JP2011225561A - Oil-in-water type foundation - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide oil-in-water type foundation having excellent feeling of use, such as moist feeling of skin after use and smoothness in adhesiveness, and having excellent persistence of a cosmetic film in foundation used at the same time.SOLUTION: The oil-in-water type foundation contains: (a) dextrin fatty acid ester, namely an esterified product of dextrin and a fatty acid, where a mean degree of polymerization of glucose in dextrin is 3 to 150, the fatty acid contains one kind or not less than two kinds of branched saturated fatty acids having a carbon number of 4-26 by more than 50 mol% and not more than 100 mol% for the total fatty acid and one type or not less than two types selected from a group comprising a linear saturated fatty acid having a carbon number of 2-22, a linear or branched unsaturated fatty acid having a carbon number of 6-30, and a cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having a carbon number of 6-30 by not less than 0 mol% and less than 50 mol% to the entire fatty acid, and a degree of substitution of the fatty acid per glucose unit is 1.0 to 3.0; and (b) an oil solution.

Description

  The present invention relates to an oil-in-water base cosmetic containing a novel dextrin fatty acid ester, and more specifically, it is excellent in use feeling such as moist feeling of the back skin and smoothness of the stop, and the base cosmetic. The present invention relates to an oil-in-water base cosmetic that is also excellent in the sustainability of a cosmetic film such as a foundation used after.

  Conventionally, it is known that the water resistance and makeup sustainability of cosmetics are improved by blending resin components with oil-in-water cosmetics (see, for example, Patent Documents 1 to 4). However, when a resin with high film forming properties such as Patent Documents 1 to 3 is blended, the secondary adhesion prevention effect and water resistance of the cosmetic itself are greatly improved, but there is a sticky stickiness. To make a base cosmetic, the cosmetic film is hard, and the finish of the foundation used after the base cosmetic and the makeup sustainability are not satisfactory. Further, the oil-in-water cosmetic of Patent Document 4 is not satisfactory because it has no stickiness and is excellent in the flexibility of the cosmetic film, but has a tight stop when applied. Therefore, an oil-in-water base cosmetic that provides a moist feeling due to the remaining flexible film suitable for the base cosmetic, has excellent smoothness, and has a long lasting cosmetic film such as a foundation to be used later. Development of was desired.

JP-A-7-267817 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-25218 JP-A-11-180823 JP 2002-348209 A

  In view of the above situation, the present inventors have conducted intensive research, and as a result, found that an oil-in-water base cosmetic containing a novel dextrin fatty acid ester and an oil solves the above problems, and completed the present invention. .

That is, the present invention
(1) the following components (a) and (b);
(A) An esterified product of dextrin and a fatty acid, wherein the dextrin has an average polymerization degree of glucose of 3 to 150, and the fatty acid is one or more of branched saturated fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms. More than 50 mol% and not more than 100 mol%, linear saturated fatty acid having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched unsaturated fatty acid having 6 to 30 carbon atoms and cyclic saturated or unsaturated having 6 to 30 carbon atoms A dextrin fatty acid ester containing 0 mol% or more and less than 50 mol% of one or more selected from the group consisting of fatty acids and having a degree of substitution of fatty acids per glucose unit of 1.0 to 3.0 (B) an oil-in-water base cosmetic comprising an oil agent,
(2) The branched saturated fatty acid of component (a) is one or more types of branched saturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, the oil-in-water base cosmetic according to (1) above,
(3) The component (a) does not have a gelling ability of liquid paraffin having a kinematic viscosity at 40 ° C. of 8 mm ² / s according to ASTM D445 measurement method, described in (1) or (2) above Oil-in-water base cosmetics,
(4) A light fluid isoparaffin solution containing 40% by mass of component (a) was formed on a glass plate with a 400 μm-thick applicator, and the dried film was subjected to a load of 100 g using a texture analyzer and held for 10 seconds. The oil-in-water substrate according to any one of (1) to (3) above, wherein the load change (maximum stress value) applied to the contact point when separated at 0.5 mm / second is 30 to 1000 g It relates to cosmetics.
Furthermore, the present invention provides
(5) The present invention relates to a cosmetic method characterized by using a powder cosmetic after using the oil-in-water base cosmetic described in any of (1) to (4) above.

  The oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention can be obtained by blending a novel dextrin fatty acid ester and an oil agent to obtain a flexible cosmetic film, moist feeling of the back skin, smoothness of the stop, and further use later It is possible to improve the durability of the decorative film such as a foundation.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The dextrin fatty acid ester of component (a) used in the present invention is an esterified product of dextrin and fatty acid, and the degree of substitution of fatty acid for dextrin is 1.0 to 3.0 per glucose unit, preferably 1 2 to 2.8. When the degree of substitution is less than 1.0, the dissolution temperature in liquid oil or the like is as high as 100 ° C. or higher, and coloring or a specific odor is not preferable.

The dextrin fatty acid ester of component (a) has the following characteristics.
(1) Liquid oil does not gel when mixed with liquid oil.
“Liquid oil does not gel” means that when liquid paraffin having a kinematic viscosity of 8 mm ² / s at 40 ° C. according to ASTM D445 measurement method is used as a liquid oil, 5% by mass of dextrin fatty acid ester (hereinafter, simply “%”). When the viscosity of the liquid paraffin contained is dissolved at 100 ° C. and measured at 25 ° C. after 24 hours, the viscosity is Yamaco DIGITAL VISCOMATE viscometer VM-100A (vibration type) (manufactured by Yamaichi Electronics Co., Ltd.) Is below the detection limit. In addition, when gelatinizing, it can confirm by detecting a viscosity.
(2) The film formed by the dextrin fatty acid ester of component (a) has a specific range of tackiness.
The “tackiness” is determined by applying the dextrin fatty acid ester to a support and bringing the other support into surface contact from a state where they are separated from each other, then retracting them and separating them. When expressed by the load change (maximum stress value) applied to the contact point until the film is formed, a light liquid isoparaffin solution containing 40% by mass of the dextrin fatty acid ester is formed on a glass plate with a 400 μm-thick applicator and dried. , Texture analyzers, eg texture analyzer TA. Using XTplus (manufactured by Stable Micro Systems), a probe made of a 12.5 mm diameter cylindrical polyacetal resin (manufactured by Delrin (registered trademark) DuPont) was used as a probe, and a load of 100 g was applied after 10 seconds. The load change when separated at 5 mm / second, that is, the tackiness is 30 to 1,000 g.

  The dextrin used in the dextrin fatty acid ester of component (a) is preferably a dextrin having a glucose average polymerization degree of 3 to 150, particularly 10 to 100. When the average degree of polymerization of glucose is 2 or less, the obtained dextrin fatty acid ester becomes wax-like and the solubility in an oil agent decreases. On the other hand, when the average degree of polymerization of glucose exceeds 150, there may be a problem that the temperature for dissolving the dextrin fatty acid ester in the oil becomes high or the solubility becomes poor. The sugar chain of dextrin may be linear, branched or cyclic.

  The fatty acid used in the dextrin fatty acid ester of component (a) is essentially one or more of branched saturated fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and further is a linear saturated fatty acid having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, 6 to 6 carbon atoms. One or more selected from the group consisting of 30 linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids and cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms (hereinafter these branched saturated fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms) When other fatty acids are expressed together, they may be referred to as “other fatty acids”.

The composition ratio of the fatty acid is such that one or more of the branched saturated fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms is more than 50 mol% and not more than 100 mol%, preferably not less than 55 mol% and not more than 100 mol%, based on the total fatty acids. The fatty acid is 0 mol% or more and less than 50 mol%, preferably 0 mol% or more and 45 mol% or less.
Examples of the branched saturated fatty acid having 4 to 26 carbon atoms include, for example, isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, 2-ethylbutyric acid, ethylmethylacetic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isomyristin Acid, isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, isoarachidic acid, isohexacosanoic acid and the like can be mentioned, and one or more of these can be appropriately selected or used in combination. Of these, those having 12 to 22 carbon atoms are preferred, isostearic acid is particularly preferred, and there is no particular limitation on the difference in structure.

  In the present invention, isostearic acid means one kind of branched stearic acid or a mixture of two or more kinds. For example, 5,7,7-trimethyl-2- (1,3,3-trimethylbutyl) -octanoic acid is converted to a branched aldehyde having 9 carbon atoms by oxo reaction of isobutylene dimer, and then carbon is obtained by aldol condensation of this aldehyde. The branched unsaturated aldehyde of formula 18 can be produced by hydrogenation and oxidation (hereinafter abbreviated as “aldol condensation type”), which is commercially available, for example, from Nissan Chemical Industries. 2-Heptylundecanoic acid can be produced by dimerization of nonyl alcohol through a gerbet reaction (also referred to as Guerbet reaction or Guerbe reaction) and oxidation, which is commercially available from, for example, Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation. A slightly different similar mixture is commercially available from Nissan Chemical Industries, and a methyl branched type in which the starting alcohol is not linearly saturated is also commercially available from Nissan Chemical Co. (hereinafter abbreviated as "garbet reaction type"). ). Further, methyl-branched isostearic acid is obtained as a by-product at the time of dimer production of oleic acid, for example [for example, J. Org. Amer. Oil Chem. Soc. , 51, 522 (1974)], for example, those commercially available from Emery, USA (hereinafter abbreviated as "emery type"). Further starting materials of dimer acid which is a starting material of emery type isostearic acid may include not only oleic acid but also linoleic acid, linolenic acid and the like. In the present invention, this emery type is particularly preferable.

  Examples of the linear saturated fatty acid having 2 to 22 carbon atoms include acetic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, and behenic acid. Species or two or more can be appropriately selected or combined for use. Among these, those having 8 to 22 carbon atoms are preferable, and those having 12 to 22 carbon atoms are particularly preferable.

  Examples of the straight-chain or branched unsaturated fatty acid having 6 to 30 carbon atoms include, for example, cis-4-decene (obtusil) acid, 9-decene (caprolein) acid, cis-4-dodecene (mono-unsaturated fatty acid). Lindel) acid, cis-4-tetradecene (Tuzu) acid, cis-5-tetradecene (ficeterin) acid, cis-9-tetradecene (myristolein) acid, cis-6-hexadecenoic acid, cis-9-hexadecene (palmitolein) ) Acid, cis-9-octadecene (oleic) acid, trans-9-octadecenoic acid (elaidic acid), cis-11-octadecene (asclepine) acid, cis-11-eicosene (gondrain) acid, cis-17-hexacosene (Ximene) acid, cis-21-triacontene (lumecen) acid and the like, and polyene unsaturated fatty acid and Sorbic acid, linoleic acid, hiragoic acid, punicic acid, linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, moloctic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid, EPA, sardic acid, DHA, nisinic acid, stearonic acid, crepenic acid, ximenine An acid etc. are mentioned.

  The cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 6 to 30 carbon atoms means a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 6 to 30 carbon atoms having a cyclic structure in at least a part of the basic skeleton. For example, 9,10-methylene-9- Octadecenoic acid; Alleprilic acid, Allepuric acid, Gorulic acid, α-Cyclopentylic acid, α-Cyclohexylic acid, α-Cyclopentylethyl acid, α-Cyclohexylmethyl acid, ω-Cyclohexylic acid, 5 (6) -carboxy-4-hexyl Examples include 2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid, malvalic acid, sterlic acid, hydonocarpic acid, and shawl moulinic acid.

Examples of the dextrin fatty acid ester in the case where the branched saturated fatty acid alone is used as the fatty acid used in the component (a) dextrin fatty acid ester include the following.
Dextrin isobutyrate dextrin ethyl methyl acetate dextrin isoheptanoate dextrin 2-ethylhexanoate dextrin isononanoate dextrin isodecanoate dextrin isopalmitate dextrin isostearate dextrin isoarachidate dextrin isohexacosanoate Dextrin (isovaleric acid / isostearic acid) ester

Examples of the dextrin fatty acid ester in the case where a mixed fatty acid of a branched saturated fatty acid and another fatty acid is used as the fatty acid used in the component (a) dextrin fatty acid ester include the following.
Dextrin (isobutyric acid / caprylic acid) ester dextrin (2-ethylhexanoic acid / caprylic acid) ester dextrin (isoarachidic acid / caprylic acid) ester dextrin (isopalmitic acid / caprylic acid) ester dextrin (ethylmethylacetic acid / lauric acid) ester Dextrin (2-ethylhexanoic acid / lauric acid) ester dextrin (isoheptanoic acid / lauric acid / behenic acid) ester dextrin (isostearic acid / myristic acid) ester dextrin (isohexacosanoic acid / myristic acid) ester dextrin (2-ethylhexanoic acid / Palmitic acid) ester dextrin (isostearic acid / palmitic acid) ester dextrin (isostearic acid / isovaleric acid / palmitic acid) ester dextist (Isononanoic acid / palmitic acid / caproic acid) ester dextrin (2-ethylhexanoic acid / palmitic acid / stearic acid) ester dextrin (isodecanoic acid / palmitic acid) ester dextrin (isopalmitic acid / stearic acid) ester dextrin (isostearic acid) / Arachidic acid) ester dextrin (2-ethylhexanoic acid / arachidic acid) ester dextrin (2-ethylbutyric acid / behenic acid) ester dextrin (isononanoic acid / linoleic acid) ester dextrin (isopalmitic acid / arachidonic acid) ester dextrin (iso Palmitic acid / caprylic acid / linoleic acid) ester dextrin (isostearic acid / stearic acid / oleic acid) ester dextrin (isoarachidic acid / palmitic acid / chocolate) Rumugurin acid) ester

Next, the manufacturing method of the dextrin fatty acid ester of a component (a) is demonstrated.
It does not specifically limit as a manufacturing method, Although a well-known manufacturing method is employable, it can manufacture as follows, for example.

  (1) A dextrin having an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 3 to 150 and one or more of branched saturated fatty acid derivatives having 4 to 26 carbon atoms, more than 50 mol% and not more than 100 mol% with respect to all fatty acid derivatives, and 1 selected from the group consisting of a linear saturated fatty acid derivative having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, a linear or branched unsaturated fatty acid derivative having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and a cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acid derivative having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Species or two or more kinds (hereinafter referred to as “other fatty acid derivatives” when these fatty acid derivatives are collectively shown) are reacted with a fatty acid derivative containing 0 mol% or more and less than 50 mol% with respect to the total fatty acid derivatives.

(2) A dextrin having an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 3 to 150 is reacted with one or more of branched saturated fatty acid derivatives having 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and then the product and other fatty acid derivatives React.
In that case, one or more of the branched saturated fatty acid derivatives having 4 to 26 carbon atoms with respect to the total fatty acid derivatives are more than 50 mol% and not more than 100 mol%, and other fatty acid derivatives are 0 mol% with respect to the total fatty acid derivatives More than 50 mol% is used.

Examples of fatty acid derivatives used for the esterification reaction with the dextrin include halides and acid anhydrides of the fatty acids.
In both cases (1) and (2), first, dextrin is dispersed in a reaction solvent, and a catalyst is added as necessary. To this, the above-mentioned fatty acid halide, acid anhydride or the like is added and reacted. In the case of the production method (1), these acids are mixed and reacted at the same time, and in the case of the production method (2), after first reacting a branched saturated fatty acid derivative having low reactivity, A fatty acid derivative is added and reacted.

  Of these, preferred methods can be employed for production. As the reaction solvent, a solvent such as formamide such as dimethylformamide and formamide; acetamide; ketone; aromatic compounds such as benzene, toluene and xylene; and a solvent such as dioxane can be used as appropriate. As the reaction catalyst, tertiary amino compounds such as pyridine and picoline can be used. The reaction temperature is appropriately selected depending on the starting fatty acid and the like, but a temperature of 0 ° C to 100 ° C is preferred.

  The blending amount of the component (a) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is 0.1 to 10.0% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”), preferably 1.0 to 5.0%. It is. Within this range, the oil-in-water base makeup is excellent in smoothness of the stop and excellent in the sustainability of a makeup film such as a foundation to be used later by forming a flexible film by the components (a) and (b). A fee is obtained. If the blending amount is more than 10.0%, the appearance color of the cosmetic may be light yellow, which is not preferable.

  The oil agent of component (b) used in the present invention imparts a feeling such as elongation to an oil-in-water base cosmetic, and is not particularly limited as long as it is an oil agent used in ordinary cosmetics. Regardless of origin such as vegetable oil, synthetic oil, and solid oil, semi-solid oil, liquid oil, volatile oil, etc., hydrocarbons, fats, waxes, hardened oils, ester oils, fatty acids, Oil agents such as higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorine oils, lanolin derivatives and the like can be mentioned. Specifically, hydrocarbons such as squalane, petrolatum, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, molasses, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, mink oil, macadamian nut oil, etc. Fats and oils, beeswax, lanolin, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, waxes such as gay wax, cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diisostearate di Glyceryl, diglyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tribehenate, rosin acid pentaerythritol ester, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol fat Esters, esters such as N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl, behenyl, octyldodecyl), higher alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, low polymerization dimethyl Silicone such as polysiloxane, high degree of polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, fluorine-modified silicone, fluorine such as perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecane, perfluorooctane Oils, lanolin, lanolin acetate, lanolin derivatives such as lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, lanolin alcohol, isotridecyl isononanoate, diety Hexanoic acid neopentyl glycol, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyl salicylate, and the like, from these, one or more, it is possible to choose to use. Among these, the triester of 2-hexylhexanoic acid and glycerin and liquid paraffin are preferable because they are excellent in solubility of the component (a) and have good emulsion stability.

  Although the compounding quantity of the component (b) in this invention is not specifically limited, It is 1.0-20.0%, Preferably it is 5.0-10.0%. Within this range, an oil-in-water base cosmetic that is formed with a flexible film by components (a) and (b), has a moist feeling on the back skin, and has excellent makeup film durability such as a foundation to be used later. can get. If the amount is too large, stickiness may be felt, which is not preferable.

In addition, the following can be mix | blended with the oil-in-water type foundation cosmetics of this invention as a component used for normal oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetics.
The aqueous component used in the present invention is used for the purpose of a feeling modifier, a moisturizing agent, a refreshing agent, a preservative, and the like. Water, alcohols such as ethanol and isopropyl alcohol, propylene glycol, 1, 3- Examples include glycols such as butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and polyethylene glycol, and glycerols such as glycerin, diglycerin, and polyglycerin. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  Examples of the surfactant used in the present invention include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and the like, and one or more of these are used. be able to. Specifically, as an anionic surfactant, fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid are used as alkalis such as sodium, potassium and triethanolamine. Examples include fatty acid soaps, acyl glutamates, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene-added alkyl phosphates and the like formed by the substance. Examples of the cationic surfactant include alkylamine salts and alkyl quaternary ammonium salts. Amphoteric surfactants include N, N-dimethyl-N-alkyl-N-carboxylmethylammonium betaine, N, N-dialkylaminoalkylene carboxylic acid, N, N, N-trialkyl-N-sulfoalkylene ammonium betaine N, N-dialkyl-N, N-bis (polyoxyethylene sulfate) ammonium betaine, 2-alkyl-1-hydroxyethyl-1-carboxymethylimidazolinium betaine, lecithin, phospholipid and the like. Nonionic surfactants include glycerin fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, polyglycerin fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, propylene glycol fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, sorbitan fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof. , Fatty acid ester of sorbitol and its alkylene glycol adduct, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, glycerin alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, alkylene glycol of lanolin Sugars such as adducts, dextrin fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, starch fatty acid esters Acid esters, polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxanes, and the like. The content of the surfactant in the oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the type of surfactant, the amount and quality of the oil, but is generally preferably 0.1 to 20%.

  Further, by adding a higher alcohol, it becomes possible to obtain a better oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic. Examples of the higher alcohol used in the present invention include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol, and behenyl alcohol. These higher alcohols can be blended by selecting one or more kinds.

  Since the water-soluble polymer used in the present invention prevents separation of the emulsified particles, it is possible to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic having higher long-term stability. Examples of water-soluble polymers include gum arabic, tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, guar gum, caraya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, quince seed (malmello), starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat), algae colloid (brown algae extract), etc. Plant polymer, microbial polymer such as dextran, succinoglucan, pullulan, animal polymer such as collagen, casein, albumin, gelatin, starch polymer such as carboxymethyl starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch, methylcellulose , Nitrocellulose, ethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose sodium Cellulose-based polymers such as cellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, alginic acid-based polymers such as sodium alginate and propylene glycol alginate, vinyl-based polymers such as polyvinyl methyl ether and carboxyvinyl polymers (such as CARBOPOL (registered trademark)), Polyoxyethylene polymer, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene copolymer polymer, acrylic polymer such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate, polyacrylamide, polyethyleneimine, cationic polymer, bentonite, aluminum magnesium silicate, Inorganic water-soluble polymers such as laponite, hectorite, and silicic anhydride.

Furthermore, the oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention can be added with powders, cosmetic ingredients, fragrances, pigments, and the like as required, as long as the emulsion stability is not impaired.
Beauty ingredients include vitamin A oil, retinol, retinol palmitate, inosit, pyridoxine hydrochloride, benzyl nicotinate, nicotinic acid amide, nicotinic acid dl-α-tocopherol, magnesium ascorbate phosphate, vitamin D2 (ergocassipherol), vitamins such as dl-α-tocopherol, dl-α-tocopherol acetate, pantothenic acid, biotin, hormones such as estradiol and ethinylestradiol, amino acids such as arginine, aspartic acid, cystine, cysteine, methionine, serine, leucine and tryptophan, Allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid, azulene acid anti-inflammatory agent, whitening agents such as arbutin, astringents such as zinc oxide and tannic acid, refreshing agents such as L-menthol and camphor, sulfur, lysozyme chloride Pyridoxine hydrochloride, there is a γ- oryzanol and the like.

  In the present invention, the base cosmetic means a cosmetic that itself does not have a sufficient makeup effect, and on which it is essential to apply a makeup cosmetic such as a foundation. Examples include under-makeup, control color, spot covers, and concealer.

  The method for producing the oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention may be a generally known method and is not particularly limited. For example, glycerin, a fragrance, or an antiseptic is added to a water-soluble polymer neutralized with an alkali and mixed and swollen. And a method of mixing and emulsifying oil components after uniformly mixing an aqueous component such as a pigment and a spherical powder for adjusting the feeling of use.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. In addition, this invention is not limited to an Example.

《Reference production example of novel dextrin fatty acid ester》
Reference production examples of novel dextrin fatty acid esters used in the present invention are shown below. Further, the degree of substitution, mol% of constituent fatty acids, viscosity, and tackiness were measured by the following methods.

(Measurement method of substitution degree, mol% of constituent fatty acids)
The IR spectrum of the dextrin fatty acid ester of Reference Production Example was measured, and the degree of substitution and mol% of the constituent fatty acid were determined from the amount of fatty acid after alkali decomposition and gas chromatography.

(Measurement method of viscosity)
Liquid paraffin containing 5% by mass of each sample (dextrin fatty acid ester of Reference Production Example) is dissolved at 100 ° C. and cooled to room temperature (25 ° C.). The temperature was kept for 24 hours in a thermostatic bath at 25 ° C., and the viscosity was measured using the following measuring equipment.
The liquid paraffin used had a kinematic viscosity at 40 ° C. of 8 mm ² / s according to ASTM D445 measurement method.
[Measurement equipment] Yamaco DIGITAL VISCOMATE MODEL VM-100A (manufactured by Yamaichi Electronics Co., Ltd.)

(Tackiness measurement method)
A solution of 40% of each sample (dextrin fatty acid ester of Reference Production Example) dissolved in IP Clean LX (light liquid isoparaffin) was applied to a glass plate with a 400 μm-thick applicator, and the film was dried at room temperature for 24 hours, and then 70 ° C. After storage for 12 hours, the tackiness of the dried product at room temperature of 25 ° C. was evaluated using the following equipment and conditions.
[Measurement equipment] Texture analyzer TA. XTplus (manufactured by Stable Micro Systems)
[Probe] 1/2 Cyl. Delrin (polyacetal resin (POM)) P / 0.5), cylindrical shape with a diameter of 12.5 mm [Measurement conditions] Test Speed: 0.5 mm / sec, Applied Force: 100 g, Contact Time: 10 sec

[Reference Production Example 1: Dextrin isostearic acid (emery type) ester]
21.41 g (0.132 mol) of dextrin having an average glucose polymerization degree of 30 is dispersed at 70 ° C. in a mixed solvent composed of 71 g of dimethylformamide and 62 g (0.666 mol) of 3-methylpyridine, and 120 g of isostearic acid chloride (emery type). (0.396 mol) was added dropwise over 30 minutes. After completion of the dropwise addition, the reaction temperature was 80 ° C. and the reaction was performed for 5 hours. After completion of the reaction, the reaction solution was dispersed in methanol, and the upper layer was removed. The semi-solid content was washed several times with methanol and dried to obtain 107 g of a pale yellow resinous substance. (Branch saturated fatty acid 60 mol% when charged)
The emery type starting material used was EMARSOL873 made by Cognis. The fatty acid composition of this raw material was 60 mol% branched saturated fatty acids and 40 mol% other fatty acids (including 10 mol% palmitic acid). (The same applies hereinafter)
The degree of substitution was 2.2, isostearic acid 60 mol%, other fatty acids 40 mol% (internal palmitic acid 10 mol%), the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 161 g.

[Reference Production Examples 2 to 4: Dextrin isostearic acid (emery type) ester]
According to the raw materials and methods described in Reference Production Example 1,
In Reference Production Example 2, 0.172 mol of isostearic acid chloride (emery type) was used per 0.132 mol of dextrin having an average glucose polymerization degree of 30 to obtain dextrin isostearic acid (emery type) ester. (Branch saturated fatty acid 60 mol% when charged)
The degree of substitution was 1.0, the branched saturated fatty acid was 60 mol%, the other fatty acid was 40 mol% (internal palmitic acid was 10 mol%), the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 35 g.
In Reference Production Example 3, 0.224 mol of isostearic acid chloride (emery type) was used with respect to 0.132 mol of dextrin having an average glucose polymerization degree of 30 to obtain dextrin isostearic acid (emery type) ester. (Branch saturated fatty acid 60 mol% when charged)
The degree of substitution was 1.4, the branched saturated fatty acid was 60 mol%, the other fatty acid was 40 mol% (internal palmitic acid was 10 mol%), the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 45 g.
In Reference Production Example 4, 0.502 mol of isostearic acid chloride (emery type) was used per 0.132 mol of dextrin having an average glucose polymerization degree of 30 to obtain dextrin isostearic acid (emery type) ester. (Branch saturated fatty acid 60 mol% when charged)
The degree of substitution was 2.6, the branched saturated fatty acid was 60 mol%, the other fatty acid was 40 mol% (internal palmitic acid was 10 mol%), the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 750 g.

[Reference Production Example 5: Dextrin isostearate]
It was prepared in the same manner as in Reference Production Example 1 except that isostearic acid chloride (gerbet reaction type) was used instead of isostearic acid chloride (emery type) to obtain 80 g of a pale yellow resinous substance. (Branch saturated fatty acid 100 mol% when charged)
Note that fine oxochol isostearic acid-N manufactured by Nissan Chemical Industries, Ltd. was used as the starting material for the gerbet reaction type.
The degree of substitution was 1.8, isostearic acid 100 mol%, the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 173 g.

[Reference Production Example 6: Dextrin isostearate]
It was prepared in the same manner as in Reference Production Example 1 except that isostearic acid chloride (aldol condensation type) was used instead of isostearic acid chloride (emery type) to obtain 60 g of a pale yellow resinous substance. (Branch saturated fatty acid 100 mol% when charged)
Note that fine oxochol isostearic acid manufactured by Nissan Chemical Industries, Ltd. was used as the starting material for the aldol condensation type.
The degree of substitution was 1.2, isostearic acid 100 mol%, the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 61 g.

[Reference Production Example 7: dextrin isoarachidic acid / palmitic acid ester]
Dextrin (51.28 g) having an average glucose polymerization degree of 150 was dispersed in a mixed solvent consisting of 150 g of dimethylformamide and 60 g of pyridine at 70 ° C., and a mixture of 132 g of isoarachidic acid chloride and 12 g of palmitic acid chloride was added dropwise over 30 minutes. After completion of the dropwise addition, the reaction temperature was 80 ° C. and the reaction was performed for 5 hours. After completion of the reaction, the reaction solution was dispersed in methanol, and the upper layer was removed. The semi-solid content was washed several times with methanol and dried to obtain 145 g of a pale yellow resinous substance. (Branch saturated fatty acid 90mol% at the time of preparation)
The degree of substitution was 1.1, isoarachidic acid 85 mol%, palmitic acid 15 mol%, viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and tackiness was 45 g.

[Reference Production Example 8: dextrin isobutyric acid / capric acid ester]
34.19 g of dextrin having an average glucose polymerization degree of 5 was dispersed in 215 g of 3-methylpyridine at 70 ° C., and a mixture of 50 g of isobutyric acid chloride and 60 g of capric acid chloride was added dropwise over 30 minutes. After completion of the dropwise addition, the reaction temperature was 80 ° C. and the reaction was performed for 5 hours. After completion of the reaction, the reaction solution was dispersed in methanol, and the upper layer was removed. The semi-solid content was washed several times with ethanol and dried to obtain 98 g of a pale yellow resinous substance. (Branch saturated fatty acid 60 mol% when charged)
The degree of substitution was 2.9, isobutyric acid 63 mol%, capric acid 37 mol%, the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 255 g.

[Reference Production Example 9: Dextrin Isopalmitate]
Dextrin (23.62 g) having an average glucose polymerization degree of 100 was dispersed in a mixed solvent consisting of 71 g of dimethylformamide and 62 g of 3-methylpyridine at 70 ° C., and 100 g of isopalmitic acid chloride was added dropwise for 30 minutes. After completion of the dropwise addition, the reaction temperature was 80 ° C. and the reaction was performed for 5 hours. After completion of the reaction, the reaction solution was dispersed in methanol, and the upper layer was removed. The semi-solid content was washed several times with methanol and dried to obtain 90 g of a pale yellow resinous substance. (Branch saturated fatty acid 100 mol% when charged)
The degree of substitution was 2.0, isopalmitic acid 100 mol%, the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 204 g.

[Reference Production Example 10: Dextrin isononanoic acid / stearic acid ester]
36.34 g of dextrin with an average glucose polymerization degree of 20 was dispersed at 70 ° C. in a mixed solvent consisting of 120 g of dimethylformamide and 62 g of 3-methylpyridine, and a mixture of 41 g of isononanoic acid chloride and 58 g of stearic acid chloride was added dropwise over 30 minutes. . After completion of the dropwise addition, the reaction temperature was 80 ° C. and the reaction was performed for 5 hours. After completion of the reaction, the reaction solution was dispersed in methanol, and the upper layer was removed. The semi-solid content was washed several times with methanol and dried to obtain 95 g of a pale yellow resinous substance. (Branch saturated fatty acid 55 mol% when charged)
The degree of substitution was 1.6, 51 mol% isononanoic acid, 49 mol% stearic acid, the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 64 g.

[Reference Production Example 11: Dextrin 2-ethylhexanoic acid / behenic acid ester]
54.56 g of dextrin having an average glucose polymerization degree of 20 is dispersed at 70 ° C. in a mixed solvent consisting of 150 g of dimethylformamide and 130 g of 3-methylpyridine, and 147 g of 2-ethylhexanoic acid chloride and then 36 g of behenic acid chloride are added over 30 minutes. And dripped. After completion of the dropwise addition, the reaction temperature was 80 ° C. and the reaction was performed for 5 hours. After completion of the reaction, the reaction solution was dispersed in methanol, and the upper layer was removed. The semi-solid content was washed several times with methanol and dried to obtain 95 g of a pale yellow resinous substance. (Branch saturated fatty acid 90mol% at the time of preparation)
The degree of substitution was 2.3, 2-ethylhexanoic acid 95 mol%, behenic acid 5 mol%, the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 138 g.

[Reference Production Example 12: dextrin isopalmitic acid / acetate]
22.56 g of dextrin having an average glucose polymerization degree of 20 was dispersed at 70 ° C. in a mixed solvent composed of 71 g of dimethylformamide and 70 g of 3-methylpyridine, and a mixture of 110 g of isopalmitic acid chloride and 10 g of acetic anhydride was added dropwise over 30 minutes. . After completion of the dropwise addition, the reaction temperature was 80 ° C. and the reaction was performed for 5 hours. After completion of the reaction, the reaction solution was dispersed in methanol, and the upper layer was removed. The semi-solid content was washed several times with methanol and dried to obtain 96 g of a pale yellow resinous material. (Branch saturated fatty acid 80mol% at the time of preparation)
The degree of substitution was 2.8, 79 mol% of isopalmitic acid, 21 mol% of acetic acid, the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 430 g.

[Reference Production Example 13: Dextrin isostearic acid (emery type) / oleic acid ester]
19.9 g of dextrin having an average glucose polymerization degree of 40 is dispersed in a mixed solvent composed of 71 g of dimethylformamide and 62 g of 3-methylpyridine at 70 ° C., and a mixture of 108 g of isostearic acid chloride (emery type) and 12 g of oleic acid chloride is used for 30 minutes. It was dripped over. After completion of the dropwise addition, the reaction temperature was 80 ° C. and the reaction was performed for 5 hours. After completion of the reaction, the reaction solution was dispersed in methanol, and the upper layer was removed. The semi-solid content was washed several times with methanol and dried to obtain 88 g of a pale yellow resinous substance. (Branch saturated fatty acid 54mol% at the time of preparation)
The degree of substitution was 2.2, isostearic acid 54 mol%, oleic acid 10 mol%, the viscosity was 0 mPa · s, and the tackiness was 350 g.

Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4: Base cosmetic (under makeup)
The foundation cosmetics having the composition shown in Table 1 were prepared by the following production method, and the “moist feeling” and “smooth stop” of the oil-in-water foundation cosmetics, and the makeup foundation of the powder foundation used together, the liquid foundation. Each item of makeup film persistence was evaluated by the following evaluation methods and criteria, and the results are shown in Table 1.

* 1: Ester gum HP [Arakawa Chemical Industries, Ltd.]
* 2: Pine Flow S [Matsuya Chemical Co., Ltd.]
* 3: Leopard KL [Chiba Flour Mills]
* 4: Leopard TT [Chiba Flour Mills]

(Production method)
A: Components 10 to 12 are dissolved by heating, components 1 to 9 which are also dissolved by heating are injected, and emulsified at 80 ° C. B: Component 13 is added and dispersed uniformly.
C: After cooling to room temperature, the container was filled to obtain a base cosmetic.

(Evaluation method 1)
The panel cosmetics of the above-mentioned examples and comparative examples were used by 20 professional cosmetic panels, and each panel was evaluated as follows for “moist feeling” and “smoothness of stop” when using the base cosmetics. A score was assigned according to the criteria, and the average score of all the panels was calculated for each prepared base cosmetic, and judged according to the following criteria.
〔Evaluation criteria〕
Evaluation: Score Very good: 5 points Good: 4 points Normal: 3 points Somewhat bad: 2 points Bad: 1 point [Criteria]
Average score of all panels: Judge 4.5 or more: ◎
3.5 or more and less than 4.5: ○
2.0 to less than 3.5: △
Less than 2.0: ×

(Evaluation method 2) Evaluation of cosmetic film durability 0.1 g of the base cosmetic material of the above examples and comparative examples is uniformly applied to a finger in a 3 cm × 5 cm rectangular shape on urethane artificial skin (Bioplate manufactured by BEAULAX). About 0.1 g of each of the following two types of foundations was uniformly applied on a cosmetic mat. Ten minutes later, tap water was run from the top of the coated surface at a rate of 3 liters per minute for 60 seconds and then observed.
[Powder Foundation]
Component (%)
(1) Remaining talc (2) Mica 15
(3) Titanium oxide 14
(4) Synthetic phlogopite 10
(5) Methyl methacrylate cross polymer 5
(6) Yellow iron oxide 1.5
(7) Red iron oxide 0.5
(8) Black iron oxide 0.2
(9) Silica 3
(10) Synthetic wax 1
(11) Barium sulfate 2
(12) Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 3
(13) Dimethicone 4
(14) Dioctyl succinate 4
[Production method]
A: Mix components 1-11 B: Mix components 12-14 C: Add B to A and mix D: Crush C

[Liquid Foundation]
Component (%)
(1) Titanium oxide 10
(2) Talc 6
(3) Yellow iron oxide 1.5
(4) Red iron oxide 0.5
(5) Black iron oxide 0.2
(6) Mica 1
(7) PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 1
(8) Water remaining amount (9) BG 1
(10) Glycerin 0.5
(11) DPG 0.1
(12) Sodium chloride 0.3
(13) Ethanol 6
(14) Cyclomethicone 20
(15) Phenyltrimethicone 5
(16) Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 3
(17) Dimethicone 2
(18) PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 1
[Production method]
A: Components 1 to 7 are mixed and processed with a roller. B: Components 8 to 13 are uniformly mixed and dissolved. C: Components 14 to 18 are uniformly dissolved. D: C is added to A and mixed uniformly. E : Emulsify by adding B to D

〔Evaluation criteria〕
No change: ◎
Slightly changed, but the cosmetic film persists: ○
Changed, the cosmetic film is almost unsustained: △
Changed, the cosmetic film is not sustained at all: ×

  As is apparent from the results in Table 1, the foundation cosmetics of Examples 1 to 8 related to the present invention are all of smoothness of smoothness, moist feeling, powder foundation makeup film persistence, and liquid foundation makeup film persistence. The item was excellent. On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 to 4 using pentaerythritol rosinate, dextrin, dextrin palmitate, or (palmitic acid / octanoic acid) dextrin instead of dextrin isostearate, powder foundation or liquid foundation makeup to be used later The film persistence was poor.

Example 9: Oil-in-water control base cosmetic (component) (%)
(1) Water remaining amount (2) Hydrogenated lecithin 1.5
(3) Cholesterol 0.1
(4) Glycerin 5
(5) BG 7
(6) Macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl * 52
(7) Cetyl ethylhexanoate 1.2
(8) (Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone) copolymer * 6 0.5
(9) Dimethicone * 7 3
(10) Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 3
(11) Dextrin fatty acid ester 1 of Reference Production Example 1
(12) Isostearic acid 0.6
(13) Lauroyl glutamate di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl) * 8 0.6
(14) Water proper amount (15) PEG-400 1.2
(16) Carbomer 1.5
(17) Arginine 0.16
(18) Na hydroxide 0.16
(19) Water proper amount (20) Ethanol 7
(21) Methylparaben 0.2
(22) PVP 0.6
(23) Synthetic phlogopite 5
(24) Methyl methacrylate cross polymer 1
(25) Zinc oxide 0.5
(26) Silica 0.1
(27) Iron oxide 0.1
(28) Talc 3
* 5: YOFCO MAS [Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.]
* 6: KSG-16 [manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical]
* 7: Silicon KF-96 (6CS) [Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.]
* 8: El Dew PS-203 [Ajinomoto Co., Inc.]

(Production method)
1: Disperse components 1 to 5 with a disper and heat to 70 ° C. Add components 6 to 13 to 2: 1 and mix 3: heat components 14 to 15 to 70 ° C. Add 2 to 4: 3, Add component 16-22 to 5: 4 to be emulsified and mix evenly 6: 5 cool 7: Add component 23-28 at 45 ° C and mix uniformly 8: 7 cool to room temperature and take out

  The obtained oil-in-water control base cosmetic had good moist feeling, smoothness of the stop, and good makeup film persistence of the foundation to be used later.

Claims (5)

The following components (a) and (b);
(A) An esterified product of dextrin and a fatty acid, wherein the dextrin has an average polymerization degree of glucose of 3 to 150, and the fatty acid is one or more of branched saturated fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms. More than 50 mol% and not more than 100 mol%, linear saturated fatty acid having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched unsaturated fatty acid having 6 to 30 carbon atoms and cyclic saturated or unsaturated having 6 to 30 carbon atoms A dextrin fatty acid ester containing 0 mol% or more and less than 50 mol% of one or more selected from the group consisting of fatty acids and having a degree of substitution of fatty acids per glucose unit of 1.0 to 3.0 (B) An oil-in-water base cosmetic comprising an oil agent.   The oil-in-water base cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the branched saturated fatty acid of component (a) is one or more branched saturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The oil-in-water base makeup according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (a) does not have a gelling ability of liquid paraffin having a kinematic viscosity at 40 ° C of 8 mm ² / s according to ASTM D445 measurement method. Fee.   A light fluid isoparaffin solution containing 40% by mass of component (a) was formed into a film on a glass plate with an applicator having a thickness of 400 μm, and a dried film was subjected to a load of 100 g using a texture analyzer, and after holding for 10 seconds, the weight was reduced to 0. The oil-in-water type base cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a load change (maximum stress value) applied to the contact point when separated at 5 mm / second is 30 to 1000 g.   A cosmetic method comprising using a powder cosmetic after using the oil-in-water base cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4.