JP2005299046A - Mixed product of polyester fiber and protein fiber - Google Patents

Mixed product of polyester fiber and protein fiber Download PDF

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JP2005299046A
JP2005299046A JP2004120278A JP2004120278A JP2005299046A JP 2005299046 A JP2005299046 A JP 2005299046A JP 2004120278 A JP2004120278 A JP 2004120278A JP 2004120278 A JP2004120278 A JP 2004120278A JP 2005299046 A JP2005299046 A JP 2005299046A
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fiber
dyeing
yarn
protein
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Kiyoshi Yoshida
義田  潔
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Asahi Kasei Corp
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Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a mixed dyed product having a soft and flexible feeling and also having high color development, and providing good color uniformity and excellent color fastness by mixing a modified polyethylene terephthalate with a protein fiber. <P>SOLUTION: The subject mixed product is obtained by mixing the easily dyeable polyester fiber comprising a polyester obtained by copolymerizing 3-8 wt.% polyethylene glycol having 300-2,000 molecular weigh with a polyethylene terephthalate and containing ≥90 wt.% ethylene terephthalate repeating unit, having a W-shaped cross section of a single fiber, satisfying the condition (1): 2≤ovality≤4, and having the temperature (Tmax) exhibiting the maximum of a dynamic loss tangent (tanδ) at 110 Hz measure frequency within the range of the condition (2): 85°C≤(Tmax)≤105°C, with the protein fiber. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

本発明はポリエステル繊維とタンパク繊維との混用品に関するものである。さらに詳しくは、特定の易染性ポリエステルを混用することによりタンパク繊維を痛めずに本来の風合、物性を最大限に発揮し、且つポリエステルの機能性を兼備したポリエステル繊維とタンパク繊維との混用布帛の染色製品に関するものである。   The present invention relates to a mixed article of polyester fiber and protein fiber. More specifically, by mixing specific easily-dyeable polyester, the protein fiber can be used to maximize its original texture and physical properties without damaging the protein fiber, and the polyester fiber that combines the functionality of the polyester and protein fiber can be used together. The present invention relates to a fabric dyeing product.

ウール、シルクに代表される天然タンパク繊維からなる布帛は、常圧染色ができ、染色性がよく、風合や色調に優れている反面、バルキー性、原糸強度が乏しいうえにウオッシュアンドウエア性、プリーツ性、寸法安定性、黄変性、防虫、防カビ性等の機能性が欠如している。このため、たんぱく系繊維に欠けているこれらの機能性に優れたポリエステルを混用してこれらの欠点を補うことが行われている。
ポリエステル繊維はたんぱく系繊維の欠点を補い得るものであるが、ポリエステル繊維の難染性がゆえタンパク繊維と同等条件で染色すると、ポリエステル繊維は発色性が著しく低く、それゆえタンパク繊維との同色性は得られない。一方、通常のポリエステル繊維の染色温度である130〜135℃の高温で染色するとタンパク繊維との同色性は得やすくなるが、該条件ではタンパク繊維は脆化し、強度、伸度等の物性が大きく低下するとともに、風合が損なわれるばかりか大きな黄化着色が発生するなどの問題が発生する。また、常圧下でキャリヤー剤を用いて染色した場合には、タンパク繊維への分散染料による汚染が増大するとともに染色堅牢度の低下や、繊維中の脱キャリヤー処理がし難い、キャリヤー臭による作業環境の低下等の問題が発生する。
Fabrics made from natural protein fibers, such as wool and silk, can be dyed at normal pressure, have good dyeability and excellent texture and color, but have poor bulkiness and yarn strength and wash and wear properties. It lacks functionality such as pleatability, dimensional stability, yellowing, insect repellent and fungicide. For this reason, mixing these polyesters excellent in functionality lacking in protein fibers to compensate for these drawbacks has been performed.
Polyester fibers can compensate for the shortcomings of protein fibers, but when dyed under the same conditions as protein fibers, polyester fibers have a very low color developability due to the difficulty of polyester fibers, and are therefore the same color as protein fibers. Cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when dyeing at a high temperature of 130 to 135 ° C., which is a normal polyester fiber dyeing temperature, it is easy to obtain the same color as protein fibers, but under these conditions, protein fibers become brittle and have large physical properties such as strength and elongation. In addition to being lowered, the texture is not only impaired, but also problems such as large yellowing occur. In addition, when dyeing with a carrier agent under normal pressure, contamination by protein-dispersed dyes increases, dyeing fastness decreases, and it is difficult to remove the carrier in the fiber. Problems such as lowering of the level occur.

そこでタンパク繊維の脆化をおこさせない温度領域で染色可能な常圧可染型ポリエステル繊維として、ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を5モル%以上共重合したカチオン染料可染型ポリエステル繊維の製造法が特許文献1、2に開示されている。しかしながら、染色性は高められるものの原糸強度が低く、伸縮回復性が乏しく、ソフトでしなやかな風合は得られなく、耐薬品性が低く、カチオン染料の耐光堅牢度が乏しく、カチオン染料の染色機への汚染が大きい等の問題がある。
また、ポリエチレングリコールの共重合による易染性ポリエステル繊維の製造法が特許文献3に開示されている。しかしながら、染色性は良好なものの原糸での沸水収縮率が高く、原糸使いにおいてはソフトでしなやかな風合が得られない、原糸が黄変しやすく淡色系においては鮮明性が得られない等の問題がある。
Therefore, as a normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber that can be dyed in a temperature range that does not cause embrittlement of protein fibers, a method for producing a cationic dyeable polyester fiber obtained by copolymerization of 5 mol% or more of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is disclosed in Patent Document 1. 2. However, although the dyeability is improved, the yarn strength is low, the stretch recovery is poor, the soft and supple texture is not obtained, the chemical resistance is low, the light fastness of the cationic dye is poor, and the cationic dye is dyed. There are problems such as large contamination of the machine.
Patent Document 3 discloses a method for producing easily dyeable polyester fibers by copolymerization of polyethylene glycol. However, although the dyeability is good, the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the raw yarn is high, a soft and supple texture cannot be obtained when using the raw yarn, the raw yarn is prone to yellowing, and sharpness is obtained in a light-colored system. There are problems such as not.

さらに、5000〜8000m/分の高速紡糸により繊維内部の構造をかえた易染性ポリエステル繊維の製造法が特許文献4、5に開示されている。これらの高速紡糸によるポリエステル繊維は従来のポリエステル繊維に比べ易染性になっているものの完全な常圧可染とはいいがたく、濃色に染色するには、110〜120℃の染色温度が必要であり、タンパク繊維の脆化は免れなく、しかもソフトでしなやかな風合は得られない等の問題がある。
従って、現状ではポリエステル繊維の発色性とタンパク繊維の物性との兼ね合いから妥協点を見出した染色条件が採用されているが、しかるに分散染料で染色した場合、タンパク繊維は分散染料により過度に汚染され、その汚染性がコントロールできないことから染色時の色ブレが大きく、ポリエステル繊維との同色性が悪い問題などがある。しかも染色された混用布帛はタンパク繊維への分散染料の汚染が大きいことから染色堅牢度が低下するという問題やポリエステル繊維の発色性が低く、イラツキとよばれる欠点があり、品質の悪い染色製品しか得られていないのが実状である。
Furthermore, Patent Documents 4 and 5 disclose methods for producing easily dyeable polyester fibers in which the structure inside the fibers is changed by high-speed spinning at 5000 to 8000 m / min. Polyester fibers produced by these high-speed spinning are easier to dye than conventional polyester fibers, but are not completely normal pressure dyeable. For dyeing in dark colors, a dyeing temperature of 110 to 120 ° C is required. There is a problem that protein fiber embrittlement is inevitable and soft and supple texture cannot be obtained.
Therefore, under the present circumstances, dyeing conditions that have found a compromise from the balance between the color developability of the polyester fiber and the physical properties of the protein fiber are employed. However, when dyed with a disperse dye, the protein fiber is excessively contaminated by the disperse dye. Since the stainability cannot be controlled, there are problems such as large color blurring at the time of dyeing and poor color matching with polyester fibers. In addition, the dyed mixed fabric has a problem that the fastness of dyeing decreases due to the large contamination of the disperse dye to the protein fiber, and the color development of the polyester fiber is low. The actual situation is not obtained.

特公昭61−17939号公報Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-17939 特開昭61−34022号公報JP-A-61-34022 特許2870769号公報Japanese Patent No. 2870769 特公平1−15610号公報Japanese Patent Publication No. 1-15610 特開昭59−59911号公報JP 59-59911 A

本発明は、改質されたポリエステル繊維とタンパク繊維を混用することにより、ポリエステル繊維の発色性が高く、同色性が良好で染色堅牢度性能の高いソフトでしなやかな風合を有するポリエステル繊維とタンパク繊維との混用染色製品を提供することを目的とする。   In the present invention, polyester fiber and protein having a soft and supple texture with high color developability, good color matching, high dyeing fastness performance by mixing modified polyester fiber and protein fiber. An object is to provide a dyed product mixed with fiber.

本発明者は、タンパク繊維に混用するポリエステル繊維について鋭意研究を行った結果、ポリエチレンテレフタレートに分子量300〜2000のポリエチレングリコールを3〜8重量%共重合したポリエステルを5000m/分以上の巻き取り速度で紡糸したポリエステル繊維をタンパク系繊維と混用した布帛が上記課題を解決することを見出し、更に検討した結果、本発明をなすに至った。
すなわち本発明は、ポリエチレンテレフタレートに分子量300〜2000のポリエチレングリコールを3〜8重量%共重合したポリエステルで、90重量%以上がエチレンテレフタレート繰り返し単位からなるポリエチレンテレフタレートからなり、単糸の断面形状がW字状で、下記の条件(1)を満足するポリエステル繊維であって、測定周波数110Hzにおける力学的損失正接(tanδ)が最大を示す温度(Tmax)が、下記(2)で示される範囲にあることを特徴とする易染性ポリエステル繊維とタンパク繊維との混用染色品である。
(1) 2≦扁平度≦4
(2) 85℃≦(Tmax)≦105℃
As a result of earnest research on polyester fibers to be mixed with protein fibers, the present inventor has found that a polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 3 to 8% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 300 to 2000 is wound at a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more. As a result of finding out that a fabric in which a spun polyester fiber is mixed with a protein-based fiber solves the above-mentioned problems and further studying it, the present invention has been made.
That is, the present invention is a polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 3 to 8% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 300 to 2000, 90% by weight or more of polyethylene terephthalate composed of ethylene terephthalate repeating units, and the cross-sectional shape of a single yarn is W A temperature (Tmax) that is a polyester fiber that satisfies the following condition (1) and has the maximum mechanical loss tangent (tan δ) at a measurement frequency of 110 Hz is in the range indicated by (2) below. This is a mixed dyed product of easily dyeable polyester fiber and protein fiber.
(1) 2 ≦ Flatness ≦ 4
(2) 85 ° C. ≦ (Tmax) ≦ 105 ° C.

ポリエチレンテレフタレートに分子量300〜2000のポリエチレングリコールを3〜8重量%共重合した単糸の断面形状がW字状のポリエステルを5000m/分以上の巻き取り速度で紡糸した易染性ポリエステル繊維とタンパク繊維を混用することでポリエステル繊維の発色性が高く、同色性が良好で染色堅牢度が高くソフトでしなやかな風合を有する混用染色製品が得られる効果を有する。   Easy-dyeable polyester fibers and protein fibers obtained by spinning polyester having a W-shaped cross section of polyethylene terephthalate with 3 to 8% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 300 to 2000 and spinning at a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more. By mixing the polyester fiber, it is possible to obtain a mixed dyeing product having high color developability of the polyester fiber, good color matching, high dyeing fastness, soft and supple texture.

本発明について、以下に詳細に説明する。
本発明における共重合成分として用いるポリエチレングリコールは、繊維の非晶構造に適当な乱れを起こすし、染色性の向上に寄与するものである。
ポリエチレングリコールの分子量が300未満の場合には、本発明でいう動的粘弾性測定から求められる力学的損失正接(tanδ)のピーク温度(以下、Tmaxと称す)が106℃以上となりタンパク繊維と混用した時の風合としてソフトでしなやかさが得られない。またポリエステル繊維の発色性が低く、タンパク繊維との同色性は得られない。しかも、ポリエチレンテレフタレートは真空下での重合のため分子量が300未満のポリエチレングリコールの場合、一部がプロダクト系外に飛散してしまい、ポリマー組成が不安定となる。一方、ポリエチレングリコールの分子量が2000を越えた場合、ブロック共重合にともない超高分子成分が増大し、紡糸性が不良となるばかりか、染色堅牢度、耐光性の低下が顕在化するため好ましくない。
The present invention will be described in detail below.
Polyethylene glycol used as a copolymerization component in the present invention causes an appropriate disturbance in the amorphous structure of the fiber and contributes to an improvement in dyeability.
When the molecular weight of polyethylene glycol is less than 300, the peak temperature (hereinafter referred to as Tmax) of the mechanical loss tangent (tan δ) obtained from the dynamic viscoelasticity measurement referred to in the present invention is 106 ° C. or higher and is mixed with protein fibers. Soft and supple as the texture when you do it. In addition, the color developability of the polyester fiber is low, and the same color as the protein fiber cannot be obtained. Moreover, since polyethylene terephthalate is a polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of less than 300 due to polymerization under vacuum, a part of the polyethylene terephthalate is scattered outside the product system and the polymer composition becomes unstable. On the other hand, when the molecular weight of polyethylene glycol exceeds 2000, the ultra-high molecular component increases with block copolymerization, which not only results in poor spinnability but also undesirably deteriorates the dyeing fastness and light resistance. .

また、ポリエチレングリコールの共重合量が3重量%未満の場合には、Tmaxが106℃以上となりタンパク繊維と混用した場合の風合としてのソフトでしなやかさが得られない。またポリエステル繊維の発色性が低く、タンパク繊維との同色性が不良となる。一方、8重量%を越える場合には、Tmaxが85℃未満となりタンパク系繊維と混用した場合の風合としてのソフトでしなやかさは得られない。また、染色性は十分であるもののポリマーの色調が悪化し、5000m/分以上の巻き取り速度においては、糸切れや毛羽の発生が多くなり、紡糸安定が不良となり生産が困難となる。また製糸されたフィラメントは耐光堅牢度、染色堅牢度が悪化し好ましくない。
本発明の易染性ポリエステル繊維は、その単糸の断面形状がW字状で、扁平度が2.0以上4.0以下であることが必要である。これはこの範囲で本発明が求めるソフトでしやなかな風合に優れた布帛が得られるからである。また常圧染色における発色性が向上するからである。扁平度が2.0未満の場合、比表面積が丸断面糸と近似するためソフトな風合は得られず、常圧染色における染料の吸尽速度が遅く発色性も不十分である。一方、扁平度が4.0を超えると単なる扁平糸に近くなり布帛の風合はペーパーライクとなり、イラツキ感のある光沢となり好ましくない。扁平度の好ましい範囲は2.5〜3.5の範囲である。
Further, when the copolymerization amount of polyethylene glycol is less than 3% by weight, Tmax becomes 106 ° C. or higher, and softness and flexibility as a texture when mixed with protein fibers cannot be obtained. Moreover, the color developability of the polyester fiber is low, and the same color as the protein fiber is poor. On the other hand, when it exceeds 8% by weight, Tmax is less than 85 ° C., and softness and flexibility as a texture when mixed with protein fiber cannot be obtained. Further, although the dyeability is sufficient, the color tone of the polymer is deteriorated, and at a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more, yarn breakage and fluff are frequently generated, and spinning stability becomes poor and production becomes difficult. In addition, the filament produced is not preferable because light fastness and dyeing fastness deteriorate.
The easily dyeable polyester fiber of the present invention needs to have a W-shaped cross section of a single yarn and a flatness of 2.0 or more and 4.0 or less. This is because a soft and supple fabric with excellent texture can be obtained in this range. Moreover, it is because the color developability in normal pressure dyeing improves. When the flatness is less than 2.0, the specific surface area approximates that of a round cross-section yarn, so that a soft texture cannot be obtained, the dye exhaustion rate in atmospheric dyeing is slow, and the color developability is insufficient. On the other hand, when the flatness exceeds 4.0, it becomes close to a mere flat yarn, and the texture of the fabric becomes paper-like, which is not preferable because it gives an irritating gloss. A preferred range of flatness is in the range of 2.5 to 3.5.

本発明では、W字状断面の各凹部の開口角度が100〜150度であることが好ましい。開口角度は、断面形状の鋭利さを意味し、角度が小さい程断面が鋭利であり、角度が大きい程鈍調である。開口角度が100度未満では、延伸仮撚の際にW断面の変形が大きく、W断面形状の持つ溝の多くが潰れてしまい、ソフトな風合は得られず、発色性も不十分である。一方、開口角度が150度を越えても風合、発色性が不十分である。
ポリエステル繊維を高度に異型化し風合、染色性改善改善方法として単糸断面をY型断面、十字型断面、H型断面、星型断面等にするものがあるが、高度に異型化することで染色性は改善されるが、布帛の風合が硬いという致命的欠点が顕在化するのである。また、凹部を3個所以上持たせる方法もあるが、W断面同様に風合、染色性も改善されるが、凹部の増加により紡糸ノズルの吐出線速度が低下し、紡糸安定性が低下するので好ましくない。本発明では、単糸断面形状をW字断面とする事によりソフトでしなやかな風合が得られ、発色性が向上し、紡糸安定性に優れたポリエステル繊維が得られることを見出した。
本発明の易染性ポリエステル繊維は、動的粘弾性測定から求められる損失正接のピーク温度(Tmax)が85〜105℃であることが必要である。これは、この範囲で本発明が求めるナイロンに近いソフトでしなやかな風合が確保できるばかりか、染色性が高まり、タンパク繊維への分散染料の汚染量が少なくなり、汚染度が60以下にコントロールでき、同色性、染色堅牢度が良好となる。またTmaxは、非晶部の分子の移動性に対応するものであり、この値が小さくなるほど染料が非晶部に入りやすくなり染色性が高まる。Tmaxが85℃未満では原糸での力学物性や、耐熱性の低下の問題があり、一方、Tmaxが105℃を越えると染色性が低下し、より高い温度での染色が必要となるのでタンパク繊維の脆化の問題が発生する。Tmaxの特に好ましい範囲は90〜100℃である。
また、Tmaxほど重要な条件ではないが、Tmaxにおける損失正接の値(tanδmax)は0.13〜0.22の範囲であることが好ましい。損失正接の値は非晶量に対応しており、この範囲から外れると本発明で得られる風合の悪化や染色性、染色堅牢度が悪化するばかりか色の再現性が悪くなる惧れがある。
In this invention, it is preferable that the opening angle of each recessed part of a W-shaped cross section is 100-150 degree | times. The opening angle means the sharpness of the cross-sectional shape. The smaller the angle, the sharper the cross-section, and the larger the angle, the slower. When the opening angle is less than 100 degrees, deformation of the W cross section is large during drawing false twisting, and many of the grooves of the W cross section shape are crushed, a soft texture cannot be obtained, and color development is insufficient. . On the other hand, even if the opening angle exceeds 150 degrees, the texture and color developability are insufficient.
Polyester fibers are highly atypically modified to improve texture and dyeability, and the single yarn cross section is changed to a Y cross section, cross-shaped cross section, H cross section, star cross section, etc. Although the dyeability is improved, a fatal defect that the fabric has a hard texture becomes obvious. Also, there is a method of having three or more recesses, but the texture and dyeing properties are improved as in the W cross section, but the increase in the recesses decreases the discharge linear velocity of the spinning nozzle and lowers the spinning stability. It is not preferable. In the present invention, it has been found that a soft and supple texture can be obtained by making the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn into a W-shaped cross section, color development is improved, and a polyester fiber excellent in spinning stability can be obtained.
The easily dyeable polyester fiber of the present invention needs to have a loss tangent peak temperature (Tmax) determined by dynamic viscoelasticity measurement of 85 to 105 ° C. In this range, not only can a soft and supple texture similar to the nylon required by the present invention be ensured, but also the dyeing property is improved, the amount of disperse dyes on protein fibers is reduced, and the degree of contamination is controlled to 60 or less. The same color and fastness to dyeing can be obtained. Tmax corresponds to the mobility of molecules in the amorphous part. The smaller this value, the easier the dye enters the amorphous part and the higher the dyeability. If Tmax is less than 85 ° C, there is a problem that the mechanical properties and heat resistance of the raw yarn are lowered. On the other hand, if Tmax exceeds 105 ° C, the dyeability is lowered and dyeing at a higher temperature is required. The problem of fiber embrittlement occurs. A particularly preferable range of Tmax is 90 to 100 ° C.
Although not as important as Tmax, the loss tangent value (tan δmax) at Tmax is preferably in the range of 0.13 to 0.22. The value of loss tangent corresponds to the amount of amorphous material, and if it is out of this range, not only the texture, dyeability, and color fastness obtained in the present invention will deteriorate, but also the color reproducibility may deteriorate. is there.

次に本発明の易染性ポリエステル繊維の製造法について述べる。
本発明でいうポリエステル繊維とは構成単位の少なくとも90%以上がエチレンテレフタレートであり、前記のポリエチレングリコール成分以外にも5モル%以下の他の成分を共重合していてもよい。例えば、ペンタエリスリトール、トリメチロールプロパン、トリメリット酸、ホウ酸等の鎖分岐剤を小割合重合したものであってもよい。
また、前記の共重合成分の他に通常のエステル交換触媒、重合触媒、リン化合物、二酸化チタン等の艶消し剤、着色防止剤、酸化分解防止剤、消泡剤、ケイ光増白剤、顔料などを必要に応じて含有させてもよい。
本発明の易染性ポリエステル繊維を構成するポリマーの重合方法は、公知の方法を採用することができる。すなわち、ポリエチレングリコールはテレフタル酸、エチレングリコール等と反応させてもよく、あるいはテレフタル酸ジメチルとエチレングリコールをエステル交換反応を行った後に反応させてもよく、ポリエステルの重合反応が完了する任意の段階で添加してもよい。また、現在工業生産が行われているバッチ重合法、連続重合法のいずれも適用できる。
Next, the manufacturing method of the easily dyeable polyester fiber of this invention is described.
The polyester fiber as used in the present invention is at least 90% of the structural unit is ethylene terephthalate, and may be copolymerized with other components of 5 mol% or less in addition to the polyethylene glycol component. For example, a polymer obtained by polymerizing a small amount of a chain branching agent such as pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, trimellitic acid, boric acid or the like may be used.
In addition to the copolymer components described above, ordinary transesterification catalysts, polymerization catalysts, phosphorus compounds, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, coloring inhibitors, oxidative decomposition inhibitors, antifoaming agents, fluorescent whitening agents, pigments Etc. may be contained as necessary.
A well-known method can be employ | adopted for the polymerization method of the polymer which comprises the easily dyeable polyester fiber of this invention. That is, polyethylene glycol may be reacted with terephthalic acid, ethylene glycol or the like, or may be reacted after transesterification of dimethyl terephthalate and ethylene glycol, at any stage where the polyester polymerization reaction is completed. It may be added. In addition, any of the batch polymerization method and the continuous polymerization method that are currently being industrially produced can be applied.

本発明の易染性ポリエステル繊維は、5000m/分以上の巻き取り速度で紡糸する高速紡糸法によってのみ得ることができる。5000m/分以下の巻き取り速度で得られた糸では製織製編工程において伸張が起こり、染斑や布帛の品質低下を頻発するため実用上の障害となる。一方、当該共重合ポリエステルを通常法や直延法を用いて繊維化しても動的粘弾性の測定から求められる損失正接のピーク温度(Tmax)が85〜105℃の範囲外となり、タンパク繊維と混用した時の風合としてのソフトでしなやかさは得られない。また染色バッチごとの色の再現性も不良となる。これは高速紡糸で得た繊維の非晶部分の配向が通常法や直延法で得た繊維のそれよりもはるかに小さいことに起因する。特に、本発明で用いるポリマーは非晶部分に適度に分子鎖の長いポリエチレングリコールを有するので、非晶部の配向が一層低下し、染色性が向上するばかりかソフトでしなやかな風合がいっそう助長され、しかも力学物性に優れた画期的な繊維となる。   The easily dyeable polyester fiber of the present invention can be obtained only by a high-speed spinning method in which spinning is performed at a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more. Yarns obtained at a winding speed of 5000 m / min or less are stretched in the weaving and knitting process, causing frequent spotting and deterioration in the quality of the fabric. On the other hand, the loss tangent peak temperature (Tmax) obtained from the measurement of dynamic viscoelasticity is out of the range of 85 to 105 ° C. even if the copolymerized polyester is fiberized by a normal method or a straight-roll method, and protein fibers and It is soft and soft as a texture when mixed. Also, the color reproducibility for each dyeing batch is poor. This is due to the fact that the orientation of the amorphous portion of the fiber obtained by high speed spinning is much smaller than that of the fiber obtained by the ordinary method or the straight-roll method. In particular, since the polymer used in the present invention has polyethylene glycol having a moderately long molecular chain in the amorphous part, the orientation of the amorphous part is further lowered, and the dyeing property is improved, and the soft and supple texture is further promoted. In addition, it is a revolutionary fiber with excellent mechanical properties.

本発明においてソフトでしなやかな風合を付与するために単糸形状をW断面とし、高速紡糸法において製糸した場合、糸切れ、毛羽が多発することが明らかとなった。この事態を回避するため発明者らは鋭意研究を重ねた結果、図1および図2に示す通り、紡口ランド部形状を楕円形とすることで、単糸断面形状がW字状であっても紡糸時の断糸、ケバ等欠点の少ない高品位のポリエステル繊維が得られることを見出した。糸切れ、毛羽が多発する原因は定かではないが、単糸形状がW断面で紡口ランド部形状が真円の場合、ランド部にて異常滞留が生じ、ポリマーの熱劣化による粘度低下物がフィラメントに混入し、糸切れ、毛羽が多発したものと考えられる。特に5000m/分以上の高速紡糸の場合、ポリマーの粘度変動や触媒、添加剤の凝集等の影響を受けやすいため、ポリマー重合段階および製糸工程において細心の注意をはらう必要がある。特に本発明の場合、易染性を付与するためにポリエチレングリコールを共重合しており、耐熱性においては通常ポリエチレンテレフタレートに比べ劣るため、重合工程および紡糸工程においては異常滞留を極力防止する必要がある。
紡口ランド部の楕円形状は、図2に示す如く、楕円に外接する長方形の長辺と短辺の比が1.2〜3.5の範囲にあることが必要となる。長辺と短辺の比が1.2未満あるいは3.5を超える場合は、本発明の狙いとする紡糸時の断糸、ケバ等欠点の少ない高品位なポリエステル繊維は得られない。原因は定かではないが、長辺と短辺の比が1.2未満あるいは3.5を越えた場合、紡口ノズル形状とランド部形状とが不均衡となりランド部にポリマー長期滞留箇所が生じ、長期滞留によるポリマー粘度低下物がフィラメントに混入するため断糸や毛羽が生ずるものと推察される。
In the present invention, in order to give a soft and supple texture, it has been clarified that yarn breakage and fluff frequently occur when the single yarn shape is made into a W cross section and the yarn is produced by the high speed spinning method. In order to avoid this situation, the inventors have conducted intensive research and as a result, as shown in FIG. 1 and FIG. It has also been found that high-quality polyester fibers with few defects such as yarn breakage and knurls during spinning can be obtained. The cause of frequent yarn breakage and fluff is not clear, but when the single yarn shape is a W cross section and the shape of the spout land portion is a perfect circle, abnormal stagnation occurs in the land portion, and there is a decrease in viscosity due to thermal degradation of the polymer. It is thought that thread breakage and fluff frequently occurred in the filament. In particular, in the case of high-speed spinning at 5000 m / min or more, since it is easily affected by fluctuations in the viscosity of the polymer, aggregation of the catalyst and additives, etc., it is necessary to pay close attention in the polymer polymerization stage and the spinning process. Particularly in the case of the present invention, polyethylene glycol is copolymerized to impart easy dyeability, and heat resistance is usually inferior to that of polyethylene terephthalate, so it is necessary to prevent abnormal stagnation as much as possible in the polymerization process and spinning process. is there.
As shown in FIG. 2, the elliptical shape of the spout land portion needs to have a ratio of a long side and a short side of a rectangle circumscribing the ellipse in a range of 1.2 to 3.5. When the ratio of the long side to the short side is less than 1.2 or exceeds 3.5, a high-quality polyester fiber having few defects such as yarn breakage and fluffing that is the target of the present invention cannot be obtained. The cause is not clear, but if the ratio of the long side to the short side is less than 1.2 or exceeds 3.5, the shape of the nozzle and the land part become imbalanced, resulting in a long polymer stay in the land part. It is presumed that the polymer viscosity-decreasing material due to long-term residence is mixed into the filament, so that yarn breakage and fluff are generated.

本発明の易染性ポリエステル繊維は、例えば図3に示す紡糸装置を用いて製造することができる。本発明に用いられる給糸用ノズルからなる収束ガイド、巻取装置、およびその他の溶融紡糸に必要な装置は、公知のものが使用できる。また、本発明に用いる仕上油剤は、エマルジョンタイプ、ストレートタイプの何れでもよく、その成分は既知のものでよい。
本発明の易染性ポリエステル繊維は、その単糸デシテックスを特に限定するものではないが0.1〜5デシテックス、より好ましくは0.5〜3デシテックス、また特に限定はしないがトータルデシテックスが10〜340デシテックスでの繊維が好ましく適用される。また繊維の形態は、長繊維でも短繊維でもよく、長さ方向に均一なものや太細のあるものでもよい。そして、繊維が加工される糸条の形態としては、リング紡績糸、オープンエンド紡績糸、エアジェット精紡糸等の紡績糸、単糸デシテックスが0.1〜5デシテックス程度のマルチフィラメント原糸(極細糸を含む)、甘撚糸乃至は強撚糸、仮撚加工糸(POYの延伸仮撚糸を含む)、空気噴射加工糸、押し込み加工糸、ニットデニット加工糸等が挙げられる。
The easily dyeable polyester fiber of the present invention can be produced using, for example, a spinning device shown in FIG. As the convergence guide, the winding device, and other devices necessary for melt spinning used in the present invention, known devices can be used. Further, the finishing oil used in the present invention may be either an emulsion type or a straight type, and its components may be known.
The easily dyeable polyester fiber of the present invention is not particularly limited in its single yarn decitex, but it is 0.1 to 5 decitex, more preferably 0.5 to 3 decitex, and although not particularly limited, the total decitex is 10 to 10. A fiber at 340 dtex is preferably applied. The form of the fibers may be long fibers or short fibers, and may be uniform or thick in the length direction. As the form of the yarn on which the fiber is processed, a spun yarn such as a ring spun yarn, an open-end spun yarn, an air jet fine spun yarn, a multifilament raw yarn having a single yarn decitex of about 0.1 to 5 dtex (extra fine) Thread), sweet twisted yarn or strong twisted yarn, false twisted yarn (including POY stretched false twisted yarn), air jet yarn, indented yarn, knitted knitted yarn, and the like.

なお本発明でいう混用品は、本発明の目的を損なわない範囲内でスパンデックス、綿、キュプラ、ビスコースレーヨン繊維、ポリアミド繊維等他の繊維を混紡(サイロスパンやサイロフィル等)、交絡混繊(高収縮糸との異収縮混繊糸等)、交撚、複合仮撚(伸度差仮撚等)、2フィード空気噴射加工等の混用の手段によるものであることができる。
本発明において、混用されるタンパク繊維は、羊毛、モヘヤ、カシミヤに代表される獣毛繊維と家蚕糸、野蚕糸に代表される絹繊維より適宜に選択される繊維である。
また羊毛織物においては、湿潤処理をしても縮みにくい、光沢を増し、染まり易くなる等を目的として、塩素ガスや塩素化合物にて羊毛のスケール処理が行われているが、この場合、従来のポリエステル繊維との複合においては、イラツキがより助長される問題があったが、本発明の易染性ポリエステルを用いた場合、イラツキがなく同色性が良好となる。
The mixed article as used in the present invention is a mixture of other fibers such as spandex, cotton, cupra, viscose rayon fiber, polyamide fiber, etc. within the range not impairing the object of the present invention (silospan, silofil, etc.), entangled mixed fiber ( Different shrinkage mixed yarn with high shrinkage yarn, etc.), cross-twisting, composite false twisting (elongation difference false twisting, etc.), mixed feed means such as 2-feed air jet processing.
In the present invention, the mixed protein fiber is a fiber appropriately selected from animal fibers represented by wool, mohair, and cashmere and silk fibers represented by rabbit yarn and wild silk yarn.
In addition, in woolen fabrics, wool is scaled with chlorine gas or chlorine compounds for the purpose of preventing shrinkage, increasing gloss, and facilitating dyeing even when wet treatment is performed. In the composite with the polyester fiber, there is a problem that the irritation is further promoted. However, when the easily dyeable polyester of the present invention is used, there is no irritation and the same color property is obtained.

本発明の混用染色品における易染性ポリエステル繊維とタンパク繊維の割合は、易染性ポリエステル繊維が概ね65重量%以下である。混用の割合は混用品の形態あるいは用途に応じて選択される。残りの混用成分であるタンパク繊維は、その他にスパンデックス、綿、麻、キュプラ、ビスコースレーヨン、アセテート繊維等が混用されることもあり得る。
本発明の易染性ポリエステル繊維とタンパク繊維との複合手段は、糸段階で複合するものとして、混紡(混綿、フリース混紡、スライバー混紡、コアヤーン、サイロスパン、サイロフィル、ホロースピンドル等)、交絡混繊、交撚、意匠撚糸、カバリング(シングル、ダブル)、複合仮撚(同時仮撚、先撚仮撚)、伸度差仮撚、位相差、仮撚加工後に後混繊、2フィード(同時フィードやフィード差)空気噴射加工等の手段があり、機上で複合する手段としては、一般的な交編機があり、例えば交編では、両者を引き揃えて給糸したり、二重編地(例えばダブル丸編機、ダブル横編機、ダブルラッセル経編機)において表面及び又は裏面に各々給糸又はは引き揃えて給糸する方法がある。交編では一方が経糸に他方を易糸に用いる、経糸及び又は緯糸において両者を1〜3本交互に整経や緯入れにより配置する、さらには起毛織物やパイル織物において一方が地組織を構成し、他方が起毛部、パイル部を構成したり混用して地組織、起毛部等を構成する。二重織物において表面及び又は裏面を各々構成、又は混用して構成する等がある。またこれら各種の糸段階での複合と機上での複合を組み合わせてもよい。特に、芯部に易染性ポリエステル繊維を、鞘部にタンパク繊維を配置するように複合した鞘芯複合糸や交撚糸は、タンパク繊維の風合を保持しつつ、寸法安定性、ストレッチ性、防シワ性などの機能性をも付与でき好ましい。
The ratio of easily dyeable polyester fiber to protein fiber in the mixed dyed product of the present invention is approximately 65% by weight or less for easily dyeable polyester fiber. The ratio of mixed use is selected according to the form or use of the mixed product. In addition, spandex, cotton, hemp, cupra, viscose rayon, acetate fiber, and the like may be mixed in the protein fiber as the remaining mixed component.
The composite means of easily dyeable polyester fiber and protein fiber according to the present invention can be blended at the yarn stage by blending (mixed cotton, fleece blended, sliver blended, core yarn, silospan, silofil, hollow spindle, etc.), entangled blended fiber , Cross twist, design twist yarn, covering (single, double), composite false twist (simultaneous false twist, pre-twist false false twist), elongation difference false twist, phase difference, post-mixing after false twisting, two feeds (simultaneous feed) And feed difference) There are means such as air injection processing, and as a means to combine on the machine, there is a general knitting machine. For example, in knitting, the two are aligned and fed, or double knitted fabric (For example, in a double circular knitting machine, a double flat knitting machine, a double raschel warp knitting machine), there is a method in which yarns are supplied or drawn together on the front surface and / or the back surface. In cross knitting, one is used for warp and the other for easy yarn. In warp and / or weft, both are alternately arranged by warping or weft insertion, and in brushed fabric or pile fabric, one constitutes the ground structure. On the other hand, the other portion constitutes a raised portion and a pile portion or is mixed to constitute a ground tissue, a raised portion and the like. In the double woven fabric, the front surface and / or the back surface are configured or mixed, respectively. Further, a combination of these various yarn stages and a combination on the machine may be combined. In particular, the sheath-core composite yarn and the twisted yarn that are combined so that the easily dyeable polyester fiber is disposed in the core portion and the protein fiber is disposed in the sheath portion, while maintaining the texture of the protein fiber, dimensional stability, stretchability, Functionality such as anti-wrinkle property can also be imparted, which is preferable.

次に、本発明の易染性ポリエステル繊維とタンパク繊維との混用品の染色にあたって、易染性ポリエステル繊維を分散染料で染色する場合、通常ポリエステル繊維が分散染料にて染色されている染色条件であればいずれでも適用でき、染色助剤の種類とその使用濃度、染色pH、染色浴比、染色時間等は被染色品の種類、用いられる処理装置、染色法を勘案して適宜設定すればよい。分散染料としては、ベンゼンアゾ系(モノアゾ、ジスアゾ、ナフタレンアゾ系)や複素環アゾ系(チアゾールアゾ、ベンゾチアゾールアゾ、キノリンアゾ、ピリドンアゾ、イミダゾールアゾ、チオフェンアゾ等)に代表されるアゾ系分散染料の使用が易染性ポリエステル繊維の常圧染色における発色性を高め、タンパク繊維への汚染を低減し、同色性、染色堅牢度を高める上で好ましい。また、特に染色濃度が低い場合には、拡散指数3.0以上の分散染料を用いると染色バッチごとの色のバラツキが少なくなるので好ましい。またタンパク繊維の染色は、酸性、含金、クロム、反応染料等にて通常タンパク繊維が染色されている条件であればいずれでも適用でき、染色法は分散染料との二浴染色法、一浴二段染色法、一浴染色法等適宜実施すればよい。   Next, in dyeing a mixture of easily dyeable polyester fiber and protein fiber of the present invention, when dyeing easily dyeable polyester fiber with a disperse dye, the dyeing condition is usually that the polyester fiber is dyed with disperse dye. Any type of dyeing assistant and its concentration, dyeing pH, dyeing bath ratio, dyeing time, etc. may be appropriately set in consideration of the kind of article to be dyed, the processing apparatus used, and the dyeing method. . As disperse dyes, use of azo disperse dyes represented by benzeneazo (monoazo, disazo, naphthaleneazo) and heterocyclic azo (thiazoleazo, benzothiazoleazo, quinolineazo, pyridoneazo, imidazoleazo, thiophenazo, etc.) However, it is preferable from the viewpoint of enhancing the color developability in atmospheric dyeing of readily dyeable polyester fibers, reducing the contamination of protein fibers, and increasing the same color and fastness of dyeing. In particular, when the dyeing density is low, it is preferable to use a disperse dye having a diffusion index of 3.0 or more because color variation among dyeing batches is reduced. In addition, protein fibers can be dyed under any conditions where protein fibers are usually dyed with acid, metal, chromium, reactive dyes, etc. A two-stage dyeing method or a one-bath dyeing method may be appropriately performed.

染色する際の染色温度は100℃以下が好ましく、染色操作は、ウインス、ジッガー、ビーム染色機、液流染色機等の装置を用い、バッチ方式、連続方式のいずれによっても実施することができる。なお、浸染以外にパディング染色法、プリント法であっても実施することができる。
得られた混用染色品は、易染性ポリエステル繊維への分散染料の染着率を高め、染料の無駄を低減して発色性が高く、タンパク繊維との同色性が良好で見栄えのよい混用品の染色物が得られる。また染色バッチごとの色のバラツキを抑え染色機の操業率を向上させる。
The dyeing temperature at the time of dyeing is preferably 100 ° C. or less, and the dyeing operation can be carried out by a batch method or a continuous method using an apparatus such as a wins, a jigger, a beam dyeing machine or a liquid dyeing machine. In addition to the dip dyeing, a padding dyeing method and a printing method can be used.
The resulting mixed dyed product increases the dyeing rate of disperse dyes on easily dyeable polyester fibers, reduces waste of dyes, has high color development, and has good color matching with protein fibers. A dyed product is obtained. In addition, the color variation of each dyeing batch is suppressed and the operation rate of the dyeing machine is improved.

以下に本発明を実施例などにより詳細に説明するが、本発明はこれら実施例などにより何ら限定されるものではない。尚、本発明で用いられる特性値の測定法を以下に示す。
(1)固有粘度[η](dl/g)
固有粘度[η](dl/g)は次式の定義に基づいて求められた値である。
[η]=lim(ηr−1)/C
C→0
定義式中、ηrは純度98%以上のo−クロロフェノール溶媒で溶解したポリマーの希釈溶液の35℃での粘度を、同一温度で測定した上記溶媒の粘度で除した値であり、相対粘度と定義されるものである。Cはg/100mlで表されるポリマー濃度である。
(2)強度・伸度
オリエンテック社製、引張試験機を用い、糸長20cm、引張速20cm/分の条件で測定する。
(3)扁平度
扁平度は、次式にて繊維の単糸横断面の外接長方形の長辺Aと短辺Bの比にて求めた。
扁平度=長辺A/短辺B
(4)損失正接
オリエンテック社製、レオバイブロンを用い、試料重量約0.1mg、測定周波数110Hz、昇温速度5℃/分、乾燥空気中にて測定を行い、各温度における力学的損失正接(tanδ)、および動的粘弾性(E’)を測定する。その結果から、tanδ−温度曲線が得られ、この曲線上でtanδが最大値を示す温度(℃)とそのときのtanδの極大値tanδmaxを求める。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the examples. In addition, the measuring method of the characteristic value used by this invention is shown below.
(1) Intrinsic viscosity [η] (dl / g)
The intrinsic viscosity [η] (dl / g) is a value obtained based on the definition of the following formula.
[Η] = lim (ηr−1) / C
C → 0
In the definition formula, ηr is a value obtained by dividing the viscosity at 35 ° C. of a diluted polymer solution dissolved in an o-chlorophenol solvent having a purity of 98% or more by the viscosity of the solvent measured at the same temperature. Is defined. C is the polymer concentration expressed in g / 100 ml.
(2) Strength / Elongation Measured using a tensile tester manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd. under the conditions of a yarn length of 20 cm and a tensile speed of 20 cm / min.
(3) Flatness Flatness was calculated | required by ratio of the long side A and the short side B of the circumscribed rectangle of the single yarn cross section of a fiber by following Formula.
Flatness = long side A / short side B
(4) Loss tangent Using a Levibron manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd., measuring a sample weight of about 0.1 mg, a measurement frequency of 110 Hz, a heating rate of 5 ° C./min, in dry air, and measuring the mechanical loss tangent at each temperature ( tan δ), and dynamic viscoelasticity (E ′). From the result, a tan δ-temperature curve is obtained, and the temperature (° C.) at which tan δ exhibits the maximum value on this curve and the maximum value tan δ max of tan δ at that time are obtained.

(5)吸尽率、発色性(K/S)測定:染色性の評価
試料は、糸を一口編地としスコアロール400を2g/リットル含む温水を用いて、70℃、20分間精錬処理し、タンブラー乾燥機で乾燥させ、次いで、ピンテンターを用いて、180℃、30秒間の熱セットを行ったものを用いた。
染料は、SumikaronBlue/S−3RF(住化ケムテックス(株)製、商品名)を布帛に対して5重量%使用し、さらに分散剤として、ニッカサンソルト7000(日華化学(株)製、商品名)0.5g/リットル、酢酸0.25ml/リットル、酢酸ナトリウム1.0g/リットルを添加してpHを5に調整して染液とした。浴比25倍の染浴中で95℃にて60分の染色後、吸尽率を求めた。吸尽率は、染料原液の吸光度をA、染色後の染液の吸光度aを分光光度計から求め、以下の式に代入して求めた。吸光度は、当該染料の最大吸収波長である580nmでの値を採用した。
吸尽率=(A−a)/A×100(%)
発色性は、K/Sを用いて評価した。この値は、染色後のサンプル布帛の分光反射率Rを測定し、以下に示すKubelka−Munkの式から求めた。この値が大きいほど発色性が高い(表面濃度が高い)こと、すなはち、良く発色されていることを示す。当該染料の最大吸収波長である580nmでの値を採用した。
K/S=(1−R)2/2R
ちなみにレギュラーポリエステル繊維(56デシテックス/24f)を上記条件で130℃で60分染色後の吸尽率は94%で、K/S値は21であった。
(6)染色物の発色性L値の測定
染色布帛の表面の色濃度を分光測色計(Kollmorgen社製、形式マクベスMS−2020)を使用してLab表色系におけるL値を測定した。L値は低い方が発色性が高い。
(5) Exhaust rate, color development (K / S) measurement: Evaluation of dyeability Samples were smelted at 70 ° C. for 20 minutes using warm water containing 2 g / liter of score roll 400 using yarn as a knitted fabric. Then, it was dried with a tumbler drier, and then heat-set at 180 ° C. for 30 seconds using a pin tenter was used.
As the dye, Sumikaron Blue / S-3RF (manufactured by Sumika Chemtex Co., Ltd., trade name) is used in an amount of 5% by weight based on the fabric, and as a dispersant, Nikka Sun Salt 7000 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., product) Name) 0.5 g / liter, acetic acid 0.25 ml / liter, sodium acetate 1.0 g / liter was added to adjust the pH to 5 to obtain a dyeing solution. After dyeing at 95 ° C. for 60 minutes in a dye bath having a bath ratio of 25, the exhaustion rate was determined. The exhaustion rate was determined by substituting the absorbance of the dye stock solution with A and the absorbance a of the dyed solution after dyeing from a spectrophotometer and substituting it into the following equation. As the absorbance, a value at 580 nm, which is the maximum absorption wavelength of the dye, was adopted.
Exhaust rate = (A−a) / A × 100 (%)
The color developability was evaluated using K / S. This value was determined from the Kubelka-Munk equation shown below by measuring the spectral reflectance R of the dyed sample fabric. Larger values indicate higher color developability (higher surface concentration), that is, better color development. The value at 580 nm, which is the maximum absorption wavelength of the dye, was adopted.
K / S = (1-R) 2 / 2R
Incidentally, the exhaust rate after dyeing regular polyester fibers (56 dtex / 24f) at 130 ° C. for 60 minutes under the above conditions was 94% and the K / S value was 21.
(6) Measurement of color developability L value of dyed product The color density of the surface of the dyed fabric was measured for L value in the Lab color system using a spectrocolorimeter (manufactured by Kollmorgen, model Macbeth MS-2020). The lower the L value, the higher the color developability.

(7)紡糸性の評価
1錘で24時間紡糸した場合の糸切れ回数で以下のように評価した。糸切れ回数が1回以下を○、1〜3回までを△、3回を越える場合を×とした。
(8)風合い評価
検査者(30人)の触感によって布帛を次の基準で相対評価した。
◎:ソフト、しなやか感が非常によい
○:ソフト、しなやか感はよい
△:ソフト、しなやか感はやや劣る
×:ソフト、しなやか感がない
(9)同色性
易染性ポリエステル繊維とタンパク繊維との明度差が少なく、色相差、彩度差、イラツキが少ないものを良好とし、5級(良好)〜1級(劣る)の5段階に判定した。
(10)洗濯堅牢度
混用染色品について、JIS−L−0844:A−2法に準じて評価した。但し、洗剤はアタック(花王(株)製:商品名)1g/リットルで用いた。試験片の変褪色と添付白布片の汚染の程度をそれぞれ変褪色用グレースケール、汚染用グレースケールと比較して判定した。
(7) Evaluation of spinnability The number of yarn breakage when spinning with one spindle for 24 hours was evaluated as follows. The case where the number of yarn breaks was 1 or less was marked with ◯, 1 to 3 times with △, and the case with more than 3 times with x.
(8) Texture evaluation The fabric was relatively evaluated according to the following criteria based on the feel of the inspector (30 persons).
◎: Soft, supple feeling is very good ○: Soft, supple feeling is good △: Soft, supple feeling is slightly inferior ×: Soft, supple feeling is not good (9) Same color property Easy dye polyester fiber and protein fiber Those having little brightness difference, less hue difference, saturation difference, and illness were considered good, and were judged in five grades from grade 5 (good) to grade 1 (inferior).
(10) Fastness to washing The mixed dyed product was evaluated according to JIS-L-0844: A-2 method. However, the detergent was used at 1 g / liter of Attack (trade name, manufactured by Kao Corporation). The change color of the test piece and the degree of contamination of the attached white cloth piece were judged by comparing with the gray scale for change color and the gray scale for contamination, respectively.

(11)ドライクリーニング液の汚染
混用染色品について、JIS−L−0860に準じてドライクリーニング試験を実施し、ドライクリーニング液とドライクリーニング試験後の汚れ液を磁性容器に(20mm×40mm×10mm)に8cc採り、液汚染程度を汚染用グレースケールと比較してその色落ち度を判定した。色落ちの少ない良好なものを5級とし、順次1級(色落ちの大きいもの)に判定した。
(12)染色物中のタンパク繊維の汚染度
布帛からタンパク繊維を抜き取り、その汚染度をJIS−Z−8730に準拠し、分光測色計(Kollmorgen社製、形式マクベスMS−2020)使用し評価した。汚染度Dは、染色前後のタンパク繊維の着色度差を示すものであり、Lab表色系において、下記の式により求めた。数値が大きいほど分散染料による汚染が大きい。
D=(ΔL2+Δa2+Δb21/2
(11) Contamination of dry cleaning liquid For mixed dyed products, a dry cleaning test is carried out according to JIS-L-0860, and the dry cleaning liquid and the dirt liquid after the dry cleaning test are placed in a magnetic container (20 mm x 40 mm x 10 mm). 8 cc was taken, and the degree of color fading was judged by comparing the degree of liquid contamination with the gray scale for contamination. Good ones with little color fading were classified as grade 5, and were sequentially judged as grade 1 (those with large color fading).
(12) Contamination of protein fibers in the dyed product Protein fibers are extracted from the fabric, and the degree of contamination is evaluated using a spectrocolorimeter (manufactured by Kollmorgen, model Macbeth MS-2020) in accordance with JIS-Z-8730. did. The degree of contamination D indicates the difference in the degree of coloration of protein fibers before and after staining, and was determined by the following formula in the Lab color system. The greater the number, the greater the contamination with disperse dyes.
D = (ΔL 2 + Δa 2 + Δb 2 ) 1/2

[実施例1、比較例1]
テレフタル酸ジメチル(以下、DMTと称す)100部、エチレングリコール76部、エステル交換触媒として、酢酸マンガン4水和物塩0.04部を仕込み、150℃から240℃に加熱して3時間を要してメタノールを留出しつつエステル交換反応を行った。次いで、安定剤としてトリメチルフォスフェート0.04部、重合触媒として三酸化アンチモン0.05部、艶消し剤として二酸化チタン0.4部を添加した後、表1記載の分子量及び添加量にてポリエチレングリコールと、熱安定剤としてイルガノックス245(チバガイギー社製)をポリエチレングリコールに対して3%となるように加えて混合添加する。その後、30分かけて常圧にて重縮合反応を行い、重合槽に移送した。移送完了後、徐々に減圧して、真空度0.5Torr、275℃で重縮合反応を行い、[η]=0.73の改質ポリエステルを得た。これらポリマーを用いて、紡口ランド部形状が楕円形(長辺/短辺の比が2.0)でW型に穿孔された、紡糸孔30個有する紡口を使用して、紡糸温度280℃、巻取速度6000m/分で高速紡糸を行い、単糸断面形状がW断面を有した、56デシテックス/30フィラメントの繊維を得た。得られた易染性ポリエステル繊維のTmax、偏平率、強度、伸度、染色性、紡糸性評価結果を表1に記載した。
この糸条とウール72番単糸を常法によりZ方向に750T/Mで合糸追撚し、得られた糸条を用い2/1の綾組織にて織物(経糸密度100本/インチ、緯糸密度80本/インチ)を調製した(易染性ポリエステル繊維の混用率は30%)。
[Example 1, Comparative Example 1]
100 parts of dimethyl terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as DMT), 76 parts of ethylene glycol and 0.04 part of manganese acetate tetrahydrate salt as a transesterification catalyst were charged and heated from 150 ° C to 240 ° C for 3 hours. Then, transesterification was carried out while distilling methanol. Next, 0.04 part of trimethyl phosphate as a stabilizer, 0.05 part of antimony trioxide as a polymerization catalyst, and 0.4 part of titanium dioxide as a matting agent were added, and then polyethylene having a molecular weight and an addition amount shown in Table 1 were added. Glycol and Irganox 245 (manufactured by Ciba Geigy) as a heat stabilizer are added and mixed and added to 3% of polyethylene glycol. Thereafter, a polycondensation reaction was carried out at normal pressure over 30 minutes and transferred to a polymerization tank. After completion of the transfer, the pressure was gradually reduced, and a polycondensation reaction was performed at a vacuum degree of 0.5 Torr and 275 ° C. to obtain a modified polyester having [η] = 0.73. Using these polymers, a spinneret having an ellipse shape (long side / short side ratio of 2.0) and drilled in a W shape and having 30 spinnerets, a spinning temperature of 280 High-speed spinning was performed at a temperature of 6000 m / min and a fiber of 56 dtex / 30 filaments having a W cross section as a single yarn cross section was obtained. Table 1 shows the Tmax, flatness, strength, elongation, dyeability, and spinnability evaluation results of the easily dyeable polyester fibers obtained.
This yarn and wool No. 72 single yarn were twisted and twisted at 750 T / M in the Z direction by a conventional method, and the resulting yarn was used for a woven fabric (warp density of 100 yarns / inch, A weft density of 80 / inch was prepared (mixing rate of readily dyeable polyester fiber was 30%).

次いでこの混用織物を常法により精練、洗絨を行い、塩素ガスによるウールのスケール処理を行い、180℃でプレセットを行った後、下記の染色条件で分散染色を実施した。
染色条件
染料:ディスパースブラック JSW(150%)(三木産業(株)製、ベンゼンアゾ系分散染料)
3.5%omf
助剤:デモールN (北広ケミカル(株)製)
1g/リットル
浴 比 : 1:15
染色温度、時間: 98℃、45分
染色完了後、染色機から染色残液を排出し、染色機に水を入れ温度を65℃まで昇温し、これに下記薬剤を添加して下記の濃度の還元洗浄浴を調整し、染色物に65℃、10分間の還元洗浄を施した。
二酸化チオ尿素: 1g/リットル
アンモニア水(28%) : 1g/リットル
アミラジンD(第一工業製薬(株)製) : 0.5g/リットル
浴 比 : 1:20
この還元洗浄後、残液を排出し、温湯および水により染色物を十分にすすぎ洗いした後、下記の条件にてウール側の染色を行った。
染色条件
染料:ダイアモンドブラック P−V(200%)(ダイスター(株)製) 5%omf
助剤: 酢酸(40%) 3%omf
ギ酸(40%) 3%omf
重クロム酸カリ 1.1%omf
浴比: 1:20
染色温度、時間:98℃、60分
Next, this mixed fabric was scoured and washed by a conventional method, subjected to wool scale treatment with chlorine gas, pre-set at 180 ° C., and then subjected to disperse dyeing under the following dyeing conditions.
Dyeing conditions Dye: Disperse Black JSW (150%) (Miki Sangyo Co., Ltd., benzeneazo-based disperse dye)
3.5% omf
Auxiliary agent: Demol N (made by Kitahiro Chemical Co., Ltd.)
1 g / liter bath ratio: 1:15
Dyeing temperature and time: 98 ° C., 45 minutes After dyeing is completed, the dyeing residual liquid is discharged from the dyeing machine, water is added to the dyeing machine, the temperature is raised to 65 ° C., and the following chemicals are added to the following concentration. The reduction washing bath was adjusted, and the dyed product was subjected to reduction washing at 65 ° C. for 10 minutes.
Thiourea dioxide: 1 g / liter Ammonia water (28%): 1 g / liter Amirazine D (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.): 0.5 g / liter Bath ratio: 1:20
After this reduction cleaning, the remaining liquid was discharged, and the dyed product was sufficiently rinsed with hot water and water, and then the wool side was dyed under the following conditions.
Dyeing condition Dye: Diamond black PV (200%) (manufactured by Daistar Co., Ltd.) 5% omf
Auxiliary: Acetic acid (40%) 3% omf
Formic acid (40%) 3% omf
Potassium dichromate 1.1% omf
Bath ratio: 1:20
Dyeing temperature, time: 98 ° C, 60 minutes

染色完了後、染色機から染色残液を排出し、染色機に水を入れ温度を75℃まで昇温しアミラジンD;2g/リットルを入れ、10分間のソーピング処理を実施した。処理後、温湯および水により染色物を十分にすすぎ洗いした後、乾燥し、常法によりフルデカタイザーを用い蒸絨処理を行って仕上げた。
仕上げた染色物の風合、混用染色品の発色性、同色性、汗アルカリ堅牢度、ドライクリーニング液汚染、ウール繊維の汚染度の評価結果を表1に示す。
表1の結果より、本発明の実施例1で得られた混用品は、いずれも比較例1に比べ、ソフトでしなやかな風合を有し、発色性が高く、イラツキがなく同色性が良好であり、かつ堅牢度性能も良好な商品価値の高い混用品が得られることがわかる。
After completion of the dyeing, the dyeing residual liquid was discharged from the dyeing machine, water was added to the dyeing machine, the temperature was raised to 75 ° C., and amyrazine D; 2 g / liter was added, and a soaping treatment was performed for 10 minutes. After the treatment, the dyed product was sufficiently rinsed with warm water and water, then dried, and finished by steaming using a full decatetizer by a conventional method.
Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the texture of the finished dyed product, the colorability of the mixed dyed product, the same color, the fastness to sweat alkali, the contamination of the dry cleaning liquid, and the contamination of the wool fibers.
From the results shown in Table 1, the mixed products obtained in Example 1 of the present invention all have a soft and supple texture compared to Comparative Example 1, have high color developability, no irritation, and good color matching. In addition, it can be seen that a mixed product having a high commercial value with good fastness performance can be obtained.

[実施例2、比較例2]
実施例1で製造された56dtex/30fの各々のポリエステル原糸を正絹糸44中にて常法によりダブルカバリングを行いカバリング糸を作製した。このカバリング糸を常法により絹の精練処理を行い205dtexの糸条を得た(易染性ポリエステル繊維の混用率は28%)。得られた糸条を用い、24GGで天竺編物を作製した。
得られた各々の編地を常法によりリラックス精練後、下記条件にて染色を実施した。
染色条件
染料:カヤロンポリエステルイエロー BRL−S 2.06%omf
カヤロンポリエステルルビン 3GL−S(150)1.03%omf
カヤロンポリエステルネービーブルー 2GN−SF(200)
0.13%omf
カヤカランイエロー GL(143) 0.72%omf
カヤカランボルデアックス BL 1.17%omf
カヤカラングレイ BL(167) 0.04%omf
(日本化薬(株)製、各々の染料濃度については分散染料はポリエステル重量に対する割合、酸性染料は絹重量に対する割合を示す)
助剤:ニッカサンソルトRM−340(日華化学工業(株)製)
0.5g/リットル
酢酸 0.5cc/リットル
酢酸ナトリウム 1g/リットル
SR−1801Mコンク(高松油脂(株)製) 3%omf
浴比: 1:20
染色温度、時間: 95℃、30分
染色後は、非イオン洗浄剤1g/リットルの浴で70℃で15分間のソーピングを行い、水洗し、150℃で30秒間の乾熱セットで仕上げた。
仕上げた染色物の風合、混用染色品の同色性、洗濯堅牢度の評価結果を表2に示す。
[Example 2, Comparative Example 2]
Each of the 56 dtex / 30 f polyester raw yarns produced in Example 1 was double-covered in the normal silk yarn 44 by a conventional method to produce a covering yarn. This covering yarn was subjected to silk scouring treatment by a conventional method to obtain 205 dtex yarn (mixing rate of easily dyeable polyester fiber was 28%). Tendon knitted fabric was produced with 24GG using the obtained yarn.
Each obtained knitted fabric was relaxed and scoured by a conventional method, and then dyed under the following conditions.
Dyeing conditions Dye: Kayalon Polyester Yellow BRL-S 2.06% omf
Kayalon polyester rubin 3GL-S (150) 1.03% omf
Kayalon Polyester Navy Blue 2GN-SF (200)
0.13% omf
Kayakaran Yellow GL (143) 0.72% omf
Kayaka Rambordeax BL 1.17% omf
Kayaka Langley BL (167) 0.04% omf
(Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd., for each dye concentration, disperse dye is the ratio to the polyester weight, acid dye is the ratio to the silk weight)
Auxiliary agent: Nikka Sun Salt RM-340 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.)
0.5g / liter
Acetic acid 0.5cc / liter
Sodium acetate 1g / liter
SR-1801M Conch (Takamatsu Yushi Co., Ltd.) 3% omf
Bath ratio: 1:20
Dyeing temperature and time: 95 ° C., 30 minutes After dyeing, soaping was performed at 70 ° C. for 15 minutes in a nonionic detergent 1 g / liter bath, washed with water, and finished with a dry heat set at 150 ° C. for 30 seconds.
Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the texture of the finished dyed product, the same color of the mixed dyed product, and the fastness to washing.

表2の結果より、本発明の実施例2で得られた混用品は、いずれも比較例2比べ、ソフトでしなやかな風合を有し、発色性が高く、同色性が良好で、かつ堅牢度性能も良好で商品価値の高い混用品が得られることがわかる。   From the results of Table 2, the mixed products obtained in Example 2 of the present invention all have a soft and supple texture, high color developability, good color matching, and fastness as compared with Comparative Example 2. It can be seen that a mixed product with good product performance and high commercial value can be obtained.

Figure 2005299046
Figure 2005299046

Figure 2005299046
Figure 2005299046

本発明の混用品は特にインナー分野、スポーツ分野、アウター分野で好適に利用できる。   The mixed article of the present invention can be suitably used particularly in the inner field, sports field, and outer field.

本発明で使用される易染性ポリエステル繊維の紡糸における紡口の断面概要図の例を示す。The example of the cross-sectional schematic diagram of the spinneret in spinning | fiber-formation of the easily dyeable polyester fiber used by this invention is shown. 本発明で使用される易染性ポリエステル繊維の紡糸における紡口のランド部平面概要図の例を示す。The example of the land part top view schematic diagram of the spinning nozzle in spinning of the easily dyeable polyester fiber used by this invention is shown. 本発明で使用される易染性ポリエステル繊維の紡糸生産工程例を示す。The example of the spinning production process of the easily dyeable polyester fiber used by this invention is shown.

Claims (1)

ポリエチレンテレフタレートに分子量300〜2000のポリエチレングリコールを3〜8重量%共重合したポリエステルで、90重量%以上がエチレンテレフタレート繰り返し単位からなるポリエチレンテレフタレートからなり、単糸の断面形状がW字状で、下記の条件(1)を満足するポリエステル繊維であって、測定周波数110Hzにおける力学的損失正接(tanδ)が最大を示す温度(Tmax)が下記(2)で示される範囲にあることを特徴とする易染性ポリエステル繊維とタンパク繊維との混用品。
(1) 2≦扁平度≦4
(2) 85℃≦(Tmax)≦105℃
Polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 3 to 8% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 300 to 2000, 90% by weight or more is made of polyethylene terephthalate consisting of ethylene terephthalate repeating units, and the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is W-shaped. The temperature (Tmax) at which the mechanical loss tangent (tan δ) reaches the maximum at a measurement frequency of 110 Hz is in the range indicated by the following (2). A mixed product of dyeable polyester fiber and protein fiber.
(1) 2 ≦ Flatness ≦ 4
(2) 85 ° C. ≦ (Tmax) ≦ 105 ° C.
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113373705A (en) * 2021-06-18 2021-09-10 海盐嘉源色彩科技股份有限公司 Dyeing and finishing process of acetate fiber and protein fiber silk fabric
CN113638116A (en) * 2021-09-23 2021-11-12 石狮市骏驰贸易有限公司 Antibacterial and deodorant air cotton-like fabric and preparation process thereof

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113373705A (en) * 2021-06-18 2021-09-10 海盐嘉源色彩科技股份有限公司 Dyeing and finishing process of acetate fiber and protein fiber silk fabric
CN113638116A (en) * 2021-09-23 2021-11-12 石狮市骏驰贸易有限公司 Antibacterial and deodorant air cotton-like fabric and preparation process thereof
CN113638116B (en) * 2021-09-23 2022-12-06 石狮市骏驰科技有限公司 Antibacterial and deodorant air cotton-like fabric and preparation process thereof

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