JP2004044036A

JP2004044036A - Multifilament yarn, method for producing the same and woven or knitted fabric containing the yarn

Info

Publication number: JP2004044036A
Application number: JP2002205583A
Authority: JP
Inventors: Yasushi Komura; 香村　恭史; Nobuhiro Yamaguchi; 山口　展弘
Original assignee: Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd; Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd
Current assignee: Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd; Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd
Priority date: 2002-07-15
Filing date: 2002-07-15
Publication date: 2004-02-12
Anticipated expiration: 2022-07-15
Also published as: JP4044802B2

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a multifilament yarn constituted of a single filament, having emphasized difference in visual density between a deep color dyeable part and a pale color dyeable part by arranging the pale color dyeable parts in the front and rear of the deep color dyeable part to show the deep dyed part deeper and to effectively exhibit the design. <P>SOLUTION: The multifilament yarn comprises a thermoplastic resin and has thickness change in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The constituting filament has the uniformly thick part of the deep color dyeable part, the uniformly thin part of the pale color dyeable part and an intermediate color dyeable part with an intermediate thickness, and the pale color dyeable parts are arranged so as to be present in front and in rear of the deep color dyeable part. The yarn is produced by intermittently bringing an undrawn multifilament yarn comprising the thermoplastic resin into contact with a pin heater at 140-250°C, and drawing the undrawn multifilament yarn at 1.05-1.80 times draw ratio to form the thickness unevenness in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、染色意匠性に富んだマルチフィラメント糸及びその製造方法並びに該糸を含む織編物に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
従来、複数の糸条を用いることなく単独糸で織編物に濃淡色染色効果を付与可能な糸条として、シックアンドシン糸やその仮撚加工糸が、例えば特開平７−２２９０３０号公報、特開平１０−２７３８２４号公報、特開平１１−２２７３８号公報等多数提案されている。また、より複雑な濃淡色斑の意匠効果を付与可能な糸として、従来のシックアンドシン糸に中間色の染色効果を付与可能な糸条が特開昭６１−２８９６３０号公報や特開平５−２５７３２号公報に開示されている。
【０００３】
しかしながら、単純な濃淡色の組み合わせのみでは、昨今の多様化するニーズに対応することは困難な状況となっている。また、特開昭６１−２８９６３０号公報や特開平５−２５７３２号公報に提案されている濃中淡色染色効果を付与可能な糸は、濃中淡色染色効果を付与可能な複合糸条と比較して染色工程や製編織工程で取り扱い易いが、ややもすると、濃色染色部と中間色染色部と淡色染色部が織編物表面で渾然一体に見え、複雑、かつ、効果的に染色効果を発揮するためには、濃中淡色染色部のパターン設計や染色工程管理が煩雑となっていた。
【０００４】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明の課題とするところは、上記問題点を解決することを目的とするもので、単独糸で構成され、かつ、濃色染色部の前後に淡色染色部を配置することによって、濃色染色部と淡色染色部の視覚的な濃度差が強調され、濃染部がより濃く見え、意匠性が効果的に発揮されるマルチフィラメント糸及びその製造方法並びに該糸を含む織編物を提供しようとするものである。
【０００５】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は、単独糸の糸長手方向に濃色染色部と淡色染色部と中間色染色部を有し、かつ、各染色部の配置を適正化すること、更には各染色部の長さや占有率等を適正化することで、布帛としたときに、効果的に染色意匠性を付与可能とするものである。
【０００６】
すなわち、本発明は熱可塑性樹脂からなるマルチフィラメント糸で構成され、糸の長手方向に太さ変化を有するマルチフィラメント糸であって、該構成フィラメント糸が、一様に太い濃色染色部、一様に細い淡色染色部及び中間の太さの中間色染色部を有し、かつ、濃色染色部の前後に淡色染色部が存在していることを特徴とするマルチフィラメント糸にある。
【０００７】
また本発明は、走行する熱可塑性樹脂からなる未延伸マルチフィラメント糸をピンヒーターに間歇接触させて延伸し太さ斑を形成させる加工方法において、設定延伸倍率が１．０５〜１．８０倍、ピンヒーター温度が１４０〜２５０℃であることを特徴とする上記マルチフィラメント糸の製造方法にある。
さらに本発明は、上記延伸工程に引続いて仮撚捲縮加工を施すことを特徴とする上記マルチフィラメント糸の製造方法にある。
【０００８】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明の実施の形態について必要により添付の図面を参照しながら具体的に説明する。
本発明のマルチフィラメント糸は、熱可塑性樹脂からなるマルチフィラメント（以下、単に熱可塑性マルチフィラメントと称す。）糸で構成され、かつ、糸の長手方向に太さ変化を有するマルチフィラメント糸であって、構成フィラメントが一様に太い濃色染色部、構成フィラメントが一様に細い淡色染色部、及び、構成フィラメントが中間の太さの中間色染色部を有し、かつ、濃色染色部の前後に淡色染色部が存在することを特徴とする。
具体的には、添付の図１に模式的糸形態で示すごとく、糸長手方向に中間色染色部２を介して、濃色染色部１の前後に淡色染色部３、３が存在してマルチフィラメント糸を構成している。
【０００９】
図２は、本発明のマルチフィラメント糸の糸長手方向の太さ変化を示すグラフの一例であり、計測器工業（株）製のイーブネステスター「ＫＥＴ８０−Ｃ」で糸長手方向の糸の質量変動を測定して得られたチャートである。
本発明のマルチフィラメント糸は、質量変動の平均値を示す中間色染色部に該当するチャート部分５を介して、質量変動の平均値よりも大きい濃色染色部に該当するチャート部分４の前後に質量変動の平均値よりも小さい淡色染色部に該当するチャート部分６、６が存在する特徴のあるチャート形態を示す。
なお、本発明では濃色染色部の前後に淡色染色部を配置することによって、濃色染色部と淡色染色部の視覚的な濃度差が強調され、より効果的に染色意匠性を得ることが可能となる。
【００１０】
本発明のマルチフィラメント糸において、構成フィラメントは各染色部内では一様な太さであることが必要であり、マルチフィラメント糸の濃色染色部を構成するフィラメントは濃染性の太部のみからなり、マルチフィラメント糸の淡色染色部を構成するフィラメントは淡染性の細部のみからなっている。各染色部内で、構成フィラメントの太さが一様でない場合には各染色部内で染色斑が形成され、濃色染色部と中間色染色部と淡色染色部が織編物表面で渾然一体に見えてしまい、好ましくない。
【００１１】
本発明のマルチフィラメント糸は、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ナイロン、ポリプロピレン、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート、ポリアクリル系重合体等の熱可塑性樹脂からなる合成繊維であれば特に限定されるものではなく、使用用途や必要な糸物性等を考慮して適宜選択すればよい。また、共重合系熱可塑性樹脂からなる合成繊維、或いは、サイドバイサイド型や芯鞘型等に複合紡糸された合成繊維であってもよい。なお、酸化チタン、導電性物質、酸化防止剤、耐候剤、帯電防止剤等の他成分が含有されていても特に問題なく、本発明の目的である染色意匠性に他の機能効果が付与され、実用的により好ましいものとなる。さらに熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸は、構成フィラメントの断面も特に限定されるものではなく、多角形断面糸、多様型断面糸、扁平断面糸、凹凸糸や中空糸等を用いることができ、目的とする織編物の風合いや光沢外観等を考慮して決定すればよい。
【００１２】
なお、本発明のマルチフィラメント糸は、その形態は特に限定されることはなく、エア処理が施された交絡糸やループ毛羽糸、或いは、追撚糸であってもよい。さらには、仮撚処理等を施した捲縮糸であってもよい。
【００１３】
本発明のマルチフィラメント糸において、濃色染色部及び淡色染色部の平均長さは特に限定されるものではないが、濃色染色部平均長さが１〜５０ｃｍ、好ましくは３〜３０ｃｍ、淡色染色部平均長さが０．５〜４０ｃｍ、好ましくは２〜２５ｃｍであり、濃色染色部平均長さが淡色染色部平均長さより大であることにより濃色染色部と淡色染色部の視覚的な濃度差が強調される。
【００１４】
また、本発明のマルチフィラメント糸において、中間色染色部の長さや糸長手方向の占有率は、目的の染色意匠性等を考慮して適宜設定すればよいが、中間色染色部の長さは０．０５〜１０ｍ、好ましくは０．１〜５ｍであり、糸長手方向における中間色染色部占有率が５０〜９９．５％、好ましくは６５．０〜９５．０％であると、染色意匠性に特に効果のある（　淡色染色部〜濃色染色部〜淡色染色部）　で構成された染色部群が効果的に配置されて、より好ましい染色意匠性を得ることができる。
【００１５】
次に、本発明のマルチフィラメント糸の製造方法を説明する。図３は本発明のマルチフィラメント糸を得るのに使用する装置の一例を示すものである。
熱可塑性樹脂からなる未延伸マルチフィラメント糸７を、フィードローラー８及びフィードローラー１２の間で、ピンヒーター９に間歇的に接触させながら延伸して太さ斑を形成させた後、引き続いてフィードローラー１２とフィードローラー１４の間でエア交絡ノズル１３を用いて交絡処理し、ガイド１５を介して、巻取機１６で巻き取る。なお、ピンヒーター９を間歇的にマルチフィラメント糸７に接触させる方法は特に限定されるものではないが、例えば、コンピューター１１等を含む装置で稼動条件を制御されたエアシリンダー１０を用いて、該マルチフィラメント糸７をピンヒーター９に接触あるいは非接触処理を行えばよい。
【００１６】
図４は仮撚捲縮加工と組み合わせた場合の装置の一例を示すものである。
上述の図３を用いた製造方法と同様に、熱可塑性未延伸マルチフィラメント糸７を、フィードローラー８及びフィードローラー１２の間で、間歇的にピンヒーター９に接触させながら延伸して太さ斑を形成させた後、引き続いて仮撚加撚域に供給し、第１ヒーター１８及び仮撚ユニット１９により加撚状態で熱固定し、仮撚ユニット１９とデリベリーローラー２０の間を通過時に解撚される。次いでデリベリーローラー２０と第２デリベリーローラー２２の間で、第２ヒーター２１により熱処理を施し、巻取機２３で巻き取る。
【００１７】
本発明の上述の製造方法において、第２ヒーター２１による熱処理は本発明のマルチフィラメント糸の製造方法に必須のものではなく、得られるマルチフィラメント糸の物性等の目的に応じて省略しても何ら問題はない。例えば、緊張下で熱処理を施すと、仮撚で付与された顕在トルクを低減され、後工程通過性を良好にすることが可能となる。また、緩和熱処理を施した場合には、糸長手方向の太さ斑が強調されて、より好ましい意匠効果が得られる。
【００１８】
本発明の製造方法で用いられる未延伸マルチフィラメント糸は、前述のごとく、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ナイロン、ポリプロピレン、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート、ポリアクリルニトリル系等の熱可塑性樹脂からなる合成繊維であれば特に限定されるものではない。なお、取り扱い性を考慮すると熱可塑性高配向未延伸糸を用いることが好ましい。例えば、複屈折率が２０×１０^−３〜８０×１０^−３のポリエチレンテレフタレートを主成分とした熱可塑性高配向未延伸マルチフィラメント糸等を好ましく用いることができる。
【００１９】
本発明の製造方法において、フィードローラー８とフィードローラー１２で設定された設定延伸倍率及びピンヒーター９の設定温度は、濃色染色部、中間色染色部及び淡色染色部の形成並びに相対的な意匠効果の程度に重大な影響を与える条件であり、一定の延伸条件下で適正な温度のピンヒーター９に間歇的に接触処理／非接触処理を施して熱可塑性高配向未延伸マルチフィラメント糸の可塑化状態を瞬間的に変化させることで、構成フィラメントが一様に太い濃色染色部、構成フィラメントが一様に細い淡色染色部、及び、構成フィラメントが中間の太さを有する中間色染色部を有し、かつ、濃色染色部の前後に淡色染色部が存在した本発明のマルチフィラメント糸を得ることが可能となる。
【００２０】
本発明の製造方法における設定延伸倍率は１．０５〜１．８０倍好ましくは１．２〜１．６５倍、ピンヒーター９の設定温度は、１４０〜２５０℃好ましくは１６０℃〜２２０℃が必要である。延伸倍率が１．０５倍未満であると糸を延伸する応力が低いためにピンヒーターに間歇的に接触したとしても糸太さ変化すなわち染色意匠効果は得られないものとなり、１．８０倍を超えると糸全体が一様に延伸されてしまうために糸太さ変化は得られなくなる。
一方、ピンヒーター９の設定温度が１４０℃未満であると比較的低温であるために熱可塑性高配向未延伸マルチフィラメント糸の可塑化状態を瞬間的に変化させることが困難となり、従来の濃中淡色形成糸のごとく濃色染色部と淡色染色部と中間色染色部がランダムに形成されてしまい、本発明の目的である染色意匠効果が得られなくなり、２５０℃を超えると単純なシックアンドシン糸となって濃中淡色の３種類の染色部を形成することが困難となる。
【００２１】
本発明のマルチフィラメント糸を含む織編物は、その混率並びに織編物組織を、目的の風合いや製品外観が得られる範囲で決定すればよい。また、本発明のマルチフィラメント糸単独からなる織編物、または該マルチフィラメント糸と他繊維との合撚糸からなる織編物、該マルチフィラメント糸を織編物の一部に用いた交編織物でもよく、本発明のマルチフィラメント糸の効果が得られる範囲内で種々の織編物を得ることが可能である。
【００２２】
【実施例】
以下、本発明を実施例を挙げてより具体的に説明する。
なお、本発明のマルチフィラメント糸における各染色部の長さは、計測器工業（株）製のイーブネステスター「ＫＥＴ８０−Ｃ」を用いて、糸長手方向の質量変動を測定し、得られたチャートから図３に示したように濃色染色部、中間色染色部、淡色染色部をそれぞれ測定した後、該測定速度とチャート記録紙速度を勘案して各染色部の長さを計算し、次いで、各染色部１０個所の平均値を算出して各染色部の平均長さとした。上記イーブネステスターによる測定は、試料を速度２０ｍ／分で走行させ、試料の繊度により加撚レベル、スロット、張力設定レベルを選択し、ノーマルテストで２．５分間測定し、速度１００ｃｍ／分でチャートを描いた。
また、糸長手方向に糸長２０ｍの質量変動測定を実施し、得られたチャートの内、中間色染色部の長さの総和を計算し、該総和の測定糸長（２０ｍ）に占める割合を中間色染色部占有率とした。
【００２３】
得られたマルチフィラメント糸を用い、１６ゲージの一口通編み機で製編し、この筒編み地を常法により精練、分散染料で染色し、目視にて染色意匠効果の評価を行った。なお、精練は通常の精練剤等を用いて７０℃で１５分間処理を行い、次いで、下記条件で分散染色を行った。

【００２４】
（実施例１）
供給糸としてポリエステル高配向未延伸マルチフィラメント糸（複屈折率４２×１０^−３、１３５デシテックス／３６フィラメント）を用いて、図３の装置により、延伸倍率１．５０倍、ピンヒーター温度２００℃、ピンヒーターへの糸接触／非接触時間のランダム変動値０．５３〜０．９３秒／０．０２〜０．０５秒、エア交絡ノズルのエア圧力０．４ＭＰａ、エア交絡時のオーバーフィード率１．５％、加工速度４００ｍ／分（フィードローラー：１４換算）で加工を行った。
【００２５】
得られた加工糸を用いた筒編地の染色意匠効果を目視にて評価を行ったところ、構成フィラメントが一様に太い濃色染色部、構成フィラメントが一様に細い淡色染色部、及び、構成フィラメントが中間の太さを有する中間色染色部を有し、かつ、濃色染色部の前後に淡色染色部が存在した染色意匠効果を有していた。
得られた加工糸の各染色部の長さを評価しところ、濃色染色部平均長さは２７．４ｃｍ、淡色染色部平均長さは１３．５ｃｍ、中間色染色部の長さが４．８ｍ〜６．０ｍ、糸長手方向の中間色染色部占有率が９１．７％であった。
【００２６】
（実施例２）
供給糸として実施例１と同じポリエステル高配向未延伸マルチフィラメント糸を用いて、図４の装置により、仮撚加撚工程前の延伸倍率１．５０倍、ピンヒーター温度２００℃、ピンヒーターへの糸接触／非接触時間のランダム変動値０．５３〜０．９３秒／０．０２〜０．０５秒、加工速度１００ｍ／分（デリベリーローラー換算）、仮撚数（仮撚方向：Ｚ）２５００Ｔ／ｍ、第１ヒーター温度２００℃、仮撚加撚時オーバーフィード−５％で延伸仮撚加工を行った。なお、仮撚後の熱セットは行わず、デリベリーローラー２０から直接巻取機２３で巻取った。
得られたマルチフィラメント糸を用いた筒編地の染色意匠効果を目視にて評価を行ったところ、構成フィラメントが一様に太い濃色染色部、構成フィラメントが一様に細い淡色染色部、及び構成フィラメントが中間の太さを有する中間色染色部を有し、かつ、濃色染色部の前後に淡色染色部が存在した染色意匠効果を有していた。
得られたマルチフィラメント糸の各染色部の長さを評価しところ、濃色染色部平均長さは７．４ｃｍ、淡色染色部平均長さは３．３ｃｍ、中間色染色部の長さが０．８ｍ〜１．５ｍ、糸長手方向の中間色染色部占有率が９１．９％であった。
【００２７】
（実施例３）
供給糸として実施例１で用いたものと同じポリエステル高配向未延伸マルチフィラメント糸を用いて、図４の装置により、仮撚加撚工程前の延伸倍率１．３０倍、ピンヒーター温度１６０℃、ピンヒーターへの糸接触／非接触時間のランダム変動値０．０７〜０．４２秒／０．０５〜０．１０秒、加工速度２００ｍ／分（デリベリーローラー換算）、仮撚数（仮撚方向：Ｚ）２２００Ｔ／ｍ、第１ヒーター温度２００℃、第２ヒーター温度２００℃、仮撚加撚時オーバーフィード−１０％、熱セット時オーバーフィード１０％で延伸仮撚加工を行った。
得られたマルチフィラメント糸を用いた筒編地の染色意匠効果を目視にて評価を行ったところ、構成フィラメントが一様に太い濃色染色部、構成フィラメントが一様に細い淡色染色部、及び、構成フィラメントが中間の太さを有する中間色染色部を有し、かつ、濃色染色部の前後に淡色染色部が存在した染色意匠効果を有していた。
得られたマルチフィラメント糸の各染色部の長さを評価しところ、濃色染色部平均長さは２１．３ｃｍ、淡色染色部平均長さは８．４ｃｍ、中間色染色部の長さが０．２ｍ〜１．２ｍ、糸長手方向の中間色染色部占有率が７１．３％であった。
【００２８】
（比較例１）
仮撚加撚工程前の延伸倍率を１．００倍とするほかは実施例３と同様の条件で加工を行った。イーブネステスターを用いて糸長手方向の質量変動を測定したところ、糸太さ変化は殆ど見られず、従って、筒編地による染色評価においても、濃中淡の異なる染色意匠効果が得られないものであった。
【００２９】
（比較例２）
仮撚加撚工程前の延伸倍率を２．００倍とするほかは実施例３と同様の条件で加工を行った。イーブネステスターを用いて糸長手方向の質量変動を測定したところ、明確な濃色染色部、淡色染色部が存在しないものであった。また、得られたマルチフィラメント糸を用いた筒編地の染色意匠効果を目視にて評価を行ったところ、糸長手方向に染色濃度差が認められず、布帛表面に染色意匠効果の乏しいものであった。
【００３０】
（比較例３）
ピンヒーター温度を１２５℃とするほかは実施例３と同様条件で加工を行った。イーブネステスターを用いて糸長手方向の質量変動を測定したところ、濃色染色部、淡色染色部、中間染色部がランダムに存在したものであった。また、得られたマルチフィラメント糸を用いた筒編地の染色意匠効果を目視にて評価を行ったところ、濃色染色部と淡色染色部と中間色染色部がランダムに形成された布帛表面となり、染色濃度差が渾然一体となった染色意匠効果の乏しいものとなった。
【００３１】
（比較例４）
ピンヒーター温度を２６０℃とするほかは実施例３と同様の条件で加工を行った。イーブネステスターを用いて糸長手方向の質量変動を測定したところ、濃色染色部と淡色染色部からのみなるものであった。また、得られたマルチフィラメント糸を用いた筒編地の染色意匠効果を目視にて評価を行ったところ、濃淡色染色効果を発現する従来のシックアンドシン糸を用いた布帛と同様の染色意匠効果が得られるのみであった。
【００３２】
【発明の効果】
本発明のマルチフィラメント糸は、濃色染色部、中間色染色部、淡色染色部による意匠性が効果的に発揮可能となるものであり、該マルチフィラメント糸を含む織編物は、上述の染色濃度の異なる染色部が布帛表面に効果的に配置されることで、極めて染色意匠性の富んだものとなり、衣料用織編物として好適なるものである。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明のマルチフィラメント糸の糸形態の模式的な一例を示すものである。
【図２】本発明のマルチフィラメント糸の糸長手方向における太さ変化を示すグラフの一例を示すものである。
【図３】本発明のマルチフィラメント糸の製造方法の一例を示す工程図である。
【図４】本発明のマルチフィラメント糸の製造方法の別の一例を示す工程図である。
【符号の説明】
１　　濃色染色部
２　　中間色染色部
３　　淡色染色部
４　　濃色染色部に該当するチャート部分
５　　中間色染色部に該当するチャート部分
６　　淡色染色部に該当するチャート部分
７　　熱可塑性未延伸マルチフィラメント糸
８　　フィードローラー
９　　ピンヒーター
１０　　エアシリンダー
１１　　コンピューター
１２　　フィードローラー
１３　　エア交絡ノズル
１４　　フィードローラー
１５　　ガイド
１６　　巻取機
１７　　ガイド
１８　　第１ヒーター
１９　　仮撚ユニット
２０　　デリベリーローラー
２１　　第２ヒーター
２２　　第２デリベリーローラー
２３　　巻取機[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a multifilament yarn rich in dyeing design, a method for producing the same, and a woven or knitted fabric containing the yarn.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, thick and thin yarns and false-twisted yarns thereof can be used as yarns capable of imparting a dark and light color dyeing effect to a woven or knitted fabric with a single yarn without using a plurality of yarns, for example, as disclosed in JP-A-7-229030, Many proposals have been made, such as Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. Hei 10-273824 and Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. Hei 11-22738. Further, as a yarn capable of imparting a more complex design effect of dark and light color spots, a yarn capable of imparting an intermediate color dyeing effect to a conventional thick and thin yarn is disclosed in JP-A-61-289630 or JP-A-5-25732. No. 5,009,045.
[0003]
However, it is difficult to respond to recent diversifying needs only by a simple combination of light and shade colors. Further, the yarns capable of imparting a dark, medium and light color dyeing effect proposed in JP-A-61-289630 and JP-A-5-25732 are compared with composite yarns capable of imparting a dark, medium and light color dyeing effect. It is easy to handle in the dyeing process and weaving process, but when it is a little, the dark color dyeing, the intermediate color dyeing and the light color dyeing appear completely integrated on the surface of the woven and knitted fabric, and the dyeing effect is complicated and effectively exhibited For this reason, the pattern design and the dyeing process management of the dark, medium and light color dyed parts have been complicated.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems, and is constituted by a single yarn, and by arranging a light-colored dyeing part before and after a dark-colored dyeing part, a dark-color dyeing is performed. To provide a multifilament yarn, a method for producing the same, and a woven or knitted fabric containing the yarn, in which the visual density difference between the dyed part and the light-colored dyed part is emphasized, the deeply dyed part looks darker, and the design is effectively exhibited. Is what you do.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention has a dark-colored portion, a light-colored portion, and an intermediate-colored portion in the yarn longitudinal direction of a single yarn, and optimizes the arrangement of each dyed portion, and furthermore, the length and occupancy of each dyed portion. By appropriately adjusting the properties, it is possible to effectively impart a dyeing design property to a fabric.
[0006]
That is, the present invention is a multifilament yarn composed of a multifilament yarn made of a thermoplastic resin and having a thickness change in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, wherein the constituent filament yarn is a uniformly thick dark-colored dyeing part. A multifilament yarn comprising a thin light-colored portion and a medium-colored intermediate-colored portion, and a light-colored portion before and after the dark-colored portion.
[0007]
Further, the present invention provides a processing method in which an undrawn multifilament yarn made of a traveling thermoplastic resin is intermittently brought into contact with a pin heater to form a thickness unevenness, wherein the set stretching ratio is 1.05 to 1.80 times, The method for producing a multifilament yarn according to the above, wherein the pin heater temperature is 140 to 250 ° C.
Further, the present invention resides in the method for producing a multifilament yarn described above, wherein false twist crimping is performed subsequent to the drawing step.
[0008]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be specifically described as necessary with reference to the accompanying drawings.
The multifilament yarn of the present invention is a multifilament yarn composed of a multifilament (hereinafter, simply referred to as a thermoplastic multifilament) yarn made of a thermoplastic resin, and having a thickness change in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. , The component filaments have a uniformly thick dark color stain, the component filaments have a uniformly thin light color stain, and the component filaments have an intermediate color intermediate color stain, and before and after the dark color stain. It is characterized by the presence of a light-colored part.
Specifically, as shown in the schematic yarn form in FIG. 1 attached, the multi-filament includes light-

colored dyeing portions

3 and 3 before and after the dark-colored dyeing portion 1 through the intermediate-color dyeing portion 2 in the yarn longitudinal direction. Make up the yarn.
[0009]
FIG. 2 is an example of a graph showing the change in thickness in the yarn longitudinal direction of the multifilament yarn of the present invention. The mass of the yarn in the yarn longitudinal direction is measured using an EVENESTESTER “KET80-C” manufactured by Keisoku Kogyo Co., Ltd. It is a chart obtained by measuring the fluctuation.
The multifilament yarn of the present invention has a mass before and after the chart portion 4 corresponding to the dark-colored dyed portion larger than the average value of the mass variation via the chart portion 5 corresponding to the intermediate color dyed portion indicating the average value of the mass variation. A chart form having a characteristic in which

chart portions

6 and 6 corresponding to a light-colored stained portion smaller than the average value of fluctuation are present.
In the present invention, by arranging the light-colored stained portion before and after the dark-colored stained portion, the visual density difference between the dark-colored stained portion and the light-colored stained portion is emphasized, and the dyeing design can be more effectively obtained. It becomes possible.
[0010]
In the multifilament yarn of the present invention, the constituent filaments need to have a uniform thickness within each dyed part, and the filaments constituting the dark dyed part of the multifilament yarn consist only of the thick dyeable thick part. The filaments constituting the light-colored dyed part of the multifilament yarn consist only of light-colored details. If the thickness of the constituent filaments in each dyed part is not uniform, dyed spots will be formed in each dyed part, and the dark dyed part, the intermediate color dyed part and the light colored part will look completely integrated on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. Is not preferred.
[0011]
The multifilament yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a synthetic fiber made of a thermoplastic resin such as polyethylene terephthalate, nylon, polypropylene, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and a polyacrylic polymer. What is necessary is just to select suitably considering thread physical properties etc. Further, it may be a synthetic fiber made of a copolymer thermoplastic resin, or a synthetic fiber conjugate-spun into a side-by-side type or a core-sheath type. In addition, even if other components such as titanium oxide, a conductive substance, an antioxidant, a weathering agent, and an antistatic agent are contained, there is no particular problem, and other functional effects are imparted to the dyeing design property which is the object of the present invention. This is practically more preferable. Furthermore, the cross section of the constituent filaments of the thermoplastic multifilament yarn is not particularly limited, and a polygonal cross-section yarn, a multi-section cross-section yarn, a flat cross-section yarn, an uneven cross-section yarn, a hollow yarn, or the like can be used. What is necessary is just to determine in consideration of the texture of a woven / knitted fabric, glossy appearance, etc.
[0012]
In addition, the form of the multifilament yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be an air-treated entangled yarn, a loop fluff yarn, or a twisted yarn. Further, a crimped yarn subjected to a false twisting treatment or the like may be used.
[0013]
In the multifilament yarn of the present invention, the average length of the dark-colored dyed portion and the light-colored dyed portion is not particularly limited, but the average length of the dark-colored dyed portion is 1 to 50 cm, preferably 3 to 30 cm, and the light-colored dyed portion. The average part length is 0.5 to 40 cm, preferably 2 to 25 cm, and the dark-colored part and the light-colored part are visualized by the fact that the dark-colored part average length is larger than the light-colored part average length. The density difference is emphasized.
[0014]
In the multifilament yarn of the present invention, the length of the intermediate color dyed portion and the occupancy in the yarn longitudinal direction may be appropriately set in consideration of the intended dyeing design, etc. When the occupation ratio of the intermediate color dyed portion in the yarn longitudinal direction is 50 to 99.5%, preferably 65.0 to 95.0%, the dyeing design is particularly improved. A group of dyed parts composed of effective (light-colored part to dark-colored part to light-colored part) is effectively arranged, so that more preferable dyeing design can be obtained.
[0015]
Next, a method for producing the multifilament yarn of the present invention will be described. FIG. 3 shows an example of an apparatus used to obtain the multifilament yarn of the present invention.
The unstretched multifilament yarn 7 made of a thermoplastic resin is stretched between the feed roller 8 and the feed roller 12 while intermittently contacting the pin heater 9 to form unevenness in thickness. The entanglement process is performed between the feed roller 12 and the feed roller 14 using the air entanglement nozzle 13, and is wound up by the winder 16 via the guide 15. The method of intermittently bringing the pin heater 9 into contact with the multifilament yarn 7 is not particularly limited. For example, the method includes using an air cylinder 10 whose operating conditions are controlled by a device including a computer 11 or the like. The multifilament yarn 7 may be contacted or non-contacted with the pin heater 9.
[0016]
FIG. 4 shows an example of an apparatus when combined with false twist crimping.
Similar to the manufacturing method using FIG. 3 described above, the thermoplastic unstretched multifilament yarn 7 is stretched between the feed roller 8 and the feed roller 12 while intermittently contacting the pin heater 9, and the thickness thereof is varied. Is formed, and subsequently supplied to the false twisting and twisting area, heat-set in a twisted state by the first heater 18 and the false twisting unit 19, and unraveled when passing between the false twisting unit 19 and the delivery roller 20. Twisted. Next, a heat treatment is performed by the second heater 21 between the delivery roller 20 and the second delivery roller 22, and the winding is performed by the winder 23.
[0017]
In the above-described production method of the present invention, the heat treatment by the second heater 21 is not essential to the method of producing the multifilament yarn of the present invention, and may be omitted depending on the purpose such as the physical properties of the obtained multifilament yarn. No problem. For example, when the heat treatment is performed under tension, the apparent torque given by false twist is reduced, and the post-process passability can be improved. When the relaxation heat treatment is performed, unevenness in the thickness in the longitudinal direction of the yarn is emphasized, and a more favorable design effect is obtained.
[0018]
As described above, the undrawn multifilament yarn used in the production method of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a synthetic fiber made of a thermoplastic resin such as polyethylene terephthalate, nylon, polypropylene, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polyacrylonitrile. Not something. In consideration of handling properties, it is preferable to use a thermoplastic highly oriented undrawn yarn. For example, a thermoplastic high-orientation undrawn multifilament yarn mainly containing polyethylene terephthalate having a birefringence of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ can be preferably used.
[0019]
In the manufacturing method of the present invention, the set stretching ratio set by the feed roller 8 and the feed roller 12 and the set temperature of the pin heater 9 are set to form a dark-colored portion, an intermediate-colored portion, and a light-colored portion, and a relative design effect. Is a condition that has a significant effect on the degree of heat treatment. Under certain stretching conditions, the pin heater 9 at an appropriate temperature is subjected to intermittent contact treatment / non-contact treatment to plasticize the thermoplastic highly oriented undrawn multifilament yarn. By instantaneously changing the state, the constituent filaments have a uniformly thick dark colored part, the constituent filaments have a uniformly thin light colored part, and the constituent filaments have an intermediate colored part having an intermediate thickness. In addition, it becomes possible to obtain the multifilament yarn of the present invention in which a light-colored portion exists before and after a dark-colored portion.
[0020]
In the production method of the present invention, the set stretching ratio is 1.05 to 1.80 times, preferably 1.2 to 1.65 times, and the set temperature of the pin heater 9 is 140 to 250 ° C, preferably 160 to 220 ° C. It is. When the draw ratio is less than 1.05 times, the stress for drawing the yarn is low, so that even if the yarn is intermittently contacted with the pin heater, the yarn thickness change, that is, the dyeing design effect cannot be obtained. If it exceeds, since the entire yarn is drawn uniformly, a change in yarn thickness cannot be obtained.
On the other hand, if the set temperature of the pin heater 9 is lower than 140 ° C., the temperature is relatively low, so that it is difficult to instantaneously change the plasticized state of the thermoplastic high-orientation undrawn multifilament yarn. As in the case of the light-color forming yarn, the dark-color dyed portion, the light-color dyed portion and the intermediate color dyed portion are randomly formed, and the dyeing design effect, which is the object of the present invention, cannot be obtained. As a result, it becomes difficult to form three types of dyed portions of dark, medium and light colors.
[0021]
In the woven or knitted fabric containing the multifilament yarn of the present invention, the mixing ratio and the woven or knitted fabric structure may be determined within a range where a desired texture and product appearance can be obtained. Further, a woven or knitted fabric comprising the multifilament yarn of the present invention alone, or a woven or knitted fabric comprising a ply twisted yarn of the multifilament yarn and another fiber, a cross-knitted woven fabric using the multifilament yarn as a part of the woven or knitted fabric may be used. Various woven or knitted fabrics can be obtained as long as the effects of the multifilament yarn of the present invention can be obtained.
[0022]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples.
In addition, the length of each dyed part in the multifilament yarn of the present invention was obtained by measuring the mass fluctuation in the yarn longitudinal direction using an EVENESTESTER “KET80-C” manufactured by Keisoku Kogyo Co., Ltd. As shown in FIG. 3, after measuring the dark-colored portion, the intermediate-colored portion, and the light-colored portion from the chart, the length of each dyed portion was calculated in consideration of the measurement speed and the chart recording paper speed. The average value of each of the 10 stained portions was calculated to be the average length of each stained portion. In the measurement by the above EVENESTESTER, the sample is run at a speed of 20 m / min, a twisting level, a slot, and a tension setting level are selected according to the fineness of the sample, and a normal test is performed for 2.5 minutes, and the speed is 100 cm / min. I drew a chart.
In addition, a mass variation measurement of a yarn length of 20 m was performed in the yarn longitudinal direction, and the total of the lengths of the intermediate color dyed portions was calculated from the obtained chart, and the ratio of the total to the measured yarn length (20 m) was determined as the intermediate color. The occupancy of the stained area was defined.
[0023]
Using the obtained multifilament yarn, the knitted fabric was knitted with a 16-gauge single-pass knitting machine, and this tubular knitted fabric was scoured and dyed with a disperse dye by a conventional method, and the dyeing design effect was visually evaluated. The scouring was performed at 70 ° C. for 15 minutes using an ordinary scouring agent and the like, followed by disperse dyeing under the following conditions.

[0024]
(Example 1)
Using a polyester highly oriented unstretched multifilament yarn (birefringence: 42 × 10 ⁻³ , 135 dtex / 36 filaments) as a supply yarn, a stretching magnification of 1.50 times, a pin heater temperature of 200 ° C., and an apparatus of FIG. Random fluctuation value of thread contact / non-contact time to pin heater 0.53-0.93 sec / 0.02-0.05 sec, air pressure of air entanglement nozzle 0.4MPa, overfeed ratio at air entanglement 1 Processing was performed at a processing speed of 0.5% and a processing speed of 400 m / min (feed roller: 14 conversion).
[0025]
When the dyeing design effect of the tubular knitted fabric using the obtained processed yarn was visually evaluated, the constituent filaments were uniformly thick dark colored parts, the constituent filaments were uniformly thin light colored parts, and The constituent filament had an intermediate color dyed portion having an intermediate thickness, and had a dyeing design effect in which a light color dyed portion existed before and after the dark color dyed portion.
When the length of each dyed portion of the obtained processed yarn was evaluated, the average length of the dark color dyed portion was 27.4 cm, the average length of the light color dyed portion was 13.5 cm, and the length of the intermediate color dyed portion was 4.8 m. -6.0 m, and the occupation ratio of the intermediate color dyed portion in the yarn longitudinal direction was 91.7%.
[0026]
(Example 2)
Using the same polyester highly oriented undrawn multifilament yarn as in Example 1 as the supply yarn, the apparatus shown in FIG. 4 was used to draw 1.50 times the false twisting and twisting step, a pin heater temperature of 200 ° C., and a pin heater. Random fluctuation value of yarn contact / non-contact time 0.53 to 0.93 seconds / 0.02 to 0.05 seconds, processing speed 100 m / min (delivery roller conversion), number of false twists (false twist direction: Z) Stretching false twisting was performed at 2500 T / m, a first heater temperature of 200 ° C, and an overfeed of 5% during false twist twisting. In addition, the heat setting after false twist was not performed, but was wound directly by the winder 23 from the delivery roller 20.
When the dyeing design effect of the tubular knitted fabric using the obtained multifilament yarn was visually evaluated, the constituent filaments were uniformly thick dark colored parts, the constituent filaments were uniformly thin light colored parts, and The constituent filament had an intermediate color dyed portion having an intermediate thickness, and had a dyeing design effect in which a light color dyed portion existed before and after the dark color dyed portion.
When the length of each dyed portion of the obtained multifilament yarn was evaluated, the average length of the dark color dyed portion was 7.4 cm, the average length of the light color dyed portion was 3.3 cm, and the length of the intermediate color dyed portion was 0.3 cm. 8 m to 1.5 m, and the occupation ratio of the intermediate color dyed portion in the yarn longitudinal direction was 91.9%.
[0027]
(Example 3)
Using the same polyester highly oriented undrawn multifilament yarn as that used in Example 1 as the supply yarn, the apparatus of FIG. 4 used a stretching ratio of 1.30 before the false twisting and twisting step, a pin heater temperature of 160 ° C., Random fluctuation value of thread contact / non-contact time to pin heater 0.07 to 0.42 sec / 0.05 to 0.10 sec, processing speed 200 m / min (delivery roller conversion), number of false twists (false twist) Direction: Z) Stretch false twisting was performed at 2200 T / m, a first heater temperature of 200 ° C., a second heater temperature of 200 ° C., an overfeed of -10% during false twisting and a 10% overfeed during heat setting.
When the dyeing design effect of the tubular knitted fabric using the obtained multifilament yarn was visually evaluated, the constituent filaments were uniformly thick dark colored parts, the constituent filaments were uniformly thin light colored parts, and In addition, the constituent filaments had an intermediate color dyed portion having an intermediate thickness, and had a dyeing design effect in which a light color dyed portion existed before and after the dark color dyed portion.
When the length of each dyed portion of the obtained multifilament yarn was evaluated, the average length of the dark color dyed portion was 21.3 cm, the average length of the light color dyed portion was 8.4 cm, and the length of the intermediate color dyed portion was 0.5 mm. 2 m to 1.2 m, and the occupation ratio of the intermediate color dyed portion in the yarn longitudinal direction was 71.3%.
[0028]
(Comparative Example 1)
Processing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 3 except that the stretching ratio before the false twisting and twisting step was set to 1.00. When the variation in the yarn length direction was measured using an evenness tester, little change in the yarn thickness was observed, and therefore, even in the evaluation of the dyeing by the tubular knitted fabric, different dyeing design effects of different shades and shades were not obtained. Was something.
[0029]
(Comparative Example 2)
Processing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 3 except that the stretching ratio before the false twisting and twisting step was set to 2.00. When the mass fluctuation in the yarn longitudinal direction was measured using an evenness tester, no clear dark-colored portion or light-colored portion was present. Further, when the dyeing design effect of the tubular knitted fabric using the obtained multifilament yarn was visually evaluated, no difference in dyeing concentration was observed in the yarn longitudinal direction, and the dyeing design effect on the fabric surface was poor. there were.
[0030]
(Comparative Example 3)
Processing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 3 except that the pin heater temperature was set to 125 ° C. When the mass fluctuation in the longitudinal direction of the yarn was measured using an evenness tester, it was found that the dark-colored portion, the light-colored portion, and the intermediate dyed portion were randomly present. In addition, when the dyeing design effect of the tubular knitted fabric using the obtained multifilament yarn was visually evaluated, the dark-colored portion, the light-colored portion, and the intermediate-colored portion became a randomly formed fabric surface, The dyeing design effect, in which the differences in the dyeing densities were completely integrated, was poor.
[0031]
(Comparative Example 4)
Processing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 3 except that the pin heater temperature was set to 260 ° C. When the variation in the mass in the longitudinal direction of the yarn was measured using an evenness tester, it was found that the yarn consisted only of dark-colored parts and light-colored parts. In addition, when the dyeing design effect of a tubular knitted fabric using the obtained multifilament yarn was visually evaluated, the same dyeing design as that of a fabric using a conventional thick and thin yarn exhibiting a dark and light color dyeing effect was obtained. Only an effect was obtained.
[0032]
【The invention's effect】
The multifilament yarn of the present invention is a dark-colored portion, an intermediate-color dyed portion, and a light-colored dye portion, in which the design can be effectively exhibited, and the woven or knitted material containing the multifilament yarn has the above-described dyeing density. When the different dyed portions are effectively arranged on the surface of the fabric, the dyed design becomes extremely rich, and is suitable as a woven or knitted fabric for clothing.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 shows a schematic example of a yarn form of a multifilament yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is an example of a graph showing a change in thickness of the multifilament yarn of the present invention in the yarn longitudinal direction.
FIG. 3 is a process chart showing an example of a method for producing a multifilament yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a process chart showing another example of the method for producing a multifilament yarn of the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
Reference Signs List 1 dark colored part 2 intermediate colored part 3 light colored part 4 chart part corresponding to dark colored part 5 chart part corresponding to intermediate colored part 6 chart part corresponding to light colored part 7 Thermoplastic undrawn multifilament yarn 8 Feed roller 9 Pin heater 10 Air cylinder 11 Computer 12 Feed roller 13 Air entanglement nozzle 14 Feed roller 15 Guide 16 Winder 17 Guide 18 First heater 19 False twisting unit 20 Delivery roller 21 Second heater 22 Second delivery roller 23 Winder

Claims

A multifilament yarn comprising a multifilament yarn made of a thermoplastic resin and having a thickness change in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, wherein the constituent filament yarn has a uniformly thick dark-colored portion and a uniformly thin light-color dyed portion. A multi-filament yarn comprising a dyed portion having a color portion and an intermediate-color dyed portion having an intermediate thickness, and a light-colored dyed portion existing before and after the dark-colored dyed portion.

The average length of the dark-colored dyed part is 1 to 50 cm, the average length of the light-colored dyed part is 0.5 to 40 cm, and the average length of the dark-colored dyed part is larger than the average length of the light-colored dyed part. The multifilament yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that:

3. The multifilament yarn according to claim 1, wherein the length of the intermediate color dyeing portion is 0.05 to 10 m, and the occupation ratio of the intermediate color dyeing portion in the yarn longitudinal direction is 50 to 99.5%. .

In a processing method in which an undrawn multifilament yarn made of a traveling thermoplastic resin is intermittently brought into contact with a pin heater and drawn to form uneven thickness, the set draw ratio is 1.05 to 1.80 times, and the pin heater temperature is 140. To 250 ° C.

5. The method for producing a multifilament yarn according to claim 4, wherein a false twist crimping process is performed subsequent to the step of forming a thickness unevenness by intermittent contact drawing with a pin heater.

A woven or knitted fabric comprising the multifilament yarn according to claim 1, 2 or 3.