JP2011524875A - Composition - Google Patents

Abstract

  A hair conditioning composition comprising a hydrophobically modified anionic polymer and a fatty acid.

Description

  The present invention relates to an improved conditioning composition.

  Despite the prior art, there remains a need for improved conditioning compositions.

  Accordingly, hair conditioning compositions comprising hydrophobically modified anionic polymers are provided.

  This hydrophobically modified anionic polymer imparts better wash-off properties. This is especially true when the composition is a conditioning mask composition.

  Preferably, the polymer is an acrylate polymer or a methacrylate polymer.

  Preferably, the hydrophobic modification includes alkylation.

  Preferably, the alkyl group contains 6 to 30 carbons, more preferably 16 to 28 carbons, and most preferably 18 to 24 carbons.

  A preferred polymer is sold by the company Rohm & Haas under the trade name Acculyn. Among these, Aculyn28 (registered trademark) is most preferable.

  The polymer is present from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention also contains fatty acids. Examples are branched chain fatty acids such as 18-methyleicosanoic acid and this series of other homologs, linear fatty acids such as stearic acid, myristic acid and palmitic acid, and oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid Unsaturated fatty acids such as A preferred fatty acid is stearic acid. The fatty acids may be added singly, as a mixture, or in the form of a blend derived, for example, from an extract of lanolin.

  The fatty acid is present from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight.

  Preferably, the composition according to any preceding claim comprises a structuring agent. The structuring agent improves the feel of the product in the user's hand.

  The structuring agent used to “structure” the composition according to the invention can be a natural or synthetic crystalline wax. Mineral, animal or plant (plant) waxes are all referred to as natural waxes. Synthetic waxes are referred to as synthetically polymerized waxes from raw materials or chemically modified natural waxes.

  Among the natural crystalline waxes that can be used are petroleum-based waxes such as paraffin and microcrystalline waxes. Chemically, both microcrystalline (MC) and paraffin wax are very similar and consist of long saturated hydrocarbon chains. Both types of waxes are separated from crude oil, along with MC waxes with higher molecular weights. Paraffin wax is extracted from the high boiling fraction of crude oil during the refining process by cooling and filtration processes. After the sweating process to remove residual oil in the wax, the resulting paraffin wax usually has less than 0.5% oil.

  Many different grades are available, most often varying in melting point. In general, paraffin wax is colorless or white and transparent. Paraffin waxes mostly consist mainly of straight-chain molecules with a small amount of branched molecules with branches near the chain ends. As a result of the long straight chain, paraffin wax has large, well-shaped crystals. The molecular weight of paraffin wax is generally in the range of 360 to 420 (26 to 30 carbon atoms), but longer chain types (up to 600 molecular weight) are also available. The typical melting point is 126-134 ° F. (52-57 ° C.), and the high molecular weight type has a melting point around 170 ° F. (77 ° C.). Paraffin wax is brittle and the addition of oil weakens the structure (decreases tensile strength).

  Microcrystalline wax (MC) differs from paraffin wax in physical properties, chain structure and length, and manufacturing method. They are tougher and softer than paraffin wax and have high tensile strength and melting point. MC wax has a high affinity for oil and, when added, improves the plasticity of the wax. MC wax cannot be distilled without decomposition and is therefore separated from the distillation residue fraction of crude oil by a dewaxing process involving recrystallization and centrifugation in an organic solvent. The oil content varies from grade to grade, but is usually about 2% to 12%. MC waxes most often contain branched molecules that are randomly arranged along the chain, along with some linear chains. A typical melting point is 145 to 195 ° F. (63-91 ° C.). A high penetration indicates the flexibility of the wax, but the flexibility is not a function of the melting point.

  There are other mineral waxes such as montan wax, lignite wax, osocerite, ceresin, utah wax and peat wax.

  Animal waxes can be obtained from things such as bees, insects or whales. These waxes include, but are not limited to, beeswax, lobster wax, shellac wax, whale wax and wool wax. For example, beeswax, classified as animal wax, is secreted by bees to create beehives. Wax is collected by melting the honeycomb and filtering off the wax. Beeswax has a melting point of about 61-65 ° C. and is compatible with almost all waxes and oils.

  Plant waxes can be derived from beans, leaves and berries. Plants or plant waxes can include white bayberry, candelilla, carnauba, cotton, esparto, fir, Japan, ouricuri, palm, rice oil, sugarcane, ukuhuba and cocoa butter.

  Among the synthetic crystalline waxes that can be used are crystalline polymers such as polyethylene, polymethylene, chemically modified waxes, polymerized alpha olefins and synthetic animal waxes. For example, siliconyl beeswax, a chemically modified beeswax, may be used.

  Examples of various waxes that can be used in accordance with the subject invention and their properties are set forth in Table 1 below.

  Another structured material of the present invention (eg, used to structure other beneficial agents) is microcrystalline wax petrolatum (also known as petrolatum or mineral jelly), which is microcrystalline. Wax petrolatum usually contains a natural mixture of about 90% by weight of microcrystalline wax and a small amount of other impurities.

  The composition according to the present invention may comprise any of a number of ingredients common to conditioning compositions.

  The composition according to the invention may also be formulated as a conditioner for hair treatment (usually after shampooing) and subsequent rinsing.

  Such conditioners are cosmetically acceptable and contain one or more conditioning surfactants suitable for topical application to the hair.

  Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants and are used alone or in a mixture. Examples include quaternary ammonium hydroxide or a salt thereof such as chloride.

  Suitable cationic surfactants for use in the hair conditioner of the present invention are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyl chloride. Trimethylammonium, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, trimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride and corresponding Including those hydroxides. Further suitable cationic surfactants include materials with the CTFA names Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Any mixture of the materials can also be compatible. A particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in the hair conditioner of the present invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example commercially available as DEHYQUART from Henkel.

  In the conditioner of the present invention, the concentration of the cationic surfactant is preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight of the composition, more preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, and most preferably 0.00. 1 to 2% by weight.

  The conditioner of the present invention advantageously incorporates an aliphatic alcohol feedstock. The combined use of the fatty alcohol raw material and the cationic surfactant in the conditioning composition is believed to be particularly advantageous because the cationic surfactant results in the formation of a lamellar phase dispersed therein.

  Exemplary fatty alcohols contain 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that it contributes to the overall conditioning properties of the composition of the present invention.

  The concentration of the fatty alcohol substance in the conditioner of the present invention is conveniently from 0.01 to 10% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 8, optimally from 1: 1 to 1: 4.

  Silicone is a particularly preferred component in the hair treatment composition of the present invention. In particular, the conditioner of the present invention also preferably includes silicone emulsified particles to improve conditioning performance. The silicone is insoluble in the aqueous matrix of the composition and is therefore present in an emulsified form with the silicone present as dispersed particles.

  Suitable silicones are polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes with the CTFA name dimethicone. Polydimethylsiloxanes having the CTFA name dimethiconol hydroxyl end groups are also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention. For example, as described in WO 96/31188, silicone rubbers with a low degree of crosslinking are also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention. These materials give the hair a body, volume and ease of styling, and provide good wetting and drying conditioning.

The viscosity of the emulsified silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is usually at least 10,000 cst. The inventors have generally found that conditioning performance improves with increasing viscosity. Thus, the viscosity of the silicone itself is preferably at least 60,000 cst, most preferably at least 500,000 cst and ideally at least 1,000,000 cst. Preferably, the viscosity does not exceed 10 ⁹ cst for ease of formulation.

  The emulsified silicone for use in the conditioner of the present invention typically has an average silicone particle size in the composition of less than 30 microns, preferably less than 20 microns, more preferably less than 10 microns. The inventors have found that reducing the particle size generally improves conditioning performance. Most preferably, the average silicone particle size of the emulsified silicone in the composition is less than 2 microns, ideally in the range of 0.01 to 1 micron. Silicone emulsions having an average silicone particle size of ≦ 0.15 microns are commonly referred to as microemulsions.

  The particle size can be measured by laser light scattering techniques using a 2600D particle size analyzer from Malvern Instruments.

  Suitable silicone emulsions for use in the present invention are also commercially available in pre-emulsified form.

  Examples of suitable preformed emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all of which are available from Dow Corning. These are all dimethiconol emulsions / microemulsions. Cross-linked silicone rubber is also available in pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation. A preferred example is a material available from Dow Corning as DC X2-1787, which is an emulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol rubber. A more preferred example is a material available from Dow Corning as DC X2-1391, which is a microemulsion of crosslinked dimethiconol rubber.

  Further preferred silicones for inclusion in the conditioner of the present invention are amino functional silicones. Silicones containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, or quaternary ammonium group are meant by “amino functional silicone”.

Examples of suitable amino functional silicones are
(I) The CTFA name is “amodimethicone” and has the general formula HO— [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ —O—] _X — [Si (OH) (CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ —NH—CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ ) -O-] _Y- H
(Wherein x and y are generally numbers dependent on the molecular weight of the polymer such that it has a molecular weight of about 5,000 to 500,000),
(Ii) the general formula _{R 'a G 3-a -Si} (OSiG 2) n - (OSiG b R' 2-b) m -O-SiG 3-a -R 'a
[Where:
G is selected from H, phenyl, OH or C _1-8 alkyl, such as methyl;
a is 0 or an integer of 1 to 3, preferably 0;
b is 0 or 1, preferably 1,
m and n are numbers that (m + n) can be in the range 1 to 2000, preferably in the range 50 to 150;
m is a number from 1 to 2000, preferably a number from 1 to 10;
n is a number from 0 to 1999, preferably a number from 49 to 149, and R ′ is a monovalent group of formula —C _q H _2q L, where q is from 2 to 8 The numbers and L are as follows: —NR ″ —CH ₂ —CH ₂ —N (R ″) ₂
-N (R ") ₂
−N ⁺ (R ″) ₃ A ^{−
_{-N + H (R ") 2}} A -
_{^{-N + H 2 (R ")}} A -
_{-N (R ") - CH 2} -CH 2 -N + H 2 (R") A -
Wherein R ″ is selected from H, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group such as C _1-20 alkyl;
A is a halogen ion, such as a chloride ion or bromide ion. )
Is an amino functional group selected from ]
A polysiloxane having
including.

Suitable amino-functional silicones corresponding to the above formula are referred to as “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” shown below and include polysiloxanes that are sufficiently water-insoluble to be useful in the compositions of the present invention.
_{Si (CH 3) 3 -O- [} Si (CH 3) 2 -O-] x - [Si (CH 3) (R-NH-CH 2 CH 2 NH 2) -O-] y -Si (CH 3 ₃
Wherein x + y is a number from about 50 to about 500 and R is an alkylene group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms. Preferably, the number x + y ranges from about 100 to about 300. )
(Iii) the general formula ^{{(R 1) (R 2} ) (R 3) N + CH 2 CH (OH) CH 2 O (CH 2) 3 [Si (R 4) (R 5) -O-] n - Si (R ⁶ ) (R ⁷ ) — (CH ₂ ) ₃ —O—CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ N ⁺ (R ⁸ ) (R ⁹ ) (R ¹⁰ )} (X ⁻ ) ₂
Wherein R ¹ and R ¹⁰ may be the same or different, and are H, saturated or unsaturated long chain or short chain alkyl (alkenyl), branched chain alkyl (alkenyl) and C ₅ -C ₈ Independently selected from the cyclic ring system of
R ² to R ⁹ may be the same or different and may be independently selected from H, linear or branched lower alkyl (alkenyl) and C ₅ -C ₈ cyclic ring systems;
n is a number ranging from about 60 to about 120, preferably about 80, and
X ⁻ is preferably acetate, but may alternatively be, for example, a halide, an organic carboxylate, an organic sulfonate, and the like. A suitable quaternary silicone polymer of this class is described in EP-A-0530974. )
A quaternary silicone polymer having:

  Suitable aminofunctional silicones for use in the conditioner of the present invention typically have an amine functionality in the range of about 0.1 to about 8.0 mole percent, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5. It has an amine functionality in the range of 0 mole percent, and most preferably has a mole percent amine functionality in the range of about 0.1 to about 2.0 mole percent. In general, the inventors have found that too high amine concentration can be detrimental to total silicone precipitation, i.e., conditioning performance, so the amine concentration should not exceed about 8.0 mole percent. .

  The viscosity of the amino functional silicone is not particularly critical and can range from about 100 to about 500,000 cst.

  Specific examples of suitable aminofunctional silicones for use in the present invention include aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166, DC2-8466 and DC2-8950-114 (all from Dow Corning) and GE1149-75 ( General Electric Silicones).

  Also suitable are emulsions of aminofunctional silicone oils with nonionic and / or cationic surfactants.

  Suitably, such preformed emulsions have an average amino functional silicone particle size in the composition of less than 30 microns, preferably less than 20 microns, more preferably less than 10 microns. Again, the inventors have found that reducing the particle size generally improves conditioning performance. Most preferably, the average amino functional silicone particle size in the composition is less than 2 microns, ideally in the range of 0.01 to 1 micron. Silicone emulsions having an average silicone particle size of ≦ 0.15 microns are commonly referred to as microemulsions.

  A preformed emulsion of amino-functional silicone is also available from silicone oil suppliers such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Examples include DC929 cationic emulsions, DC939 cationic emulsions and nonionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177 and DC2-8154 (all from Dow Corning).

  An example of a quaternary silicone polymer useful in the present invention is material K3474 from Goldschmidt.

  The total amount of silicone incorporated into the composition of the present invention depends on the desired conditioning and the materials used. A preferred amount is from 0.01 to about 10% by weight of the total composition.

  The inventors have found that the preferred concentration is that the total amount of silicone is 0.3 to 5% by weight of the total composition, preferably 0.5 to 3%.

  Other ingredients include viscosity modifiers, preservatives, colorants, polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents such as EDTA, antioxidants such as vitamin E acetate, perfumes, antibacterial agents and sunscreens It's okay. Each of these components is present in an amount effective to achieve its purpose. In general, these optional ingredients are each included at a concentration of up to about 5% by weight of the total composition.

  Preferably, the compositions according to the invention also contain adjuvants suitable for hair care. In general, each such component is included at a concentration of up to 2%, preferably up to 1% by weight of the total composition.

Suitable hair care supplements include the following:
(I) Natural hair root nutrients such as amino acids and sugars. Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine, and / or precursors and derivatives thereof. The amino acids may be added alone, in a mixture, or in the form of peptides, such as di- and tripeptides. Amino acids may also be added in the form of protein hydrolysates such as keratin or collagen hydrolysates. Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These sugars may be added alone or for example in the form of fruit extracts.
(Ii) Hair fiber benefit agent. For example,
-Ceramide for maintaining the moisture of the fiber and the integrity of the cuticle. Ceramides are available by extraction from natural sources or as synthetic ceramides and pseudoceramides. A preferred ceramide is Ceramide II from Quest. Mixtures of ceramides, such as ceramide LS from Laboratoires Serobiologues, may also be suitable.

  Any mixture of the above active ingredients may also be used.

  In a second aspect, a method for producing a conditioning composition according to the first aspect is provided. The method involves the formation of a conditioning gel phase comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty substance and, optionally, optionally with a cationic surfactant (if present, first added to water) Forming a hydrophobically modified polymer solution.

  Next, after the two mixtures are added to each other, the remaining ingredients are added to form a conditioning composition.

  Preferably, the additional ingredients include perfumes, thickeners, preservatives, colorants and conditioning silicones.

  (Example)

  Formulation according to the invention. It is made by heating about 35% by weight of water to 65-70 ° C. and then adding stearamidopropyldimethylamine. Continue mixing until the product is completely dissolved.

  Add Aculyn 28 at high shear rate to aid dispersion.

  Separately, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid and paraffin wax are melted together and this molten mixture is added to the main mixer containing Acculin and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

  Cool to 40-45 ° C and then add conditioning silicone, fragrance and preservative.

  Composition A is the composition according to Example 1, while comparative composition B is identical except that it is free of stearic acid.

  Compositions A and B were compared for their ability to deposit silicone.

  Composition A recorded 2403 ppm, while composition B recorded only 1327 ppm.

Claims (11)

  A hair conditioning composition comprising a hydrophobically modified anionic polymer, silicone and a fatty acid.   The composition of claim 1 comprising a structuring agent.   The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polymer is an acrylate polymer.   The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polymer is a methacrylate polymer.   5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the hydrophobic modification comprises alkylation.   6. A composition according to claim 5, wherein the alkyl group comprises 6 to 30 carbons.   The composition according to any of claims 2 to 6, wherein the structuring agent is paraffin wax.   8. A composition according to any preceding claim comprising from 0.01 to 5% by weight polymer.   9. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the fatty acid comprises 8 to 28 carbons.   The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the fatty acid is linear.   The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the fatty acid is stearic acid.