JP2003270138A5 - - Google Patents
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- JP2003270138A5 JP2003270138A5 JP2002074219A JP2002074219A JP2003270138A5 JP 2003270138 A5 JP2003270138 A5 JP 2003270138A5 JP 2002074219 A JP2002074219 A JP 2002074219A JP 2002074219 A JP2002074219 A JP 2002074219A JP 2003270138 A5 JP2003270138 A5 JP 2003270138A5
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- hair
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- infrared absorption
- absorption spectrum
- near infrared
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Description
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
毛髪の状態を鑑別することは、毛髪用の化粧料の評価などには必須の事項であり、従来この様な毛髪の状態の鑑別は、非侵襲的な方法としては、専門パネラーによる官能検査が
あるのみであり、その他としては、侵襲的に毛髪を採取し、グロスメーターにより、つやの示性値としてのグロス値を測定する方法や摩擦感テスターにより、なめらかさの示性値である抵抗値を測定する方法などが存在している。即ち、毛髪の状態の鑑別において、非進取的に鑑別を行う方法の開発、取り分け、定量性のある鑑別法の開発が望まれていた。又、毛髪の状態の代理値として毛髪内の水分量があり、これを通常のフーリエ変換を使用しない近赤外吸収スペクトルであって、回折格子を用いた分散型の近赤外吸収スペクルより解析し、毛髪の示性値の代替として用いることは知られているが、近赤外吸収スペクルの解析より得られた水の特性と毛髪の状態との間の因果関係については検討されていない。又、分光分析と特定の示性値とをＰＬＳ分析等の重回帰分析、主成分分析などの多変量解析を行い、相関関係を明らかにする手技は知られているが、毛髪の状態と近赤外吸収スペクトルとについて、多変量解析を行い、近赤外吸収スペクトルより毛髪の状態を鑑別するような試みも為されていない。加えて、つややかさやなめらかさ等の毛髪の状態を近赤外吸収スペクトルの多変量解析より鑑別することも行われていなかったし、行うような発想自体も存在していなかった。毛髪のつややかさやなめらかさと水の存在状態やその存在量との因果関係は全く知られていなかった。[0002]
[Prior Art]
Discrimination of the condition of the hair is an essential item for evaluation of cosmetic for hair and the like, and conventionally, such discrimination of the condition of the hair is a non-invasive method, a sensory test by a specialized panelist There is only one method, and the other method is to extract the hair invasively and use a gloss meter to measure the gloss value as a gloss indication value or the friction value tester to measure the resistance value which is a smoothness indication value. There is a method to measure and the like. That is, in the discrimination of the condition of the hair, development of a method of performing discrimination non-interventionally, in particular, development of a discrimination method having quantitative property has been desired. In addition, there is a moisture content in the hair as a proxy value of the state of the hair, and this is a near infrared absorption spectrum that does not use a usual Fourier transform, and is analyzed from a dispersed near infrared absorption spectrum using a diffraction grating. Although it is known to use as a substitute for the indication value of hair, the causal relationship between the characteristics of water obtained by the analysis of near infrared absorption spectrum and the condition of the hair has not been examined. In addition, multiple regression analysis such as PLS analysis and multivariate analysis such as principal component analysis are performed for spectral analysis and specific indication value, and techniques to clarify the correlation are known, but the condition of the hair is close to that No attempt has been made to perform multivariate analysis on infrared absorption spectra and to distinguish the state of hair from near infrared absorption spectra. In addition, it has not been performed to distinguish the condition of the hair such as glossiness and smoothness from multivariate analysis of near-infrared absorption spectrum, and no idea itself to be performed existed. The causal relationship between the gloss and smoothness of the hair, the state of presence of water and the amount thereof was unknown at all.
【０００４】
【課題を解決するための手段】
この様な状況に鑑みて、本発明者らは毛髪の状態の鑑別法であって、予め状態の異なる２種以上の毛髪の近赤外吸収スペクトルを測定し、前記近赤外吸収スペクトルと状態の示性値とを多変量解析し、該分析結果を指標として、これと試験試料の近赤外吸収スペクトルとを比較し、試験試料を鑑別することを特徴とする、毛髪の状態の鑑別法により、試験試料の毛髪の状態を非侵襲的に、且つ、定量的に鑑別できることを見出し、発明を完成させるに至った。即ち、本発明は、以下に示す技術に関するものである。
（１）毛髪の状態の鑑別法であって、予め状態の異なる２種以上の毛髪の近赤外吸収スペクトルを測定し、前記近赤外吸収スペクトルと状態の示性値とを多変量解析し、該分析結果を指標として、これと試験試料の近赤外吸収スペクトルとを比較し、試験試料を鑑別することを特徴とする、毛髪の状態の鑑別法。
（２）前記近赤外吸収スペクトルが、フーリエ変換近赤外吸収スペクトル及び／又はダイオードアレー検出器によるものであることを特徴とする、（１）に記載の毛髪の状態の鑑別法。
（３）多変量解析が、重回帰分析乃至は主成分分析であることを特徴とする、（１）又は（２）に記載の毛髪の状態の鑑別法。
（４）毛髪の状態の表現項目が、なめらかさ及び／又はつややかさであることを特徴とする、（１）〜（３）何れか１項に記載の毛髪の状態の鑑別法。
（５）毛髪の状態の示性値がグロスメーターによる測定値、摩擦感テスターによる測定値、つややかさの官能試験結果及びなめらかさの官能試験結果から選ばれる１種乃至は２種以上である、（１）〜（４）何れか１項に記載の毛髪の状態の鑑別法。
（６）近赤外吸収スペクトルの測定波長の領域が、４７００〜５０００ｃｍ -1 であることを特徴とする、（１）〜（５）何れか１項に記載の毛髪の状態の鑑別法。
（７）毛髪用の化粧料の評価において、前記毛髪用の化粧料による処理の前後に於ける毛髪の状態を、（１）〜（６）何れか１項に記載の毛髪の状態の鑑別法によって鑑別して得られる化粧料による毛髪の状態の変化を指標とすることを特徴とする、毛髪用の化粧料の評価法。
（８）毛髪の状態のモニタリングにおいて、（１）〜（６）何れか１項に記載の毛髪の状態の鑑別法で鑑別された毛髪の状態を指標とすることを特徴とする、毛髪の状態のモニタ
リング方法。
以下、本発明について、更に詳細に説明を加える。[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In view of such a situation, the present inventors are a method of discriminating the condition of the hair, and measure in advance the near infrared absorption spectrum of two or more kinds of hairs having different conditions, and the near infrared absorption spectrum and the condition Method of multiplicative analysis of hair condition by comparing with the near-infrared absorption spectrum of the test sample with multivariate analysis of the value of the indicator and using the analysis result as an index to distinguish the test sample It has been found that the condition of the hair of the test sample can be differentiated non-invasively and quantitatively, and the invention has been completed. That is, the present invention relates to the technology described below.
(1) A method of discriminating the condition of hair, which comprises measuring in advance the near infrared absorption spectra of two or more kinds of hair in different conditions, and multivariate analyzing the near infrared absorption spectrum and the indication value of the condition A method of discriminating the condition of hair, which comprises comparing the test result with a near infrared absorption spectrum of a test sample, using the analysis result as an index.
(2) The method according to (1), wherein the near infrared absorption spectrum is a Fourier transform near infrared absorption spectrum and / or a diode array detector.
(3) The method according to (1) or (2), wherein the multivariate analysis is multiple regression analysis or principal component analysis.
(4) The identification method of the state of the hair according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the expression item of the state of the hair is smoothness and / or glossiness.
(5) The indication value of the condition of the hair is one or more selected from a measurement value by a gloss meter, a measurement value by a friction tester, a sensory test result of brightness and a sensory test result of smoothness, The discrimination method of the state of the hair as described in any one of (1)-(4).
(6) The identification method of the state of the hair according to any one of (1) to (5), wherein the region of the measurement wavelength of the near infrared absorption spectrum is 4700 to 5000 cm -1 .
(7) In the evaluation of the cosmetic for hair, the method for differentiating the state of hair according to any one of (1) to (6) before and after the treatment with the cosmetic for hair. The evaluation method of the cosmetic for hair characterized by making into a parameter change of the state of the hair by the cosmetic obtained by differentiating by this.
(8) In the monitoring of the condition of the hair, the condition of the hair characterized by the discrimination method of the condition of the hair according to any one of (1) to (6) is used as an indicator, the condition of the hair Monitoring method.
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
【０００７】
本発明の毛髪の鑑別法で使用されるフーリエ変換近赤外吸収スペクトルとしては、４０００〜１２０００ｃｍ -1 の内の少なくとも１００ｃｍ -1 が好ましい波長領域であり、特に好ましい波長領域では４７００〜５０００ｃｍ -1 である。これは、この波長領域に於けるスペクトルが毛髪の状態の示性値を良く反映しているからである。この範囲の近赤外吸収スペクトルは毛髪内の蛋白質の存在状態とその挙動を的確に捉えられていることもその一因と考えられる。[0007]
The Fourier transform infrared absorption spectrum used by the differentiation method of the hair of the present invention, at least 100 cm -1 are preferred wavelength region of the 4,000-12,000 cm -1, in a particularly preferred wavelength region 4700-5000 It is cm -1 . This is because the spectrum in this wavelength range well reflects the indicator of the condition of the hair. The near infrared absorption spectrum in this range is considered to be a factor that the state of protein in the hair and the behavior thereof are properly captured.
【００１３】
＜実施例１＞
予め用意した状態の異なる３種の毛髪をグロスメーターで光沢値を測定した。状態の異なる毛髪は、毛髪を濃度の異なるチオグリコール酸で処理することにより、調整した。同時にこの毛髪のフーリエ変換近赤外吸収スペクトル（波長４７００〜５０００ｃｍ -1 ）を測定し、二次微分を行った。光沢値と二次微分値についてＰＬＳ分析をアンスクランブラーＩＩを用いて行いＰＬＳ分析により検量線を作成した。検量線は図１に示す。これより、グロスメーターによる光沢値との間には良好な相関関係があることが判る。検量線上に光沢値をプロットすると光沢値ごとのブロックが形成されるようになり、この検量線を用いることにより、試験試料の毛髪のフーリエ変換近赤外吸収スペクトルより光沢値を算出することができることがわかる。又、高い相関係数より、本発明の鑑別法は定量的にも優れることが判る。[0013]
Example 1
The gloss value was measured with a gloss meter for three types of hair in different states prepared in advance. Hair in different conditions was adjusted by treating the hair with different concentrations of thioglycollic acid . At the same time to measure the Fourier transform near-infrared absorption spectrum of the hair (with a wavelength of 4700~5000 cm -1), was second derivative. A PLS analysis was performed on the gloss value and the second derivative value using an unscrambler II, and a calibration curve was created by PLS analysis. The calibration curve is shown in FIG. From this, it can be seen that there is a good correlation with the gloss value by the gloss meter. When gloss values are plotted on a calibration curve, blocks for each gloss value are formed, and by using this calibration curve, it is possible to calculate the gloss value from the Fourier transform near infrared absorption spectrum of the hair of the test sample I understand. Further, it can be understood from the high correlation coefficient that the discrimination method of the present invention is quantitatively excellent.
【００１５】
＜実施例３＞
実施例１と同様に、実施例１で使用した毛髪を用いて、専門パネラーの評価した評価値（なめらかさ）との関係を調べた。検量線を図３に示す。この検量線上の評価値のプロットの分布は評価値ごとに部録を形成していることが判る。これを利用して、この検量線を用いることにより、試験試料の毛髪のフーリエ変換近赤外吸収スペクトルより官能評価値を算出することができることがわかる。この様な官能評価に於いては、通常ある程度の熟練が必要とされるが、本発明の鑑別法によれば、どの様な人でも簡便に再現性の高い評価が行えることは注目に値する。[0015]
Example 3
In the same manner as in Example 1, the hair used in Example 1 was used to investigate the relationship with the evaluation value (smoothness) evaluated by a specialized panelist. The calibration curve is shown in FIG. It can be seen that the distribution of the plots of the evaluation values on the calibration curve forms a copy for each evaluation value. By using this calibration curve, it is understood that the sensory evaluation value can be calculated from the Fourier transform near infrared absorption spectrum of the hair of the test sample. Although such sensory evaluation usually requires a certain level of skill, it is noteworthy that according to the discrimination method of the present invention, any person can easily carry out highly reproducible evaluation.
【００１７】
＜実施例５＞
実施例２の測定結果を、実施例４と同様に主成分分析にかけた。使用したソフトウェアは実施例１と同じアンスクランブラーＩＩを用いた。結果を図５に示す。これにより、更に鮮明に摩擦感値ごとのクラス分けがされていることが判る。[0017]
Example 5
The measurement results of Example 2 were subjected to principal component analysis in the same manner as in Example 4 . The same software as used in Example 1 was used as the unscrambler II. The results are shown in FIG. Thereby, it can be seen that the classes are further clearly classified according to the feeling of friction value.
【００１８】
＜実施例６＞
実施例３の測定結果を、実施例４と同様に主成分分析にかけた。使用したソフトウェアは実施例１と同じアンスクランブラーＩＩを用いた。結果を図６に示す。これにより、更に鮮明に評価値ごとのクラス分けがされていることが判る。[0018]
Example 6
The measurement results of Example 3 were subjected to principal component analysis in the same manner as in Example 4 . The same software as used in Example 1 was used as the unscrambler II. The results are shown in FIG. Thus, it can be seen that the classification of each evaluation value is made more clearly.
【００１９】
＜実施例７＞
実施例１、４と同様の検討を波長５１００〜５３００ｃｍ -1 に変えて同様の検討を行った。結果を図７、８にしめす。これに於いても優れた回帰性とグロス値ごとの分布性がみられるが、４７００〜５０００ｃｍ -1 の場合程ではないことが判る。[0019]
Example 7
The same study as in Examples 1 and 4 was performed with the wavelength 5100 to 5300 cm -1 changed. The results are shown in FIGS. Also in this case, excellent reversibility and distribution for each gloss value are observed, but it is understood that this is not as good as in the case of 4700 to 5000 cm -1 .
【００２０】
＜実施例８＞
実施例７と同様の検討を波長４０００〜１２０００ｃｍ -1 に変えて同様の検討を行った。結果を図９、１０にしめす。これに於いても優れた回帰性とグロス値ごとの分布性がみられるが、４７００〜５０００ｃｍ -1 の場合程ではないことが判る。[0020]
Example 8
The same examination as in Example 7 was performed except that the wavelength was 4000 to 12000 cm -1 . The results are shown in FIGS. Also in this case, excellent reversibility and distribution for each gloss value are observed, but it is understood that this is not as good as in the case of 4700 to 5000 cm -1 .
Claims (8)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2002074219A JP3703438B2 (en) | 2002-03-18 | 2002-03-18 | Differentiation of hair condition |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2002074219A JP3703438B2 (en) | 2002-03-18 | 2002-03-18 | Differentiation of hair condition |
Publications (3)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JP2003270138A JP2003270138A (en) | 2003-09-25 |
| JP2003270138A5 true JP2003270138A5 (en) | 2004-10-28 |
| JP3703438B2 JP3703438B2 (en) | 2005-10-05 |
Family
ID=29203670
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2002074219A Expired - Fee Related JP3703438B2 (en) | 2002-03-18 | 2002-03-18 | Differentiation of hair condition |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP3703438B2 (en) |
Families Citing this family (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2005096938A1 (en) * | 2004-03-31 | 2005-10-20 | Pola Chemical Industries Inc. | Method of judging degree of hair damaging |
| JP2005287853A (en) * | 2004-04-01 | 2005-10-20 | Pola Chem Ind Inc | Evaluation method for hair |
| CA2620114A1 (en) | 2005-09-02 | 2007-03-08 | Pola Chemical Industries Inc. | Method of evaluating skin conditions and method of estimating skin thickness |
| JP5457755B2 (en) * | 2009-08-10 | 2014-04-02 | 花王株式会社 | Hair evaluation system and hair evaluation method |
| KR102406640B1 (en) * | 2015-09-30 | 2022-06-08 | (주)아모레퍼시픽 | Age evaluating method of scalp and hair |
| US11980279B2 (en) * | 2016-07-05 | 2024-05-14 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | System and method for establishing a user-specific hair treatment |
| DE102016212202A1 (en) * | 2016-07-05 | 2018-01-11 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Method and device for determining a degree of damage of hair and method for determining a user-specific hair treatment agent |
| DE102016222193A1 (en) * | 2016-11-11 | 2018-05-17 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Method for determining a user-specific hair treatment I |
| DE102016223916A1 (en) * | 2016-12-01 | 2018-06-07 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Method for determining a user-specific hair treatment III |
| CN109414191A (en) | 2016-07-05 | 2019-03-01 | 汉高股份有限及两合公司 | The method for determining the specific hair treatment of user |
-
2002
- 2002-03-18 JP JP2002074219A patent/JP3703438B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
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