JP2004168763A - Skin cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a skin cosmetic excellent in instant effectiveness and lasting properties, also having a preventing effect, and in addition excellent in skin barrier repairing function useful even for a subject of atopic dermatitis. <P>SOLUTION: This skin cosmetic contains, as an intercellular lipid component, at least 1 kind selected from a group consisting of a sphingolipid, higher alcohol or polyhydric alcohol or their esters, sterol or its ester and hydrocarbon; as a humectant, at least 1 kind selected from a group consisting of an amino acid or its salt, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid or its salt, an organic acid or its salt, urea and sugars; and a phospholipid. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO

Description

  TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic or a liposome-containing skin cosmetic excellent in skin barrier repair ability.

  Skin problems such as atopic dermatitis and dry sensitive skin are mainly caused by dry skin. Drying of the skin is caused by a decrease in intercellular lipids, which are responsible for the barrier function of the inside of the skin and the stratum corneum. Fundamentally, intercellular lipid components such as ceramide, which constitute the stratum corneum, are normally synthesized. However, this is due to the fact that the barrier function shows an abnormality. Alternatively, the barrier function is destroyed by an external action such as physical friction or scratching. It has been elucidated that allergens, irritants and the like easily enter the skin due to the abnormality of the barrier function, resulting in itching and inflammation of the skin.

  On the other hand, as a symptomatic treatment / prevention for these skin troubles, skin care agents using moisturizers are widely used. Components of the humectant are mainly saccharides such as polysaccharides and monosaccharides, amino acids, proteins such as collagen, and natural moisturizing components such as polymer compounds; and lipid components such as ceramide, cholesterol, squalane, and jojoba oil. I have. However, conventional moisturizers often form a film with a water-retaining polymer, and are often formulated as a water-retaining component centering on ceramide, which is a main component of keratinocyte intercellular lipids. Although itching can be temporarily improved, inflammation and the like can be ameliorated, the effect is transient, and it is considered that abnormality of the barrier function cannot be fundamentally repaired.

For example, Patent Literature 1 discloses a skin cosmetic containing ceramides and tannin for the purpose of restoring the barrier function of the skin; Patent Literature 2 discloses a ceramide production promoter (plant extract such as eucalyptus extract and ginger extract). Patent Literature 3 discloses a skin cosmetic containing a diamide compound and a water-soluble humectant (such as a polyhydric alcohol) and / or a keratinocyte lipid component (such as ceramide). It has been disclosed. However, these skin cosmetics have been developed mainly for promoting the synthesis of ceramide which is one of the keratinocyte intercellular lipids, and their effects are insufficient from the viewpoint of restoring the skin barrier function. However, it has no immediate effect, is inferior in persistence, and is inferior in preventive properties (prevents invasion of foreign substances and prevents inflammation). In addition, in recent years, the number of patients has rapidly increased, and conventional skin cosmetics are still insufficient from the viewpoint of the effect on subjects with atopic dermatitis, which is causing serious social phenomena.
JP 2001-261520 A JP 2001-261543 A JP-A-2002-114666

  The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a skin barrier repair that is excellent in immediate action and sustainability, has a preventive effect, and is also useful for subjects with atopic dermatitis. An object of the present invention is to provide a skin cosmetic or a liposome-containing skin cosmetic excellent in performance.

Skin cosmetics excellent in skin barrier repair ability according to the present invention that can solve the above problems,
(A) sphingolipids (typically ceramides), higher alcohols or polyhydric alcohols or esters thereof, sterols or esters thereof (typically cholesterol), fatty acids or triglycerides thereof, and hydrocarbons as intercellular lipid components At least one selected from the group consisting of;
(B) at least one selected from the group consisting of an amino acid or a salt thereof, a pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid or a salt thereof, an organic acid or a salt thereof, urea, an inorganic salt, and a saccharide;
(C) It has a gist in the place containing a phospholipid.

In addition, the liposome-containing skin cosmetics excellent in skin barrier repair ability according to the present invention that can solve the above problems,
(A) sphingolipids (typically ceramides), higher alcohols or polyhydric alcohols or esters thereof, sterols or esters thereof (typically cholesterol), fatty acids or triglycerides thereof, and hydrocarbons as intercellular lipid components At least one selected from the group consisting of preferably sphingolipids, higher alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, cholesterol, fatty acids or triglycerides thereof, and hydrocarbons;
(B) As the moisturizing component, at least one selected from the group consisting of amino acids or salts thereof, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids or salts thereof, organic acids or salts thereof, urea, and saccharides (preferably amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylate, organic acids , Urea, and at least one selected from the group consisting of sugars)
Has a gist where it is contained.

  Advantageous Effects of Invention According to the present invention, a skin cosmetic or liposome-containing skin cosmetic having excellent skin barrier repair ability, which is excellent in immediate action and persistence, has a preventive effect, and is also useful for subjects with atopic dermatitis. Charges can be provided.

  The present inventors have intensively studied to achieve the above object, particularly from the viewpoint of "repair of skin barrier function". As a result, in order to compensate for the intercellular matrix lost due to skin troubles such as drying and to repair and reconstitute the barrier, it is effective to make the cosmetic composition as close as possible to the skin constituents That is, the inventors have found that it is effective to construct an artificial intercellular matrix as close as possible to the original configuration of the intercellular matrix, and have completed the present invention. The intercellular lipid component and the moisturizing component constituting the present invention are specified from such a viewpoint, and since these components are preferably made into liposomes or liquid crystals by using phospholipids or the like, they may cause skin troubles. It is capable of repairing the lost intercellular matrix, and is extremely excellent in terms of immediate effect, persistence, and preventive properties, and particularly extremely effective for subjects with atopic dermatitis.

  Hereinafter, each component constituting the skin cosmetic of the present invention will be described. The present invention includes both skin cosmetics containing the above (A) to (C) and liposome-containing skin cosmetics containing (A) and (B).

(A) Intercellular lipid component The skin cosmetic of the present invention comprises sphingolipids, higher alcohols or polyhydric alcohols or esters, sterols or esters thereof, fatty acids or triglycerides thereof, and hydrocarbons as intercellular lipid components. It contains at least one member selected from the group. These components may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

(A-1) Sphingolipid Sphingolipid is a generic term for lipids containing sphingoids and contains sphingosine, phytosphingosine or sphinganine as a constituent unit. The above-mentioned sphingolipids are roughly classified into sphingolipids containing phosphorus (such as sphingomyelin) and glycosphingolipids containing sugar (such as cerebroside), and both are used in the present invention. Ceramides can also be used as sphingolipids. These can be used alone or in combination, and in total, sphingolipids are 0.001 to 10% by mass (more preferably 0.05% by mass or more and 5.0% by mass or less; further preferably 0.5% by mass or more) , 3.0% by mass or less).

  Among them, ceramide is the most abundant sphingolipid in the stratum corneum, and as described above, it exhibits an excellent skin barrier function of preventing water evaporation from the skin and preventing invasion of foreign substances from the outside world. Is an essential component of the present invention.

  The ceramides used in the present invention include naturally occurring ceramides such as plants (eg, wheat, soybeans, rice, etc.), animals (eg, keratinocytes between human skin), and microorganisms (eg, yeast). Ceramides, or synthetic ceramides obtained by chemical synthesis. Ceramides also include ceramides in which fatty acids (including hydroxy acids) are amide bonded to sphingosine. The ceramides may be ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide 6I, ceramide 6II and the like. Among the ceramides used in the present invention, human ceramides are particularly preferred.

  The ceramides used in the present invention are represented, for example, by the following formula (I).

[Where,
R ¹ is a C _1-50 hydrocarbon group which may have a substituent, —R ⁶ (NR ⁷ —CO) —R ⁸ group (wherein R ⁶ and R ⁸ have a substituent _{Represents a} C _1-30 hydrocarbon group, and R ⁷ represents a hydrogen atom or a C _1-20 hydrocarbon group which may have a substituent), or a —R ⁹ —O—CO—R ¹⁰ group (Wherein, R ⁹ represents a C _1-20 hydrocarbon group, and R ¹⁰ represents a C _1-12 hydrocarbon group);
R ² is a hydrogen atom, a (poly) glycosyl group, a sulfuric acid (or a salt thereof) group, a sulfonic acid (or a salt thereof) group, a phosphoric acid (or a salt thereof) group, or a phosphoryl (or a salt thereof) group;
R ³ is a hydrogen atom or a C _1-33 hydrocarbon group which may have a substituent;
R ⁴ is a hydrogen atom, a C _1-50 hydrocarbon group which may have a substituent, or a —CH ₂ —CH (OH) —CH ₂ —O—R ¹¹ group (where R ¹¹ is a C _{10 -26 represents a} hydrocarbon group);
R ⁵ represents a hydrogen atom or a C _1-30 hydrocarbon group which may have a substituent, respectively.
In the above formula (I), examples of R ¹ as a C _1-50 hydrocarbon group (preferably a C _5-50 hydrocarbon group) include linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups such as butyric acid. , Caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, linear or branched saturated fatty acid residues such as behenic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, petroselinic acid, olein Straight-chain or branched-chain unsaturated fatty acid residues such as acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid; Preferred R ¹ is an aliphatic C _10-24 hydrocarbon group. R ¹ may have, for example, a hydroxyl group, which is esterified with a C _1-35 fatty acid (particularly, a higher C _10-24 fatty acid) which may further have a substituent. Is also good.

In the above formula (I), when R ¹ is a —R ⁶ — (NR ⁷ —CO) —R ⁸ group, R ⁶ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group such as C Preferred are _5-20 alkylene groups. R ⁷ is preferably a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group, for example, a C _1-10 alkyl group, particularly preferably a C _1-6 alkyl group. R ⁸ is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group, for example, a C _5-20 alkyl group. The total carbon number of R ⁶ and R ⁸ is about 9 to 30.

In the above formula (I), when R ¹ is a —R ⁹ —O—CO—R ¹⁰ group, R ⁹ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group, for example, C _10-20. Alkylene groups are preferred. R ¹⁰ is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group, for example, a C _1-12 alkyl group.

Among them, R ¹ is preferably a C _1-50 hydrocarbon group or a —R ⁹ —O—CO—R ¹⁰ group.

In the above formula (I), examples of R ² being a (poly) glycosyl group include, for example, a glucosyl group or a dimer to tetramer thereof, a galactosyl group or a dimer thereof to octamer, a sulfogalactosyl group, a mannosyl group, a fructosyl group And a sorbosyl group. Examples of the phosphoryl (or salt thereof) group for R ² include a phosphoryl-alkylamine group such as a phosphorylethylamine group and a phosphorylalkylammonium such as a phosphorylethylammonium group.

Among them, R ² is preferably a hydrogen atom or a (poly) glycosyl group.

In the above formula (I), examples of the C _1-33 hydrocarbon group in which R ³ may have a substituent include a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group, for example, R ¹ And the same fatty acid residues (particularly, aliphatic C _10-24 hydrocarbon groups) are preferred. R ³ may have, for example, a hydroxyl group (especially an α-hydroxyl group), a C _1-14 alkyl group, or the like. The hydroxyl group may further have an inorganic acid or a substituent (such as an α-hydroxyl group). It may be esterified with a C _1-35 fatty acid which may have (particularly, a higher C _10-24 fatty acid which may have an α-hydroxyl group), (poly) glycosyl group, sulfuric acid (or a salt thereof) ) Group, sulfonic acid (or salt thereof) group, phosphoric acid (or salt thereof) group or phosphoryl (or salt thereof) group.

In the above formula (I), examples of the C _1-50 hydrocarbon group in which R ⁴ may have a substituent include, for example, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group. . R ⁴ may have, for example, a hydroxyl group, and the hydroxyl group may be further esterified with a C _1-35 fatty acid (preferably a higher C _10-24 fatty acid).

In the above formula (I), R ⁴ is _{-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2} -O-R 11 group (wherein, R ¹¹ is, C _10-26 a hydrocarbon group) In the case of, R ¹¹ Is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group, for example, a C _10-26 alkyl group.

Among them, R ⁴ is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated aliphatic C _1-30 hydrocarbon group, for example, a C _1-24 alkyl group (particularly a C _1-12 alkyl group). preferable.

In the above formula (I), examples of the C _1-30 hydrocarbon group in which R ⁵ may have a substituent include, for example, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group. . R ⁵ may have, for example, a hydroxyl group, and the hydroxyl group may further have a (poly) glycosyl group, a sulfuric acid (or salt thereof) group, a sulfonic acid (or salt thereof) group, a phosphoric acid (or a salt thereof). Salt) or a phosphoryl (or salt thereof) group.

R ⁵ is preferably a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group, for example, a C _1-10 alkyl group, particularly preferably a C _1-6 alkyl group.

  Among these ceramides, ceramides represented by the following formula (II) are usually used.

Where:
R ¹ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C _1-30 hydrocarbon group (preferably a C _10-24 alkyl group);
R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a glycosyl group, respectively.

  Examples of the ceramides include 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, and 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol. Diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N- (2-hydroxypalmitoyl) aminooctadecane-1,3-diol , 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, bis (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -cetyl acid-N- (3-cetyloxy 2-hydroxypropyl) amide.

(A-2) Higher alcohol or polyhydric alcohol or ester thereof Examples of the higher alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetanol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, hydrogenated lanolin alcohol, hexyldecanol, and octyl. Dodecanol, myristyl alcohol and the like. Of these, use of cetanol and stearyl alcohol is preferred.

  Examples of the polyhydric alcohol include glycerins such as glycerin, diglycerin, triglycerin, and tetraglycerin; ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and polyethylene. Glycols such as glycol; and 1,3-propanediol. Of these, the use of glycerin is particularly preferred.

  Examples of the ester of the alcohol include esters of a straight-chain fatty acid and a straight-chain alcohol (eg, ethyl oleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, etc.) Esters of higher alcohols (eg, octyldodecyl myristate, octyldodecyl oleate, etc.), esters of linear fatty acids and polyhydric alcohols [eg, medium chain fatty acid triglycerides (glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri (caprylic caprate)), dioleic acid Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, propylene glycol dioleate, glyceryl triundecylate, etc.], branched fatty acids and lower alcohols Esters (eg, isopropyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate, etc.), esters of branched fatty acids and higher alcohols (eg, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, stearyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isocetyl isostearate, octyldodecyl dimethyloctanoate), branched fatty acids And esters of polyhydric alcohols (eg, glyceryl 2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl isostearate, etc.), esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids and alcohols (eg, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, diisostearyl malate, etc.) Is mentioned. Of these, the use of esters of glycerin and fatty acids is recommended.

  These can be used alone or in combination, and in total, 0.001 to 20% by mass (more preferably 0.5% by mass or more and 15% by mass or less; further preferably 2.0% by mass or more and 10% by mass or less) ) Is recommended.

(A-3) Sterol or ester thereof Examples of the sterol include cholestanol, cholesterol, sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and the like; examples of the ester include these fatty acid esters (for example, cholesterol fatty acid ester). And the like. Among them, the use of cholesterol, cholesteryl stearate, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl oleate, phytosterol, phytosteryl isostearate, phytosteryl oleate is particularly recommended.

  These can be used alone or in combination, and in total, 0.001 to 5.0% by mass (more preferably 0.05% by mass or more and 3.0% by mass or less; further preferably 0.5% by mass or more, 2.0% by mass or less).

(A-4) Fatty acid or triglyceride thereof Examples of the fatty acid include C1 to C46 linear alkanoic acids (such as lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and behenic acid), and C3 to C30 linear alkenoic acids ( For example, acrylic acid, undecylenic acid, lauroleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, etc., C5-C24 alkanedi-tri-tetra and pentaneic acids (eg, sorbic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, etc.), and branched fatty acids (eg, Isostearic acid and the like). Of these, stearic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and isostearic acid are preferred.

  Also, triglycerides of the above-mentioned fatty acids are included in the scope of the present invention.For example, as vegetable oils, avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, soybean oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, persic oil, Palm kernel oil, palm oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, kukui nut oil, wheat germ oil, rice germ oil, shea butter, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, meadow home oil, carnauba wax Animal fats and oils, such as beef tallow, hardened oil, horse oil, mink oil, egg yolk fatty oil, whale oil, lanolin, shellac and the like.

  These can be used alone or in combination, and in total, 0.001 to 20% by mass (more preferably 0.15% by mass or more and 15% by mass or less; still more preferably 1.5% by mass or more and 9.0% by mass) %) Is recommended.

(A-5) Hydrocarbons Examples of the hydrocarbons include petroleum hydrocarbons (liquid paraffin, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, petrolatum, isoparaffin, etc.), natural mineral hydrocarbons (ozokerite, ceresin, etc.), and synthetic hydrocarbons. (Polyethylene, α-olefin oligomer, polybutene, synthetic squalane, etc.), animal hydrocarbons (squalene, squalane, etc.), vegetable hydrocarbons (squalene of olive oil or rice bran oil, squalane, etc.) and the like.

  These can be used alone or in combination, and in total, 0.001 to 20% by mass (more preferably 0.15% by mass or more and 15% by mass or less; further preferably 1.5% by mass or more and 9% by mass or less) ) Is recommended.

  Preferred combinations of these intercellular lipid components include sphingolipids (especially ceramides), higher alcohols (especially cetanol and stearyl alcohol) or polyhydric alcohols (especially glycerin), cholesterol, fatty acids or their triglycerides (especially stearic acid), And at least one component of hydrocarbons (especially squalane), and more preferably all of these components.

(B) Moisturizing component The skin cosmetic of the present invention comprises, as a moisturizing component, at least one component selected from the group consisting of amino acids or salts thereof, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid or salts thereof, organic acids or salts thereof, urea, and saccharides. It contains. Further, it may contain peptides, inorganic salts, uric acid, creatinine, and ammonia. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

(B-1) Amino acid or salt thereof; (B-2) Virolidone carboxylic acid or salt thereof Examples of the amino acid include α-amino acids (glycine, serine, alanine, threonine, arginine, lysine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid) , Asparagine, cysteine, etc.), and their salts are also included in the scope of the present invention. Further, in the present invention, the amino acids or salts other than those described above include pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid or a salt thereof (sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, potassium virolidonecarboxylate, etc.), and also include cystine and the like. Among these, arginine, lysine, glycine, serine, alanine, threonine, glutamic acid and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid are particularly preferred.

  These can be used alone or in combination, and in total, 0.001 to 5.0% by mass (more preferably 0.05% by mass or more and 3.0% by mass or less; further preferably 0.5% by mass or more, 2.0% by mass or less).

(B-3) Organic acid or salt thereof Examples of the organic acid include C2-28 oxycarboxylic acids such as lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid; succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid and malon C2 to 12 dicarboxylic acids such as acid and 1,3-propanedicarboxylic acid; and dicarboxylic acid monoesters such as octyl succinate and methyl maleate. Of these, lactic acid and citric acid are particularly preferred.

  Examples of the salts of organic acids include potassium salts, sodium salts (such as sodium lactate and sodium citrate), magnesium salts, calcium salts, aluminum salts, and basic amino acid salts of the above-mentioned organic acids. When it has a basic group, for example, acid addition salts such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid and phosphoric acid are also included. Among them, particularly preferred are sodium citrate, potassium citrate, sodium lactate and potassium lactate.

  These can be used alone or in combination, and in total, 0.001 to 5.0% by mass (more preferably 0.05% by mass or more and 3.0% by mass or less; further preferably 0.25% by mass or more, 1.5% by mass or less).

(B-4) Urea Urea is also added in the present invention because it has the effect of improving the decrease in water holding capacity of the stratum corneum and increasing the water holding amount of the stratum corneum. In order to exert such an effect, 0.001 to 10% by mass (more preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 7.5% by mass or less; still more preferably 0.5% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less) ) Is recommended.

(B-5) Saccharides Examples of the saccharide used in the present invention include monosaccharides such as sorbitol, mannitol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, xylitol, lactose, maltose, maltitol, trehalose, and erythritol, as well as gum arabic and arabic. Oligosaccharides such as nogalactan, alginic acid, carrageenan, guar gum, konjac mannan, dextrin, starch, agar, chitosan, chitin, pectin, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, cellulose, cellulose derivatives, and polysaccharides are also included. Of these, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are particularly preferred.

  These can be used alone or in combination, and in total, 0.001 to 15% by mass (more preferably 0.2% by mass or more and 10% by mass or less; more preferably 1.0% by mass or more and 5.0% by mass) %) Is recommended.

  Preferred combinations of these moisturizing components include amino acids (particularly serine, alanine, threonine, glycine, arginine, lysine, glutamic acid), pyrrolidone carboxylate (particularly sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate), organic acids (particularly citric acid), urea And at least one component selected from the group consisting of saccharides (particularly sorbitol or hyaluronic acid), and more preferably all of these components.

  In addition, in the present invention, the following components may be added, whereby the moisturizing ability is further improved.

(B-6) Peptide Examples of the peptide include glutathione, carnosine, hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed keratin, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk protein, soybean peptide, wheat peptide and the like. Of these, use of hydrolyzed keratin, keratin, hydrolyzed collagen, collagen, and silk protein is particularly preferred.

  These can be used alone or in combination, and in total, 0.001 to 5.0% by mass (more preferably 0.01% by mass or more and 2.5% by mass or less; further preferably 0.1% by mass or more, 1.0% by mass or less).

(B-7) Inorganic Salt Examples of the inorganic salt include salt, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, and bittern. Of these, particularly preferred are sodium chloride, magnesium chloride and calcium chloride.

  These can be used alone or in combination, and in total, 0.001 to 5.0% by mass (more preferably 0.01% by mass or more, 1.0% by mass or less; further preferably 0.05% by mass or more, 0.5% by mass or less).

(C) Phospholipids The above phospholipids include glycerophospholipids (eg, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, lecithin hydroxide, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylglycerol, cardiolipin, etc.), sphingolipids (sphingomyelin) , Serabroside, ganglioside, etc.). Among them, particularly preferred is hydrogenated lecithin (hydrogenated soybean lecithin).

  These can be used alone or in combination, and in total, 0.001 to 10% by mass (more preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 5.0% by mass or less; further preferably 0.5% by mass or more, 0.5% by mass or less).

  As described above, the present invention includes skin cosmetics containing the above (A) to (C) and liposome-containing skin cosmetics containing the above (A) to (B).

  In the latter skin cosmetics, the structure, components, preparation method, size, etc. of the liposome itself are not particularly limited as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

  For example, the structure of the liposome can include any of a large unilamellar liposome (LUV), a multilamellar liposome (MLV) and a small unilamellar liposome (SUV). It can have a particle size of 1000 nm, MLV of about 400-3500 nm, and SUV of about 20-50 nm.

Further, as the lipid for forming the liposome structure, the above-mentioned (C) phospholipid may be used. Further, well-known components as additives for liposome formation can also be used. Specifically, sterols (cholesterol, ergocalciferol, cholecalciferol, etc.), bile acids (cholic acid, deoxycholic acid, chenodoxycholic acid, etc.), saponins (triterpenoid saponins, steroid saponins, muclodi extract, etc.) Alternatively, two or more kinds may be used in combination.

  The method for preparing the liposome is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include an ether injection method, a surfactant method, a freeze-thaw method, a reverse phase evaporation method and the like for LUV; a Bangham method and the like for MLV, an ultrasonic treatment method and an ethanol injection method for SUV. A French press method or the like can be employed. These methods are basic methods for forming a liposome film, and these methods are appropriately combined, or after forming a liposome, a treatment such as ultraviolet light or radiation is performed to strengthen the film by polymerization. Planning is also effective.

  Specifically, after dissolving the above-described components in an organic solvent such as chloroform or ethanol, the solution is placed in an appropriate container, and the solvent is distilled off under reduced pressure to form a liposome-forming substance film on the inner surface of the container. . A liposome may be isolated by adding a buffer solution and stirring, and filtering or centrifuging the obtained suspension. The liposome thus obtained can be suspended in an appropriate solvent, or lyophilized and re-dispersed in an appropriate solvent before use.

  In the skin cosmetic of the present invention, components usually added to the cosmetic [for example, preservatives, sequestering agents, ultraviolet inhibitors, stabilizers, pigments such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, powders, pigments, etc. Can be added.

  However, it is necessary to avoid using the following components (1) and (2) in order to effectively exert the intended skin barrier repair ability in the present invention.

(1) Surfactants other than phospholipids (anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, nonionic surfactant)
When the surfactant is added, the production efficiency of liposomes or liquid crystals is reduced, the ability to form an intercellular matrix is reduced, and the detergency (degreasing power) is strong, which destroys the skin barrier. . Examples of such surfactants include anionic surfactants (alkyl ether carboxylate, acyl lactate, N-acyl sarcosine salt, N-acyl glutamate, N-acylmethylalanine salt, N-acylmethyltaurine salt, Alkane sulfonate, α-olefin sulfonate, α-sulfofatty acid methyl ester salt, alkyl sulfosuccinate, acyl isethionate, alkyl sulfate, alkyl ether sulfate, higher fatty acid alkanolamide sulfate, monoalkyl Phosphate salts, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates, etc.), amphoteric surfactants [alkyl glycine salts, carboxymethyl glycine salts, N-acylaminoethyl-N-2-hydroxyethyl glycine salts, alkylaminopropionates] , Archi Iluinodipropionate, N-acylaminoethyl-N-2-hydroxyethylpropionate, betaine alkyldimethylaminoacetate, betaine fatty acid amidopropyldimethylaminoacetate, betaine alkyldihydroxyethylaminoacetate, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium-N-propylsulfonate, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium-N- (2-hydroxypropyl) sulfonate, N-fatty acid amidopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium-N- (2-hydroxypropyl) sulfonate etc.] and nonionic surfactants (polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, etc.).

(2) Low-purity plant extracts Among low-purity plant extracts, low-purity plant extracts extracted with water, ethanol, 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG), propylene glycol, etc. are various. Harmful nerves may be chronically stimulated. It is known that such stimulation causes nerve fibers to extend to near the surface layer of the epidermis, and the use of such a plant extract should not be added because it promotes the sensitivity of sensitive skin. For example, eucalyptus extract, aloe extract, cuckoo extract, chlorella extract, etc. are usually extracted only with water, ethanol, 1,3-BG, propylene glycol, etc. It has been confirmed by experiments that skin cosmetics containing a plant extract induce redness, itchiness, and the like (see Examples described later).

  Furthermore, various components can be added to the skin cosmetic of the present invention for the purpose of imparting other effects within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. Specifically, whitening cosmetics that combine vitamin C to enhance the barrier function and also provide a whitening effect, UV inhibitors containing titanium oxide, etc., foundations containing pigments, antiperspirants containing zinc white Agents, and the like, whereby a cosmetic composition having the functions of the present invention can be provided while exhibiting the excellent skin barrier repair ability.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on examples. However, the following embodiments do not limit the present invention, and all modifications and alterations without departing from the spirit of the preceding and the following are included in the technical scope of the present invention.

Example 1
Example 1 In this example, the skin barrier repair ability of a 30-year-old woman using the liposome-containing skin cosmetic composition No. 1 of the present invention comprising the components shown in Table 1 was examined.

  First, the intercellular lipid component (A) and the phospholipid (C) shown in Table 1 were mixed and dissolved, and the moisturizing component (B) and paraben were dissolved in water, and then mixed with water. The liposome-containing skin cosmetic composition No. 1 of the present invention was prepared by the agent treatment method.

This cosmetic was used by three women in their 30s with sensitive skin for one week in the morning and evening, and from the viewpoint of moist feeling of the skin, dryness of the skin, gloss of the skin, degree of sensitive skin, and itching, They were scored according to the evaluation criteria.
1 It became very bad.
2 It got worse.
3 No change.
4 Improved.
5 Greatly improved.

  Table 2 shows the results.

  As shown in Table 2, when the skin cosmetic of the present invention was used, an improvement tendency was observed in all the evaluation items. In particular, one out of three persons showed a remarkable improvement in any of the evaluation items, confirming the excellent skin barrier repair ability of the cosmetic of the present invention.

Example 2 Examination of constituent components and added amount (part 1)
In this example, skin cosmetics (Nos. 1 to 12) composed of various components shown in Table 3 were used by women in their 20s to 50s having various skin qualities. The skin barrier repair ability was examined (self-evaluation). Note that No. 1 in Table 3 is the same component as No. 1 in the first embodiment.

  First, the intercellular lipid component (A) and the phospholipid (C) shown in Table 3 were mixed and dissolved, and the moisturizing component (B) and paraben were dissolved in water, and then mixed with a surfactant. Liposomal skin cosmetics Nos. 1 to 6 and 8 to 12 were prepared by the treatment method. In No. 7 in Table 3, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (surfactant) was used instead of the phospholipid (C).

  Further, for the purpose of comparison, commercially available products of the following Nos. 13 to 15 were prepared as conventional examples.

No. 13: contains only ceramide (A-1) as intercellular lipid component (A),
A commercially available product containing the moisturizing component (B) and the phospholipid (C) specified in the present invention.
Skin Cosmetic No. 14: Contains only ceramide (A-1) as intercellular lipid component (A).
While containing the moisturizing component (B) and the phospholipid (C) specified in the present invention,
No. 15: A commercially available skin cosmetic that also contains eucalyptus extract No. 15: Contains no intercellular lipid component (A),
While containing the moisturizing component (B) and the phospholipid (C) specified in the present invention,
Commercially available skin cosmetics also containing collagen These 20 to 15-year-old skin cosmetics Nos. 1 to 15 were used by 20 women in their 20s to 50s for 4 weeks in the morning and evening, and according to the same evaluation criteria as in Example 1. Self-evaluation of skin moistness, dryness of skin, luster of skin, degree of sensitive skin, and itching were performed. The results are shown in Tables 4 to 18, respectively.

  From the above results, it can be considered as follows.

  First, Nos. 1 and 8 (an example in which hyaluronic acid was further added as a saccharide (B-5) to No. 1) and 9 (to 1 No. 1, the amount of each component added was 1/10 ), 10 (Example in which the amount of each component added was 5 times as much as No. 1), 12 [In No. 1, macadamia nut oil was used as triglyceride (A-4) of fatty acid. Example in which jojoba oil is used in place of the above), all of which satisfy the requirements of the present invention, so that subjects with various skin qualities improved in all evaluation items regardless of age. A tendency was observed. In particular, it is noteworthy that an excellent improvement effect was observed even in subjects with atopic skin.

  Among them, a particularly remarkable improvement tendency was observed in No. 8 in which hyaluronic acid was further added to No. 1; It is 10. In these, remarkable improvement results were recognized for all the evaluation items, and the overall evaluation was extremely high at 4.87, and the skin barrier repair ability was extremely confirmed.

  Regarding the triglyceride (A-4) of the fatty acid, both in the case of using macadamia nut oil (No. 1) and in the case of using jojoba oil (No. 12), they are almost the same. An excellent improvement trend was observed. Furthermore, even when the amount of each component added was reduced to 1/10 of No. 1 (No. 9), an improvement tendency was recognized in each evaluation item (overall evaluation was 4.08).

  On the other hand, the following examples that did not satisfy any of the requirements defined in the present invention did not show any improvement tendency in any of the evaluation items.

  Among them, No. 2 is an example in which the cholesterol of (A-3) is not added in No. 1; No. 3 is an example in which the ceramide of (A-1) is not added in No. 1; No. 5 is an example in which no macadamia nut oil is added; No. 5 is an example in which no amino acid is added in (B-1) in No. 1; No. 6 is an example in which no (B- No. 4) No urea, (B-3) citric acid and (B-5) saccharide are not added; No. 7 is a polyoxyethylene-cured castor instead of (C) phospholipid in No. 1. This is an example of emulsification with oil, and the rating of each evaluation item was about 3.0 to 3.3, indicating no improvement effect.

  In addition, No. 11 is obtained by adding a plant extract (low-purity extracted with water, alcohol, 1,3-BG, etc.) to No. 1, and gives a moist feeling to the skin, Although there was a tendency for improvement in dryness and gloss of the skin, no significant improvement was obtained for the degree of sensitive skin and itching.

  Also, in the conventional examples of Nos. 13 to 15, the degree of improvement is lower than that of the examples of the present invention because all of the intercellular lipid components of (A) defined in the present invention are not satisfied.

  From the above results, it can be seen that by adjusting the composition of the skin cosmetic to the requirements defined in the present invention, a skin cosmetic excellent in skin barrier repair ability can be obtained.

  In addition, in addition to the above, it has been confirmed by experiments that formulation is difficult when the “higher alcohol or polyhydric alcohol or ester thereof” of (A-2) is not added.

  Further, when the peptide or inorganic salt is further added to the composition of No. 1 within the preferable range of the present invention, the improvement effect is expected to be further enhanced.

Example 3 Examination of constituent components and added amount (part 2)
In this example, skin cosmetics (Nos. 1 to 12) composed of various components shown in Table 3 described above and conventional examples Nos. 13 to 15 were subjected to atopic skin under the guidance of a dermatologist. The skin barrier repair ability when used by subjects with inflammation and healthy skin was scored by a dermatologist according to the diagnostic criteria of the dermatologist.

  Specifically, 10 subjects with atopic dermatitis and 10 subjects with healthy skin (both women in their 20s to 50s) were placed on the left side of each of the three places of the face, hands, and arms. The skin cosmetics of Nos. 1 to 15 were used in the morning and evening for a total of 4 weeks. However, as previously, subjects for atopic dermatitis use external preparations such as steroids, antiallergic agents, and antibacterial agents as needed for therapeutic purposes. For comparison, the skin cosmetic was not used on the right side of each of the three places of the face, hands, and arms. According to the evaluation manual prepared by the dermatologist, the evaluation items were five items of fineness, wetness, softness, redness, and itching, and the evaluation criteria described in Tables 19 to 33 (extremely useful; useful; somewhat Useful; useless; not preferred). According to the above evaluation criteria, "extremely useful", "useful", and "slightly useful" are determined to be "effective", while "useless" and "unfavorable" are determined to be "no effect" .

  For each of the tested skin cosmetics of Nos. 1 to 15, the total number of persons corresponding to each evaluation item was assigned to a subject with atopic dermatitis (atopic dermatitis group) and a subject with healthy skin (normal skin group), respectively. The results are shown in Tables 19 to 33.

  From the above results, it can be considered as follows.

  First, Nos. 1 and 8 [Example in which hyaluronic acid was further added as a saccharide (B-5) to No. 1], 9 (All of the components added to No. 1 were 1/10 ), 10 (Example in which the amount of each component added was 5 times as much as No. 1), 12 [In No. 1, macadamia nut oil was used as triglyceride (A-4) of fatty acid. Of the example in which jojoba oil was used in place of the above), all of which satisfy the requirements of the present invention, so that about 74 to 92% of subjects in the atopic dermatitis group and the normal skin group The effect was recognized, and the excellent skin barrier repair ability according to the present invention could be confirmed. A feature of the present invention is that the same or more excellent effects are exhibited not only in the normal skin group but also in the atopic dermatitis group (about 78 to 92%). It is extremely significant that the same tendency as in self-evaluation was observed in the results of diagnosis by dermatologists.

  In particular, a remarkable improvement was observed in No. 10 in which the amount of each component added was 5 times that of No. 1. In both the atopic dermatitis group and the normal skin group, The effect was observed in about 92% of the subjects. In addition, about 86-88% of the subjects also showed an effect of No. 8 to which No. 1 was further added with hyaluronic acid.

  On the other hand, examples other than the above (Comparative Examples of Nos. 2 to 7, 11 and Conventional Examples of 13 to 15) which do not satisfy any of the requirements defined in the present invention are all the same as those of the present invention described above. In comparison, the improvement effect is inferior. In particular, the number of subjects evaluated as “extremely useful” is smaller and the number of subjects determined as “unnecessary” is larger than those of the present invention. In particular, in the comparative example of No. 11, particularly in the conventional examples of Nos. 13 to 15, the number of subjects judged to be “undesirable” is large, but in the present invention examples, all subjects are judged to be “undesirable”. Considering that there were no subjects, the usefulness of the present invention can be inferred from this.

Claims (4)

At least one selected from the group consisting of sphingolipids, higher alcohols or polyhydric alcohols or esters thereof, sterols or esters thereof, fatty acids or triglycerides thereof, and hydrocarbons as intercellular lipid components;
Skin barrier repair characterized by containing at least one selected from the group consisting of amino acids or salts thereof, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids or salts thereof, organic acids or salts thereof, urea, and saccharides as moisturizing components; and phospholipids Excellent skin cosmetics. At least one selected from the group consisting of sphingolipids, higher alcohols or polyhydric alcohols or esters thereof, sterols or esters thereof, fatty acids or triglycerides thereof, and hydrocarbons as intercellular lipid components;
As a moisturizing component, it contains at least one selected from the group consisting of an amino acid or a salt thereof, a pyrrolidone carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, an organic acid or a salt thereof, urea, and a saccharide, and is excellent in skin barrier repair ability. Liposomal skin cosmetics. At least one selected from the group consisting of sphingolipids, higher alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, cholesterol, fatty acids or triglycerides thereof, and hydrocarbons as intercellular lipid components;
A liposome-containing skin cosmetic having excellent skin barrier repairing properties, characterized by containing, as a moisturizing component, at least one selected from the group consisting of amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylate, organic acids, urea, and saccharides. The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the sphingolipid is ceramide.