IT201800001698A1 - PROCEDURE FOR MAKING A TEXTILE ARTICLE - Google Patents

Description

Description of a patent application for an industrial invention

DESCRIPTION

The present invention relates to a method of producing a garment particularly with yarns comprising natural fibers (animal or vegetable) in pure or blended with each other or also blended with synthetic and / or artificial fibers.

By natural animal fibers we mean fibers obtained from insects (for example silkworm) or from fleece (for example wool, alpaca, vicunia, cashmere, camel, angora, etc.)

By natural vegetable fibers we mean all the fibers obtained from plants, shrubs, florescences, roots, leaves (for example ramie, hemp, kapok, bamboo, cotton, linen, etc.).

As known, there are worsted spinning techniques and carded spinning techniques.

Worsted spinning is the processing indicated for long fibers while carded spinning is the processing indicated for short fibers that cannot undergo the combing operation.

Worsted yarns are used in both weaving and knitting and are characterized by a compact, smooth and uniform appearance.

Carded yarns are also used in both weaving and knitwear and are characterized by shorter fibers, a larger average count, lower section regularity, greater bulk, greater softness and greater hairiness.

Each of the spinning techniques referred to above therefore produces a yarn that gives the garment specific properties in terms of fineness, brilliance, lightness, bulkiness, softness, chromatic effect, resistance to pilling, felting and rubbing.

The difficulty of spinning or weaving natural fiber yarns of high counts is known which, precisely because of their high thinness, tend to break during processing.

For this reason, a processing technique is now available that uses water-soluble fibers that give the necessary mechanical resistance during spinning or weaving and are then removed for dissolution at the end of the processing.

The mixture of fibers must be perfectly homogeneous, especially when using very high percentages of water-soluble fiber, to avoid the formation of holes on the finished product due to the inconsistency of the resulting yarn.

The technical aim of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a garment made of fabric or knitted yarn which has some typical characteristics of worsted spinning and some typical characteristics of carded spinning.

The technical task according to the present invention is achieved by a method of producing a garment characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

providing a staple fiber base material comprising natural fibers capable of being combed in a combing machine;

-performing in said combing machine a combing of the base material in order to parallelize the fibers until a combed strip is formed; - open the fibers in a wolf carding machine without affecting their length;

- perform the fiber densification;

-mixing said fibers with water-soluble fibers in a temperature range between 50 ° C and 95 ° C;

- processing said mixture of fibers in a carding machine so as to form a carded sliver;

- perform the opening of the fibers of the said carded belt in a wolf carding machine without affecting its length;

- processing the open fibers in a carding assortment to form wicks;

-processing the wicks in a spinning machine to form a yarn;

- dissolving the water-soluble fibers present in the yarn and forming the garment with the yarn or vice versa forming the garment and dissolving the water-soluble fibers present in the yarn. Some steps of the method according to the invention may present a different sequentiality.

For example, the production method of a garment conforming to the invention is characterized by the fact that it includes the aforementioned phases in this sequential order:

providing a staple fiber base material comprising at least natural fibers of an average length at least sufficient to be combed in a combing machine;

-mixing said material with water-soluble fibers in a temperature range between 50 ° C and 95 ° C;

- perform the ensimage of said mixture of fibers;

-performing in said combing machine a combing of said mixture of fibers to parallelize the fibers until forming a combed ribbon;

-perform the opening of the fibers of said combed belt in a wolf carding machine without affecting the length of the fibers;

- processing the mixture of fibers in a carding machine so as to form a carded sliver;

- perform the opening of the fibers of said carded belt in a wolf carding machine without affecting the length of the fibers;

- processing the open fibers in a carding assortment to form wicks;

-processing the wicks in a spinning machine to form a yarn;

- dissolving the water-soluble fibers present in the yarn and forming the garment with the yarn or vice versa forming the garment and dissolving the water-soluble fibers present in the yarn. The yarn produced can be twisted into two or more identical or different plies, each of the garments with which the produced yarn is returned can be made of natural fibers and / or synthetic fibers and / or artificial fibers, and in one case one of the garments it can be entirely in water-soluble fibers such as PVA.

Advantageously, this production method allows to obtain an ultra-fine yarn typical of a worsted spinning together with a softness and bulkiness typical of carded spinning.

This is obtained by subjecting to various carding processes a mixture of fibers obtained starting from a base material subjected to a combing process.

Advantageously, said wicks can be processed in said spinning machine until a yarn is obtained which, after the dissolution of the water-soluble fibers, has a count between 1 / 60,000 Nm and 1 / 500,000 Nm.

Advantageously, said mixture has a weight percentage of water-soluble fibers comprised between 50% and 95%.

Advantageously, if the garment is made of woven fabric, said yarn is first woven and subsequently said water-soluble fiber is removed from said fabric.

Advantageously, if the garment is knitted, said yarn is combined and twisted, said water-soluble fiber is dissolved from said yarn and subsequently said yarn is knitted.

Further features and advantages of the invention will become more evident from the following description of the process for the production of a garment according to the invention.

The method of manufacturing a garment employs a staple fiber base material comprising long natural fibers.

By long natural fibers we mean fibers having an average length greater than 40 mm, preferably between 40 mm and 70 mm.

In the base material there may be natural fibers in pure or also in blends with each other or in blends with artificial or synthetic fibers.

The staple fiber base material is combed in a combing machine to parallelize the fibers to form a combed web.

The combed belt is packed to be transferred to a wolf carding machine where, after being unpacked, it is subjected to the opening of the fibers without affecting the length of the fibers themselves.

This operation results in a uniform mixing of the fibers. Subsequently, the ensimage of the open fibers is performed.

Subsequently, water-soluble fibers are joined to the open fibers in a temperature range between 50 ° C and 95 ° C so as to form a mixture.

The water-soluble fibers used are preferably polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibers.

The water-soluble fibers of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) preferably have an average length comprised between 50 mm and 70 mm.

The mixture is made with a weight percentage of water-soluble fibers between 50% and 95%.

Subsequently the mixture is processed in a carding machine, for example in a double card, so as to form a carded belt.

Subsequently, in a wolf carding machine, the fibers of the carded sliver are opened without affecting the length of the fibers themselves.

This operation determines a uniform mixing of the fibers to avoid the formation of inhomogeneities on the resulting yarn which would negatively affect the quality of the finished product. The open fibers are then processed in a carding assortment to form wicks.

Subsequently the wicks are processed in a spinning machine to form a yarn.

For the production of the garment at this point it is possible to carry out a weaving or knitting process with the yarn.

For the yarn destined for knitwear, the water-soluble fibers present in the yarn are dissolved first and then the garment is made with the resulting yarn.

For the yarn intended for woven fabrics, the yarn is first woven and then the water-soluble fibers present in the yarn of the fabric are dissolved.

Furthermore, for woven fabrics the yarn can be combined and twisted and the yarn thus produced can be used for weaving.

The yarn obtained after the dissolution of the water-soluble fibers has a count between 1 / 60,000 Nm and 1 / 500,000 Nm.

By way of example, we describe in more detail the processing cycle of a basic material consisting of staple cashmere fibers having an average length between 46 mm and 50 mm.

The base material is fed to the combing machine which parallels the fibers to form the combed strip which is then packed.

At this point the combed sliver, instead of continuing to be processed according to the worsted spinning technique, is processed according to the carded spinning technique.

The worsted belt is loaded on the wolf card which opens the fibers thanks to the combined action on one side of two grooved cylinders that hold the material and on the other side of a rotating drum equipped with spikes that unravel the material held by the grooved cylinders. Then the material is fed to the cutter which has a mobile vertical belt equipped with steel tips that hook the cashmere fibers, mix them, and transport them upwards where a special roller frees the cashmere fibers from the tips of the carpet. The open cashmere fibers are then oiled with a mixture generally composed of oleants, antistats and water.

A possible formulation of the bath for the encasing of the cashmere fiber includes, for example, the following ingredients:

- Ricinfil <TM> oil: 1,5% vol

- Fibramix pf100 <TM> antistatic: 2.5% vol

- water: 6% vol

To these ingredients are added various proportions an emulsifying agent, a softener, additives, and a condenser.

After ensiming, the cashmere fiber is stored in a storage chamber for 2 - 4 days at room temperature and controlled relative humidity between 55% and 65%.

After storage, the cashmere fiber is mixed with water-soluble Kuralon K-II <TM> fiber with an average length between 55 mm and 65 mm.

Among the various versions available on the market, a Kuralon K-II <TM> fiber is chosen which melts in a temperature range between 85 ° C and 95 ° C.

The blend is made with 30% by weight of cashmere fiber and 70% by weight of water-soluble fiber.

To homogeneously mix the cashmere fibers with the water-soluble fibers and lightly impregnate the water-soluble fibers as well so as to eliminate accumulations of electrostatic charge that would complicate the subsequent processing, the mixture thus obtained is sent to a double carding machine which produces a carded belt which in turn it is then sent to the wolf card where the material with homogeneously mixed fibers is frayed.

At this point the fluffed material is fed to the carding assortment which transforms the staple of material into a wick ready to be spun. In the carding assortment in particular, the fibers are progressively untangled and oriented and are reduced step by step into a veil of parallelized fibers which is transformed into a wick.

The carding assortment has a plurality of cards placed in series comprising in the minimum configuration a front end, a breaking card which deposits the web in the layer to form a mattress, a cross card on which the previously created mattress is arranged transversely and processed to mix and uniform the distribution of the fibers along the entire height of the traverse card, and a continuous card followed by a divider that divides the outgoing web into many strips which are compacted by special rubbers so as to form the wick which is then wound on spindles.

The wick wound on the spindles is fed to the spinning machine to be stretched until a tough and homogeneous yarn having the desired count is obtained.

A continuous ring spinning machine or an intermittent spinning machine can be used for spinning.

The same production method now exemplified can be employed by replacing cashmere fibers with silk fibers. In this case, silk fibers are used having an average length between 55 mm and 65 mm. The silk fibers are treated with the same ensimage bath, in which water is however present in 5% vol, and are mixed in the same proportion with the same water-soluble fiber.

The timing of the dissolution of the water-soluble fiber depends, as mentioned, on the final destination of the yarn.

In any case, the elimination of the water-soluble fibers of Kuralon K-II WN7 <TM> requires a purge in water at pH <7 and a temperature between 85 ° C-95 ° C for about 30 minutes.

The natural fibers that can be used are preferably cashmere, silk and vicunia individually or blended between at least two of them.

The use of silk fibers that may have medium-length fibers mixed with other natural fibers having a shorter average length may be convenient to give the material the required susceptibility to be combed.

EXAMPLE

Material composition: 30% Silk and 70% PVA

Title before dissolution: 1 / 28Nm

Title after dissolution: 1 / 90Nm

Description of the Production Process:

The silk raw material is combed in order to parallelize the fibers and clean the ribbon of fibers which is then opened by the wolf card without changing the length of the fibers themselves.

The product is subjected to a bath composed of Ricinfil <TM> oil, Fibramix <TM> antistatic and water to make it workable in the machine. A mixture is prepared obtained by mixing the aforementioned silk with the water-soluble Kuralon fibers. This is fed into an assortment of carding machines to transform it into a carding belt that will be reopened by the lupo carding machine so as to intimately mix the fibers without changing their length.

The mixture thus obtained is processed in an assortment to produce wicks which pass to the spinning machine that produces the yarn in the 1/28 count. The single yarn with PVA is therefore woven with the following characteristics:

The warp has 3200 bottom threads;

The height of the frame is 160cm with 20 threads per cm.

Passing takes place in a heddle loom, the weave is the canvas. The strokes per centimeter based on the number of threads are 19.

In this way a piece is obtained whose weight is 115gr / m, subsequently the water-soluble fibers are dissolved so as to reach a weight of 35gr / m.

The resulting article is finished and packaged.

The production method of a garment thus conceived is susceptible of numerous modifications and variations, all of which fall within the scope of the inventive concept; furthermore, all the details can be replaced by technically equivalent elements.

In practice, the materials used, as well as the dimensions, may be any according to the requirements and the state of the art.

In particular, as mentioned, the natural fibers used can be pure or blended with other natural and / or artificial and / or synthetic fibers.

Claims (15)

CLAIMS 1. Production method of a garment characterized by the fact of including the following steps: providing a staple fiber base material comprising at least natural fibers of an average length at least sufficient to be combed in a combing machine; -performing in said combing machine a combing of said base material in order to parallelize the fibers until forming a combed ribbon; -perform the opening of the fibers of said combed belt in a wolf carding machine without affecting the length of the fibers; - perform the ensiming of the open fibers; -mixing said open fibers with water-soluble fibers in a temperature range between 50 ° C and 95 ° C; - processing the mixture of fibers in a carding machine so as to form a carded sliver; - perform the opening of the fibers of said carded belt in a wolf carding machine without affecting the length of the fibers; - processing the open fibers in a carding assortment to form wicks; -processing the wicks in a spinning machine to form a yarn; - dissolving the water-soluble fibers present in the yarn and forming the garment with the yarn or vice versa forming the garment and dissolving the water-soluble fibers present in the yarn. 2. Method for producing a garment according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said wicks are processed in said spinning machine until a yarn is obtained which, after the dissolution of the water-soluble fibers, has a count between 1 / 60,000 Nm and 1 / 500,000 Nm. 3. Method for producing a garment according to any preceding claim, characterized in that said natural fibers comprise cashmere and / or silk and / or vicunia. 4. Method for producing a garment according to any preceding claim, characterized in that said natural fibers have an average length of not less than 40 mm and preferably between 40 mm and 70 mm. 5. Method for producing a garment according to any preceding claim, characterized by the fact that after the enzyme and before the mixing said fibers are stored for 2 - 4 days at ambient temperature and controlled relative humidity between 55% and 65 %. 6. Method for producing a garment according to any preceding claim, characterized in that said water-soluble fibers are polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibers. 7. Method for producing a garment according to any preceding claim, characterized in that said mixture has a percentage by weight of water-soluble fibers comprised between 50% and 95%. 8. Method for producing a garment according to any preceding claim, characterized in that said blend has a percentage by weight of cashmere or silk fibers equal to 30% and a percentage by weight of water-soluble fibers equal to 70%. 9. Production method of a garment according to claim 8, characterized in that said cashmere fibers have an average length of between 46 mm and 50 mm. 10. Production method of a garment according to claim 8, characterized in that said silk fibers have an average length comprised between 55 mm and 65 mm. 11. Production method of an article of clothing according to any one of claims from 8 to 10, characterized in that said water-soluble fibers are PVA fibers having an average length between 55 mm and 65 mm. 12. Method for producing a garment according to any preceding claim, characterized in that said yarn is first woven and then said water-soluble fiber is dissolved from said woven yarn. 13. Method for producing a garment according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that said yarn is combined and twisted, said water-soluble fiber is dissolved from said yarn and subsequently said yarn is knitted. 14. Production method of a garment characterized by the fact of including the following steps: providing a staple fiber base material comprising at least natural fibers of an average length at least sufficient to be combed in a combing machine; -mixing said material with water-soluble fibers in a temperature range between 50 ° C and 95 ° C; - perform the ensimage of said mixture of fibers; -performing in said combing machine a combing of said mixture of fibers to parallelize the fibers until forming a combed ribbon; -perform the opening of the fibers of said combed belt in a wolf carding machine without affecting the length of the fibers; - processing the mixture of fibers in a carding machine so as to form a carded sliver; - perform the opening of the fibers of said carded belt in a wolf carding machine without affecting the length of the fibers; - processing the open fibers in a carding assortment to form wicks; -processing the wicks in a spinning machine to form a yarn; - dissolving the water-soluble fibers present in the yarn and forming the garment with the yarn or vice versa forming the garment and dissolving the water-soluble fibers present in the yarn. 15. Garment obtained from a process conforming to any previous claim.