JP2007161661A5 - - Google Patents

Description

The present invention is cosmetic and relates its production how, more particularly, relates to skin aging deep Advanced Glycation End Products (Advanced glycation
The present invention relates to a cosmetic useful for degrading Endproducts and improving aging, and a method for producing the same .

Aging is a phenomenon that humans always meet if they live long, and it is said that early signs have already begun in their 30s or 40s. Aging the skin loses elasticity, the saw eye darkened the skin was fair can not be said to be any way preferable. It is a feeling that everyone wants to be beautiful, and it can be said that development of a means to resist such aging is desired.

Regarding aging, even if it is limited to skin aging, many mechanisms have been proposed, and anti-aging means based on each mechanism have been devised. For example, a result obtained by a method of constructing an experimental model by a method of inducing photoaging by cumulatively irradiating light and screening a component that resists this (see, for example, Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2) Etc. can be exemplified. In such photoaging, it is known that the dermis collagen fibers are ruptured, the dermis collagen fiber bundle structure is broken, and the like, and the dermis elasticity and water retention ability are lost. Method of blending the components to normalize such dermal collagen fiber bundle into the skin external preparation is also that it the stream of development of one of the leading anti-aging external preparation for skin (for example, see Patent Document 3). Another aging mechanism that has attracted attention in recent years is the generation and accumulation of Maillard reaction and subsequent advanced glycation end products (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as AGEs). Such a reaction is a mechanism in which the skin protein is deprived of its function because it oxidatively denatures the skin protein, and this is reflected in various states of aging. It is said that such AGE generation reaction is an irreversible reaction, and once AGEs are generated, they only accumulate thereafter. Although with respect to suppressing the generation of AGEs have been reported various components, for the degradation of AGEs, slightly in olive extracts, Ru der only extracts of Saxifraga stolonifera is known (for example, Patent Document 4, (See Patent Document 5 ). AGEs are products generated as a result of the Maillard reaction. In the Maillard reaction, the amino group and carbonyl group derived from the living body generate a Schiff base by a non-catalytic condensation reaction, and this azomethine bond undergoes the Amadori transition. The AGEs are divided into a reaction and a late stage in which the Amadori rearrangement product undergoes a complex reaction such as dehydration, condensation, cyclization, and cross-linking, and becomes brown, fluorescent, insolubilized to a late product. is there. This AGEs are those that normally hard to decompose by cleaving the C-C bond between the ketone α- diketone structure residing in AGEs, that is known to be decomposed (e.g., Non-Patent Document 1 See ). However, only N-phenacyl thiazolium bromide is known as a component having such a cleavage activity, and this substance is not suitable as a cosmetic component in terms of safety. .

In response to such problems, the present inventors extracted rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) plants with a polar solvent to obtain an extract. If desired, the extract was fractionated, purified, and solvent-removed. In the case where this is contained in cosmetics, a step of incubating the extract with 1-phenyl-1,2-propanedione , confirming the amount of benzoic acid produced , and then incorporating the extract. It has been found that cosmetics manufactured through such processes have such characteristics, and have led to the completion of the invention. That is, the present invention is as follows.
(1) A method for producing a cosmetic, characterized by containing an extract of rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) in the cosmetic,
In an extract obtained by extracting a plant of Rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) with a polar solvent , or a fraction purified product obtained by further fractionating and purifying the extract, 1-phenyl-1,2- confirmed the formation of acid by be propane dione and incubation, select the extract or fraction purified product based on the product, after which the extract or fraction purified product was selected in cosmetics characterized in that it allowed to contain, cosmetics manufacturing how.
(2) plant of the rooibos, characterized in that a leaf, cosmetics manufacturing how described in (1).
(3) characterized in that said polar solvent is water-containing ethanol, (1) or cosmetic manufacturing how described in (2).
(4) The fraction purified product is, the polar solvent is removed from the extract, ethyl acetate and water was added thereafter, and extracted liquid-liquid, take the ethyl acetate phase, the solvent is removed in the ethyl acetate phase characterized in that it was collected using, (1) cosmetics manufacturing how according to any one of - (3).
(5) The amount of benzoic acid produced is 40% or more of the theoretical amount from 1-phenyl-1,2-propanedione, according to any one of (1) to (4), A method for producing cosmetics.
(6) A method for producing a cosmetic, characterized in that an extract of rooibos having the property of degrading advanced glycation end products is contained in the cosmetic.
The selected extract, or fractions purified product, a further, were incubated with A Dobansudo-glycation end Products bovine serum albumin complex, the Advanced glycation end Products bovine serum albumin complex after incubation quantitated as an index of decomposing properties Advanced glycation end products that the constant amount of value is decreased in comparison with the case of absence of the extract or fraction purified product, the the characteristic The production of the cosmetic according to any one of (1) to ( 5) , wherein the extract or the fraction-purified product is selected and the selected extract or the fraction-purified product is contained in the cosmetic. Method.
(7) Extract the leaves of rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) with 50% aqueous ethanol solution, remove the solvent, perform liquid-liquid extraction with ethyl acetate and water, remove the ethyl acetate phase, and fractionate purification by removing the solvent characterized in that it contains an object ^10-4 mass% or more, cosmetics.
(8) It is for disassembling advanced glycation end products.
The cosmetic according to (7).

Cosmetics manufacturing how the present invention, rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) extracts resulting plants was extracted with a polar solvent, or further fractionated extract, fractionation purification obtained was purified in the cosmetic method of manufacturing to contain objects in cosmetics, the extract or incubated fractions purified product and the 1-phenyl-1,2-propane dione, check the amount of acid that generates, accordingly after, it characterized by allowed to contain the extract or fraction purified product cosmetics. The plant part used for the production of the rooibos extract is not particularly limited, and whole plants can be used, but leaves are particularly preferred. Of course, it is also possible to use only parts such as flower ears, flower buds, leaves, stems and roots. In the cosmetic manufacturing how the present invention, extraction include polar solvents as the solvent used, water, alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, ketones such as acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, nitriles such as acetonitrile, diethyl ether Preferred examples include ethers such as benzene and tetrahydrofuran, and esters such as ethyl acetate and methyl formate. These may be used alone or in combination. During extraction, 1 to 10 parts by mass of solvent is added to 1 part by mass of the plant body or processed product, and stirring is optionally added for several days at room temperature and for several hours at temperatures near the boiling point. What is necessary is just to immerse. After soaking, the insoluble matter can be removed by filtration or the like, if necessary, and the solvent can be removed if necessary. In addition, these liquid-liquid extraction, may be a fractionation purified product by using a chromatography with a carrier of ion-exchange resin or silica gel. The extract thus obtained and its fraction purified product are incubated with 1-phenyl-1,2-propanedione, and the amount of benzoic acid produced by cleaving the CC bond of the α-diketone structure is reduced. The α-diketone carbon-carbon cleaving ability is confirmed by quantification. The blending amount into the cosmetic is determined according to this cutting ability. An example of the method for measuring the cutting ability is as follows.

<Measurement of CC bond cleavage ability of α-diketone>
1 ml of 22 mM 1-phenyl-1,2-propanedion / MeOH + 0.1 M phosphate buffer (PH 7.4) and 1 ml of rooibos extract or purified fraction were mixed and reacted at 37 ° C. for 10 hours. The amount of acid was quantified by HPLC.
(HPLC conditions)
Analysis condition detector: UV absorption photometer (measurement wavelength: 260 nm )
Column: Tosoh TSK-ODS80TsQA
Column temperature: Atsushi Muro
Move Doso:
Glacial acetic acid 2 g / acetonitrile 500 ml + edetate sodium solution (1 → 250) 500ml rate: 1 ml / min

<Measurement of glucose-bovine serum albumin AGE resolution>
The materials used are as follows.
AGE-BSA:
Glucose and BSA were incubated over 12 weeks at 37 ℃, P D-10 columns (Amersham Bioscie nc es 17-0851-01) at the exception of the extra glucose ash of primary antibodies:
Anti-Albumin, Bovine Serum , Rabbit-Poly ROCKL AN D 2 01-41331 / 20000
Secondary antibody:
Goat anti-rabbitIGg horseradis h p eroxidase conjugate Bio RA D 1 70-6515 1/10000
Substrate:
TMB solution Wako 546-01911
(procedure)
100 μl of 10 μg / ml AGE-BSA was added to a type I collagen-coated 96-well microplate (Bio Coat 35 4407), (1.0 μg AGE-BSA / well) was left at 37 ° C. for 4 hours, and then 0.05% Wash three times with Tween20 / PBS (−) (shake on a micromixer at room temperature for 3 minutes), add 100 μl of each concentration sample dissolved in PBS (−), and react at 37 ° C. for 10 hours or more. Then, it wash | cleans 3 times by 0.05% Tween20 / PBS (-), 100 microliters / well of primary antibodies are added to each well, and it leaves still at room temperature for 30 minutes. Wash 3 times with 0.05% Tween20 / PBS (−), add 100 μl / well of secondary antibody, and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Wash 3 times with 0.05% Tween20 / PBS (−), add 100 μl / well of TMB, and react at room temperature for 15 minutes. Add 100 μl / well of 1N HCl, stop the reaction, and measure the absorbance at 450 nm. The amount of AGEs was changed, a calibration curve was drawn, and the amount of residual AGEs was quantified from this calibration curve. The AGEs decomposition rate was calculated by subtracting the remaining AGEs from the added AGEs, dividing by the added AGEs, and multiplying by 100.

The cosmetics of the present invention can contain optional components usually used in cosmetics in addition to the rooibos extract or fraction purified product. Such inclusion of optional components may be performed according to a conventional method. Such optional ingredients include, for example, macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, palm oil, liquid lanolin, hydrogenated coconut oil Oil, wax, oil such as beeswax, canola wax, carnauba wax, ibotarou, lanolin, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, jojoba wax, liquid paraffin, squalane, pristane, ozokerite, paraffin, ceresin, petrolatum , Hydrocarbons such as microcrystalline wax; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, undecylenic acid; cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl Higher alcohols such as alcohol, behenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, myristyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol; cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, hexyldecyl isostearate, diisopropyl adipate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, malic acid Diisostearyl, di-2-ethylhexanoic acid ethylene glycol, dicaprate neopentyl glycol, di-2-heptylundecanoic acid glycerin, tri-2-ethylhexanoic acid glycerin, tri-2-ethylhexanoic acid trimethylolpropane, tri Synthetic ester oils such as trimethylolpropane isostearate and pentane erythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate; dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpoly Linear polysiloxanes such as oxane and diphenylpolysiloxane; cyclic polysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexanesiloxane; amino-modified polysiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, Oil agents such as silicone oils such as modified polysiloxanes such as fluorine-modified polysiloxanes; Anionic surfactants such as fatty acid soap (sodium laurate, sodium palmitate, etc.), potassium lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine ether of alkyl sulfates; Cationic surfactants such as stearyltrimethylammonium, benzalkonium chloride and laurylamine oxide; imidazoline-based amphoteric surfactants (2-cocoyl-2-imida Zolinium hydroxide-1-carboxyethyloxy disodium salt, etc.), betaine surfactants (alkyl betaine, amide betaine, sulfobetaine, etc.), and amphoteric surfactants such as acylmethyltaurine; sorbitan fatty acid esters (sorbitan) Monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, etc.), glycerin fatty acids (glyceryl monostearate, etc.), propylene glycol fatty acid esters (propylene glycol monostearate, etc.), hardened castor oil derivatives, glycerin alkyl ethers, POE sorbitan fatty acid esters (POE sorbitan monooleate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate, etc.), POE sorbite fatty acid esters (POE-sorbitol monolaurate, etc.), POE glycerin fatty acid ester Tells (POE-glycerol monoisostearate, etc.), POE fatty acid esters (polyethylene glycol monooleate, POE distearate, etc.), POE alkyl ethers (POE2-octyldodecyl ether, etc.), POE alkyl phenyl ethers (POE nonylphenyl) Ethers, etc.), Pluronic types, POE / POP alkyl ethers (POE / POP2-decyltetradecyl ether, etc.), Tetronics, POE castor oil / hardened castor oil derivatives (POE castor oil, POE hardened castor oil, etc.), Nonionic surfactants such as sucrose fatty acid ester and alkyl glucoside; polyethylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, erythritol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, propylene Polyhydric alcohols such as recall, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2,4-hexanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol; sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate Moisturizing ingredients such as lactic acid and sodium lactate; powders such as mica, talc, kaolin, synthetic mica, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, anhydrous silicic acid (silica), aluminum oxide, barium sulfate, etc. whose surface may be treated Body, the surface may be treated, inorganic pigments such as bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, cobalt oxide, ultramarine, bitumen, titanium oxide, zinc oxide; surface may be treated, mica Pearl agents such as titanium, fish phosphorus foil, bismuth oxychloride; red 202 which may be raked, red Color 228, Red 226, Yellow 4, Blue 404, Yellow 5, Red 505, Red 230, Red 223, Orange 201, Red 213, Yellow 204, Yellow 203, Blue 1 No., Green 201, Purple 201, Red 204, etc .; Organic powders such as polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon powder, organopolysiloxane elastomer; Paraaminobenzoic acid UV absorbers; Anthranils Acid UV absorbers; salicylic acid UV absorbers ; cinnamic acid UV absorbers ; benzophenone UV absorbers; sugar UV absorbers; 2- (2′-hydroxy-5′-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole; UV absorbers such as 4-methoxy-4′-t-butyldibenzoylmethane; lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol Vitamins such as vitamin A or derivatives thereof, vitamin B ₆ hydrochloride, vitamin B ₆ tripalmitate, vitamin B ₆ dioctanoate, vitamin B ₂ or derivatives thereof, vitamin B ₁₂ such as vitamin B ₁₂ , vitamin B ₁₅ or derivatives thereof; Vitamin E such as α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, vitamin E acetate, vitamin D, vitamin H, pantothenic acid, pantethine, pyrroloquinoline quinone and the like; antibacterial agents such as phenoxyethanol are preferred It can be illustrated.

The cosmetic of the present invention, the has been produced according to the production method of the present invention, the extract or fraction purified product of the rooibos, an amount effective in the degradation of AGEs, such as 50% aqueous ethanol solution leaves rooibos in extracting, after removal of the solvent, subjected to liquid-liquid extraction with ethyl acetate and water, take the ethyl acetate phase, ^10-4 contain mass% or more in the case of fractions purified product obtained by removing the solvent It is characterized by. Since the cosmetic of the present invention has an action of decomposing accumulated AGEs, it improves the disappearance of skin elasticity, dullness of skin, decrease in moisturizing ability, etc. caused by accumulation of the AGEs, and is elastic and dull. It can lead to no, fresh skin. Moreover, since it mix | blends after confirming an effect about such an effect, there is no fluctuation | variation of the titer for every lot and it can be set as biochemically stable cosmetics. Usually, in cosmetics containing herbal medicine extracts and the like, the content of the active ingredient varies depending on the lot, place of origin, and season of the herbal medicine, and thus the physiological effect may vary greatly. The physiological potency is stable even in a form containing a herbal extract as an active ingredient.

After cutting 100 g of dried leaves of rooibos (Aspalathus linearis), 500 ml of 50% ethanol aqueous solution was added and heated under reflux for 3 hours. After cooling, insolubles were removed by filtration, and concentrated under reduced pressure. Subsequently, it was freeze-dried to obtain an extract 1. Thereafter, 200 ml of water and 200 ml of ethyl acetate were added to Extract 1 to perform liquid-liquid extraction, and the ethyl acetate phase was collected and concentrated under reduced pressure to obtain Extract 2. Extract 2 was concentrated under reduced pressure, and then fractionated and purified by silica gel column chromatography. That is, wet silica gel in chloroform, and loaded on the column, was charged with the concentrate extract 2 was dissolved in chloroform, chloroform, 1% methanol-containing chloroform, 5% methanol in chloroform, 10% methanol in chloroform, 15 50 ml each of chloroform containing% methanol was flowed in this order, and the effluent was concentrated under reduced pressure.
These fractions were designated as Extract 3, Extract 4, Extract 5, Extract 6, and Extract 7 in this order.

For extract 4, according to the procedure of [0014], the dose of the extract was shaken to measure glucose-bovine serum albumin AGE resolution. The results are shown in Table 2. From this, it can be seen that Extract 4 effectively decomposes AGEs even at 10 ⁻⁴ %. Therefore, a cosmetic containing 10 ⁻⁴ mass % or more of the extract 4 can be said to be a cosmetic of the present invention.

Claims (8)

A method for producing a cosmetic, characterized by containing an extract of rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) in the cosmetic,
In an extract obtained by extracting a plant of Rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) with a polar solvent , or a fraction purified product obtained by further fractionating and purifying the extract, 1-phenyl-1,2- confirmed the formation of acid by be propane dione and incubation, select the extract or fraction purified product based on the product, after which the extract or fraction purified product was selected in cosmetics characterized in that it allowed to contain, cosmetics manufacturing how. Plants of the rooibos, characterized in that a leaf, cosmetics manufacturing how according to claim 1. Wherein said polar solvent is water-containing ethanol, cosmetics manufacturing how according to claim 1 or 2. The fraction purified product is, the polar solvent is removed from the extract, ethyl acetate and water was added thereafter, and extracted liquid-liquid, take the ethyl acetate phase, obtained by removing the solvent The ethyl acetate phase and characterized in that the cosmetic manufacturing how according to any one of claims 1 to 3. The amount of benzoic acid produced is 40% or more of the theoretical amount from 1-phenyl-1,2-propanedione, The production of a cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, Method. A method for producing a cosmetic characterized in that a rooibos extract having a property of degrading advanced glycation end products is contained in the cosmetic,
The selected extract, or fractions purified product, a further, were incubated with A Dobansudo-glycation end Products bovine serum albumin complex, the Advanced glycation end Products bovine serum albumin complex after incubation quantitated as an index of decomposing properties Advanced glycation end products that the constant amount of value is decreased in comparison with the case of absence of the extract or fraction purified product, the the characteristic The method for producing a cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5 , wherein the extract or fraction purified product is selected and the selected extract or fraction purified product is contained in the cosmetic. . Extract the leaves of rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) with 50% aqueous ethanol solution, remove the solvent, perform liquid-liquid extraction with ethyl acetate and water, remove the ethyl acetate phase, and extract 10 fractionated purified products from which the solvent has been removed. Cosmetics characterized by containing ^-4 % by mass or more. The cosmetic according to claim 7, wherein the cosmetic is used for decomposing advanced glycation end products.