JP2001336046A - Stretchable warp knitted fabric having excellent heat retaining property - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a stretchable warp knitted fabric having heat retaining properties especially required for a material for autumn and winder such as an underwear and an outerwear, having thinness, excellent in comfortableness when wearing, in appearance and feeling and stable qualities. SOLUTION: This stretchable warp knitted fabric has <=0.12 cm thickness of cloth composed of an unstretchable yarn and a stretchable elastic yarn constituting a ground weave and has heat retaining properties of <=0.058 cal/cm2/sec consumed calorie in a heat retaining property test and <=0.07 qmax contact warm-cold sensitivity.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric comprising a non-stretchable yarn and a stretchable elastic yarn to form a ground structure. The purpose is to provide knitted fabric.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A warp knitted fabric comprising a ground structure with non-stretchable yarns and stretchable elastic yarns has a favorable fit function.
It is widely used in women's underwear and outer materials. Most of them are composed of a combination of a nylon yarn or a polyester yarn and a stretchable elastic yarn as a non-stretchable yarn. Although these warp-knitted fabrics are excellent in fit, they have a cold touch due to the smooth surface of the fabric, and have a problem as a material for fall and winter.

As a method of obtaining heat retention, there is a method of raising the thickness of the fabric by raising the sinker loop surface or the needle loop surface of the warp knitted fabric, or warming the contact feeling by making the fabric hairy. However, it is not preferable in some applications because the thickness is increased or the appearance of the fabric is impaired. In addition, a special machine is required for raising the hair, and there are drawbacks such as high cost and high quality due to high difficulty.

Further, it is possible to obtain a swelling without raising the hair by changing the knitting structure to a pile structure, but this is not preferable in view of the fact that the thickness of the fabric is thickened.

When a natural fiber or a processed yarn is used instead of a knitted structure, a warm contact feeling can be obtained by the effect of the fluff of the original yarn and the effect of the crimp, but the appearance quality is inferior.
There is a problem that it is inferior in clarity, deep dyeing and fastness when dyed.

Further, it is possible to improve the heat retention by using hollow fibers or the like. However, since the surface of the raw yarn is smooth, it becomes crisp when the fabric repels, and the hollow fibers are hard, so It is not preferable because it impairs.

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a stretchable warp knitted fabric which is excellent in appearance and quality, can be easily manufactured, and has a thin, warm and soft texture.

[0008]

That is, the present invention relates to a stretchable warp knitted fabric comprising a non-stretchable yarn and a stretchable elastic yarn constituting a ground structure, and has a heat consumption of 0.058 ca in a heat retention test.
l / cm ² / sec or less and contact warmth / coolness of the fabric qm
It is a stretchable warp knitted fabric excellent in heat retention, characterized in that ax is 0.07 or less.

[0009] Specifically, the cloth thickness is 0.12c.
m or less, and the non-stretchable yarn is a polyester mixed yarn, particularly preferably a polyester mixed yarn whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, and one component has a length of ethylene glycol unit carbon measured by solid state NMR. A polyester fiber having a proportion of the long-term component in the relaxation time of 15% or more, and preferably, the fiber of the component occupies at least 20% by weight of the mixed fiber; Desirably smaller than the filament of the other component.

[0010] Further, the non-stretchable elastic yarn is used for Diaceliton Fa.
0.4 g of st Scarlet B (CI Disperse Redl)
L at an aqueous solution adjusted to a concentration of L at a bath ratio of 1: 100.
It is desirable that the polyester fiber is a polyester fiber having an exhaustion rate of 60% or more after treatment at 00 ° C. for 90 minutes and a dyeing fastness to an ultraviolet carbon arc lamp of tertiary or higher according to JIS L0842.

A stretchable elastic yarn is added to a prepolymer obtained by reacting a polyol with an excess of an organic diisocyanate with an organic diamine and a small amount of a secondary monoamine to form a carboxylic acid and a carboxylic acid. It is preferable that the yarn is obtained from a polyurethane solution obtained by adding a 5- to 200% acidic substance selected from carbon dioxide to the chemical equivalent of the base of the organic diamine and performing a chain extension reaction.

In a warp knitted fabric in which a ground structure is formed by a non-stretchable yarn and a stretchable elastic yarn, the non-stretchable yarn is used as a front reed.
It is preferable that the stretchable elastic yarns are arranged in a full set on the rear reed, the swing width of the non-stretchable yarns is 1 stitch or more and 2 stitches or less, and the swing width of the stretchable elastic yarns is 1 stitch.

The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to the present invention, which is excellent in heat retention and lightness, has a heat consumption of 0.058 in a heat retention test.
cal / cm ² / sec or less and the contact warm / cool sensation qmax of the fabric is 0.07 or less. The thickness of the cloth is desirably 0.12 cm or less, especially 0.06 cm.
cm or more and 0.12 cm or less. If the thickness of the cloth is less than 0.06 cm, it is not preferable because sufficient heat retention cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 0.12 cm, it becomes difficult to move when worn, or the comfort is deteriorated, which is not preferable.

The heat consumption of a stretchable warp knitted fabric excellent in heat retention and lightness in a heat retention test is 0.058 cal / cm ^2.
/ Sec or less, more preferably 0.056 cal
/ Cm ² / sec or less. If the amount of heat consumed in the heat retention test exceeds 0.058 calcm ² / sec, sufficient warmth cannot be obtained at the time of wearing, and it is necessary to wear with other materials or the like, which is not preferable.

The contact warmth / cold sensation qmax of a stretchable warp knitted fabric excellent in heat retention and light weight is preferably 0.07 or less, more preferably 0.05 or less. The contact thermal sensation indicates the tactile sensation when the fabric is reeded. The smaller the numerical value, the warmer the feel, and the larger the numerical value, the cooler the feel. Contact thermal sensation q
If max exceeds 0.05, it is unpleasant because it becomes instantaneously fragile when worn, causing discomfort.

The non-stretchable yarn used in the present invention is a polyester blended yarn in which the main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, and one of the components is a length in the longitudinal relaxation time of ethylene glycol unit carbon measured by solid state NMR. It is desirable to be composed of a polyester fiber having a time component ratio of 15% or more. Further, the fiber component occupies at least 20% by weight of the total mixed yarn, and it is desirable that the boiling water shrinkage ratio is smaller than that of the other component filament. The proportion of the long-term component in the longitudinal relaxation time of the ethylene glycol unit carbon measured by solid-state NMR of the polyester fiber forming the polyester mixed fiber is 15% or more, preferably 19% or more. If the proportion of the long-term component in the longitudinal relaxation time of the ethylene glycol unit carbon is less than 15%, it is not preferable because darkness at the time of dyeing is lacked and a soft texture cannot be obtained. In addition, the polyester fiber constituting the polyester mixed fiber is 2 of the mixed fiber.
If the amount is less than 0% by weight, darkness at the time of dyeing is lacked as described above, and a soft texture cannot be obtained. Further, if the dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. is the same as that of the filament of the component and the other component, the mixed fiber does not swell even by the heat treatment at the time of post-processing of the knitted fabric, so that sufficient heat insulation cannot be obtained. Not preferred. The proportion of the long-term component in the longitudinal relaxation time of ethylene glycol unit carbon measured by solid-state NMR is 160% of the filament component of 15% or more.
It is preferable that the dry heat shrinkage at ℃ is -10 to 0% and the dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C of other filament components is 5 to 25%.

In the present invention, the non-stretchable yarn is Diaceliton.
Fast Scarlet B (CI Disperse Redl) 0.4
The exhaustion rate after treatment at 100 ° C. for 90 minutes at a bath ratio of 1: 100 with respect to the aqueous solution adjusted to a concentration of g / L is 60% or more, and the dyeing fastness to ultraviolet carbon arc lamp light according to JIS L0842. Desirably, the polyester fiber has a degree of grade 3 or higher. Diaceliton
Fast Scarlet B (CI Disperse Redl) 0.4
If the exhaustion rate after treatment at 100 ° C. for 90 minutes with an aqueous solution adjusted to a concentration of g / L at a bath ratio of 1: 100 is less than 60%, the dark color of the fiber is not sufficient even under ordinary polyester dyeing conditions. Not preferred. Further, if the color fastness to ultraviolet carbon arc lamp light according to JIS L0842 is less than Class 3, it is not preferable because it lacks practicality.

In the present invention, the elastic elastic yarn is added to a prepolymer obtained by reacting a polyol with an excess of an organic diisocyanate with an organic diamine and a small amount of a secondary monoamine to form a carboxylic acid before the chain extension reaction starts. It is desirable that the yarn is obtained from a polyurethane solution obtained by adding a 5-200% acidic substance selected from an acid and a carbon dioxide gas to the chemical equivalent of the base of the organic diamine and performing a chain extension reaction. The elastic elastic yarn used here is required to be resistant to high-temperature and high-pressure dyeing because the non-elastic yarn to be knitted and knitted contains polyester yarn. In order to impart this property, it is desirable to use an elastic yarn produced from the following polyurethane solution. A prepolymer of a terminal isocyanate comprising a polyol and an excess diisocyanate is N,
When dissolved in an inert polar solution such as N-dimethylacetamide, N, N-dimethylformamide, and hexamethylenephosphamide, and subjected to a chain extension reaction with an organic diamine and a small amount of a secondary monoamine to obtain a polymer,
After the end of the prepolymer reaction and before the start of the chain extension reaction, after adding a specific acidic substance to the prepolymer solution,
It can be obtained by performing a chain extension reaction. Suitable acidic substances are selected from N, N-dimethylacetamide, carboxylic acids and carbon dioxide having an acid dissociation index of 10 or more in N, N-dimethylformamide. Known additives such as an antioxidant, a light stabilizer, a matting agent, a fungicide, and a metal soap are added to the obtained polyurethane solution, if necessary, and supplied to a spinning machine to produce fibers. The obtained fiber yarn can be made to have a high molecular weight by heat treatment, and the polyurethane solution has extremely high viscosity stability over time and has characteristics suitable for the present invention.

In the warp knitted fabric of the present invention in which the non-stretchable yarn and the stretchable elastic yarn form a ground structure, the non-stretchable yarn is fully set on the front reed and the stretchable elastic yarn is fully set on the rear reed. It is preferable that the arrangement is such that the swing width of the non-stretchable yarn is 1 stitch or more and 2 stitches or less, and the swing width of the stretchable elastic yarn is 1 stitch. When the non-stretchable yarn is placed on the rear reed and the stretchable yarn is placed on the front reed, the stretchable elastic yarn is exposed on the fabric surface. It is not preferable because it promotes the deterioration of. The swing width of the non-stretchable yarn is 1 stitch or more and 2
Desirably less than the needle. If the swing width of the non-stretchable yarn is less than one stitch, the yarn becomes a chain stitch and cannot be connected to a horizontal loop, which is not preferable. Further, if the number of the needles is three, the length of the sinker loop of the non-stretchable yarn becomes longer, so that the thickness of the fabric becomes thicker, and the pilling and snag characteristics are deteriorated.

[0020]

The present invention will be described below in detail with reference to examples. The present invention is not limited to the following embodiments. The method used in the evaluation of the present invention is as follows. (Insulation) Conducted by the thermolab method. Apparatus name: Heat consumption Q was determined using a Thermolaho test apparatus manufactured by Kato Tech. Heat consumption Q [Cal / cm ² /sec]=(0.01×I×V)
− (Leakage current × △) I: current [A] V: voltage [v] Leakage current: 0.
01859A ΔT: BT. BOX temperature-environmental temperature (contact thermal sensation) Apparatus name: The thermal absorption characteristics of the cloth are measured using a Thermolaho II test apparatus manufactured by Kato Tech. This absorption is started by storing heat in a single copper plate at a constant temperature of 35 ° C. and bringing it into contact with the surface of the cloth. When a heat flow signal resulting from this absorption is passed through a low-pass filter, a peak appears in the heat flow after about 0.2 sec. This peak value is qma
It is defined as x and is defined as the contact thermal sensation of the cloth. (Relaxation time) After the fiber sample was cut finely, Var
CP-M using an ian XL-300 NMR spectrometer
A solid C-NMR spectrum is measured by the AS method (sample rotation speed: 3.5 kHz, contact time: 2 ms, pulse waiting time: 80 seconds). Relaxation time is Torc
The measurement is performed using a HI pulse sequence. For a decay curve plotting the intensity of the carbon signal in ethylene glycol units versus the relaxation measurement latency, the relaxation time was 2.
1, 4.6, 9.8, 21, 45, 96, 204, 43
Assuming that there are 9 components of 7,933 seconds, the ratio of these components is determined by the least squares method. Of the above relaxation times, the relaxation time indicating 204, 437, 933 seconds is defined as a long time component. (Dye exhaustion rate) 1 g of fiber sample was measured
100 g of an aqueous solution prepared by adjusting Fast Scarel B (CI Disperse Red 1) to a concentration of 0.4 g / l was heated to 100 ° C. in an Erlenmeyer flask using an osmotic dyeing machine, and after a measurement sample was charged, treatment was performed for 90 minutes. Bath ratio 1: 1 using a permeation dyeing machine
The dyeing solution after treatment at 100 ° C. for 90 minutes at 00 was measured with a spectrophotometer, and the dye exhaustion was determined from the amount of residual dye. (Dyeing fastness) A measuring fiber sample reed treated to measure the dye exhaustion rate was immersed in 100 ml of a solution in which 0.5 g / L of soda ash and 0.5 g / L of hydrosulfite were dissolved, and the temperature was 60 ° C. Treatment for 10 minutes, rinse with hot water, rinse with water and dry,
Samples for evaluating color fastness were prepared. Using this, a color fastness test to an ultraviolet carbon arc lamp according to JIS L0842 was performed to obtain a color fastness.

(Example 1) Using a two-reed warp knitting machine, a fineness of 66 dtex, 36
The polyester mixed yarn of the filament was arranged. The proportion of the long-term component in the longitudinal relaxation time of ethylene glycol unit carbon measured by solid-state NMR of one polyester fiber component of the mixed fiber is 20% (dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C .: −
5%) Polyester makes up 25% by weight of the total filaments. The other fiber component of the mixed fiber is 160 ° C 30
A high shrinkage yarn having a dry heat shrinkage of 160 ° C. at the time of minute treatment of 20% was used. A polyurethane elastic yarn (density: 44 dtex) was used as the elastic elastic yarn of the rear reed. In the knitting process, the yarns of the front reed and the rear reed are arranged in a full set, the non-stretchable yarn of the front reed has a 10/23 structure, and the elastic elastic yarn of the rear reed has a 12/10 structure. Knitting was implemented. Here, the polyester mixed fiber used as the non-stretchable yarn is made of polyethylene terephthalate having terephthalic acid as a carboxylic acid component and ethylene glycol as a glycol component, at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. and a take-up speed of 3100.
The highly oriented unstretched yarn obtained by melt-spinning at m / min is passed through a hot roller at 80 ° C., stretched 1.7 times, and then
A two-stage relaxation heat treatment was performed at a speed of 500 m / min at an overfeed rate of 12.0% and 35.0% by a non-contact first heater at 0 ° C. and a second heater at 200 ° C., respectively. It was manufactured by blending with a high shrinkage of 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage of 20% during the minute treatment. The elastic elastic yarn is produced by spinning a polymer solution produced under the following conditions. That is, 516.6 parts by weight of polytetramethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 1825 and 114.9 parts by weight of 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate were reacted at 80 ° C. for 3 hours to obtain a prepolymer having both ends isocyanate groups. After cooling this to 40 ° C,
1160 parts by weight of N, N-dimethylacetamide was added and dissolved, and cooled to 10 ° C. 4.5 parts by weight of acetic acid was added thereto and dissolved by stirring. Immediately thereafter, while stirring the prepolymer solution vigorously, the ethylenediamine 9.0 was added.
A solution obtained by dissolving 1.1 parts by weight of diethylamine and 1.1 parts by weight of diethylamine in 199.8 parts by weight of N, N-dimethylacetamide was added all at once and stirred to obtain a polyurethane solution having a concentration of 32%. The greige obtained by the above-described production method was refined, relaxed, and temporarily set under ordinary conditions, and then dyed with an ordinary disperse dye (temperature: 130 ° C., 40 minutes). After dyeing, it was passed through the usual steps of soaping, dewatering, and final setting, and was finished with 98 courses and 58 wales. The thickness of this fabric was 0.09 cm, the heat consumption in the heat retention test was 0.056 cal / cm ² / sec, and the contact thermal sensation was qm.
ax was 0.05, which was lightweight and excellent in heat retention. The fabric is also soft and swelling and is dyed dark. Washing test (A-2) which is a required property of the obtained dough
Method, grade 4-5), friction test (gakushin type, dry and wet grade 5), light resistance test (fade meter 20 hr 4-5 grade), and sweat (acid and alkali grade 5).

Comparative Example 1 A non-stretchable yarn was obtained by melt spinning using polyethylene terephthalate having terephthalic acid as a carboxylic acid component and ethylene glycol as a glycol component at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. and a take-up speed of 1500 m / min. The high-oriented unstretched yarn was passed through a hot roller at 80 ° C and a hot plate at 150 ° C and stretched 3.1 times to obtain a drawn yarn having a dry heat shrinkage of 10% at 160 ° C.
A similar structure was used using the same stretchable elastic yarn as in the example, except that it was mixed with a high-shrink yarn having a dry heat shrinkage of 20% at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes to obtain a 66-denitex 36-filament mixed yarn. Knitted fabric was finished under the same processing conditions. The warp knitted fabric obtained 98 courses and 58 wales, but the fabric thickness was 0.0
5cm, heat consumption in heat retention test is 0.062c
al / cm ² / sec, contact thermal sensation qmax is 0.09
Therefore, sufficient heat retention could not be obtained.

(Comparative Example 2) Among the production conditions of Example 1, 141.5 parts of 4,4'-diphenylmethane dissocyanate was used as a stretchable elastic yarn, and ethylenediamine was used as a chain extender without adding acetic acid. A 44 decitex yarn produced in the same manner except that propylene diamine was used instead was obtained. Otherwise in the same manner as in Example 1, an elastic warp knitted fabric was obtained. The obtained knitted fabric has the same thickness and heat retention as those in Example 1, and although the desired object of the present invention is obtained, the stretchable elastic yarn becomes brittle and the stretchability is reduced. From the viewpoint of innerwear.

(Comparative Example 3) The non-stretchable yarn and the stretchable elastic yarn were the same as in Example 1, but the knitted structure was a non-stretchable yarn having a 10/34 structure, a stretchable elastic yarn. 12/10
And As a result, the heat consumption in the heat retention test was 0.0
55 cal / cm ² / sec, the contact warmth / coolness sensation qmax was 0.05, and the heat retention was sufficient, but the thickness of the fabric was as thick as 0.18 cm, and the pilling characteristics were as low as 2nd grade. Although the objective of the period was to achieve a knitted fabric to be achieved, there was a problem in terms of thickness and pilling.

[0025]

The stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a heat retaining property required especially for autumn / winter materials in underwear and outerwear, and is thin, comfortable and has a stable appearance with excellent appearance and texture. And a stretchable warp knitted fabric having the following.

Claims (6)

[Claims] 1. A stretchable warp knitted fabric comprising a non-stretchable yarn and a stretchable elastic yarn constituting a ground structure, the heat consumption in a heat retention test is 0.058 cal / cm ² / sec or less, and An elastic warp knitted fabric excellent in heat retention, characterized in that a contact thermal sensation qmax is 0.07 or less. 2. The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the thickness of the fabric is 0.12 cm or less. 3. The non-stretchable yarn is a polyester hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber, wherein one component of the mixed yarn has a proportion of a long-time component in the longitudinal relaxation time of ethylene glycol unit carbon measured by solid-state NMR of 15%. The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the stretchable knitted fabric is a polyester fiber of not less than 10%. 4. The non-stretch yarn is Diaceliton Fast Scar.
Let B (CI Disperse Redl) was adjusted to a concentration of 0.4 g / L in an aqueous solution at 100 ° C at a bath ratio of 1: 100.
2. The polyester fiber according to claim 1, wherein the polyester fiber has an exhaustion rate of 60% or more after 0-minute treatment, and has a tertiary or higher dyeing fastness to ultraviolet carbon arc light according to JIS L0842. Stretch warp knitted fabric. 5. A prepolymer obtained by reacting a polyol with an excess of an organic diisocyanate, a stretchable elastic yarn is added with an organic diamine and a small amount of a secondary monoamine to form a carboxylic acid and a carboxylic acid before the start of a chain extension reaction. 2. A yarn obtained from a polyurethane solution obtained by adding a 5-200% acidic substance selected from carbon dioxide to a chemical equivalent of a base of an organic diamine and performing a chain extension reaction. The stretchable warp knitted fabric as described. 6. A full set of non-stretchable elastic yarns on the front reed and stretchable elastic yarns on the rear reed, and the swing width of the non-stretchable yarn is not less than 1 stitch and not more than 2 stitches. Elastic thread swing width is 1
The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, which is a needle.