JP2001525503A - Adhesive bonding - Google Patents

Abstract

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention is directed to an arrangement of layers, at least one of which is temporarily coated with a fusible adhesive, the fusion of layers, the performance of at least one traditional manufacturing process, the use of an adhesive. A method of making a multi-layer garment comprising the step of using heat or a combination of heat and pressure to dissipate, wherein the adhesive is a low molecular weight adhesive that exhibits a rapid decrease in viscosity upon heating. Supply. Thus, the adhesive flows out of the glue line mainly into the core substrate. Preferably, the heating step comprises a steam press of the fused fabric or tailored garment.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a method of making garments and the use of temporary adhesives in the method of making garments.

[0002]

[Prior art]

Mantles, such as jackets, are usually multi-layered garments. For example, clothing includes outer fabric, heart fabric, canvas, felt, and heart fabric. The ability to hold layers together during manufacturing to allow sewing, and then to be able to separate layers during and / or after manufacturing to loosen the lining and provide a tailored appearance Is preferred. For tailored clothing,
The outer fabric is preferably free floating from the core fabric to provide the same surface effect to the entire garment.

[0003] Attempts have been made to temporarily combine layers of clothing during manufacturing. In the past, it was necessary to place the heart fabric by basting against the outer fabric before tying the heart fabric to various locations in the garment. Advances in adhesive technology have attempted to temporarily place the core fabric by means of an adhesive that can be removed in a water or solvent-based dry cleaning process. It has been pointed out that the use of adhesives in garment manufacture has difficulty removing adhesive residues from within the five layers. Other problems include uneven stack separation and differential shrinkage in the solvent.

[0004]

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

The present invention seeks to provide an improved garment manufacturing method using a temporary fusible adhesive.

[0005]

In accordance with the present invention, an arrangement of layers, at least one layer of which is temporarily coated with a fusible adhesive, fusing the layers, performing at least one traditional manufacturing process, bonding A method for producing a multi-layer garment, comprising using heat or a combination of heat and pressure to dissipate the agent, wherein the adhesive is a low molecular weight adhesive that exhibits a rapid decrease in viscosity upon heating. A method is provided for:

The low molecular weight adhesive has a molecular weight of 5000 or less, more preferably 3000 or less, and most preferably 1500 or less. As used herein, the term "multi-layer garment" means that there is at least two layers in a portion of the garment after completion of sewing. Preferably, the heating step comprises a steam press of the fused fabric or tailored garment.

[0007] Preferably, at least one layer of the multi-layer garment includes a centering base material. Suitably, the centering fabric is selected from the group comprising canvas weave, twill weave, weft insert, condensed fabric or non-wovens available from textile companies such as William Clark & Sons Ltd. Preferably, the temporary fusible adhesive is coated on the centering fabric.

[0008] Preferably, the fusing step is performed at a temperature of 40 to 90 ° C. More preferably, the temperature is between 55 and 70 ° C. Suitably, this fusion step may take from 3 to 30 seconds. This time is based on the weight of the fabric and its moisture content, adhesive and temperature. Typically, fusing is performed by using line pressure on a compression roller that is 40 to 80 psi on a manual ironing or electrically controlled sustained fusing press.

[0009] Traditional manufacturing processes may include the formation of darts and / or seams, for example, to facilitate garment shaping. In a preferred embodiment, the adhesive exhibits a rapid decrease in viscosity when heated to a temperature of 100 ° C to 150 ° C. The use of a low molecular weight adhesive that exhibits a rapid decrease in viscosity upon heating is advantageous because the adhesive flows from the glue line, primarily and preferably into the cored substrate.

Preferably, the method includes a heating step under vacuum. This separates the comfort from the outer fabric. The present invention is also a low molecular weight adhesive that exhibits a rapid decrease in viscosity upon heating.
Supplies the use of temporary fusible adhesives in garment manufacturing. Preferably, the adhesive is used in a customary coating manner.

In one embodiment, dots of adhesive having a diameter of 0.2 mm to 0.55 mm are applied in a customary manner such that the number of dots per 2.5 cm is about 6 to 12 dots. Suitably, the dots are applied through a screen. Preferably, the diameter of the dots is 0.35 mm, and 10 dots are attached per 2.5 cm.

In another embodiment, the adhesive is applied as a 45 ° inclined slit. Suitably, the width of each slit is 0.35 mm and the length of each slit is 3.5 mm. The number of slits per 2.5 cm is five. The slit can be angled from 0 ° -90 °. The slit width can be 0.2 to 0.5 mm and the slit length can be 2 to 5 mm. The directions of the slits may be alternated.

In another embodiment, the adhesive is applied as slits that are linearly arranged vertically in the running direction of the fabric yarn. Suitable resins for use in the method according to the present invention include low molecular weight, resin-based adhesives with minimal molecular entanglement. Such resins include those made from natural products, ie, rosin derivatives, polymerized rosins, ester gums, terpins, rosin acids, and shellac. Synthetic resins such as ketone and hydrocarbon resins, coumarone indelite and low molecular weight polystyrene resins can also be used. Synthetic and waxy formulations such as low molecular weight ethylene vinyl acetate copolymers may also be used.

Preferably, the adhesive is applied as an emulsion. Preferably, the emulsion comprises a resin in water. Suitably, the emulsion is selected from the group comprising viscosity modifiers, plasticizers, optical bleaches and wetting agents. Preferably, the emulsion is print coated on a substrate through a rotating screen and dried to form a heat seal resin having a melting temperature of 55-90 ° C.

Accordingly, the present invention provides a substrate coated with a heat seal resin having a melting temperature of 55-90 ° C. On the other hand, the low molecular weight resin can be applied as a hot melt to a centering base fabric by a printing method. Preferably, the applicator and print screen are heated before printing on the substrate to prevent the hot melt from solidifying.

An advantage of the method is that once the dots are printed on the substrate, no further heating is required. A particular disadvantage is that the resin having a low melting point must be heated in large quantities and kept in a molten state, and thus oxidation and degradation can occur.

[0017]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

The present invention will be further described with reference to the following figures: Figure 1 illustrates a coating modality comprising 0.35mm wide, 3.5mm long, 45 ° inclined slits, 5 slits per 2.5cm. FIG. 2 illustrates a coating regime that includes 5 slits per 2.5 cm with vertical slits that are 0.35 mm wide and 3.5 mm long.

[0018] A preferred resin coating medium is a 50% emulsion of a cyclic ester gum, having a pressing ball softening point of 60 ° C. before the addition of the adhesive, which is then combined with the necessary additives, Stunningly printed patterns are clearly drawn on the surface of the substrate, and the substrate has a major portion of the printed resin profile that can form an adhesive bond. Formulations of temporary and permanent adhesives can be used in garment manufacture. Example 1-Floating Chest Piece The jacket surface is manufactured as follows.

The outer fabric is first cut according to the mold and size. The following parts (trim)
Precut to fuse with the outer fabric on the jacket surface. Trim, such as:-Stabilizing tape, ie, facing, shoulder, amhole, pocket, bridle-Folded collar-Surface fusible-Temporarily bond adhesive applied-Chest felt-Chest canvas (non-fused) ( Preparation for fusion) Turn the fabric over and place it on a flat surface. First, the surface fusible is placed on the outer dough. It is cut smaller than the front edge and the back of the fold edge of the fold collar (the bridle extends as a fold collar). The rest of the stabilizing tape, namely the face, shoulders,
Amholes and pockets can be placed, but no bridle tape.

The front side is now ready for fusion. All fused parts are accelerated at the same specified temperature, pressure and time. The point is to fuse the temporary and permanent fusion components under the same conditions, ie at about 60 ° C. (Attaching the floating chest piece) The chest felt and the chest canvas are combined by separate operations and fused. The chest pieces are then aligned along the bridle line and the bridle tape is fused to hold the chest pieces in place. This operation is performed by fusing the bridle by passing it through a manual iron or the entire surface through a fusion machine. Example 2-Double Laminated Chest Portion Except for the chest canvas (which is not required), all parts are cut as in Method A. (Preparation) As described above, all parts are arranged on the front side fabric. However, prior to the fusion operation, the chest felt may be placed with bridle tape along the bridle line covering the front edge.

The front side can now be fused; higher temperatures (about 80 ° C.) should be considered to accommodate the extra thickness of the chest felt. [Examples 1 and 2] (Finishing) The front dart is sewn into the outer cloth, opened and pressed. Sew the chest piece along the bridle line on the front canvas.

The sewing operation The jacket can now pass through the factory according to regulations until it is ready for the final press. At this stage, a complete dry clean cycle should be performed after finishing by steam pressing according to regulations. A steam press at 110 ° C. allows the temporary adhesive to flow into the core material. Example 3 Typically, suitable adhesive formulations are: Aqueous dispersion of rosin resin; Aqueous solution of polymer as lubricant; Thickener; Reoderant; Defoamer ; including.

A suitable dispersion of the resin contains 50% solids and is available as E600 from Permatac TSA. A suitable lubricant is Mirox OX. A suitable defoamer is Burst 602. A suitable reoderant is Tanafresh HFO.

[0024] Suitable thickeners are ALCOPRINT PTK and ALCOPRINT PTU. Suitable ratios by weight ratio of the above components are: Resin: Lubricant: Defoamer: Thickener: Leoderant = 200: 40: 0.8: 6: 2 Preferred thickeners are ALCOPRINT PTK and ALCOPRINT PTU And the relative amounts are respectively 1: 2.

Suitably, after mixing the resin and the lubricant, adding the defoamer and mixing, the thickener ALCO
Add PRINT PTU and Leoderant and mix. Then slowly add ALCOPRINT PTU to achieve the required viscosity. Viscosity should indicate 15 to 50 on a Brookfield instrument. More preferably, the viscosity is from 25 to 40, most preferably from 36 to 40 (ie 17,500 to 20,000 centipoise).

The adhesive is applied to the fabric in one of the coating modes described herein, typically in an amount of 5 to 20 g / m ² . Typically, about adhesive 10 g / m ² is attached to the heart dough, has been heart fabric coated with an adhesive, a temperature ranging from 50 to 90 ° C., typically, is dried at 70 ° C. . The coated core fabric is fused to the fabric at a temperature in the range of 40 ° C to 90 ° C and typically takes 3 to 30 seconds.

The bond strength is typically between 50 and 100 g / 25 mm.

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Claims (12)

[Claims] 1. Arrangement of layers where at least one layer is temporarily coated with a fusible adhesive, fusing the layers, performing at least one traditional manufacturing process, heating to dissipate the adhesive or A method for the manufacture of a multi-layer garment comprising the step of using a combination of heat and pressure, wherein the adhesive is a low molecular weight adhesive that exhibits a rapid decrease in viscosity upon heating. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the heating step comprises a steam press of the fused fabric and the tailored garment. 3. The multi-layer garment wherein at least one layer comprises a centering base fabric, wherein the base fabric is selected from the group comprising canvas weave, twill weave, weft insert, condensed fabric or non-woven. 3. The method according to 1 or 2. 4. The method of claim 3, wherein said temporary fusible adhesive is coated on a centering base fabric. 5. The method according to claim 1, wherein said fusing step is performed at a temperature in the range of 40 ° C. to 90 ° C. 6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the fusion step takes 3 to 30 seconds. 7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the fusion is performed on a continuous ironing press or a continuous fusion press with electric control.
The method of any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the method is performed by using line pressure on a compression roller that is 80 psi. 8. The method according to claim 1, wherein the adhesive exhibits a rapid decrease in viscosity when heated to a temperature between 100 ° C. and 150 ° C. 9. The method according to claim 1, wherein the heating step is performed under a vacuum. 10. The use of a temporary fusible adhesive in garment manufacture, wherein the adhesive is a low molecular weight adhesive that exhibits a rapid viscosity decrease upon heating. 11. The adhesive may be a natural product such as a rosin derivative, a polymerized rosin, an ester gum, terpin, rosin acid, shellac; a ketone and a hydrocarbon resin; Low molecular weight and molecular entanglement such as an adhesive selected from the group comprising resins made from synthetic resins such as resins; and synthetic resins and wax formulations such as low molecular weight ethylene vinyl acetate copolymers. 11. The use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein is a resin-based adhesive having a minimum. 12. A core material coated with an adhesive having a low molecular weight, which exhibits a rapid decrease in viscosity upon heating.