JP2013539745A - Beauty method to hide skin defects - Google Patents

Beauty method to hide skin defects Download PDF

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Publication number
JP2013539745A
JP2013539745A JP2013513472A JP2013513472A JP2013539745A JP 2013539745 A JP2013539745 A JP 2013539745A JP 2013513472 A JP2013513472 A JP 2013513472A JP 2013513472 A JP2013513472 A JP 2013513472A JP 2013539745 A JP2013539745 A JP 2013539745A
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composition
filler
cosmetic method
weight
μm
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慎一 松藤
雅子 白井
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ロレアル
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Priority to PCT/JP2010/005857 priority Critical patent/WO2012042570A1/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0245Specific shapes or structures not provided for by any of the groups of A61K8/0241
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

Abstract

A cosmetic method for concealing skin defects, in particular facial skin pores and / or wrinkles, comprising at least (i) an organosilicone having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure and having a major diameter L 1 of from about 0.05 μm to about 20 μm A spindle-shaped particle having a short diameter L 2 of about 0.03 μm to about 15 μm and L 1 / L 2 of about 1.1 to about 3.3, (ii) a hydrophobic surface treatment filler, and optionally A process comprising the step of applying a cosmetic powder composition, in particular in the form of a compact powder, comprising (iii) pigments and / or other cosmetically acceptable ingredients as components.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for concealing pores and / or wrinkles in skin defects, in particular facial skin. The cosmetic method comprises at least (i) a spindle-shaped particle comprising an organosilicone having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure, (ii) a hydrophobic surface treatment filler, and (iii) a pigment and / or other cosmetically acceptable as an optional component. Applying a cosmetic powder composition comprising possible ingredients, in particular in the form of a compact powder. The fusiform particles can have a major axis L 1 of approximately 0.05 μm to approximately 20 μm and a minor axis L 2 of approximately 0.03 μm to approximately 15 μm, and L 1 / L 2 can be approximately 1.1 to approximately 3.3. .

  It would be desirable to provide an improved cosmetic method for concealing skin defects, particularly facial skin pores and / or wrinkles. The cosmetic composition preferably provides improved transfer resistance and a smooth feel.

  In view of the currently available methods still need to improve concealment or concealer properties while simultaneously providing good transfer resistance and a smooth feel for the cosmetic compounds used in the methods, The inventor has tested a number of methods using various cosmetic compositions. As a result, the inventor has found that the cosmetic composition in particular comprises spindle-shaped particles, a hydrophobic surface treatment filler, and optionally a pigment and / or other cosmetically acceptable ingredients identified later. The present inventors have found that application of a cosmetic composition can hide skin defects, particularly pores and / or wrinkles in facial skin, and have been completed in the present invention.

According to one aspect of the invention, the inventor proposes a cosmetic method for hiding pores and / or wrinkles in skin defects, in particular facial skin, which comprises at least (i) a crosslinked polysiloxane. It consists of an organosilicone having a structure, and has a major axis (diameter along the major axis) L 1 of approximately 0.05 μm to approximately 20 μm and a minor axis (diameter along the minor axis) L 2 of approximately 0.03 μm to approximately 15 μm. A spindle-shaped particle having L 1 / L 2 of about 1.1 to about 3.3, (ii) a hydrophobic surface treatment filler, and (iii) a pigment and / or other cosmetically acceptable as an optional component Applying a cosmetic powder composition comprising possible ingredients, in particular in the form of a compact powder.

  In this specification, unless otherwise defined, the term “cosmetic use (cosmetic use)” or “cosmetic method” includes so-called cosmetic purposes as well as uses (uses) and methods for aesthetic purposes. . The composition according to the present invention may be a skin make-up or care composition, which is a blusher, eyeshadow, face powder, foundation, concealer, body make-up product, face care product, body care product or anti-sun product. It can be provided in the form. More particularly, the present invention relates to foundation compositions, particularly those in compact form.

In this specification, spindle-shaped means that the spindle-shaped particles have a maximum diameter L 1 along the major axis of about 0.05 μm to about 20 μm, and are perpendicular to the major axis and perpendicular to each other. The sphere is extended in one direction so that it has a minimum diameter L 2 along two minor axes from 0.03 μm to approximately 15 μm, and L 1 / L 2 is approximately 1.1 to approximately 3.3. Means the shape.

Organosilicone materials having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure are preferably of the formula (I): SiO 2 and formula (II): R 1 SiO 1 . It contains 5 units and in fact even consists of these units, where R 1 represents an organic group having a carbon atom bonded directly to a silicon atom. The organic group is a reactive organic or unreactive organic group, but may preferably be an unreactive organic group.

Unreactive organic group, C 1 -C 4 alkyl group which may in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group or a phenyl group, and preferably may be a methyl group.
The reactive organic group can be an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloyloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl, an aminoalkyl or haloalkyl group, a glyceroxy group, a ureido group, or a cyano group. Preferably, the reactive organic group can be an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloyloxy group, an alkenyl group, or a mercaptoalkyl or aminoalkyl group. Reactive organic groups generally contain 2 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

Examples of the epoxy group include 2-glycidoxyethyl group, 3-glycidoxypropyl group, and 2- (3,4-epoxycyclohexyl) propyl group.
Examples of the (meth) acryloyloxy group include a 3-methacryloyloxypropyl group or a 3-acryloyloxypropyl group.
As alkenyl groups, mention may be made of vinyl, allyl or isopropenyl groups.
Examples of the mercaptoalkyl group include a mercaptopropyl group and a mercaptoethyl group.

Examples of the aminoalkyl group include 3-[(2-aminoethyl) amino] propyl group, 3-aminopropyl group, and N, N-dimethylaminopropyl group.
Examples of the haloalkyl group include a 3-chloropropyl group or a trifluoropropyl group.
Examples of the glyceroxy group include a 3-glyceroxypropyl group and a 2-glyceroxyethyl group.
Examples of the ureido group include a 2-ureidoethyl group.
Examples of the cyano group include cyanopropyl and cyanoethyl groups.
Preferably, in the unit of formula (II), R 1 represents a methyl group.
Advantageously, the organosilicone material comprises units (I) and (II) in a unit (I) / unit (II) molar ratio in the range of 30/70 to 50/50, preferably in the range of 35/65 to 45/55. )including.

Organosilicone particles are especially
(A) introducing, in an aqueous medium, a compound of formula SiX 4 (III) and a compound of formula RSiY 3 (IV) in the presence of at least one hydrolysis catalyst and optionally at least one surfactant; where X and Y have independently of one another, C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, alkoxyethoxy group having C 1 -C 4 alkoxy, C 2 -C 4 acyloxy group, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group Represents an N, N-dialkylamino group, a hydroxyl group, a halogen atom or a hydrogen atom, and R represents an organic group having a carbon atom directly bonded to a silicon atom;
(B) contacting the mixture obtained in step (a) with an aqueous solution containing at least one polymerization catalyst and optionally at least one surfactant at a temperature of 30 to 85 ° C. for at least 2 hours. It can be obtained by a method.

Step (a) corresponds to a hydrolysis reaction and step (b) corresponds to a condensation reaction.
In step (a), the molar ratio of compound (III) to compound (IV) is generally in the range of 30/70 to 50/50, advantageously 35/65 to 45/45, preferably 40/60. is there. The weight ratio of water to the total of compound (III) and compound (IV) is preferably in the range of 10/90 to 70/30. The order of introduction of compound (III) and compound (IV) generally depends on their hydrolysis rate. In order to prevent premature condensation of the compound, the temperature of the hydrolysis reaction is generally in the range of 0-40 ° C and usually does not exceed 30 ° C.

For the X and Y groups of compounds (III) and (IV),
C 1 -C 4 alkoxy groups can include methoxy or ethoxy groups;
The alkoxyethoxy group having C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, and a methoxyethoxy or butoxyethoxy group;
C 2 -C 4 acyloxy groups can include acetoxy or propionyloxy groups;
Examples of N, N-dialkylamino groups having a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group include dimethylamino or diethylamino groups;
As a halogen atom, a chlorine or bromine atom can be mentioned.

  Compounds of formula (III) include tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane, tetrabutoxysilane, trimethoxyethoxysilane, tributoxyethoxysilane, tetraacetoxysilane, tetrapropoxysilane, tetra (dimethylamino) silane, tetra (diethylamino) ) Silane, silanetetraol, chlorosilanetriol, dichlorodisianol, tetrachlorosilane or chlorotrihydrosilane. Preferably, the compound of formula (III) is selected from tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane, tetrabutoxysilane and mixtures thereof.

The compound of formula (III) forms the unit of formula (I) after the polymerization reaction.
The compound of formula (IV) forms a unit of formula (II) after the polymerization reaction.
The R group in the compound of formula (IV) has the meaning described for the R 1 group of the compound of formula (II).

  Examples of compounds of formula (IV) containing an unreactive organic group R include methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltributoxysilane, butyltributoxysilane, phenyltrimethoxyethoxysilane, methyltributoxyethoxysilane, Mention may be made of methyltriacetoxysilane, methyltripropoxyoxysilane, methyltri (dimethylamino) silane, methyltri (diethylamino) silane, methylsilanetriol, methylchlorodisilanol, methyltrichlorosilane or methyltrihydrosilane.

As an example of a compound of formula (IV) having a reactive organic group R,
Silanes having an epoxy group such as (3-glycidoxypropyl) trimethoxysilane, (3-glycidoxypropyl) triethoxysilane, [2- (3,4-epoxycyclohexyl) ethyl] trimethoxysilane, ( 3-glycidoxypropyl) methyldimethoxysilane, (2-glycidoxyethyl) methyldimethoxysilane, (3-glycidoxypropyl) dimethylmethoxysilane or (2-glycidoxyethyl) dimethylmethoxysilane;
Silanes having a (meth) acryloyloxy group, such as (3-methacryloyloxypropyl) trimethoxysilane or (3-acryloyloxypropyl) trimethoxysilane;
Silanes having an alkenyl group, such as vinyltrimethoxysilane, allyltrimethoxysilane or isopropenyltrimethoxysilane;
Silanes having a mercapto group, such as mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane or mercaptoethyltrimethoxysilane;
Silanes having an aminoalkyl group, such as (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, (3-[(2-aminoethyl) amino] propyl) trimethoxysilane, (N, N-dimethylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane or (N, N-dimethylaminoethyl) trimethoxysilane;
Silanes having a haloalkyl group, such as (3-chloropropyl) trimethoxysilane or trifluoropropyltrimethoxysilane;
Silanes having a glyceroxy group, such as (3-glyceroxypropyl) trimethoxysilane or di (3-glyceroxypropyl) dimethoxysilane;
Silanes having a ureido group, such as (3-ureidopropyl) trimethoxysilane, (3-ureidopropyl) methyldimethoxysilane or (3-ureidopropyl) dimethylmethoxysilane;
Mention may be made of silanes having a cyano group, for example cyanopropyltrimethoxysilane, cyanopropylmethyldimethoxysilane or cyanopropyldimethylmethoxysilane.

  Preferably, the compound of formula (IV) containing a reactive organic group R is an silane having an epoxy group, a silane having a (meth) acryloyloxy group, a silane having an alkenyl group, a silane having a mercapto group, Alternatively, it is selected from silanes having an aminoalkyl group.

Examples of preferred compounds (III) and (IV) for the practice of the present invention are tetraethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane, respectively.
As hydrolysis and polymerization catalysts, basic catalysts such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, or amines (eg ammonia, trimethylamine, triethylamine or tetramethylammonium hydroxide), or organic acids, For example, an acidic catalyst selected from citric acid, acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, p-toluenesulfonic acid, dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid, or dodecylsulfonic acid, or an inorganic acid such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid is used independently. be able to. When present, the surfactant used is preferably a nonionic or anionic surfactant, or a mixture of the two. Sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate can be used as the anionic surfactant. The end of the hydrolysis can be seen from the disappearance of the water-insoluble products (III) and (IV) and the formation of a uniform liquid layer.

In the condensation stage (b), the same catalyst as in the hydrolysis stage or other catalysts selected from those mentioned above can be used.
When this process is complete, a suspension of fine organosilicone particles is obtained, which can optionally be later separated from the medium. Thus, the process described above may be followed, for example, by filtration of the product obtained in step (b) with a membrane filter and possibly subsequent centrifugation of the filtrate intended to separate the particles from the liquid medium. An additional step of drying the particles may be included. Of course, other separation methods can be used.
The spindle-shaped particles used according to the present invention are those described in JP2003-171465, and in particular the spindle-shaped particles are the same as those exemplified for P1, P2 and P10.

Filler is powder formed from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide, poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, powder formed from tetrafluoroethylene polymer, lauryl lysine, starch, boron nitride, poly (vinylidene chloride) / Polymer hollow microspheres of acrylonitrile or acrylic acid copolymer, silicone resin micro beads, particles made of polyorganosiloxane elastomer, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxide, polyurethane Derived from powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms Metallic soaps such as zinc stearate which, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, may be single or more zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
In certain embodiments, the filler is a lamellar filler selected from talc, mica, kaolin, silica, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a hydrophobically treated talc or mica, or both.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least silicone-treated talc or mica or both.
Hydrophobic treatment agents can be from those for silicone, amino acid and / or fluorination treatment.
Hydrophobic treatment agents include silicones such as methicones, dimethicones or perfluoroalkyl silanes, fatty acids such as stearic acid, metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate or hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphate, Perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, poly (hexafluoropropylene oxide), polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkyl-perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids, N-acylated amino acids or their salts, lecithin, It can be selected from isopropyl triisostearyl titanate and mixtures thereof.
N-acylated amino acids may contain acyl groups having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl groups. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
The term “alkyl” mentioned in the above-mentioned compounds denotes an alkyl group having in particular 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
In certain embodiments, the hydrophobic treatment performed on the filler can be a silicone treatment performed on the filler surface, an amino acid treatment, or both.
In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic treatment performed on the filler is a silicone treatment.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least dimethicone-treated talc, in particular talc sold under the name SI-2 TALC JA-46R by Daito Kasei Kogyo (INCI name, talc (and) dimethicone 98/2). Alternatively, talc sold under the name SA-TA-46R by Miyoshi Kasei (INCI name, talc (and) dimethicone 98/2) can be used.
In another embodiment, the composition comprises at least dimethicone-treated mica, in particular mica sold under the name SA-S-200 by Miyoshi Kasei (INCI name, mica (and) dimethicone 97/3).
In another embodiment, the composition comprises at least an amino acid-treated mica (sericite), such as the mica sold under the name LP-S-100 by Miyoshi Kasei (INCI name, mica (and) palmitoylprolone (and) Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (and) magnesium palmitoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) palmitic acid).
In another embodiment, the composition comprises at least the amino acid talc, such as talc sold under the name LP-TA-46R by Miyoshi Kasei (INCI name, talc (and) palmitoylproline (and) palmitic acid (and) water. Aluminum oxide (and) sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (and) magnesium palmitoyl glutamate).
The composition may comprise a mixture thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic treated filler is 5 to 90% by weight, preferably 10 to 85% by weight, more preferably 20 to 80% by weight and even more preferably 60 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It is.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises
(I) at least 5% to 20% spindle-shaped particles based on the weight of the total composition;
(Ii) at least 5% to 20%, preferably 10% to 15% hydrophobically treated filler, and (iii) optionally pigments and / or other cosmetic ingredients, based on the weight of the total composition ,
Containing.

  Pigments are optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxide, and zinc, iron or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium and ferric blue, or aluminum powder or copper powder, Alternatively, it may be one or more of nanopigments formed from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a hydrophobically treated pigment, in particular a hydrophobically treated titanium dioxide, such as lauroyllysine treated titanium dioxide.

  The term pigment should be understood to mean white or colored inorganic or organic particles in any form that is insoluble in physiological media and intended to color the composition. The pigments can be white and / or colored, inorganic and / or organic.

  According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pigment selected from inorganic pigments. These inorganic pigments can in particular be selected from metal oxide pigments.

  As inorganic pigments, optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxide, and zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium and Mention may be made of ferric blue and metal powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the inorganic pigment, in particular the metal oxide pigment, present in the composition according to the invention is selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and / or iron oxide.

  According to a particular embodiment, the composition may comprise at least two different pigments. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition may comprise at least one first pigment selected from iron oxide and at least one second titanium dioxide pigment.

  In addition to inorganic pigments, the composition according to the invention can comprise organic pigments. Organic pigments include carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.

  The pigment may comprise a goniochromatic pigment. These pigments exhibit a relatively large color change at the viewing angle. The goniochromatic pigment can be selected, for example, from a pigment having a multilayer interference structure and a liquid crystal pigment.

In the case of a multilayer structure, the latter includes, for example, at least two layers, each layer being independent or independent of the other layer (s), for example, at least one selected from the group consisting of: produced from materials: MgF 2, CeF 3, ZnS , ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3, Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, S 2 O 3 , SiO, HfO 2 , ZrO 2 , CeO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , Ta 2 O 5 , TiO 2 , Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2 , cryolite, alloy , Polymers, and combinations thereof.

  Goniochromatic agents having a multilayer structure are described in particular in the following documents: US-A-3438996, EP-A-227423, US-A-5135812, EP-A-170439, EP-A-34002, US-A-4930866, US-A-56441719, EP-A-472371, EP-A-395410, EP-A-735545, EP-A-768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154, EP- A-579091, US-A-5411586, US-A-5364467, WO-A-97 / 39066, DE-A-4225031, WO9517479 (BASF) and DE-A-19614637. They are provided in the form of flakes having a metallic color.

The multilayer structure that can be used in the present invention includes, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Al; MoS 2 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / MoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 ; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 ; MoS 2 / SiO 2 / Mica - oxide / SiO 2 / MoS 2; a Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / mica oxide / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 . Various shades are obtained depending on the thickness of the different layers. Thus, in the case of the structure Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 , in the SiO 2 layer of 320 to 350 nm thickness, gold-green to gray-red; in the SiO 2 layer of 380 to 400 nm thickness from 410~420nm thick purple in the SiO 2 layer of green; gold from the red and the red copper color with 430~440nm thick SiO 2 layer, the color tone is changed.

  Thus, the multilayer structure can be essentially inorganic or organic. Various shades can be obtained depending on the thickness of each of the different layers. The goniochromatic pigments having a multilayer interference structure according to the present invention are, in particular, the following publications: US-A-3438796, EP-A-227423, US-A-5135812, EP-A-170439, EP-A-34002, US -A-4930866, US-A-56441719, EP-A-472371, EP-A-395410, EP-A-735545, EP-A-768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154, EP-A -579091, US-A-5411586, US-A-5364467, WO-A-97 / 39066, DE-A-4225031, WO9517479 (BASF) and DE-A-19614637 and combinations thereof is there. They are provided in the form of flakes having a metallic color.

  Goniochromatic pigments having a multi-layer interference structure include the following commercially available goniochromatic pigments: Infinete Colors from Shiseido, Sicopearl Fantastico from BASF, Colorstream from Merck, Xirallic and Xirona, and a mixture of the Colorlit from the Group of Flex, You can choose from.

  Liquid crystal pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1046692. In particular, as the liquid crystal particles, the CTFA name is polyacrylate-4, and “Helicone (registered trademark) HC Sapphire”, “Helicone (registered trademark) HC Scalaveus”, “Helicone (registered trademark) HC Jade”, “Helicone ( (Registered trademark) HC Maple "," Helicone (registered trademark) HC XL Sapphire "," Helicone (registered trademark) HC XL Scarebeus "," Helicone (registered trademark) HC XL Jade "and" Helicone (registered trademark) HC XL Maple ". You can use what is sold as.

  The pigment is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Yes. According to a preferred embodiment, the lamellar particles and the pigment are present in the composition in a content such that the weight ratio of the lamellar particles to the pigment ranges from 0.1 to 20, preferably from 5 to 15.

  Other cosmetically acceptable ingredients are, for example, waxes, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, humectants, UV screening agents, thickeners, water, surfactants, binders or fragrances. Other cosmetically acceptable ingredients include powdered phases containing spherical solid particles, boron nitride particles, lamellar particles, additional particles, fat binders, waxes, pasty fatty substances, and other additives. There may be one or more.

Additional particles In addition to the lamellar particles described above, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional non-lamellar particle of any shape, for example spherical or elliptical.

  Spherical silica, polyamide (Nylon®) powder, poly-β-alanine powder, polyethylene powder, polyurethane powder, such as hexamethylene diisocyanate and triglyceride sold under the name “Plastic Powder D-400” by Toshiki Powder made of methylol hexyl lactone copolymer, powder made of tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon (registered trademark)), lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymer hollow microspheres, such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industry), or of acrylic acid copolymer, silicone resin powder, in particular silsesquioxane powder (silicone resin powder as described in patent EP293975; for example Toshiba Tospar (Registered trademark)), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, polymethyl methacrylate particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, 8-22 carbon atoms, Metal soaps preferably derived from organic carboxylic acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate; barium sulfate, and mixtures thereof Can be mentioned.

Fat binder The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fat binder. The term fat binder is understood within the meaning of the present application to mean a fatty phase generally comprising at least one oil. This type of fatty phase is particularly used as a dispersion medium for the powdery phase. Advantageously, the fat binder may comprise at least one oil.

The oil can be selected from oils commonly used as binders in loose or compact powders. These oils are in particular-mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil or peanut oil;
-Carbohydrate oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane, or liquid petrolatum;
Fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-palmitate Octyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl myristate, 2-octyldecyl lactate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate or diglyceryl triisostearate;
-Silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorosilicones or perfluorinated oils;
-Higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;
-Higher fatty alcohols such as ketanol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol;
-Formula (I);
(In the above formula,
N represents an integer varying from 5 to 90, in particular from 30 to 80, in particular from 50 to 80,
M represents an integer varying from 1 to 150, in particular from 1 to 80, in particular from 1 to 40;
-A represents an integer varying from 0 to 5;
-Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl group containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms)
A poly (methylfluoroalkyl) (dimethyl) siloxane; and- mixtures thereof.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is a fatty acid such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, lauric acid 2 -Hexyldecyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate or diisostearate Selected from glyceryl.

  According to a more preferred form, the oil is isononyl isononanoate. The oil of the binder can be 10 to 100% by weight with respect to the total weight of the binder. The binder is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Is possible.

Wax and pasty fatty substances The composition according to the invention may also comprise wax and / or pasty fatty substances. The term “wax” in the meaning of the present invention is solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 10 5 Pa), showing a reversible solid / liquid state change, above 30 ° C., It is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound having a melting point in particular ranging from 55 ° C. up to 250 ° C., in particular up to 230 ° C. and even up to 120 ° C.

  When the wax is at its melting point, it is miscible with the oil and can form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but when the temperature of the mixture is restored at ambient temperature, the wax recrystallizes from the oil of the mixture.

  The melting point value is determined in the present invention using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example a calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler at a temperature of 5 or 10 ° C. per minute, Corresponds to the measured melting peak.

  In the sense of the present invention, the wax may be generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. In particular, they can be hydrocarbons, silicones and / or fluorinated waxes, optionally with ester or hydroxyl functionality. They may be naturally derived or synthetically derived.

The following waxes can be mentioned without any particular limitation:
-Beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, ouricurry wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, mollusk and sumach wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite Ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene wax, wax obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis method, and fatty acid esters and glycerides, which are solid at 40 ° C., particularly 55 ° C. or higher,
- linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having, in particular hydrogenated jojoba waxes hydrogenated sunflower wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil And hydrogenated lanolin oil,
-Silicone wax or fluoride wax; and-mixtures thereof.

  According to certain other aspects of the invention, the solid fatty phase may comprise at least one wax selected from carnauba wax, paraffin wax, and mixtures thereof.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the wax present in the composition according to the invention is completely or partially in powder form, in particular micronized form, in order to facilitate its use in the preparation of a cosmetic composition. be able to.

  Waxes that can be used in powder form include Carnauba wax microbeads sold in particular under the name “Microcare 350®” from Micro Powders, and the name “Microease 114S®” from Micro Powders. And paraffin wax microbeads sold on the market. Such additional particulate wax can make it possible to improve the properties, especially when the composition is applied to the skin.

  The waxy and / or pasty fatty substance may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives The composition according to the present invention comprises lipophilic gelling agents and / or thickeners, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, neutralizing agents, sunscreen agents, vitamins, moisturizers, self-suntan compounds, anti-anchores Active agents, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients, agents that resist contamination and free radicals, sequestering agents, film formers, non-elastomeric surfactants, skin release actives, soothing agents, dermis or Agents that stimulate the synthesis of macromolecules of the epidermis and / or prevent their degradation, anti-glycation agents, agents that resist irritation, desquamating agents, depigmentation, anti-pigmentation or pro-coloring agents, NO synthase inhibitors, Specially selected from drugs that stimulate proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, drugs that act on the microcirculation, drugs that act on energy metabolism of cells, healing agents, and mixtures thereof At least one other general cosmetic ingredient that can be selected.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be an anhydrous composition. The term “anhydrous composition” is understood to mean a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, in fact less than 0.5% by weight of water, in particular water-free. It is not added during preparation and corresponds to residual moisture contributed by the mixed ingredients.

The fusiform particles can have cracks along their long axis. Also, the spindle-shaped particles are less than 40% by weight of the powder foundation, preferably about 5% to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 10% to about 15% by weight. The surfactant includes zinc stearate, the binder includes mineral oil or phenyl trimethicone, and the preservative includes phenoxyethanol. Crosslinked polysiloxanes, respectively SiO 2, R 1 SiO 1.5 and R 2 R 3 first is SiO, wherein the second and third siloxane units, wherein R 1, R 2 and R 3 are, silicon Any one of the same or different organic groups having a carbon atom directly bonded to the atom. The molar ratio of the third siloxane unit to the molar sum of the first, second and third siloxane units is approximately 1 to 50 percent.

The molar ratio of the first siloxane unit to the second siloxane unit is approximately 23:77 to 50:60. In the powder composition according to the present invention, at least one of R 1 and R 2 and R 3 is preferably an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloxy group, a mercaptoalkyl group, an aminoalkyl group, or the above-described group. It may be selected from the group consisting of organic groups having any one. According to the present invention, the powder composition can be one of foundation, makeup, loose powder, blusher, eyebrow, mascara, concealer and highlight.

According to the beauty method of the present invention,
The filler treated by the hydrophobic treatment is at least one filler having a plate-like or lamellar form, such as lauroyllysine, mica, talc, boron nitride, kaolin, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, perlite, PTFE, and the like Can be a mixture,
The pigments may optionally be surface-treated titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxide, and zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium, And ferric blue, and metal powder, such as one or more of aluminum powder or copper powder, and mixtures thereof,
Other cosmetically acceptable ingredients may be one or more of waxes, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, humectants, UV screening agents, thickeners, water, surfactants, binders or perfumes.

The present invention also proposes a powder composition, especially in the form of a compact powder, for cosmetic use to provide improved transfer resistance and hiding capability, the composition comprising a hydrophobic treatment In addition to fillers, and optionally pigments and other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, comprise spindle-shaped particles, the spindle-shaped particles being made from an organosilicone having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure, approximately It has a diameter L 1 along the major axis from 0.05 μm to approximately 20 μm and a diameter along the minor axis L 2 from approximately 0.03 μm to approximately 15 μm, and L 1 / L 2 is approximately 1.1 to approximately 3. 3.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises
(I) at least 5% to 20% spindle-shaped particles based on the weight of the total composition;
(Ii) at least 5% to 20%, preferably 10% to 15% of a hydrophobic treatment filler, and (iii) optionally pigments and / or other cosmetic ingredients, based on the weight of the total composition. .

The composition of the present invention also proposes a method of making a powder composition, especially in the form of a compact powder, for cosmetic use to provide improved transfer resistance and hiding capability, The method includes the step of mixing spindle-shaped particles, fillers that have been subjected to hydrophobic treatment, and optionally pigments and other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, wherein the spindle-shaped particles are made from an organosilicone having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure. Fabricated, having a diameter L 1 along the major axis of about 0.05 μm to about 20 μm and a diameter L 2 along the minor axis of about 0.03 μm to about 15 μm, where L 1 / L 2 is about 1. 1 to approximately 3.3.

FIG. 1 is a diagram schematically showing the shape of spindle-shaped particles. FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the color tone range of the method of the present invention. FIG. 3 is a diagram showing a method for measuring transfer resistance. FIG. 4 shows the transferability measurements for various filler treatments and the results of whether spindle-shaped particles have been added. FIG. 5 shows the result of quantitative transfer. FIG. 6 shows a method for measuring the wear coefficient. FIG. 7 shows the results of the wear coefficient measurement.

  Examples of the invention are described below. It should be noted that the examples and their description are provided only to assist in understanding the present invention and should in no way be construed as limiting the invention to the examples described below.

FIG. 1 schematically shows the shape of a spindle-shaped particle. The particles have a rugby ball shape and have a major axis that is longer than any other diameter, and two minor axes that are perpendicular to the major axis and perpendicular to each other. In fact, the two minor axes may be defined in any direction as long as the axis exists in a plane perpendicular to the principal axis. The diameter L 1 along the major axis is about 0.05 μm to about 20 μm, the diameter L 2 along the minor axis is about 0.03 μm to about 15 μm, and L 1 / L 2 is about 1.1 to about 3 .3. As can be seen from FIG. 1, the particles used in the experiments described below have grooves in the plane along the long axis. However, the groove is not always necessary.

Table 1 below shows the forms of the particles (SP9) according to the present invention having a spindle shape, the comparative particles (SP10) having a bowl shape, and the spherical particles (SP11-SP15). Their particle size and oil and water absorbency are also shown in Table 1.
* Spindle-like silicone particles similar to those disclosed in JP-A No. 2003-171465. Unless otherwise defined, the same definition applies in other cases.

Table 2 shows each one component of the composition. The composition includes elements that are typical in cosmetic compositions.

Table 3 below shows the results of sensory evaluation of the composition. The composition was applied to 11 models and the models were evaluated for several criteria (skin fit, uniformity, coverage, concealed pores and wrinkles, persistence). The SP9 results are distinguished by an assessment that they are better in “skin fit” and “application area” than other compositions in which spherical fillers are used.

When applied to a skin surface that may have defects and, in particular, pores and / or wrinkles on the facial skin, the coverage of the composition was determined according to the contrast ratio calculated by the following formula:
(In the above formula, L black and L white indicate the brightness of the black and white samples to which the composition is applied, respectively)

In addition, the inventor conducted an additional comparative test using an untreated filler, and confirmed the importance of the hydrophobic treated filler shown in Table 4 in the present invention. The filler is preferably 10 to 85% by weight, more preferably 20 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
FIG. 4 shows the transferability of a composition comprising either hydrophobic treated or untreated filler. As shown in FIG. 4, the best results were obtained when the hydrophobic treated filler was used in conjunction with the spindle-shaped particles.

The inventors also tested with various proportions of spindle-shaped particles (5%, 10% and 15%), and as shown in Table 5, any of 5%, 10% and 15% spindle-shaped particles are good. Results were obtained.
* Spindle-shaped silicone particles disclosed in JP-A No. 2003-171465.
FIG. 5 shows the transfer characteristics of a composition comprising 5%, 10%, 25% fusiform particles associated with hydrophobic treated particles. According to this result, the composition of 5-15% rugby ball (spindle-like silicone particles) in the hydrophobic treatment formulation is effective for transfer resistance, and even better results are shown in FIG. And 10 and 15% with respect to transfer resistance.

  FIG. 2 shows that SP9 containing spindle-shaped particles is not added with spindle-shaped particles, but instead SP8 in which the amount of surface-treated talc is increased, and silicone gum together with silicone resin is spindle-shaped. Compared with SP11 added instead of particles, it shows a good hiding property or concealer ability. The results of other compositions are inferior.

  FIG. 3 shows a method for measuring the transferability of the composition. The composition to be tested is applied to the surface of the bioskin and another layer, such as Supplare, is applied to the bioskin surface to which the composition has been applied with a predetermined weight of 1424 g, pressed, and then from the bioskin Measure the amount of composition transferred to Supplare.

FIG. 4 shows the results of this measurement. The three bars on the left side of the graph indicate the amount of composition transferred (difference from bare supple) by the vertical axis, which composition contains neither spherical nor fusiform particles (SP8). ΔE indicated by the vertical axis is defined by the following equation:
The three bars correspond to compositions containing untreated filler, silicone treated filler and amino acid treated filler, respectively, the latter two being hydrophobic surface treatments. The three bars in the center of the graph indicate the amount of composition transferred for the composition containing spherical particles (SP11), and the rightmost bar is the composition containing spindle-shaped particles (SP9: composition according to the present invention). ) To the amount of transferred composition. It is clearly observed that the combination of spindle-shaped particles and hydrophobic surface-treated filler (silicone-treated or amino acid-treated filler) represented in the two rightmost bars has the lowest transferability. Thus, the test data shows that the combination of spindle-shaped particles and hydrophobic treatment filler provides the best non-transfer performance.

  FIG. 5 shows how the non-transferability of the composition is related to the amount of spindle-shaped particles contained in the composition. It is observed that the amount of composition transferred decreases as the proportion of fusiform particles increases from 5% to 15% by weight of the compound.

  FIG. 6 shows how the coefficient of friction of a composition with and without various particles was measured. A 2 mm thick bioskin to which the composition to be tested is applied is placed on a glass slide and the other bioskin is placed between the first and second bioskins on the side where the composition is applied. Press onto the first bioskin. The first bioskin is then secured to the glass slide and the second bioskin is pulled to measure the frictional force acting between the two bioskin surfaces.

  FIG. 7 shows the results of the above-described friction coefficient measurement. SP9, which is a composition according to the present invention, exhibits the smallest coefficient of friction next to SP12 and SP15 that both contain spherical silica particles instead of spindle-shaped particles.

  As now becomes clear from the above test data, cosmetic compositions comprising spindle-shaped particles and a filler with a hydrophobic surface treatment, such as silicone treatment or amino acid treatment, can cause skin defects such as pores and / or wrinkles. It exhibits improved properties with respect to hiding, and further, when applied, exhibits desirable characteristics for cosmetic applications such as transfer resistance and smoothness.

Claims (11)

  1. In a cosmetic method for concealing skin defects, in particular facial skin pores and / or wrinkles, at least (i) an organosilicone having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure, a major axis L 1 of from about 0.05 μm to about 20 μm; Spindle-shaped particles having a short diameter L 2 of about 0.03 μm to about 15 μm and L 1 / L 2 of about 1.1 to about 3.3, (ii) a hydrophobic surface treatment filler, and optional components (Iii) A method comprising applying a cosmetic powder composition comprising pigments and / or other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, in particular in the form of a compact powder.
  2.   The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the spindle-shaped particle has a crack along its long axis.
  3.   The cosmetic method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the spindle-shaped particles are 5 to 20% by weight, preferably 10 to 15% by weight, of the powder composition.
  4.   The filler is a non-spherical filler having a plate-like or lamellar form, such as lauroyl lysine, mica, talc, boron nitride, kaolin, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, perlite, PTFE, and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic method according to any one of the above.
  5.   The cosmetic method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the filler is mica, talc, or a mixture thereof.
  6.   The filler is 5 to 90% by weight, preferably 10 to 85% by weight, more preferably 20 to 80% by weight, and even more preferably 60 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic method according to any one of the above.
  7.   The cosmetic method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the hydrophobic treatment of the filler is a silicone treatment, an amino acid, a fluorination treatment, preferably a silicone treatment or an amino acid treatment performed on the filler surface.
  8.   The pigment may be surface treated titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxide, and zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium and ferric blue, and Including one or more of metal powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder, and mixtures thereof; other cosmetically acceptable ingredients include waxes, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, humectants, UV screening agents, The cosmetic method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising one or more of a sticky agent, water, a surfactant, a binder or a fragrance.
  9. The cross-linked polysiloxane includes first, second and third siloxane units which are SiO 2 , R 1 SiO 1.5 and R 2 R 3 SiO, respectively, wherein R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are The cosmetic method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the cosmetic method is any one of the same or different organic groups having a carbon atom directly bonded to a silicon atom.
  10.   The powder composition is a skin make-up or care product in the form of a blusher, eye shadow, face powder, foundation, concealer, body make-up product, face care product, body care product, or anti-sun product. The cosmetic method as described in any one of 1-9.
  11.   A cosmetic method according to the preceding claim, wherein the composition is applied to human skin having skin defects, in particular pores and / or wrinkles.
JP2013513472A 2010-09-29 2010-09-29 Beauty method to hide skin defects Withdrawn JP2013539745A (en)

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