JP2010173948A - Oily cosmetic - Google Patents
Oily cosmetic Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP2010173948A JP2010173948A JP2009016134A JP2009016134A JP2010173948A JP 2010173948 A JP2010173948 A JP 2010173948A JP 2009016134 A JP2009016134 A JP 2009016134A JP 2009016134 A JP2009016134 A JP 2009016134A JP 2010173948 A JP2010173948 A JP 2010173948A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- mass
- powder
- silica
- oily
- cosmetic
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 78
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
本発明は化粧料に関し、更に詳細には粉体を含有する油性化粧料に関する。 The present invention relates to a cosmetic, and more particularly to an oily cosmetic containing a powder.
メークアップ化粧料は、粉体の隠蔽力、着色力、光拡散作用などの光学効果を利用して、肌のトラブルなどを隠したり、肌色を美しく見せたりする化粧料である。メークアップ化粧料には、この様な光学効果故に、その仕上がりにおいては、自然な見え方から乖離する傾向が存し、これを是正する手段の開発が望まれていた。この様なニーズを背景に、カバー力を二酸化チタンや酸化亜鉛などに依存させずに、チタンマイカやチタンセリサイトに依存させることで、これらの有する干渉光を利用して、自然なツヤを付与する方法や、二酸化チタンなどの隠蔽感をシリカなどの拡散透過性を有する粉体の拡散・乱反射作用を利用して和らげる方法などが開発された（例えば、特許文献１、特許文献２、特許文献３を参照）。しかしながら、これらの方法に於いて、不自然さは改善されたが、その一方で、みずみずしさといった外観の美しさにまでには至っていなかった。 Makeup cosmetics are cosmetics that hide skin troubles and make skin colors look beautiful by utilizing optical effects such as powder hiding power, coloring power, and light diffusion. Because of such optical effects, makeup cosmetics tend to deviate from their natural appearance in the finish, and development of means for correcting this has been desired. Against the backdrop of such needs, by making the covering power not dependent on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, but relying on titanium mica or titanium sericite, natural interference is imparted using the interference light they have. And a method of relieving the concealing feeling of titanium dioxide or the like by using the diffusion / diffuse reflection action of a powder having diffusion permeability such as silica (for example, Patent Document 1, Patent Document 2, Patent Document) 3). However, in these methods, the unnaturalness has been improved, but on the other hand, it has not reached the beauty of appearance such as freshness.
一方、ポイントメークアップ化粧料に於いては、効果がはっきりした光学効果が望まれており、パール光沢粉体などがその目的で多用されている。かかるパール光沢粉体としては、マイカなどの薄い板状の粉体に、二酸化チタンなどの微粒子の金属酸化物の被膜を形成させ、該被膜の干渉により、光沢を出させたり、エポキシ樹脂等の樹脂の薄片を何層にも積層し、層間の干渉作用により光沢を現出させたりしているものが知られている。しかしながら、パール光沢粉体の光学的効果とみずみずしさ、ツヤ感といった外観の美的効果を併せ持つ化粧料は望まれているものの、油剤との相性、粉体の含有量等の課題から、期待される効果は十分ではなかった。 On the other hand, in point makeup cosmetics, an optical effect with a clear effect is desired, and pearly luster powder is often used for that purpose. As such pearly luster powder, a fine metal oxide film such as titanium dioxide is formed on a thin plate-like powder such as mica, and gloss is produced by interference of the film, such as epoxy resin. It is known that multiple layers of resin flakes are laminated and gloss is revealed by the interference action between the layers. However, although cosmetics having both the optical effect of pearly luster powder and the aesthetic effects of appearance such as freshness and luster are desired, it is expected due to issues such as compatibility with oils and powder content. The effect was not enough.
外観上、みずみずしい感じを示す化粧料として、球状の多孔質粉体で屈折率の低い少なくとも２種の表面処理剤で、屈折率の低い順に順次処理している球状多孔質粉体が知られており（例えば、特許文献４）、固形粉体化粧料に於いて、かかる粉体を含有させることにより、みずみずしい演色効果を発現することが知られている。しかしながら、かかる粉体は油性成分の多い系では、油性成分により表面処理に起因する光学効果が減じられるため、この様な演色効果は得難く、この様な系での使用は避けられてきた。従って、粉体４０乃至９０質量％と粉体含有量が高く、油性成分１０乃至２５質量％とを含有する化粧料において、少なくとも2種の表面処理を順次施した単分散シリカであって、少なくとも2種の表面処理剤による被膜が外側に向かうほど屈折率が低いものであるシリカを含有する油性化粧料が、みずみずしい感じを示すとともに、粉体固形化粧料とオイルゲル固形化粧料の中間領域に属する粉体含有化粧料となることは知られていなかったし、その様な期待もされていなかった。加えて、かかる化粧料にパール光沢粉体を含有させることにより、前述の効果に加え、パール光沢粉体の光学効果を顕著に示すことは知られていなかった。 Known as cosmetics that have a refreshing appearance in appearance, spherical porous powder, which is a spherical porous powder and is processed sequentially in order of decreasing refractive index with at least two kinds of surface treatment agents having a low refractive index, is known. It has been known that, for example, Patent Document 4 discloses that a solid color cosmetic material exhibits a fresh color rendering effect by containing such powder. However, in such a powder-rich system, the optical effect due to the surface treatment is reduced by the oil component, so that such a color rendering effect is difficult to obtain, and use in such a system has been avoided. Therefore, in a cosmetic containing 40 to 90% by mass of powder and high powder content and 10 to 25% by mass of oil component, it is monodispersed silica that has been subjected to at least two types of surface treatments, Oil-based cosmetics containing silica, whose refractive index decreases as the coating with the two surface treatment agents goes outward, show a fresh feeling and belong to the middle region between powder solid cosmetics and oil gel solid cosmetics It was not known to become a powder-containing cosmetic, and no such expectation was made. In addition, it has not been known that by adding pearly luster powder to such cosmetics, the optical effect of the pearly luster powder is remarkably exhibited in addition to the aforementioned effects.
本発明は、この様な状況下為されたものであり、油性成分と粉体成分とを多く含む化粧料において、みずみずしさ、ツヤ感と言った光学効果を付与する技術を提供することを課題とする。 The present invention has been made under such circumstances, and it is an object of the present invention to provide a technique for imparting optical effects such as freshness and gloss in cosmetics containing a large amount of oily components and powder components. And
この様な実状に鑑みて、本発明者らは、化粧料に用いることの出来る組成物を求めて、鋭意研究努力を重ねた結果、１）粉体４０乃至９０質量％と、２）油性成分１０乃至２５質量％とを含有する、言わば、粉体化粧料とオイルゲル化粧料の中間に位置する、粉体と、油性成分とをともに多く含有する化粧料に、少なくとも2種の表面処理を順次施した単分散シリカであって、少なくとも2種の表面処理剤による被膜が外側に向かうほど屈折率が低いものであるシリカを含有させることにより、この様な光学効果の付与が為しうることを見いだし、発明を完成させるに至った。即ち、本発明は、以下に示すとおりである。
＜１＞１）粉体４０乃至９０質量％と、２）油性成分１０乃至２５質量％とを含有する化粧料であって、少なくとも2種の表面処理を順次施した単分散シリカであって、少なくとも2種の表面処理剤による被膜が外側に向かうほど屈折率が低いものであるシリカを含有することを特徴とする、油性化粧料。
＜２＞前記シリカの被覆が外側に向かい、アクリル酸アルキルコポリマー、トリメトキシシリルジメチコンの順に被覆されている、シリカ−アクリル酸アルキルコポリマー−トリメトキシシリルジメチコンの層構造を有することを特徴とする、＜１＞に記載の油性化粧料。
＜３＞前記少なくとも2種の表面処理を順次施した単分散シリカの含有量は、０．０１〜１．０質量％であることを特徴とする、＜１＞又は＜２＞に記載の油性化粧料。
＜４＞粉体として、パール剤を３０乃至５０質量％含有することを特徴とする、＜１＞〜＜３＞何れか記載の油性化粧料。
＜５＞パール剤の組成として、着色されていても、表面処理されていても良いチタンマイカを１０〜３０質量％含有することを特徴とする、＜１＞から＜４＞何れかに記載の油性化粧料。
＜６＞パール剤の組成として、ガラスフレーク３乃至１０質量％を含有することを特徴とする、＜１＞から＜５＞の何れかに記載の油性化粧料。
＜７＞前記粉体に於いて、前記少なくとも2種の表面処理を順次施した単分散シリカの含有量と、パール剤の含有量の比は、１：３０〜１：１５０であることを特徴とする、＜１＞〜＜６＞何れかに記載の油性化粧料。
＜８＞製造工程において、土練機による混練り工程を有することを特徴とする、＜１＞〜＜７＞何れか１項に記載の油性化粧料。
In view of such a situation, the present inventors have sought for a composition that can be used in cosmetics, and as a result of intensive research efforts, 1) 40 to 90% by mass of powder, and 2) oily components. Sequentially, at least two types of surface treatments are applied to a cosmetic containing 10 to 25% by mass, that is, between powder cosmetic and oil gel cosmetic and containing both powder and an oily component. It is possible to provide such an optical effect by including silica that is a monodispersed silica that has a refractive index that decreases toward the outer side of the coating with at least two kinds of surface treatment agents. It has been found and the invention has been completed. That is, the present invention is as follows.
<1> 1) Cosmetics containing 40 to 90% by mass of powder and 2) 10 to 25% by mass of oil component, monodispersed silica which has been subjected to at least two types of surface treatments, An oily cosmetic comprising a silica having a refractive index that decreases toward the outside of a coating film of at least two kinds of surface treatment agents.
<2> The silica coating has a layered structure of silica-alkyl acrylate copolymer-trimethoxysilyl dimethicone, which is coated in the order of alkyl acrylate copolymer and trimethoxysilyl dimethicone, facing outward. The oily cosmetic according to <1>.
<3> The oil property according to <1> or <2>, wherein the content of the monodispersed silica subjected to the at least two kinds of surface treatments is 0.01 to 1.0% by mass. Cosmetics.
<4> The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <3>, wherein the powder contains 30 to 50% by mass of a pearl agent.
<5> The composition according to any one of <1> to <4>, wherein the composition of the pearl agent contains 10 to 30% by mass of titanium mica that may be colored or surface-treated. Oily cosmetics.
<6> The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <5>, wherein the composition of the pearl agent contains 3 to 10% by mass of glass flakes.
<7> In the powder, the ratio of the content of the monodispersed silica that has been subjected to the at least two types of surface treatments and the content of the pearling agent is 1:30 to 1: 150. The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <6>.
<8> The oily cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <7>, wherein the manufacturing process includes a kneading process using a clay kneader.
本発明によれば、油性成分と粉体成分とを多く含む化粧料において、みずみずしさ、ツヤ感と言った光学効果を付与する技術を提供することができる。 ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the technique which provides the optical effect called freshness and glossiness in the cosmetics which contain many oil-based components and powder components can be provided.
＜１＞本発明の油性化粧料の必須成分である粉体
本発明の油性化粧料は粉体を４０乃至９０質量％、より好ましくは、５０質量％〜６５質量％を含有することを特徴とし、前記粉体中に、化粧料の総量に対して、少なくとも2種の表面処理を順次施した単分散シリカであって、少なくとも2種の表面処理剤による被膜が外側に向かうほど屈折率が低いものであるシリカを必須成分として含有していることを特徴とする。本発明に言う粉体とは、水、油脂、界面活性剤、アルコール類、シリコーン類などの化粧料原料には溶解も透明な性状で分散もしない、有機或いは無機の固形物の総称を意味し、具体的には、カオリン、タルク、マイカ、セリサイト、チタンマイカ、積層樹脂小片（グリッター）、ホウケイ酸Ca/Al、チタンセリサイト、二酸化チタン、酸化鉄、酸化亜鉛、群青、紺青、赤色１０２号、赤色２２６号、黄色４号アルミニウムレーキ、シリカ、アルミナ、珪酸カルシウム、珪酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、炭酸マグネシウム、メチルシロキサン網状重合体、架橋型メチルポリシロキサン樹脂、アクリル酸アルキル樹脂類、ナイロン、シルク、セルロース或いはこれらの複合材料などが例示でき、その形状は、球状、不定形、多孔質状、中空状、繊維状、板状或いは塊状であっても良い。更に、その表面は、シリコーン被覆処理、金属石けん被覆処理、アシルアミノ酸塩被覆処理など、通常知られている表面処理が為されていても良い。
<1> Powder which is an essential component of the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention The oily cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 40 to 90% by mass, more preferably 50% to 65% by mass of powder. The monodispersed silica in which at least two kinds of surface treatments are sequentially applied to the total amount of the cosmetic in the powder, and the refractive index decreases as the coating with the at least two kinds of surface treatments goes outward. It is characterized by containing silica as an essential component. The powder referred to in the present invention is a general term for organic or inorganic solids that are not dissolved or transparent and dispersed in cosmetic raw materials such as water, fats and oils, surfactants, alcohols, and silicones. Specifically, kaolin, talc, mica, sericite, titanium mica, laminated resin pieces (glitter), borosilicate Ca / Al, titanium sericite, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, ultramarine, bitumen, red 102 No., Red No. 226, Yellow No. 4 aluminum lake, silica, alumina, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, methylsiloxane network polymer, cross-linked methylpolysiloxane resin, alkyl acrylate resins, nylon, silk , Cellulose, or a composite material thereof, and the shape is spherical, indeterminate, porous, hollow Fibrous, it may be a plate-like or bulk. Further, the surface may be subjected to a conventionally known surface treatment such as a silicone coating treatment, a metal soap coating treatment, or an acylamino acid salt coating treatment.
前記単分散シリカは、球状の多孔質粉体であって、前記多孔質粉体より屈折率の低い少なくとも２種の表面処理剤で、屈折率の低い順に順次処理してなるものであり、該粉体の基体となる多孔質粉体としては、化粧料で使用されている多孔質粉体であって、球状のものであれば、特段の限定無く基体として用いることが出来る。この様な多孔質球状粉体としては、球状シリカ、球状アルミナ、球状シリカアルミナ、球状炭酸カルシウム、球状炭酸マグネシウムなどが好適に例示できる。かかる基体となる多孔質球状粉体としては、球状シリカが特に好ましい。これは光学的に透明性と拡散性とを程良く兼ね備えているためである。尚、本発明において、「球状」なる言葉は、「角を有せず表面が球面で構成されている」程度の意味であり、真球状の他、楕球状などの歪みを有する構造も許容する。かかる基体となる多孔質球状粉体の大きさとしては、平均粒径が２〜１０μｍのものが好ましく、３〜５μｍのものが特に好ましい。又、粒径の分布としては単分散であることを特徴とする。本発明の単分散シリカは、かかる基体に、該基体より屈折率の低い少なくとも２種の表面処理剤で、屈折率の低い順に順次処理してなることを特徴とするが、かかる表面処理により、基体となっている球状粉体の内側に、前記処理剤が含浸されて、処理され、基体の成分と処理剤のコンプレックスが生じる。かかるコンプレックスは、表面から基体の球状粉体の内部に向かうに従って、その構成成分を段階的に変化させている。これによって表面より内部に向かって屈折率の勾配が形成している。この様な性状を生じさせるのに必要な屈折率の差としては、基体と第一の処理剤、第一の処理剤と第二の処理剤、第ｎの処理剤と第ｎ＋１の処理剤の屈折率のそれぞれの差が０．０１５〜０．３５になるように設定することが好ましい。この様な屈折率に傾斜を付すことの出来る処理剤としては、基体をシリカ（屈折率１．４５）にした場合、ジメチルポリシロキサンやポリエーテル変性メチルポリシロキサン等のシリコーン類、テトラフルオロエチレン、四フッ化エチレン・六フッ化プロピレン共重合、フッ素変性シリコーン等の有機フッ素化合物などが好適に例示でき、中でもシリコーン類を用いることが好ましい。これらの内、シリコーン類に関しては、信越化学株式会社などからの市販品を購入して使用することが出来るし、有機フッ素化合物に関しては、三井フロロケミカル株式会社、ダイキン工業株式会社、ワッカーケミー社等から販売されているものを購入して使用することが出来る。基体をシリカ（屈折率１．４５）にして、２種の処理剤で処理する場合において、アクリル酸アルキルコポリマー、トリメトキシシリルジメチコンの順に被覆されており、シリカ−アクリル酸アルキルコポリマー−トリメトキシシリルジメチコンの層構造を有することが特に好ましい。処理量としては、基体の球状粉体に対して、それぞれ１〜１０質量％処理することが好ましい。かかる処理は、塩化メチレンなどの揮発性溶剤を用いて、１〜５０質量％程度に希釈して、これを攪拌下含浸させ、１００〜２００℃の熱風を送風し、定着させることにより、行うことが好ましい。かくして得られた球状多孔質粉体は、球状多孔質粉体を平面においた場合、平面に対する垂線に対して低角度の入射光での光沢が、高角度の入射光での光沢に比して著しく低い特性を有し、真正面での鏡面反射が少なく、周辺域への鏡面反射が多く、「みずみずしいツヤ感」を発現する特性を有している。かかる本発明の球状多孔質粉体を化粧料に含有させ、前記の特性を発現させるためには、本発明の単分散シリカを、化粧料に対して、０．０１〜１．０質量％、より好ましくは０．０５〜０．５質量％含有させることが好ましい。かかる単分散シリカは市販のものを使用することが出来、ＫＰ５４５（信越化学製）を用いることが出来る。 The monodispersed silica is a spherical porous powder, which is sequentially treated with at least two kinds of surface treatment agents having a refractive index lower than that of the porous powder, in order of decreasing refractive index, The porous powder used as the powder base is a porous powder used in cosmetics and can be used as a base without particular limitation as long as it is spherical. Preferred examples of such porous spherical powder include spherical silica, spherical alumina, spherical silica alumina, spherical calcium carbonate, and spherical magnesium carbonate. As the porous spherical powder serving as the substrate, spherical silica is particularly preferable. This is because it optically has both transparency and diffusibility. In the present invention, the term “spherical” means “no corners and the surface is formed of a spherical surface”, and allows a structure having distortion such as an elliptical shape in addition to a spherical shape. . The size of the porous spherical powder serving as the substrate is preferably an average particle diameter of 2 to 10 μm, particularly preferably 3 to 5 μm. The particle size distribution is monodisperse. The monodispersed silica of the present invention is characterized in that such a substrate is sequentially treated with at least two kinds of surface treatment agents having a refractive index lower than that of the substrate, in order of decreasing refractive index. The processing agent is impregnated on the inside of the spherical powder serving as the substrate and processed to form a complex of the components of the substrate and the processing agent. Such a complex has its constituent components changed stepwise from the surface toward the inside of the spherical powder of the substrate. This forms a refractive index gradient from the surface to the inside. The difference in refractive index necessary to produce such properties is as follows: the substrate and the first treatment agent, the first treatment agent and the second treatment agent, the nth treatment agent and the (n + 1) th treatment agent. It is preferable to set each difference in refractive index to be 0.015 to 0.35. As a treatment agent capable of giving such a refractive index a gradient, when the substrate is made of silica (refractive index 1.45), silicones such as dimethylpolysiloxane and polyether-modified methylpolysiloxane, tetrafluoroethylene, Preferred examples include organic fluorine compounds such as tetrafluoroethylene / hexafluoropropylene copolymer and fluorine-modified silicone, among which silicones are preferably used. Of these, for silicones, commercial products from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. can be purchased and used. For organic fluorine compounds, Mitsui Fluorochemical Co., Ltd., Daikin Industries, Ltd., Wacker Chemie Co., etc. You can purchase and use what is sold by When the substrate is made of silica (refractive index: 1.45) and treated with two kinds of treatment agents, it is coated in the order of alkyl acrylate copolymer and trimethoxysilyl dimethicone. Silica-alkyl acrylate copolymer-trimethoxysilyl It is particularly preferred to have a dimethicone layer structure. As a processing amount, it is preferable to treat 1 to 10% by mass with respect to the spherical powder of the substrate. Such treatment is carried out by diluting to about 1 to 50% by mass using a volatile solvent such as methylene chloride, impregnating it with stirring, blowing hot air at 100 to 200 ° C., and fixing. Is preferred. The spherical porous powder thus obtained has a gloss at a low angle incident light with respect to a normal to the plane when the spherical porous powder is placed on a plane, compared to a gloss at a high angle incident light. It has remarkably low characteristics, has few specular reflections directly in front, has many specular reflections to the surrounding area, and has a characteristic of expressing a “fresh feeling of gloss”. In order to contain the spherical porous powder of the present invention in a cosmetic and express the above-mentioned properties, the monodispersed silica of the present invention is 0.01 to 1.0% by mass relative to the cosmetic, More preferably, it is 0.05 to 0.5 mass%. Commercially available monodispersed silica can be used, and KP545 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical) can be used.
更に、本発明の化粧料に於いては、パール剤を含有することが光学効果上好ましく、かかる場合に於いて、、パール剤として、化粧料に対してチタンマイカを１０乃至３０質量％含有することが好ましい。加えて、ガラスフレークを３乃至１０質量％含有することがより好ましい。かかるチタンマイカ、ガラスフレークは通常化粧料に使用されるものなら特段の制限はなく、表面を有機色素や無機色素で着色したり、ハイドロジェンメチルポリシロキサン焼付、ジメチルポリシロキサン焼付、シリル化処理等の表面処理を施したりして用いることも出来る。この様な着色や表面処理は、粉体全量に対して、１〜５０質量％が好ましい。前記ガラスフレークとしては日本板硝子株式会社より販売されている、ガラスフレークまたは塊状フレークを母材とした上に、金属もしくは金属酸化物をコートした光輝性顔料である、メタシャインＭＣ１０８０ＲＹＳ１、メタシャインＭＣ１０８０ＲＳ、メタシャインＭＣ１０４０ＲＲ、角八魚鱗薄株式会社より販売されている、ポリエチレンテレフタレートとポリメチルメタクリレートの積層フィルムを粉末状に切断した小片である、オーロラフレークバイオレット０．０５、オーロラフレークグリーン０．０１、エンゲルハード社から販売されている、ポリエチレンテレフタレートとポリオレフィン共重合体またはポリメチルメタクリレートの積層末である、ＩグリッターＩＦ４１０１−０．０１、ＩグリッターＩＦ８１０１−０．０１、エンゲルハード社製のリフレクスピンポインツオブパール、リフレクスレイズオブレッド、リフレクスギルディッドゴールドが例示でき、その他、パール剤としてチタン被覆金雲母を用いる場合、プロミネンスシリーズ（トピー工業製）、ジェネスターシリーズ（日本光研工業製）等が好ましく例示できる。
Further, in the cosmetic of the present invention, it is preferable to contain a pearl agent from the viewpoint of optical effect. In such a case, the pearl agent contains 10 to 30% by mass of titanium mica with respect to the cosmetic. It is preferable. In addition, it is more preferable to contain 3 to 10% by mass of glass flakes. Such titanium mica and glass flakes are not particularly limited as long as they are usually used in cosmetics, and the surface is colored with organic dyes or inorganic dyes, hydrogen methylpolysiloxane baking, dimethylpolysiloxane baking, silylation treatment, etc. It can also be used after being surface-treated. Such coloring and surface treatment are preferably 1 to 50% by mass with respect to the total amount of the powder. Metashine MC1080RYS1, Metashine MC1080RS, which are glitter pigments that are sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd. and are coated with metal or metal oxide on glass flakes or bulk flakes as the glass flakes. Metashine MC1040RR, a small piece obtained by cutting a laminated film of polyethylene terephthalate and polymethylmethacrylate into a powder form, sold by Kakuhachi Fish Scale Co., Ltd., Aurora Flakes Violet 0.05, Aurora Flakes Green 0.01, Engel I glitter IF4101-0.01, I glitter IF8101-0.0, which are laminated powders of polyethylene terephthalate and polyolefin copolymer or polymethyl methacrylate, sold by HARD Examples include Reflex Spin Points of Pearl, Reflex Raise of Red and Reflex Gilded Gold manufactured by Engelhard, Inc. In addition, when using titanium-coated phlogopite as a pearling agent, Prominence series (Topy Industries), Genestar series ( Nihon Koken Kogyo) and the like can be preferably exemplified.
＜２＞本発明の油性化粧料の必須成分である油性成分
本発明で言う油性成分としては、炭化水素油、シリコーン油、エステル油などの水とは任意の割合で交わらない有機成分であって、１気圧２５℃の条件で流動性を示す成分の総称を意味する。かかる油性成分しては、通常化粧料で使用可能なものであればよいが、炭化水素、脂肪酸のエステル、ジメチコンなどのシリコーン、高級アルコール、グリセリンのトリ脂肪酸エステル、ジグリセリンのテトラ脂肪酸エステル、トリグリセリンのペンタ脂肪酸エステル、脂肪酸、Ｎ−アシルグルタミン酸のジエステル等が好ましく例示できる。具体的には、例えば、椿油、マカデミアナッツ油、アボカド油、トウモロコシ油、オリーブ油、ナタネ油、ゴマ油、ヒマシ油、サフラワー油、綿実油、ホホバ油、ヤシ油、パーム油、液状ラノリン等のオイル類、流動パラフィン、スクワラン、プリスタン等の炭化水素類、オレイン酸、イソステアリン酸等の脂肪酸類、オレイルアルコール、イソステアリルアルコール、オクチルドデカノール、ホホバアルコール等の高級アルコール等、トリオクタン酸グリセリル、トリオレイン酸グリセリル、トリイソステアリン酸グリセリル、ジイソステアリン酸グリセリルトリオクタン酸トリメチロールプロパン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、ジオクタン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、ジオクタン酸２−ブチル−２−エチル−１，３−プロパンジオール、ジオレイン酸プロピレングリコール、テトラオクタン酸ペンタエリスリチル、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、テトライソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、ノナイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル−１０、デカ（エルカ酸／イソステアリン酸／リシノレイン酸）ポリグリセリル−８、（ヘキシルデカン酸／セバシン酸）ジグリセリルオリゴエステル、ジステアリン酸グリコール（ジステアリン酸エチレングリコール）等の多価アルコール脂肪酸エステル類、イソオクタン酸セチル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、イソステアリン酸ヘキシルデシル、アジピン酸ジイソプロピル、セバチン酸ジ−２−エチルヘキシル、乳酸セチル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ジ−２−エチルヘキサン酸エチレングリコール、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、ジ−２−ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセリン、トリ−２−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリン、トリ−２−エチルヘキサン酸トリメチロールプロパン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、テトラ−２−エチルヘキサン酸ペンタンエリトリット等の合成エステル油類、ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、ジフェニルポリシロキサン等の鎖状ポリシロキサン、オクタメチルシクロテトラシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、ドデカメチルシクロヘキサンシロキサン等の環状ポリシロキサン、アミノ変性ポリシロキサン、ポリエーテル変性ポリシロキサン、アルキル変性ポリシロキサン、フッ素変性ポリシロキサン等の変性ポリシロキサン等のシリコーン油等の油剤類、Ｎ−ラウロイル−Ｌ−グルタミン酸ジ（フィトステリル／オクチルドデシル）、Ｎ−ラウロイル−Ｌ−グルタミン酸ジ（コレステリル／べへニル／オクチルドデシル）、Ｎ−ラウロイル−Ｌ−グルタミン酸ジ（フィトステリル／ べへニル／オクチルドデシル）等のＮ−アシル化グルタミン酸のジエステルなどが例示できる。更に架橋型メチルポリシロキサンが好ましく例示できる。油性成分は化粧料全量に対して、油性成分１０乃至２５質量％含有させることが好ましく、下限以下では本願発明の効果が発揮されず、上限以上ではベタツキ感を感じ使用感が悪くなる。
<2> Oil component which is an essential component of the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention The oil component referred to in the present invention is an organic component which does not intersect with water such as hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, ester oil, etc. It means a general term for components that exhibit fluidity under conditions of 1 atm and 25 ° C. Such oily components can be used as long as they are usually usable in cosmetics, but hydrocarbons, fatty acid esters, silicones such as dimethicone, higher alcohols, glycerin trifatty acid esters, diglycerin tetrafatty acid esters, triglycerides. Preferred examples include glycerin penta-fatty acid ester, fatty acid, N-acyl glutamic acid diester, and the like. Specifically, for example, oils such as coconut oil, macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, palm oil, liquid lanolin, Hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane and pristane, fatty acids such as oleic acid and isostearic acid, higher alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and jojoba alcohol, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl trioleate, Glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl diisostearate trimethylolpropane trioctanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diocta 2-butyl-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol acid, propylene glycol dioleate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, diglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl nonaisostearate-10, deca (erucic acid / Isostearic acid / ricinoleic acid) polyglyceryl-8, (hexyl decanoic acid / sebacic acid) diglyceryl oligoester, polysuccinic acid fatty acid esters such as glycol distearate (ethylene glycol distearate), cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, isostearic acid Hexyldecyl, diisopropyl adipate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, di-2-ethylhexanoate Lenglycol, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, glycerin tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, tetra-2-ethyl Synthetic ester oils such as hexanoic pentane erythritol, chain polysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, and cyclics such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexanesiloxane Silica such as polysiloxane, amino-modified polysiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, fluorine-modified polysiloxane, etc. Oils such as corn oil, N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di ( Examples thereof include diesters of N-acylated glutamic acid such as phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl). Furthermore, a cross-linked methylpolysiloxane can be preferably exemplified. The oil component is preferably contained in an amount of 10 to 25% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The effect of the present invention is not exhibited below the lower limit, and a sticky feeling is felt above the upper limit, resulting in poor usability.
＜３＞本発明の油性化粧料
また、本発明のオイルゲル化粧料は、これら上記の成分以外に通常化粧料で使用される任意成分を発明の効果を損なわない範囲で含有することができる。このような任意成分としては、例えば、塩化ステアリルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ベンザルコニウム、ラウリルアミンオキサイド等のカチオン界面活性剤類、イミダゾリン系両性界面活性剤（２−ココイル−２−イミダゾリニウムヒドロキサイド−１−カルボキシエチロキシ２ナトリウム塩等）、ベタイン系界面活性剤（アルキルベタイン、アミドベタイン、スルホベタイン等）、アシルメチルタウリン等の両性界面活性剤類、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステル類（ソルビタンモノステアレート、セスキオレイン酸ソルビタン等）、ＰＯＥソルビタン脂肪酸エステル類（ＰＯＥソルビタンモノオレエート、モノステアリン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン等）、ＰＯＥソルビット脂肪酸エステル類（ＰＯＥ−ソルビットモノラウレート等）、ＰＯＥグリセリン脂肪酸エステル類（ＰＯＥ−グリセリンモノイソステアレート等）、ＰＯＥ脂肪酸エステル類（ポリエチレングリコールモノオレート、ＰＯＥジステアレート等）、ＰＯＥアルキルエーテル類（ＰＯＥ２−オクチルドデシルエーテル等）、ＰＯＥアルキルフェニルエーテル類（ＰＯＥノニルフェニルエーテル等）、プルロニック型類、ＰＯＥ・ＰＯＰアルキルエーテル類（ＰＯＥ・ＰＯＰ２−デシルテトラデシルエーテル等）、テトロニック類、ＰＯＥヒマシ油・硬化ヒマシ油誘導体（ＰＯＥヒマシ油、ＰＯＥ硬化ヒマシ油等）、ショ糖脂肪酸エステル、アルキルグルコシド等の非イオン界面活性剤類、ポリエチレングリコール、グリセリン、１，３−ブチレングリコール、エリスリトール、ソルビトール、キシリトール、マルチトール、プロピレングリコール、ジプロピレングリコール、ジグリセリン、イソプレングリコール、１，２−ペンタンジオール、２，４−ヘキシレングリコール、１，２−ヘキサンジオール、１，２−オクタンジオール等の多価アルコール類、ベントナイト等の増粘剤、パラアミノ安息香酸系紫外線吸収剤、アントラニル酸系紫外線吸収剤、サリチル酸系紫外線吸収剤、桂皮酸系紫外線吸収剤、ベンゾフェノン系紫外線吸収剤、糖系紫外線吸収剤、２−（２'−ヒドロキシ−５'−ｔ−オクチルフェニル)ベンゾトリアゾール、４−メトキシ−４'−ｔ−ブチルジベンゾイルメタン等の紫外線吸収剤類、エタノール、イソプロパノール等の低級アルコール類、ビタミンＡ又はその誘導体、ビタミンＢ６塩酸塩，ビタミンＢ６トリパルミテート，ビタミンＢ６ジオクタノエート，ビタミンＢ２又はその誘導体，ビタミンＢ１２，ビタミンＢ１５又はその誘導体等のビタミンＢ類、α−トコフェロール，β−トコフェロール，γ−トコフェロール，ビタミンＥアセテート等のビタミンＥ類、ビタミンＤ類、ビタミンＨ、パントテン酸、パンテチン等のビタミン類などが好ましく例示できる。
<3> Oily cosmetics of the present invention The oil gel cosmetics of the present invention can contain, in addition to these components, optional components that are usually used in cosmetics within a range that does not impair the effects of the invention. Examples of such optional components include cationic surfactants such as stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, and laurylamine oxide, imidazoline-based amphoteric surfactants (2-cocoyl-2-imidazolinium hydroxide- 1-carboxyethyloxy disodium salt, etc.), betaine surfactants (alkyl betaine, amide betaine, sulfobetaine, etc.), amphoteric surfactants such as acylmethyltaurine, sorbitan fatty acid esters (sorbitan monostearate, sesquioxide) Sorbitan oleate, etc.), POE sorbitan fatty acid esters (POE sorbitan monooleate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate, etc.), POE sorbite fatty acid esters (POE-sorbite monolaurate, etc.), P E glycerol fatty acid esters (POE-glycerol monoisostearate, etc.), POE fatty acid esters (polyethylene glycol monooleate, POE distearate, etc.), POE alkyl ethers (POE2-octyldodecyl ether, etc.), POE alkyl phenyl ethers ( POE nonylphenyl ether, etc.), Pluronic types, POE / POP alkyl ethers (POE / POP2-decyltetradecyl ether, etc.), Tetronics, POE castor oil / hardened castor oil derivatives (POE castor oil, POE hardened castor oil) Etc.), nonionic surfactants such as sucrose fatty acid ester, alkyl glucoside, polyethylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, erythritol, sorbitol, xylitol, ma Polyhydric alcohols such as tititol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2,4-hexylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, Thickeners such as bentonite, paraaminobenzoic acid UV absorbers, anthranilic acid UV absorbers, salicylic acid UV absorbers, cinnamic acid UV absorbers, benzophenone UV absorbers, sugar UV absorbers, 2- ( UV absorbers such as 2′-hydroxy-5′-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole and 4-methoxy-4′-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, vitamin A or derivatives thereof , Vitamin B6 hydrochloride, vitamin B6 tripalmitate, Vitamin B such as Tamine B6 dioctanoate, Vitamin B2 or derivatives thereof, Vitamin B12, Vitamin B15 or derivatives thereof, Vitamin E such as α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, vitamin E acetate, vitamin D, vitamin Preferred examples include vitamins such as H, pantothenic acid, and pantethine.
本発明の油性化粧料は、粉体化粧料とオイルゲル化粧料の中間的な性質を有する化粧料であるため、これらの成分を、オイルゲル製造に際しての常法、或いは、粉体化粧料製造に際しての常法に従って処理し、製造することは困難である。かかる領域の組成物においては、粉体を予めパルベライザーなどで粉砕した後、油性成分と合わせ、高機械力攪拌装置、例えば、土練機やダブルプラネタリーミキサー或いは高圧ニーダーなどで混練りすることにより得ることができる。本発明の油性化粧料は毛髪用、口唇用、顔面用、ボディ用等に用いることが出来、特に限定はないが、好ましくは顔面用であり、スキンケア、メークアップ化粧料として使用でき、パール剤の光学効果を発揮させることを考慮すると、メックアップ化粧料として用いることが好ましく、特にポイントメークである、アイカラー等に用いることが好ましい。 Since the oily cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic having intermediate properties between powder cosmetics and oil gel cosmetics, these components can be used in conventional methods for producing oil gels or powder cosmetics. It is difficult to process and manufacture according to conventional methods. In the composition in such a region, after the powder is pulverized in advance with a pulverizer or the like, it is combined with the oil component and kneaded with a high mechanical force stirrer such as a kneader, a double planetary mixer or a high pressure kneader. Obtainable. The oily cosmetic of the present invention can be used for hair, lips, face, body and the like, and is not particularly limited, but is preferably for the face and can be used as skin care and makeup cosmetics, and pearl agent In view of exhibiting the optical effect, it is preferably used as a make-up cosmetic, and particularly preferably used for an eye color that is a point makeup.
以下に、実施例を挙げて、本発明について更に詳細に説明を加える。
＜実施例１＞
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples.
<Example 1>
以下に示す処方に従って、本発明の油性化粧料１（実施例１）を調製した。イを練合機で良く撹拌し、その後ロを加え土練機にてよく、混練した。これを減圧下脱泡し、油性化粧料１を調製した。
According to the formulation shown below, the oily cosmetic 1 (Example 1) of the present invention was prepared. A was kneaded well with a kneader, and then added with b and well kneaded with a kneader. This was degassed under reduced pressure to prepare an oily cosmetic 1.
実施例１のＫＰ５４５／ＳＡ単分散シリカをチタンマイカに全量置換したものを比較例１、実施例１のリンゴ酸イソステアリルを１６質量％に増量し、油性成分の合計を２５質量％以上とし、粉体チタンマイカをその分減量したものを比較例２とした。ガラスフレークであるリフレクスピンポイントオブパールを２質量％とし、減量した分をチタンマイカとしたものを実施例２，チタンマイカを９質量％とし、減量分をプロミネンスＳＦとしたものを実施例３とした。
＜試験例１＞
The total amount of KP545 / SA monodispersed silica in Example 1 substituted with titanium mica was increased to 16% by mass of Comparative Example 1, Example 1 isostearyl malate, and the total of oil components was 25% by mass or more. Comparative Example 2 was obtained by reducing the amount of powdered titanium mica by that amount. A glass flake with a reflex spin point of pearl of 2% by mass and a reduced amount of titanium mica in Example 2, a titanium mica of 9% by mass, and a reduced amount of Prominence SF in Example 3. did.
<Test Example 1>
＜試験例１＞
サンプルを測色用のセルに充填し、色彩色差計（コニカミノルタＣＲ４００）で５回測色し、標準白色板に対するΔＥ値を求め、その５回に於ける分散を算出した。結果を表２に示す。これより、本発明の化粧料は分散値が高く、パール光沢の程度が著しいことが判った。ガラスフレークを実施例１から減量した実施例２、チタンマイカを減量した実施例３のパール光沢の程度が実施例１より低いことから、ガラスフレーク、チタンマイカともに特定の範囲以上に含有されることが効果を向上させ、チタンマイカ１０質量％以上、ガラスフレーク３質量％以上含有させることが好ましいことが明かとなった。
<Test Example 1>
The sample was filled in a cell for colorimetry, and the color difference meter (Konica Minolta CR400) was used to measure the color five times to obtain the ΔE value with respect to the standard white plate, and the dispersion at the five times was calculated. The results are shown in Table 2. From this, it was found that the cosmetic of the present invention has a high dispersion value and a remarkable degree of pearly luster. Since the degree of pearly luster of Example 2 in which glass flakes were reduced from Example 1 and Example 3 in which titanium mica was reduced was lower than in Example 1, both glass flakes and titanium mica should be contained in a specific range or more. However, it has become clear that it is preferable to contain 10% by mass or more of titanium mica and 3% by mass or more of glass flakes.
＜試験例２＞
シリコーンラバー上にドクターブレードで３０ミルの厚さにサンプルの薄膜を引き、この薄膜に９０度の方向から光を照射し、２０度、７５度のグロス値を測定しこの差を算出した。結果を表３に示す。これより、本発明の化粧料の化粧膜のグロス値には確度依存性が存し、パール粉体が一定方向に配向していることが判る。リフレクスピンポイントオブパールを減量した実施例２，チタンマイカを減量した実施例３は実施例１より配向性が劣ることから、チタンマイカを１０質量％以上、ガラスフレークを３質量％以上である方がパール剤の光学的効果が高いことが明らかとなった。
<Test Example 2>
A thin film of a sample was drawn to a thickness of 30 mil with a doctor blade on a silicone rubber, and the thin film was irradiated with light from a direction of 90 degrees, and the gloss values of 20 degrees and 75 degrees were measured to calculate this difference. The results are shown in Table 3. From this, it can be seen that the gloss value of the cosmetic film of the cosmetic of the present invention has accuracy dependency, and the pearl powder is oriented in a certain direction. Example 2 in which the amount of reflex spin point of pearl was reduced, Example 3 in which the amount of titanium mica was reduced was inferior to that of Example 1, so that the titanium mica was 10% by mass or more and the glass flake was 3% by mass or more. However, it was revealed that the optical effect of the pearl agent is high.
実施例１のチタンマイカの量を３５質量％又はリフレクスピンポイントオブパールの量を１２質量％とし、増加分をそれぞれＰＳＡタルクを減量して調製したものを実施例４，５とした。これらを用いて試験例１、試験例２の方法と同様に光学的効果を測定した。その結果は実施例４，５のΔＥ値のＳＤはそれぞれ１．２５，１．３２と実施例１より低い値を示し、Δグロス値も０．７，０．８と実施例１より低い結果を示したことから、チタンマイカはパール剤組成において、１０乃至３０質量％、ガラスフレークは３乃至１０質量％程度の範囲であることが、パール剤の光学効果を発揮するのに好ましいことが明らかとなった。 Examples 4 and 5 were prepared by adjusting the amount of titanium mica of Example 1 to 35% by mass or the amount of reflex spin point of pearl to 12% by mass and decreasing the amount of PSA talc. Using these, the optical effects were measured in the same manner as in Test Example 1 and Test Example 2. As a result, the SD of the ΔE values of Examples 4 and 5 are 1.25 and 1.32, respectively, which are lower than those of Example 1, and the Δ gloss values are 0.7 and 0.8 and are lower than those of Example 1. Thus, it is clear that titanium mica is preferably in the range of 10 to 30% by mass and glass flakes in the range of about 3 to 10% by mass in the pearl agent composition, in order to exhibit the optical effect of the pearl agent. It became.
＜試験例３＞
専門パネラー５名を用いて外観上の仕上がりを評価した。評価項目は、みずみずしさであった。みずみずしさは、
評点１：みずみずしさを感じない
評点２：みずみずしさをやや感じる
評点３：みずみずしさが認知できる
評点４：非常にみずみずしい
の基準で評点を付した。結果を出現例数として、表４に示す。これより、本発明の油性化粧料は、みずみずしさを付与する特性を有していることが判る。
<Test Example 3>
The appearance finish was evaluated using five professional panelists. The evaluation item was freshness. The freshness is
Score 1: A score that does not feel freshness 2: A score that feels a little freshness 3: A score that can recognize freshness 4: A very freshness
A score was assigned according to the criteria. The results are shown in Table 4 as the number of appearance examples. From this, it can be seen that the oily cosmetic of the present invention has the property of imparting freshness.
＜参考例＞
オイルゲル化粧料に於ける、多重表面処理単分散シリカの効果を調べた。即ち、下記処方成分を９０℃に加熱し、混合し、しかる後に金皿に流し込み、冷却固化させてオイルゲル化粧料１を得た。オイルゲル化粧料１の多重表面処理単分散シリカをシクロメチコンに置換して、同様に操作して得たオイルゲル化粧料２と「みずみずしさ」「ツヤ感」を比較したがこれら２品の間の差異は感じられなかった。これよりみずみずしい光学効果は油性成分によって減じられることが判明した。
<Reference example>
The effect of multi-surface treated monodispersed silica in oil gel cosmetics was investigated. That is, the following prescription components were heated to 90 ° C., mixed, then poured into a metal pan, cooled and solidified to obtain an oil gel cosmetic 1. Oil gel cosmetic 2 was compared with oil gel cosmetic 2 obtained by substituting cyclomethicone for the multiple surface-treated monodispersed silica of oil gel cosmetic 1, and the difference between these two products. Was not felt. It has been found that the fresher optical effect is reduced by the oil component.
本発明は、油性化粧料として応用できる。
The present invention can be applied as an oily cosmetic.
Claims (8)
The oily cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising a kneading step using a clay kneader in the production process.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2009016134A JP2010173948A (en) | 2009-01-28 | 2009-01-28 | Oily cosmetic |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2009016134A JP2010173948A (en) | 2009-01-28 | 2009-01-28 | Oily cosmetic |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JP2010173948A true JP2010173948A (en) | 2010-08-12 |
Family
ID=42705274
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2009016134A Pending JP2010173948A (en) | 2009-01-28 | 2009-01-28 | Oily cosmetic |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP2010173948A (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2014019688A (en) * | 2012-07-23 | 2014-02-03 | Nippon Menaade Keshohin Kk | Oily liquid sunscreening agent |
-
2009
- 2009-01-28 JP JP2009016134A patent/JP2010173948A/en active Pending
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2014019688A (en) * | 2012-07-23 | 2014-02-03 | Nippon Menaade Keshohin Kk | Oily liquid sunscreening agent |
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