JP2009235655A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a novel woven fabric having black color development characteristics as well as characteristics such as solidity and stretchability. <P>SOLUTION: A blended yarn is composed of a polyester dope-dyed black fiber which is dope-dyed black with a naphthol dye and a wool fiber which is applied with shrink-proof treatment and dope-dyed black. The blended yarn is used as warp. A false twist processed yarn composed of polyester dope-dyed black fiber is used as weft. The woven fabric has excellent color development, specifically black color development, which allows obtaining high-grade student uniforms, men's suits or the like, in which black is used preferably. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven fabric in which polyester fibers and wool fibers are mixed.

  Conventionally, woven fabrics in which polyester fibers and wool fibers are mixed are known and widely used. Such a woven fabric is a mixed woven fabric, which simultaneously embodies the characteristics of both fibers. Specifically, it exhibits excellent color developability and stretchability, and also has a good texture.

Patent Document 1 discloses an example of such a woven fabric. Specifically, there is disclosed a woven fabric using warp yarns pre-dyed wool blend polyester spun yarns and black original polyester yarns false-twisted into weft yarns. According to this document, this fabric is used for school clothes and men's clothes.
JP 2002-161453 A

  Generally, in the woven fabric, the characteristics of the yarn having a large use ratio tend to be greatly reflected in the characteristics of the woven fabric. In particular, the color developability tends to be strong, and it can be said that the color developability of the woven fabric is substantially the same as the color developability of the warp since the woven fabric uses a larger proportion of warp than the weft.

  Examining this point, in the woven fabric, as described above, wool-mixed polyester spun yarn is used for warp. The spun yarn is a blended yarn obtained by passing both pre-dyed (pre-dyed) polyester and wool fibers through a predetermined spinning process.

  According to this document, it is said that a pre-dyeing means is adopted for improving the color developability of the fabric, and a certain improvement in color developability is confirmed by the pre-dye. However, in the spun yarn, the polyester fiber as a constituent fiber is simply dyed with a disperse dye, so that a bright and vivid hue can be reproduced, but there is a natural limit to the reproduction of a deep and deep hue, There are still problems to be applied to uses such as school uniforms and men's clothing where dark and deep hues are preferred.

  An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks and to provide a novel woven fabric that can exhibit properties such as fastness and stretchability as well as black color development. .

  As a result of diligent research to solve the above problems, the present inventors can further improve the black color developability (black color developability) of fabrics by dyeing black polyester fiber using izock dyes. As a result, the inventors have found that this has a great contribution to tailoring high-quality school uniforms, and have reached the present invention.

  That is, the present invention uses a blended yarn of black original polyester fiber pre-dyed black with an izock dye and warp yarn and wool fiber pre-dyed black and dyed as warp. The gist of the present invention is a woven fabric characterized by using false twisted yarn made of black original polyester fiber.

  The fabric of the present invention has not only basic properties such as excellent color developability, stretchability and good texture, but also excellent fastness. Among them, the fabric of the present invention is excellent in color developability, particularly black color developability. For example, if the fabric is applied to uses such as student clothes and men's clothing that favor black, it can be made to have a high-class feeling.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

  The fabric of the present invention is composed of a specific warp and weft.

  In the present invention, a specific blended yarn is used as the warp. This blended yarn is composed of black original polyester fiber and wool fiber.

  The black original polyester fiber refers to a polyester fiber colored black in the fiber production stage. As the polymer constituting the polyester fiber, polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and the like can be used. In the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate is particularly preferable.

  The means for coloring the polymer black is not particularly limited, but at the stage from production of the polymer to fiberization, a black pigment or dye is added, or the polymer is once pelletized. Thereafter, a means of adding a black dye or pigment, mixing with a kneader such as an extruder, and re-pelletizing can be generally employed.

  Examples of the black pigments and dyes described above include conventionally known inorganic pigments such as carbon black, titanium oxide, cadmium sulfide, iron oxide, and chromium oxide, inorganic dyes, azo, phthalocyanine, quinacridone, and dioxazine. Organic pigments and organic dyes such as anthraquinone, perylene, and perinone can also be used. In the present invention, these are used alone or in combination.

  The mass ratio of the black pigment and dye in the fiber may be appropriately determined in consideration of the black color developability of the woven fabric, the spinnability of the yarn, the cost, etc. About 2-5.0 mass% is preferable.

  In addition, the single yarn fineness of the black original polyester fiber is preferably 0.5 to 10.0 dtex, more preferably 1.0 to 5.0 dtex, considering that the fabric of the present invention is intended for clothing.

  In the blended yarn of the present invention, the black original polyester fiber is used as described above, but in the present invention, this fiber is not used as it is, but it is necessary to pre-dye to black with an izock dye from the viewpoint of black color development. .

  The Izok dye is also called naphthol dye or ice dye, and forms an insoluble azo dye on the fiber to achieve the purpose of dyeing. By using this dye, a dark color effect and high fastness can be realized. As a dyeing means, generally, an undercoat made of a coupling component and a developer made of a diazo component are separately applied to the fiber to form an insoluble azo dye on and / or in the fiber. A means for coloring the fibers is preferred.

  In the present invention, since the black original polyester fiber is dyed black with an izock dye in this way, a deep and deep hue can be realized in the fabric. The inventors' research has found for the first time that the realization of this deep and deep hue greatly contributes to the realization of a high-class feeling. This is an effect peculiar to the present invention which cannot be predicted at all from the previously known mixed fabric of polyester fiber and wool fiber.

  On the other hand, as the wool fiber constituting the blended yarn together with the polyester fiber, a known wool fiber can be used. In such wool fibers, the variety can be arbitrarily selected, and the fiber length and single yarn fineness may be appropriately set in consideration of the purpose of use.

  However, the wool fiber in the present invention needs to be anti-shrink processed and dyed in black from the viewpoint of use.

  Known means can be adopted as means for shrink-proofing the wool fibers. For example, after the wool fiber is immersed in a water bath containing an oxidizing agent such as hypochlorite, chlorite, dichloroisocyanurate, potassium permanganate or monopersulfate, a means of coating polyamide epichlorohydrin resin is adopted. it can.

  Note that the shrink-proofing process is not limited to merely suppressing the shrinkage of the wool fibers, but greatly contributes to the improvement of the black color developability of the fabric. Although the details of this principle are unknown, it is presumed that if the wool fiber is shrink-proofed, the affinity for the dye is improved for some reason.

  Moreover, a well-known means can be employ | adopted also as a means to pre-dye black, and an acid dye, an acid mordant dye, etc. can be employ | adopted as a dye to be used.

  In the present invention, a blended yarn composed of two specific fibers is used as a warp. In this case, known means can be adopted as the two-fiber mixing means, and the mixing ratio of the two fibers is not particularly limited, and may be arbitrarily set according to the purpose.

  The thickness of the blended yarn is preferably 10 to 120, more preferably 20 to 60.

  Next, the weft constituting the fabric of the present invention will be described.

  In the present invention, false twisted yarns made of black original polyester fibers are used as wefts. Thereby, stretch property can be provided to the fabric of the present invention. The black original polyester fiber referred to here need only be a polyester fiber colored black in the fiber production stage, and in terms of single yarn fineness, fiber length, cross-sectional shape, etc., the black original polyester in warp It may or may not be the same as the fiber.

  The means for false twisting of the black original polyester fiber is not particularly limited as long as it is a means capable of imparting sufficient crimp to the yarn through the three steps of twisting, heat fixing and untwisting. As for the twisting device essential for the twisting device, either a spinner method or a friction method can be adopted.

  Moreover, this polyester fiber may be dye | stained and it does not specifically limit about the dye to be used. As described above, since the color developability of the woven fabric itself and the color developability of the warp yarn can be said to be substantially the same, the weft yarn may or may not be dyed. It is not always necessary to use the same Izoc dye as in the case of warp. However, wefts rarely affect the color developability depending on the fabric structure even if they are almost equivalent, so it is necessary to use at least black colored polyester fibers as wefts.

  Here, it will be described how to adopt a dyeing method or an original method for coloring the fabric of the present invention.

  When employing a so-called post-dyeing method in which a woven fabric in which polyester fibers and wool fibers are mixed is dyed after weaving, the polyester fibers are usually dyed with a disperse dye, and the wool fibers are dyed with an acid dye or an acid mordant dye. When using a disperse dye, since the dyeing temperature is usually set to 120 to 130 ° C., the wool fiber is easily embrittled by heat. If the wool fiber becomes brittle, the strength of the fabric will naturally decrease. On the other hand, when dyeing at a relatively low temperature (for example, 100 to 120 ° C.) using a carrier in order to prevent embrittlement of wool fibers, the black color developability of the fabric may be reduced. In such a case, after processing, the apparent black color developability can be increased by coating the fabric with a resin having a low refractive index such as a silicone resin or a polyurethane resin, but the decrease in dyeing fastness or the fabric It may induce new problems such as degrading quality.

  In the present invention, for the reasons described above, the woven fabric is colored by dyeing or dyeing. However, although there are various problems in post-dying and resin processing, the present invention does not completely eliminate these problems. Needless to say, such an aspect is included in one embodiment of the present invention.

  The warp yarns constituting the woven fabric have been mainly described above. However, the fibers constituting the warp yarns are not limited to polyester fibers and wool fibers, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Fibers other than these two fibers may be used. Non-two fibers include synthetic fibers such as nylon, acrylic, polyester, and polylactic acid, recycled fibers such as viscose rayon and solvent-spun cellulose fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, natural materials such as cotton, hemp, and natural bamboo. Fiber.

  As described above, the woven fabric of the present invention has a specific configuration and a specific effect, is intended for apparel use, and is particularly suitable for use in student clothes and men's clothes. In the present invention, a simple structure such as flat, twill, and satin is preferable from a complex structure such as a multiple structure as a woven structure from the viewpoint of such use. A woven fabric with an elegant texture and quality can be obtained.

  Similarly, from the viewpoint of use, the woven fabric of the present invention preferably has both stretch properties and good texture. From this point, in the fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to set the warp cover factor represented by the following formula in the range of 15.0 to 25.0.

  In the above warp cover factor, if the value is below 15.0, the stretchability of the fabric tends to be good, but the texture tends to be paper-like and the quality tends to decrease. Yes, not preferred. On the other hand, if it exceeds 25.0, the weft yarn used for expressing the stretch property tends to be strongly restrained by the woven fabric structure point, and as a result, such a weft yarn tends to be difficult to be crimped, which is not preferable.

  Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. In addition, each physical-property value in an Example was measured according to the following measuring means.

(1) Black color developability of the fabric The black color developability of the fabric was evaluated based on the L * value. That is, using a color difference meter “CR-200 (trade name)” manufactured by Konica Minolta Co., Ltd., the L * value was measured three times, and the average value was obtained. Generally, it can be evaluated that the lower the L * value, the higher the black color developability.
(2) Stretchability of woven fabric The stretchability of the woven fabric was evaluated by a sensory test in two stages: ○ (excellent) and × (inferior).
(3) Fastness of woven fabric The fastness of the woven fabric was evaluated by measuring various fastnesses listed below. That is, light fastness was measured according to JIS L0842, sweat fastness was measured according to JIS L0848, friction fastness was measured according to JIS L0849, and dry cleaning fastness was measured according to JIS L0860A. In all cases, the higher the fastness, the higher the grade.

Example 1
After a commercially available black original polyester fiber was made into a sliver by a known spinning means, it was pre-dyed black with an izock dye by the following procedure.

  That is, “Nichromene 1200-2S-L (trade name)” manufactured by Showa Kako Co., Ltd. is used as the under picking agent, and the concentration is 8% owf, and “Nichromemine Black 10G-2S-L (trade name)” is used as the developer. The sliver was stained for 60 minutes at a temperature of 130 ° C. using 8% owf. Next, “Techlite (trade name)” manufactured by Asahi Denka Kogyo Co., Ltd. as a reducing cleaning agent has a concentration of 0.4 g / L, caustic soda as an alkali is 2 g / L, and Asahi Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd. “ The sliver was reduced and washed for 20 minutes at a temperature of 90 ° C. in a bath containing 2 cc / L of “A pole NS (trade name)”. Subsequently, in a bath containing 6% owf of sodium nitrite and 10% owf of acetic acid (90%) as a coupling agent between the undercoat and developer, 30 minutes at a temperature of 105 ° C. At a temperature of 90 ° C. in a bath containing “Techlite (trade name)” 0.2 g / L, Caustic soda 1 g / L and “A pole NS (trade name)” 1 cc / L. Then, it was reduced and washed again for 20 minutes to obtain a black original polyester fiber pre-dyed black with an Izok dye.

  On the other hand, a sliver made of wool fibers was subjected to shrink-proof processing according to known means, and then dyed black in the following procedure.

  That is, “Eriochrome Black T fine disp. 200% (trade name)” manufactured by Huntsman Japan Co., Ltd. as an acid mordant dye is 7% owf, acetic acid is 2% owf as a pH adjuster, and formic acid is 1% owf. In a bath containing 1% owf of 1% owf of ammonium sulfate 1% owf and “Albegar A (trade name)” manufactured by Huntsman Japan Co., Ltd. Dyeing for 1 minute, then lowering the bath temperature to 80 ° C., adding 0.6% owf of potassium dichromate as a complexing agent, raising the bath temperature to 100 ° C. again, and chroming for 30 minutes did. And it is shrink-proof processed by washing for 10 minutes at a temperature of 100 ° C. in a bath containing 1 g / L of “Monogen 170TN (trade name)” manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd. as an active agent. A wool fiber dyed in black was obtained.

  Thereafter, the polyester fiber and the wool fiber were sequentially blended at a mass ratio of 60:40 to obtain a blended single yarn having a thickness of 60 (metric). Then, two such blended single yarns were twisted at a twist number of 115 times / m to obtain a 60th twin yarn blended yarn.

  Next, the above-mentioned blended yarn was used as the warp, and a 170 dtex 48f false twisted yarn made of black original polyester fiber prepared in advance as a weft was used. The warp density was 101 / 2.54 cm, and the weft density was 108/2. A 5 piece satin textured weaving machine was woven at a density of 54 cm. In addition, the mass ratio (polyester fiber: wool fiber) of both fibers in the living machine was 70:30.

  After obtaining the raw machine, this was processed sequentially in the order of hair burning, washing, boiled, dried, set and steamed to obtain the fabric of the present invention. The finished woven fabric had a warp density of 110 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 120 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 21.9.

(Example 2)
As the raw machine density, the warp density is set to 115 / 2.54 cm instead of 101 / 2.54 cm, and the warp density is set to 140 / 2.54 cm instead of 110 / 2.54 cm as the finishing density. A fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the cover factor of the fabric was changed to 25.6 instead of 21.9.

(Comparative Example 1)
A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that disperse dyes were used in place of the Izok dyes when the black original polyester fibers were pre-dyed black.

  That is, “Dianix Black HG-FS (trade name)” manufactured by Daistar Co., Ltd. as the disperse dye is 8% owf, sodium acetate is 2 g / L as the pH adjuster, and 1 g / L of acetic acid is also used as the leveling agent. In a bath containing 1 g / L of “Nikka Sun Salt SN-130 (trade name)” manufactured by Kagaku Co., Ltd., a sliver made of black original polyester fibers was dyed at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 30 minutes. Next, in a bath containing 2 g / L of hydrosulfite sodium as a reducing detergent, 2 g / L of caustic soda as an alkali, and 1 g / L of “Actinol R100 (trade name)” manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Co., Ltd. as an activator. Then, it was subjected to reduction cleaning at a temperature of 80 ° C. for 10 minutes to obtain a black original polyester fiber pre-dyed black with a disperse dye.

(Comparative Example 2)
A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the dyeing of the black original polyester fiber was omitted.

(Comparative Example 3)
A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Comparative Example 1 except that ordinary polyester fiber was used instead of black original polyester fiber.

(Comparative Example 4)
A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a flat yarn made of black original polyester fiber was used as the weft instead of false twisted yarn made of black original polyester fiber.

  The physical property values of the fabrics obtained in the above Examples and Comparative Examples are shown in Table 1 below.

  As is apparent from Table 1, the woven fabric of the present invention was excellent in black color development and excellent in texture and fastness. In particular, the fabric obtained in Example 1 was also excellent in stretchability.

  On the other hand, the woven fabrics according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were inferior in black color development due to the fact that black original polyester fibers were used in the blended yarn as the warp yarn, but dyeing with an izock dye was not employed. . Moreover, in the comparative example 3, since the normal polyester fiber was used instead of the black original polyester fiber, it was similarly inferior to black coloring property.

And since the textile fabric concerning the comparative example 4 employ | adopted the flat yarn as a weft, it lacked the stretch property.

Claims (1)

As warp yarn, blended yarn of black original polyester fiber pre-dyed black with izock dye and wool fiber pre-shrinked and pre-dyed black and made of black original polyester fiber as weft A woven fabric characterized by using false twisted yarn.