JP2005325122A - Cosmetic powder containing organopolysiloxane elastomer - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a make up composition or skin care composition in a powdery form having good characteristics from the view point of softness when applied to the skin and capable of obtaining deposition (particularly make up finish) having transparency and blocking defects of relief of the skin, e.g. micro-relief, wrinkle or fine lines while keeping covering effect in a low state. <P>SOLUTION: The subject cosmetic powder comprises an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder, an additional spherical filler, especially of a polyurethane or of a polymethyl methacrylate, and optionally an N-acylamino acid powder. The cosmetic powder is used for making up and skin caring. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic makeup or skin care composition in the form of a powder comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer in combination with other powders. The present invention also relates to a method for making up or caring for human skin comprising applying the composition to the skin.

  The makeup composition according to the present invention is a skin makeup composition such as a foundation, eye shadow, makeup blusher, concealer product, face powder, body powder, body makeup product, among others. The present invention more specifically relates to a foundation composition.

  The skin care composition may be a facial care product, a body care product, or a deodorant powder.

  Skin makeup compositions are often used to impart attractive colors to the skin, especially the face, but are also often used to mask skin defects such as redness, scars, and wrinkles.

Certain makeup compositions are in the form of loose powder or compact powder. These compositions usually contain a high content of powder, in particular at least 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Depending on the type of powder used, the cosmetic properties of the makeup product vary greatly. However, certain powders, such as calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium stearate, or titanium dioxide, give a dry, rough feel when the cosmetic powder is taken on the finger or spread on the skin, thus reducing softness. It is not preferable in terms of obtaining. Furthermore, when these powdery materials are used, the cosmetic powder deposits on the skin are opaque and coverable. Therefore, it is impossible to obtain a makeup finish that is transparent and has a shielding property, and a makeup finish that fades the defects of skin relief such as microrelief, wrinkles, and fine lines. The powder adhering to the skin is very clear and has a very powdery appearance that is different from the natural texture of the skin. That is, the makeup finish is not natural.
European Patent Application Publication No. 295886 JP 61-194009 European Patent Application Publication No. 242219 European Patent Application Publication No. 765656 US Pat. No. 5,553,793 European Patent No. 56219 European Patent No. 348372 European Patent No. 486080 European Patent Application Publication No. 320473 European Patent No. 112807 U.S. Pat.No. 3,615,972 U.S. Pat.No. 3438796 European Patent Application Publication No. 227423 U.S. Pat.No. 5,135,812 European Patent Application No. 170439 European Patent Application Publication No. 341002 U.S. Pat.No. 4,930,866 U.S. Patent No. 5641719 European Patent Application Publication No. 472371 European Patent Application Publication No. 395410 European Patent Application Publication No. 753545 European Patent Application Publication No. 768343 European Patent Application No. 571836 European Patent Application Publication No. 708154 European Patent Application Publication No. 579091 U.S. Patent No. 5411586 US Patent 5364467 International Publication No. 97/39066 German Patent Application No. 4225301 International Publication No. 95/17479 German patent application 19614637 European Patent Application Publication No. 1046692

  Accordingly, the object of the present invention is to have a good characteristic in terms of softness when applied to the skin, to be transparent while keeping the covering effect low, and to have the drawbacks of skin relief, such as microrelief, wrinkles, fine lines. It is to provide a makeup or skin care composition in the form of a powder that makes it possible to obtain a deposit (especially a makeup finish).

  It is also an object of the invention to make makeup in the form of a powder that is natural, not very powdery and allows the deposit to be obtained on the skin, allowing the natural texture of the skin to show through. It is also providing the composition for use.

  The inventors have discovered that such compositions can be obtained by combining organopolysiloxane elastomer powders with other specific powders.

  More specifically, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, at least one spherical filler, and at least one N-acylated amino acid powder.

  The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer powder and at least one spherical filler comprising calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, chalk, titanium dioxide, 8 Metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having -22 carbon atoms, preferably 12-18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate A composition that does not contain a compound is provided.

  The present invention further provides a cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising at least two organopolysiloxane elastomer powders and at least one N-acylamino acid powder.

  The present invention further provides a cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, at least one polymethyl methacrylate powder, and at least one N-acylated amino acid powder.

  Furthermore, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder and at least one polyurethane powder.

  Moreover, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder and at least one acrylic polymer powder other than polymethyl methacrylate powder.

  The subject of the present invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for making up or treating the skin comprising applying to the skin a composition as described above.

  Furthermore, the present invention provides a deposit, in particular a makeup, which is transparent and / or masks the drawbacks of the relief of the skin and / or is natural and / or allows the skin texture to show through. There is provided the use of a composition as described above for obtaining a finish on the skin.

  The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a spherical organopolysiloxane elastomer powder.

  The organopolysiloxane elastomer is advantageously crosslinked, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst, a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and an ethylenically unsaturated group bonded to silicon. Dehydration of diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of organotin A basic crosslinking condensation reaction, a crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing a hydroxyl terminal group and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane, or thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane in the presence of an organic peroxide catalyst, or gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, Organo by high energy radiation such as electron beam It can be obtained by cross-linking of the polysiloxane.

  Preferably, the cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomer is a diorgano, which contains at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst (C2), for example as described in EP-A-295886. It is obtained by a cross-linking addition reaction between polysiloxane (A2) and diorganopolysiloxane (B2) containing at least two types of ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogen polysiloxane (methylhydrogen polysiloxane) containing trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

  The compound (A2) is the main agent for forming the organopolysiloxane elastomer, and crosslinking occurs by the addition reaction of the compound (A2) and the compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2).

  Compound (A2) is preferably a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (eg C2-C4). The lower alkenyl group can be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the end of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) can have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure, but a straight chain structure is preferred. The compound (A2) can have a viscosity from a liquid state to a rubber state. Preferably, the viscosity of compound (A2) is at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

  Organopolysiloxane (A2) is methylvinylsiloxane, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymer containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylvinylsiloxy end Dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer containing groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylvinylsiloxy end Methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane containing groups and dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups It can be selected from dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymer containing.

  Compound (B2) is an organopolysiloxane containing inter alia at least two hydrogens bonded to silicon in each molecule and is therefore a crosslinker for compound (A2).

  Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (A2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule of compound (B2) is at least 4.

  The compound (B2) can have an arbitrary molecular structure, particularly a linear or branched structure, or a cyclic structure.

  The viscosity of the compound (B2) can be 1 to 50000 centistokes at 25 ° C., in particular for good miscibility with the compound (A).

  In such an amount that the molar ratio of the total number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in the compound (B2) and the total number of ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (A2) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1. It is advantageous to add the compound (B2).

  Compound (B2) can be selected from methyl hydrogen polysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methyl hydrogen siloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methyl hydrogen siloxane copolymers.

  Catalyst (C2) is a crosslinking reaction catalyst, especially supported on chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complex, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complex, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complex, platinum black, and support. Platinum.

  The catalyst (C2) is preferably added as a clean platinum metal in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A2) and (B2), and is added in an amount of 1 to 100 parts by weight. Even better.

  Other organic groups, for example, alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, phenyl, tolyl, xylyl In the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described above, aryl groups such as phenylethyl, substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl, and monovalent substituted hydrocarbon groups such as epoxy groups, carboxylic acid ester groups, and mercapto groups It may be bonded to silicon.

  The organopolysiloxane elastomer is advantageously non-emulsifying. The term “non-emulsifying” means an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain hydrophilic chains such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerin-modified units.

  Spherical organopolysiloxane elastomers are particularly described in JP-A 61-194009, European Patent Application Publication No. 242219, European Patent Application Publication No. 295886, and European Patent Application Publication No. 765656, the contents of which are referred to by reference. Incorporated.

  The organopolysiloxane elastomer powders that can be used are those sold by Dow Corning under the names “Dow Corning 9505 Powder” and “Dow Corning 9506 Powder”. These powders are called dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. There is an INCI name.

  The organopolysiloxane elastomer powder preferably comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,553,793. This content is incorporated by reference. Such elastomer powders are sold by Shin-Etsu under the names “KSP-100”, “KSP-101”, “KSP-102”, “KSP-103”, “KSP-104”, and “KSP-105”. And has the INCI name vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.

  Other organopolysiloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powders are also available from Shin-Etsu, particularly hybrid silicone powders with functional groups of fluoroalkyl groups sold under the name “KSP-200” from Shin-Etsu. It may be a hybrid silicone powder having a phenyl functional group sold under the name “300”.

  Thus, the composition preferably comprises at least two organopolysiloxane elastomers comprising at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, in particular with a silsesquioxane resin, as described above. Powders can be included.

  The powder of the organopolysiloxane elastomer, especially the non-emulsifiable organopolysiloxane elastomer, is preferably spherical and is preferentially 5% to 25% by weight, preferably 7% to 15% by weight, preferentially relative to the total weight of the composition Can be present in the composition at a content of 8% to 12% by weight.

  In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, in particular with a silsesquioxane resin, in an amount of 1% to 25%, in particular 1% to 15%, based on the total weight of the composition. It can be contained in a content of% by weight, preferably 2% to 8% by weight, preferentially 3% to 7% by weight.

  The composition may comprise a mixture of an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, and an uncoated organopolysiloxane elastomer powder. In such a mixture, the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, is 1% to 10% by weight, preferably 2% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. , Preferentially can be present at a content of 3% to 7% by weight. The uncoated organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is present in a content of 1% to 10% by weight, preferably 2% to 8% by weight, preferentially 3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition can do.

  The composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise a spherical filler. These spherical fillers can be selected from mineral fillers or organic fillers, preferably organic fillers. These spherical fillers are different from the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder described above. These fillers are especially non-elastomeric. Advantageously, these fillers are not film-forming. That is, it does not form a continuous film when deposited on a support such as skin.

Spherical fillers are for example acrylic powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate powders,
Acrylic powder other than polymethyl methacrylate powder,
Can be selected from polyurethane powder,
These powders are described below.

  The composition according to the invention comprises 10% to 40%, preferably 15% to 35%, preferentially 15% to 30%, more preferentially spherical fillers relative to the total weight of the composition. May be included at a content of 15% to 25% by weight.

  According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition may comprise a polymethyl methacrylate powder, especially a spherical powder.

  The polymethyl methacrylate powder is generally in the form of hollow or non-hollow white spherical particles having a number average particle size usually on the order of micrometers, especially 3-15 microns, usually 3-10 microns. The expression “number average particle size” refers to the particle size relative to the midpoint of the population by statistical particle size distribution, referred to as D50.

  These polymethylmethacrylate particles can also be characterized by their density, which can vary depending on the size of the spherical cavities of the particles in particular.

  In the present invention, this density, called packing density, is evaluated according to the following protocol.

Pour m = 40 g of powder into a graduated cylinder. The graduated cylinder is then placed on a Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 machine. Next, the filling operation is performed 1500 times with a graduated cylinder. The final volume Vf of the filled powder is then measured directly with a graduated cylinder. The packing density is determined by the ratio m / Vf. In this case, 40 / Vf (Vf is expressed in cm ³ and m is expressed in g).

  In particular, the density of the polymethyl methacrylate particles that can be used in the present invention can be 0.3 to 1.5, in particular 0.5 to 1.5, more specifically 1 to 1.5.

  Non-limiting examples of polymethyl methacrylate suitable for the present invention include, in particular, the name of “Micropearl M100” from Matsumoto Yushi Co., Ltd., the name of “Covabead LH 85” from LCW, And polymethyl methacrylate particles sold under the name of "".

  The polymethyl methacrylate particles can be present in a content of 5% to 20% by weight, preferably 7% to 18% by weight, preferentially 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

  The composition according to the invention can comprise powders of acrylic polymers other than polymethyl methacrylate powder, in particular spherical powders.

  In particular, the acrylic powder may be a powder of acrylonitrile polymer or copolymer, especially a foamed hollow particle of acrylonitrile polymer or copolymer. Advantageously, the particles can be made of any expanded acrylonitrile polymer or copolymer that is non-toxic and non-irritating to the skin.

Especially, the unit volume weight of the ^{particles, 15kg / m 3 ~200kg / m} 3, better still ^{40kg / m 3 ~120kg / m 3} , more commonly selected in the range of 60kg / m ³ ~80kg / m ³ . In order to obtain this low unit volume mass, it is advantageous to use expanded polymer or copolymer particles, preferably acrylonitrile-based and acrylic or styrene monomer-based and / or vinylidene chloride-based.

  For example, 0% to 60% units derived from vinylidene chloride, 20% to 90% units derived from acrylonitrile, and 0% to 50% units derived from acrylic or styrene monomers, this (weight) percentage Copolymers with a total of equal to 100 can be used. The acrylic monomer is, for example, methyl or ethyl acrylate or methacrylate. The styrene monomer is, for example, α-methylstyrene or styrene.

  Preferably, the particles used in the present invention are hollow particles of a foamed copolymer of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate. These particles may be dried or hydrated.

  The particles of the present invention can be obtained, for example, according to the methods of European Patent No. 56219, European Patent No. 348372, European Patent No. 486080, European Patent Application Publication No. 320473, European Patent No. 112807, and US Pat. No. 3,615,972. it can.

  The internal cavities of the particles contain in principle a gas which can be air, nitrogen or a hydrocarbon such as isobutane or isopentane.

  Advantageously, the particle size of the particles according to the invention is 1 μm to 80 μm, better 10 μm to 50 μm, better still 10 μm to 30 μm.

The particles that can be used in the present invention are, for example, trade name EXPANSEL from EXPANSEL, reference symbol 551 DE 50 (particle size about 40 μm), 551 DE 20 (particle size about 30 μm, unit volume mass about 65 kg / m ³ ). Expanded terpolymer microspheres of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate, sold in 551 DE 12 (particle size about 12 μm), 551 DE 80 (particle size about 80 μm), and 461 DE 50 (particle size about 50 μm) It is. Particle size of about 18μm called EL 23 below was formed from a unit volume weight of about 70 kg / of m ^3, or particle size about 34μm called EL 43 below, the same foamed terpolymers unit volume weight of about 20 kg / m ³ Microspheres can also be used.

  Advantageously, the acrylic powder is present in the composition when the composition is in the form of a loose powder.

  Acrylic powders other than polymethylmethacrylate powder are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.05% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, preferentially 0.1% to It can be present at a content of 1.2% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention can comprise a polyurethane powder, in particular a spherical powder. In particular, polyurethane powder is not film-forming. That is, it does not form a continuous film when deposited on a support such as skin.

  Advantageously, the polyurethane powder is a powder of a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone. Such polyurethane powders are sold in particular under the names “Plastic Powder D-400” and “Plastic Powder D-800” by Tokosha.

  Another polyurethane powder that can be used is a product sold under the name “Plastic Powder CS-400” by Toshi Co., Ltd.

  The polyurethane powder is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially 5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Can exist.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise N-acylamino acid powder. Such powders impart a creamy property to cosmetic powders.

  N-acylamino acids may contain acyl groups containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl groups. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

  The N-acylamino acid powder can advantageously be lauroyllysine powder.

  N-acylamino acid powder is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 5% to 20% by weight, preferably 7% to 18% by weight, preferentially 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be present in content.

  The composition according to the invention can comprise barium sulfate. The barium sulfate particles may be coated with N-acylamino acids such as those described above, particularly lauroyllysine.

  Barium sulfate is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 1% to 10% by weight, preferably 2% to 8% by weight, preferentially 3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Can exist.

  The composition can comprise at least one powder dye that can be selected from pigments and pearlescent agents.

  The term “pigment” is understood to mean any shape of white or colored mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in physiological media and are intended to color the composition.

  The term “pearlescent agent” is to be understood as meaning pearlescent particles of any shape, especially produced in certain mollusc shells or alternatively synthesized.

  The pigment can be white or colored and mineral and / or organic. As mineral pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, And metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.

  Examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D & C type pigments, and cochineal carmine-based lakes, or barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum-based lakes.

  Pearlescent pigments are white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with iron oxide, especially titanium mica coated with ferric blue or chrome oxide, coated with organic pigments of the type mentioned above It can be selected from colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica and bismuth oxychloride pearlescent pigments.

  Goniochromatic pigments can also be used. This pigment exhibits a relatively large color change depending on the observation angle.

  The goniochromatic pigment can be selected, for example, from a pigment having a multilayer interference structure and a liquid crystal pigment.

For multi-layer structure, this structure may for instance comprise at least two layers, each layer, if not likely Whether independent from other layers, for example, materials, i.e. MgF _2, CeF _3, ZnS, _{ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge} , Te, Fe 2 O 3, Pt, Va, A1 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, S 2 O 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 Selected from the group consisting of O ₅ , Ta ₂ O ₅ , TiO ₂ , Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS ₂ , cryolite, alloy, polymer, and combinations thereof Made from at least one material.

  Goniochromatic agents with a multi-layer structure are described in particular in U.S. Pat.No. 3438796, European Patent Application Publication No. 227423, U.S. Pat.No. 5,135,812, European Patent Application Publication No. 170439, European Patent Application Publication No.341002, and US Pat. , U.S. Patent No. 5641719, European Patent Application Publication No. 472371, European Patent Application Publication No. 395410, European Patent Application Publication No. 753545, European Patent Application Publication No. 768343, European Patent Application Publication No. 571836, European Patent Application Publication No. 708154, European Patent Application Publication No. 579091, U.S. Patent No. 5411586, U.S. Patent No. 5364467, International Publication No. 97/39066, German Patent Application Publication No. 42205031, International Publication No. WO 95/17479 (BASF) ) And German Patent Application Publication No. 19614637. These are in the form of metal-containing pigment flakes.

The multilayer structure that can be used in the present invention is, for example, Al / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / Al; Cr / MgF ₂ / Al / MgF ₂ / Al; MoS ₂ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / MoS ₂ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ ; MoS ₂ / SiO ₂ / Mica-oxide / SiO ₂ / The structure is MoS ₂ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / mica-oxide / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ . Different colors are obtained depending on the thickness of the various layers. Therefore, in the case of the structure of Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ , the SiO ₂ layer of 320 to 350 nm changes from green-gold to red-gray, and the red of 380 to 400 nm of SiO ₂ layer. from gold, to green from purple in the SiO ₂ layer of 410~420nm, color changes to red from the red-brown in the SiO ₂ layer of 430~440nm.

  Therefore, the multilayer structure may basically be a mineral or an organic substance. Different colors are obtained depending on the thickness of the various layers.

  The goniochromatic pigments having a multi-layer interference structure according to the present invention are described in particular in U.S. Pat.No. 3438796, European Patent Application Publication No. 227423, US Patent No. 5135812, European Patent Application Publication No. 170439, European Patent Application Publication No. 341002, US Patent No. 4930866, US Patent No. 5641719, European Patent Application Publication No. 472371, European Patent Application Publication No. 395410, European Patent Application Publication No. 753545, European Patent Application Publication No. 768343, European Patent Application Publication No. 57l836 European Patent Application Publication No. 708154, European Patent Application Publication No. 579091, U.S. Patent No. 5411586, U.S. Patent No. 5364467, International Publication No. 97/39066, German Patent Application Publication No. 4220251, International Publication No. No. 17479 (BASF), German Patent Application Publication No. 19614637, and combinations thereof. These are in the form of metal-containing pigment flakes.

  Preferably, the multi-layer interference goniochromatic pigment comprises the following commercial goniochromatic pigments: Shiseido's Infinite Color, BASF's Chico Pearl Fantastico, Merck's Color Stream, Silical or Silona, FLEX's Colorglitter, and mixtures thereof You can choose from a group.

  Examples of the goniochromatic pigment having a multilayer structure include those sold under the name “Sicopearl”.

  Liquid crystal pigments are described in particular in European Patent Application No. 1046692.

  Liquid crystal particles that can be used in particular are known under the CTFA name polyacrylate-4, from Wacker, "Helicone (registered trademark) HC Sapphire", "Helicone (registered trademark) HC Scarabeus", "Helicone (registered trademark) HC Jade ”,“ Helicone® HC Maple ”,“ Helicone® HC XL Sapphire ”,“ Helicone® HC XL Scarabeus ”,“ Helicone® HC XL Jade ”, and“ Helicone® ” (Trademark) Some products are sold under the name HC XL Maple.

  This dye is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, preferentially 3% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Can exist.

  The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one or more additional fillers other than the organopolysiloxane elastomer powders and spherical fillers described above.

  “Filler” should be understood as meaning colorless or white mineral or synthetic particles of any shape that are insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced.

  The filler may be a mineral or an organic substance, and can have any shape, platelet shape, spherical shape, or rectangular shape regardless of the crystalline form (eg, layered, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon (registered trademark) powder, poly-β-alanine powder, polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon (registered trademark)) powder, starch, boron nitride, silicone resin powder ( For example, Toshiba's Tospearls®), hydroxyapatite, sericite, glass beads, and ceramic beads may be mentioned.

  The additional filler is present in the composition at a content of 0.5% to 75% by weight, preferably 1% to 60% by weight, preferentially 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. be able to.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is derived from calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, chalk, titanium dioxide, an organic carboxylic acid containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Metal soaps such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate. Such compounds have the disadvantage of harming the soft feel of the cosmetic powder.

  The term "free" means that the said compound not to be included in the composition is less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferentially relative to the total weight of the composition Means less than 1% by weight or no (ie 0% by weight).

  The composition according to the invention advantageously has a total content of powdered compounds of 80% to 99% by weight, preferably 85% to 99% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one fatty phase, usually comprising at least one oil. This type of fatty phase is also commonly referred to as a binder oil and acts in particular as a dispersion medium for the particle phase.

The oil can be selected from oils that are usually used as a binding oil in loose powders or compact powders. These oils are especially
-Mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, or peanut oil,
-Hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane and petroleum jelly,
-Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristine Fatty acid esters such as acid or lactic acid 2-octyldodecyl, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate,
-Polymethylsiloxane, polymethylphenylsiloxane; polysiloxane modified with fatty acid, fatty alcohol or polyoxyalkylene; silicone oil such as fluorosilicone, perfluorooil,
-Higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid,
-Higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol,
-Polymethylfluoroalkyldimethylsiloxane of formula (I)

[Where
-n represents an integer of 5 to 90, in particular 30 to 80, in particular 50 to 80,
-m represents an integer from 1 to 150, in particular from 1 to 80, especially from 1 to 40,
-a represents an integer from 0 to 5,
-Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl group containing 1-8 carbon atoms], and
-You can choose from the mixture.

  As compounds of the formula (I) most particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names X22-819, X22-820, X22-821 and X22-822 by Shin-Etsu.

  The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one oil in a content of 1% to 20% by weight, in particular 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition can be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, waxes, water, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, and anti-wrinkle actives Other commonly used cosmetic materials can be included.

  Of course, one skilled in the art will recognize one or more of this optionally added compound, and / or such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not adversely affected or substantially unaffected by the envisioned addition, and / or Or you would choose the amount carefully.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is an anhydrous composition. The term “anhydrous composition” means a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, even less than 0.5%, in particular a composition free of water. This water is not added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponds to the residual water provided by the mixed materials.

  The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a loose powder or in the form of a compact powder. The term “compact powder” refers to powder pressed using a manual or mechanical press.

  The following examples illustrate the invention in more detail.

(Example 1)
A loose face powder having the following composition was prepared.
5g cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane particles coated with silicone resin
(Shin-Etsusha's KSP-100)
Silicone elastomer spherical powder 5g
(Dow Corning Dow Corning 9506 Powder)
Polyurethane spherical powder 10g
(Eastern Color Plastic Powder D-400)
Polymethyl methacrylate spherical powder 10g
(Ganz Pearl GMP 0820)
0.5 g of microspheres of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer foamed with isobutane
(Expansel's Expancel 551 DE 20 D60)
Lauroyllysine 5g
5g barium sulfate coated with lauroyl lysine
(LLD-5 BaSO _{4 from} Daito Kasei)
Talc 37.6g
Mica 15g
Iron oxide 3.30g
Preservative 0.6g
Isocetyl stearate 3g

  This powder will easily spread on the face and give good softness. The resulting makeup finish is transparent, homogeneous, cohesive, has a natural appearance that allows the skin texture to show through, and diminishes the drawbacks of skin relief.

(Example 2)
A loose face powder having the following composition was prepared.
5g cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane particles coated with silicone resin
(Shin-Etsusha's KSP-100)
Silicone elastomer spherical powder 5g
(Dow Corning Dow Corning 9506 Powder)
Polyurethane spherical powder 10g
(Eastern Color Plastic Powder D-400)
Polymethyl methacrylate spherical powder 10g
(Ganz Pearl GMP 0820)
0.5 g of microspheres of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer foamed with isobutane
(Expansel's Expancel 551 DE 20 D60)
Lauroyllysine 5g
5g barium sulfate coated with lauroyl lysine
(LLD-5 BaSO _{4 from} Daito Kasei)
Talc 12.7g
Mica 12g
Iron oxide 5.2g
Pearl luster pigment 26g
Preservative 0.6g
Isocetyl stearate 3g

  This powder will easily spread on the face and give good softness. The resulting makeup finish is transparent, homogeneous, cohesive, has a natural appearance that allows the skin texture to show through, and diminishes the drawbacks of skin relief.

(Example 3)
A loose face powder having the following composition was prepared.
20g cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane particles coated with silicone resin
(Shin-Etsusha's KSP-100)
Polyurethane spherical powder 10g
(Eastern Color Plastic Powder D-400)
Polymethyl methacrylate spherical powder 10g
(Ganz Pearl GMP 0820)
Microspheres of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer foamed with isobutane 0.50 g
(Expansel's Expancel 551 DE 20 D60)
Lauroyllysine 5g
5g barium sulfate coated with lauroyl lysine
(LLD-5 BaSO _{4 from} Daito Kasei)
Talc 27.6g
Mica 15g
Iron oxide 3.30g
Preservative 0.6g
Isocetyl stearate 3g

  This powder will easily spread on the face and give good softness. The resulting makeup finish is transparent, homogeneous, cohesive, has a natural appearance that allows the skin texture to show through, and diminishes the drawbacks of skin relief.

Example 4
A compact face powder having the following composition was prepared.
5g cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane particles coated with silicone resin
(Shin-Etsusha's KSP-100)
Silicone elastomer spherical powder 5g
(Dow Corning Dow Corning 9506 Powder)
Polyurethane spherical powder 10g
(Eastern Color Plastic Powder D-400)
Polymethyl methacrylate spherical powder 10g
(Ganz Pearl GMP 0820)
Microspheres of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer foamed with isobutane 0.50 g
(Expansel's Expancel 551 DE 20 D60)
Lauroyllysine 5g
5g barium sulfate coated with lauroyl lysine
(LLD-5 BaSO _{4 from} Daito Kasei)
Talc 21.2g
Mica 10g
Iron oxide 3.30g
Zinc stearate 3g
Bismuth oxychloride 10g
Preservative 1.4g
Phenyltrimethicone 6g
6g glyceryl triisostearate

  Sift this powder, pour it into a metal dish and then compact.

The powder spreads easily on the face and gives good softness. The resulting makeup finish is transparent, homogeneous, cohesive, has a natural appearance that allows the skin texture to show through, and diminishes the drawbacks of skin relief.

Claims (67)

  A cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, at least one spherical filler, and at least one N-acylated amino acid powder.   A cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder and at least one additional spherical filler comprising calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, chalk, titanium dioxide, 8-22 carbons A composition containing no compound selected from metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having atoms.   A cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising at least two organopolysiloxane elastomer powders and at least one N-acylated amino acid powder.   A cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, at least one polymethyl methacrylate powder, and at least one N-acylated amino acid powder.   A cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder and at least one polyurethane powder.   A cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder and at least one acrylic polymer powder other than a polymethyl methacrylate powder. Organopolysiloxane elastomer
A cross-linking addition reaction between a diorganosiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a diorganopolysiloxane containing an ethylenically unsaturated group bonded to silicon;
A dehydrogenative crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon,
・ Cross-condensation reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and hydrolyzable organopolysilane,
・ Thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane,
・ Crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation
7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is selected from those obtained by   Organopolysiloxane elastomers, particularly in the presence of (C) a platinum catalyst, (A) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon and (B) at least two ethylene bonded to silicon 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is obtained by a cross-linking addition reaction with a diorganopolysiloxane containing a polymerizable unsaturated group.   The organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogen polysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst. The composition as described in any one of these.   10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is a non-emulsifiable elastomer.   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, in particular with a silsesquioxane resin.   12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is a spherical powder.   Characterized in that the organopolysiloxane powder is present in a content of 5% to 25% by weight, preferably 7% to 15% by weight, preferentially 8% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.   Organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, is 1% to 25% by weight, preferably 2% to 8% by weight, preferentially 3%, based on the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that it is present in a content of from% to 7% by weight.   15. A silicone resin, in particular comprising a mixture of an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and an uncoated organopolysiloxane elastomer powder. Composition.   Uncoated organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is present in a content of 1% to 10% by weight, preferably 2% to 8% by weight, preferentially 3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition 16. The composition according to claim 15, wherein   The content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin is 1% to 10% by weight, preferably 2% to 8% by weight, preferentially 3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition 16. The composition of claim 15, wherein the composition is present in   4. The composition according to claim 3, comprising at least one spherical filler.   19. The composition according to any one of claims 1, 2, and 18, wherein the spherical filler is selected from organic fillers.   The spherical filler is selected from polymethyl methacrylate powder, acrylic powder other than polymethyl methacrylate powder, and polyurethane powder, according to any one of claims 1, 2, 18, and 19. Composition.   Spherical filler is 10% to 40%, preferably 15% to 35%, preferentially 15% to 30%, more preferentially 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition 21. A composition according to any one of claims 1, 2 and 18 to 20, characterized in that it is present at a content of   7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, 5, and 6, characterized in that it comprises polymethyl methacrylate powder.   23. Composition according to claim 22, characterized in that the density of the polymethyl methacrylate powder is 0.3 to 1.5, in particular 0.5 to 1.5, more specifically 1 to 1.5.   The polymethyl methacrylate powder is present in a content of 5% to 20% by weight, preferably 7% to 18% by weight, preferentially 8% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition 24. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, 5, 6, 22, and 23.   6. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising an acrylic polymer powder other than the polymethyl methacrylate powder.   26. A composition according to any one of claims 6 and 25, wherein the acrylic polymer powder is a powder of acrylonitrile polymer or copolymer.   27. A composition according to any one of claims 6, 25 and 26, wherein the acrylic polymer powder comprises expanded hollow particles of acrylonitrile polymer or copolymer. Acrylic polymer powders, unit volume mass ^{15kg / m 3 ~200kg / m 3} , even better ^{40kg / m 3 ~120kg / m 3} , preferably a characterized in that it comprises particles of 60kg / m ³ ~80kg / m ³ A composition according to any one of claims 6 and 25 to 27.   29. Composition according to any one of claims 6 and 25 to 28, characterized in that the acrylic polymer is a copolymer of acrylonitrile and acrylic or styrene monomers and / or vinylidene chloride.   The acrylic polymer is a copolymer containing 0% to 60% units derived from vinylidene chloride, 20% to 90% units derived from acrylonitrile, and 0% to 50% units derived from acrylic or styrene monomers, 30. Composition according to any one of claims 6 and 25 to 29, characterized in that the sum of weight) percentages is equal to 100.   31. The composition of claim 30, wherein the acrylic monomer is selected from methyl (meth) acrylate and ethyl (meth) acrylate.   30. The composition according to claim 29, wherein the styrene monomer is α-methylstyrene or styrene.   33. Composition according to any one of claims 6 and 25 to 32, characterized in that the acrylic polymer powder comprises hollow particles of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or a foamed copolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate. .   34. Acrylic polymer powder comprising particles having an internal cavity containing a gas selected from air, nitrogen, isobutane, and isopentane, according to any one of claims 6 and 25 to 33. Composition.   35. Composition according to any one of claims 6 and 25 to 34, characterized in that the acrylic polymer powder comprises particles with a particle size of 1 [mu] m to 80 [mu] m, preferably 10 [mu] m to 50 [mu] m, preferentially 10 [mu] m to 30 [mu] m. Stuff.   Acrylic powders other than polymethyl methacrylate powder are present in a content of 0.05% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, preferentially 0.1% to 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition 36. A composition according to any one of claims 6 and 25 to 35.   7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and 6, characterized in that it comprises a polyurethane powder.   The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, 6, and 37, wherein the polyurethane powder is a powder of a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone.   The polyurethane powder is present in a content of 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially 5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition 39. The composition according to any one of items 1 to 4, 6, 37, and 38.   The composition according to any one of claims 2, 5, and 6, characterized in that it comprises N-acylamino acid powder.   41. The composition according to any one of claims 1, 3, 4, and 40, wherein the N-acyl amino acid comprises an acyl group comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms.   42. The composition of claim 40 or 41, wherein the N-acyl amino acid comprises an acyl group selected from 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, and a cocoyl group.   43. The composition of claim 42, wherein the amino acid is selected from lysine, glutamic acid, and alanine.   44. The composition according to any one of claims 41 to 43, wherein the N-acylamino acid is lauroyllysine.   N-acylamino acid powder is present in a content of 5% to 20% by weight, preferably 7% to 18% by weight, preferentially 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition 45. A composition according to any one of claims 1, 3, 4, and 40 to 44.   46. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 45, comprising barium sulfate.   47. The composition of claim 46, wherein the barium sulfate is coated with an N-acyl amino acid.   48. The composition according to claim 47, wherein the N-acylamino acid is that according to any one of claims 41 to 44.   49. A composition according to any one of claims 46 to 48, wherein the barium sulfate is coated with lauroyllysine.   Barium sulfate is present in a content of 1% to 10% by weight, preferably 2% to 8% by weight, preferentially 3% to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition 50. The composition according to any one of items 46 to 49.   51. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 50, comprising at least one powder dye.   52. Composition according to claim 51, characterized in that the powder dye is selected from pigments and pearlescent agents.   The powder dye is present in a content of from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition Item 53. The composition according to item 52.   54. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 53, comprising at least one additional filler.   Additional fillers include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powder, poly-β-alanine powder, polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, starch, boron nitride, silicone resin powder, hydroxyapatite, sericite, glass beads, 55. The composition of claim 54, wherein the composition is selected from ceramic beads.   It is characterized in that the additional filler is present in a content of 0.5% to 75% by weight, preferably 1% to 60% by weight, preferentially 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition 56. A composition according to claim 54 or 55.   A compound selected from calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, chalk, titanium dioxide, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, 57. The composition according to any one of 3 to 56.   58. The total content of the powder compound occupies 80% to 99% by weight, preferably 85% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition.   59. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 58, comprising at least one oil.   60. Composition according to claim 59, characterized in that the oil is present in a content of 1% to 20% by weight, in particular 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   Cosmetic material selected from antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, waxes, water, sunscreens, vitamins, humectants, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle actives, and deodorant actives 61. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 60, comprising:   62. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 61, which is an anhydride.   63. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 62, characterized in that it is in the form of a loose powder or in the form of a compact powder.   64. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 63, wherein the composition is a makeup powder or a skin care powder.   65. The composition of any of claims 1 to 64, wherein the composition is in the form of a foundation, eye shadow, makeup blusher, concealer product, body makeup product, face care product, body care product, or deodorant powder. A composition according to claim 1.   68. A cosmetic makeup or therapeutic treatment method for the skin comprising applying to the skin the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 65. Appropriate deposits, especially make-up finishes on the skin that are transparent and / or mask the defects of the relief of the skin and / or are natural and / or allow the natural texture of the skin to show through 66. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 65 for obtaining.