JP2012067395A - Method for manufacturing woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a manufacturing method for a top moire woven or knitted fabric, the method enabling the woven or knitted fabric to have moire appearance enriched in natural feeling, and a desired texture or touch feeling without increasing cost by maintaining a good combined filament condition through a weaving or knitting process.SOLUTION: The method for manufacturing the woven or knitted fabric comprises: combining a core-sheath type fiber yarn A composed of fibers having a fiber-forming constituent in a core part and a fusible constituent with a melting point lower than that of the fiber-forming constituent in a sheath part with a cellulose fiber yarn B to introduce a combined filament part; integrating at least a part of the combined filament part by thermal fusion-bonding action of the fusible constituent to provide a fused combined fiber yarn; manufacturing a preliminary woven or knitted fabric using the fused combined filament yarn; and then carrying out an alkali reduction processing for treating the preliminary woven or knitted fabric using an alkali agent together with an alkali reduction accelerator to remove at least a part of the fusible constituent.

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric.

  Conventionally, it has been known that a woven or knitted fabric has a wrinkle appearance by using a mixed yarn obtained by mixing two types of yarns having different dyeability. Furthermore, it has been studied to impart a desired texture, texture and the like to the woven or knitted fabric as well as the collar appearance. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a mixed yarn composed of a side-by-side or core-sheath type polyester composite fiber and a polyamide fiber. Patent Document 1 describes that by using such a mixed fiber, stretchability can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric together with the appearance of the heel.

  Patent Document 2 discloses a mixed yarn comprising two kinds of polyester yarns having different dyeing properties, one of which is a polyester chic and thin yarn. Patent Document 2 describes that by using such a mixed fiber, it is possible to impart a unique feeling of spanization to the woven or knitted fabric together with the appearance of the heel.

  As is apparent from Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2, by setting the yarns constituting the woven or knitted fabric to be specific, it is possible to impart a wrinkled appearance, a desired texture, a texture, or the like to the woven or knitted fabric.

JP 2008-285786 A JP 2004-285501 A

  However, the above-described characteristics such as the appearance, texture, and texture of the cocoon are expressed for the first time when the yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric (the constituent yarn) is made into a woven or knitted fabric. It is necessary to be subjected to a knitting process. In the weaving and knitting process, there are a plurality of processes such as a yarn winding process and a drawing process. In each process, the constituent thread receives friction as it passes through the guide. Here, when the mixed yarn described in Patent Documents 1 and 2 is used as a constituent yarn, the portion where the fibers are entangled (mixed portion) is unwound, that is, opened by receiving friction. There was a problem that.

  When the mixed fiber state is properly maintained without opening the mixed fiber portion of the constituent yarn, the woven or knitted fabric exhibits a wrinkle appearance with a relatively short pitch. However, when the mixed fiber portion in the constituent yarn is opened, the pitch of the cocoon appearance becomes longer, so-called flow folds, and there is a problem that the commercial value of the woven or knitted fabric is significantly reduced.

  In addition, the texture and texture of woven and knitted fabrics are largely derived from the overall structure, such as the mixed fiber state. Therefore, when the mixed fiber portion is opened and the mixed fiber state is not properly maintained, there is a problem that it becomes impossible to give a desired texture and texture to the woven or knitted fabric as well as the cocoon appearance.

  In order to improve such a problem, it is conceivable to appropriately adjust the tension of the constituent yarn in the weaving and knitting process to suppress the opening of the mixed fiber portion. However, in such a case, equipment for adjusting the tension is required, which is not preferable from the viewpoint of cost.

  In addition, by appropriately adjusting the fiber mixing conditions (for example, increasing the amount of air flow for entanglement of fibers, entanglement of fibers for a long time by air flow), etc. It is conceivable to suppress the opening. However, when the mixed fiber state is strengthened, the effect of the mixed fiber spreads to other parts, and the constituent yarns are in close contact with each other, so that it is difficult to store air in the woven or knitted fabric. As a result, the woven or knitted fabric obtained from such a mixed yarn has poor swell and soft feeling, which is not preferable from the viewpoint of the texture of the woven or knitted fabric.

  Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to eliminate the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, and maintain a good mixed fiber state through the weaving and knitting process, thereby increasing the natural feeling without increasing costs. The aim is to provide a top-tone woven or knitted fabric that combines appearance, desired texture and texture.

  As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have integrated a mixed fiber portion using a fusion component so that a mixed fiber state can be satisfactorily maintained even when a guide or the like is passed. It has been found that a fine yarn can be obtained. Furthermore, by using such a mixed yarn, it is possible to give the woven or knitted fabric a natural cocoon appearance, excellent texture and texture, without increasing the cost, regardless of the number of filaments and the single yarn fineness. The headline, the present invention has been reached.

  More specifically, the core-sheath fiber yarn and the cellulosic fiber yarn are mixed, and the heat fusion of the fusion component that is later arranged in the sheath component of the fiber constituting the core-sheath fiber yarn. A fusion-bonded yarn is obtained by unifying at least a part of the mixed-fiber portion by expressing a bonding action, and if necessary, a preliminary woven or knitted fabric using the fusion-bonded yarn is dried. It has been found that the above-mentioned object can be achieved by heat treatment followed by alkali weight reduction treatment using an alkali agent and an alkali weight loss accelerator in combination, and the present invention has been achieved.

That is, the gist of the present invention is as follows.
(1) A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, wherein the fiber-forming component is disposed in the core portion, and the core-sheath fiber is composed of fibers in which the fusion component having a lower melting point than the fiber-forming component is disposed in the sheath portion. After introducing the blended portion by blending the yarn A and the cellulosic fiber yarn B, at least a part of the blended portion is integrated by the thermal fusion action of the fusion component. A bonded woven yarn is obtained, and then a preliminary woven or knitted fabric is produced using the fused mixed woven yarn, and the preliminary woven or knitted fabric is subjected to an alkali weight loss treatment using an alkali agent and an alkali weight loss accelerator in combination. A method for producing a knitted or knitted fabric, characterized in that it is applied to remove at least a part of the fusion component.
(2) Before the alkali weight loss treatment, the preliminary woven or knitted fabric is subjected to a dry heat treatment under the following condition (I), and the alkali weight loss treatment satisfies the following conditions (II) to (V): (1) The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric.
(I) The dry heat treatment temperature is 160 to 210 ° C., and the dry heat treatment time is 10 to 120 seconds.
(II) Alkali concentration in alkali reduction treatment is 20 to 150% o. w. e.
(III) The concentration of the alkali weight loss promoter in the alkali weight loss treatment is 1 to 10 g / L.
(IV) The bath ratio in the alkali weight loss treatment is 1: 5 to 1: 100.
(V) The treatment temperature of the alkali weight loss treatment is 70 to 120 ° C., and the treatment time of the alkali weight loss treatment is 15 to 100 minutes.

  In the present invention, a fusion blended yarn in which at least a part of the blended portion is integrated is used by utilizing the heat fusion action of the fusion component arranged in the sheath component of the fiber constituting the core-sheath fiber yarn. . By this integration, the mixed fiber portion can be protected from the friction accompanying the passage of the guide in the mixed fiber yarn, and the fiber opening of the mixed fiber portion can be significantly suppressed without increasing the cost. And, when the woven or knitted fabric composed of such fused blended yarn is subjected to a dry heat treatment and an alkali weight loss treatment using a combination of an alkali agent and an ant weight loss accelerator, the woven or knitted material is dyed. Regardless of the number of filaments and the single yarn fineness, it is possible to give a wrinkle appearance rich in a natural feeling and a desired texture. That is, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a very high commercial value.

  Furthermore, according to the production method of the present invention, even if a cellulose fiber yarn having a remarkable decrease in strength with respect to alkali is used by subjecting it to an alkali weight loss treatment using an alkali agent and an ant pot weight loss accelerator in combination, There is an effect that the fusion component connecting the fibers can be efficiently removed while suppressing the strength reduction. Therefore, in the final woven or knitted fabric, improvement in texture, texture, etc. can be expected in addition to quality and physical properties.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
In the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, first, a core-sheath fiber yarn comprising fibers in which a fiber-forming component is disposed in the core and a fusion component having a lower melting point than the fiber-forming component is disposed in the sheath. A fused blended yarn is prepared using A and the cellulosic fiber yarn B.

First, the core-sheath fiber yarn A (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as “yarn A”) will be described below.
The fiber constituting the yarn A has a core-sheath structure in cross section, and a fusion component melted by heat is arranged in the sheath part. A component (fiber forming component) having a higher melting point than the fusion component of the sheath portion is disposed in the core portion. And the core part which remain | survives after a sheath part fuse | melts and the below-mentioned cellulosic fiber yarn B are integrated in a fiber mixing part by the heat sealing | fusion effect of a melt | fusion component. In addition, from the viewpoint of softening the texture of the resulting woven or knitted fabric, it is preferable that the fusion component solidified after being melted is removed after the fused mixed yarn is made into a woven or knitted fabric.

  Although it does not specifically limit as a component distribute | arranged to the sheath part of the fiber which comprises the thread | yarn A, From a viewpoint which can remove a fusion | melting component efficiently after setting it as a woven / knitted fabric, a polyester-type resin is preferable. Specifically, it is preferably a polyester-based resin that contains a terephthalic acid component and an ethylene glycol component and is copolymerized with at least one of a 1,4-butanediol component, an aliphatic lactone component, and an adipic acid component. .

  Among them, from the viewpoint of high crystallization speed and efficient cooling not only at the time of spinning but also as a fused mixed yarn, terephthalic acid component, aliphatic lactone component, ethylene glycol component and 1,4- A polyester resin comprising a butanediol component is preferred. In addition, as an aliphatic lactone component, a C4-C11 lactone is preferable from a versatility viewpoint, and (epsilon) -caprolactone is especially preferable.

  When the polyester-based resin is arranged in the sheath, it is possible that the resin can have a melting point of 130 to 200 ° C. from the viewpoint that the process can be efficiently performed when producing the fused mixed yarn. The transition point is preferably 20 to 80 ° C, and the crystallization start temperature is preferably 90 to 130 ° C.

  On the other hand, the component disposed in the core of the fiber constituting the yarn A is not particularly limited, but is preferably a polyester resin from the viewpoint of dimensional stability and strength of a woven or knitted fabric obtained later. Specifically, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate and the like are preferably used. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  Moreover, in the said fiber, as a component distribute | arranged to a core part, it is preferable to use the component whose melting | fusing point is 30 degreeC or more higher than the component distribute | arranged to a sheath part from a viewpoint of melting only a sheath part efficiently. In particular, from the viewpoint of (dimensional stability of the woven or knitted fabric), it is more preferable to use a component having a melting point in the range of 220 to 280 ° C. as the core component.

  When a polyester resin is used as the core component and / or the sheath component, other components may be copolymerized with the polyester resin as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. As copolymerization components, isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, phthalic anhydride, naphthalene carboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, pyromellitic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid Acid, e-caprolactone, phosphoric acid, glycerin, diethylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, trimethylpropane, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, neopentyl glycol, pentaerythritol, 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxy ) Phenyl} propane and the like.

  In the fiber constituting the yarn A, the mass ratio of the components constituting the core part and the sheath part is preferably (core part) :( sheath part) = 40: 60 to 80:20, and 50:50. More preferably, it is ˜70: 30. When the ratio of the core component is less than 40% by mass, the single yarn fineness of the fiber derived from the core component becomes thin, and there is a case where the elasticity and stiffness are reduced when a woven or knitted fabric is obtained. In addition, after the alkali weight reduction treatment described later, the content ratio of the cellulosic fiber yarns in the mixed fiber greatly increases, and as a result, a clear wrinkle appearance hardly appears in the woven or knitted fabric. On the other hand, when the ratio of the core component exceeds 80% by mass, the fusion component is reduced. Therefore, the yarn composed of fibers derived from the core component and the yarn B are integrated through the fusion component. It can be difficult.

  The form of the yarn A may be either a multifilament or a monofilament. Further, the cross section of the single fiber yarn of the yarn A may be any shape such as a circle, a triangle, and a cross. In addition, the single yarn fineness of the yarn A is preferably 0.01 to 100 dtex, and more preferably 1.1 to 10 dtex, from the viewpoint of giving the woven or knitted fabric a natural-looking wrinkle appearance.

  From the viewpoint of the wrinkle appearance, when the single yarn fineness of the yarn A is relatively small (for example, less than 10 dtex), it is preferable to select a multifilament, and when the single yarn fineness of the yarn A is relatively large For example (in the case of 20 dtex or more), it is preferable to select a monofilament.

The cellulosic fiber yarn B (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as “yarn B”) will be described.
The fiber yarn used with the yarn A needs to be a cellulosic from a viewpoint of expressing a suitable drape feeling when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric. The cellulosic fiber yarn B is not particularly limited as long as it is conventionally known, and for example, rayon, lyocell, cotton and the like are preferably used.

  From the above, as a preferable combination of the yarn A and the yarn B in the present invention, the yarn A is polyester-based and the yarn B is cellulose-based.

The fusion blended yarn composed of the yarn A and the yarn B will be described.
In the present invention, the blended yarn refers to a so-called interlaced blended yarn. In the interlaced mixed yarn, mixed portions (hereinafter sometimes referred to as “mixed portion”) and non-mixed portions are alternately mixed along the length direction thereof. .

  In the present invention, by utilizing the characteristics of interlaced mixed yarn, it is possible to impart a natural cocoon appearance to the woven or knitted fabric. That is, in the blended yarn, the unmixed portion exists in a form close to the fiber bundle. Therefore, by dyeing after forming a woven or knitted fabric, the part can be visually recognized in a streak shape.

  In the mixed yarn, the number of interlaced mixed portions is preferably 40 to 100 pieces / m, and preferably 60 to 80 pieces / m, from the viewpoint of expressing a cocoon appearance rich in natural feeling when woven or knitted. It is more preferable. When the number of the mixed fiber portions is less than 40 / m, the wrinkle appearance may become a flowing wrinkle. On the other hand, when the number of the mixed fiber portions exceeds 100 / m, the mesh becomes excessively fine. There is. In either case, the commercial value of the woven or knitted fabric is lowered, which is not preferable.

  In order to set the number of the fiber mixing portions within the above range, for example, a method of setting the air pressure of the fiber mixing nozzle within a predetermined range according to the yarn speed at the time of fiber mixing can be used. A commercially available fiber mixing nozzle is used for fiber mixing, and the fiber mixing conditions can be adjusted according to the type of nozzle. As an example of such conditions, when the yarn speed is less than 300 m / min, the air pressure is preferably 50 to 300 kPa, and when the yarn speed is 300 m / min or more, the air pressure is 100 to 300 m / min. It is preferably 500 kPa.

  The above blended yarn can exhibit an excellent wrinkle effect regardless of the number of filaments and the single yarn fineness by expressing the dyeability difference between the yarn A and the yarn B. Thus, the number of filaments and the single yarn fineness may be appropriately adjusted.

An example of a method for obtaining a mixed yarn by using the yarn A and the yarn B will be described.
First, the yarn A is produced. The yarn A can be produced using a known compound spinning apparatus. For example, the material constituting the core part and the sheath part such as polyester as described above is put into a composite spinning apparatus, and composite spinning is performed at a take-up speed of 1000 to 4500 m / min. Article A can be obtained.

  Next, the yarn A and the yarn B are simultaneously mixed using a known device, and an interlace mixed portion of 40 to 100 pieces / m, preferably 60 to 80 pieces / m is introduced. At this time, the fiber material of both yarns, the air pressure at the time of fiber mixing, etc. are as described above.

  The mixing ratio (mass ratio) of the yarn A and the yarn B is not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of an excellent wrinkle appearance, (yarn A) :( yarn B) = 5: 95-50 : 50 is preferable, and 10:90 to 30:70 is more preferable.

  And the heat-bonding effect | action of the melt | fusion component distribute | arranged to the sheath part of the fiber which comprises the thread | yarn A is expressed by heat-processing the obtained mixed fiber. Thereby, the sheath part of the fiber constituting the yarn A is melted, and the remaining core part and the yarn B are integrated via the fusion component in at least a part of the mixed fiber part.

  Generally, a commercially available yarn processing heater is used for heat treatment of the blended yarn, and the heat treatment condition is preferably a temperature of 180 to 220 ° C.

  By subjecting the woven or knitted fabric obtained from the above-mentioned fused mixed yarn to post-processing described later, it is possible to develop a wrinkle appearance rich in natural feeling. In order to develop a wrinkle appearance, it is necessary that the mixed fiber state is maintained well even if the mixed fiber passes through a guide or the like in the weaving and knitting process. That is, it is necessary that the opening of the mixed fiber portion in the mixed yarn is suppressed. If the mixed fiber portion is opened, the heel appearance of the woven or knitted fabric becomes a long-pitch flow ridge. Therefore, in the present invention, by firmly integrating at least a part of the blended portion in the blended yarn, the blended portion can be protected from friction associated with the guide of the blended yarn, and the blended portion. Can be greatly suppressed.

  In the present invention, it is necessary to integrate at least a part of the mixed fiber part in the mixed fiber, but it is not always necessary to integrate the weakly mixed part.

  According to the known technology, in order to suppress the opening of the mixed fiber portion as described above, the tension of the mixed fiber is adjusted, or the amount of air flow for entanglement of the fibers is increased. A method of reinforcing the mixed fiber portion by means such as entanglement of time fibers is also conceivable. However, when the mixed fiber portion is integrated only by such a method, there arises a problem that the cost increases or the texture of the resulting woven or knitted fabric decreases. Therefore, in the present invention, it is necessary to integrate the mixed fiber portion using a fusion component.

  In the fusion blended yarn, the fusion strength of the blended portion integrated by the fusion component will be described below. In the present invention, the size of the fusion strength of the mixed fiber portion is determined by “how much the mixed fiber is unraveled when the mixed fiber is stretched at a constant speed”. When the interlaced mixed yarn is drawn quickly, the mixed fiber can be released by the fusion strength of the mixed fiber portion. In the present invention, this point is used to determine the fusion strength of the mixed fiber portion.

  Specifically, when a sample (length: 20 cm) is stretched at a constant speed using an autograph (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation) at a pulling rate of 20 cm / min and stretched 5% with respect to the original length of the sample. Observe the state of opening. The preferred opening state in the yarn after stretching is (i) there is no part that is continuously opened beyond 5 cm, and (ii) the number of parts that are continuously opened from 3 to 5 cm. It is in a state of 5 or less per 1 m. When the stretched yarn does not satisfy either of the two requirements (i) and (ii), when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric, the wrinkle appearance tends to flow.

  A preliminary woven or knitted fabric is obtained from the above-mentioned fused mixed yarn using a known method. In the present invention, the obtained preliminary woven or knitted fabric is subjected to alkali weight reduction, but is preferably subjected to a dry heat treatment step under specific conditions prior to weight loss. The reason for this is as follows. That is, since the preliminary woven or knitted fabric obtained as described above is subjected to many steps represented by the alkali reduction treatment step, the dyeing step, etc., it is preferable to give dimensional stability in advance. There is a case. That is, by giving dimensional stability, it becomes easy to control the amount of the woven or knitted fabric in the middle of processing, and various properties of the woven or knitted fabric obtained as the final product are also improved. In addition, by subjecting the preliminary woven or knitted fabric to a heat treatment, the fusion component is re-fused in the mixed yarn, and as a result, the fusion component is uniformly distributed in the woven or knitted fabric. Thereby, it becomes possible to proceed with subsequent alkali weight loss without any defects, which is advantageous in improving the quality and physical properties of the woven or knitted fabric.

  The dry heat treatment conditions can be appropriately selected depending on the structure and thickness of the woven or knitted fabric, but the treatment temperature is preferably 160 ° C to 210 ° C, more preferably 170 ° C to 190 ° C. If the treatment temperature is less than 160 ° C., the dimensional stability may not be stable depending on the structure and thickness of the woven or knitted fabric. On the other hand, when the treatment temperature exceeds 210 ° C., the strength of the woven or knitted fabric obtained as the final product due to yellowing of the surface of the woven or knitted fabric or damage of the constituent yarns due to dry heat. May decrease.

  The treatment time in the dry heat treatment is preferably 10 to 210 seconds, and more preferably 30 to 120 seconds. When the treatment time is less than 10 seconds, the treatment time is short, so that a sufficient dry heat effect (heat setting effect) may not be obtained, so the woven or knitted fabric obtained as the final product is inferior in dimensional stability. There is. On the other hand, if the treatment time exceeds 210 seconds, the treatment time is long, so that the surface of the fabric may be yellowed or the fabric may become hard, and the quality of the woven or knitted fabric may deteriorate.

  In the present invention, the preliminary woven or knitted fabric is subjected to an alkali weight reduction process using an alkali agent and an alkali weight loss accelerator in combination, whereby a woven or knitted fabric as a final product can be obtained. By performing the alkali weight loss treatment, it is possible to remove the fusion component (the component that melts from the fibers constituting the yarn A and hardens later) contained in the woven or knitted fabric, and the texture and texture are preferable. Can be. In addition, when polyester fibers are used in the knitted or knitted fabric, the surface of the polyester fibers can be reduced by thinning with an alkali, and the single yarn fineness can be reduced, creating a soft texture. There is an advantage of doing.

  In the present invention, it is not always necessary to remove all the fusion components that connect the fibers, and a part of the fusion component remains as necessary as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. May be. If the fusion component remains too much in the woven or knitted fabric, the texture of the woven or knitted fabric will be hard, but if the fusion component is left in an appropriate amount, it may produce a rather preferable texture such as a sharp feeling or a cool feeling. is there. The removal amount of the fusion component is preferably 50% by mass or more, and more preferably 80% by mass or more based on the total fusion component. The removal amount of the fusion component is determined by observing a cross section of the woven or knitted fabric with a microscope.

  The reason why an alkali weight loss accelerator is used in combination with the alkali agent will be described below. When using fibers that tend to cause a decrease in strength against alkali, such as rayon fibers and cupra fibers, the weight loss of alkali can be reduced under the condition that the above fusion components in the woven or knitted fabric can be efficiently removed using only an alkali agent. When it does, in the obtained knitted or knitted fabric, a hole may be formed or a problem may occur in the quality or physical properties due to yarn breakage of constituent yarns.

  Therefore, in the present invention, an alkali weight loss accelerator is used in combination during the alkali weight loss treatment. By doing so, the weight reduction rate can be increased, and as a result, the alkali concentration necessary for obtaining the target weight reduction effect can be reduced, and the alkali weight reduction treatment time can be greatly shortened. Therefore, the strength reduction of the cellulose fiber yarn B weak against alkali can be suppressed, and a woven or knitted fabric with stable quality and physical properties can be obtained.

  Although it does not specifically limit as an alkali agent used for an alkali weight loss process, Sodium hydroxide is preferable from a viewpoint of handleability or cheapness. The alkali weight loss accelerator is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include those mainly composed of quaternary ammonium salts and those mainly composed of nitrogen compounds.

  In the present invention, the alkali concentration in the alkali weight loss treatment step is 20% to 150% o. w. e, more preferably 30% to 150% o.e. w. e. Alkaline concentration 20% o. w. If it is less than e, removal of the fusion component may not be sufficient. On the other hand, the alkali concentration is 150% o. w. If e is exceeded, the weight loss effect is large, so that the weight loss extends to components that do not need to be reduced more than the removal of the intended fusion component, and the cellulosic fiber yarn B is damaged by the alkali weight loss treatment. Receiving may cause reduced strength.

  The concentration of the alkali weight loss accelerator is preferably 1 to 10 g / L, and more preferably 3 to 7 g / L. If it is less than 1 g / L, the fusion component may not be sufficiently removed by the weight reduction treatment time (15 to 100 minutes) recommended in the present invention. In this case, if the weight loss time is lengthened, the fusion component can be sufficiently removed. However, as a result of the woven or knitted fabric being exposed to the alkali agent for a long time, the cellulose fiber yarn B may be strongly reduced. On the other hand, if it exceeds 10 g / L, the weight reduction may proceed more than necessary in the weight reduction processing time recommended in the present invention. In this case, if the weight loss time is shortened, the progress of the weight loss can be suppressed, but there are cases where the alkali weight loss treatment cannot be performed uniformly and stably in a short time.

  The bath ratio of the alkali weight loss treatment is, by mass ratio, (woven / knitted fabric) :( alkali weight loss treated water) = 1: 5 to 1: 100, more preferably 1: 5 to 1:30. . When the bath ratio is less than 1: 5, the amount of alkali weight reduction treatment water is small, and thus weight loss spots may occur. On the other hand, when the bath ratio exceeds 1: 100, the effect of weight reduction is sufficient, but the cost may increase.

  The alkali weight loss treatment temperature is preferably 70 to 120 ° C, and more preferably 90 to 105 ° C. If the alkali weight loss treatment temperature is less than 70 ° C., the weight loss rate becomes slow, and the fusion component may not be sufficiently removed by the weight loss treatment time recommended in the present invention. In this case, if the weight loss time is lengthened, the fusion component can be sufficiently removed, but as a result of the woven or knitted fabric being exposed to the alkaline agent for a long time, the strength of the cellulosic fiber yarn B may be reduced. On the other hand, when the temperature exceeds 120 ° C., the rate of weight loss increases, but the treatment time is too short, and the amount of weight loss may become uneven.

  The alkali weight loss treatment time is preferably 15 to 100 minutes, and more preferably 30 to 60 minutes. If the alkali weight reduction treatment time is less than 15 minutes, the treatment time may be too short and the weight loss may become uneven. On the other hand, when it exceeds 100 minutes, damage to the cellulosic fiber yarn B is increased by the alkali agent, and strength reduction may occur.

  According to the production method of the present invention, the preliminary woven or knitted fabric is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment under specific conditions, so that the fibers are connected to each other while suppressing the strength reduction of the cellulosic fiber yarn B that is significantly reduced in strength against alkali. The fusion component can be removed efficiently. Therefore, in the final woven or knitted fabric, improvement in texture, texture, etc. can be expected in addition to quality and physical properties.

As an index of the strength reduction of the cellulosic fiber yarn B, the strength retention calculated by the following formula may be adopted. In the present invention, the strength retention of the cellulosic fiber yarn B is preferably 30% or more, and more preferably 50% or more.
(Strength retention) (%) = (Strength of yarn after alkali weight loss treatment / Strength of yarn before alkali weight loss treatment) × 100
The yarn strength before the alkali weight reduction treatment and the yarn strength after the alkali weight reduction treatment are values measured according to the tensile strength defined in JIS L 1013.

  By dyeing the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention that has been subjected to alkali weight loss treatment, the woven or knitted fabric can have a wrinkle appearance. The dye used for the dyeing is not particularly limited, and a known and commonly used dye can be arbitrarily selected. A dye is used individually by 1 type or in combination of 2 or more types.

  In dyeing, each yarn constituting the blended yarn is dyed with a different type of dye in order to obtain a clear wrinkle appearance; only one yarn is dyed and the other is not dyed. It is also possible to adopt a means of dyeing as follows. For example, when the blended yarn is composed of a combination of a core-sheath fiber yarn A mainly composed of a polyester-based resin and a cellulosic fiber yarn B, it is dispersed as a dye for dyeing the yarn A. By using a dye, a reactive dye as a dye for dyeing the yarn B, and making the colors of the two dyes different, a clear wrinkle appearance can be expressed in the woven or knitted fabric. After dyeing, the knitted or knitted fabric may be finally set as necessary.

  EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

Example 1
Crystalline polyester resin (manufactured by Nippon Ester Co., Ltd.) (Intrinsic viscosity: 0.78, melting point: 181 ° C., glass transition point: 48 ° C.) (copolymerization of 1,4 butanediol with 50 mol%) and PET Manufactured) (Intrinsic viscosity: 0.61, melting point: 256 ° C.). In addition, melting | fusing point is the value measured with the temperature increase rate of 20 degree-C / min using the differential scanning calorimeter (The Perkin-Elmer company make, brand name "DSC-2 type").

  The above crystalline polyester resin and PET are put into a compound spinning apparatus at a mass ratio of (crystalline polyester resin) :( PET) = 1: 1, and simultaneously spun and stretched at a temperature of 270 ° C. As a result, a core-sheath type fiber yarn A made of a fiber having a crystalline polyester resin in the sheath and PET in the core was obtained. The fineness of the obtained yarn was 28 dtex / 12f.

  Next, a rayon filament yarn (manufactured by Cybo Co., Ltd.) (fineness: 84 dtex / 30f) as the yarn B and the above-described yarn A are mixed with an interlace blending device (trade name “STP Winder” manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho). The interlace fiber mixture was used at a yarn speed of 100 m / min and an air pressure of 150 kPa. Then, the sheath part of the fiber which comprises the thread | yarn A was fuse | melted by heat-processing using a heat heater at the temperature of 200 degreeC, and the fused mixed yarn was obtained. In this blended yarn, the polyester resin disposed in the sheath portion of the fiber constituting the yarn A became a fusion component, and the blended portion was integrated. Moreover, the interlaced mixed part of the obtained fused mixed yarn was 60 pieces / m. Furthermore, in this fusion-bonded yarn, the number of continuously opened 3 to 5 cm when stretched 5% at a tensile rate of 20 cm / min is 2 / m, and 5 cm. The site that was continuously opened beyond this point was not observed. That is, the fusion strength of the mixed fiber portion was good.

  Next, using a circular knitting machine (trade name “LPJ-H33”, manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd.), the needle density is set to 28 gauge, the fused mixed yarn obtained above is knitted, and the knitted fabric has a smooth structure. Got. The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to a dry heat treatment (temperature: 190 ° C., time: 60 seconds) with a pin tenter, and then 40% o.d. w. e. Alkaline agent (sodium hydroxide), 2 g / L alkali weight loss accelerator (nitrogen compound, trade name “DYK-1125” manufactured by One Company), bath ratio 1:50, temperature 98 ° C. for 60 minutes Alkali weight loss treatment was performed. Subsequently, the knitted fabric obtained was dyed using 2% omf reactive dye (trade name “Basilen F Black FB” manufactured by Mitsui BASF), 30 g / L anhydrous sodium sulfate, 10 g / L soda ash. .

  In the obtained knitted fabric, only the yarn B was dyed and a clear wrinkle appearance was expressed. Further, the polyester resin as the fusion component was removed by the alkali weight reduction treatment, and a part of the PET surface was reduced. Therefore, it was very rich in soft feeling. In addition, the strength retention of the rayon yarn by the alkali weight loss treatment was 50%, and the strength of the rayon yarn was maintained.

(Example 2)
The same procedure as in Example 1 was performed except that the air pressure during interlace fiber mixing was changed from 150 kPa to 30 kPa. In the mixed yarn, 35 fibers / m were formed. When a knitted fabric was produced using this mixed yarn, it was able to withstand practical use, but the wrinkled appearance of the knitted fabric was slightly creased.

(Example 3)
Example 1 was repeated except that the yarn speed at the time of fiber mixing was changed from 100 m / min to 30 m / min. In the mixed yarn, the mixed fiber portion was formed at 105 pieces / m. When a knitted fabric was produced using the mixed yarn, it was able to withstand practical use, but the mesh became slightly finer.

(Examples 4 and 5)
The concentration of alkaline agent is 40% o. w. 15% o. w. Example 4 was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that e was used. Further, the concentration of the alkaline agent is 40% o. w. 160% o. w. Example 5 was carried out in the same manner as Example 1 except that e was used. Although both knitted fabrics had a good wrinkle appearance, in Example 4, since the fusion component could not be sufficiently removed (amount of fusion component removed: 36%), the obtained knitted fabric had a slightly hard texture. Met. On the other hand, in Example 5, as a result of excessive weight reduction, the strength retention of the rayon yarn was 27%, and a decrease in strength was observed.

(Examples 6 and 7)
Example 6 was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the concentration of the alkali weight loss accelerator was changed to 0.8 g / L instead of 2 g / L. Further, Example 7 was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the concentration of the alkali weight loss accelerator was changed to 10 g / L instead of 2 g / L. Although both knitted fabrics had a good wrinkle appearance, in Example 6, the fusion component could not be removed sufficiently (amount of fusion component removed: 43%), and the resulting knitted fabric had a slightly hard texture. Met. On the other hand, in Example 7, not only the fusion component but also the fibers constituting the knitted fabric were reduced in weight. As a result, not only the rayon yarn but also the woven or knitted fabric was slightly reduced in strength.

(Comparative Example 1)
During the alkali weight reduction treatment, the same procedure as in Example 1 was performed except that only the alkali agent was used without using the alkali weight loss accelerator and the weight loss time was 120 minutes. The weight loss rate of the sheath portion of the yarn A was 60%, but the strength retention rate of the rayon was 21%, which was not practical.

(Comparative Example 2)
The same procedure as in Example 1 was performed except that the temperature at the time of using the heat heater for producing the yarn A was changed from 200 ° C to 170 ° C. The polyester resin disposed in the sheath portion of the yarn A was not sufficiently melted, and the blended portion could not be integrated in the blended yarn. When this blended yarn was subjected to a knitting process, opening was observed everywhere in the blended yarn due to friction received when passing through the guide. In addition, the wrinkle appearance of the knitted fabric obtained through the dyeing process also has a long pitch wrinkle and was not practically usable.

(Comparative Example 3)
A yarn is produced by the same method as the yarn A in Example 1 except that a normal spinning means is employed using only a crystalline polyester-based resin. Thereafter, the yarn is produced in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. It was. Since the obtained knitted fabric was composed only of rayon yarn from which the crystalline polyester resin was removed, no wrinkle appearance was observed.

Claims (2)

  A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, wherein the fiber-forming component is arranged in the core portion, and the core-sheath type fiber yarn A is composed of fibers in which the fusion component having a lower melting point than the fiber-forming component is arranged in the sheath portion. And the cellulose-based fiber yarn B are mixed to introduce a mixed fiber portion, and then, at least a part of the mixed fiber portion is integrated by the heat-bonding action of the fusion component, so as to be fused and mixed. After obtaining the yarn, a preliminary woven or knitted fabric is produced using the fused mixed yarn, and the preliminary woven or knitted fabric is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment using an alkali agent and an alkali weight loss accelerator in combination. A method for producing a knitted or knitted fabric, comprising removing at least a part of a wearing component. Prior to the alkali weight reduction treatment, the preliminary woven or knitted fabric is subjected to a dry heat treatment under the following condition (I), and the alkali weight reduction treatment satisfies the following conditions (II) to (V): Item 2. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to Item 1.
(I) The dry heat treatment temperature is 160 to 210 ° C., and the dry heat treatment time is 10 to 120 seconds.
(II) Alkali concentration in alkali reduction treatment is 20 to 150% o. w. e.
(III) The concentration of the alkali weight loss promoter in the alkali weight loss treatment is 1 to 10 g / L.
(IV) The bath ratio in the alkali weight loss treatment is 1: 5 to 1: 100.
(V) The treatment temperature of the alkali weight loss treatment is 70 to 120 ° C., and the treatment time of the alkali weight loss treatment is 15 to 100 minutes.