JP2002069728A - Method for forming sleeve-cap of western-style wear - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for forming the sleeve-cap of a Western-style wear, giving firmness to the sleeve-cap and hardly causing fine ugly wrinkles on the front fabric of the sleeve-cap. SOLUTION: This method for forming the sleeve-cap of a Western-style wear comprises such processes that a hung interlining 6 is positioned at the reverse side of the face fabric of the sleeve-cap 5 of a spread upper sleeve 2 and lower sleeve 3 so that a cut rim 6a of the sleeve-cap side and a cut line 5a of the sleeve-cap 5 are overlapped on each other, the overlapped part of the cut rim 6a of the sleeve-cap side of the hung interlining 6 with the cut line 5a of the sleeve-cap 5 is sewn followed by giving a contraction to the sewn part to give firmness to the sleeve-cap 5.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for forming a sleeve cap of clothes.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, various methods for forming the sleeve have been devised so that the sleeve crests are provided with tension. For example, as shown in FIGS. 6 and 7, the upper sleeve 22 and the lower sleeve 23 are joined by the back seam 24 in the sleeve 21 of the clothes, and are developed as shown in Japanese Patent Publication No. 52-38787. A hanging core 26 having a sleeve crest side cutting edge 26a protruding from a cutting line 25a of the sleeve crest part 25 is formed on the back side of the surface cloth of the sleeve crest part 25 thus formed, and the sleeve crest side cutting edge 26a is cut by the cutting. Line 25
There has been a method in which the sleeve crest 25 is provided with tension by pressing the sleeve crest 25 into the inside of the sleeve c and bonding the entire surface of the sleeve crest 25 with the adhesive 27 or the like.

However, when the hanging core 26 is entirely adhered to the back surface of the front fabric of the sleeve crest 25 as in the prior art, the outer fabric is covered over the area where the hanging core 26 is adhered. Since it is hardened by the adhesive 27 or the like, there is a problem in that the movement of the outer cloth is restricted, which adversely affects the comfort.

[0004] In addition, fine irregular wrinkles called "slim wrinkles" may occur due to differences in expansion ratio and expansion conditions of the materials used for the hanging core 26 and the surface cloth of the sleeve crest portion 25, respectively. Yes, for example, while wool is used for the surface material of the sleeve crest portion 25, when cotton is used for the hanging core 26, due to the difference in expansion and contraction ratio between the surface material of the sleeve crest portion 25 and the hanging core 26. In such a case, the above-mentioned fine wrinkles called "slim wrinkles" are often formed on the surface material of the sleeve crest portion 25, which often causes a problem.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned conventional drawbacks, and an object of the invention is to provide tension to a sleeve crest portion and to form a "wrinkle" on a surface cloth of the sleeve crest portion. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method of forming a sleeve crest of a garment, which is less likely to generate fine and irregular wrinkles, and has good comfort and appearance.

[0006]

According to the present invention, there is provided a method for forming a sleeve crest of a clothes according to the present invention, which comprises the following constitution. That is, a sagging core having a sleeve edge side cutting edge cut substantially along the shape of the cutting line of the sleeve crest on the back surface side of the outer fabric of the sleeve crest formed of the developed upper sleeve and lower sleeve, the cutting line And the sleeve edge side cutting edge are arranged so as to overlap with each other, and the part where the cutting line and the sleeve edge side cutting edge overlap is met, and by applying `` Ise '' to the meeting part, the sleeve part is formed. Give tension. In this way, the cutting line of the sleeve crest, and only the portion where the cutting edge of the hanging crest of the hanging core overlaps, and for the other portions, neither the attachment nor the adhesion, so the surface cloth of the sleeve crest,
The movement is free without being restrained by the hanging core, and a large movement is possible. For this reason, fine and unnatural wrinkles called "slim wrinkles" hardly occur, and the comfort and appearance are improved. Then, by applying “Ise” to the meeting part, tension is given to the sleeve crest part.

[0007] Further, since the outer material of the sleeve crest portion and the hanging core are not integrated with each other except for the attachment portion and are in a free relationship with each other, even if the hanging core is expanded or contracted. However, the movement hardly affects the surface material of the sleeve crest. Therefore, "scratch wrinkles" due to the expansion and contraction of the hanging core are less likely to occur on the surface material of the sleeve crest.

[0008]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS One embodiment of a method for forming a sleeve crest of clothes according to the present invention will be described below with reference to FIGS.

As shown in FIG. 1, the sleeve 1 before being joined in a tubular shape has an upper sleeve 2 and a lower sleeve 3 joined together at a back seam 4 to form an expanded shape. A hanging core 6 having a sleeve crest side cutting edge 6a cut substantially along the shape of the cutting line 5a of the sleeve crest part 5 on the back side of the front cloth of the part 5,
The cutting line 5a of the sleeve crest portion 5 and the sleeve crest side cutting edge 6a are arranged so as to overlap with each other, and a portion where the crest side cutting edge 6a and the cutting line 5a overlap each other is joined by a seam 7. After that, by applying “Ise” to the meeting part, the sleeve crest 5 is stretched, and a moderate bulge is generated on the surface side of the sleeve crest 5. In order to maintain the tension of the sleeve crest 5, it is desirable that the fiber tension of the hanging core 6 be strong in the lateral direction. Therefore, for example, cotton 4
0/2 or wool 2/22 count, etc.
It is preferable to mainly use bristle animal hair fibers such as gorge hair, camel, or yak having a hair count of about 1/8 to 1/13. Then, the fiber directions of the warp and the weft of the hanging core 6 are substantially the same as the direction of the ground of the surface fabric of the sleeve crest 5, that is, the warp and the weft of the surface fabric of the sleeve crest 5. So that it is almost the same as the fiber direction,
It is desirable to be met.

The cutting edge 6b of the hanging core 6 on the opposite side (lower side) to the sleeve crest side (upper side) has a substantially curved shape of the sleeve crest side cutting edge 6a as shown in the illustrated embodiment. It is desirable that the curved shape follows, that is, the central portion is curved so as to be largely convex upward, and the side (lower side) opposite to the sleeve crest side (upper side) having such a curved shape. The hanging edge 6 is provided with the cutting edge 6b.

Next, a method of forming the sleeve cap of the clothes having the above configuration will be described together with the operation and effect. First, as shown in FIG. 2, the cutting line 5 a of the sleeve crest 5 is formed on the back side of the front cloth of the sleeve crest 5 of the upper sleeve 2 and the lower sleeve 3 unfolded in the state of being joined by the back seam 4. A hanging core 6 having a sleeve crest side cutting edge 6a cut substantially along the sleeve crest side cutting edge 6a is arranged so that the sleeve crest side cutting edge 6a overlaps the cutting line 5a of the sleeve crest portion 5, and the sleeve crest side cutting edge 6a is cut. The portion where the line 5a overlaps is met with a seam 7. However, in the sewn portion by the seam 7, since "seize" must be performed afterwards to make the sleeve crest portion 5 taut, the seam 7 is a special seam capable of "seize". It has been made by one. That is, to the lower thread of the sewing machine,
By lowering the rotation of the bobbin by using two basting threads 8 and slowing down the lower thread, the seam is straightened, while the upper thread is used in a normal manner, so that the normal thread is used. The winding seam becomes entangled with the lower thread. As a result, after the cutting line 5a and the sleeve edge side cutting edge 6a overlap with each other by this sewing method, only the basting thread 8 (bottom thread) can be pulled. It is a sewing method that can perform "Ise". However, the seam 7 may be hand-stitched.

In this manner, the basting thread 8 of the seam 7, which has been attached by the sewing method capable of performing the “seating”, is pulled from the end point side of the seam 7 as shown in FIG. I will try to avoid it. By applying “Ise” in this manner, an appropriate tension is given to the sleeve crest portion 5. As described above, after the hanging core 6 is met, "Ise"
Alternatively, for example, they may meet each other while "sewing" by hand sewing or the like.

As schematically shown in FIG. 5, in the method of forming a sleeve crest of a clothes according to the present invention, a cutting line 5a of a sleeve crest portion 5 is provided.
Only the portion where the hanging core 6 and the sleeve edge side cutting edge 6a overlap is joined by the seam 7, and the other portions are not attached or bonded. For this reason, the surface cloth of the sleeve crest portion 5 is free to move without being restrained by the hanging core 6, and can make a large movement. Therefore, the occurrence of fine and unnatural wrinkles called “slim wrinkles” can be suppressed, and the clothes provided with the sleeve crests 5 can have good comfort and appearance. Also,
The surface cloth of the sleeve crest portion 5 and the hanging core 6 are not integrated except for the mating portion, and have a free relationship with each other. Therefore, the hanging core 6 is stretched due to, for example, a problem on the material. Even if it shrinks or shrinks, the surface fabric of the sleeve crests 5 is hardly affected by the movement. Thus,
The occurrence of "prickle" due to expansion and contraction of the material is also suppressed.

In the illustrated embodiment, the hanging core 6 is provided with the sleeve-edge-side cutting edge 6a cut substantially along the shape of the cutting line 5a of the sleeve-edge portion 5. The edge 6a may be cut in a shape protruding from the cutting line 5a.
The sleeve edge side cutting edge 6a may be fitted so as to be pushed into the inside of the cutting line 5a.

[0015]

As is apparent from the above description, according to the method for forming a sleeve crest of a clothes according to the present invention, it is possible to impart a tension to a sleeve crest and to add a "C" to a surface cloth of the sleeve crest. Fine and unsightly wrinkles called "scratch wrinkles" are hardly generated, and the comfort and appearance are good.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an essential part development view showing a state in which a hanging core is attached to the back side of a surface material of a sleeve crest portion by a method of forming a sleeve crest of clothes according to the present invention.

[Fig. 2] An esoteric method in which "Ise" can be applied after sewing.
It is a principal part development view which shows the state where the hanging core was met on the sleeve part.

FIG. 3 is an essential part developed view showing a state in which a basting thread is being pulled in order to perform the “seating”.

FIG. 4 is an exploded view of a main part, showing a state in which wrinkles are smoothed in order to apply the “seize”.

FIG. 5 is a diagram schematically showing an end surface taken along line AA of FIG. 1;

FIG. 6 is an essential part development view for explaining a conventional method of forming a sleeve cap of clothes.

FIG. 7 is a diagram schematically showing an end surface taken along line BB of FIG. 6;

[Explanation of symbols]

 2 Upper sleeve 3 Lower sleeve 6 Hanging core 6a Cutting edge on sleeve side 7 Seam 8 Basting thread 5 Sleeve peak 5a Cutting line of sleeve peak

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A hanging core having a sleeve crest side cutting edge cut substantially along the shape of the cutting line of the sleeve crest, on the back side of the front fabric of the sleeve crests of the developed upper sleeve and lower sleeve, Arranged so that the cutting line and the sleeve edge side cutting edge overlap,
And forming the sleeve cap of the clothes, wherein the cutting line and the sleeve edge side cutting edge meet while overlapping, and by applying “Ise” to the meeting portion, the sleeve cap section has tension. Method.