GB662958A - A method of, and a device for use in, tailoring garments - Google Patents

Abstract

662,958. Drafting garment patterns. BOOTH METHODS CORPORATION, H. March 5, 1949 [March 10, 1948], No. 6072/49. Class 141. A method of proportioning garments such as coats comprises establishing a horizontal reference plane on a standard garment pattern, Fig. 3, from a standard " shoulder," " strap " or " scye" measurement, transferring the reference plane to the person, taking the actual length of the other two measurements and comparing them with the standard measurements to obtain a suitable pattern. From these actual measurements the position of the shoulder edges of the back and front panels may be altered, by an inclination to, and/or a parallel displacement from, the normal position 14 to fit people whose shoulders are more or less sloping than the average or whose carriage is more stooping or more erect. Each correction should not exceed one inch so that the style of the garment is retained. Apparatus for carrying out the above method comprises a tape having columns of measurements to indicate standard garment sizes, standard shoulder measurements, " strap " and "scye" measurements, a casing with at least four windows through which corresponding measurements can be read, means for mounting the tape within the casing, a main slide for movement along the "strap" and "scye" scales and two auxiliary slides mounted for lengthwise movement on the main slide along the " strap " and "scye" scales respectively. As shown in Fig. 8, the tape 31 is endless and preferably transparent and is supported, for view through the windows in the front wall 96 of the casing 80 by rollers 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62 and additional upper rollers adjacent the sprocket wheels 72, 76. The rollers 60, 61, 62 engage slots 70 so that their weight keeps the tape taut. Sprocket wheels 72, 76, secured to the shafts of the upper rollers; 82, 86 secured to a shaft journalled in the casing 80; and 90 secured to a shaft journalled in a horizontal casing 88 and provided with a handle 92; together with sprocket chains 74, 84, 94, enable the tape to be moved. A large window 108 in the front wall 96, providing a translucent writing surface, is illuminated by a fluorescent tube 110 and reflector 112 and similar means 114, 116 illuminate the windows through which the tape measurements can be read. A fluorescent tube 122 illuminates the horizontal casing 88. The main slide 126, Fig. 10, has a transparent upper portion 127 and extends between the centres of the windows 104, 106. It is provided with a pointer 128 having a pin 140 engageable with a plurality of recesses 138 in the front wall 96 of the casing corresponding to the graduations 146 of a scale which indicates the posture of the wearer. Stops 142, 144 limit the movement of the slide 126. A transparent auxiliary slide 148, positioned at the left hand side of the main slide 126 has a pointer 152 moving between stops 156, 158 over a scale indicating the slope of the shoulder edge of the front panel. A similar slide 160 at the right hand side has a pointer 164 moving over a scale indicating the slope of the shoulder edge of the back panel.