JP2006283260A - Method for dyeing lame thread knitted and woven fabric in striped pattern - Google Patents

Method for dyeing lame thread knitted and woven fabric in striped pattern Download PDF

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JP2006283260A
JP2006283260A JP2005128609A JP2005128609A JP2006283260A JP 2006283260 A JP2006283260 A JP 2006283260A JP 2005128609 A JP2005128609 A JP 2005128609A JP 2005128609 A JP2005128609 A JP 2005128609A JP 2006283260 A JP2006283260 A JP 2006283260A
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Kyoji Okabe
恭二 岡部
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for dyeing a fabric knitted and woven out of lame thread in a striped pattern. <P>SOLUTION: In this method, single bath dyeing is carried out by feeding a cationic dye and an aqueous acetic acid solution into a dyebath liquid at first, then well agitating them, and consecutively feeding thereinto an acidic dye or a cold-dye-hot dye for finishing coloration, when the fabric is dyed in a light color. When the fabric is dyed in a deep color, two bath dyeing is carried out by dyeing only the lame thread by the cationic dye and the aqueous acetic acid solution, then replacing the used dyebath liquid with a new liquid in the same amount after discharging the whole of the used liquid, and further dyeing the fabric by using a dye which is applied to nylon thread, namely, the acidic dye or the cold-dye-hot dye. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

本発明は、ラメ糸使用の布地を酢酸とカチオン染料とで溶解した染料液に浸し、過熱とのタイミングにより染色処理を行う方法であって、ラメ糸で編織した布地を間隙状に染色する方法である。  The present invention is a method of immersing a fabric using lame yarn in a dye solution dissolved with acetic acid and a cationic dye, and performing a dyeing process at the timing of overheating, and a method of dyeing a fabric knitted with lame yarn into a gap It is.

従来より、むら染めは、不均一な染色であるので、染色の観点からは商品として殆ど注目されなかった。特にラメ糸にムラ染をして商品にするなどのことは皆無であった、しかし繊維素材は異なるがラメ糸を使用されない編織での大きめの柄紋様即ち紋り染やぼかし染、かご染とか以前から存在している。  Conventionally, uneven dyeing is non-uniform dyeing, and thus has received little attention as a product from the viewpoint of dyeing. In particular, there was no such thing as uneven dyeing of lame yarn to make a product, but a large pattern pattern in a knitting weave that does not use lame yarn although the fiber material is different, such as pattern dyeing, blur dyeing, basket dyeing, etc. Pre-existing.

他方、ラメ糸で編織された布地の染色方法は未だに提案されていない。すなわち、ラメ糸で編織された布地の染色は出来ないものとされて来た、装飾美観のある染色を行うことができず、染色方法は提案されていない。そのため、特に、銀白色のラメ糸で編織された布地は、単に本来の白銀の状態を維持するだけのように処理されている。  On the other hand, a method for dyeing a fabric knitted with lame yarn has not yet been proposed. That is, a fabric knitted with lame yarn cannot be dyed, and it cannot be dyed with a decorative appearance, and no dyeing method has been proposed. Therefore, in particular, the fabric knitted with silvery white lame yarn is treated so as to simply maintain the original white silver state.

そこで、上記課題を解決するために、本発明者は、ラメ糸繊維と塩基性染料(カチオン染料)のそれぞれのイオン化する性質に着目した。すなわち、カチオン染料中の色素本体の分子は、陽イオン(カチオン)であり、ラメ糸の表面上の塩基性基或いはラメ糸の表面上に存在する陰イオンが、電気的引力(クローン力)によって化学的に結合することを見出し、本発明を完成した。  Therefore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor has focused on the ionizing properties of the lame yarn fiber and the basic dye (cationic dye). That is, the molecule of the dye body in the cationic dye is a cation (cation), and the basic group on the surface of the lame yarn or the anion present on the surface of the lame yarn is caused by the electric attractive force (clone force). The present invention was completed by finding a chemical bond.

本発明は、ラメ糸で編織した布地を間隙状に染色する方法であって、次の第1工程乃至第6工程によって実施される。すなわち、本発明の染色方法は、
カチオン染料と酢酸水溶液とを、カチオン染料の酢酸水溶液に対する体積割合が約1/3〜1/4位でよく混合しておき、同時に着色仕上げとしてラメ糸の補強用として撚糸に使われているナイロン又はレーヨンに適応される染料、此の場合はナイロンラメ糸なので酸性染料、もしくは、コールダイホット染料を準備する。第1工程と
染浴液が35℃位になったら前期調整しておいた染料を、それぞれ投入して、よく撹拌して、ラメ糸で編織した布地を投入する第2工程と、
前期染浴液を更に緩やかに昇温し、布地を上記染浴液中で移動反転・振幅させることにより、上記染浴液が該布地に均一に浸透させる急激な温度上昇はさけるよう気を付ける第3工程と、
上記浴温を90℃乃至、95℃温度下で約15分間保持してから加熱を停止すると共に布地をそのまま静止温度下で放置する、又は徐々に自然的に冷却する。 第4工程
濃色仕上げの場合は2浴染がよい上記の第1工程においてカチオン染料と酢酸水溶液とで溶いた染液だけを35℃位になったら投入し、第3工程を経て85℃位になったら温度を停止して布地を取り出し浴液を全部捨て、捨てた量と同量の水を加え、着色仕上として酸性染料もしくはコールダイホット染料を投入し第3工程と第4工程を経る。後も更に昇温し85℃乃至沸点温度下で15分間以上保持する。第5工程
上記一浴の場合も二浴の場合も着色仕上液の加熱を停止するとともに上記布地を該着色仕上液中に静置した状態で室温下において放冷する第6工程とからなることによって出来る、ラメ糸で編織した布地を間隙状に染色する方法。
The present invention is a method for dyeing a fabric knitted with lame yarn into a gap, and is carried out by the following first to sixth steps. That is, the staining method of the present invention comprises:
Nylon that is used in twisted yarns to reinforce lame yarn as a colored finish at the same time that the cationic dye and acetic acid aqueous solution are well mixed in a volume ratio of about 1/3 to 1/4 of the cationic dye to acetic acid aqueous solution. Alternatively, a dye suitable for rayon, in this case a nylon glitter yarn, an acid dye or a cold dye hot dye is prepared. The first step and the second step in which the dye adjusted in the previous period is added when the dye bath reaches about 35 ° C., the mixture is stirred well, and the fabric knitted with lame yarn is added.
Care is taken to prevent the sudden rise in temperature at which the dyebath solution penetrates the fabric evenly by raising the temperature of the dyebath solution more slowly and moving the fabric in the dyebath solution so that it moves and reverses and swings. A third step;
The bath temperature is maintained at 90 ° C. to 95 ° C. for about 15 minutes, and then the heating is stopped, and the fabric is left as it is at a static temperature, or gradually cooled naturally. 4th step In the case of dark finish, 2 bath dyeing is good. In the above 1st step, only the dyeing solution dissolved with the cationic dye and aqueous acetic acid solution is added at about 35 ° C. When the temperature reaches, the temperature is stopped, the fabric is taken out, the bath solution is all discarded, the same amount of water is added, and the acid dye or cold dye hot dye is added as the coloring finish, and the third and fourth steps are performed. . Thereafter, the temperature is further raised and maintained at 85 ° C. to the boiling point for 15 minutes or more. The fifth step comprises the sixth step of stopping the heating of the colored finishing solution in the case of the above-mentioned one bath and of the two baths and allowing the fabric to stand at room temperature while standing in the colored finishing solution. A method of dyeing fabrics knitted with lame yarn into gaps.

本発明の染色方法により、従来から極めて困難とされてきた、ラメ糸で編織した布地を間隙状に染色することが可能となったので、レース編又は織物等の商品として市場向けに開発することが可能となり、ファッション分野の開拓に一躍期待できる。また、間隙状に染色されたラメ糸で編織した布地は、染色として複数種類の原色を使用することができるので、審美性に優れる。このように、本発明は、ファッション分野の開拓に一躍期待できる染色方法を提供することができる。また、本発明の染色方法は、経済的に優れた染色方法であるので、比較的安価で一般的に利用可能なファッション衣料用布地を提供することができる。  With the dyeing method of the present invention, it has become possible to dye a fabric knitted with lame yarn, which has been extremely difficult, so that it can be developed for the market as a product such as lace knitting or woven fabric. Can be expected, and it can be expected to develop the fashion field. In addition, a fabric knitted with lame yarn dyed in a gap shape is excellent in aesthetics since a plurality of kinds of primary colors can be used for dyeing. As described above, the present invention can provide a dyeing method that can be expected to develop the fashion field. Further, since the dyeing method of the present invention is an economically excellent dyeing method, it is possible to provide a fabric for fashion apparel that is relatively inexpensive and generally available.

以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。まず、本発明の染色方法の第1工程として、カチオン染料と、酢酸水溶液とを、カチオン染料の酢酸水溶液に対する体積割合が約1/3〜1/4の範囲に混合して染浴用液を調製する。この調製した染浴溶液の所定量を染浴液とした。本発明は、ラメ糸使用の布地を酢酸とカチオン染料とで溶かした染浴液に浸し、加熱のタイミングによって、イオン濃度が温度とカチオン染料の加減によって相違する性質を利用する染色方法である。  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. First, as the first step of the dyeing method of the present invention, a cationic dye and an aqueous acetic acid solution are mixed in a volume ratio of the cationic dye to the aqueous acetic acid solution in a range of about 1/3 to 1/4 to prepare a dye bath solution. To do. A predetermined amount of the prepared dyebath solution was used as a dyebath solution. The present invention is a dyeing method in which a fabric using lame yarn is immersed in a dye bath solution in which acetic acid and a cationic dye are dissolved, and the ion concentration varies depending on the temperature and the cationic dye depending on the heating timing.

ラメ糸使用の布地が染色される過程においては、温度の上昇によって、染浴液の各種のイオン濃度が変化する。即ち、ラメ糸から陰イオンが発生し、他方、カチオン染料には陽イオンが含有される。染浴液を加熱することにより、ラメ糸及びカチオン染料がそれぞれ有する物理化学的な性質に基づき、イオン濃度の変化が起こる。そして、銀ラメ表面で反応を起しラメ糸側から発生した陰イオンが移動し、化学的な反応が生じる。従って、ラメ糸近傍のカチオン染料の色素分子イオンが、ラメ糸の表面若しくはラメ糸を構成するフィルムの中間層へ拡散されながら、ラメ糸の分子及び/またはイオンと化学反応することにより、適当な場所へ染着されるものと考えられる。  In the process of dyeing a fabric using lame yarn, the various ion concentrations of the dye bath change as the temperature rises. That is, anions are generated from the lame yarn, while the cationic dye contains cations. By heating the dye bath, the ion concentration changes based on the physicochemical properties of the lame yarn and the cationic dye. Then, a reaction occurs on the surface of the silver glitter, and the anion generated from the lame yarn side moves to cause a chemical reaction. Accordingly, the dye molecular ion of the cationic dye near the lame yarn is appropriately diffused by chemically reacting with the molecules and / or ions of the lame yarn while diffusing to the surface of the lame yarn or the intermediate layer of the film constituting the lame yarn. It is thought that it is dyed to the place.

このように、ラメ糸使用の布地とカチオン染料は、温度の上昇には敏感に反応するため、あらかじめ準備する必要がある。そこで、別の小さい容器で染料を酢酸水溶液に溶解させてから、カチオン染料の酢酸水溶液を加える。続けて、ラメ糸の補強用として撚糸に使われているナイロンラメの場合には酸性染料、もしくは、コールダイホット染料を温湯で溶いて投入する。  As described above, the fabric using lame yarn and the cationic dye are sensitive to the increase in temperature, and thus need to be prepared in advance. Therefore, after the dye is dissolved in an acetic acid aqueous solution in another small container, an aqueous acetic acid solution of a cationic dye is added. Subsequently, in the case of nylon lame used for twisting yarn to reinforce lame yarn, acid dye or coal dye hot dye is dissolved in warm water and added.

次に、本発明の染色方法の第2工程において、上記のように調製した染浴液を攪拌しつつ染浴液を昇温する。但し、染浴液の温度が38℃近傍からラメ糸で編織した布地の染色が始まるため、染浴液の温度が38℃に達する前に、染色液にラメ糸で編織した布地を投入する必要がある。そこで、染浴液の温度が38℃未満の状態において、該染色液にラメ糸で編織した布地を投入するが、35℃に達するまでの温度下で該染色液にラメ糸で編織した布地を投入することが好ましい。尚、該布地を投入する際、糊等の付着物を水洗い等により除去し、全体的に水で濡らした状態にしてから、布地を投入する。  Next, in the second step of the dyeing method of the present invention, the dye bath solution is heated while stirring the dye bath solution prepared as described above. However, since the dyeing of the fabric knitted with lame yarn starts from around 38 ° C, the fabric knitted with lame yarn must be put into the dyeing solution before the temperature of the dye bath reaches 38 ° C. There is. Therefore, in a state where the temperature of the dye bath is less than 38 ° C., a fabric knitted with lame yarn is put into the dyeing solution, but a fabric knitted with lame yarn is used in the dyeing solution at a temperature up to 35 ° C. It is preferable to input. In addition, when throwing in the cloth, deposits such as glue are removed by washing with water or the like, and the cloth is thrown in after it is completely wetted with water.

本発明の染色方法の第3工程において、上記のラメ糸で編織した布地を上記染浴液中で移動、反転、振幅させることにより、上記染浴液を該布地に均一に浸透させつつ、該染浴液を緩やかに昇温する。そして、染浴液が約38℃に達すると、染浴液に投入された布地には、かすかに着色の兆候がみられる。尚、染料の色や濃度によっても染色の風合いに差異がある。尚、第3工程において、該布地を上記染浴液中で移動、反転、振幅させるのは、染浴液を布地に均等に浸透させるためであり、このような作業が充分に行われないと、繊維のたて方向に染着されない縞状が生じる等、好ましくない染色むらが発生するおそれがある。  In the third step of the dyeing method of the present invention, the fabric knitted with the lame yarn is moved, reversed, and amplitude in the dye bath solution, so that the dye bath solution penetrates the fabric uniformly, Gently warm the dye bath. When the dye bath reaches about 38 ° C., the fabric charged in the dye bath contains faint signs of coloring. The dyeing texture varies depending on the color and density of the dye. In the third step, the cloth is moved, reversed, and swung in the dyebath so as to allow the dyebath to penetrate into the cloth evenly. Undesirable uneven dyeing may occur, such as stripes that are not dyed in the warp direction of the fibers.

本発明の染色方法の第4工程において、上記染浴液は、約70℃まで急激な昇温は避けて緩やかに昇温を行い、約70℃から約85℃まで一気に加熱する。そして、更に、染浴液を昇温させ、該染浴液の温度が沸点に達した時点で15分間保持してから加熱を停止するとともに、該布地を取り出して約数10分間静置する。  In the fourth step of the dyeing method of the present invention, the dye bath is gradually heated to about 70 ° C. avoiding a rapid temperature rise and is heated from about 70 ° C. to about 85 ° C. at a stretch. Further, the temperature of the dye bath is increased, and when the temperature of the dye bath reaches the boiling point, the heating is stopped for 15 minutes, and then the fabric is taken out and allowed to stand for about several tens of minutes.

本発明の染色方法の第5工程において濃色仕上げの場合は2浴染がよい、上記a)の第1工程において、カチオン染料と酢酸水溶液とで溶いた染液だけを浴液が35℃位になったら投入して、緩やかに昇温して、布地を染浴液中にて移動反転振幅させる、90℃〜95℃になったら温度を停止して布地を取り出して浴液を全部捨て、捨てた量と同量の水を加えラメ糸の補強に使われているナイロンの着色仕上として酸性染料又はコールダイホット染料を投入し85℃位で約15分放置する2浴染にすることによって、少し濃い色の間隙状が出来る。  In the fifth step of the dyeing method of the present invention, two-bath dyeing is good in the case of dark finish. In the first step of a), only the dye solution dissolved with the cationic dye and the acetic acid aqueous solution is about 35 ° C. When the temperature becomes 90 ° C. to 95 ° C., the temperature is stopped and the fabric is taken out and all the bath liquid is discarded. By adding the same amount of water as the discarded amount and adding acid dye or cold dye hot dye as a nylon finish used to reinforce the lame thread, leave it at 85 ° C for about 15 minutes to make two bath dyeing A gap with a slightly darker color is formed.

本発明の染色方法において、一浴も2浴の場合も着色仕上液の加熱を停止して、上記の布地を該染浴液中に静置した状態で放置してもよく、又は昇温を停止してから数10分経過以降任意の時間に染浴液から取り出して処理しても良い。以上は通例の方法であるが文構成上記した。  In the dyeing method of the present invention, in the case of one bath or two baths, heating of the colored finish liquid may be stopped and the fabric may be left standing in the dye bath solution, or the temperature may be increased. You may take out from a dyebath liquid and process at arbitrary time after several ten minutes progress after stopping. The above is the usual method, but the sentence structure is described above.

[実施例1]
本発明の染色方法により、ラメ糸で編織された布地に対して染色したところ、間隙状に染色された布地を調製することができた。この染色された布地は、審美性に優れるものであった。
[Example 1]
When the fabric knitted with lame yarn was dyed by the dyeing method of the present invention, a fabric dyed in a gap shape could be prepared. This dyed fabric was excellent in aesthetics.

[比較例1]
染浴液を調製し、沸騰しない程度に、該染浴液を過熱した。昇温中の温度制御には特に注意せず、急速に昇温を行った。浴液がある程度熱くなった状態で、染料及び布地を適当に投入した。加熱するに従い、部分的に染着されない縦縞状の色ムラが生じるとともに、布地を構成するラメ糸にも、ところどころに剥離現象が生じていた。
[Comparative Example 1]
A dyebath solution was prepared, and the dyebath solution was heated to such an extent that it did not boil. The temperature was increased rapidly without any particular attention to the temperature control during the temperature increase. With the bath solution heated to some extent, the dye and fabric were added appropriately. As the heating was performed, vertical stripe-shaped color unevenness that was not partially dyed occurred, and peeling phenomenon occurred in some places in the lame yarn constituting the fabric.

Claims (1)

ラメ糸で編織した布地を間隙状に染色する方法であって、
a) カチオン染料と酢酸水溶液とを、カチオン染料の酢酸水溶液に対する体積割合が約1/3〜1/4位でよく混合しておき、同時に着色仕上げとしてラメ糸の補強用として撚糸に使われているナイロン又はレーヨンに適応される染料、此の場合はナイロンラメ糸なので酸性染料、もしくは、コールダイホット染料を準備する。第1工程と
b) 染浴液が35℃位になったら前期調整しておいた染料を、それぞれ投入して、よく撹拌して、ラメ糸で編織した布地を投入する第2工程と、
c) 前期染浴液を更に緩やかに昇温し、布地を上記染浴液中で移動反転・振幅させることにより、上記染浴液が該布地に均一に浸透させる急激な温度上昇はさけるように気を付ける第3工程と、
d) 上記浴温を90℃乃至、95℃温度下で約15分間保持してから加熱を停止すると共に布地をそのまま静止温度下で放置する又は徐々に自然的に冷却する。 第4工程
e) 濃色仕上げの場合は2浴染がよい上記a)の第1工程においてカチオン染料と酢酸水溶液とで溶いた染液だけを35℃位になったら投入し、c)の第3工程を経て85℃位になったら温度を停止して布地を取り出し浴液を全部捨て、捨てた量と同量の水を加え、着色仕上として酸性染料もしくはコールダイホット染料を投入しc)の第3工程とd)の第4工程を経る。後も更に昇温し85℃乃至沸点温度下で15分間以上は保持する。第5工程
f) 上記一浴の場合も二浴の場合も着色仕上液の加熱を停止するとともに上記布地を該着色仕上液中に静置した状態で室温下において放冷する第6工程とからなることによって出来る、ラメ糸で編織した布地を間隙状に染色する方法。
A method of dyeing a fabric knitted with lame yarn into gaps,
a) The cationic dye and the acetic acid aqueous solution are mixed well with the volume ratio of the cationic dye to the acetic acid aqueous solution being about 1/3 to 1/4, and at the same time, used as a colored finish for twisted yarn for reinforcing lame yarn. Prepare a dye suitable for nylon or rayon, in this case a nylon glitter thread, so that an acid dye or a cold dye hot dye is prepared. The first step and b) the second step in which the dyes prepared in the previous period are added when the dye bath reaches about 35 ° C., stirred well, and the fabric knitted with lame yarn is added;
c) The temperature of the dyebath solution is raised more gently, and the fabric is moved and reversed / amplified in the dyebath solution so that the rapid increase in temperature at which the dyebath solution uniformly penetrates the fabric is avoided. A third step to watch out for,
d) The bath temperature is maintained at 90 ° C. to 95 ° C. for about 15 minutes, and then the heating is stopped, and the fabric is left as it is at a static temperature or gradually gradually cooled. Fourth step e) In the case of dark finish, two bath dyeing is good. In the first step of a) above, only the dye solution dissolved with the cationic dye and the acetic acid aqueous solution is added at about 35 ° C. When the temperature reaches about 85 ° C after three steps, the temperature is stopped, the fabric is taken out, all the bath solution is discarded, the same amount of water is added, and an acid dye or cold dye hot dye is added as a coloring finish. The third step and the fourth step d) are performed. Thereafter, the temperature is further raised and maintained at 85 ° C. to the boiling point for 15 minutes or more. Fifth Step f) In the case of the above-mentioned one bath or two baths, the heating of the colored finishing solution is stopped and the fabric is allowed to cool at room temperature in a state where it is left in the colored finishing solution. A method of dyeing fabrics knitted with lame yarn into gaps.
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104047099A (en) * 2014-06-25 2014-09-17 江苏东源纺织科技实业有限公司 Manufacturing technology of health-care type blended knitted fabric
CN106012380A (en) * 2016-06-16 2016-10-12 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Method for solving cold-batch pretreatment uneven dying

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JPS63145442A (en) * 1986-12-03 1988-06-17 尾池工業株式会社 Production of color tinsel twisted yarn
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JPS5716939A (en) * 1980-07-02 1982-01-28 Toyo Boseki Fancy cloth
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JPS63145442A (en) * 1986-12-03 1988-06-17 尾池工業株式会社 Production of color tinsel twisted yarn
JPH02131573U (en) * 1989-03-30 1990-11-01
JPH04222281A (en) * 1990-12-20 1992-08-12 Oike Ind Co Ltd Dyeable metallic lustrous yarn
JPH0519382U (en) * 1991-08-26 1993-03-09 東洋サービス株式会社 Design yarn
JPH0617334A (en) * 1992-06-30 1994-01-25 Oike Ind Co Ltd Metallic-luster slit yarn for piece-dyeing, twist yarn or spun yarn thereof and textile good made of the same yarn
JP2000192344A (en) * 2000-01-01 2000-07-11 Oike Ind Co Ltd Metallic gloss slit yarn for piece dyeing and finishing

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104047099A (en) * 2014-06-25 2014-09-17 江苏东源纺织科技实业有限公司 Manufacturing technology of health-care type blended knitted fabric
CN106012380A (en) * 2016-06-16 2016-10-12 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Method for solving cold-batch pretreatment uneven dying

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