3- and 1,4-cyclohexylene-diisocyanate, 4,4'-dicyclohexylmethane-diisocyanate Narate, m- and p-xylylene diisocyanate, α, α, α ′, α′-tetramethyl-p-xylylene diisocyanate, 4,4′-diphenylmethane-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 2, Examples include 4-tolylene diisocyanate. Preferred are alicyclic diisocyanates such as isophorone diisocyanate and 4,4'-dicyclohexylmethane-diisocyanate. These can be used alone or in combination.

  Examples of (c) monoamines having an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms used for producing urea compounds include isopropylamine, n-butylamine, t-butylamine, diethylamine, 2-ethylhexylamine, diisopropylamine. , Di-n-butylamine, di-t-butylamine, di-isobutylamine, di-2-ethylhexylamine and the like. Further, the alkyl chain may contain a tertiary nitrogen atom or an oxygen atom, such as 3-dibutylamino-propylamine, 3-diethylamino-propylamine, 3-ethoxypropylamine, 3- (2-ethylhexyl). And oxy) propylamine. These can be used alone or in combination.

Examples of the (c) monoalcohol having an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms used for producing a urea compound include methanol, ethanol, 2-propanol, 2-methyl-2-propanol, 1-butanol, Examples include 2-ethyl-1-hexanol and 3-methyl-1-butanol. These can be used alone or in combination.
The above mono- or dialkylamines and alkyl alcohols can be used alone or in combination. Preferably, it is used alone.

  (C) Organic monoisocyanates used for producing urea compounds include n-butyl isocyanate, phenyl isocyanate, 1-naphthyl isocyanate, p-chlorophenyl isocyanate, cyclohexyl isocyanate, m-tolyl isocyanate And narate, benzyl isocyanate, m-nitrophenyl isocyanate, and the like. These can be used alone or in combination. However, it cannot be mixed with the aforementioned mono- or dialkylamine or alkyl alcohol. When these are mixed, a compound in which an active hydrogen of mono- or dialkylamine or alkyl alcohol is blocked with an organic monoisocyanate is formed, and the effective amount of the urea compound having the structure of the chemical formula (5) or (6) is reduced. However, it causes scum that bleeds out in the process of processing the polyurethane elastic fiber and soils the knitting machine and the dyeing tub.

(C) used to obtain the urea compound to be added to the polyurethane elastic fiber is used to block the active terminal (amino group or isocyanate group) of the urea compound obtained from (a) and (b). It is done. As a result, it is possible to prevent the deterioration of the spinning stability and the fastness of the polyurethane elastic fiber due to the active end of the urea compound.
When the reaction molar equivalent is (a)> (b), since the urea compound terminal is an amino group, an organic monoisocyanate is selected as (c), and when (a) <(b) Since the end of the compound is an isocyanate group, mono- or dialkylamine or alkyl monoalcohol is selected as (c). In the present invention, it is preferable to select an organic monoisocyanate.

  The urea compound added to the polyurethane-based elastic fiber used in the present invention contains 2 to 40 urea bond units represented by the chemical formula (1) or (2) or urethane bonds represented by the chemical formula (3) in one molecule. .

  When (c) is a mono- or dialkyl monoamine having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl monoalcohol having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, the structure of the urea compound is represented by chemical formula (5) (n in the structure is 1 or more).

A urea compound having a desired number of urea bond units can be obtained by adjusting the reaction charge molar ratio of (a), (b) and (c). That is, if adjusted so that (a) :( b) :( c) = n: n + 1: 2, the number of urea bond units present in one molecule is n + 3 for mono- or dialkylmonoamines and n + 3 for alkyl monoalcohols. n + 1.
When (c) is an organic monoisocyanate, the structure of the urea compound is represented by the chemical formula (6) (n in the structure is 1 or more).

  At this time, if adjusted so that (a) :( b) :( c) = n + 1: n: 2, the number of urea bond units present in one molecule is n + 3.

  From the viewpoint of imparting good heat setting property to polyurethane elastic fibers and good heat-fusibility by pre-dyeing presetting, the urea compound preferably has the above-mentioned number of urea bond units or urethane bond units in one molecule. 2-40, more preferably 4-15. In terms of the number of polymerization repetitions n in the structure, it is 1 to 37 for mono- or dialkyl monoamines and organic monoisocyanates, and 3-39 for alkyl monoalcohols. By setting the number of urea bond units or urethane bond units within this range, the urea compound bleed-out can be reduced, the occurrence of scum that contaminates the knitting machine and dyeing tub is suppressed, and yarn breakage during the production of polyurethane elastic fibers Etc. can be prevented.

  In the stretchable fabric according to the present invention, a fabric obtained by knitting or weaving the polyurethane-based elastic fiber containing the urea compound and the polyamide-based synthetic fiber is subjected to a presetting process at 150 to 195 ° C. before dyeing. Manufactured by. If the temperature of the presetting process is less than 150 ° C., a heat fusion force of 0.100 cN / dtex or more cannot be obtained after passing through the preset, and a long time preset is required to increase the heat fusion force. If the temperature of the presetting process exceeds 195 ° C., the stretchability and power, which are the characteristics of the stretchable fabric, are lost due to the high-temperature treatment, and the characteristics as the stretchable fabric are lost. The quality of the obtained product is not stable due to the occurrence of warps. The same phenomenon occurs with a long time preset.

The urea compound added to the polyurethane urea is produced by the following method.
The number of urea bond units present in one molecule of the urea compound is adjusted by the reaction charge molar ratio of (a), (b) and (c). The reaction temperature is preferably 20 to 60 ° C. The reaction is preferably carried out in an amide polar solvent in which polyurethane urea is dissolved, for example, in dimethylformamide, dimethylacetamide, or N-methylpyrrolidone. When a solvent that does not dissolve polyurethane urea is used, the solid content is taken out after the reaction, dissolved in a solvent in which polyurethane urea is dissolved, and added to the polyurethane urea.

  As an example of the reaction method, (a) is 2 mol of N- (2-methylamino) piperazine, (b) is 1 mol of isophorone diisocyanate, (c) is 2 mol of phenyl isocyanate. It melt | dissolves so that it may become a mass% dimethylacetamide solution, and is made to react at 50 degreeC for 2 hours. The reaction is carried out by dropwise addition of isophorone diisocyanate and phenyl isocyanate into N- (2-methylamino) piperazine dissolved in dimethylacetamide. This method can be used. The number of repetitions n of polymerization of the urea compound obtained at this time is 1, and the number of urea bond units present per molecule is 4.

The polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention can be obtained by dry spinning a spinning stock solution in which a urea compound dissolved in an amide polar solvent is added to a polyurethane urea solution. The addition can be carried out at any stage from the end of the polymerization of the polyurethane urea to the spinning.
The addition amount of the urea compound added to the polyurethane-based elastic fiber may be an amount that can sufficiently satisfy the setability and dyeability required for the product fabric and does not impair the excellent elastic function and spinning stability. 1-15 mass% is preferable with respect to it, More preferably, it is 2-10 mass%. When the addition amount of the urea compound is less than 1% by mass, the effects of heat setting property, heat fusion property, and dyeing property are small. On the other hand, if it exceeds 15% by mass, the heat setting effect and heat fusing effect are saturated and the dyeing fastness tends to be lowered, and the spinning stability is lowered due to yarn breakage during spinning, and the strength, elongation, elasticity Elastic function such as recoverability is likely to be impaired.

  In addition, a known heat setting property improving agent can be added. For example, at least one thermoplastic polymer selected from polyacrylonitrile polymers, polyurethane polymers, and styrene-maleic anhydride copolymers described in JP-A-7-316922 may be contained at the same time. In this case, the total addition amount of the thermoplastic polymer and the urea compound of the present invention is preferably 15% by mass or less, and the addition amount of the thermoplastic polymer preferably does not exceed the addition amount of the urea compound of the present invention. .

The reason why the polyurethane-based elastic fiber containing a urea compound does not sacrifice at least the elastic function and the spinning stability and exhibits excellent heat-fusibility and dyeability is not clear, but is considered as follows.
The first is the effect of a specific nitrogen-containing compound that is excellent in dyeability and fastness, and the second is the effect of a urea compound containing a specific number of urea binding units. That is, the dyeability and fastness are excellent because the bifunctional amine consisting of at least one selected from primary amines and secondary amines, and at least one selected from tertiary nitrogen and heterocyclic nitrogen are used. The nitrogen-containing compound containing is considered to be an effect by strongly adsorbing and holding acidic dyes and disperse dyes. Moreover, it is thought that it is the effect of the urea compound which has 2-40 urea bond units in 1 molecule that heat setting property and heat-fusion property are excellent.

  The polyurethane-based elastic fiber is composed of a segmented polymer having a urethane bond and a urea bond, and among them, the urea bond generates extremely strong hydrogen-bonding physical crosslinks to form a crystalline domain. Therefore, while exhibiting an excellent elastic function at room temperature, this hydrogen bond is not easily broken even at high temperatures, so that it is difficult to be thermally fused.

  The urea compound contained in the polyurethane elastic fiber generates a strong hydrogen bond with the urea bond in the polyurethane elastic fiber, and assimilate with the crystalline domain in the polyurethane elastic fiber, thus exhibiting an excellent elastic function at room temperature. . However, this urea compound has the effect of lowering the glass transition temperature of the crystalline domain, and at high temperatures, the hydrogen bond is broken and the crystalline domain is likely to heat flow. It becomes an excellent polyurethane-based elastic fiber. If the amount of urea compound added to the polyurethane elastic fiber is too small, this heat setting effect is insufficient. On the other hand, if the amount added is too large, the thermal fusion effect will be sufficiently satisfied, but the glass transition temperature of the crystalline domain will be too low, and heat flow will occur at the high temperature during spinning, making it impossible to ensure spinning stability. Not only will the elastic function be impaired.

  Polyurethane urea, which is a raw material for the polyurethane elastic fiber of the present invention, has a hydroxyl group at both ends, a polymer glycol having a number average molecular weight of 600 to 5000, an organic diisocyanate, a chain extender of a diamine compound, and an end capping of a monoamine compound. Manufactured from the agent.

  Examples of the polymer glycol include various diols composed of substantially linear homo- or copolymers, such as polyester diol, polyether diol, polyester amide diol, polyacryl diol, polythioester diol, polythioether diol, polycarbonate diol, or these. Or a copolymer thereof. Polyalkylene ether glycol is preferred, for example, polyoxyethylene glycol, polyoxypropylene glycol, polytetramethylene ether glycol, polyoxypentamethylene glycol, copolymer polyether comprising tetramethylene group and 2,2-dimethylpropylene group A copolymer polyether glycol consisting of glycol, tetramethylene group and 3-methyltetramethylene group or a mixture thereof. Among them, polytetramethylene ether glycol and a copolymer polyether glycol composed of a tetramethylene group and a 2,2-dimethylpropylene group, which exhibit an excellent elastic function, are preferable.

  As the organic diisocyanate used for polyurethane urea, for example, all aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diisocyanates which are dissolved or liquid in an amide polar solvent under reaction conditions can be applied. For example, 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 2,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-tolylene diisocyanate, m- and p-xylylene diisocyanate, α, α, α ′, α '-Tetramethyl-xylylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyl ether diisocyanate, 4,4'-dicyclohexyl diisocyanate, 1,3- and 1,4-cyclohexylene diisocyanate, 3- (α- Isocyanatoethyl) phenyl isocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, trimethylene diisocyanate, tetramethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, a mixture thereof or a copolymer thereof. Preferably, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate.

  Examples of the chain extender diamine compound used for polyurethane urea include ethylenediamine, 1,2-propylenediamine, 1,3-diaminocyclohexane, 2-methyl-1,5-pentadiamine, hexamethylenediamine, triethylenediamine, and m. -Xylylenediamine, piperazine, o-, m- and p-phenylenediamine, diamines having a urea group described in JP-A No. 5-155842, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, ethylenediamine alone or an ethylenediamine mixture containing 5 to 40 mol% of at least one selected from the group of 1,2-propylenediamine, 1,3-diaminocyclohexane and 2-methyl-1,5-pentadiamine. is there.

  Examples of the terminal amine monoamine compound used in the polyurethane urea include monoalkylamines such as isopropylamine, n-butylamine, t-butylamine, 2-ethylhexylamine, or diethylamine, diisopropylamine, di-n-butylamine, di- Dialkylamines such as t-butylamine, di-isobutylamine, di-2-ethylhexylamine and the like can be mentioned, and these can be used alone or in combination. Further, 1,1-dimethylhydrazine can be mixed with a monoamine compound and used.

  For polyurethane urea, a known polyurethane urea forming reaction technique can be used. For example, an intermediate polymer having an isocyanate group at the terminal is prepared by reacting a polyalkylene ether glycol having a number average molecular weight of 600 to 5000 with an excess of an organic diisocyanate in an amide polar solvent. Subsequently, this urea polymer is dissolved in an amide polar solvent, and a polyurethane urea is obtained by reacting a chain extender and a terminal terminator.

The polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is obtained by spinning a spinning stock solution containing 1 to 15% by mass of the urea compound of the present invention with respect to polyurethane urea.
In the spinning dope, in addition to the urea compound of the present invention, known polyurethane urea elastic fibers, polyurethane elastic fibers, organic or inorganic compounding agents useful for polyurethane compositions, for example, UV absorbers, antioxidants, light stabilizers An agent, an anti-gas colorant, a colorant, a matting agent, a lubricant, and the like can be added simultaneously or sequentially.

The polyurethane urea spinning dope thus obtained can be formed into a fiber shape by a known dry spinning method, wet spinning method or the like to produce a polyurethane elastic fiber. As the spinning method, dry spinning which exhibits an excellent elastic function and is excellent in productivity is preferable.
The obtained polyurethane elastic fiber has an advantage in improving the heat setting property when the decitex per single yarn is large. Preferably, it is 5.6 to 33 dtex per single yarn. This is considered to be derived from the fact that the orientational relaxation of the crystal part in the fiber is large. If it is less than 5.6 decitex, the orientation becomes large, and if it exceeds 33 decitex, the orientation relaxation is small but the crystal size becomes large, and the crystal flow during heat setting hardly occurs.

  Polyurethane-based elastic fibers obtained are mixed with polydimethylsiloxane, polyester-modified silicon, polyether-modified silicon, amino-modified silicon, mineral oil, mineral fine particles such as silica, colloidal alumina, talc, etc., higher fatty acid metal salt powders such as stearin. Oil agents such as solid waxes at room temperature such as magnesium fatty acid, calcium stearate, higher aliphatic carboxylic acids, higher aliphatic alcohols, paraffin, polyethylene, etc. may be used alone or optionally in combination.

  The elastic elastic fiber-containing stretch fabric of the present invention is a swimwear, girdle, brassiere, 2.54cm mate product, various stretch foundations for underwear, socks, socks, waistbands, body suits, spats, stretch sportswear It can be used for materials such as stretch outers, bandages, supporters, medical wear, stretch linings, and disposable diapers.

The present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples.
Various measurement methods used in the present invention are as follows.
(1) Breaking strength, breaking elongation A tensile tester (UTM-III-100 type (trademark) manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd.) was used, and a test yarn having a sample length of 5 cm was placed at 50 cm / cm in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. and 65% RH. Pull at a rate of minutes and measure the breaking strength (g) and breaking elongation (%).

(2) Heat-bonding force Polyurethane elastic fibers are knitted with a draft of 2.5 times with a one-neck knitting machine having a diameter of 3/4 / 2.54 cm with 370 needles to obtain a cylindrical knitted fabric of elastic fibers. The obtained elastic knitted fabric is passed through a pin tenter at a preset preset temperature under 100% elongation, with a passage time of 60 seconds, and then a tensile tester (UTM-III-100 type manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd.) (Trademark)) is adjusted so that the distance (sample length) between the upper chuck and the lower chuck is 10 cm, the cylindrical knitted fabric is set on the upper chuck, and the yarn is pulled out from the end of the cylindrical knitted fabric to the sample length of 10 cm. The sample is set on the chuck, pulled at a speed of 50 cm / min, and the extraction stress P1 (cN) when the yarn is extracted from one end of the tubular knitted fabric is measured.

The decitex measurement method for polyurethane-based elastic fibers is as follows.
An initial load of 1/30 g / dtex (dtex is nominal decitex) is applied to the polyurethane elastic fiber, and the polyurethane elastic fiber is cut to a length of 100.0 cm. Ten elastic fibers cut to a length of 100.0 cm, that is, a mass of 1000.0 cm length was measured with an electronic balance having four digits after the decimal point, and further, their mass was multiplied by 1000, that is, The number of grams converted to a mass of 10,000 m is defined as decitex.
The heat sealing force is obtained by the following formula.
Thermal fusing power (cN / dtex) = extraction stress P1 / decitex

(3) Blue L value 1 g of a tubular knitted fabric of elastic fibers is obtained under the same conditions as in the method for measuring the thermal fusing force. Further, 4 g of nylon-attached white cloth for JIS dyeing fastness test (according to JIS L 0803) is collected and dyed and fixed in the same bath under the following conditions.
Dyeing conditions Dye KayanolMillingBlue2RW (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd. (trademark)) 1.3% owf
Nylon attached white cloth mass 4g
Elastic yarn fiber bare knitted fabric mass 1g
Bath ratio 20: 1
Ammonium sulfate 2g / liter Temperature increase rate 2 ° C / min Temperature, time 95 ° C x 60 min

Fix conditions Sun Life TN-8 (trademark, manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.)
4% owf
Nylon attached white cloth mass 4g
Elastic yarn fiber bare knitted fabric mass 1g
Bath ratio 20: 1
Ammonium sulfate 2g / liter Temperature increase rate 2 ℃ / min Temperature, time 80 ℃ × 30min

For the dyeing and fixing treatment, soft water having a Ca ion concentration of 3 ppm or less that has been passed through a softener is used consistently, and a mini-color dyeing machine (trademark, manufactured by Texam Giken Co., Ltd.) is used as the dyeing machine.
The dyed elastic fiber bare yarn knitted fabric is dehydrated and air-dried at room temperature for 12 hours, and then the knitted fabric is folded in three, that is, the L value (lightness) is measured with a Macbeth colorimeter in a state where six knitted fabrics are stacked.

(4) Heat-resistant and strong retention rate A test yarn of 5 cm in length when an initial load of 1/30 g / dtex (dtex is nominal decitex) is applied to the polyurethane elastic fiber under 100% elongation at a preset temperature set. And passed through a pin tenter with a passage time of 60 seconds, and further allowed to stand for 16 hours in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. and 65% RH, then relaxed and measure the strength S1 (g) by the method (1). If the yarn strength before heat setting is S0, the heat resistant strength retention is expressed by the following equation.
Heat resistant strength retention = [S1 / S0] × 100 (%)

(5) Meridian The light transmitted through the stretchable fabric as compared with the five-stage standard sample by a tester made of a polished glass judgment plate with a sample inclined at 45 degrees and a light source on the back. Then, the strength of muscles and plaques is determined by comparing with the following five standard samples.
5th grade: There are no meridians or spots.
Grade 4: Transmuscles and spots are thin and slightly occur.
3rd grade: Transmuscle, thin spots and frequent occurrence.
2nd grade: Slightly muscular and patchy spots appear.
1st grade: The muscles and spots are strong and frequent.

(6) Laughter defect The stretchable fabric is cut into a length of 100 mm in the warp direction and 90 mm in the weft direction, and is sewn with a two-needle overlock with a seam allowance of 7 mm in the weft direction. The test piece is made with Woolley nylon 210d as the sewing thread and 13 needles / 2.54 cm as the number of moving needles. Next, after sufficiently immersing this test piece in a 0.13% aqueous solution of a weak alkaline synthetic detergent, the test piece was subjected to an expansion / contraction fatigue tester with a chuck interval of 70 mm around the seam, and the expansion / contraction was repeated 10,000 times with a predetermined expansion / contraction amount (described later). Then, the test piece is removed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
Grade 5: The test piece is almost the same as before being subjected to the stretch fatigue tester.
Grade 4: The test piece is slightly wider and the appearance is slightly rough.
Grade 3: The test piece is slightly wider and the appearance is slightly rough.
Second grade: The test piece has a width, and the structure is displaced with the rough appearance.
First grade: The test piece is not suitable as a product because the width of the test piece is considerably rough, such as a structure shift or elastic fiber breakage.

The amount of elongation of the test piece when it is applied to the stretch fatigue tester is determined as follows.
The stretchable fabric is cut to a size of 200 mm in warp and 25.4 mm in weft and stretched with a Tensilon tensile tester at an initial load of 5 g, a chuck interval of 100 mm, and a tensile speed of 300 mm / min, and a load of 9.8 N. The elongation rate at the time and the elongation rate at the load of 14.7 N are obtained, and the elongation amount is determined by the following formula.
Elongation amount (%) = [(Elongation rate at load 9.8 N) + (Elongation rate at load 14.7)] / 2

(7) Laddering After a stretchable fabric is cut to a length of 170 mm in the warp direction and 90 mm in the weft direction, it is subjected to a stretch fatigue test machine with a chuck interval of 70 mm with the warp direction as the stretch direction, and stretch is repeated 10,000 times with a stretch amount of 100%. The test piece is removed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
Grade 5: The test piece is almost the same as before being subjected to the stretch fatigue tester.
Grade 4: The test piece is slightly wider and the appearance is slightly rough.
Grade 3: The test piece is slightly wider and the appearance is slightly rough.
Second grade: The test piece has a width, and the structure is displaced with the rough appearance.
First grade: The test piece is not suitable as a product because the width of the test piece is considerably rough, such as a structure shift or elastic fiber breakage.

(8) Curl The stretchable fabric is cut into a length of 10 mm in the warp direction × 100 mm in the weft direction and 100 mm in the warp direction and 10 mm in the weft direction, and left for 4 hours, and then visually evaluated according to the following criteria.
Grade 5: Flat and the entire surface reaches the floor.
4th grade: Slightly loose ends.
Third grade: Both ends are lifted (10 mm or less).
Second grade: Twist to get to the floor at the center or part of both ends.
First grade: Twist is remarkable and it becomes spiral.

(9) Texture Determined by handling according to the following criteria.
Grade 5: The texture is soft and very smooth.
Grade 4: The texture is soft and smooth.
3rd grade: The texture is soft and is the same as the same structure using nylon fiber.
Second grade: The texture is slightly hard.
First grade: The texture is hard and inappropriate as a product.

(10) Peeling The finished stretchable fabric is visually judged, and the state of the peeling is determined from 1 to 5.
Grade 5: The polyurethane elastic fiber cannot be recognized at all on the surface. Class 4: The polyurethane elastic fiber cannot be confirmed on the surface, but a slight glare is felt. Class 3: The polyurethane elastic fiber is It can be recognized that it is on the surface. Grade 2: It can be recognized that polyurethane elastic fibers are on the surface, and it can be recognized that the color is different from the color of the partner yarn. It can be confirmed that the polyurethane fiber is on the surface, and it can be recognized as undyed or white.

(11) Mold processing performance A 10 cm diameter hemispherical shape in which a stretchable fabric is fixed in a relaxed state without sagging between two 2 cm thick fixtures hollowed to a diameter of 15 cm and heated to a surface temperature of 200 ° C. The hot iron ball is pushed into the fabric, pressed to a depth of 10 cm, and immediately after 60 seconds, the hot iron ball is removed. After leaving the shaped hump shape for 12 hours at 20 ° C. and 65% RH, the height to the top of the hump is measured, and the appearance before and after processing is evaluated according to the following criteria.
5th grade: Appearance is almost unchanged.
Grade 4: The appearance is slightly rough.
Third grade: The appearance is a little rough.
Second grade: Organizational deviation has occurred along with rough appearance.
First grade: Appearance is considerably rough, such as structural deviation or elastic fiber breakage, and is inappropriate as a product.

[Example 1]
1,500 g of polytetramethylene ether glycol having a number average molecular weight of 1,800 and 312 g of 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate are reacted with stirring in a nitrogen gas stream at 60 ° C. for 90 minutes to give a polyurethane prepolymer having an isocyanate group. A polymer was obtained. Next, after cooling to room temperature, 2,600 g of dry dimethylformamide was added and dissolved to obtain a polyurethane prepolymer solution. Meanwhile, 23.4 g of ethylenediamine and 3.7 g of diethylamine are dissolved in 1,400 g of dry dimethylformamide, and the prepolymer solution is added thereto at room temperature to obtain a polyurethane urea solution having a viscosity of 3,200 poise (30 ° C.). It was.

  In the polymer solution thus obtained, 1.5% by mass of an isobutylene adduct of a polyaddition product of p-cresol and dicyclopentadiene, 2.5% of N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -t-butylamine, 2- (2′-hydroxy-3 ′, 5-dibenzyl-phenyl) -benzotriazole 0.3%, magnesium stearate 0.05% by weight, and N- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine, isophorone diisocyanate, 4% by mass of a urea compound consisting of phenyl isocyanate (molar ratio 2: 1: 2) and having 4 urea linkage units is added, and further 5% by mass of a polyurethane polymer described in JP-A-7-316922 is added. To obtain a spinning dope. This spinning dope was spun by a dry spinning method to obtain a polyurethane urea elastic fiber of 44 dtex (hereinafter referred to as elastic fiber A).

  This elastic fiber A was covered with nylon 66 (registered trademark, Leona manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 44 dtex / 34f and a twist of 300 T / M to make a weft, and the warp was nylon 66 (registered trademark). Leona manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 44 dtex / 34f (twisting number 1200 T / M) was used, and a plain fabric with a density (warp × weft) of 130 yarns / 2.54 cm × 110 yarns / 2.54 cm was woven. This was refined at 60 ° C. for 20 minutes, then preset at 160 ° C. for 30 seconds and dyed. Staining is LanasynBlackS-DL (trademark, manufactured by Clariant Co., Ltd.) 4% owf, Fix is Hifix SL (trademark, manufactured by Dainippon Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) 6% owf, and all other conditions are (3) It carried out according to the conditions except the fabric mass conditions described in the blue L value measurement method. This fabric was final set at 150 ° C. × 30 seconds to finish.

[Example 2]
Finishing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the preset temperature was 160 ° C. × 30 seconds.

[Example 3]
Finishing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the preset temperature was 180 ° C. × 30 seconds.

[Example 4]
Finishing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the preset temperature was 195 ° C. × 30 seconds.

[Example 5]
1,590 g of polytetramethylene ether glycol having a number average molecular weight of 2,500 and 318 g of 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate were reacted at 85 ° C. in a nitrogen gas stream, and 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate group terminal A polyurethane prepolymer having was obtained. Next, 3,050 g of dimethylacetamide was added and dissolved therein, 39 g of ethylene glycol was added as a chain extender, and subsequently reacted at 90 ° C. for 6 hours. Further, 20 g of butanol was added as a terminal blocking agent to obtain a polyurethane solution. Next, 0.8% silicone, NH-150 (trademark, manufactured by Nippon Hydrazine Co., Ltd.) 0.65%, Sumiza-GA-80 (trademark, Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) were added to the solution as additives. Co., Ltd.) 0.33% and Sumisop 300 # 622 (trademark, manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.12%, respectively. 44 dtex).
It processed and finished by the method similar to Example 4 except having used said elastic fiber B instead of the elastic fiber A. FIG.

[Example 6]
Nylon 66 (Leona (registered trademark) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 44 dtex / 34f was used as the front, elastic fiber A was warped at a draft rate of 80% on the back, and a half structure was knitted under the following conditions.
<Knitting conditions>
・ Knitting machine: 36 gauge / 2.54 cm Tricot knitting machine / Organization: Front 10/23
Back 12/10
・ Runner length: Front 120cm / 480 course
Back 77.6mm / 480 course ・ Onboard course: 100 course / 2.54cm
The knitted fabric obtained under these knitting conditions was refined at 90 ° C. for 1 minute, and preset and dyed in the same manner as in Example 4 to obtain a two-way warp knitted fabric. This finished two-way warp knitted fabric had a basis weight of 170 g / m ² and a thickness of 0.6 mm.

[Example 7]
Processing was finished in the same manner as in Example 6 except that elastic fiber B was used instead of elastic fiber A.

[Example 8]
Nylon 66 (Leona (registered trademark) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 44dtex / 34f front, polyurethane polyurea elastic fiber (Roika (registered trademark) HS manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 280dtex in the middle and elastic fiber A placed in the back The knitted fabric was knitted under the following conditions. The polyurethane polyurea elastic fiber was stretched by 80% and warped.

<Knitting conditions>
・ Knitting machine: 28 gauge / 2.54 cm Russell knitting machine ・ Organization: Front 20/02/20/24/42/24
Middle 00/44/22/66/22/44
Back 00/22/00/22/00/22
・ Runner length: Front 114cm / 480 course
Middle 14cm / 480 course
Back 10cm / 480 course ・ Onboard course: 70 course / 2.54cm
The obtained knitted fabric was refined at 90 ° C. for 1 minute and pre-set, dyed and final-set in the same manner as in Example 4 to obtain a Russell knitted fabric.

[Example 9]
Processing was finished in the same manner as in Example 8 except that elastic fiber B was used instead of elastic fiber A.

[Example 10]
The finished knitted fabric obtained in Example 6 was finished by molding at 200 ° C.

[Example 11]
Processing was finished in the same manner as in Example 8 except that elastic fiber B was used instead of elastic fiber A in Example 10.

[Comparative Example 1]
Finishing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the preset temperature was 140 ° C. × 30 seconds.

[Comparative Example 2]
Finishing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the preset temperature was 210 ° C. × 30 seconds.

[Comparative Example 3]
In the production of the polyurethaneurea elastic fiber of Example 4, polyurethaneurea elastic fiber 44dtex (hereinafter referred to as elastic fiber C) was spun under the same conditions except that 4% of the urea compound having 4 urea bond units was not added.
It processed and finished by the method similar to Example 4 except having used said elastic fiber C instead of the elastic fiber A.

[Comparative Example 4]
Processing was finished in the same manner as in Example 6 except that elastic fiber C was used instead of elastic fiber A.

[Comparative Example 5]
Processing was finished in the same manner as in Example 8 except that elastic fiber C was used instead of elastic fiber A.

[Comparative Example 6]
Processing was finished in the same manner as in Example 10 except that elastic fiber C was used instead of elastic fiber A.
The evaluation results of the above Examples and Comparative Examples are summarized in Tables 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 below.
As is apparent from the table, the stretchable fabric of the present invention has no warps, good setability and high quality. In addition, there was no laughter, no eyes peeled, and the texture was soft. The moldability was good and the anti-bleeding effect was further improved.

  The stretchable fabric of the present invention has excellent processability, good finished product quality, little peeling, soft texture, and excellent durability. In particular, the stretchable fabric of the present invention is excellent in mold processability to be molded by heat, and also has an excellent anti-bleeding effect because polyurethane fibers jump out from the stitches that have spread when molded. Therefore, the stretchable fabric of the present invention can be suitably used as a stretchable functional material mainly in foundations, socks, swimwear, sportswear, leotards, and other clothing.

Claims (1)

  A stretchable fabric composed of polyurethane-based elastic fibers and polyamide-based synthetic fibers, wherein the polyurethane-based elastic fibers have a mixing ratio of 0.5 to 35% by mass, and the polyamide-based synthetic fibers have a mixing ratio of 65-99. The polyurethane elastic fiber is obtained by spinning a polyurethane solution obtained using a polyurethane prepolymer as a chain extender and ethylene glycol and a butanol as a terminal blocker by a dry spinning method. The polyurethane elastic fiber was preset at a preset temperature of 150 to 195 ° C. before dyeing, and the polyurethane elastic fiber was passed through a pin tenter set at 160 ° C. under 100% elongation for 60 seconds. The polyurethane elastic fiber has a set rate of 30% or more when it is passed through, and the polyurethane at the preset temperature System heat strength retention of the elastic fiber is 30% or more, and stretch fabrics heat force application of the polyurethane elastic fibers in the pre-set temperature is characterized by at 0.100cN / dtex or more.