JP2003522726A - Makeup method for treating colored hair - Google Patents

Abstract

  (57) [Summary] The present invention is a cosmetic method of treating mammalian colored hair to reduce or prevent fading and / or discoloration, comprising: (a) a composition comprising: (a) a hair comprising a hydrophobic and / or cationic conditioning agent; And then (b) wetting the hair. The invention can optionally include, after step (b), treating the hair with a composition comprising a conditioning agent and / or a UV filter agent. The method of the present invention reduces or prevents fading and / or discoloration of colored hair. This method can help maintain a more permanent color and can thus extend the interval between dye applications.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic method of reducing or preventing the fading and / or discoloration by treating the colored hair of mammals.

[0002] The desire to change the color of the hair of the background person of the invention is not limited to the modern. Since the days of the Roman Empire, the color of human hair has changed daily, accommodating changes in fashion and style. However, keeping the original shade on the hair as it is for a desired period of time is an elusive goal. Once the hair is colored, it is desired that the color remain unchanged for a predictable period of time. In addition, it is desirable that the color withstand fading as caused by other external factors such as wash action (also known as wash fixability) and the action of sunlight. Therefore, what is desired is a somewhat balancing act between the desire to retain an unchanged color and the need to expose colored hair to factors that lead to fading and / or discoloration.

Thus improving resistance to fading and / or discoloration, such as that caused by normal washing practices, exposure to water from rain or other sources (eg water during swimming) or the action of sunlight. It is desirable to develop a method for treating colored hair, whereby a more invariant coloration is maintained between dye applications.

Pretreatment of hair prior to washing is known in the art. For example, US Pat. No. 440
2936 (Kao) discloses pretreatment compositions containing cyclic cationic groups having various beneficial conditioning effects. US Pat. No. 5,700,456
No. L'Oreal discloses a pretreatment composition containing a ceramide and a cationic polymer in order to provide an untangling effect. British Patent No. 1570220 (L'Oreal) discloses a pretreatment composition containing a cationic material for eliminating the adverse effects of fading and dyeing treatments. Japanese Patent No. 60087208 (Shiseido)
Discloses a pretreatment with a metal salt to prevent the outflow of protein components during shampoo, which improves chemically damaged hair and additionally protects the hair. However, none of these references discloses the use of the pretreatment composition on colored hair to prevent or reduce fading / discoloration.

Surprisingly, wet or dry, colored hair is treated with a composition containing a hydrophobic and / or cationic conditioning agent before washing with shampoo or before being exposed to water. It has been found that this reduces or prevents discoloration and / or discoloration caused by said washing or exposure to water.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention is a cosmetic method of treating colored hair of a mammal to reduce or prevent fading and / or discoloration, comprising: (a) treating the hair with a hydrophobic and / or cationic system. A cosmetic method comprising: treating with a composition comprising a conditioning agent, and then (b) wetting the hair. The present invention can optionally include, after step (b), treating the hair with a composition comprising a conditioning agent and / or a UV filter agent. The method of the present invention reduces or prevents fading and / or discoloration of colored hair. This method can help maintain a more consistent color and thus extend the interval between dye applications.

[0007] The method according to the invention of the invention comprises at least two essential steps, the first is a pre-processing step, the second is a wet process. Without necessarily intending to limit the scope of the invention, it is believed that pretreatment with the composition containing the conditioning agent "seales" the hair, thereby preventing or reducing the possible leaching of dye molecules that may be caused by water.

As used herein, “colored hair” means hair that has been treated to change its color. In particular, it is due to a dyeing treatment which permanently or temporarily changes the natural color of the hair. As used herein, "fading and / or discoloration" means the change in color of colored hair due to the action of external conditions. In particular, by exposing the colored hair to sunlight or water.

As used herein, “reducing or preventing discoloration and / or discoloration” means preventing, delaying, and / or stopping the change in hair color. By reducing or preventing fading and / or discoloration, more consistent color can be achieved and dye application intervals can be extended. As used herein, "wet hair" means exposing hair to water. In particular, this exposure to water is due to cleaning practices, such as shampoo and other activities such as swimming. When the method is a cleansing act, it is preferred to perform such act frequently, preferably once a day to once a week, more preferably once a day to once every three days, most preferably Is once a day.

Pretreatment Step One of the essential steps of the method of the present invention is the pretreatment of colored hair with a composition containing a conditioning agent. In the present invention, any conditioning agent that is preferably used for hair can be used. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one hydrophobic and / or cationic conditioning agent. Suitable conditioning agents include cationic surfactants, cationic polymers,
Volatile and non-volatile silicone (including silicone soluble and insoluble), non-volatile hydrocarbons, saturated C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ straight chain fatty alcohols, nonvolatile hydrocarbon esters, liquid polyol carboxylic acid esters, and their A mixture of Preferred conditioning agents are cationic surfactants, cationic polymers and silicones (especially insoluble silicones).

Cationic Surfactants Cationic surfactants useful in the method of the present invention include an amino or quaternary ammonium moiety. The cationic surfactant is preferably insoluble in the composition,
Not necessarily insoluble. Among those useful in the present invention, cationic surfactants are disclosed in the following documents, all of which are incorporated herein by reference: McCutcheon's "Detergents End Emulsifiers". (Detergents & Emulsifier) "(North American version 1979) MC
Published by MC Publishing Co .; Schwartz (Sc
Hwarts, et al., "Surfactants, Their Chemistry and Technology," 1949, New York: Published by Interscience Publishers; US Patent issued to Hilfer on November 3, 1964. No. 3,155,591; US Pat. No. 3,929,678 issued to Laughlin et al. On Dec. 30, 1975; to Bailey et al. On May 25, 1976. To U.S. Pat. No. 3,959,461; and June 7, 1983, Bolich Jr. U.S. Pat. No. 4,387,090 issued to.

Among the cationic surfactants containing quaternary ammonium groups, those useful in the present invention are represented by the following general formula:

[0013]

[Chemical 1]

In the formula, R _{1 to} R ₄ are independently an aliphatic group having about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms or about 1 carbon atom.
To about 22 aromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups or alkylaryl groups; X
Is a salt, such as those selected from halogen (eg, chloride, bromide) groups, acetate groups, citrate groups, lactate groups, glycolate groups, phosphate groups, nitrate groups, sulfate groups, and alkyl sulfate groups. It is a forming anion. The aliphatic group may contain other groups such as an ether bond and an amino group in addition to the carbon atom and the hydrogen atom. Long chain aliphatic groups, such as those having about 12 carbons or more, may be saturated or unsaturated.
Particularly preferred are di - long chain (e.g., di--C ₁₂ -C _22, preferably di -C ₁₆ -C _18, aliphatic, preferably alkyl), di - short chain (e.g., C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl, preferably C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl) quaternary ammonium salts.

Salts of primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines are also suitable cationic surfactants. The alkyl group of such amines preferably has from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms and is substituted or unsubstituted. Such amines useful in the present invention include stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethyl stearamide, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl soy amine, soy amine, myristyl amine, tridecyl amine, ethyl stearyl amine, N-tallow. Propanediamine, (
Ethoxylated stearylamine (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide), dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine. Suitable amine salts include halogen salts, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, citrates, lactates, and alkylsulfates. Such salts include stearylamine hydrochloride, soybean amine chloride, stearylamine formate, N-tallow propanediamine dichloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine citrate. Cationic amine surfactants that may be mentioned as useful in the present invention are 19
No. 4,275,055 issued to Nachtigal et al. On June 23, 1981.

The cationic surfactant is preferably in the composition from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 5%, most preferably about 0.5%. Used in an amount of from wt% to about 2 wt%.

Cationic Polymer Conditioning Agents The conditioning compositions useful in the present invention may also include one or more cationic polymer conditioning agents. The cationic polymer conditioning agent is preferably water soluble. Cationic polymers are typically used in the same ranges as disclosed above for cationic surfactants.

A “water-soluble” cationic polymer has sufficient solubility in water and has a temperature of 25 ° C.
At a concentration of 0.1% in water (distilled water or equivalent water), a polymer that forms a substantially clear solution with the naked eye. Preferably, the polymer is sufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear solution at a concentration of 0.5%, more preferably 1.0%. The term "polymer" as used in the present invention includes materials obtained by the polymerization of one type of monomer or two or more types (ie, copolymers) of monomers.

The cationic polymer generally has a weight average molecular weight of about 5,000 or more, typically about 10,000 or more and about 10 million or less. Preferably, the molecular weight is about 1
It is from 0,000 to about 2,000,000. Cationic polymers generally have cationic nitrogen-containing moieties, such as quaternary ammonium or cationic amino moieties, and mixtures thereof.

As the anionic counterion of the cationic polymer, any anionic counterion can be used as long as it meets the standard of solubility in water. Suitable counterions include halide (eg Cl, Br, I, or F, preferably Cl, Br, or I) sulfate, and methyl sulfate. This example is not exclusive and others can be used.

The cationic nitrogen-containing moiety is generally present as a substituent in the fraction of all monomer units of the cationic hair conditioning polymer. Thus, cationic polymers may include, for example, copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine-substituted monomer units and other non-cationic units referred to herein as spacer monomer units.
Such polymers are known in the art, and a variety of such substances have been found in the CIFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionar by the Estrin, Crosley, and Haynes editors.
y) 3rd Edition (Cosmetic, Toiletry, Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington DC)
Washington, DC,) 1982).

Examples of suitable cationic polymers include acrylamide, methacrylamide,
Alkyl acrylamides and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl methacrylamides and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylates, alkyl methacrylates, vinyl caprolactones, and vinyl monomers with cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionality, along with water soluble spacer monomers such as vinylpyrrolidone. Copolymers may be mentioned. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably C ₁ -C ₇ alkyl groups, more preferably C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl group. Other suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (obtained by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

The cationic amine can be a primary amine, a secondary amine, or a tertiary amine, depending on the particular nature of the composition and the pH. After the amine-substituted vinyl monomer is polymerized in the form of amine, it can be converted to ammonium by a quaternization reaction. Amines may likewise be quaternized after polymer formation. For example, a tertiary amine functional group can be quaternized by reaction with a salt of formula R'X. In the formula, R ′ is a short-chain alkyl, preferably C ₁ -C ₇ alkyl, more preferably C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl, and X forms a water-soluble salt with quaternary ammonium. It is an anion.

Suitable cationic amino monomers and quaternary ammonium monomers include
For example, vinyl substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium salt, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salt. Compounds and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having a cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing ring, such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quaternary pyrrolidone, such as alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts and the like. The alkyl portion of these monomers is preferably lower alkyl, such as C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl, more preferably C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl. Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers used in the present invention include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide,
And dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide, where the alkyl group is preferably a C ₁ -C ₇ hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl.

The cationic polymer here may comprise a mixture of monomer units derived from amine and / or quaternary ammonium substituted monomers, and / or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example, LUVIQUAT (eg LUVIQUAT) from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the trade name LUVIQUAT. ) 1-Vinyl-, such as those sold as FC 370)
Copolymer of 2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (eg, chloride salt) (the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association), or "CTFA" In the industry by Polyquaternium 1
6); sold under the trade name GAFQUAT (eg, GAFQUAT 755N) by Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA). , 1-vinyl-
A copolymer of 2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate (referred to in the industry by CTFA as Polyquaternium 11); for example, in the industry (CTFA), each polyquaternium
and polyquaternium 7 and cationic cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers, such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride; and US Pat. Mineral acid salts of aminoalkyl esters of homopolymers and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as those described in US Pat. No. 4,009,256.

Other cationic polymers that can be used include polysaccharide polymers such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Examples of the cationic polysaccharide polymer substance preferably used in the present invention include those of the following formulas.

[0028]

[Chemical 2]

Wherein A is an anhydroglucose residue, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residue, R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, or a combination thereof, R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are each independently an alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl group, each group having 18 or less carbon atoms, Total carbon number (ie R ₁ ,
The total carbon number of R ₂ and R ₃ ) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion as described above.

Cationic cellulose is commercially available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) as a polymer, polymer JR®.
And in the Polymer LR® series sold as a salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide,
This is referred to as Polyquaternium 10 in the industry (CTFA). Another type of cationic cellulose is the polymerizable quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a lauryl dimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, which is referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. Has been. These substances are
erchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the trade name Polymer LM200 (registered trademark).
Other cationic polymers that can be used include guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Jaguar from Celanese Corp.).
(Sold in the R series) and other cationic guar gum derivatives. Other materials include quaternary nitrogen containing cellulose ethers (such as those described in US Pat. No. 3,962,418, incorporated herein by reference), and etherified cellulose and Starch copolymers, such as those described in US Pat. No. 3,958,581, incorporated herein by reference.

As mentioned above, the cationic polymer in the present invention is water-soluble. However, this does not mean that it must be soluble in the composition. However, preferably the cationic polymer is soluble in the composition or is present in the complex coacervate phase in the composition formed by the cationic polymer and the anionic material. The complex coacervates of cationic polymers can be formed by anionic surfactants or anionic polymers (eg sodium polystyrene sulfonate) that can optionally be added to the compositions in the present invention.

Silicone Conditioning Agents The conditioning compositions of the method of the present invention also include soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents. Soluble means that the silicone conditioning agent is miscible with the aqueous carrier of the composition so as to form part of the same phase. Insoluble means that the silicone forms a discrete phase separate from the aqueous carrier, such as in the form of emulsions or suspensions of silicone droplets.

The silicone hair conditioning agent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 0.0
5% to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1% to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, most preferably about 0.5% to about 3%. weight%
Used to a degree.

Soluble silicones include silicone copolyols such as dimethicone copolyol, for example, polypropylene oxide, polyoxyethylene, poly (ethylene oxide) and poly (propylene oxide), in which the amount of ethylene and / or propylene oxide is sufficient to be soluble in the composition. Polymers modified with polyether siloxanes, such as polydimethyl siloxane modified with ethylene oxide.

However, it is preferably an insoluble silicone. Insoluble silicone hair conditioning agents for use in the present invention preferably have a viscosity at 25 ° C of from about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 centistokes, more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1 ,. 800,000 centistokes, even more preferably about 100,000 to about 1,500,000 centistokes. Viscosity can be measured with a glass capillary viscometer as described in Dow Corning Test Method CTM0004 (July 20, 1970).

Suitable volatile silicones include cyclomethicone. Suitable insoluble, non-volatile silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers and mixtures thereof. Insoluble, non-volatile silicone fluids with other hair conditioning properties may also be used. The term “non-volatile” as used herein means that the boiling point of the silicone is about 260 ° C. or higher, preferably about 275 ° C. or higher, more preferably 300 ° C. or higher.
Such materials have a very low or substantially no vapor pressure under normal conditions. The term “silicone fluid” means a flowable silicone material having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of less than 1,000,000 centistokes. Generally, the viscosity of the fluid is about 5 to 1,000,000 centistokes at 25 ° C, preferably about 10 to about 300,000 centistokes.

Here, the silicone liquid also includes polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes of the following structure:

[0038]

[Chemical 3]

Where R is alkyl or aryl; x is an integer from about 7 to about 8000. "A" represents a group that blocks the end of the silicone chain. Alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R) or at the terminal (A) of the siloxane chain allow the resulting silicones to remain liquid at room temperature, hydrophobic, and when applied to hair. Not only is it non-irritating, non-toxic, it is harmless, it is compatible with the other components of the composition, it is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions, and it can be deposited on the hair to condition it. It may have any structure as much as possible.

Suitable A groups include methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and aryloxy. The two R groups on the silicon atom may represent the same or different groups. Preferably, the two R groups represent the same group. Suitable R groups are methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl groups. Preferred silicones are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane is particularly preferred.

Non-volatile polyalkylsiloxane liquids that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxane. These siloxanes are commercially available from, for example, the General Electric Company, Viscasil® and SF.
The 96 series is available as Dow Corning 200 series from Dow Corning.

Examples of the polyalkylaryl siloxane liquid that can be used include polymethylphenyl siloxane. These siloxanes are commercially available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF1075 methylphenyl solution or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.

Particularly preferred for enhancing the gloss properties of the hair are highly allylated silicones, such as highly phenylated polyethyl silicones, having a refractive index of about 1.46 or greater, especially about 1.52 or greater. When using these high-refractive-index silicones, the silicone should be mixed with a spreading agent such as the following surfactant or silicone resin to reduce the surface tension and enhance the film forming ability of the substance. .

Polyethylene siloxane copolymers that can be used include, but are not limited to, ethylene oxide, or a mixture of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, such as polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane (eg, DC from Dow Corning). -1248). The amounts of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide should be low enough so as not to interfere with the solubility in the compositions of the present invention.

References disclosing suitable silicone fluids include Geen, US Pat. No. 2,826,551; Drakoff, June 22, 1976.
Issued to U.S. Pat. No. 3,964,500; Pader U.S. Pat. No. 4,364,837; Woolston U.K. Patent No. 849.
, 433. All these patents are incorporated herein by reference. Silicon Compounds, published in 1984 by Petrarch Systems, Inc., are also incorporated herein for reference. This reference provides an extensive (non-limiting) list of suitable silicone fluids.

Another particularly useful silicone hair conditioning material for silicone conditioning agents is insoluble silicone rubber. As used herein, the term "silicone rubber" means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25 ° C of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes. Silicone rubber is available in Petrarch and Spitze on May 1, 1979.
No. 4,152,416 issued to r) et al., Nor Walter Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York. : Academic Press, 1968, etc. General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Datasheet (Silicone Rubbe
r Product Data Sheets) SE30, SE33, SE54 and SE76 also describe silicone rubber. All references cited in this description are incorporated herein by reference. "Silicone rubber" typically has a mass molecular weight of greater than or equal to about 200,000 and is generally between about 200,000 and about 1,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly (dimethylsiloxane) (diphenylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone hair conditioning agent is from about 10 to about 1 polydimethylsiloxane rubber having a viscosity of about 1,000,000 centistokes or greater.
It comprises a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane liquids having a viscosity of 0,000 centistokes, in which case the rubber to liquid ratio is from about 30:70 to about 70:30, preferably from about 40:60 to about 60:40. ..

One of the optional ingredients that can be included in the silicone conditioning agent is a silicone resin. Silicone resins are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane systems. Crosslinking is introduced by incorporating trifunctional and tetrafunctional silanes with monofunctional and / or difunctional silanes during the manufacture of the silicone resin. As is well known to those skilled in the art, the degree of cross-linking required to obtain a silicone resin will vary with the particular silane units incorporated into the silicone resin. Generally, silicone materials with a sufficient level of tri- and tetra-functional units of siloxane monomers (and thus a sufficient level of cross-linking) will dry and stiffen or harden, so that the film is made of silicone resin. It is believed that there is. The ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms indicates the degree of crosslinking in certain silicone materials. Generally, silicone materials having at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom are silicone resins herein. Preferably, the oxygen: silicon atom ratio is at least about 1.2: 1.0. The silane used in the production of silicone resin, along with the most commonly used methyl-substituted silane, monomethyl, dimethyl, trimethyl, monophenyl, diphenyl, methylphenyl, monovinyl, and methylvinylchlorosilane, And tetrachlorosilane. Preferred resins are provided by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267. Commercially available silicone resins are supplied in dissolved form in low viscosity volatile or non-volatile silicone fluids. The silicone resin used herein should be provided and incorporated into the composition in such a dissolved state as is well known to those skilled in the art.

Silicone resins can increase the deposition of silicone on the hair and enhance the gloss of hair with a high refractive index volume. Silicone background materials include silicone fluids, rubbers, and resins, as well as John Wiley
Encyclopedia of Polymer Scie, published in 1989 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
nce and Engineering, Vol. 15, 2nd edition, pp. 204-308, incorporated herein by reference.

Particularly for silicone materials and silicone resins, the person skilled in the art can refer to “MDTQ
Can be reasonably identified according to an abbreviated nomenclature system known as nomenclature. In this nomenclature system, silicones are described according to the presence of the various siloxane monomer units that make them up. In general, the symbol M represents a monofunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO _0.5 ; D represents a difunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO; T represents a trifunctional unit (CH ₃ ) SiO _1.5 . Shown: Q is a tetrafunctional unit S
Indicates iO ₂ . For example, the prime codes of the units shown as M ', D', T'and Q'represent substituents other than methyl and must be specifically expressed at each occurrence. Typical alternative substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amine, hydroxyl and the like. The molar ratios of the various units are given in the MDTQ nomenclature system by either the total number (or the average) of the various units in the silicone, either as a subscripted number in the symbol or as a specific ratio with the molecular weight. Complete description of silicone material based. Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T'and / or Q'to D, D ', M and / or M'in the silicone resin indicate a higher level of crosslinking. However, as mentioned above, the overall degree of crosslinking can also be indicated by the ratio of oxygen to silicon.

Preferred silicone resins useful herein are MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ and MDT.
Q resin. Therefore, the preferred silicone substituent is methyl. M: Q
The ratio is about 0.5: 1.0 to about 1.5: 1.0, and the average molecular weight of the resin is about 1000 to
An MQ resin of about 10,000 is especially preferred.

Wetting Step The second essential step of the method of the present invention is the wetting step which is carried out after the pretreatment step. This step involves exposing wet or dry pretreated hair to, for example, rinsing, wetting during swimming, or pretreatment of hair with a shampoo composition containing a surfactant. Can be included. Any shampoo suitable for cleaning hair can be used in the present invention.
Surfactants suitable for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention generally have a lipophilic chain of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms and are anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, dipolar. It can be selected from surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Anionic Surfactants Suitable anionic surfactants for inclusion in the compositions useful in the method of the present invention include alkyl sulphates, ethoxylated alkyl sulphates, alkyl glyceryl ether sulphonates, methyl acyl taurates. , Fatty acyl glycinates, N-acyl glutamate, acyl isethionates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ethoxy sulfosuccinates, alpha-sulfonated fatty acids, their salts and / or their esters, alkyl ethoxycarboxylates, Alkyl phosphates, ethoxylated alkyl phosphates, alkyl sulphates, acyl sarcosinates and fatty acid / protein condensates, and mixtures thereof. The alkyl and / or acyl chain length of these surfactants is C _{12 to} C ₂₂ , preferably C _{12 to} C ₂₂ , and more preferably C _{12 to} C ₁₄ .

Nonionic Surfactants The compositions useful in the method of the present invention may also include a water soluble nonionic surfactant. The surfactants of this class, fatty acid mono- C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ - and diethanolamides, polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants include having a sucrose polyester surfactants and the following general formula.

[0055]

[Chemical 4]

Preferred N-alkyl, N-alkoxy or N-aryloxy, polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants according to the above formula are those wherein R ₈ is a C _{5 to} C ₃₁ hydrocarbon group, preferably C _{6 to} C ₁₉ hydrocarbon groups, including straight chain and branched chain alkyl and alkenyl groups, or mixtures thereof, R ₉ is typically hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group, preferably methyl. group or a group of the formula -R ¹ -O-R ^2, wherein R ¹ is a hydrocarbon group of C ₂ -C _8, include straight chain, branched and cyclic (aryl group) , Preferably a C ₂ -C ₄ alkylene group, and R ² is C ₁ -C _4.
C ₈ straight-chain, branched-chain and cyclic hydrocarbon groups, including aryl and oxyhydrocarbon groups, preferably C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, especially methyl or phenyl surfactants. . Z ₂ is a polyhydroxy hydrocarbon group having a linear hydrocarbon chain and has at least two hydroxyl groups (in the case of glyceraldehyde) or at least three hydroxyl groups (in the case of other reducing sugars) in its chain. Or an alkoxylated derivative thereof (preferably an ethoxylated derivative or a propoxylated derivative). Z ₂ is preferably derived from a reducing sugar in a reductive amination reaction, and most preferably Z ₂ is a glycityl group. Suitable reducing sugars include glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose, and xylose, as well as glyceraldehyde. As with the individual sugars described above, high-grade glucose corn syrup, high-grade fructose corn syrup, and high-grade maltose corn syrup can be used as raw materials. These corn syrups can cause Z ₂ to be a mixture of sugar components. It should be understood that the exclusion of other suitable raw materials is in no way intended. Z ₂ is preferably —CH ₂ — (CHOH) _n —CH ₂ OH or —CH (CH ₂ OH.
_{) - (CHOH) n-1} -CH 2 H, CH 2 (CHOH) 2 (CHOR ') CHOH)
It is selected from the group consisting of -CH ₂ OH. Here, n is an integer of 1 to 5 and R '
Are H or cyclic monosaccharides or polysaccharides, and their alkoxylated derivatives. As described above, most preferred are glycityls wherein n is 4, particularly preferably -CH ₂ - is (CHOH) ₄ -CH ₂ OH.

[0057]   The most preferred polyhydroxy fatty acid amide has the formula R₈(CO) N (CH₃) CH ₂ (CHOH)_FourCH₂Has OH, where R₈Is C₆~ C₁₉Straight-chain alkyl or
It is a lukenyl group. In the compound of the above formula, R₈-CO-N <is, for example, cocoa
Mid, stearamide, oleamide, lauroamide, myristamide, capricami
It may be a amide, palmamide, tallowamide, or the like.

Nonionic surfactants derived from oil suitable for use in the present invention include triglycerides having a polyethylene glycol chain inserted therein; water-soluble nonionic surfactants such as ethoxylated mono and diglycerides, polyethoxylated lanolin and ethoxylated butter derivatives. Emollients of plant and animal origin are included. One of the preferred classes of oil-derived nonionic surfactants for use in the present invention has the general formula:

[0059]

[Chemical 5]

Wherein n is about 5 to about 200, preferably about 20 to about 100, more preferably about 30 to about 85, and R averages about 5 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably about 7 ~ 1
Includes aliphatic groups having 8 carbon atoms.

Suitable ethoxylated oils and fats in this class include glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl caproate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl tallowate, glyceryl palmate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl ricinoleate. Examples thereof include polyethylene glycol derivatives of ates, and glyceryl aliphatic esters derived from triglycerides such as palm oil, tonsil oil, and corn oil, with glyceryl tallowate and glyceryl cocoate being preferred.

Preferred for use in the present invention is a polyethylene glycol-based polyethoxylated C ₉ -C ₁₅ aliphatic alcohol nonion containing an average of about 5 to about 50 ethyleneoxy groups per mole of surfactant. It is a surfactant. Preferably used in the present invention, aliphatic alcohols suitable polyethylene glycol based polyethoxylated C ₉ -C _15, Palace -3 _{C 9 ~C 11, C 9 ~C} 1 1 Palace -4, C ₉ Palace -5 -C _11, Palace -6 C ₉ -C _11, Palace -7 C ₉ -C _11, Palace -8 _{C 9 ~C 11, C 11 ~C} 15 Palace -3, C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ Palace -4, C ₁₁ -C Palace -5 _15, Palace -6 C ₁₁ -C _15, Palace -7 _{C 11 ~C 15, C 11 ~C} 15 Palace -8, C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ Palace -9, C ₁₁ -C Palace -10 _15, Palace -11 _{C 11 ~C 15, C 11 ~C} 15 Palace -12, C ₁₁ ~
Palace -14 Palace -13 and C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ in C ₁₅ and the like. PEG40 hydrogenated castor oil is BAS under the trade name Cremophor®.
Commercially available from F. PEG7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG20 glyceryl laurate are commercially available from Henkel under the trade names Cetiol (R) HE and Lamacit (R) GML20, respectively. Palace of C ₉ -C ₁₁ -8 are commercially available from Shell Corporation (Shell Ltd) under the trade name Dobanol (Dobanol) (R) 91-8. Particularly preferred for use in the present invention is under the trade name Cremaphor A25.
It is a polyethylene glycol ether of ceteryl alcohol such as Ceteareth 25 commercially available from BASF.

Also suitable for use in the present invention is the shea butter tree (Butyrospermum).
Karkii Kotschy) is a nonionic surfactant derived from a vegetable fat hybrid and its derivative extracted from the fruit of Karkii Kotschy). Similarly, ethoxylated derivatives of mango, cocoa and illipe butter may be used in the compositions according to the invention. Although these are classified as ethoxylated nonionic surfactants, it is understood that some may remain as non-ethoxylated vegetable oils or fats.

Other suitable oil-derived nonionic surfactants include tonsil oil, peanut oil, bran oil, malt oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, apricot seed oil, walnut, coconut,
Pistachio nut, sesame, rapeseed, juniper oil, corn oil, peach seed oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grape And the ethoxylated derivatives of sunflower oil.

Amphoteric Surfactants Suitable amphoteric surfactants for use in the compositions useful in the method of the present invention include: (a) an imidazolinium surfactant of formula (VII)

[0066]

[Chemical 6]

Wherein R ₁ is C ₇ -C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl and R ₂ is hydrogen or C
H ₂ Z is each independently CO ₂ M or CH ₂ CO ₂ M, M is hydrogen, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanol ammonium; and / or an ammonium derivative of formula (VIII) Is.

[0068]

[Chemical 7]

Wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and Z are as defined above; (b) aminoalkanoates of formula (IX) R ₁ NH (CH ₂ ) _n CO ₂ M of formula (X) Iminodiaalkanoates R ₁ N [(CH ₂ ) _m CO ₂ M] ₂ and iminopolyalkanoates of formula (XI)

[0070]

[Chemical 8]

Wherein n, m, p and q are numbers from 1 to 4 and R ₁ and M are independently selected from the groups specified above; and (c) mixtures thereof. Is mentioned.

Suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (a) are commercially available under the trade names Miranol and Empigen and are understood to comprise complex mixtures of molecular species. Milanol has an acyclic structure (VIII) shown in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd edition, while in the 4th edition, there is yet another structural isomer in which R ₂ is an O-bond rather than an N-bond. Although shown, it is traditionally described as having the general formula (VII). In practice, it may exist as a complex mixture of cyclic and acyclic species, and for the sake of completeness both definitions are adopted here. However,
Preferred for use in the present invention are acyclic species.

Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (a) are those of the formula XII in which R ₁ is a C ₈ H ₁₇ (particularly isocapril), C ₉ H ₁₉ and C ₁₁ H ₂₃ alkyl group. And / or X
III compounds. Especially preferred are compounds wherein R ₁ is C ₉ H ₁₉ , Z is CO ₂ M and R ₂ is H; R ₁ is C ₁₁ H ₂₃ and Z is CO ₂ M.
And R ₂ is CH ₂ CO ₂ M; and R ₁ is C ₁₁ H ₂₃ , Z is CO ₂ M, and R ₂ is H.

In the CTFA nomenclature, suitable substances for use in the present invention include cocoamphocarboxypropionate, cocoamphocarboxypropionate, and especially cocoamphoacetate and cocoamphodiacetate (also referred to as cocoamphocarboxyglycinate). Is mentioned. Specific products include the product name Amforac (Am
pholak) 7TX (sodium carboxymethyl tallow polypropylamine), Empigen CDL60 and CDR60 (Albright End Wilson (A
lbright & Wilson)), Milanol H2M Conc. , Milan (Mir
anol) C2M Conc. N. P. , Milanol C2M Conc. O. P
． , Miranol C2M SF, Miranol CM Special (Rhone-Poulenc); Alkateric 2CIB (Alkaril Chemicals); Amphoterge
) W-2 (Lonza, Inc.); Monateric CDX-38,
Monateric CSH-32 (Mona Industries); Lewoteric (R
ewoteric) AM-2C (Rewo Chemical Group);
And Schercotic MS-2 (Scher Chems
icals)). Further examples of amphoteric surfactants suitable for use in the present invention are Octoxynol®, polyoxethylene (1) octylphenyl ether.
r); nonoxynol-4 (Nonoxynol) (registered trademark), polyoxyethylene (p
olyoxyethylene) (4) nonylphenyl ether and nonoxynol-9, polyoxyethylene (9)
Examples include nonylphenyl ether.

Numerous commercially available amphoteric surfactants of this type are, for example, hydroxide counterionic or anionic sulphate or sulphonate surfactants, in particular C ₈ -C ₁₈ alcohols, C ₈ -C ₁₈ alcohols. electrically produced in the form of a composite of neutral and like acylglycerides type sulfates of ethoxylated alcohols or C ₈ -C _18, it is understood that sold. The concentration and weight ratio of the amphoteric surfactant is defined in the present invention as a form that is not a composite of surfactants, and as a part of the total content of anionic surfactant components relative to all anionic surfactants. It should also be noted that it is based on ions.

Preferred examples of the (b) type amphoteric surfactant include N-alkyl polytrimethylene poly-, and Berol Nobe.
l) under the trade name Ampholak X07 and Ampholak
) 7CX sold as carboxymethylamines
And salts, especially the triethanolammonium salt and the salts of N-laurylbetaaminopropionic acid and N-lauryl-imino-dipropionic acid. Such substances are commercially available from Henkel under the trade names DERIPHAT and Rhone Poulin (Rh
It is sold as Mirataine by one-Poulen).

Zwitterionic Surfactants Suitable water-soluble auxiliary zwitterionic surfactants for inclusion in the compositions useful in the method of the present invention include those of the formula R ₅ R ₆ R ₇ N ⁺ (CH ₂ ) _{Included are n} CO ₂ M alkylbetaines and amidobetaines of formula (XII) below:

[0078]

[Chemical 9]

In the formula, R ₅ is a C ₁₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl group or an alkenyl group, and R ₆ and R ₇
Are independently C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl groups, M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanol ammonium, and n and m are each a number from 1 to 4. Preferred betaines include cocoamidopropyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, laurylamido propyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine and Tego betaine®. Suitable water-soluble auxiliary sultaine surfactants for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention include the following alkyl sultaines of formula (XIII):

[0080]

[Chemical 10]

In the formula, R ₅ is a C ₁₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl group or an alkenyl group, and R ₆ and R ₇
Are independently C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl groups, M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanol ammonium, and n and m are each a number from 1 to 4. Examples of preferable sultaines include cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine.

Suitable water-soluble auxiliary amine oxide surfactants for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention include alkyl amine oxides R ₅ R ₆ R ₇ NO and the following formula (XIV)
Amidoamine oxides of:

[0083]

[Chemical 11]

In the formula, R ₅ is a C ₁₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl group or an alkenyl group, and R ₆ and R ₇
Are independently C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl groups, M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanol ammonium, and m is a number from 1 to 4. Preferred amine oxides include cocoamidopropylamine oxide, lauryldimethylamine oxide and myristyldimethylamine oxide.

Optional Steps The method of the present invention may further include one or more optional steps performed after the wetting step. These additional steps include treating the hair with a conditioning composition, treating the hair with a conditioning composition that further comprises a UV filter agent, and / or treating the hair with a composition that includes a UV filter agent. The process is mentioned.

Any UV filter agent suitable for topical application is useful in the conditioning, shampoo or UV filter composition of the present invention. A wide range of UV filter agents have been issued to Haffey et al. On Feb. 11, 1992, US Pat. No. 5,087,445; issued to Turner et al. On Dec. 17, 1991. U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,372; U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,371 issued to Turner et al. On Dec. 17, 1991; and Cosmetic Science by Segarin et al. VIII of Cosmetics Science and Technology
Chapters, page 189 et seq. Preferred among these UV filter agents useful in the compositions of the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p.
-Aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, persol (
Parsol MCX, Eusolex 6300, Octocryne
lene), Parsol 1789 and mixtures thereof.

Still other useful UV filter agents are US Pat. No. 4,937,370 issued June 26, 1990 to Sabatelli; and 19
It was disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,999,186 issued to Sabatelli et al. On March 12, 1991. The UV filter agents disclosed therein have two distinct chromophore moieties exhibiting different UV absorption spectra in one molecule. One of the chromophore components absorbs primarily in the UVB radiation range and the other strongly absorbs in the UVA radiation range. These UV filters are more efficient, have wider UV absorption, less skin penetration and longer efficacy than conventional UV filters. Particularly preferred examples of these ultraviolet filter agents are 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone and 4-N, N- (4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane). 2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester, 2-
4-N, N- (2 of hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone
-Ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof.

Other Ingredients The compositions useful in the methods of the present invention are suitable for rendering such compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or for imparting additional dosage effects thereto, Various other optional ingredients can be included. Such conventional optional ingredients are well known to those skilled in the art.

A wide range of additional ingredients can be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention. These ingredients include other conditioning agents; hair-holding polymers; additional thickeners and suspending agents such as xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, starch and starch derivatives; long-chain agents such as coco monoethanolamide. Viscosity modifiers such as methanol amides of chain fatty acids; Crystalline suspending agents, pearlescent aids such as ethylene glycol distearate; Preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; Polyvinyl alcohol; Ethyl alcohol; PH adjusting agents such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, etc .; generally salts such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; all FD &
Coloring agents such as C or D & C dyes; hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents such as hydrogen peroxide, perborate and persulfate; hair reducing agents such as thioglycolate; fragrances; metals such as disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate Ion sequestrants; and polymer plasticizers such as glycerin, diisobutyl adipate, butyl stearate, and propylene glycol; antioxidants such as tocopheryl acetate and butyl hydroxytoluene.

Liquid polyol carboxylic acid esters are also suitably used as a conditioning agent in the present invention. These polyol esters are derived from polyols having one or more carboxylic acids. In other words, these esters contain a polyol-derived moiety and one or more moieties derived from a carboxylic acid. Since the terms carboxylic acid and fatty acid are often used interchangeably by those skilled in the art, these carboxylic acid esters are sometimes described as liquid polyol fatty acid esters. As used herein, the term liquid is used under normal conditions (pressure about 1
Under atmospheric pressure, 25 ° C., it means a fluid that is visually (visually) fluid.

Liquid polyol polyesters suitable for use in the present invention include certain polyols esterified with at least two fatty acid groups, especially sugars, sugar alcohols or sugar ethers. However, the polyol starting material is
It preferably has at least about 4 esterifiable hydroxyl groups. Examples of preferred polyols are saccharides such as monosaccharides and disaccharides, sugar alcohols or sugar ethers. Examples of monosaccharides containing four hydroxyl groups are xylose and arabinose, and xylose-derived sugar alcohols having five hydroxyl groups, that is, xylitol. Erythrose, which is a monosaccharide, such as sugar alcohol derived from erythrose, that is, erythritol containing four hydroxyl groups, also has three hydroxyl groups, and is therefore suitable in the practice of the present invention. Suitable monosaccharides containing 5 hydroxyl groups are galactose, fructose and sorbose. As well as glucose and sorbose, sugar alcohols containing 6 hydroxyl groups, derived from sucrose hydrolysis products, such as sorbitol, are also suitable. Examples of disaccharide polyols that can be used include maltose, lactose, and sucrose, all of which contain eight hydroxyl groups. In addition, sugar ethers such as sorbitan are also suitable for practicing the present invention.

The polyols used in such liquid polyol esters preferably have about 4 to about 12 hydroxyl groups, more preferably about 4 to about 11 hydroxyl groups, and most preferably about 4 to about 8 hydroxyl groups. Preferred polyols for producing the polyesters preferably used in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose and sucrose. Sucrose is particularly preferred.

Preferred polyol starting materials having at least 4 hydroxyl groups must be esterified with a fatty acid in which at least 2 hydroxyl groups contain from about 8 to about 22, preferably from about 8 to about 14 carbon atoms. I have to. Examples of fatty acids include caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, linoleic acid,
Examples include linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, behenic acid, and erucic acid. Fatty acids can be derived from natural or synthetic fatty acids and can be saturated or unsaturated, including regioisomers and geometric isomers. However, in order to provide liquid polyesters of the type preferably used in the present invention, at least about half of the fatty acids incorporated into the polyester molecule are unsaturated fatty acids, saturated short chain fatty acids, or mixtures thereof. There must be.

The liquid polyol fatty acid polyesters preferably used in the present invention as a conditioning agent must contain at least two fatty acid ester groups. It is not necessary that all the hydroxyl groups of the polyol be esterified with fatty acids, but it is preferred that the polyester contains only two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Most preferably, the hydroxyl groups of substantially all of the polyols are esterified with fatty acids, ie the polyol moieties are substantially fully esterified. The fatty acids that esterify the polyol molecules may be the same or a mixture,
As noted above, a substantial amount of unsaturated acid ester groups and / or
Or, saturated short chain acid ester groups must be present.

To explain the above points, sucrose difatty acid esters are preferred, but may not be preferred because they have more than two non-esterified hydroxyl groups. Sucrose hexafatty acid ester appears to be preferred because it has no more than two non-esterified hydroxyl groups. Highly preferred compounds in which all hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids include liquid sucrose octasubstituted fatty acid esters.

The following are non-limiting examples of specific polyol fatty acid polyesters containing at least two fatty acid ester groups that are suitable for use in the present invention: glucose dioleate, soybean oil. Or glucose diester of cottonseed oil fatty acid (unsaturated), mannose diester of mixed soybean oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid, galactose diester of oleic acid, arabinose diester of linoleic acid, xylose dilinoleate, sorbitol dioleate, sucrose dioleate. , Glucose trioleate, soybean oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid (unsaturated) glucose triesters, mixed soybean oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid mannose triesters, oleic acid galactose triesters, linoleic acid arabinose Reesters, xylose trilinoleate, sorbitol trioleate, sucrose trioleate, glucose tetraoleate, soybean oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid (unsaturated) glucose tetraesters, mixed soybean oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid mannose tetraesters, oleic acid Galactose tetraesters, linoleic acid arabinose tetraesters, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, unsaturated soybean oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid sorbitol hexaesters, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate Ate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatreate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof.

The preferred liquid polyol polyesters of the present invention have a complete melting point of about 30 ° C. or less, preferably about 27.5 ° C. or less, more preferably about 25 ° C. or less. The complete melting points reported herein are those measured by a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC). The term "complete melting point" as used herein means the melting point measured by the well-known technique of differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The complete melting point is the temperature at the intersection of the base line, that is, the specific heat line and the tangent line of the falling edge of the endothermic peak. When measuring the complete melting point in the present invention, the scanning temperature is typically 5 ° C.
/ Min. The technique for measuring the complete melting point was set by Letton on April 26, 1994.
), Et al., And is fully described by US Pat. No. 5,306,514.

Examples of liquid polyol carboxylic acid esters suitable for use in the present invention include sucrose polysoybean fatty acid ester or sucrose polycotton fatty acid ester sold by Procter and Gamble. .

The polyol fatty acid polyesters preferably used in the present invention can be produced by various methods well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include: transesterification of polyols with methyl, ethyl or glycerol fatty acid esters using various catalysts; acylation of polyols with fatty acid chlorides; acylation of polyols with fatty acid anhydrides; and fatty acids. Acylation of the polyol by itself. U.S. Pat. No. 3,463,699 issued to Rizzi on June 15, 1976; and Volpenhain (Volp, 1985).
U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,517,360 and 4,518 issued to Enhein)
See 772.

Shampoo, conditioning and UV filter compositions according to the invention may be in the form of emulsions, creams, gels or foams.

[0101] Examples Example 1 1. As part of the daily cleansing action, the pigmented hair is pretreated with the currently marketed Pantene® conditioner. 2. The pretreated hair is then washed with the currently marketed Pantene® shampoo and rinsed with water.

Example 2 1. As part of the daily cleansing action, the colored hair is pretreated with the conditioning composition of the following formulation (A).

Ingredients (wt%) oleyl alcohol 1.00 PEG-7M ¹ 2.00 polydimethylsiloxane ² 4.20 silicone resin ³ 0.25 pentaphenyltrimethyltrisiloxane ⁴ 0.38 DL panthenol. 04 Panteninyl ethyl ether 0.34 Perfume 0.30 Kathon (registered trademark) CG ⁵ 0.03 Cetyl alcohol 1.20 Stearyl alcohol 0.80 Ditallowdimethylammonium chloride 0.75 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 1. 00 Glycerol monostearate 0.25 Citric acid 0.19 Water Total 100

¹ PEG-7M is a polyethylene glycol having an average n of about 7,000 and is manufactured by Union Carbide under the trade name Polyox.
x) Sold under the WSR® N-750. ² 85% / 15% by weight mixture of D5 cyclomethicone and dimethicone gum (weight average molecular weight about 400,000 to about 600,000). ³ Polytrimethylhydrosilyl silicate, added as a 50 wt% solution in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, General Electric Silicone Products, SS4320. ⁴ Dow Corning 705, Dow Corning
g Corp.). (Midland, Michigan, USA). ⁵ Methylchloroisothiazoline (and) Methylisothiazoline, a preservative of Rohm & Haas Co. (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA).

2. The pretreated hair is then washed with the currently marketed Pantene® Ultra Mild Shampoo and rinsed with water.

Example 3 After coloring the hair, it is pretreated with the currently marketed Pantene® conditioner and rinsed with water.

Example 4 1. The colored hair is pretreated with the currently marketed Pantene® conditioner. 2. The pretreated hair is exposed to water by swimming.

Example 5 1. As part of daily cleansing practices, colored hair is now available in oils on the market.
Oil of Ulay® Active Hydrogel
Pretreatment with drogel). 2. The pretreated hair is then washed with the currently marketed Pantene® shampoo and rinsed with water.

Example 6 1. The colored hair is then pretreated with the currently marketed Pantene (R) conditioner as part of a daily cleansing action. 2. The pretreated hair is then washed with the currently marketed Pantene® shampoo and rinsed with water. 3. The washed hair is then conditioned with a Pantene® conditioner currently on the market.

Example 7 1. As part of the daily cleansing action, the colored hair is pretreated with the conditioning composition of formula (A). 2. The pretreated hair is then washed with the currently marketed Pantene® Ultra Mild Shampoo and rinsed with water. 3. The washed hair is then conditioned with the conditioning composition of Formula (A).

Example 8 1. As part of daily cleansing practices, colored hair is now available in oils on the market.
Oil of Ulay® Active Hydrogel
Pretreatment with drogel). 2. The pretreated hair is then washed with the currently marketed Pantene® shampoo and rinsed with water. 3. The washed hair is then conditioned with a conditioning composition having the composition described below.

Ingredients (wt%) Oleyl alcohol 0.25 PEG-7M ¹ 1.00 Polydimethylsiloxane ² 4.20 Silicone resin ³ 0.25 Pentaphenyltrimethyltrisiloxane ⁴ 0.38 DL Panthenol 0.10. 04 Panthenyl ethyl ether 0.34 Perfume 0.35 Kathon® CG ⁵ 0.03 Cetyl alcohol 1.80 Stearyl alcohol 1.20 Ditallowdimethylammonium chloride 0.75 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 1. 00 Glycerol monostearate 0.25 Citric acid 0.22 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.25 Water 100 as total

¹ PEG-7M is a polyethylene glycol having an average n of about 7,000 and is manufactured by Union Carbide under the trade name Polyox.
x) Sold under the WSR® N-750. ² 85% / 15% by weight mixture of D5 cyclomethicone and dimethicone gum (weight average molecular weight about 400,000 to about 600,000). ³ Polytrimethylhydrosilyl silicate, added as a 50 wt% solution in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, General Electric Silicone Products, SS4320. ⁴ Dow Corning 705, Dow Corning Corp. (Midland, Michigan, USA). ⁵ Methylchloroisothiazoline (and) Methylisothiazoline, a preservative of Rohm & Haas Co. (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA).

Example 9 1. As part of the daily cleansing action, the pigmented hair is pretreated with the currently marketed Pantene® conditioner. 2. The pretreated hair is then washed with the currently marketed Pantene® shampoo and rinsed with water. 3. The washed hair is then conditioned with the currently marketed Pantene (R) conditioner and rinsed with water. 4. Next, the hair is treated with an ultraviolet filter composition having the following composition.

Ingredients (% by weight) Methoxycinnamic acid octyl ester 6.00% Glycerin 6.00% Zinc oxide 3.00% Isohexadecane 2.00% Isopropyl palmitate 2.00% Polyacrylamide and C13-14 isoparaffin and Laureth-4 (Sepigel 305) 1.55% Steareth-21 0.90% Cetyl alcohol 0.79% Stearyl alcohol 0.79% Behenyl alcohol 0.83% Dimethicone and dimethiconol (DC- 2 1068 blend) 0.75% SEFA cottonate 0.50% tocopheryl acetate 0.20% DMDM hydantoin and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (Glydant Plus) 0.20% fragrance MOD S / PCV 1745/7 0. Two % EDTA disodium 0.10% Steareth (Steareth) and -2 0.10% DEA-oleth (Oleth) -3 100% in total phosphate 0.06% water

Example 10 1. As part of a daily cleansing action, colored hair is pretreated with a conditioning composition of the formula:

Ingredients (wt%) Oleyl alcohol 1.00 PEG-14M ¹ 0.25 Polydimethylsiloxane ² 4.20 Silicone resin ³ 0.25 Pentaphenyltrimethyltrisiloxane ⁴ 0.38 DL Panthenol. 04 Panteninyl ethyl ether 0.34 Perfume 0.35 Kathon (registered trademark) CG ⁵ 0.03 Cetyl alcohol 1.80 Stearyl alcohol 1.20 Ditallowdimethylammonium chloride 0.75 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 1. 00 Glycerol monostearate 0.25 Citric acid 0.22 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.25 Water 100 as total

¹ PEG-14M is a polyethylene glycol having an average n of about 14,000, and is manufactured by Union Carbide under the trade name Polyox (P
Olyox) WSR (registered trademark) N-3000. ² 85% / 15% by weight mixture of D5 cyclomethicone and dimethicone gum (weight average molecular weight about 400,000 to about 600,000). ³ Polytrimethylhydrosilyl silicate, added as a 50 wt% solution in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, General Electric Silicone Products, SS4320. ⁴ Dow Corning 705, Dow Corning
g Corp.). (Midland, Michigan, USA). ⁵ Methylchloroisothiazoline (and) Methylisothiazoline, a preservative of Rohm & Haas Co. (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA).

2. The pretreated hair is then washed with the currently marketed Pantene® shampoo and rinsed with water. 3. The washed hair is then conditioned with the currently marketed Pantene (R) conditioner and rinsed with water. 4. The hair is then treated with the currently marketed Pantene® Serum Spray.

Examples of other compositions containing UV filter agents useful in the present invention are listed. Conditioning Spray Water QS100 Polyquatermium 37, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, PPG-1 trideceth-6 1.000 PVP / VA Copolymer 0.500 DL-Panthenol (10%), Panthenyl ethyl ether (90%) 0.300 Dimethicone and dimethiconal 0.500 PEG-4 0.450 DMDM hydantoin 0.204 Perfume 0.110 Polysorbate 80 0.063 EDTA disodium 0.140 Methoxycinnamic acid octyl ester 0 .010 Silk amino acids 0.003 PEG-5M 0.010 Benzophenone-4 0.010 Tocopheryl acetate 0.030

Shampoo Purified Water QS100 Laureth-3 Ammonium Sulfate 28% 28.402 Cocoamphodiacetate Disodium 38.5% 18.182 Glycol Distearate Melt Premix 2.000 Dimethicone 40/60 0.900 Tricedeceth-7 Carvone Acid 90% 0.560 Polyquaternium-10 0.150 Perfume 0.800 DL Panthenol 0.054 DL Pantyl B 0.066 PEG-78 Glyceryl cocoate 60% 4.667 PEG-30 Gly Cellar cocoate 3.500 Sodium benzoate 0.250 DMDM Hydantoin 55% 0.200 Tetrasodium EDTA 87% 0.100 Sodium chloride PVD 1.041 Anhydrous citric acid 0.650 Tocofe acetate Le 0.03 Benzophenone-4 0.1 octyl methoxycinnamate ester 0.1

Rinse Conditioner Demineralized Water QS100 15/85 Dimethicone / Cyclomethicone Blend 4.2000 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 1.0000 Cetyl Alcohol 0.9600 Quaternium 18 0.7500 Stearyl Alcohol 0.6400 PEG-2M 0 5000 Emulsified wax (Polawax / Lipowax 0.5000 Benzyl alcohol 0.4000 Pantyl B 0.2500 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.2500 Glyceryl monostearate 0.2500 Oleyl alcohol 0.2500 DMDM Hydantoin 0.2000 EDTA 0.1000 Citric anhydride 0.1300 Fragrance 0.3000 Methoxycinnamic acid octyl ester .1000 benzophenone 0.1000 tocopheryl acetate 0.0300

Intensive Conditioner Demineralized Water QS100 15/85 Dimethicone / Cyclomethicone Blend 4.3700 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 2.0000 L-Glutamic Acid 0.6400 Cetyl Alcohol 2.5000 Stearyl Alcohol 4.5000 Benzyl Alcohol 0.4000 Pantyl (Pantyl) B 0.2500 DMDM Hydantoin 0.2000 EDTA 0.1000 Perfume 0.3000 Methoxycinnamic acid octyl ester 0.1000 Benzophenone 0.1000 Tocopheryl acetate 0.0300

Conditioning Spray Demineralized Water qs100 Hexylene Glycol 4.0000 Keratin Amino Acids 1.0000 PVP 0.5000 PEG60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.5000 Dicetyldimonium Chloride 0.3800 DMDM Hydantoin (0.55%) 0.5. 1375 Tetrasodium EDTA (87%) 0.1131 Pantethine 0.1000 Panthenol 0.0100 Silk amino acids 0.1000 Lactic acid (85%) 0.451 Fragrance 0.1000 Tocopherol acetate 0.03 Methoxycinnamic acid octyl ester 1.00 Benzophenone-44 0.05

In all of the above examples, extending the dyeing interval reduced or eliminated the incidence of fading and / or discoloration.

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continued front page    (81) Designated countries EP (AT, BE, CH, CY, DE, DK, ES, FI, FR, GB, GR, IE, I T, LU, MC, NL, PT, SE), OA (BF, BJ , CF, CG, CI, CM, GA, GN, GW, ML, MR, NE, SN, TD, TG), AP (GH, GM, K E, LS, MW, SD, SZ, UG, ZW), EA (AM , AZ, BY, KG, KZ, MD, RU, TJ, TM) , AL, AM, AT, AU, AZ, BA, BB, BG, BR, BY, CA, CH, CN, CU, CZ, DE, D K, EE, ES, FI, GB, GE, GH, GM, HR , HU, ID, IL, IS, JP, KE, KG, KP, KR, KZ, LC, LK, LR, LS, LT, LU, L V, MD, MG, MK, MN, MW, MX, NO, NZ , PL, PT, RO, RU, SD, SE, SG, SI, SK, SL, TJ, TM, TR, TT, UA, UG, U Z, VN, YU, ZW (72) Inventor Castane, Bernard             United Kingdom, Sally, Tidwell 20, 9             NW, iguham, white ho             Le, lane, rasham, park (72) Inventor Diaz, Louis Carlos             United Kingdom, Sally, Katie 13,8 You             Wye, Weybridge, Brooklands,             Lane, Brooklands, Farm, Howe             Su (72) Inventor Lansch, Dieter Hans Joseph             United Kingdom, Sally, Tidwell 10,6             Pel, Richmond, Mount, Arra             Rat, Road 57 (72) Inventor MacGrip, Neil Archibald             British country, Sally, gu5,0bee             X, Bramley, Snowdenham,             Lynx, Road, Bankfield (72) Inventor Monich, Melissa Smith             England, Sally, gu25, 4 pea             H, virginia, water, wood             Lands, Road, East, Woodhill (72) Inventor Sami, Christina Harchalanka             Ouah             United Kingdom, London, Esd 20,             8 cue cue, lower, downs, ro             Code 27 (72) Inventor Hughes, Break Geass             United Kingdom, London, Esd-Walk 9,             9 Rh, Clapham, Haguewai             Street 77 F-term (reference) 4C083 AB102 AB212 AC012 AC061                       AC082 AC102 AC122 AC152                       AC172 AC242 AC302 AC331                       AC342 AC422 AC532 AC642                       AC692 AC862 AC902 AD042                       AD151 AD152 AD162 AD282                       AD662 BB04 BB05 BB06                       BB07 CC33 CC38 CC39 EE28

Claims (9)

[Claims] 1. A cosmetic method for treating mammalian hair to reduce or prevent fading and / or discoloration, comprising: (a) treating hair with a composition comprising a hydrophobic and / or cationic conditioning agent. And (b) wetting the hair thereafter. 2. The hair of step (a) is wet.
Makeup method described in. 3. A cosmetic process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that after step (b) there is an additional step (c) of treating the hair with a composition comprising a conditioning agent. 4. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that after step (b) or (c) it comprises the additional step (d) of treating the hair with a composition comprising a UV filter. Makeup method according to item. 5. A cosmetic method according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition comprising the conditioning agent of step (a) or step (c) is provided as a foam. 6. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the composition containing the conditioning agent of step (a) or step (c) further comprises an ultraviolet filter. 7. The conditioning agent is a cationic surfactant, a cationic polymer, a non-volatile silicone, a volatile silicone, a non-volatile hydrocarbon, a saturated C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ straight chain aliphatic alcohol, a non-volatile carbon. 7. A cosmetic method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is selected from hydrogen esters and mixtures thereof. 8. A cosmetic method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that step (b) comprises washing the hair with a surfactant composition. 9. The surfactant composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the surfactant composition comprises a surfactant selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants. Makeup method.