JP2008274452A - Jeans having vintage jeans-style appearance and making leg look long - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a pair of vintage jeans-style jeans looking as if reproducing a peculiarity of a condition that the right and left bottoms of jeans turn in the same direction, and twist in an S shape line, and making the legs look long through upward positioning a color pattern of a friction mark near the knee. <P>SOLUTION: This pair of vintage jeans-style jeans 1 with a long-leg style is obtained by changing each of lines of seams 9, 10, 11, and 12 of sides of the jeans 1 to straight seam lines, previously cutting edges of a denim fabric in an S shape curved condition, intentionally open seaming the seam lines in an S shape curved form by sewing the fabric of the edges, showing each the S shape curved seam lines on a front body 3 and a back body 4 of the jeans 1, and setting the S shape curved position a little above a knee position so as to give a visual effect as if a friction mark swelling to be made at the below knee of vintage jeans appears a little above the knee, and make the below-knee look long. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2009,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a jeans having a vintage jeans-like appearance and a long leg of an inseam.

  In jeans pants (so-called jeans, hereafter simply referred to as “jeans”), it is well known that vintage jeans called vintage jeans circulate at high prices due to fashion and rarity. . Vintage jeans differ from the time of manufacture in that they have an worn texture, and the legs of the jeans are kinked from the crotch to the hem. As a result, the seam line of the side seam is around the hem, and the front In many cases, a bulge that protrudes slightly from the front of the knee appears due to bending of the knee, and that portion is often discolored. The kinks on the leg tip side of the jeans rotate in the same direction for both the left and right legs. This is because the right and left legs use twill denim fabric in the same direction.

  By the way, jeans are generally made of denim fabric in which the left front and right front shapes and the left rear and right rear shapes are cut into symmetrical shapes. Although the shape to be cut is symmetrical, the denim fabric used is one type of fabric woven with either the right or left twill, and the texture pattern of the outer material is the right and left of the jeans It is common to the legs. In general, most jeans on the market use denim fabric twill using right twill fabric. The fabric of the right twill is a ridge line on the surface of the fabric, that is, the twill is rising to the left and the twill is flowing obliquely from the upper left to the lower right.

  In general, the pattern of jeans usually consists of two pieces, that is, for the front part of the first half and for the back part of the second half, and the left and right patterns are symmetrical, and the left and right front parts are symmetrical. In addition, the left rear and the right rear are symmetrical. Jeans are made by split-sewing denim fabric cut from these patterns. Each part of this jeans consists of a front sash inside the front pocket, a front pocket bag pocket, a watch drop, and vintage jeans with a watch drop with ears, top buttons and rivets, and a band. Loops to pass through, the body around the front of the jeans, and the back of the zipper, the zipper, the front covering the zipper, the inside name for the back, the waistband at the top of the jeans, the waistband and the back It consists of a backside pattern that consists of a loop that passes the band, and a leather patch, a back pocket, a pismark, and the back body of jeans. The silhouette of the jeans is finished by sewing the body and the back.

  As described above, in a conventional jeans that is cut and sewn with a normal symmetric paper pattern, immediately after manufacture, seams obtained by splitting the front and back fabrics appear straight along the side surfaces of the legs of the jeans. However, these seams have the characteristics that change as follows when worn for many years. That is, it consists of denim of fabric made of right twill or left twill of jeans, but due to secular change due to wearing, for example, in the fabric of general right twill denim, the fabric is kinked in the direction around the right front, As shown in FIG. 4A, the seam 9 on the outer side of the left leg of the jeans 1 can be seen from the front, and the seam 10 on the inner side of the right leg can be seen from the front. Further, as shown in FIG. 4B, the seam 11 on the outer side of the right leg can be seen from the rear, and the seam 12 on the inner side of the left leg can be seen from the rear. In this way, the denim fabric of the leg tip side hem 13 is twisted so as to rotate to the right front side with respect to the ankle. That is, as shown in FIGS. 4 (c) and 4 (d), when this conventional worn jeans is viewed from the side, the side seams 9 and seams 11 are curved and twisted in an S shape. This means that the longer the wearing period of the jeans, the longer it becomes to the state of the seam 9, the seam 10, the seam 11, and the seam 12 in FIG. Yes. As a result, for example, the outer left side seam 9 and the inner left side seam 10 are called toward the leg shin, so that the left outer side seam 9 and the left inner side are slanted from upper left to lower right. A state in which the seam 10 of the part is twisted appears.

  In addition, when wearing jeans for a long period of time, as shown in FIG. 5 (a), the line of the seam 9 indicated by the dotted line on the side of the jeans that was straight at the beginning of wearing immediately after sewing is used. Due to the flexion of the knee, the area around 10-12 cm below the knee is swollen forward as shown by the dotted line as shown in FIG. In many cases, the position b of the atari bulges out in front of the knee and the so-called knee comes off. This bulge causes the upper left to the lower right to bend diagonally forward, and the seam 9 on the outer side of the left leg bulges under the knee. Although not shown, the seam on the inner side of the right leg is curved to follow the bulge below the knee and reaches the hem 13. When the knee was pulled out by curving in this way, the body shape by wearing was exposed, and this exposure situation could not be prevented. In FIG. 5, a seam 9 is between the front body 3 and the back body 4 of the jeans.

  In the so-called bottoms including jeans, various styles have been pursued in search of beauty in the outer shape. For example, a bell-bottom with a wide silhouette was announced in 1969, and slim jeans were announced in 1981 as a silhouette that fits the curve of the body. Thus, fashion of jeans such as straight, flare, and slim has been attempted as silhouettes. In addition, polyurethane is mixed as a material for the fabric, and the boot cut and slim are stretched with a stretchable fabric, making it fit to the legs with a sense of material and bringing a more beautiful line. In addition, designs have been developed in pursuit of comfort, such as darting with draping and switching. In the so-called bottoms including jeans so far, the leg length has mainly been the one that brings about the leg length effect by the silhouette as described above, particularly boot cut.

  By the way, in worn jeans, textures such as fading and discoloration appear in the fabric. In this case, due to the difference in contrast between the white-colored portion rubbed and the portion that remains dark and dark, these colored portions are often referred to as “atari”. This atari appears clearly in the seams of the front and back fabrics, so it is often possible to clearly see the lines of seams that run diagonally under the knee. However, atari also appears in the bulged portion below the knee.

  In addition, many vintage jeans are sewn and processed into a cylindrical shape that fits the legs by splitting the front and back of the body on both sides. This split stitching is a kind of sewing method for fabrics, and is an end-to-end method that breaks the seam allowance after literally sewing. In addition, when finishing with split stitch processing, ears of the applied fabric (Selvich) were often placed on the outer part of the leg so that the end of the denim fabric would not fray. Atari contrast tends to appear more clearly at this seam.

  By the way, jeans tend to be favored with worn textures. However, genuine vintage jeans are used and scarce, so they are limited in quantity and are not readily available to everyone. In addition, there are places where handling is difficult, such as not shrink-proof.

  Thus, attempts have been made to provide jeans that are close to the atmosphere and texture of vintage jeans. In other words, in order to give the jeans a feeling of wear, various washing methods are known that add atari to the surface of the fabric of the jeans in the washing process after sewing, etc. Also, the hand is made with a file. There are known a hand shaving method, a method of pressing and polishing a cloth on a plate on which a wrinkle pattern is formed, and giving a wrinkle pattern (for example, see Patent Document 1). In addition, various methods have been developed to give a sense of wear and wear during the manufacture and production of denim fabric for jeans (see, for example, Patent Documents 2 to 4).

  In addition, it is not related to the atmosphere and texture of jeans, but it is known to develop jeans using a draping technique for the purpose of improving comfort when worn and easy operation with thick jeans. (For example, see Patent Document 5). Certainly, in the draped jeans, the line of the stitching part for sewing the front body and the back body does not always appear straight on the side. However, although they are three-dimensionally cut, they are basically cut by a symmetrical paper pattern. Therefore, the seam line generated in these is completely different from the line caused by the right rotation caused by the denim fabric being right twill, and has an irrelevant line shape.

Japanese Patent Application No. 2000-353302 JP-A-7-173766 JP-A-8-2226035 JP-A-10-77584 Japanese Patent No. 3162077

  By the way, in the past, those with a vintage texture like vintage jeans either give the fabric itself a faint or light shade or give the jeans a physical color pattern after sewing. However, it does not provide an appearance that reproduces the phenomenon that the leg tip is twisted by the right rotation due to the denim fabric of the right twill.

  Further, as shown in FIG. 5 (b), the color pattern due to the bulge caused by the knee flexion or the contrast of the atari is shown at the position b of the atari in the range of 10-12 cm slightly below the knee when the leg is straightened. Appears and this part swells slightly forward. Therefore, it seems that the position of the knee of such a Jeans wearer is located below the actual position in the distance, influenced by the color pattern. This gives the impression that the wearer's knees are short and the length of the entire leg is short, and loses balance as clothing. In this regard, in the case of elastic trousers, there exists a bottom shape that makes the legs look longer by devising the length of the crotch of the bottom (pants) and the thickness of the hem. However, these are also designed with the finish immediately after manufacture in mind, and did not correspond to the phenomenon that the knee length looks short due to the color pattern and swelling generated during use like jeans. Furthermore, if the above-mentioned kinks or bulges are present, for example, in the case of a right twill fabric, when the side seam is kinked to the right, the leg tip is kinked to the right while curving in an S shape. It becomes.

  Therefore, the problem to be solved by the present invention is that the vintage jeans are made to appear as if the left and right hems of the vintage jeans are rotated in the same direction to reproduce the wrinkles that are kinked by the S-shaped line.・ To provide jeans with a jeans-like appearance, and to provide vintage jeans-like jeans that make the leg look like the leg length by positioning the color pattern of the claws near the knee above. is there.

  The means of the present invention for solving the above-mentioned problems is that, in the invention of claim 1, denim is preliminarily replaced by replacing the seam line of seam stitching by side stitching of the jeans with a straight line seam line. The end of the fabric is cut in a state where the fabric is curved in an S-shape, and the fabric of the end curved in the S-shape is sewn, so that the seam line is intentionally split and sewn into an S-shape. A jeans having a vintage jeans-like appearance, characterized in that a seam line curved in an S-shape with split stitches appears on the front and back of the jeans.

  According to a second aspect of the present invention, the line of the seam curved in the S shape is an atari that can be formed below the knee generated in vintage jeans by providing a position curved in the S shape at a position slightly above the knee position. The jeans having a vintage jeans-like appearance according to claim 1, characterized in that it has a visual effect such that a bulge is formed slightly above the knee, and has a leg length that makes the under-knee look long.

  The pattern used for making conventional jeans is symmetrical, and the two patterns for the front and back of the jeans can be turned over and used in common for the left and right sides. It requires a total of 4 paper patterns, one for the front and the other for tailoring jeans, and these paper patterns have S-shapes that are asymmetrical to each other. The denim fabric is cut into four fabrics, front, back, left and right separately, and the resulting fabric is finished by sewing to form one jeans.

  By adopting the above-mentioned means, the present invention reproduces the discoloration of the fabric caused by the secular change due to the wearing of the jeans for many years, the discoloration due to atari and the swelling under the knee by processing such as surface friction after sewing. At the same time, the shape of the side edge of the fabric is cut into an S shape so that the discolored portion of the claws that occur below the knee is located slightly above the knee. Jeans that look like vintage jeans by preventing the actual body shape from appearing exposed on the surface when wearing jeans sewn from this fabric by making the upper bay position above the knee Furthermore, it is a jeans that looks like a vintage jeans with a silhouette of a leg length that has a visual effect of showing the length of the leg of the wearer to the leg length.

  Embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings. First, by curving the seam line at the side edge of the fabric of the present invention into an S-shape, the apparent position (a state in which the knee is removed), which is a visually formed bulge, and the conventional wear The position b of the atari due to wear formed by swelling below the knee in jeans is compared with the position of the wearer's knee plate 15 indicated by the imaginary line 17 with reference to FIG. First, the front body 3 of the jeans 1 will be described with reference to FIG. The position b of the hit by the worn out knee, that is, the swelled forward due to the secular change of the conventional jeans 1 is based on the position from the crotch 2 part to the position of the knee plate 15 indicated by the imaginary line 17 in the height position. Further, the position of the circle shown by a dotted line 10-12 cm below the reference position, and the left outer seam 9 of the left leg and the left inner seam 10 of the right leg caused by aging. The line is curved in an S shape as shown by a dotted line and appears at the front.

  On the other hand, the apparent position “a” of the visually provided atlas of the jeans 1 of the present invention is 10 to 12 cm higher than the position of the knee plate 15 indicating the height position by the virtual line 17, and In order to appear discolored and appear to bulge, the line of the left outer seam 5 and the line of the left inner seam 6 of the left leg of the jeans 1 are respectively from the position a of the atari. Slightly enter the S-shape on the right side at the top, bend to the left at the position of the wearer's knee plate 15, and then flow again downward to the front right and extend to the bottom hem 13 of the jeans 1 while curving it. The lines of the outer seam 5 and the left inner seam 6 are positioned close to the right front side, and the left and right leg sides are crease lines 14 of the fabric.

  Next, the rear body 4 of the jeans 1 will be described with reference to FIG. The seam 11 on the right outer side and the seam 12 on the right inner side due to the secular change of the conventional jeans 1 are located on the leftmost side at the position of the knee back 16 indicating the height position with the virtual line 17 from the inseam 2 portion, as indicated by the dotted line. After entering the bay, it turns further to the right by 10-12 cm below this position, and further curves and extends to the left toward the bottom. On the other hand, in order to make the apparent line provided visually of the jeans 1 of the present invention appear to be located 10-12 cm above the position of the knee sole 16 indicating the height position by the virtual line 17, the jeans 1 After inserting the seam 7 line on the right outer side of the right leg and the seam 8 line on the right inner side of the left leg into the S shape to the left, bend it to the right at the position of the back 16 and then to the left again The seam 7 and the seam 8 are moved to the left side by being curved and extended to the bottom hem 13 of the jeans 1.

  That is, in FIG. 2, (a) shows the left side of the jeans 1 with the vintage jeans tone of the present invention, and (b) shows the right side of the jeans 1 with the vintage jeans tone of the present invention. In these FIG. 2, the S-shaped line on the side indicated by the dotted line shows the left side seam 9 and the right side seam 11 that have changed over time due to long-term use of the conventional jeans 1. By the way, also in this conventional jeans 1, at the beginning of the production of the jeans 1, the seam 9 and the seam 11 indicated by dotted lines were sewn in a straight line on each side portion. However, in the jeans 1 made of denim fabric of right twill due to wearing for many years, the fabric of the left and right legs is twisted to the right side as time goes by, and further below the knee The part indicated by a semicircle in the figure becomes the position b of the atari and bulges out to the front part. Therefore, the line of the seam 9 and the line of the seam 11 indicated by the dotted line at the side of the position b of the under knee in the conventional jeans 1 swell and curve forward of the jeans 1, and the S-shaped seam 9 as a whole. And the line of the seam 11, and the position protruding forward of the curved portion at the top of the S-shape is generated at the height position of the imaginary line 17 of the above-described Atari b.

  On the other hand, in the jeans 1 in the vintage jeans style of the invention of the present application, as described in FIG. 1 above, it is as if it is mistaken for the position b of the worn jeans 1 as shown in FIG. As shown in FIG. 2, the position a of a cloudy atari of a virtual bulge approximately 10 to 12 cm above the position of an imaginary line 17 that is the position of the curved portion at the upper portion of the S-shape of the seam 9 of the conventional worn jeans 1 Sewing is performed by cutting the end portion of the fabric into an S shape so that the upper portion is positioned at the curved portion of the upper portion of the S shape of the seam 5 in the new jeans 1. Similarly, as shown in FIG. 2B, a virtual bulge approximately 10 to 12 cm above the position of the imaginary line 17 which is the position of the curved portion of the S-shaped upper portion of the seam 11 of the conventional worn jeans 1. In the new jeans 1 at the slightly upper portion of the cloudy clam position a, the end of the fabric is cut into an S-shape so as to be the position of the curved portion at the upper portion of the S-shape.

  The jeans 1 usually have 0 to 5 jeans according to the height of the wearer. In this case, the standard is compared with (1): the length from the inseam 2 to the hem 13; (2): the length from the inseam 2 to the center of the knee plate 15; (3): the inseam 2 to the 10 cm below the knee. Length to position b of atari, (4): The length from inseam 2 to atari position a 10 cm above the imaginary knee is sequentially shown.

  In No. 0, (1): 71 cm (28 inches), (2): 32 cm, (3): 42 cm, (4): 22 cm.

  In No. 1, (1): 74 cm (29 inches), (2): 33 cm, (3): 43 cm, (4): 23 cm.

  In No. 2, (1): 76 cm (30 inches), (2): 34 cm, (3): 44 cm, (4): 24 cm.

  In No. 3, (1): 81 cm (32 inches), (2): 36 cm, (3): 46 cm, (4): 26 cm.

  In No. 4, (1): 86 cm (34 inches), (2): 37 cm, (3): 47 cm, (4): 27 cm.

  In No. 5, (1): 91 cm (36 inches), (2): 38 cm, (3): 48 cm, (4): 28 cm.

  The pattern 18 of the main body of the jeans 1 in the vintage jeans style of the present invention has an S-shaped developed shape with different side lines. 3A shows the asymmetrical pattern 18 of the left and right front body 3, and FIG. 3B shows the asymmetrical pattern 18 of the left and right rear body 4, and the skirt portion is indicated by 13. . These four sheets are each composed of an asymmetric side portion, and each side line is composed of an asymmetric S-shaped seam allowance portion. In the production of one jeans, the above-mentioned four asymmetrical patterns 18 are used to cut the fabric so that it becomes a fabric having a twill in the same direction. However, for the front body, the side pocket inside the front pocket, the bag pocket that is the front pocket, the watch drop, vintage jeans, watch drop with ears, top button and rivet, loop through the band, A pair of jeans and a zipper that is worn around the back, a zipper, a front covering the zipper, an inside name for the second half, the waistband at the top of the jeans, and the mountain band that connects the waistband to the back (not shown) ), Leather patches, back pockets, piss marks, and loops that pass the band shall be added and sewn. Therefore, the seam lines on the side portions of the leg portions of the jeans main body that are sewn are formed so that the S-curved portions are all rotated clockwise, for example, in the same direction. With a visual effect that looks like a line of seams formed by.

  Furthermore, in order to give the jeans that have been sewn above a worn-out feeling to the jeans according to the conventional method, various washing methods and manual files that give attachment to the surface of the jeans fabric in the washing process after sewing, etc. By creating a wrinkle pattern with hand shaving method or other polishing methods that create a faintness, etc., it is completed by artificially forming an atari along the seam line and a discolored part of the atari's cloudiness at the top of the knee Product.

It is a figure which shows the external appearance of the front-back part of the jeans of this invention, (a) is a front part, (b) is the figure seen from the rear part. It is a figure which shows the external appearance of the side part of said jeans of this invention, (a) is a left side part, (b) is the figure seen from the right side part. The four asymmetrical patterns of the jeans body of the present invention, (a) is a pattern on the left and right front, and (b) is a pattern on the left and right. FIG. 2 shows a state where a conventional jeans is aged, (a) is a front view, (b) is a rear view, (c) is a left side view, and (d) is a right side view. It is a figure which shows the wearing condition of the conventional jeans, (a) is a figure immediately after sewing, (b) is a figure after a secular change.

Explanation of symbols

1 Jeans 2 Inseam 3 Front body 4 Rear body 5 Left outer seam of left leg 6 Left inner seam of right leg 7 Right outer seam 8 Right inner seam 9 Left outer left seam 10 Left inner left leg 11 Seam on the right outer side 12 Seam on the right inner side 13 Hem 14 Mountain fold line 15 Knee plate 16 Knee back 17 Virtual line 18 Pattern paper a Atari position b Atari position

Claims (2)

  Instead of the seam line of seam by split stitching on the side surface of jeans, the seam line of a linear line, the end of the fabric is cut in a state where the denim fabric is curved in an S shape in advance, and this S curve is curved By sewing the fabric at the end, the seam line was intentionally split into an S-shaped curve, and the seam line curved into the S-shape of the split seam appeared on the front and back of the jeans. A jeans with a vintage jeans-like appearance characterized by the above.   The S-curved seam line has a slightly curved bulge below the knee that occurs in vintage jeans by providing the S-curved line at a position slightly above the knee position. 2. The jeans having a vintage jeans-like appearance according to claim 1, wherein the jeans have a leg-like tone that gives a visual effect as if it has been formed upward, and show the length below the knee.

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