以下、本発明の好適な実施形態について図面を参照して説明する。
Preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings.
図1において、本発明の3乃至4本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンのフレーム1は、ベッド部2と、ベッド部2の一端部から上方に立設する胴部3と、胴部3の上部よりベッド部2に平行に延びるアーム部4とから構成される。
In FIG. 1, a frame 1 of a 3 to 4 needle type upper sewing machine according to the present invention includes a bed portion 2, a trunk portion 3 standing upward from one end portion of the bed portion 2, and an upper portion of the trunk portion 3. The arm portion 4 extends in parallel with the bed portion 2.
3本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンのフレーム1の胴部3には、図14、図15に示すように、上側から糸調子5,6,7,8が配置されている。上側の3個の糸調子5は、シリコンタンク9、針糸道10 針棒糸道11を経由して3本の縫針12(第1縫針(左針)12a,第2縫針(中針)12b,第3縫針(右針)12c)にそれぞれ通される針糸131,132,133にそれぞれに所定の張力を付与するものである。また、その下の糸調子6,7は、シリコンタンク9の下部に設けた第1の飾り糸道14、第2の飾り糸道15等の飾り糸道、および縫針12の側方に配設された第1上飾り糸案内部材16Aおよび第2上飾り糸案内部材16Bを経由して上飾りスプレッダー(上飾りルーパー)17に通される第1上飾り糸18、第2上飾り糸19にそれぞれ所定の張力を与えるものであり、最下段の糸調子8は、ベッド部2の内部に配置される下ルーパー(図示省略)に通される下ルーパー糸20に所定の張力を与えるものである。
As shown in FIGS. 14 and 15, thread tensions 5, 6, 7, and 8 are arranged on the body 3 of the frame 1 of the three-needle type upper decoration sewing machine from the upper side. The upper three thread tensions 5 include three sewing needles 12 (first sewing needle (left needle) 12a, second sewing needle (middle needle) 12b) through a silicon tank 9, a needle thread path 10 and a needle bar thread path 11. , The third sewing needle (right needle) 12c) is applied with a predetermined tension to the needle threads 131, 132, 133 respectively. The lower thread tensions 6 and 7 are arranged on the side of the sewing thread 12 and the decorative thread paths such as the first decorative thread path 14 and the second decorative thread path 15 provided in the lower part of the silicon tank 9. The first upper decorative yarn 18 and the second upper decorative yarn 19 passed through the upper decorative spreader (upper looper) 17 via the first upper decorative yarn guide member 16A and the second upper decorative yarn guide member 16B. The thread tension 8 at the lowermost stage gives a predetermined tension to the lower looper thread 20 passed through a lower looper (not shown) disposed inside the bed portion 2. .
3本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンのアーム部4には、図2に示すミシン主軸(上軸)21が内蔵され、このミシン主軸21によって針棒22がミシン主軸21の左端に固定した針棒クランク23等を介して上下に往復駆動される。図15に示すように、針棒22の下端部には針抱き24が固着され、この針抱き24に3本の縫針12(第1縫針(左縫針)12a,第2縫針(中縫針)12b,第3縫針(右縫針)12c)が針先端の位置を順次高くする階段状になるように針高をずらして配置固定されている。すなわち、第1縫針12aの先端が最も低く、その隣りの第2縫針12bの先端がそれよりも少し高く、第3縫針12cの先端が最も高くなるような階段状に配置固定されている。
A sewing machine main shaft (upper shaft) 21 shown in FIG. 2 is built in the arm portion 4 of the three-needle type top cover sewing machine, and a needle bar 22 is fixed to the left end of the sewing machine main shaft 21 by the sewing machine main shaft 21. It is reciprocated up and down via a crank 23 and the like. As shown in FIG. 15, a needle clamp 24 is fixed to the lower end portion of the needle bar 22, and three needles 12 (first sewing needle (left sewing needle) 12a, second sewing needle (medium sewing needle) 12b are attached to the needle clamp 24. , The third sewing needle (right sewing needle) 12c) is arranged and fixed by shifting the needle height so as to form a stepped shape that gradually increases the position of the needle tip. That is, the tips of the first sewing needle 12a are the lowest, the tips of the second sewing needle 12b adjacent to the first sewing needle 12a are slightly higher, and the tips of the third sewing needle 12c are arranged and fixed in a stepped manner.
図2、図15に示すように、針棒22が配置されるアーム部4には、第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bと上飾りスプレッダー17が設けられる。
図2〜図13を参照にして、上飾りスプレッダー17を往復揺動する周知の揺動機構25、および上飾りスプレッダー17と共に往復揺動する第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bの新規な揺動機構26について説明する。
As shown in FIGS. 2 and 15, the arm portion 4 on which the needle bar 22 is disposed is provided with first and second upper decoration thread guide members 16 </ b> A and 16 </ b> B and an upper decoration spreader 17.
2 to 13, a known swing mechanism 25 that reciprocally swings the top ornament spreader 17, and first and second top decoration thread guide members 16A and 16B that swing back and forth together with the top ornament spreader 17 are novel. The swing mechanism 26 will be described.
先ず、上飾りスプレッダー17の揺動機構25について説明すると、図2〜図5に示すように、ミシン主軸21には偏心カム27が固着され、この偏心カム27には連結レバー部28aを有するロッド28が外嵌され、このロッド28の連結レバー部28aが、ミシン主軸21と平行に配設された駆動軸(飾り振り軸)29の突出レバー29aに枢支連結されている。駆動軸29の左端部には揺動レバー30が固着され、この揺動レバー30の先端部30aが鉛直なスプレッダー軸31の上端部に一体に設けたクランク32のクランクピン32aに挿通連結された連結ピン部材33に連結されている。
First, the swing mechanism 25 of the upper spreader 17 will be described. As shown in FIGS. 2 to 5, an eccentric cam 27 is fixed to the sewing machine main shaft 21, and a rod having a connecting lever portion 28a is attached to the eccentric cam 27. The connecting lever portion 28 a of the rod 28 is pivotally connected to a protruding lever 29 a of a drive shaft (decoration swing shaft) 29 disposed in parallel to the sewing machine main shaft 21. A swing lever 30 is fixed to the left end portion of the drive shaft 29, and a tip portion 30 a of the swing lever 30 is inserted and connected to a crank pin 32 a of a crank 32 provided integrally with an upper end portion of a vertical spreader shaft 31. The connecting pin member 33 is connected.
図6〜図13に示すように、スプレッダー軸31の下端部にはスプレッダー駆動アーム34が固着され、この駆動アーム34の先端部に上飾りスプレッダー17の鉛直軸部17aが挿通固定されている。上飾りスプレッダー17には、第1上飾り糸案内部材16Aを通過した第1上飾り糸18と第2上飾り糸案内部材16Bを通過した第2上飾り糸19をそれぞれ引掛ける第1糸引掛け部37および第2糸引掛け部38を設けている。図2において、ミシン主軸21が所定の方向に回転駆動されると、偏心カム27を介してロッド28が揺動するのに伴って駆動軸(飾り振り軸)29と揺動レバー30とが同時に往復揺動し、連結ピン部材33およびクランクピン32a、クランク32によるユニバーサルジョイント的な連結機構を介してスプレッダー軸31が鉛直軸心回りに往復揺動する。上飾りスプレッダー17は第1縫針12a,第2縫針12b,第3縫針12cの上下の動作に合わせて左右方向に往復揺動する。
As shown in FIGS. 6 to 13, the spreader drive arm 34 is fixed to the lower end portion of the spreader shaft 31, and the vertical shaft portion 17 a of the upper spreader 17 is inserted and fixed to the tip portion of the drive arm 34. A first thread hook for hooking the first upper decorative thread 18 that has passed through the first upper decorative thread guide member 16A and the second upper decorative thread 19 that has passed through the second upper decorative thread guide member 16B is respectively applied to the upper decorative spreader 17. A portion 37 and a second yarn hooking portion 38 are provided. In FIG. 2, when the sewing machine main shaft 21 is rotationally driven in a predetermined direction, the drive shaft (decoration shaft) 29 and the swing lever 30 are simultaneously moved as the rod 28 swings via the eccentric cam 27. The spreader shaft 31 reciprocally swings around the vertical axis via a universal joint-like connection mechanism including the connecting pin member 33, the crank pin 32a, and the crank 32. The upper sprinkler 17 swings back and forth in the left-right direction in accordance with the up and down movements of the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c.
次に、第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bの新規な揺動機構26について説明すると、図2〜図13に示すように、スプレッダー軸31の下端部であってスプレッダー駆動アーム34の上側には飾り糸案内部材駆動アーム39が固着され、この飾り糸案内部材駆動アーム39に二又ロッド40の一端の二又部40aが枢軸41で連結され、二又ロッド40の他端部に飾り糸案内部材軸42の上端に固着したクランク43のクランクピン43aが挿通結合され、この飾り糸案内部材軸42の下端に上下二つの第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16B,16Aが挿通固定される。フレーム1のアーム部4には上部取付ブラケット52がビス53で固定され、この上部取付ブラケット52に下部取付ブラケット55がビス54で固定され、この下部取付ブラケット55に設けた軸受筒部55aに飾り糸案内部材軸42が挿通支持される。しかるときは、上飾りスプレッダー17の左右方向の往復揺動と同時に、第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bが飾り糸案内部材駆動アーム39、二又ロッド40、及び飾り糸案内部材軸42を介して左右方向に往復揺動する。
Next, the novel swing mechanism 26 of the first and second upper thread guide members 16A and 16B will be described. As shown in FIGS. 2 to 13, the lower end portion of the spreader shaft 31 and the spreader drive arm 34 are arranged. A decorative thread guide member driving arm 39 is fixed to the upper side, and a bifurcated portion 40a of one end of the bifurcated rod 40 is connected to the decorative thread guide member drive arm 39 by a pivot 41, and is connected to the other end of the bifurcated rod 40. The crank pin 43a of the crank 43 fixed to the upper end of the decorative yarn guide member shaft 42 is inserted and coupled, and the upper and lower first and second upper decorative yarn guide members 16B and 16A are inserted and fixed to the lower end of the decorative yarn guide member shaft 42. Is done. An upper mounting bracket 52 is fixed to the arm portion 4 of the frame 1 with a screw 53, and a lower mounting bracket 55 is fixed to the upper mounting bracket 52 with a screw 54, and is decorated on a bearing cylinder portion 55 a provided on the lower mounting bracket 55. The thread guide member shaft 42 is inserted and supported. At the same time, simultaneously with the reciprocating swinging of the upper decoration spreader 17 in the left-right direction, the first and second upper decoration yarn guide members 16A and 16B are arranged so that the decoration yarn guide member driving arm 39, the forked rod 40, and the decoration yarn guide member shaft. It swings back and forth in the left-right direction via 42.
そして、図13、図15に示すように、第1上飾り糸案内部材16Aは先端部161をL字形状に形成し、この先端部161に第1上飾り糸18を通すため第1上飾り糸挿通孔35がトンネル状に貫通して設けられ、第2上飾り糸案内部材16Bの先端部163には第2上飾り糸19を通すための第2上飾り糸挿通孔44が設けられる。そして、第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16B,16Aは往復揺動方向に位置調整可能に構成する。すなわち、図6〜図12に示すように、第1上飾り糸案内部材16Aの後端基部162および第2上飾り糸案内部材16Bの後端基部164は飾り糸案内部材軸42の下端にそれぞれ鉛直軸心まわりに往復揺動可能に挿通されてネジ45で固定され、そのネジ45を緩めることで第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bはそれぞれ往復揺動方向に位置調整可能としてある。したがって、例えば、第1上飾り糸案内部材16Aの位置調整により、第1上飾り糸18を第2縫針12bの後ろの位置(図20(a)参照)に通すことができるように第1上飾り糸案内部材16Aの揺動開始角を調整できる。
As shown in FIGS. 13 and 15, the first upper decoration thread guide member 16 </ b> A has a tip portion 161 formed in an L shape, and the first upper decoration thread 18 is passed through the tip section 161 to pass the first upper decoration thread 18. A thread insertion hole 35 is provided penetrating in a tunnel shape, and a second upper decoration thread insertion hole 44 through which the second upper decoration thread 19 is passed is provided at the distal end portion 163 of the second upper decoration thread guide member 16B. The first and second upper thread guide members 16B and 16A are configured to be positionally adjustable in the reciprocating swinging direction. That is, as shown in FIGS. 6 to 12, the rear end base 162 of the first upper decoration thread guide member 16 </ b> A and the rear end base 164 of the second upper decoration thread guide member 16 </ b> B are respectively connected to the lower end of the decoration thread guide member shaft 42. It is inserted so as to be reciprocally swingable around the vertical axis and fixed with a screw 45, and by loosening the screw 45, the positions of the first and second upper thread guide members 16A and 16B can be adjusted in the reciprocating swing direction. . Therefore, for example, by adjusting the position of the first upper decoration thread guide member 16A, the first upper decoration thread 18 can be passed through the position behind the second sewing needle 12b (see FIG. 20A). The swing start angle of the decorative yarn guide member 16A can be adjusted.
いま、図2において、ミシン主軸21が所定の方向に回転駆動されると、偏心カム27を介してロッド28が揺動するのに伴って駆動軸(飾り振り軸)29と揺動レバー30とが同時に往復揺動し、連結ピン部材33およびクランクピン32a、クランク32によるユニバーサルジョイント的な連結機構を介してスプレッダー軸31が鉛直軸心回りに往復回動するので、上飾りスプレッダー17は、図12に示すように、一定揺動角の範囲内で左方向(時計回り方向)に揺動され、また前記一定揺動角の範囲内で右方向(反時計回り方向)に揺動される。同図12に示すように、この上飾りスプレッダー17の左右方向の往復揺動と同時に、第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bが左右方向に往復揺動する。このように、第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bは、上飾りスプレッダー17と共に左右に往復揺動するように構成することで、第1上飾り糸18と第2上飾り糸19を第1上飾り糸挿通孔35と第2上飾り糸挿通孔44を介して上飾りスプレッダー17の第1糸引掛け部37および第2糸引掛け部38に円滑且つ安定確実に案内移動させることができ、第1上飾り糸18、第2上飾り糸19の糸切れや目飛びを防止できる。
Now, in FIG. 2, when the sewing machine main shaft 21 is driven to rotate in a predetermined direction, the drive shaft (decoration shaft) 29 and the swing lever 30 are moved as the rod 28 swings through the eccentric cam 27. Simultaneously reciprocally swings, and the spreader shaft 31 reciprocates around the vertical axis through a universal joint-like coupling mechanism including the coupling pin member 33, the crank pin 32a, and the crank 32. As shown in FIG. 12, it is swung leftward (clockwise) within a range of a constant rocking angle, and is swung rightward (counterclockwise) within the range of the constant rocking angle. As shown in FIG. 12, simultaneously with the reciprocating swinging of the upper decoration spreader 17 in the left-right direction, the first and second upper decoration thread guide members 16A, 16B reciprocate in the left-right direction. As described above, the first and second upper decorative yarn guide members 16A and 16B are configured to swing back and forth together with the upper decorative spreader 17 so that the first upper decorative yarn 18 and the second upper decorative yarn 19 are connected. It can be smoothly and stably guided and moved to the first yarn hooking portion 37 and the second yarn hooking portion 38 of the upper ornament spreader 17 through the first upper ornament thread insertion hole 35 and the second upper ornament thread insertion hole 44. , Breakage and skipping of the first upper decorative yarn 18 and the second upper decorative yarn 19 can be prevented.
次に、上記3本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンにより図16(a)、(b)に示されるごとき上飾り縫目を形成する過程について図17(a)、(b)〜図22(a)、(b)を参照して説明する。
Next, the process of forming the upper decorative seam as shown in FIGS. 16 (a) and 16 (b) by the above-described three-needle type upper decorative sewing machine will be described with reference to FIGS. 17 (a), 17 (b) to 22 (a). ) And (b) will be described.
予め、第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bは、図20(a)、(b)に示すように、ミシン主軸21の回転角が180度で3本の第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが最も高い位置である上死点の位置まで上昇した時点の状態において、第1上飾り糸18が第2縫針12bの後ろを、第2上飾り糸19が第2縫針12bの手前をそれぞれ通るように第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bのそれぞれの揺動開始角を調整しておく。
As shown in FIGS. 20 (a) and 20 (b), the first and second upper thread guide members 16A and 16B are previously provided with three first sewing needles 12a, When the sewing needle 12b and the third sewing needle 12c are raised to the top dead center, which is the highest position, the first upper decorative thread 18 is behind the second sewing needle 12b, and the second upper decorative thread 19 is the first. The swing start angles of the first and second upper decorative thread guide members 16A and 16B are adjusted so as to pass in front of the two sewing needles 12b.
第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cにはそれぞれ針糸131,132,133が通され、第1上飾り糸18は第1上飾り糸案内部材16Aの第1上飾り糸挿通孔35に対応して通され、第2上飾り糸19は第2上飾り糸案内部材16Bの第2上飾り糸挿通孔44に対応して通される。第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cのそれぞれの針糸131,132,133は全て同一もしくは類似の色の針糸、またはそれぞれ異なる色の針糸を使用することができる。第1上飾り糸18及び第2上飾り糸19はそれぞれ異なる色の糸、あるいは共に同一もしくは類似の色の糸を使用し、かつ針糸131,132,133とは異なる色にすることができる。
Needle threads 131, 132, and 133 are passed through the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c, respectively, and the first upper decorative thread 18 is the first upper decorative thread of the first upper decorative thread guide member 16A. The second upper decorative thread 19 is passed in correspondence with the insertion hole 35, and is passed in correspondence with the second upper decorative thread insertion hole 44 of the second upper decorative thread guide member 16B. The needle threads 131, 132, 133 of the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c can all use the same or similar color needle threads or different color needle threads. The first upper decorative yarn 18 and the second upper decorative yarn 19 may use different colored yarns, or the same or similar colored yarns, and may have different colors from the needle yarns 131, 132, 133. .
まず、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cにそれぞれ通されている3本の針糸131,132,133と第1上飾り糸案内部材16A下の第1上飾り糸18及び第2上飾り糸案内部材16B下の第2上飾り糸19とが縫製生地46の進行方向へ引っ張られ、図17(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸の回転角が0度(360度)で3本の第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが最も低い位置である下死点の位置にまで下降した時点の状態図)に示すように縫製開始時は、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが完全に縫製生地46を貫通し、かつ下ルーパー糸20(図14参照)の糸ガイド構造体(図示せず)が第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cの上下動作に合わせて、図16(b)に示すように下ルーパー糸20と第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cの各針糸131,132,133を掛合させて固定する(この技術は周知であるため説明を省略する)。このとき、上飾りスプレッダー17が第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cから最も離れた位置にある。第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cに通された各針糸131,132,133と下ルーパー糸20が上記のように掛合固定された後、第1上飾り糸18と第2上飾り糸19も針糸131,132,133により縫製生地46の表面上に固定される。
First, three needle threads 131, 132, 133 passed through the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c, respectively, and the first upper decorative thread 18 below the first upper decorative thread guide member 16A. 17 and the second upper decorative thread 19 below the second upper decorative thread guide member 16B are pulled in the direction of travel of the sewing fabric 46, and FIGS. 17A and 17B (the rotation angle of the main spindle of the sewing machine is 0 degrees (360 degrees). ), The three first sewing needles 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c are lowered to the bottom dead center position, which is the lowest position). The first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c completely penetrate the sewing material 46, and the thread guide structure (not shown) of the lower looper thread 20 (see FIG. 14) is the first sewing needle 12a, In accordance with the vertical movement of the second sewing needle 12b and the third sewing needle 12c, 6 (b), the lower looper thread 20 and the needle threads 131, 132, 133 of the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c are engaged and fixed (this technique is well known). Therefore, explanation is omitted). At this time, the upper surface spreader 17 is at the position farthest from the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c. After the needle threads 131, 132, 133 passed through the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c and the lower looper thread 20 are hooked and fixed as described above, the first upper decoration thread 18 The second upper decorative thread 19 is also fixed on the surface of the sewing fabric 46 by the needle threads 131, 132, 133.
次いで、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cは図18(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸21の回転角が60度で3本の第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが下死点と上死点の中間の位置まで少し上昇した時点の状態図)、図19(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸21の回転角が120度で第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが下死点と上死点の中間の位置まで更に上昇した時点の状態図)に示すように上方向に動作し、上飾りスプレッダー17が第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cの上方向への動作に合わせて左方向に揺動する。このとき、上飾りスプレッダー17の第1糸引掛け部37が第1上飾り糸18を、第2糸引掛け部38が第2上飾り糸19をそれぞれ引掛けて行く。
Next, the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c are shown in FIGS. 18A and 18B (when the rotation angle of the sewing machine main shaft 21 is 60 degrees, the three first sewing needles 12a and the second sewing needle 12b , And a state diagram when the third sewing needle 12c is slightly raised to a position between the bottom dead center and the top dead center), FIGS. 19A and 19B (first rotation angle of the sewing machine main shaft 21 is 120 degrees). The sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c are moved upward as shown in a state diagram when the sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c are further raised to a position between the bottom dead center and the top dead center. It swings to the left in accordance with the upward movement of the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c. At this time, the first yarn hooking portion 37 of the upper ornament spreader 17 hooks the first upper yarn 18 and the second yarn hooking portion 38 hooks the second upper yarn 19.
次いで、縫製生地46が送られ、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが図20(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸21の回転角が180度で3本の第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが最も高い位置である上死点の位置まで上昇した時点の状態図)に示すように上方向へ動作し、あらかじめ定められた上死点の位置に達すると、上飾りスプレッダー17が動作可能な範囲の左方向の限界点まで揺動し、右方向へ戻る揺動の準備が完了する。このとき注目すべきは、第1上飾り糸案内部材16Aの先端部161が第1縫針12aと第2縫針12bとの間を手前側より後方へ進入移動することで第1上飾り糸18は第1縫針12aの手前を、第2縫針12bの後ろを通り、第2上飾り糸19は第2縫針12bの手前を、第3縫針12cの後ろを通る点である。
Next, the sewing cloth 46 is fed, and the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c are moved to the first sewing needle 12c shown in FIGS. The sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c operate upward as shown in FIG. When the position is reached, the upper spreader 17 swings to the limit point in the left direction within the operable range, and the preparation for swinging back to the right is completed. It should be noted at this time that the first upper decorative yarn 18 is moved by moving the front end 161 of the first upper decorative yarn guiding member 16A from the front side toward the rear between the first sewing needle 12a and the second sewing needle 12b. The second sewing thread 19 is passed through the front of the first sewing needle 12a and the back of the second sewing needle 12b, and the second upper decorative thread 19 passes through the front of the second sewing needle 12b and the back of the third sewing needle 12c.
次に、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが図21(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸21の回転角が240度で3本の第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが上死点と下死点の中間の位置まで下降した時点の状態図)に示すように下方向に動作を開始すると、上飾りスプレッダー17も右方向に向かって揺動を開始する。
Next, the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c are shown in FIGS. 21 (a) and 21 (b) (the rotation angle of the sewing machine main shaft 21 is 240 degrees, the three first sewing needles 12a and the second sewing needles). 12b and when the third sewing needle 12c starts to move downward as shown in the state diagram when it is lowered to a position between the top dead center and the bottom dead center), the upper spreader 17 also swings to the right. Start moving.
第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが図22(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸21の回転角が300度で3本の第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが上死点と下死点の中間の位置まで下降した時点の状態図)に示すように下方向に動作すると、上飾りスプレッダー17も右方向に揺動し、第1糸引掛け部37から第1上飾り糸18を、第2糸引掛け部38から第2上飾り糸19をそれぞれ解放させ、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが下方向に動作するため、第1縫針12aの針糸131が第1上飾り糸18を押さえて縫製生地46に縫い付け、また第2縫針12bの針糸132が第1上飾り糸18と第2上飾り糸19を同時に押さえて縫製生地46に縫い付け、更に又第3縫針12cの針糸133が第2上飾り糸19を押さえて縫製生地46に縫い付けて(図16(a)参照)、1回の縫いの動作が完了する。
22 (a) and 22 (b) (the rotation angle of the sewing machine main shaft 21 is 300 degrees, the three first sewing needles 12a, the second sewing needles 12b, and the third sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c When the third sewing needle 12c is moved downward as shown in a state diagram when the third sewing needle 12c is lowered to a position between the top dead center and the bottom dead center), the upper spreader 17 is also swung to the right and the first thread hook is hooked. The first upper decorative thread 18 is released from the portion 37 and the second upper decorative thread 19 is released from the second thread hooking portion 38, and the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c operate downward. Therefore, the needle thread 131 of the first sewing needle 12a presses the first upper decoration thread 18 and is sewn to the sewing fabric 46, and the needle thread 132 of the second sewing needle 12b is the first upper decoration thread 18 and the second upper decoration thread 19. Are simultaneously sewn on the sewing fabric 46, and the third sewing needle 12 is also sewn. The needle thread 133 is sewn to the sewing fabric 46 presses the second upper cover thread 19 (see FIG. 16 (a)), the operation of the one stitch is completed.
第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、及び第3縫針12cが図17(a)、(b)〜図22(a)、(b)に示すように繰り返し上下動作を継続するとき、上飾りスプレッダー17の左右の揺動で第1上飾り糸18及び第2上飾り糸19を引掛け及び解放する動作を組み合わせることにより、図16(a)、(b)に示すように、第1上飾り糸18が縫製生地46を貫く左側の針糸131の縫目である第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sとこの隣りで同じく縫製生地46を貫く中間の針糸132の縫目である第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sとにループ状に絡み合わされてジグザグ状に縫い込まれ、第2上飾り糸19は第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sとこの隣りで同じく縫製生地46を貫く右側の針糸133の縫目である第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sとにループ状に絡み合わされてジグザグ状に縫い込まれ、かつ、第1上飾り糸18の各ループ部18Rは第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sの隣り合う針目131p,131p間および第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sの隣り合う針目132p,132p間にそれぞれ跨り、第2上飾り糸19の各ループ部19Rは第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sの隣り合う針目132p,132p間および第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sの隣り合う針目133p,133p間にそれぞれ跨る、という上飾り縫目構造156が形成される。
When the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c continue to move up and down repeatedly as shown in FIGS. 17 (a), (b) to 22 (a), (b), the upper spreader As shown in FIGS. 16 (a) and 16 (b), the first upper decorative yarn 18 and the second upper decorative yarn 19 are combined by the movement of hooking and releasing the first upper decorative yarn 18 and the first upper decorative yarn 19 by swinging left and right. The first sewing thread stitch 131S, which is the stitch of the left needle thread 131 through which the thread 18 penetrates the sewing cloth 46, and the second sewing thread stitch 132S, which is the seam of the intermediate needle thread 132 that also passes through the sewing cloth 46 next to the sewing thread 46. The second upper decorative thread 19 is a third stitch that is a seam of the right needle thread 133 that penetrates the sewing cloth 46 and the second sewing thread thread 132S next to the second sewing thread thread 132S. Needle thread stitch 133S The loop portions 18R of the first upper thread 18 are interlaced between adjacent stitches 131p, 131p of the first sewing thread stitch 131S and adjacent to the second sewing thread stitch 132S. The loop portions 19R of the second upper decoration thread 19 straddle between the matching stitches 132p and 132p, and the adjacent stitches 133p and 133p of the second sewing thread stitch 132S and between the adjacent stitches 132p and 132p of the second sewing thread stitch 132S. An upper decorative stitch structure 156 is formed so as to straddle each other.
このような上飾り縫目構造は、図16(a),(b)に示すように、3本針偏平縫いで2本の第1、2上飾り糸18,19を使用し、第1上飾り糸18は縫製生地46を貫く左側の針糸131の縫目である第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sとその隣りの中間の針糸132の縫目である第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sとにループ状に絡み合わされてジグザグ状に縫い込まれ、第2上飾り糸19は第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sと右側の針糸133の縫目である第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sとにループ状に絡み合わされてジグザグ状に縫い込まれたものである。
As shown in FIGS. 16 (a) and 16 (b), such an upper decorative stitch structure uses two first and second upper decorative threads 18 and 19 by three-needle flat stitching. The decorative thread 18 is looped into a first sewing thread stitch 131S that is the stitch of the left needle thread 131 that penetrates the sewing fabric 46 and a second sewing thread stitch 132S that is the stitch of the adjacent intermediate needle thread 132. The second upper decoration thread 19 is intertwined in a zigzag manner and looped around the second sewing thread stitch 132S and the third sewing thread stitch 133S, which is the stitch of the right needle thread 133. It is sewn into.
このように第1上飾り糸18および第2上飾り糸19を縫い込むことにより、第1上飾り糸18によるジグザグ模様と第2上飾り糸19によるジグザグ模様とを左右に明確に分離独立して出現できるため、第1上飾り糸18の色と第2上飾り糸19の色とがよく目立ち、目立ち感を強める明視性の高い色の縫目模様を得ることができる。
By sewing the first upper decorative thread 18 and the second upper decorative thread 19 in this way, the zigzag pattern formed by the first upper decorative thread 18 and the zigzag pattern formed by the second upper decorative thread 19 are clearly separated on the left and right. Therefore, the color of the first upper decorative thread 18 and the color of the second upper decorative thread 19 are conspicuous, and a stitch pattern with a high visibility that enhances the conspicuousness can be obtained.
また、第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sと第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sとの間では第1上飾り糸18のみの縫目が、また第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sと第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sとの間では第2上飾り糸19のみの縫目がそれぞれ分離独立して存在することにより、第1上飾り糸18の縫目と第2上飾り糸19の縫目とが重なり合うようなことがなくなるため、全体がフラットな縫目となり、肌接触時の肌触りが良くなる。
さらに、第1上飾り糸18の張力と第2上飾り糸19の張力をそれぞれ独自に変更させることができる。このため、例えば、第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sと第2縫針糸ステッチ132S間ではゆったりとした緩み状態に、第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sと第3縫針糸ステッチ133S間では引き締まり状態に縫い調子を異ならせることができる。逆に、第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sと第2縫針糸ステッチ132S間では引き締まり状態に、第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sと第3縫針糸ステッチ133S間ではゆったりとした緩み状態に縫い調子を異ならせることもできる。
Further, only the first upper thread 18 is stitched between the first stitch thread stitch 131S and the second stitch thread stitch 132S, and between the second stitch thread stitch 132S and the third stitch thread stitch 133S. 2 Since the stitches of only the upper decorative thread 19 are separated and independent, the first upper decorative thread 18 and the second upper decorative thread 19 do not overlap each other. Becomes a flat seam and feels better when touching the skin.
Further, the tension of the first upper decorative yarn 18 and the tension of the second upper decorative yarn 19 can be independently changed. For this reason, for example, the sewing tone is made different between the first sewing thread stitch 131S and the second sewing thread stitch 132S in a loosely loose state and between the second sewing thread stitch 132S and the third sewing thread stitch 133S in a tightened state. be able to. On the contrary, the sewing tone may be changed between the first sewing thread stitch 131S and the second sewing thread stitch 132S in a tightened state and between the second sewing thread stitch 132S and the third sewing thread stitch 133S in a loosely loose state. it can.
そして、第1上飾り糸18の各ループ部18Rは第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sの隣り合う針目131p,131p間および第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sの隣り合う針目132p,132p間にそれぞれ跨っており、第2上飾り糸19の各ループ部19Rは第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sの隣り合う針目132p,132p間および第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sの隣り合う針目133p,133p間にそれぞれ跨っているものとした。これにより、第1上飾り糸18の各ループ部18Rの曲率および第2上飾り糸19の各ループ部19Rの曲率をそれぞれ大きくできて、ジグザグ状模様を透き間の少ない目の詰んだ帯状模様に近い様子に変現することができるため、第1上飾り糸18および第2上飾り糸19がそれぞれもつ色を明確に表すことができ、色の面積効果を上げて装飾性を高めることができる。
Each loop portion 18R of the first upper decoration thread 18 straddles between the adjacent stitches 131p, 131p of the first sewing thread stitch 131S and between the adjacent stitches 132p, 132p of the second sewing thread stitch 132S. Each loop portion 19R of the second upper decorative thread 19 spans between the adjacent stitches 132p, 132p of the second sewing thread stitch 132S and between the adjacent stitches 133p, 133p of the third sewing thread stitch 133S. As a result, the curvature of each loop portion 18R of the first upper decorative yarn 18 and the curvature of each loop portion 19R of the second upper decorative yarn 19 can be respectively increased, and the zigzag pattern is changed to a band-like pattern with a small amount of clearness. Since it can be transformed into a close state, the colors of the first upper decorative yarn 18 and the second upper decorative yarn 19 can be clearly expressed, and the decorativeness can be enhanced by increasing the color area effect. .
このように図16に示すような上飾り縫目構造は3本針タイプの上記上飾り縫いミシンにより簡単に得ることができる。
As described above, the upper decorative stitch structure as shown in FIG. 16 can be easily obtained by the above-mentioned upper decorative stitch sewing machine of the three-needle type.
上記実施例では3本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンにより図16に示すような上飾り縫目構造を得る場合について説明したが、4本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンにより図25に示すような上飾り縫目構造を簡単に得ることもできる。
In the above embodiment, a case has been described in which an upper decorative stitch structure as shown in FIG. 16 is obtained by a three-needle type upper decorative sewing machine. However, an upper decorative sewing machine as shown in FIG. A decorative stitch structure can be easily obtained.
次に、4本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンについて説明する。
Next, a four-needle type upper sewing machine will be described.
4本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンのフレーム1の胴部3には、図23、図24に示すように、上側から糸調子5,6,7,8が配置されている。上側の4個の糸調子5は、シリコンタンク9、針糸道10 針棒糸道11を経由して4本の縫針12(第1縫針(左針)12a,第2縫針(中針)12b,第3縫針(中針)12c,第4縫針(右針)12d)にそれぞれ通される針糸131,132,133,134にそれぞれに所定の張力を付与するものである。また、その下の糸調子6,7は、シリコンタンク9の下部に設けた第1の飾り糸道14、第2の飾り糸道15等の飾り糸道、および縫針12の側方に配設された第1上飾り糸案内部材16Aおよび第2上飾り糸案内部材16Bを経由して上飾りスプレッダー(上飾りルーパー)17に通される第1上飾り糸18、第2上飾り糸19にそれぞれ所定の張力を与えるものであり、最下段の糸調子8は、ベッド部2の内部に配置される下ルーパー(図示省略)に通される下ルーパー糸20に所定の張力を与えるものである。
As shown in FIGS. 23 and 24, thread tensions 5, 6, 7, and 8 are arranged on the body 3 of the frame 1 of the four-needle type upper decoration sewing machine from the upper side. The upper four thread tensions 5 include four sewing needles 12 (first sewing needle (left needle) 12a, second sewing needle (middle needle) 12b via a silicon tank 9, a needle thread path 10 and a needle bar thread path 11. , The third sewing needle (middle needle) 12c, and the fourth sewing needle (right needle) 12d) are each given a predetermined tension to the needle threads 131, 132, 133, and 134. The lower thread tensions 6 and 7 are arranged on the side of the sewing thread 12 and the decorative thread paths such as the first decorative thread path 14 and the second decorative thread path 15 provided in the lower part of the silicon tank 9. The first upper decorative yarn 18 and the second upper decorative yarn 19 passed through the upper decorative spreader (upper looper) 17 via the first upper decorative yarn guide member 16A and the second upper decorative yarn guide member 16B. The thread tension 8 at the lowermost stage gives a predetermined tension to the lower looper thread 20 passed through a lower looper (not shown) disposed inside the bed portion 2. .
4本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンのアーム部4には、3本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンのアーム部4の場合と同様に、図2に示すミシン主軸(上軸)21が内蔵され、このミシン主軸21によって針棒22がミシン主軸21の左端に固定した針棒クランク23等を介して上下に往復駆動される。図24に示すように、針棒22の下端部には針抱き24が固着され、この針抱き24に4本の縫針12(第1縫針(左縫針)12a,第2縫針(中縫針)12b,第3縫針(中縫針)12c,第4縫針(右縫針)12d)が針先端の位置を順次高くする階段状になるように針高をずらして配置固定されている。すなわち、第1縫針12aの先端が最も低く、その隣りの第2縫針12bの先端がそれよりも少し高く、その隣りの第3縫針12cの先端がそれよりも更に少し高く、第4縫針12dの先端が最も高くなるような階段状に配置固定されている。
As in the case of the arm portion 4 of the three-needle type top ornament sewing machine, the arm portion 4 of the four-needle type top ornament sewing machine has a built-in sewing machine main shaft (upper shaft) 21 shown in FIG. The needle bar 22 is reciprocated up and down by the sewing machine main shaft 21 via a needle bar crank 23 fixed to the left end of the sewing machine main shaft 21. As shown in FIG. 24, a needle clamp 24 is fixed to the lower end portion of the needle bar 22, and four needles 12 (first sewing needle (left sewing needle) 12a, second sewing needle (medium sewing needle) 12b are attached to the needle clamp 24. , The third sewing needle (middle sewing needle) 12c and the fourth sewing needle (right sewing needle) 12d) are arranged and fixed by shifting the needle height so as to form a stepped shape that gradually increases the position of the needle tip. That is, the tip of the first sewing needle 12a is the lowest, the tip of the adjacent second sewing needle 12b is slightly higher, the tip of the adjacent third sewing needle 12c is slightly higher, and the fourth sewing needle 12d It is arranged and fixed in a staircase shape so that the tip is the highest.
針棒22が配置されるアーム部4には、図2、図16に示す3本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンのアーム部4の場合と同様に、第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bと上飾りスプレッダー17が設けられる。上飾りスプレッダー17を往復揺動する揺動機構25、および上飾りスプレッダー17と共に往復揺動する第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bの揺動機構26は、図3〜図14に示す3本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンの場合の揺動機構25,26と同一であるため、同一部材に同一符号を付してその説明を省略する。
The arm portion 4 on which the needle bar 22 is disposed has the first and second upper thread guide members 16A, 16A, as in the case of the arm portion 4 of the three-needle type upper sewing machine shown in FIGS. 16B and a top spreader 17 are provided. A swing mechanism 25 that reciprocally swings the top ornament spreader 17 and a swing mechanism 26 of the first and second top decoration thread guide members 16A and 16B that reciprocally swings together with the top ornament spreader 17 are shown in FIGS. Since it is the same as the swinging mechanisms 25 and 26 in the case of a three-needle type top stitch sewing machine, the same reference numerals are assigned to the same members and the description thereof is omitted.
次に、4本針タイプの上飾り縫いミシンにより図25に示されるごとき上飾り縫目を形成する過程について図26(a)、(b)〜図31(a)、(b)を参照して説明する。
Next, referring to FIGS. 26 (a), (b) to 31 (a), (b) regarding the process of forming the upper decorative stitch as shown in FIG. 25 by the four-needle type upper decorative sewing machine. I will explain.
予め、第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bは、図29(a)、(b)に示すように、ミシン主軸21の回転角が180度で4本の第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c,第4縫針12dが最も高い位置である上死点の位置まで上昇した時点の状態において、第1上飾り糸18が第1縫針12aの手前を、第2縫針12bの後ろを、第2上飾り糸19が第3縫針12cの手前を、第4縫針12dの後ろをそれぞれ通るように第1,2上飾り糸案内部材16A,16Bのそれぞれの揺動開始角を調整しておく。
As shown in FIGS. 29 (a) and 29 (b), the first and second upper thread guide members 16A and 16B are previously provided with four first sewing needles 12a, When the sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d are raised to the top dead center position, which is the highest position, the first upper decorative thread 18 is positioned in front of the first sewing needle 12a and the second sewing needle 12b. The swing angle of each of the first and second upper decorative thread guide members 16A and 16B is set so that the second upper decorative thread 19 passes through the front of the third sewing needle 12c and the rear of the fourth sewing needle 12d. Adjust it.
第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dにはそれぞれ針糸131,132,133,134が通され、第1上飾り糸18は第1上飾り糸案内部材16Aの第1上飾り糸挿通孔35に対応して通され、第2上飾り糸19は第2上飾り糸案内部材16Bの第2上飾り糸挿通孔44に対応して通される。第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dのそれぞれの針糸131,132,133,134は全て同一もしくは類似の色の針糸、またはそれぞれ異なる色の針糸を使用することができる。第1上飾り糸18及び第2上飾り糸19はそれぞれ異なる色の糸、あるいは共に同一もしくは類似の色の糸を使用し、かつ針糸131,132,133,134とは異なる色にすることができる。
Needle threads 131, 132, 133, and 134 are passed through the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d, respectively, and the first upper decorative thread 18 is the first upper decorative thread guide member. 16A is passed through corresponding to the first upper decorative thread insertion hole 35, and the second upper decorative thread 19 is passed through corresponding to the second upper decorative thread insertion hole 44 of the second upper decorative thread guide member 16B. The needle threads 131, 132, 133, and 134 of the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d are all the same or similar colored needle threads, or different colored needle threads. Can be used. The first upper decorative thread 18 and the second upper decorative thread 19 are made of different colors, or the same or similar colors, and different colors from the needle threads 131, 132, 133, and 134. Can do.
まず、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dにそれぞれ通されている4本の針糸131,132,133,134と第1上飾り糸案内部材16A下の第1上飾り糸18及び第2上飾り糸案内部材16B下の第2上飾り糸19とが縫製生地46の進行方向へ引っ張られ、図26(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸の回転角が0度(360度)で第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが最も低い位置である下死点の位置にまで下降した時点の状態図)に示すように縫製開始時は、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが完全に縫製生地46を貫通し、かつ下ルーパー糸20(図23参照)の糸ガイド構造体(図示せず)が第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dの上下動作に合わせて、下ルーパー糸20と第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dの各針糸131,132,133,134を掛合させて固定する(この技術は周知であるため説明を省略する)。このとき、上飾りスプレッダー17が第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dから最も離れた位置にある。第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dに通された各針糸131,132,133,134と下ルーパー糸20が上記のように掛合固定された後、第1上飾り糸18と第2上飾り糸19も針糸131,132,133,134により縫製生地46の表面上に固定される。
First, four needle threads 131, 132, 133, and 134 passed through the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d, respectively, and the first upper decoration thread guide member 16A 26 (a) and 26 (b) (rotation of the main spindle of the sewing machine), the first upper decorative thread 18 and the second upper decorative thread 19 below the second upper decorative thread guide member 16B are pulled in the traveling direction of the sewing fabric 46. (When the angle is 0 degree (360 degrees) and the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d are lowered to the lowest dead center position). As shown, at the start of sewing, the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d completely penetrate the sewing fabric 46, and the lower looper thread 20 (see FIG. 23). Guide structure (not shown) includes first and second sewing needles 12a and 12a. 2b, the lower looper thread 20, the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d. 132, 133, and 134 are engaged and fixed (this technique is well known and will not be described). At this time, the upper spreader 17 is located at a position farthest from the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d. After the respective needle threads 131, 132, 133, and 134 passed through the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d and the lower looper thread 20 are hooked and fixed as described above, The first upper decorative thread 18 and the second upper decorative thread 19 are also fixed on the surface of the sewing fabric 46 by the needle threads 131, 132, 133, 134.
次いで、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dは図27(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸21の回転角が60度で第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが下死点と上死点の中間の位置まで少し上昇した時点の状態図)、図28(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸21の回転角が120度で第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが下死点と上死点の中間の位置まで更に上昇した時点の状態図)に示すように上方向に動作し、上飾りスプレッダー17が第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dの上方向への動作に合わせて左方向に揺動する。このとき、上飾りスプレッダー17の第1糸引掛け部37が第1上飾り糸18を、第2糸引掛け部38が第2上飾り糸19をそれぞれ引掛けて行く。
Next, the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d are shown in FIGS. 27A and 27B (the rotation angle of the sewing machine spindle 21 is 60 degrees, FIG. 28A, FIG. 28B (rotation of the sewing machine main shaft 21) when the sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d are slightly raised to a position between the bottom dead center and the top dead center. As shown in a state diagram when the angle is 120 degrees and the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d are further raised to a position between the bottom dead center and the top dead center). The upper spreader 17 moves upward, and swings to the left in accordance with the upward movement of the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d. At this time, the first yarn hooking portion 37 of the upper ornament spreader 17 hooks the first upper yarn 18 and the second yarn hooking portion 38 hooks the second upper yarn 19.
次いで、縫製生地46が送られ、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが図29(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸21の回転角が180度で第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが最も高い位置である上死点の位置まで上昇した時点の状態図)に示すように上方向へ動作し、あらかじめ定められた上死点の位置に達すると、上飾りスプレッダー17が動作可能な範囲の左方向の限界点まで揺動し、右方向へ戻る揺動の準備が完了する。このとき注目すべきは、第1上飾り糸案内部材16Aの先端部161が第2縫針12bと第3縫針12cとの間を手前側より後方へ進入移動することで第1上飾り糸18は第1縫針12aの手前を、第2縫針12bの後ろを通り、第2上飾り糸19は第3縫針12cの手前を、第4縫針12dの後ろを通る点である。
Next, the sewing fabric 46 is fed, and the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d are shown in FIGS. 29 (a) and 29 (b) (the rotation angle of the sewing machine main shaft 21 is 180 degrees). The first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d are moved upward as shown in FIG. When the predetermined top dead center position is reached, the upper spreader 17 swings to the left limit point within the operable range, and preparation for swinging back to the right is completed. It should be noted at this time that the first upper decorative yarn 18 is moved forward and backward from the front side between the second sewing needle 12b and the third sewing needle 12c by the distal end portion 161 of the first upper decorative yarn guiding member 16A. The second sewing thread 19 is passed through the front of the first sewing needle 12a and the back of the second sewing needle 12b, and the second upper decorative thread 19 passes the front of the third sewing needle 12c and the back of the fourth sewing needle 12d.
次に、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが図30(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸21の回転角が240度で第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが上死点と下死点の中間の位置まで下降した時点の状態図)に示すように下方向に動作を開始すると、上飾りスプレッダー17も右方向に向かって揺動を開始する。
Next, the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d are shown in FIGS. 30 (a) and 30 (b) (the rotation angle of the sewing machine main shaft 21 is 240 degrees, the first sewing needle 12a, When the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d start to move downward as shown in a state diagram when they are lowered to a middle position between the top dead center and the bottom dead center, the upper spreader 17 Also starts swinging in the right direction.
第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが図31(a)、(b)(ミシン主軸21の回転角が300度で第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが上死点と下死点の中間の位置まで下降した時点の状態図)に示すように下方向に動作すると、上飾りスプレッダー17も右方向に揺動し、第1糸引掛け部37から第1上飾り糸18を、第2糸引掛け部38から第2上飾り糸19をそれぞれ解放させ、第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが下方向に動作するため、第1縫針12aの針糸131および第2縫針12bの針糸132が第1上飾り糸18を押さえて縫製生地46に縫い付け、また第3縫針12cの針糸133および第4縫針12dの針糸134が第2上飾り糸19を押さえて縫製生地46に縫い付けて(図25参照)、1回の縫いの動作が完了する。
The first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d are shown in FIGS. 31 (a) and 31 (b). When the third sewing needle 12c and the fourth sewing needle 12d move downward as shown in the state diagram when the third sewing needle 12c and the fourth sewing needle 12d are lowered to an intermediate position between the top dead center and the bottom dead center, the upper spreader 17 also swings to the right. The first upper thread 18 is released from the first thread hook 37 and the second upper thread 19 is released from the second thread hook 38, and the first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, and the third sewing needle 12c are released. Since the fourth sewing needle 12d moves downward, the needle thread 131 of the first sewing needle 12a and the needle thread 132 of the second sewing needle 12b press the first upper decoration thread 18 and sew them onto the sewing fabric 46. Needle thread 133 of the third sewing needle 12c and the fourth sewing needle 12d Needle thread 134 is sewn to the sewing fabric 46 presses the second upper cover thread 19 (see FIG. 25), operation of one stitch is completed.
第1縫針12a、第2縫針12b、第3縫針12c、及び第4縫針12dが図26(a)、(b)〜図31(a)、(b)に示すように繰り返し上下動作を継続するとき、上飾りスプレッダー17の左右の揺動で第1上飾り糸18及び第2上飾り糸19を引掛け及び解放する動作を組み合わせることにより、図25に示すように、第1上飾り糸18が縫製生地46を貫く左側の針糸131の縫目である第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sとこの隣りで同じく縫製生地46を貫く中間の針糸132の縫目である第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sとにループ状に絡み合わされてジグザグ状に縫い込まれ、第2上飾り糸19は中間の針糸133の縫目である第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sとこの隣りで同じく縫製生地46を貫く右側の針糸134の縫目である第3縫針糸ステッチ134Sとにループ状に絡み合わされてジグザグ状に縫い込まれ、かつ、第1上飾り糸18の各ループ部18Rは第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sの隣り合う針目131p,131p間および第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sの隣り合う針目132p,132p間にそれぞれ跨り、第2上飾り糸19の各ループ部19Rは第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sの隣り合う針目133p,133p間および第4縫針糸ステッチ134Sの隣り合う針目134p,134p間にそれぞれ跨る、という上飾り縫目構造157が形成される。
The first sewing needle 12a, the second sewing needle 12b, the third sewing needle 12c, and the fourth sewing needle 12d continue to move up and down repeatedly as shown in FIGS. 26 (a), (b) to 31 (a), (b). At this time, by combining the actions of hooking and releasing the first upper decorative yarn 18 and the second upper decorative yarn 19 by swinging the upper decorative spreader 17 from side to side, as shown in FIG. The first sewing thread stitch 131S, which is the stitch of the left needle thread 131 that penetrates the sewing cloth 46, and the second sewing thread stitch 132S, which is the seam of the intermediate needle thread 132 that also passes through the sewing cloth 46, next to this. The second upper decoration thread 19 is intertwined in a loop shape and stitched in a zigzag shape, and the right needle thread penetrating the sewing cloth 46 is adjacent to the third sewing thread stitch 133S, which is the stitch of the intermediate needle thread 133. The 134th stitch The loop portion 18R of the first upper thread 18 is interlaced between the adjacent stitches 131p and 131p of the first sewing thread stitch 131S and the second sewing thread 131S. The loop portions 19R of the second upper decorative thread 19 straddle between the adjacent stitches 132p, 132p of the sewing thread stitch 132S, and the loop portions 19R of the second upper thread 19 are between the adjacent stitches 133p, 133p of the third sewing thread stitch 133S and the fourth sewing thread stitch 134S. An upper decorative stitch structure 157 is formed so as to straddle between adjacent stitches 134p, 134p.
このような上飾り縫目構造は、図25に示すように、4本針タイプの上飾り縫いで2本の第1、2上飾り糸18,19を使用し、第1上飾り糸18は縫製生地46を貫く左側の針糸131の縫目である第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sとその隣りの中間の針糸132の縫目である第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sとにループ状に絡み合わされてジグザグ状に縫い込まれ、第2上飾り糸19は中間の針糸133の縫目である第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sと右側の針糸134の縫目である第4縫針糸ステッチ134Sとにループ状に絡み合わされてジグザグ状に縫い込まれたものである。
As shown in FIG. 25, such an upper decorative stitch structure uses two first and second upper decorative threads 18 and 19 in a four-needle type upper decorative stitch. The first sewing thread stitch 131S that is the stitch of the left needle thread 131 that penetrates the sewing fabric 46 and the second sewing thread stitch 132S that is the stitch of the adjacent intermediate needle thread 132 are zigzag entangled in a loop. The second upper decoration thread 19 is looped into a third sewing thread stitch 133S that is the stitch of the intermediate needle thread 133 and a fourth sewing thread stitch 134S that is the stitch of the right needle thread 134. Is intertwined in and zigzag stitched.
このように第1上飾り糸18および第2上飾り糸19を縫い込むことにより、第1上飾り糸18によるジグザグ模様と第2上飾り糸19によるジグザグ模様とを左右に明確に分離独立して出現できるため、第1上飾り糸18の色と第2上飾り糸19の色とがよく目立ち、目立ち感を強める明視性の高い色の縫目模様を得ることができる。
By sewing the first upper decorative thread 18 and the second upper decorative thread 19 in this way, the zigzag pattern formed by the first upper decorative thread 18 and the zigzag pattern formed by the second upper decorative thread 19 are clearly separated on the left and right. Therefore, the color of the first upper decorative thread 18 and the color of the second upper decorative thread 19 are conspicuous, and a stitch pattern with a high visibility that enhances the conspicuousness can be obtained.
また、第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sと第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sとの間では第1上飾り糸18のみの縫目が、また第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sと第4縫針糸ステッチ134Sとの間では第2上飾り糸19のみの縫目がそれぞれ分離独立して存在することにより、第1上飾り糸18の縫目と第2上飾り糸19の縫目とが重なり合うようなことがなくなるため、全体がフラットな縫目となり、肌接触時の肌触りが良くなる。
さらに、第1上飾り糸18の張力と第2上飾り糸19の張力をそれぞれ独自に変更させることができる。このため、例えば、第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sと第2縫針糸ステッチ132S間ではゆったりとした緩み状態に、第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sと第4縫針糸ステッチ134S間では引き締まり状態に縫い調子を異ならせることができる。逆に、第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sと第2縫針糸ステッチ132S間では引き締まり状態に、第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sと第4縫針糸ステッチ134S間ではゆったりとした緩み状態に縫い調子を異ならせることもできる。
Further, only the first upper thread 18 is stitched between the first stitch thread stitch 131S and the second stitch thread stitch 132S, and between the third stitch thread stitch 133S and the fourth stitch thread stitch 134S. 2 Since the stitches of only the upper decorative thread 19 are separated and independent, the first upper decorative thread 18 and the second upper decorative thread 19 do not overlap each other. Becomes a flat seam and feels better when touching the skin.
Further, the tension of the first upper decorative yarn 18 and the tension of the second upper decorative yarn 19 can be independently changed. For this reason, for example, the sewing tone is made different between the first sewing thread stitch 131S and the second sewing thread stitch 132S in a loosely relaxed state and between the third sewing thread stitch 133S and the fourth sewing thread stitch 134S in a tightened state. be able to. On the other hand, the sewing condition may be changed so that the first sewing thread stitch 131S and the second sewing thread stitch 132S are tightened and the third sewing thread stitch 133S and the fourth sewing thread stitch 134S are loosely loose. it can.
そして、第1上飾り糸18の各ループ部18Rは第1縫針糸ステッチ131Sの隣り合う針目131p,131p間および第2縫針糸ステッチ132Sの隣り合う針目132p,132p間にそれぞれ跨っており、第2上飾り糸19の各ループ部19Rは第3縫針糸ステッチ133Sの隣り合う針目133p,133p間および第4縫針糸ステッチ134Sの隣り合う針目134p,134p間にそれぞれ跨っているものとした。これにより、第1上飾り糸18の各ループ部18Rの曲率および第2上飾り糸19の各ループ部19Rの曲率をそれぞれ大きくできて、ジグザグ状模様を透き間の少ない目の詰んだ帯状模様に近い様子に変現することができるため、第1上飾り糸18および第2上飾り糸19がそれぞれもつ色を明確に表すことができ、色の面積効果を上げて装飾性を高めることができる。
Each loop portion 18R of the first upper decoration thread 18 straddles between the adjacent stitches 131p, 131p of the first sewing thread stitch 131S and between the adjacent stitches 132p, 132p of the second sewing thread stitch 132S. 2 Each loop portion 19R of the upper decorative thread 19 spans between the adjacent stitches 133p, 133p of the third sewing thread stitch 133S and between the adjacent stitches 134p, 134p of the fourth sewing thread stitch 134S. As a result, the curvature of each loop portion 18R of the first upper decorative yarn 18 and the curvature of each loop portion 19R of the second upper decorative yarn 19 can be respectively increased, and the zigzag pattern is changed to a band-like pattern with a small amount of clearness. Since it can be transformed into a close state, the colors of the first upper decorative yarn 18 and the second upper decorative yarn 19 can be clearly expressed, and the decorativeness can be enhanced by increasing the color area effect. .