JP2008231585A - Method for producing moisture permeable and waterproof fabric, moisture permeable and waterproof fabric and fibrous product - Google Patents
Method for producing moisture permeable and waterproof fabric, moisture permeable and waterproof fabric and fibrous product Download PDFInfo
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- JP2008231585A JP2008231585A JP2007068323A JP2007068323A JP2008231585A JP 2008231585 A JP2008231585 A JP 2008231585A JP 2007068323 A JP2007068323 A JP 2007068323A JP 2007068323 A JP2007068323 A JP 2007068323A JP 2008231585 A JP2008231585 A JP 2008231585A
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Images
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- Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
- Purses, Travelling Bags, Baskets, Or Suitcases (AREA)
- Synthetic Leather, Interior Materials Or Flexible Sheet Materials (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
Description
本発明は、ソフトな風合いと優れた発色性を呈する、ノンコーティングタイプの透湿防水性織物の製造方法、および該製造方法により製造された透湿防水性織物、および該透湿防水性織物を用いてなる繊維製品に関する。 The present invention relates to a method for producing a non-coating type moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric that exhibits a soft texture and excellent color development, a moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric produced by the production method, and the moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric. It relates to the textile product used.
従来、スポーツ衣料やユニフォーム衣料に使用されている透湿防水性布帛として、織編物等の基布に多孔質または無孔質ポリウレタンをコーティングしたものや、ポリウレタン等の多孔質または無孔質樹脂性フィルムを接着剤によりラミネーションしたものなどが提案されている。多孔質樹脂性薄膜はその孔の大きさにより、また、無孔質樹脂性薄膜は孔が無く吸湿性物質を含有することにより親水性とすることで、雨やその他の水は通さず、湿気(水蒸気)は通すことにより透湿防水性を発現している。 Conventional moisture-permeable and waterproof fabrics used for sports clothing and uniform clothing, such as woven and knitted fabrics coated with porous or nonporous polyurethane, and polyurethane or other porous or nonporous resinous fabrics A film that has been laminated with an adhesive has been proposed. The porous resinous thin film is made hydrophilic by the size of its pores, and the nonporous resinous thin film is made porous by containing a hygroscopic material without pores. (Water vapor) expresses moisture permeability and waterproofness by passing.
これらの透湿防水性布帛では、織編物表面にポリウレタン等の樹脂コーティング、又は、フィルムラミネートされているために、風合いが硬くなり、さらに、製造コストが高くなるという問題があった(例えば、特許文献1参照)。
この問題を解決するために、繊維径が1000nm以下の超極細繊維を用いて織物を織成することにより、コーティングやフィルムラミネート等の加工を必要としない、ノンコーティングタイプの透湿防水性織物を得ることが提案されている(例えば、特許文献2参照)。
In these moisture-permeable and waterproof fabrics, the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is coated with a resin coating such as polyurethane or film laminated, so that there is a problem that the texture becomes hard and the manufacturing cost increases (for example, patents). Reference 1).
In order to solve this problem, a non-coating type moisture permeable waterproof fabric that does not require processing such as coating or film lamination by weaving the fabric using ultrafine fibers having a fiber diameter of 1000 nm or less. It has been proposed to obtain (see, for example, Patent Document 2).
しかしながら、かかる透湿防水性織物では繊維径が細すぎるため、織物に染色加工を施しても染料が繊維内部に十分入らず発色性が不十分という問題があった。
なお、緯二重織物などの二層構造織物を用いて防水性織物を得ることは知られている(例えば、特許文献3参照)。
However, since the fiber diameter of such a moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric is too thin, there is a problem that even if the fabric is dyed, the dye does not sufficiently enter the inside of the fiber and the color developability is insufficient.
In addition, it is known to obtain a waterproof fabric using a double-layered fabric such as a weft double fabric (for example, see Patent Document 3).
本発明は上記の背景に鑑みなされたものであり、その目的は、ソフトな風合いと優れた発色性を呈する、ノンコーティングタイプの透湿防水性織物およびその製造方法および繊維製品を提供することにある。 The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned background, and an object thereof is to provide a non-coating type moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric that exhibits a soft texture and excellent color development, a method for producing the fabric, and a textile product. is there.
本発明者らは上記の課題を達成するため鋭意検討した結果、二層構造織物の表層(外気側)に単糸繊維繊度が0.1dtex以上のマルチフィラメントを配し、一方裏層(肌側)に繊維径が1000nm以下の超極細繊維を配すことにより、所望のソフトな風合いと優れた発色性を呈する、ノンコーティングタイプの透湿防水性織物が得られることを見出し、さらに鋭意検討を重ねることにより本発明を完成するに至った。 As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have arranged a multifilament having a single yarn fiber fineness of 0.1 dtex or more on the surface layer (outside air side) of the two-layer structure fabric, while the back layer (skin side) )), It is possible to obtain a non-coating type moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric that exhibits a desired soft texture and excellent color development by arranging ultra-fine fibers with a fiber diameter of 1000 nm or less. The present invention was completed by overlapping.
かくして、本発明によれば「表層用の繊維として単糸繊維繊度が0.1dtex以上のマルチフィラメントを用い、一方裏層用の繊維として島成分と海成分とからなり島成分の径が10〜1000nmである海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメントを少なくとも用いて二層構造織物を製織した後、前記の海成分をアルカリ水溶液で溶解除去することを特徴とする透湿防水性織物の製造方法。」が提供される。 Thus, according to the present invention, "a multifilament having a single yarn fiber fineness of 0.1 dtex or more is used as a surface layer fiber, while an island component having a diameter of 10 to 10 is composed of an island component and a sea component as a back layer fiber. A method for producing a moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric, comprising weaving a two-layered fabric using at least a sea-island type composite fiber multifilament having a thickness of 1000 nm and then dissolving and removing the sea component with an alkaline aqueous solution. " Is done.
その際、表層用の繊維として用いられるマルチフィラメントがポリエステルで形成されることが好ましい。また、前記の島成分がポリエステルで形成されることが好ましい。また、表層用の繊維として、単糸繊維繊度が0.1dtex以上のマルチフィラメントのみを用いることが好ましい。また、前記の二層構造織物が緯二重組織を有することが好ましい。 In that case, it is preferable that the multifilament used as a fiber for surface layers is formed with polyester. Moreover, it is preferable that the said island component is formed with polyester. Further, it is preferable to use only multifilaments having a single yarn fiber fineness of 0.1 dtex or more as the surface layer fibers. Moreover, it is preferable that the said two-layer structure textile has a weft double structure.
本発明の透湿防水性織物の製造方法において、海成分をアルカリ水溶液で溶解除去した後、さらに該二層構造織物に撥水加工を施すことが好ましい。また、二層構造織物に撥水加工を施した後、さらに裏層側表面にカレンダー加工を施すことが好ましい。 In the method for producing a moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the two-layer fabric is further subjected to a water-repellent treatment after the sea component is dissolved and removed with an alkaline aqueous solution. Moreover, it is preferable to perform a calendar process on the back layer side surface after the water-repellent process is performed on the two-layer structure fabric.
また、本発明によれば、前記の製造方法により得られた透湿防水性織物が提供される。かかる透湿防水性織物において、カバーファクターCFが2500〜5500の範囲内であることが好ましい。 Moreover, according to this invention, the moisture-permeable waterproof fabric obtained by the said manufacturing method is provided. In such a moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric, the cover factor CF is preferably in the range of 2500 to 5500.
また、前記の透湿防水性織物において、耐水圧が1000mmH20以上であることが好ましい。また、通気度が2cc/cm2・sec以下であることが好ましい。また、透湿度が4000g/m2/24h以上であることが好ましい。また、織物表面の撥水性が3級以上であることが好ましい。 Further, in the moisture-permeable waterproof fabric, it is preferred that water pressure is 1000mmH 2 0 or more. The air permeability is preferably 2 cc / cm 2 · sec or less. Moreover, it is preferable that a water vapor transmission rate is 4000 g / m < 2 > / 24h or more. Moreover, it is preferable that the water repellency of the fabric surface is tertiary or higher.
また、本発明によれば、前記の透湿防水性織物を用いてなる、スポーツウェア、アウトドアウェア、レインコート、紳士衣服、婦人衣服、作業衣、防護服、人工皮革、履物、鞄、カーテン、防水シート、カーシートの群より選ばれる繊維製品が提供される。 Further, according to the present invention, sportswear, outdoor wear, raincoat, men's clothing, women's clothing, work clothing, protective clothing, artificial leather, footwear, bags, curtains, comprising the moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric described above. A textile product selected from the group of waterproof sheets and car seats is provided.
本発明によれば、優れた防水性能と透湿性能とを兼ね備え、ソフトな風合いと優れた発色性を呈する、ノンコーティングタイプの透湿防水性織物およびその製造方法および繊維製品が得られる。 ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the non-coating type moisture-permeable waterproof textile which has the outstanding waterproof performance and moisture-permeable performance, and exhibits a soft texture and the outstanding color development property, its manufacturing method, and textiles are obtained.
以下、本発明の実施の形態について詳細に説明する。
まず、本発明の透湿防水性織物の製造方法において、表層(使用する際に外気側に位置する層)用の繊維として単糸繊維繊度が0.1dtex以上(好ましくは、0.25〜2.5dtex)のマルチフィラメントを用いる。該単糸繊維繊度が0.1dtexよりも小さいと、染色加工の際に染料が繊維内部に入りにくいため発色性が損われ好ましくない。また同時に、該単糸繊維繊度が0.1dtexよりも小さいと、織物の耐摩耗性も低下するおそれがある。逆に、該単糸繊維繊度が2.5dtexよりも大きいと、ソフトな風合いが得られないおそれがある。
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
First, in the method for producing a moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric of the present invention, the single yarn fiber fineness is 0.1 dtex or more (preferably, 0.25 to 2) as the surface layer (layer located on the outside air side when used). .5 dtex) multifilament. If the single yarn fiber fineness is less than 0.1 dtex, the dye is difficult to enter the fiber during the dyeing process, and the color developability is impaired. At the same time, if the single yarn fiber fineness is less than 0.1 dtex, the abrasion resistance of the fabric may be lowered. On the other hand, if the single yarn fiber fineness is larger than 2.5 dtex, a soft texture may not be obtained.
前記マルチフィラメントの総繊度(単糸繊維繊度とフィラメント数との積)およびフィラメント数としては、ソフトな風合いを得る上でそれぞれ、総繊度20〜150dtex、単糸数22〜200本の範囲であることが好ましい。単糸繊維の断面形状には制限はなく、通常の円形断面のほかに三角、扁平、くびれ付扁平、十字形、六様形、あるいは中空形などの異型断面形状であってもよい。 The total fineness of the multifilament (the product of the single yarn fiber fineness and the number of filaments) and the number of filaments are within the range of a total fineness of 20 to 150 dtex and a single yarn number of 22 to 200, respectively, in order to obtain a soft texture. Is preferred. The cross-sectional shape of the single yarn fiber is not limited, and may be an irregular cross-sectional shape such as a triangular shape, a flat shape, a constricted flat shape, a cross shape, a hexagonal shape, or a hollow shape in addition to a normal circular cross section.
前記マルチフィラメントの繊維形状としては、長繊維であれば特に限定はなく、通常の延伸糸、通常の仮撚捲縮加工が施された仮撚捲縮加工糸や、通常の空気加工が施された空気加工糸、さらには、2種以上の構成糸条を空気混繊加工や複合仮撚加工させた複合糸であってもよい。なかでも、ソフトな風合いを得る上で仮撚捲縮加工糸が好ましい。 The fiber shape of the multifilament is not particularly limited as long as it is a long fiber, and a normal drawn yarn, a false twisted crimped yarn subjected to a normal false twist crimped processing, or a normal air processing is applied. Further, it may be an air processed yarn, or a composite yarn obtained by subjecting two or more kinds of constituent yarns to air mixed fiber processing or composite false twist processing. Of these, false twisted crimped yarn is preferable in obtaining a soft texture.
前記マルチフィラメントの繊維種類としては、ポリエステル、ナイロン、アクリルなどの合成繊維が好ましく、特にポリエステル繊維が好ましい。ポリエステル繊維はジカルボン酸成分とジグリコール成分とから製造される。ジカルボン酸成分としては、主としてテレフタル酸が用いられることが好ましく、ジグリコール成分としては主としてエチレングリコール、トリメチレングリコール及びテトラメチレングリコールから選ばれた1種以上のアルキレングリコールを用いることが好ましい。また、ポリエステル樹脂には、前記ジカルボン酸成分及びグリコール成分の他に第3成分を含んでいてもよい。該第3成分としては、カチオン染料可染性アニオン成分、例えば、ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸;テレフタル酸以外のジカルボン酸、例えばイソフタル酸、ナフタレンジカルボン酸、アジピン酸、セバシン酸;及びアルキレングリコール以外のグリコール化合物、例えばジエチレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール、ビスフェノールA、ビスフェノールスルフォンの1種以上を用いることができる。かかるポリエステルとしては、ポリ乳酸などの生分解性を有するポリエステル、マテリアルリサイクルまたはケミカルリサイクルされたポリエステルであってもよい。さらには、特開2004−270097号公報や特開2004−211268号公報に記載されているような、特定のリン化合物およびチタン化合物を含む触媒を用いて得られたポリエステルでもよい。 The fiber type of the multifilament is preferably a synthetic fiber such as polyester, nylon or acrylic, and particularly preferably a polyester fiber. The polyester fiber is produced from a dicarboxylic acid component and a diglycol component. As the dicarboxylic acid component, terephthalic acid is preferably used mainly, and as the diglycol component, it is preferable to use one or more alkylene glycols selected from ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol and tetramethylene glycol. Moreover, the polyester resin may contain a third component in addition to the dicarboxylic acid component and the glycol component. Examples of the third component include cationic dye dyeable anion components such as sodium sulfoisophthalic acid; dicarboxylic acids other than terephthalic acid such as isophthalic acid, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid; and glycol compounds other than alkylene glycol. For example, one or more of diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, bisphenol A, and bisphenol sulfone can be used. Such polyester may be biodegradable polyester such as polylactic acid, material recycled or chemically recycled polyester. Furthermore, the polyester obtained using the catalyst containing the specific phosphorus compound and titanium compound which are described in Unexamined-Japanese-Patent No. 2004-270097 and 2004-21268 may be sufficient.
繊維を形成する樹脂中には、必要に応じて、艶消し剤(二酸化チタン)、微細孔形成剤(有機スルホン酸金属塩)、着色防止剤、熱安定剤、難燃剤(三酸化二アンチモン)、蛍光増白剤、着色顔料、帯電防止剤(スルホン酸金属塩)、吸湿剤(ポリオキシアルキレングリコール)、抗菌剤、その他の無機粒子の1種以上が含まれていてもよい。 In the resin forming the fiber, a matting agent (titanium dioxide), a fine pore forming agent (organic sulfonic acid metal salt), an anti-coloring agent, a heat stabilizer, a flame retardant (antimony trioxide), if necessary. , A fluorescent brightening agent, a coloring pigment, an antistatic agent (sulfonic acid metal salt), a hygroscopic agent (polyoxyalkylene glycol), an antibacterial agent, and other inorganic particles may be contained.
本発明の透湿防水性織物の製造方法において、裏層(使用の際、肌側に位置する層)用の繊維として島成分と海成分とからなり島成分の径が10〜1000nmである海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメントとしては、特開2007−2364号公報に開示された海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメント(島数100〜1500)が好ましく用いられる。 In the method for producing a moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric of the present invention, a sea island having an island component diameter of 10 to 1000 nm comprising an island component and a sea component as a fiber for a back layer (a layer located on the skin side in use). As the type composite fiber multifilament, the sea-island type composite fiber multifilament (the number of islands: 100 to 1500) disclosed in JP 2007-2364 A is preferably used.
すなわち、海成分ポリマーとしては、繊維形成性の良好なポリエステル、ポリアミド、ポリスチレン、ポリエチレンなどが好ましい。例えば、アルカリ水溶液易溶解性ポリマーとしては、ポリ乳酸、超高分子量ポリアルキレンオキサイド縮合系ポリマー、ポリエチレングルコール系化合物共重合ポリエステル、ポリエチレングリコール系化合物と5−ナトリウムスルホン酸イソフタル酸の共重合ポリエステルが好適である。なかでも、5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸6〜12モル%と分子量4000〜12000のポリエチレングルコールを3〜10重量%共重合させた固有粘度が0.4〜0.6のポリエチレンテレフタレート系共重合ポリエステルが好ましい。 That is, as the sea component polymer, polyester, polyamide, polystyrene, polyethylene and the like having good fiber forming properties are preferable. For example, as an easily soluble polymer in an alkaline aqueous solution, polylactic acid, an ultra-high molecular weight polyalkylene oxide condensation polymer, a polyethylene glycol compound copolymer polyester, a copolymer polyester of polyethylene glycol compound and 5-sodium sulfonic acid isophthalic acid may be used. Is preferred. Among them, a polyethylene terephthalate copolymer polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.4 to 0.6 obtained by copolymerizing 6 to 12 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 3 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 4000 to 12000. Is preferred.
一方、島成分ポリマーは、繊維形成性のポリエチレンテレフタレートやポリトリメチレンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリ乳酸、第3成分を共重合させたポリエステルなどのポリエステルが好ましい。該ポリマー中には、本発明の目的を損なわない範囲内で必要に応じて、微細孔形成剤、カチオン染料可染剤、着色防止剤、熱安定剤、蛍光増白剤、艶消し剤、着色剤、吸湿剤、無機微粒子が1種または2種以上含まれていてもよい。 On the other hand, the island component polymer is preferably a polyester such as a fiber-forming polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polylactic acid, or a polyester obtained by copolymerizing a third component. In the polymer, a fine pore forming agent, a cationic dye dyeing agent, an anti-coloring agent, a heat stabilizer, a fluorescent whitening agent, a matting agent, a coloring agent may be added as necessary within the range not impairing the object of the present invention. 1 type (s) or 2 or more types of an agent, a hygroscopic agent, and inorganic fine particles may be contained.
上記の海成分ポリマーと島成分ポリマーからなる本発明の海島型複合繊維は、溶融紡糸時における海成分の溶融粘度が島成分ポリマーの溶融粘度よりも大きいことが好ましい。かかる関係にある場合には、海成分の複合重量比率が40%未満と少なくなっても、島同士が接合したり、島成分の大部分が接合して海島型複合繊維とは異なるものになり難い。 In the sea-island type composite fiber of the present invention comprising the sea component polymer and the island component polymer, the melt viscosity of the sea component during melt spinning is preferably larger than the melt viscosity of the island component polymer. In such a relationship, even if the composite weight ratio of the sea component is less than 40%, the islands are joined together, or the majority of the island components are joined to be different from the sea-island type composite fiber. hard.
次に、島成分の径は、10〜1000nmの範囲とする必要がある。その際、該径は長径と短径との平均を求める。該径が10nm未満の場合には繊維構造自身が不安定で物性や繊維形態が不安定で好ましくなく、一方、1000nmを越える場合には超極細繊維特有のソフトな風合いが得られず好ましくない。 前記の海島型複合繊維において、その海島複合重量比率(海:島)は、40:60〜5:95の範囲が好ましく、特に30:70〜10:90の範囲が好ましい。 Next, the diameter of the island component needs to be in the range of 10 to 1000 nm. At that time, the average of the major axis and the minor axis is obtained as the diameter. When the diameter is less than 10 nm, the fiber structure itself is unstable and the physical properties and fiber form are unstable, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when the diameter exceeds 1000 nm, the soft texture peculiar to ultrafine fibers cannot be obtained. In the sea-island composite fiber, the sea-island composite weight ratio (sea: island) is preferably in the range of 40:60 to 5:95, and particularly preferably in the range of 30:70 to 10:90.
前記の海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメントは、例えば以下の方法により容易に製造することができる。すなわち、前記の海成分ポリマーと島成分ポリマーとを用い溶融紡糸する。溶融紡糸に用いられる紡糸口金としては、島成分を形成するための中空ピン群や微細孔群を有するものなど任意のものを用いることができる。吐出された海島型断面複合繊維マルチフィラメントは、冷却風によって固化され、好ましくは400〜6000m/分で溶融紡糸された後に巻き取られる。得られた未延伸糸は、別途延伸工程をとおして所望の強度・伸度・熱収縮特性を有する複合繊維とするか、あるいは、一旦巻き取ることなく一定速度でローラーに引き取り、引き続いて延伸工程をとおした後に巻き取る方法のいずれでも構わない。かかる海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメントにおいて、単糸繊維繊度、フィラメント数、総繊度としてはそれぞれ単糸繊維繊度0.5〜10.0dtex、フィラメント数5〜75本、総繊30〜170dtexの範囲内であることが好ましい。 The sea-island type composite fiber multifilament can be easily produced, for example, by the following method. That is, melt spinning is performed using the sea component polymer and the island component polymer. As the spinneret used for melt spinning, any one such as a hollow pin group for forming an island component or a group having a fine hole group can be used. The discharged sea-island cross-section composite fiber multifilament is solidified by cooling air, and is preferably wound after being melt spun at 400 to 6000 m / min. The obtained undrawn yarn is made into a composite fiber having desired strength, elongation, and heat shrinkage properties through a separate drawing process, or is taken up by a roller at a constant speed without being wound once, and subsequently drawn. Any of the methods of winding after passing through may be used. In such sea-island type composite fiber multifilament, the single yarn fiber fineness, the number of filaments, and the total fineness are within a range of single yarn fiber fineness of 0.5 to 10.0 dtex, number of filaments of 5 to 75, and total fiber of 30 to 170 dtex, respectively. Preferably there is.
次いで、前記の単糸繊維繊度が0.1dtex以上のマルチフィラメントと、海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメントとを少なくとも用いて二層構造織物を製織する。その際、二層構造織物としては、緯糸のみが表層/裏層に二重になるように配列された緯二重織物、経糸のみが表層/裏層に二重になるように配列された経二重織物、経糸、緯糸とも表層/裏層に二重になるように配列された完全二重織物のいずれでもよいが、製織性の面から緯二重織物のほうが好ましい。かかる二層構造織物は1枚物の織物であることが好ましく、2枚の織物を貼り合せた二層構造織物では風合いが硬くなるおそれがある。 Next, a two-layer fabric is woven using at least the multifilament having a single yarn fiber fineness of 0.1 dtex or more and the sea-island type composite fiber multifilament. At that time, as the two-layer structure fabric, weft double fabric in which only weft yarns are arranged in a double layer on the surface layer / back layer, warp double fabric in which only warp yarns are arranged in a double layer on the surface layer / back layer. The double woven fabric, the warp yarn, and the weft yarn may be any of the complete double woven fabric arranged so as to be double in the surface layer / back layer, but the weft double woven fabric is preferred from the viewpoint of weaving. Such a two-layered woven fabric is preferably a one-piece woven fabric, and there is a risk that the texture may be hard in a two-layered woven fabric in which two woven fabrics are bonded together.
ここで、表層用の繊維として、単糸繊維繊度が0.1dtex以上のマルチフィラメントのみを用いることが好ましい。表層に海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメントが多く現れていると最終的に得られた透湿防水性繊維において、発色性が損われるおそれがある。一方、裏層用の繊維として、前記海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメントだけでなく単糸繊維繊度が0.1dtex以上のマルチフィラメントを用いても差しつかえない。また、裏層用の繊維として、前記海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメントと、単糸繊維繊度が0.1dtex以上のマルチフィラメントとをエアー混繊や複合仮撚などで複合糸としてもよい。その際、熱収縮率を互いに異ならせることは好ましいことである。 Here, it is preferable to use only multifilaments having a single yarn fiber fineness of 0.1 dtex or more as the surface layer fibers. When many sea-island type composite fiber multifilaments appear on the surface layer, the color developability may be impaired in the finally obtained moisture-permeable waterproof fiber. On the other hand, as the fiber for the back layer, not only the sea-island type composite fiber multifilament but also a multifilament having a single yarn fiber fineness of 0.1 dtex or more can be used. Further, as the fiber for the back layer, the sea-island type composite fiber multifilament and the multifilament having a single yarn fiber fineness of 0.1 dtex or more may be used as a composite yarn by air mixed fiber or composite false twist. At that time, it is preferable to make the heat shrinkage rates different from each other.
次いで、製織された二層構造織物にアルカリ水溶液を用いたアルカリ減量加工を施すことにより、前記海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメントの海成分を溶解除去する。海成分を溶解除去することにより、前記海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメントは、単繊維径が10〜1000nm、フィラメント数が島数と、前記海島型複合繊維マルチフィラメントのフィラメント数との積である超極細マルイフィラメントとなる。なお、除去方法は特に限定されず、海成分が完全に溶解除去し得る方法であればいずれの方法で行ってもよい。 Subsequently, the sea component of the sea-island type composite fiber multifilament is dissolved and removed by subjecting the woven two-layer structure fabric to an alkali weight reduction process using an alkaline aqueous solution. By dissolving and removing sea components, the sea-island type composite fiber multifilament has a single fiber diameter of 10 to 1000 nm, the number of filaments is the product of the number of islands and the number of filaments of the sea-island type composite fiber multifilament. It becomes Marui filament. The removal method is not particularly limited, and any method may be used as long as the sea component can be completely dissolved and removed.
かくして得られた透湿防水性織物に撥水加工を施すと織物の耐水圧がさらに向上し好ましい。その際、撥水加工は通常の撥水加工でよく、例えば、フッ素系、シリコン系、ワックス系などの撥水剤を用いた撥水加工が例示される。また、撥水剤をバインダー樹脂とともに織編物に付着させることが、撥水性の耐久性を高める上で好ましい。バインダー樹脂としては、メラミン樹脂、エポキシ樹脂、ウレタン樹脂、アクリル系樹脂などが例示される。 It is preferable to apply a water repellent treatment to the moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric thus obtained, since the water pressure resistance of the fabric is further improved. In this case, the water repellent finish may be a normal water repellent finish, and examples thereof include a water repellent finish using a fluorine, silicon, wax or other water repellent. In addition, it is preferable to attach the water repellent together with the binder resin to the woven or knitted fabric in order to improve the durability of the water repellency. Examples of the binder resin include melamine resin, epoxy resin, urethane resin, acrylic resin, and the like.
また、撥水剤とバインダー樹脂の織編物に対する付着量としては、各々樹脂固形分重量基準で、撥水剤0.01〜40g/m2(より好ましくは1〜10g/m2)、バインダー樹脂0.01〜40g/m2(より好ましくは1〜10g/m2)の範囲が適当である。撥水剤とバインダー樹脂とは、通常両者の配合組成物として織編物に付与される。その際、かかる配合組成物は水系、溶剤系のいずれで構成してもよいが、加工工程の作業環境上水系の方が好ましい。なお、溶剤としては、トルエン、イソプロピルアルコール、ジメチルホルムアミド、メチエチルケトン、酢酸エチルなどが例示される。この配合組成物には、エポキシ系などの架橋剤を併用してもよい。さらに、織編物に対する付着性を向上させる等の目的で適当な添加剤をさらに配合してもよい。 The amount of water repellent and binder resin adhering to the woven or knitted fabric is 0.01 to 40 g / m 2 (more preferably 1 to 10 g / m 2 ) of water repellent, based on the weight of the resin solids. A range of 0.01 to 40 g / m 2 (more preferably 1 to 10 g / m 2 ) is appropriate. The water repellent and the binder resin are usually applied to the woven or knitted fabric as a blended composition of both. In this case, the blended composition may be composed of either an aqueous system or a solvent system, but an aqueous system is preferable in view of the working environment of the processing step. Examples of the solvent include toluene, isopropyl alcohol, dimethylformamide, methyl ethyl ketone, and ethyl acetate. This blended composition may be used in combination with an epoxy-based crosslinking agent. Furthermore, an appropriate additive may be further blended for the purpose of improving adhesion to the woven or knitted fabric.
前記の撥水剤、または撥水剤とバインダー樹脂とを織編物に付着させる方法としては、例えば、パデング法、グラビアロール法、キスロール法、泡加工法、ロータリスクリーン捺染法、フラットスクリーン法、ローラー捺染法等が例示される。 Examples of the method for adhering the water repellent or the water repellent and the binder resin to the woven or knitted fabric include, for example, a padding method, a gravure roll method, a kiss roll method, a foam processing method, a rotary screen printing method, a flat screen method, and a roller. Examples include printing methods.
撥水加工を施した透湿防水性織物にさらにカレンダー加工を施すと、織物の耐水圧がより一層向上し好ましい。その際、カレンダー加工の条件としては、温度140〜200℃、圧力350〜400N/cm程度が適当である。 It is preferable to further calender the moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric that has been subjected to water repellent treatment because the water pressure resistance of the fabric is further improved. At that time, as the calendering conditions, a temperature of 140 to 200 ° C. and a pressure of 350 to 400 N / cm are appropriate.
さらに、本発明の透湿防水性織物の製造方法において、染色加工、起毛加工、吸湿吸水加工、制電加工、抗菌防臭加工、防炎加工、難燃加工、マイナスイオン発生加工など公知の加工が適宜付加されていてもさしつかえない。 Furthermore, in the method for producing a moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric of the present invention, known processes such as dyeing, raising, moisture absorption and absorption, antistatic, antibacterial and deodorant, flameproof, flame retardant, and negative ion generation are available. It may be added as appropriate.
次に、本発明の透湿防水性織物は前記の製造方法により製造された、ノンコーティングタイプの透湿防水性織物である。かかる織物において、表層(使用の際に外気側に位置する層)には、単糸繊維繊度の大きいマルチフィラメントが配されているので優れた発色性を呈する。一方、裏層(使用の際に肌側に位置する層)には、単糸繊維繊度が10〜1000nmと超極細繊維が配されているので、優れた透湿防水性を呈する。また、かかる織物はノンコーティングタイプであるのでソフトな風合いを呈する。また同時に、織物がポリエステルで構成される場合はケミカルまたはマテリアルリサイクルが容易になる。 Next, the moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric of the present invention is a non-coating type moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric manufactured by the above-described manufacturing method. In such a woven fabric, a multi-filament having a large single yarn fiber fineness is arranged on the surface layer (a layer located on the outside air side in use), and thus exhibits excellent color development. On the other hand, since the back layer (the layer located on the skin side in use) has ultrafine fibers having a single yarn fiber fineness of 10 to 1000 nm, excellent moisture permeability and waterproofness are exhibited. Moreover, since this textile fabric is a non-coating type, it exhibits a soft texture. At the same time, chemical or material recycling is facilitated when the fabric is made of polyester.
かかる透湿防水性織物において、織物のカバーファクターCFが2500〜5500の範囲内であることが好ましい。該カバーファクターCFが2500よりも小さいと十分な耐水圧が得られないおそれがある。逆に該カバーファクターCFが5500よりも大きいと製造が困難になるおそれがある。 In such a moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric, the fabric cover factor CF is preferably in the range of 2500 to 5500. If the cover factor CF is smaller than 2500, sufficient water pressure resistance may not be obtained. On the other hand, if the cover factor CF is larger than 5500, the production may be difficult.
ただし、織物のカバーファクターCFは下記のように算出するものとする。
緯二重織物のCF=(DWp/1.1)1/2×MWp+(DWf1/1.1)1/2×MWf1+(DWf2/1.1)1/2×MWf2
[DWpは経糸総繊度(dtex)、MWpは経糸織密度(本/2.54cm)、DWf1は表層の緯糸総繊度(dtex)、MWf1は表層の緯糸織密度(本/2.54cm)、DWf2は裏層の緯糸総繊度(dtex)、MWf2は裏層の緯糸織密度(本/2.54cm)である。]
経二重織物のCF=(DWp1/1.1)1/2×MWp1+(DWp2/1.1)1/2×MWp2+(DWf/1.1)1/2×MWf
[DWp1は表層の経糸総繊度(dtex)、MWp1は表層の経糸織密度(本/2.54cm)、DWp2は裏層の経糸総繊度(dtex)、MWp2は裏層の経糸織密度(本/2.54cm)、DWfは緯糸総繊度(dtex)、MWfは緯糸織密度(本/2.54cm)。]
完全二重織物のCF=(DWp1/1.1)1/2×MWp1+(DWp2/1.1)1/2×MWp2+(DWf1/1.1)1/2×MWf1+(DWf2/1.1)1/2×MWf2
[DWp1は表層の経糸総繊度(dtex)、MWp1は表層の経糸織密度(本/2.54cm)、DWp2は裏層の経糸総繊度(dtex)、MWp2は裏層の経糸織密度(本/2.54cm)、MWf1は表層の緯糸織密度(本/2.54cm)、DWf2は裏層の緯糸総繊度(dtex)、MWf2は裏層の緯糸織密度(本/2.54cm)である。]
However, the cover factor CF of the fabric is calculated as follows.
CF of weft double woven fabric = (DWp / 1.1) 1/2 × MWp + (DWf1 / 1.1) 1/2 × MWf1 + (DWf2 / 1.1) 1/2 × MWf2
[DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), DWf1 is the total weft fineness (dtex) of the surface layer, MWf1 is the weft weave density of the surface layer (main / 2.54 cm), DWf2 Is the total weft fineness (dtex) of the back layer, and MWf2 is the weft weave density of the back layer (lines / 2.54 cm). ]
CF of warp double woven fabric = (DWp1 / 1.1) 1/2 × MWp1 + (DWp2 / 1.1) 1/2 × MWp2 + (DWf / 1.1) 1/2 × MWf
[DWp1 is the total warp fineness (dtex) of the surface layer, MWp1 is the warp weave density of the surface layer (lines / 2.54 cm), DWp2 is the total fineness of warp yarns (dtex) of the back layer, and MWp2 is the warp weave density of the back layer (book / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm). ]
CF of complete double woven fabric = (DWp1 / 1.1) 1/2 × MWp1 + (DWp2 / 1.1) 1/2 × MWp2 + (DWf1 / 1.1) 1/2 × MWf1 + (DWf2 / 1.1) 1/2 x MWf2
[DWp1 is the total warp fineness (dtex) of the surface layer, MWp1 is the warp weave density of the surface layer (lines / 2.54 cm), DWp2 is the total fineness of warp yarns (dtex) of the back layer, and MWp2 is the warp weave density of the back layer (book / 2.54 cm), MWf1 is the weft density of the surface layer (main / 2.54 cm), DWf2 is the total weft fineness (dtex) of the back layer, and MWf2 is the weft density of the back layer (main / 2.54 cm). ]
また、前記の織物において、耐水圧が1000mmH20以上(より好ましくは1500〜6000mmH20)であることが好ましい。また、通気度が2cc/cm2・sec以下(より好ましくは0.05〜1cc/cm2・sec)であることが好ましい。また、透湿度が4000g/m2/24h以上(好ましくは5000〜10000g/m2/24h)であることが好ましい。また、織物表面の撥水性が3級以上(好ましくは5級)であることが好ましい。 Further, in the fabric, it is preferred that water pressure resistance 1000mmH 2 0 or more (more preferably 1500~6000mmH 2 0) is. The air permeability is preferably 2 cc / cm 2 · sec or less (more preferably 0.05 to 1 cc / cm 2 · sec). Moreover, it is preferable that a water vapor transmission rate is 4000 g / m < 2 > / 24h or more (preferably 5000-10000 g / m < 2 > / 24h). Further, the water repellency of the fabric surface is preferably 3 or more (preferably 5).
次に、本発明の繊維製品は、前記の透湿防水性織物を用いてなる、スポーツウェア、アウトドアウェア、レインコート、紳士衣服、婦人衣服、作業衣、防護服、人工皮革、履物、鞄、カーテン、防水シート、カーシートの群より選ばれる繊維製品である。かかる繊維製品には前記の透湿防水性織物が含まれているので、優れた透湿防水性を呈するだけでなく、表層側が優れた発色性を呈し、また同時に裏層側がソフトな風合いを呈する。 Next, the textile product of the present invention is a sportswear, outdoor wear, raincoat, men's clothing, women's clothing, work clothing, protective clothing, artificial leather, footwear, heel, It is a textile product selected from the group of curtains, tarpaulins and car seats. Such a textile product includes the moisture-permeable and waterproof fabric described above, so that it not only exhibits excellent moisture-permeable and waterproof properties, but also exhibits excellent color development on the surface layer side, and simultaneously exhibits a soft texture on the back layer side. .
次に本発明の実施例及び比較例を詳述するが、本発明はこれらによって限定されるものではない。なお、実施例中の各測定項目は下記の方法で測定した。
<溶解速度>海・島ポリマーの各々0.3φ−0.6L×24Hの口金にて1,000〜2,000m/分の紡糸速度で糸を巻き取りし、さらに残留伸度が30〜60%の範囲になるように延伸して、84dtex/24filのマルチフィラメントを作製した。これを各溶剤にて溶解しようとする温度で浴比100にて溶解時間と溶解量から、減量速度を算出した。
<耐水圧>JIS L 1092 B法(低水圧法の静水圧法)に従って測定した。
<通気度>JIS L1096−8.27.1A法により測定した。
<撥水性>JIS L1092−6.2(スプレー法)により測定した。
<透湿度>JIS L 1099 A−1法に従って測定した。
<発色性>試験者3人により目視判定し、「発色性に優れる」「普通」「発色性に劣る」の3段階に評価した。
<風合い>試験者3人により風合いを官能検査し、「ソフトである」、「普通」、「硬い」の3段階に評価した。の
Next, although the Example and comparative example of this invention are explained in full detail, this invention is not limited by these. In addition, each measurement item in an Example was measured with the following method.
<Dissolution rate> Each of the sea and island polymers is wound up at a spinning speed of 1,000 to 2,000 m / min with a 0.3φ-0.6L × 24H die, and the residual elongation is 30-60. % Filaments were drawn to produce 84 dtex / 24 fil multifilaments. The weight loss rate was calculated from the dissolution time and the dissolution amount at a bath ratio of 100 at a temperature at which the solvent was dissolved in each solvent.
<Water pressure resistance> Measured according to JIS L 1092 B method (hydrostatic pressure method of low water pressure method).
<Air permeability> Measured according to JIS L1096-8.27.1A method.
<Water repellency> Measured according to JIS L1092-6.2 (spray method).
<Moisture permeability> Measured according to JIS L 1099 A-1.
<Colorability> Visual evaluation was performed by three testers, and the evaluation was made in three stages: “Excellent color developability”, “Normal” and “Inferior color developability”.
<Texture> Sensory inspection of the texture was performed by three testers, and the evaluation was made into three grades: “soft”, “normal”, and “hard”. of
[実施例1]
島成分としてポリエチレンテレフタレート、海成分として5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸6モル%と数平均分子量4000のポリエチレングリコール6重量%を共重合したポリエチレンテレフタレートを用い(溶解速度比(海/島)=230)、海:島=40:60、島数=500の海島型複合未延伸繊維を、紡糸温度280℃、紡糸速度1500m/分で溶融紡糸して一旦巻き取った。得られた未延伸糸を、延伸温度80℃、延伸倍率2.5倍でローラー延伸し、次いで150℃で熱セットして巻き取った。得られた海島型複合延伸糸は50dtex/10filであり、透過型電子顕微鏡TEMによる繊維横断面を観察したところ、島の形状は丸形状でかつ島の径は520nmであった。
[Example 1]
Using polyethylene terephthalate as the island component, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 6 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 6% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a number average molecular weight of 4000 as the sea component (dissolution rate ratio (sea / island) = 230), A sea-island type composite unstretched fiber having sea: island = 40: 60 and number of islands = 500 was melt-spun at a spinning temperature of 280 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1500 m / min and wound up once. The obtained undrawn yarn was roller-drawn at a drawing temperature of 80 ° C. and a draw ratio of 2.5 times, and then heat-set at 150 ° C. and wound up. The obtained sea-island type composite drawn yarn was 50 dtex / 10 fil and the cross section of the fiber was observed with a transmission electron microscope TEM. As a result, the shape of the island was round and the diameter of the island was 520 nm.
経糸としてポリエチレンテレフタレート仮撚捲縮加工糸33dtex/36fil(帝人ファイバー(株)製)を用い、表面層の緯糸としてポリエチレンテレフタレート仮撚捲縮加工糸33dtex/36fil(帝人ファイバー(株)製)、裏面層の緯糸として上記の海島型複合延伸糸は50dtex/10filを用いて図1に示す織組織(黒丸印のところに緯糸海島型複合延伸糸を配し、それ以外のところに緯糸ポリエチレンテレフタレート仮撚捲縮加工糸33dtex/36filを配した。)により常法の製織により経密度169本/2.54cm、緯密度249本/2.54cmの生機を得た。 Polyethylene terephthalate false twisted crimped yarn 33dtex / 36fil (manufactured by Teijin Fibers Ltd.) is used as the warp, and polyethylene terephthalate false twisted crimped yarn 33dtex / 36fil (manufactured by Teijin Fibers Ltd.) is used as the weft of the surface layer. As the weft of the layer, the above-mentioned sea-island type composite drawn yarn uses 50 dtex / 10 fill, and the weave structure shown in FIG. 1 (the weft sea-island type composite drawn yarn is placed at the black circle mark, and the weft polyethylene terephthalate false twist is placed elsewhere. A crimped yarn of 33 dtex / 36 fil was provided), and a raw machine having a warp density of 169 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 249 yarns / 2.54 cm was obtained by ordinary weaving.
その後、15%のアルカリ減量を施した後、98℃で精錬を行い、130℃にて染色加工を行った。次いで、フッ素系撥水剤溶液にパッドし、ピックアップ率70%で搾液し、130℃で3分間乾燥後170℃で45秒間熱処理を行った後、裏面が金属ロールと接触するようにカレンダー加工を行い、経密度183本/2.54cm、緯密度266本/2.54cmの織物を得た。 Then, after performing 15% alkali weight loss, refining was performed at 98 ° C. and dyeing was performed at 130 ° C. Next, it is padded with a fluorine-based water repellent solution, squeezed at a pick-up rate of 70%, dried at 130 ° C. for 3 minutes, heat-treated at 170 ° C. for 45 seconds, and then calendered so that the back surface is in contact with the metal roll. To obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 183 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 266 / 2.54 cm.
得られた織物において、表面層の発色性も良く、裏面層の風合いもソフトなものであった。また、耐水圧1400mmH2Oで、透湿が6000g/m2/24h、通気度0.2cc/cm2・sec、撥水性が5級であり、非常に良いものであった。
次いで、該織物を用いて表面層が外気側に、裏面層が肌側になるようにスポーツウェア(ウインドブレーカー)を縫製し着用したところ、ソフトな風合いと優れた発色性を呈するものであった。
In the obtained woven fabric, the color development of the front surface layer was good and the texture of the back surface layer was soft. Also, water-resistant pressure 1400mmH 2 O, moisture permeation is 6000g / m 2 / 24h, air permeability 0.2cc / cm 2 · sec, the water repellency was 5 grade, was very good.
Next, when sportswear (windbreaker) was sewn and worn using the woven fabric so that the surface layer was on the outside side and the back layer was on the skin side, it exhibited a soft texture and excellent color development. .
[比較例1]
実施例1において、裏面の緯糸をポリエチレンテレフタレート延伸糸56dtex/36filに変更すること以外は実施例1と同様に実施した。
得られた織物は、発色性も良く、風合いもソフトなものであったが、耐水圧が630mmH2Oで、透湿が6000g/m2/24h、通気度1cc/cm2・sec、撥水性が5級であり、耐水圧が低いものであった。
[Comparative Example 1]
In Example 1, it implemented like Example 1 except having changed the weft of a back surface into the polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn 56dtex / 36fil.
The resulting fabric, color stability, and although the texture was also intended soft, water pressure resistance in 630mmH 2 O, moisture permeation is 6000g / m 2 / 24h, air permeability 1cc / cm 2 · sec, water repellency Was grade 5, and the water pressure resistance was low.
[比較例2]
実施例1において、経糸にポリエチレンテレフタレート仮撚加工糸33dtex/36filを用い、緯糸に海島型複合延伸糸は50dtex/10filを用いて平組織にて製織し、経密度190本/2.54cm、緯密度120本/2.54cmの生機を得、次いで実施例1と同様の加工を行い、経密度211本/2.54cm、緯密度134本/2.54cmの平織物を得た以外は実施例1と同様に行った。
得られた織物は、耐水圧が1300mmH2Oで、透湿が7200g/m2/24h、通気度0.4cc/cm2・sec、撥水性が5級であったが、発色性の悪いものであった。
[Comparative Example 2]
In Example 1, a polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn 33 dtex / 36 fil is used for the warp, and a sea-island type composite drawn yarn is used for the weft 50 tex / 10 fil in a plain structure, warp density 190 / 2.54 cm, weft Example, except that a raw machine with a density of 120 / 2.54 cm was obtained, and then the same processing as in Example 1 was performed to obtain a plain fabric with a warp density of 211 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 134 / 2.54 cm. 1 was performed.
The resulting fabric, water pressure resistance in 1300mmH 2 O, although moisture permeation is 7200g / m 2 / 24h, air permeability 0.4cc / cm 2 · sec, water repellency was grade 5, poor color development property Met.
本発明によれば、ソフトな風合いと優れた発色性を呈する、ノンコーティングタイプの透湿防水性織物およびその製造方法および繊維製品が提供され、その工業的価値は極めて大である。 ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the non-coating type moisture-permeable waterproof fabric which exhibits a soft texture and the outstanding color development property, its manufacturing method, and a textile product are provided, The industrial value is very large.
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JPWO2017094757A1 (en) * | 2015-12-03 | 2018-09-20 | 東レ株式会社 | clothing |
US11104106B2 (en) | 2015-12-03 | 2021-08-31 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Garment |
CN111893770A (en) * | 2020-07-14 | 2020-11-06 | 温州珍瑾服装有限公司 | Waterproof down jacket and processing technology thereof |
CN112195654A (en) * | 2020-09-10 | 2021-01-08 | 江苏华峰超纤材料有限公司 | Composite non-woven fabric for PU synthetic leather and preparation method thereof |
CN112195654B (en) * | 2020-09-10 | 2023-06-30 | 江苏华峰超纤材料有限公司 | Composite non-woven fabric for PU synthetic leather and preparation method thereof |
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