GB2532291A - Modified raglan sleeve design for jacket&trousers suits, costumes and ensembles - Google Patents

Abstract

A modified raglan sleeve 1 has a seam 2 which follows the anatomy of the shoulder. The sleeve has an extension across the shoulder to the neckline cut from one piece of material. The modification avoids the use of shoulder pads in the finished garment, and a bulge in the material when the arms are lifted.

Description

PROVISIONAL PATENT APPLICATION

MODIFIED RAGLAN SLEEVE DESIGN FOR JACKET&TROUSERS SUITS,

COSTUMES AND ENSEMBLES

BACKGROUND: SET OF CLOTHES OF THE SAME MATERIAL WORN IN

SPECIFIC SITUATIONS

Field of the Invention:

* The present design follows the prior art defined as "raglan sleeves" and proposes a modification of the cut between the body of the jacket and the sleeves to make it more appropriate for business suits for adults or school uniforms for children and teenagers.

Description of the Related Art:

* The current design for sets of jackets and trousers commonly known as suits, ensembles or costumes. The design of suits, ensembles or costumes almost always involves the insertion of shoulder pads at the top of the shoulder underneath the garment and a simple circular cut where the body of the jacket and the sleeve are sawn. The other know design alternative is to use prior patent art known as Raglan sleeve for the manufacture of a jacket or a garment. However the Raglan sleeve design is not entirely perceived and therefore used as appropriate for business type of suits or school uniforms.

SUMMARY

* Within the context of the related art, the proposed design aims at providing an alternative to remove the need and the many drawbacks, factitious appearances and inconveniences caused by the usage of shoulder pads. The second objective is to propose a design that prevents from causing a large bulge on the shoulder when the arm is lifter upwards. The design of the cut where the body of the jacket and the sleeve are sawn follows better the shape of the shoulder and anatomy of the body better than when using shoulder pads.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

* Figure 1: illustrates with a schematic and using the dotted line 2 the alternative cut and assembly line between the sleeve and shoulder piece (1) and the body of the jacket (4) for the garment.

* Figure 2: illustrates through a sketch the approximate geometrical locus or perimeter that defines the cut or interface where the two piece of cloth constituting the garment are to be sawn in the proposed design.

* Figure 3: illustrates and focus more on the sleeve and shoulder cloth/fabric ( I) through a drawing on a mannequin (3) * Figure 4: is an approximate illustration of the sleeve&shoulder fabric or cloth (1) and the sewing lines (2) with the rest of the jacket body (4). (drawing by Emmanuel Rimorini) * Figure 5: is one illustrative example of the presented proposed design that would avoid the use of shoulder pads. (drawing by Emmanuel Rimorini) * Figure 6: shows example of some possible alternative sewing lines in front of the shoulder (x and y) and just behind the shoulder (a, b and c) other than the one presented in Figure 4 and in Figure 5. (drawing by Emmanuel Rimorini) * Figure 7: is a drawing by Emmanuel Rimorini to illustrate or anticipate how would look a suit, costume, ensemble adopting the present proposed improvement that avoids the current usage of shoulder pads and follows more closely the anatomy of the shoulder articulation.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

* In the preferred embodiment of this invention, the modified design follows principles described by the prior art invented by Richard E. Blood in February 1937, known as Raglan sleeve, at the exception of the geometrical definition for cutline or joining edges between the portion of cloth or fabric covering shoulder and arm, and the portion of cloth or fabric covering the body. The principal objectives of this embodiment are to avoid the use of (factitious looking) shoulder pads, to extend the usage of Raglan sleeves to business suits, costumes, ensembles, school uniforms both for men and women and to dynamically follow the anatomy during arm motions.

* In the preferred embodiment, instead of a straight line, the new proposed edges first follows a line from the neck toward the middle of the shoulder center of rotation anatomically located around the ball-and-socket joint of the shoulder. Then the edge follows an arc circle in front of the deltoid muscles and then goes below the arm pit. A schematic of the edge or sewing line (2) between the sleeve and shoulder fabric (1) and the jacket body (4) for the proposed modified is shown on Figure 1. In Figure 2 is shown one canonic illustrative example of the edge location with respect to the human anatomy.

* Figure 3 shows how in the current modified design a single piece of fabric can be used to manufacture the sleeve and shoulder (1) part of the garment, where the edge (2) will be located with respect to a mannequin body (3). When assembled to the body of the jacket (4) as shown in Figure 4, the top edges along the shoulder (2) are allowed to move apart and away from each other therefore preventing large bulge on the top of the shoulder as seen with suits containing shoulder pads when the arm is lifted upward.

* One of the objective of this modified design and preferred embodiment is that the jacket retain a design and look appropriate for casual business suits, ensemble, costumes and school uniforms. It is a characteristic that the prior arts and all Raglan sleeves prior inventions do not exhibit. Figure 5 is a drawing illustrating through three different viewpoints how a jacket would look when using the proposed embodiment. Figure 7 is an attempt to illustrate and anticipate how the new proposed design would look after final assembly and on a subject.

* Because of the large population of people, the differences between each individuals, the availability of numerous material to manufacture jackets for costumes, ensembles, uniforms or suits, the shoulder section of the garment can be chosen to adapt slightly to the different parameters to accommodate. Figure 6 shows that the top section of the edge above the shoulder can be convergent to the neck, divergent from the neck or simply straight. At the front of the body the edge can be adapted to he close to line x or to line y or anywhere around. At the back of the shoulder the edge can be adapted to be close to line a or line b or line c or anywhere around. The edge at the back of the shoulder not being necessarily subject to the line at the front of the shoulder. The present design also allows, if the manufacturer deems appropriate, for the garment to be of two different colors: one for the sleeve and shoulder part of the garment, the other for the body of the jacket.

* For a given choice of fabric or material, when the arms are lifted up, the design will capture and damp the formation of creases and folds by the correct selection or expertise in choosing the shape of the cutline and edges shown in Figure 6. Some heavy fabrics tend to generate large and sparse folds where the lighter clothing materials tend to generate small and more frequent creases. The same way that a creek, a dam or a levee absorbs a certain type of waves, the proposed design improvement has also the functional ability to absorb or dissipate creases or folds from a fabric or material_ The narrower passage on top of the shoulder also feature a degree of freedom in the colatitude direction: the two curved tongues' on each side of the shoulder constituting the body of the jacket may naturally expand away from each other when the arm is lifted up.

* The seizing of the garment to match the anatomy of a person may he mapped directly from the already known shirt size of the person following simple rules. For practicality, all dimensions defining the cuts, the length, the width of each elements composing the garment following the proposed design may be mapped or scaled according or proportionally to the standard shirt dimensions already in use in the fashion and retail industry.