JP2012127013A - Method for producing cellulose ester-based composite yarn, and woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cellulose ester-based composite yarn that is capable of imparting an excellent dry touch feeling, a glossy feeling, and a proper swelling feeling and an excellent elasticity to a woven or knitted fabric, and a woven or knitted fabric having such features.SOLUTION: The cellulose ester-based composite yarn 11 is prepared by combining a polyester crimped yarn 8 obtained by false-twist processing a polyester highly-oriented undrawn yarn 1 with a condition in which a false twist coefficient is 5.0×10-1.5×10, a false-twist temperature is (Tg+40°C) to (mp-30°C) (Tg: the glass-transition temperature of a polymer (°C), mp: the melting point of a polymer (°C)), and a twisting tension is 0.1-0.3 cN/dtex and a cellulose ester-based filament yarn 2 through a fiber-combining and entangling treatment. The woven or knitted fabric is obtained from the yarn.

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for producing a cellulose ester composite yarn and a woven or knitted fabric using the composite yarn.

  Conventionally, cellulose ester fiber has been used as a material for women's clothing with a high-class feeling due to its unique dry touch feeling, excellent color development, glossiness, and drape. However, cellulose ester fiber is excellent in drape, but lacks elasticity and resilience, and lack of yarn strength has been pointed out. Proposals have been made to give a feeling and improve the yarn strength.

  For example, Patent Documents 1 and 2 propose composite processed yarns in which an acetate fiber and a polyester composite fiber made of two kinds of polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are subjected to an air entanglement process and false twisted. In these proposals, the fabric made of this composite processed yarn has a harshness and repulsion feeling due to the polyester composite fiber, but the crimp, fluff, and loop imparted to the acetate fiber by false twisting give a warm feeling, and the acetate fiber It is difficult to obtain materials that give a sense of quality because the dry touch and glossiness that are features are impaired.

  Further, Patent Document 3 proposes a composite yarn obtained by twisting an acetate fiber and a crimped yarn obtained by false twisting of a polyester fiber. In this proposal, this composite yarn fabric has the dry touch feeling, glossiness, harshness, and resilience that are the characteristics of acetate fiber, but does not provide elasticity, and the combination of acetate fiber and polyester fiber crimped yarn. When twisting, there is a complexity in the quality of the composite yarn and the process management, such as mixing of twist in the composite yarn by adjusting the torque of the polyester fiber crimped yarn and adjusting the composite yarn tension.

JP 2004-332164 A JP 2007-32297 A JP 2010-24598 A

  An object of the present invention is to obtain a cellulose ester composite yarn capable of imparting a moderate swell and excellent elasticity to a woven or knitted fabric with an excellent dry touch feeling and glossiness, and a woven or knitted fabric having such features. Is to provide.

The gist of the first invention of the present invention is that a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn has a false twist coefficient of 5.0 × 10 ^{3 to} 1.5 × 10 ⁴ and a false twist temperature of (Tg + 40 ° C.) to (mp-30 ° C.). ) (Tg: polymer glass transition temperature (° C.), mp: polymer melting point (° C.)), polyester crimped yarn formed by false twisting at a twisting tension of 0.1 to 0.3 cN / dtex, A method for producing a cellulose ester composite yarn comprising combining a cellulose ester filament yarn with a mixed fiber entanglement treatment.
Further, the gist of the second invention of the present invention resides in a woven or knitted fabric using the cellulose ester composite yarn obtained by the above production method.

  The cellulose ester composite yarn of the present invention is capable of imparting a moderate swell and excellent elasticity to a woven or knitted fabric together with an excellent dry touch feeling and glossiness derived from the cellulose ester filament yarn. The woven or knitted fabric using the cellulose ester-based composite yarn of the invention has an appropriate dry feeling and glossiness, an appropriate swelling feeling and excellent elasticity, and is suitable as a material for high-class women's clothing. It is.

It is an example of the manufacturing apparatus of the cellulose-ester type composite yarn in this invention.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
<Polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn>
In the present invention, a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn used for obtaining a polyester crimped yarn is a multifilament yarn wound by spinning a polyester polymer containing polyethylene terephthalate as a main component at a speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min. It is. This polyester polymer used for spinning contains additives such as matting agents, stabilizers, flame retardants, and colorants, and copolymerization of functional components such as cationic dye dyeability and heat shrinkage properties. Or may have been blended. The polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn may have any cross-sectional shape such as a circular cross-section, a triangular cross-section, a Y-shaped cross-section, a hollow cross-section, or a composite structure composed of different components. It may be.

<Polyester crimped yarn>
In the present invention, it is necessary to use a specific polyester crimped yarn in order to allow the woven or knitted fabric to exhibit an appropriate feeling of swelling and elasticity. In order to obtain such a polyester crimped yarn, it is necessary to perform false twisting under conditions where the false twisting coefficient, false twisting temperature, and twisting tension are in specific ranges when false twisting the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn, respectively. There is. The false twisting coefficient is a coefficient indicated by the relationship between the fineness of the yarn subjected to false twisting and the number of false twists, and is represented by the following formula.
False twisting coefficient = number of false twists (t / m) × (fineness of yarn (dtex) ÷ 10 × 9) ^1/2
The false twisting of the highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn will be described with reference to the production apparatus shown in FIG. 1. The highly oriented polyester yarn 1 is supplied by the supply roller 3, and the false twisted heater 5 and the false twister 6 temporarily After imparting the twisted crimp, it is taken up by the take-up roller 7 to obtain a polyester crimped yarn 8.

<False twist coefficient>
False twisting coefficient used for general false twisting is 2.5 × 10 ⁴ ~3.5 × 10 about ^4, usually reduced false twist coefficient, i.e. as the number of false twist is reduced, the false twisting Since the crimped form to be shaped is roughened and the phases of the crimped forms among the multifilaments that are formed are easily aligned, the thread becomes a concentrated thread in which the torque is not dispersed. The contracted form becomes dense, and each of the multifilaments expresses torque, resulting in a bulky yarn in which the phases of the crimped forms between the multifilaments are disturbed and opened. The crimped form and the yarn torque greatly affect the feeling of swelling and elasticity when the composite yarn of the present invention is used to form a woven or knitted fabric.

In the present invention, the false twisting coefficient in the false twisting process of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn when obtaining the polyester crimped yarn needs to be in the range of 5.0 × 10 ^{3 to} 1.5 × 10 ^4. . Polyester crimped yarns having a false twist coefficient of 5.0 × 10 ³ or more exhibit elasticity due to the crimped form that causes the woven or knitted fabric to swell and the torque of the bundled yarns. Moreover, the polyester crimped yarn having a false twist coefficient of 1.5 × 10 ⁴ or less does not cause a dense crimped form or a knitted or knitted feeling of the woven or knitted fabric due to the opening of the multifilament.

Therefore, the polyester crimped yarn obtained with a false twisting factor of 5.0 × 10 ^{3 to} 1.5 × 10 ⁴ is opened by a subsequent mixed fiber entanglement process in which each multifilament yarn is appropriately opened or bundled. By forming a non-entangled portion in a fine state and an intertwined portion in a converged state, the woven or knitted fabric can exhibit a feeling of swelling and elasticity, and in order to obtain further excellent elasticity, the false twist coefficient is 5.0. × it is preferable that the ^{10 3 ~6.5} × ¹⁰ 3.

<False twist temperature>
In the present invention, the false twisting temperature in the false twisting process of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is the temperature of the false twisting heater 5 as shown in the production apparatus of FIG. In order to obtain the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention, the false twisting temperature should be in the range of (Tg + 40 ° C.) to (mp-30 ° C.). is necessary. By setting the false twisting temperature to (Tg + 40 ° C.) or higher, the orientation and crystallization of the polymer molecule of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn proceeds, and a crimped shape is obtained for expressing a feeling of swelling. (Mp-30 ° C.) or less, it is possible to improve the yarn convergence without fusing the multifilaments together, and to obtain a yarn torque that exhibits elasticity. With the false twisting temperature in the present invention, it is possible to obtain a polyester crimped yarn that does not cause deterioration in processing stability in false twisting, and that does not have a feeling of roughness or a feeling of rust when used as a woven or knitted fabric. In order to improve the degree of entanglement and processing stability, the false twisting temperature is preferably set to (mp-35 ° C.) or lower.

<Twisting tension>
Furthermore, the twisting tension in false twisting of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn in the present invention is the tension of the running yarn between the false twisting heater 5 and the false twisting tool 6 as shown in the production apparatus of FIG. It is set by the orientation of polymer molecules of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn, the crystallinity, false twisting coefficient, false twisting temperature, and the peripheral surface speed difference between the supply roller 3 and the take-up roller 7. This twisting tension has a great influence on the quality of polyester crimped yarn such as processing stability, untwisting, and fluff, so that the twisting tension in false twisting in the present invention is 0.1 to It is necessary to set the range of 0.3 cN / dtex.

  By setting the twisting tension to 0.1 cN / dtex or more, stable running of the yarn is possible, and there is no occurrence of ballooning in the twisting region, no twisting out or breakage of the yarn, and the yarn quality and processing stability are improved. Excellent polyester crimped yarn can be obtained, and by setting the twisting tension to 0.3 cN / dtex or less, excessive tension is not applied to the running yarn, and yarn quality such as fluff and yarn breakage and processing stability , And there is no problem such as wear of false twisters and rollers.

  In the present invention, a cellulose ester composite yarn is obtained by combining the polyester crimped yarn obtained by the false twisting and the cellulose ester filament yarn by a mixed entanglement treatment.

<Cellulose ester filament yarn>
In the present invention, the cellulose ester filament yarn combined with the polyester crimped yarn is easily obtained industrially by a dry spinning method, a melt spinning method or the like, and a cellulose acetate filament yarn excellent in dry touch feeling and glossiness is obtained. Preferably used are cellulose triacetate filament yarns or cellulose diacetate filament yarns, and cellulose acetate filament yarns having a breaking elongation of 30 to 45% are more preferably used. When the breaking elongation of the cellulose acetate filament yarn to be used is 30 to 45%, in the mixed fiber entanglement treatment when compounding with the polyester crimped yarn, the mixed fiber entangled property does not occur without causing the mixed fiber entangled spots and loop pulling. In the mixed entanglement process, twisting process, dyeing process and the like, fluff is not generated.

<Mixed fiber entanglement>
Generally, a mixed fiber entanglement nozzle is used for the mixed fiber entanglement process. The mixed fiber entangled nozzle includes an interlace nozzle and a fluid disturbance nozzle using pressurized air. In the present invention, an interlace nozzle is used as the mixed fiber entangled nozzle. It is preferable to carry out a mixed fiber entanglement treatment using the In mixed fiber entanglement processing using an interlace nozzle, a mixed fiber entangled part is formed intermittently on the yarn by a pressurized air jet orthogonal to the yarn, without impairing the glossiness of the cellulose ester filament yarn. Thus, a cellulose ester composite yarn having an appropriate feeling of swelling and excellent elasticity can be obtained.

  When the mixed entanglement treatment of the polyester crimped yarn obtained by false twisting the polyester highly oriented yarn in the present invention and the cellulose ester filament yarn is shown in the production apparatus of FIG. While being supplied to the mixed fiber entanglement nozzle 9 by the take-up roller 7, the cellulose ester filament yarn 2 is supplied to the mixed fiber entanglement nozzle 9 by the supply roller 4, and mixed fiber entangled by the mixed fiber entanglement nozzle 9. It is processed. The cellulose ester-based composite yarn 11 obtained by combining through the fiber-entanglement process is then taken up by the take-up roller 10 and wound around the cheese 12.

<Thread supply rate when compounding>
When a polyester crimped yarn and a cellulose ester filament yarn are combined by a mixed fiber entanglement treatment, the polyester crimp yarn supply rate is 0 to + 5%, and the cellulose ester filament yarn supply rate is -2 to + 5%. And When the supply rate of the polyester crimped yarn and the supply rate of the cellulose ester filament yarn are shown in the production apparatus of FIG. 1, the supply rate of the polyester crimped yarn is determined by the circumferential speed of the take-up roller 7 and the take-up roller 10 ( m / min), and the supply rate of the cellulose ester filament yarn is represented by the ratio of the peripheral surface speed (m / min) between the supply roller 4 and the take-up roller 10.

  By making the supply rate of the polyester crimped yarn 0% or more, the polyester crimped yarn is not excessively tensioned, and it is good by the pressurized air supplied to the mixed fiber entanglement nozzle while maintaining the convergence of the yarn. A good fiber-opening state, good entanglement with cellulose ester filament yarns and no mixed fibers, and a polyester crimped yarn supply rate of + 5% or less, resulting in mixed fiber due to oversupply. Stable fiber-entanglement processing is performed without causing yarn sway, mixed fiber spots, fluff, yarn breakage, etc. in front of the entanglement nozzle.

  In addition, when the supply rate of the cellulose ester filament yarn is set to -2% or more, good fiber-entanglement without occurrence of mixed fiber spots and fluff due to excessive tension is performed, and supply of the cellulose ester filament yarn is performed. By setting the rate to + 5% or less, stable fiber opening and entanglement processing is performed without causing yarn sway, mixed fiber unevenness, fluff, yarn breakage, and the like due to oversupply.

<Pressurized air pressure supplied to the interlacing nozzle>
The pressure of pressurized air supplied to the mixed fiber entanglement nozzle is related to the supply rate of polyester crimped yarn and cellulose ester filament yarn, running speed, etc. It is sufficient that the pressure is such that it does not occur, preferably 0.1 to 0.3 MPa, more preferably 0.1 to 0.2 MPa.

<Woven and knitted fabric of the present invention>
The cellulose ester composite yarn obtained by the present invention can be used as a constituent yarn of a woven or knitted fabric, and the woven or knitted fabric using the cellulose ester composite yarn according to the present invention is particularly about its weaving method and knitting method. There is no limitation, and the woven fabric is woven into a single woven fabric or a double woven fabric with a structure such as plain weave, twill woven, or satin weave, and the knitted fabric is knitted with a structure such as circular knitting, tricot, or flat knitting.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples.
In the following examples, the following yarns were used as the highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn and the cellulose ester filament yarn. In addition, physical property values and elasticity evaluation in the examples were based on the following methods.
<Polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn>
Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co., Ltd., Polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn, SD50 dtex / 24 filament (f), elongation at break 120%, glass transition temperature (Tg) 75 ° C., melting point (mp) 255 ° C. (hereinafter PET highly oriented) Called undrawn yarn)
<Cellulose ester filament yarn>
Made by Mitsubishi Rayon Textile, cellulose triacetate filament yarn, B84 dtex / 20f, elongation at break 38% (hereinafter referred to as triacetate filament yarn)

<Glass transition temperature (Tg) and melting point (mp) of polymer>
Using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC220 manufactured by Seiko Denshi Kogyo Co., Ltd.), the measurement was performed at a temperature rising rate of 10 ° C./min.
<Elongation at break of yarn>
A stress elongation curve was measured at a test length of 20 cm and a tensile speed of 20 cm / min using a strong elongation property measuring instrument (Autograph SD-100-C manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), and the elongation at the breaking point of the yarn was determined. .
<Evaluation of elasticity>
A single knitted fabric was not placed on the palm of the hand, and the elasticity was judged based on the sense of gripping the knitted fabric.
Evaluation of was performed by handling.

Example 1
Using a false twisting machine (manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd., LS-6 type), the PET highly oriented undrawn yarn is drawn with a draw ratio of 1.35, a twisting tension of 0.16 cN / dtex, a false twist number of 1100 t / m, and a false twist. The polyester crimped yarn (37 dtex / 24f) was manufactured by false twisting under a temperature of 220 ° C. The false twisting coefficient at the time of false twisting of this PET highly oriented undrawn yarn was 6.3 × 10 ³ .

  The obtained polyester crimped yarn and triacetate filament yarn were both supplied to an interlace nozzle with an air pressure of 0.2 MPa at a supply rate of + 2%, and mixed and entangled to obtain a cellulose ester composite yarn. The obtained cellulose ester composite yarn was knitted with a 20 gauge cylinder knitting machine (CR-B type, manufactured by Koike Machinery Co., Ltd.) to prepare a knitted fabric. This knitted fabric was dyed with a disperse dye at 130 ° C., dried, and evaluated for elasticity. The results are shown in Table 1 together with the conditions for producing polyester crimped yarn.

(Examples 2-6, Comparative Examples 1-4)
A polyester crimped yarn was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the conditions for producing the polyester crimped yarn (37 dtex / 24f) by false twisting were changed as shown in Table 1. The polyester crimped yarn and the triacetate filament yarn were mixed and entangled to obtain a cellulose ester composite yarn, a knitted fabric was prepared, dyed, and the elasticity was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1. It was shown to.

  The cellulose ester composite yarn according to the present invention has excellent dry touch feeling and glossiness, which are the characteristics of cellulose ester filament yarn, and can impart moderate swelling and excellent elasticity to a woven or knitted fabric. In addition, the knitted or knitted fabric using the cellulose ester composite yarn of the present invention has an excellent dry touch feeling and glossiness, a moderate swelling feeling and an excellent elasticity, and is a material for high-class women's clothing. Is extremely useful.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 2 Cellulose ester type filament yarn 3 Supply roller 4 Supply roller 5 False twisting heater 6 False twisting tool 7 Take-off roller 8 Polyester crimped yarn 9 Mixed fiber entanglement nozzle 10 Take-off roller 11 Cellulose ester composite Thread 12 Cheese

Claims (6)

Polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn has a false twist coefficient of 5.0 × 10 ^{3 to} 1.5 × 10 ⁴ and a false twist temperature of (Tg + 40 ° C.) to (mp-30 ° C.) (Tg: glass transition temperature of polymer (° C. ), Mp: melting point of polymer (° C.), twisting tension of 0.1 to 0.3 cN / dtex, polyester crimped yarn formed by false twisting and cellulose ester filament yarn are mixed and entangled A method for producing a cellulose ester composite yarn, wherein the composite yarn is composited by The method for producing a cellulose ester-based composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein a false twisting coefficient during false twisting is 5.0 × 10 ^{3 to} 6.5 × 10 ³ . The method for producing a cellulose ester-based composite processed yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the false twisting temperature during false twisting is (Tg + 40 ° C) to (mp-35 ° C). The supply rate of the polyester crimped yarn at the time of compounding by the mixed fiber entanglement treatment is 0 to + 5%, and the supply rate of the cellulose ester filament yarn is -2 to + 5%. The manufacturing method of the cellulose-ester type composite thread | yarn of description. The cellulose ester filament yarn is a cellulose triacetate filament yarn or a cellulose diacetate filament yarn, and a cellulose acetate filament yarn having a breaking elongation of 30 to 45% is used. Of producing a cellulose ester-based composite yarn. A woven or knitted fabric using the cellulose ester composite yarn obtained by the production method according to any one of claims 1 to 5.