GB2482232A

GB2482232A - Cosmetic composition containing a particular water and use as a depigmenting or anti-ageing agent

Info

Publication number: GB2482232A
Application number: GB201112187A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Robin Kurfurst; Kristell Lazou; Eric Perrier
Original assignee: LVMH Recherche GIE
Current assignee: LVMH Recherche GIE
Priority date: 2010-07-21
Filing date: 2011-07-15
Publication date: 2012-01-25
Anticipated expiration: 2031-07-15
Also published as: GB201112187D0; GB2482232B; DE102011052006A1; ITTO20110647A1

Abstract

A cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises as an active agent at least one water having a pH of between 7.6 and 10 and a total dissolved solids (TDS) concentration of between 10 and 250mg/l, in particular, Icelandic glacial water. Preferably the water comprises the concentrations calcium between 3-14mg/l; chloride between 2-16mg/l; magnesium between 0.8-5mg/l; potassium between 0.01-2mg/l; sodium between 2-14mg/l; bicarbonate between 0-50mg/l and sulphate between 1-5mg/l. Preferably the concentration by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition is from 10% to 99%. The formulation may be of use in preventing or delaying the appearance of the effects of intrinsic and/or extrinsic ageing of the skin; for preventing or reducing pigmentary spots on the skin, or the colouration of hyperpigmented areas of the skin in particular those consisting of various dyschromias of the skin, for example, contact dermatoses, drug induced photodermatoses, melasma, keratoses, for example senile or actinic keratoses, senile lentigo (age spots) or solar lentigo; for reducing the pigmentation of the periphery of depigmented areas, in particular, induced by leucoderma such as vitiligo; for improving the uniformity of skin colouration; or for lightening the complexion of the skin.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing a particular water, and use thereof as a depigmenting or anti-ageing agent The subject of the present invention s a cosmetic or dermatological dermis which results from the enzymatic activity of metalloproteinases (MMPs), in particular metalloproteinase-1 (MM P-i).

Concomitantly, intrinsic or chronological ageing is the consequence of composition containing same, said agent and said composition being intended for preventing or delaying the appearance of the signs of extrinsic and/or intrinsic aciein of the skin, or far slowing down or reciticina the effeetc therenf They have demonstrated that the water used according to the invention induces an increase in the expression of the product of the genes encoding HSP-70 and involucrin, and causes an inhibition of the expression of the I 11__ -a total dissolved solids (TDS) concentration of between 10 and 250 mg/I, and preferably between 20 and 100 mg/I.

The concentration by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition is preferably from 10% to 99%, more preferably from 15% to 95%, and most preferably from 30% to 85%.

The concentration by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition is for example from 10% to 99%, from 15% to 95%, from 40% to 85% or from at 60% to 80% It is possible to define a water according to various parameters resulting from a physicochemical analysis, and in particular according to: -its total dissolved solids (TDS) concentration, expressed in mg/I, with the following classification:

Table 1

Super low ____ J0-50 mg/i _______ Low j50-250 mg/I Medium 250-800 mg/I High ________ ____ 800-1500_mg/I Very high > 1500 mg/I -its pH, with the following classification:

Table 2

Acidic pH 5-61 ral7-73_ Slightly alkaline ____ pH3-78 kaline pH 7.8-10 Advantageously, the water of the invention comprises the following concentrations: -calcium (Ca2) between 3 and 14 mg/I, and preferably between 4 and 10 mg/I; -chloride (CI) between 2 and 16 mg/I, and preferably between 8 and 14 mg/I; -magnesium (Mg2) between 0.8 and 5 mg/I, and preferably between 0.8 and 3 mg/I; * potassium (K) between 0.01 and 2 mg/I, and preferably between 0.1 and 1 mg/I; -sodium (Nat) between 2 and 14 mg/I, and preferably between 8 and 13 mg/I; -bicarbonates (HCO3) between 0 and 50 mg/I, and preferably between 10 and 40 mg/I; -sulphates (SO42) between 1 and 8 mg/I, and preferably between 2 and 5 mg/I.

Preferably, the water of the invention has a pH of between 7.9 and 8.4, or a pH of between 8.2 and 8.8.

The water of the invention advantageously has a total dissolved solids (TDS) concentration of between 50 and 100 mg/I, and preferably between and 80 mg/I, more preferably between 55 and 75 mg/I.

Advantageously, the water of the invention is water originating from a particular spring.

The expression "water from a spring" is intended to mean a water derived from underground water, advantageously naturally suitable for human consumption. This water can be removed from deep down, for example by boring, or else at the surface, for example in the case of a resurgence.

According to a first preferred variant, the water of the invention is extracted from the Hlidarendi (also spelt "Hli8arendi") spring in the Ifus region, in Iceland, This spring is supplied by rainwater runoff and melting snow and ice, over volcanic ground.

This water is sold under the name Icelandic GIacial by the company Icelandic Water Holdings ehf, and distributed, for example, in France by International Breweries & Beers (168), Raimbeaucourt 59283 -France.

This water can in particular be characterized by the following composition: -calcium (Ca2) approximately 6.4 mg/I; -chlorine (Cl) approximately 13 mg/I; -magnesium (Mg2) approximately 2.4 mg/I; -potassium (K) approximately 0.6 mg/I; -sodium (Nat) approximately 12 mg/I; -bicarbonates (HC03) approximately 33 mg/I; -sulphates (SO42) approximately 3.4 mg/I; -TDS approximately 62 mg/I; and has a pH of approximately 8.4, According to a second preferred variant, the water of the invention is extracted from a spring located at Heimörk, in Iceland.

This water is sold under the name Iceland Spring' by the company Icelandic Spring Inc., USA.

This water can in particular be characterized by the following corn position: -calcium (Ca2) approximately 4.6 mg/I; -chlorine (CF) approximately 11.0 mg/I; -magnesium (Mg2) approximately 0.9 mg/I; -potassium (K) approximately 0.5 mg/I; -sodium (Na) approximately 12 mg/I; -sulphates (SO42) approximately 2.3 mg/I; -TDS approximately 48 mg/I; and has a pH of approximately 8.7.

According to a third variant, the water of the invention is extracted from a spring located at Monte Zuccone in the Parma Appenines, Emilia-Romagna, Italy.

This water is sold under the name Ducale® by the company Norda.

This water can in particular be characterized by the following composition: -calcium (Ca2) approximately 12.5 mg/I; -chlorine (Cl) approximately 3.8 mg/I; -magnesium (Mg2) approximately 1.3 mg/I; -potassium (K) approximately 0.4 mg/I; -sodium (Na) approximately 3 mg/I; -sutphates (SO42) approximately 6.9 mg/I; -TDS approximately 56 mg/I; and has a pH of approximately 8.3.

The values given here are average values, the composition of the water being stable over time, Variations relative to this average value, in particular linked to the method of analysis, can however be observed.

depigmentng, lightening or bleaching agent in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

According to a second subject, the present invention relates to a c cm-k rr According to a second aspect, the composition aims to depigment the skin and keratin fibres, in particular to lighten the complexion or to improve the uniformity of the skin roloratinn. or else to rnrrert or retli ire ninmentni ckin particular those consisting of various dyschromias of the skin, in particular contact dermatoses, druginduced photodermatoses, melasma, keratoses, for examole senile or ctinic keratocec cpnil lnticin (& cnntc' or nLr pntinr' method and also to the dermatologica! treatment method according to the invention.

For any aspect of the invention, the term "effective amount" is intended to mean an amount which is at lact PntJaI tn th amrinf nr'rv few normal human melanocytes. In particular, Figure 3 relates to the effect of the Iceland water on the level of transcripts of the tyrosinase gene in normal human melanocytes treated for 24 hours.

EXAMPLE 1-EFFECT OF TREATMENT WITH A WATER OF THE

INVENTION ON THE EXPRESSION OF GENES INVOLVED IN CELL AND

TISSUE PROTECTION OF THE EPIDERMIS.

The objective of this study was to evaluate the effect of a water of the invention on the expression of the genes encoding HSP-70 and involucrin.

1. Cell culture The normal human keratinocytes (NHKs) used were derived from a Caucasian adult donor, The NHKs were seeded into 6-well plates in a proportion of 2.5 x io cells/well in medium 1. Three wells of NHKs were seeded per culture condition, this being for a treatment of 8 hours.

2. Treatment 13 At 80% confluence, the cells were optionally treated with 15% of Iceland water in medium 1 below: Supplier Epilife Fisher Supplements Fisher After 8 hours of treatment, the cells were recovered in order to extract the total RNAs therefrom.

3. PCR Taqman Low Density Array 23 3.1 Obtaining of total RNAs The cell culture medium was removed, and 250 p1 of RLT lysis buffer (supplied in the Nucleospin RNA trace kit) were added. The cells were scraped using a Cell Scraper and then the cell lysate was recovered in a 1.2 ml deepwell (supplied in the kit). The total RNAS were extracted using an Epimotion 5075 (Eppendorf with the Nucleospin RNA trace kit (Macherey Nagel).

The total RNA solutions obtained were assayed and their quality was verified, using the Bioanalyseur 2100 (Agilent Technologies). This instrument was connected to a computer which had the specific result analysis software (2100 expert software). The technique required a 12-well microplate (RNA 6000 33 NanoChips) and a kit of reagents (RNA 6000 Nano Reagents & Supplies), specific for assaying eukaryotic total RNAs.

3.2 Synthesis of complementary DNAs The reverse transcription (RT) kit used was the High Capacity cDNA Reverse Transcription Kit (Appfled Biosystems). 100 ng of total RNAs were diluted in water to give a final volume of 50 p1. They were then incubated for 10 minutes at 25°C and then for 2 hours at 37°C with 50 p1 of 2X reaction mixture from the high capacity reverse transcription kit, prepared beforehand as indicated below, Rea get its volume RTbuffer lOp! dNTP buffer 4 p1 Random primer 10 p1 RNAse out 1 p1

RT

-/20 20p1 3.3 PCR Taman Low Density Array p1 of each RT were sampled and mixed with 50 p1 de "Taqman Gene Expression master mix". After homogenization, the 100 p1 were deposited on the microfluidic cards, and the latter were centrifuged and then sealed.

Control genes were used to standardize the results. The PCR was carried out according to the protocol supplied by Applied Biosystems, in the ABI Prism 7900HT Sequence detection system apparatus. The steps of the qPCR were 2 mm at 50°C, 10 mm at 94.5°C then 30 s at 97°C and 1 mm at 59.7°C, for 40 cycles.

4. Analysis of the results In the RT-PCR TLDA method, the quantification is carried out using the \Ct comparative method. This method determines the number of cycles (Ct) of each gene of the card using the RQ Manager software which takes into account the background noise for each gene. This number of cycles (Ct) was standardized relative to the Ct of a GAPDH housekeeping gene invariant in the cells.

The results are presented in Figure 1.

The increase (x2.1) in expression of the genes encoding HSP 70, observed after treatment with a water of the invention, Icelandic Glacial® water, conferred on the keratinocytes a better resistance to stresses and to external attacks. Consequently, the keratinocytes may secrete less cytokines and chemokines, which are pro-inflammatory factors involved in extraceUular matrix degradation and the stimulation of melanogenesis. Likewise, the stimulation (xl.8) observed after treatment with a water of the invention, Icelandic Glacial® water, of the expression product of the gene encoding involucrin, which is a key factor in keratinocyte differentiation, allows the formation of an epidermal barrier which is protective with respect to external attacks.

EXAMPLE 2-EFFECT OF TREATMENT WITH A WATER OF THE

INVENTION ON THE EXPRESSION OF GENES INVOLVED IN CELL AND

TISSUE PROTECTION OF THE DERMIS.

The purpose of this study was to study the biological activity of Icelandic Glacial® water on a culture of normal human fibroblasts (NHFs) cultured in monolayer. As in Example 1, the study was carried out by means of the TLDA technology, TLDA standing for Taqman Low Density Array. The modulation of the expression of a panel of genes, encoding proteins specific for fibroblast-related biological pathways, in response to a treatment for a period of 24 h with Icelandic Glacial® water, was studied.

Metalloproteinases 1 and 3 (MMP-1 and MMP-3) belong to the same proteolytic cascade and act in concert in the degradation of collagens and more particularly collagens 1 and 3. They are particularly induced during ageing of the skin and in response to UV exposures. It is therefore strategic to want to inhibit expression, so as to control the degradation of the derman extracellular matrix.

1. Materials and methods Cell culture The normal human fibroblasts (NI-IFs) used were derived from a Caucasian adult donor, The cells were seeded into 6-well plates in a proportion of 2.5 x cells/well in medium I having the composition below: Medium 1 Supplier F/na! concentration FC'S Slowest 10% DMEM Fisher qs Three wells of NHFs were seeded per culture condition.

24 hours before the treatment, at confluence, the cells were depleted of foetal calf serum (medium 2 having the composition below): MedIum 2 Supplier DMEM fisher 2. Treatment After 24 hours of culture without foetal calf serum, the cells were optionally treated with 15% of Icelandic Glacial® water in medium 2. After 8 and 24 hours of treatment, the cells were recovered in order to extract the total RNAs therefrom.

3. PCR Taqman Low Density Array The method was in accordance with that of Example 1.

4. Results After 24 hours of treatment, the NHFs were recovered in order to extract the total RNAs therefrom.

The results obtained demonstrate that the treatment of the NHFs with Icelandic Glacial® water at 15% by weight makes it possible to significantly decrease (respectively by 44% and 40%) the expression of MMP-1 and of MMP-3 after 24 hours of treatment (Fig. 2).

The effect of the Icelandic Glacial® water on the expression of these two metalloproteinases is particularly advantageous for preventing or slowing down ageing of the skin, by acting on ECM degradation.

EXAMPLE 3 -EFFECT OF TREATMENT WITH WATERS OF DIFFERENT COMPOSITION, INCLUDING A WATER OF THE INVENTION, ON ThE EXPRESSION OF GENES INVOLVED IN MELANOGENESIS AND SKIN PIGMENTATION DEFECTS.

The objective of this study was to evaluate, on normal human melanocytes (NHMs), by real-time quantitative RT-PCR (qRT-PCR), the effect of an active agent, Icelandic Glacial water, on the expression of the genes encoding tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1) or tyrosinase.

The effect of this active agent was optionally compared, in the tests below, with waters not in accordance with the invention, Cell culture Normal human melanocytes (NHMs) from a donor 1 were placed in culture and seeded into 6-well plates in a proportion of 2.5 x cells/well in medium 3 (composition below). Three wells were seeded per culture condition; three nontreated control wells and three wells treated for a treatment time of 24 hours.

Composition of medium 1: Supplier Final concentration Medium E-199 with glutamax Fisher Foetal ca/f serum Abcys 10% Composition of medium 2: Supplier Final concentration KSFM Fisher Pituitaty extracts Fisher 50 pg/mI of KSFM ompositfon of medium 3: Supplier Final concentration Medium 2 90% Medium 1 10% b-Fibroblast Growth Factor fisher 10 ng/ml Trfrn jgçyles 48 hours after the seeding, the cells were treated by bringing into contact with a water of the invention or a water having a composition different from Icelandic Glacial® water (treatment conditions specified in paragraphs 1,1 to 1,3), diluted in medium 3, filtered through a 0.22 pm filter. A nontreated control was also prepared.

After 24 hours of treatment, the cells were recovered in order to extract the total RNAs therefrom.

Obtaining of total RNAs using the Rneasy kit (Qiagfl The cell culture medium was removed, and 350 p1 of RLT lysis buffer (supplied in the kit) were added. The cells were scraped using a cell scraper and the cell lysate was homogenized using a syringe.

The total RNA5 were extracted according to the supplier's protocol.

The total RNA solutions thus obtained were assayed. The technique required a 12-well microplate (RNA 6000 NanoChips) and a kit of reagents (RNA 6000 Nano Reagents & Supplies) specific for the assaying of eukaryotic total RNA5, Synthesis of complementary DNA5 The reverse transcription (RT) kit used is the "High Capacity cDNA iS Reverse Transcription Kit, 1000 Reactions" (Applied Biosystems), used according to the supplier's protocol. 100 ng of total RNAs, after DNAse, were diluted in water to give a final volume of 25 p1. They were then incubated for 10 minutes at 25°C and then for 2 hours at 37°C with 25 p1 of 2X reaction mixture from the High capacity cDNA archive kit, prepared beforehand as indicated below.

Reagents Volume RTbuffer lOp! Q'NTP buffer 4p/ Random primer 10 pl RNAse out 1 p1 RT 5JJ1 1-120 20p1 Real-quantitativeRT-PCR Reagents used for the ana/ysfc Supplier Kit RNeasy Qiagen RNAse out Invitrogen Taqman Fast Universal master mix Applied TaqMan,82-ni expression Applied Taqman TRP-1 expression Applied Taqman Tyrosinase expression Applied The effect of the treatments was evaluated by real-time quantitative PCR (qRT-PCR) with the 7900HT fast 96-well block from Applied Biosystems.

rparat/on of the react/on m/ture for] react/on: TaqMan Fast un/versa! PCR master mix (2x) 10 p1 raqMan gene express/on assay 1 p1 1-120 4iI The 15 p1 of the mixture were placed in the wells of a 96-well plate specially designed for the 7900HT instrument, and 5 p1 of water (for the blank) or 5 p1 of successive dilutions of cDNA (for the range) or 5 p1 of samples diluted to 1/50 in purified water, irrespective of the gene, were added to the corresponding wells.

Analysis of the results For each sample, the number of cycles at which the signal appears was determined using the SDS 2.3 software (Applied Biosystems), and by virtue of the calibration line established with the calibration range, the concentration in terms of number of copies of transcript could thus be calculated.

For the same assay, the expression levels of the TRP-1 and tyrosinase transcripts obtained were standardized relative to the value obtained for the f32-m gene. This gene, the expression of which is constitutive and invariant, made it possible to be free of any variation in amounts between assays, and in particular those due to different reverse transcription efficiencies.

Statistical analysis Statistically significant transcriptional activity variations were evaluated by applying the Student's test.

Each condition was carried out in triplicate (3 nontreated controls and 3 treated), The Fischer test was first of all applied by comparing the two data matrices. When the Fischer test was greater than 0.05, then the variance for the Student's test was equal to 2. When the Fischer test was less than 0.05, then the variance was equal to 3.

The transcriptional variations retained were those which had a Student's test of less than 0.05. The data presented in the results section are the ratios of the amounts obtained in the treated samples versus the nontreated control samples, the whole related back to the invariant 32-microglobulin (2-m) gene.

RESULTS

Li -Effect of treatment with a concentration range of Iceland water (water of the invention) on the expression of the tyrosinase gene in NHMs after 24 hours of treatment The effect of the Iceland water (water of the invention) was compared with that produced by a highly purified and deionized water sold under the name Milli-Q (supplier Millipore).

Normal human melanocytes, from a donor 1, seeded into 6-well plates were treated, at confluence, in triplicate, with 5 or 15% of Iceland water or of Milli-Q water for 24 hours. A nontreated control was also prepared.

The level of transcripts encoding the gene encoding tyrosinase was measured for a sample and related back to the level of transcripts encoding the invariant f2-m gene.

The results obtained were processed in the form of histograms.

Figure 3 shows a decrease in the level of transcripts of the gene encoding tyrosinase of 16% after 24 hours of treatment with the Iceland water.

Figure 4 shows that the Milli-Q® water has no effect on tyrosinase gene expression.

Unlike the Milli-Q water, a water of the invention makes it possible to significantly inhibit the expression of the gene encoding tyrosinase, which is a key enzyme in melanogenesis and in skin pigmentation.

1,2 -Effect of treatment with a water of the invention on the expression of the gene encoding TRP-1 in NHMs after 24 hours of treatment Normal human melanocytes, derived from a donor 2, seeded into 6-well plates, were treated, at confluence, in triplicate, with 15% of Iceland water for 24 hours, A nontreated control was also prepared. The level of transcripts encoding the TRP-1 gene was measured for a sample and related back to the level of transcripts encoding the invariant 132-m gene.

The results obtained are processed in the form of histograms.

Figure 5 shows a decrease in the level of transcripts of the TRP-1 gene of 47. 10% after 24 hours of treatment with the Iceland water.

A water of the invention makes it possible to significantly inhibit the expression of the gene encoding TRP-1 involved in melanogenesis and in skin pigmentation.

1.3 Effect of treatment in normal human melanocytes with a water of the invention at 15% on the exvession of the gene encoding tyrosinase after 24 hours of treatment Normal human melanocytes derived from a donor 2, seeded into 6-well plates, were treated at confluence, in triplicate, with 15% of Iceland water for 24 hours. A nontreated control was also prepared.

The level of transcripts encoding the tyrosinase gene was measured for a sample and related back to the levels of transcripts encoding the invariant 132-m gene.

The results obtained were processed in the form of histograms.

Figure 6 shows a decrease in the level of transcripts of the gene encoding tyrosinase of 37.60% after 24 hours of treatment with the Iceland water, 1.4 -Compared effects of treatment with a water of the invention and a mineral water on the expression of the tvrosinase gene in NHMs after 24 hours of treatment The effect produced by the Iceland water (water of the invention) was compared with that produced by a mineral water sold under the name %Evian® water", and a very pure glacier water, the characteristics of which (composition, pH, TDS) are different from those of the water of the invention.

Table 3 below gives the respective characteristics of the Icelandic Glacial® water (water of the invention) and of the Evian® water which is not in accordance with the invention (data obtained on the websites of the manufacturers, addresses below).

Table 3

Jilandic Glacial ISBRE EVIAN® ] (Concentrations wwwJceIand/cg/ac//. corn wwwJstrecorn wwwevfancorn expressed in /) treatment for 24 hours with the Iceland water leads to a significant decrease in the expression of the genes encoding TRP-1 and tyrosinase, contrary to the effects noted for waters of which the characteristics are not in accordance with those of the invention.

Thus, a water of the invention, particularly the Icelandic Glacial® water, can be used as a skin-depigmenting, -bleaching or -lightening active agent, in a cosmetic composition.

EXAMPLE 4 -COSMETIC FORMULATIONS ACCORDING TO THE

INVENTION

Compositions were prepared according to the formulae below, in which the percentages are expressed by weight relative to the final composition, and the name of the ingredients corresponds to their chemical name, their brand name or their INCI name.

4.1 -Anti-acieing serum An anti-ageing serum was prepared according to the formula below.

% by weight Glycerol 5 Butylene glycol 3 Pentylene glycol 3 Poiyglycerol-3 2.5 Methyl gluceth-20 1.8 Decytoxazolidone 1 Phenoxyethanol 9 Talc 1 Lecithin 1 Carbomer 0.5 Sorbitol 3 Silica 0.2 Alumina 0.2 Sodium hydroxide 0.2 Algin 0.1 Polyvinyl alcohol < 0.1 Sodium hyaluronate < 0.1 Mallow (Ma/va sy/vestris) extract 0.7 Hydrolysed soya flour < 0.1 Adenosine Ascorbic acid Extract of Hibiscus escu/entus fruit <0.1 Icelandic Glacial® water 77 The lotion is a fluid aqueous composition comprising the water of the invention, which is applied to the face in the morning and evening. Its composition comprising the water of the invention allows a preventive effect with respect to the signs of appearance of ageing of the skin, in particular a loss of radiance of the complexion or of firmness of the skin.

4.2 -Light antiageing cream % by weight Caprylic/capric triglyceride 10 Glycerol 5 Cetearyl alcohol 4 Butylene glycol 3 Pentylene glycol 3 Mango (Mang/fera md/ca) butter 1.5 Glyceryl stearate 1.2 Decyloxazolidone 1 Steareth-21 1 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 Cetearyl glucoside 0.8 Hydrogenated cocoglycerides 0.7 Talc 0.6 Sorbitol 0.5 Dimethicone 0.5 Cetyl palmitate 0.3 Algin 0.2 Cocoglycerides 0.2 Silica 0.2 Carbomer 0.2 Alumina 0.2 Xanthan gum 0.1 Polyvinyl alcohol 0.1 Titanium dioxide 0.1 Tromethamine 0.1 Cellulose gum < 0.1 Sodium hyaluronate < 0.1 Mallow (Ma/va sy/vestris) extract 0.7 Hydrolysed soya flour <0.1 Adenosine <0.1 Ascorbic acid <0.1 Extract of Hibiscus escu/entus fruit <0.1 Iceland Spring® water 73 The cream, the continuous aqueous phase of which consists of the water of the invention, was applied to the face and the neckline in the morning, with emphasis particularly on the areas showing signs of ageing of the skin. It makes it possible to obtain a protective effect with respect to extrinsic and/or intrinsic ageing of the skin.

-Rich anti-aQeing cream An oil-in-water emulsion was prepared according to the following composition: % by weight Caprylic/capric triglyceride 15 Glycerol 5 Cetearyl alcohol 4 Butylene glycol 3 Pentylene glycol 3 Mango (Mang/fera md/ca) butter 2 Glyceryl stearate 2.2 Hydrogenated cocoglycerides 2 Dimethicone 1 Cetyl palmitate 0.6 Decyloxazolidone 1 Steareth-21 1 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 Cetearyl glucoside 0.8 Talc 0.6 Sorbitol 0.5 Cocoglycerides 0.5 Silica 0.2 Algin 03 Carbomer 0.2 S Xanthan gum 0.1 Polyvinyl alcohol 0.1 Tromethamine o.i.

Cellulose gum <o.i Sodium hyaluronate < Od Mallow (Ma/va sy/vestris) extract 0.7 Hydrolysed soya flour <0.1 Adenosine < 0.1 Ascorbic acid < 0.1 Extract of Hibiscus escu/entus fruit <0.1 Ducale® water 55 The rich cream, the aqueous phase of which comprises the water of the invention, was applied to the face in the evening. It makes it possible to obtain a preventive effect with respect to extrinsic and/or intrinsic ageing of the skin.

4.4 -Depigmenting facial day gel emulsion A gel emulsion was prepared according to the composition below.

% by weight Glycerol 5 Caprylic/capric/succinic triglycerides 5 Octyl methoxycinnamate 1 Dimethicone copolyol 0.5 Acrylates/C1030 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.5 Ascorbyl2 glucoside 2 Icelandic Glacial ® water 90 Preservatives, fragrance, dyes qs.

Some individuals subjected to more or less intense radiation from daylight, or even from the sun directly, wish to preserve a light complexion and to avoid the appearance of pigmented spots.

The use of the above gel emulsion makes it possible to achieve this objective. This composition is applied to the face generally in the morning It acts preventively or curatively on the pigmentation, which may or may not be even, of the face.

-Pigmentary spot-preventing SPF 30 protective fluid A protective fluid was prepared according to the composition below: % by weight Volatile pentacyclomethicone 49 Titanium dioxide 15 Octyl methoxycinnamate 7.5 Glycerol 5 Phenyf trimethicone 5 Dimethicone copolyol 3 Poly(methyl methacrylate) 2.5 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1 Icelandic Glacial ® water 15 Neutralizer, fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants qs.

The protective fluid is used for preventing the appearance of pigmentary spots, in individuals predisposed to this phenomenon, before exposure to an intense solar radiation. It should be noted that the presence of a high concentration of sunscreen makes it possible to compensate for the decrease in natural protection resulting from the reduction in the level of melanin.

4.6 -Depigmenting face cream A cream was prepared according to the composition below: % by weight Glyceryl stearate + Peg-100 stearate 5 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 4 Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 3 Glyceryl tricaprylate/caprate 3 Squalane 3 Glycerol 2 Beeswax 1 Cetearyl octanoate 1.5 Cetyl alcohol 1 Stearyl alcohol 1 Dimethicone 1 Xanthan gum 0.3 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.2 Potassium diglycerrhizinate 0.2 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 Salicylic acid 1 Sodium citrate 0.1 Iceland Spring® water 70 Neutralizer, fragrance, preservatives qs.

The use of this cream, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, makes it possible to treat the irregularities of the skin pigmentation, by reducing or eliminating senescence spots or actinic pigmentary spots. It makes the skin coloration uniform and lightens the complexion.

4.7 -Face lotion for lightening the complexion A lotion was prepared according to the composition below: % by weight Ethyl alcohol 30 PPG-3 myristyl ether 5 Glycerol 2 Carbomer 0.2 Butylene glycol 3 Polysorbate 20 0.2 Calcium D-pantetheine-S-sulphonate 0.2 Extract of Citrus uns/iiu 2 Ducale® water 56 Neutralizer, fragrance, preservatives qs.

This lotion for lightening the complexion is used after makeup removal and cleansing of the skin.

4.8 -Lightening face serum A serum was prepared according to the composition below: % by weight Icelandic Glacal water 88 Glycerol 2 Tetrasodium EDTA/citric acid/trisodium citrate qs desired pH Xanthan gum 0.25 Burnet extract 0.5 Ascorbyl-2 glucoside 2 Polymethylsilsesquioxane 2 Ethyl alcohol 2 Lactic acid 1 Polyacrylamide, C3.14 isoparaffin, laureth-7 0.5 Dimethicone copolyol 0.25 Fragrance, dye, preservative qs A drop of this highly concentrated serum composition is applied to the face generally before application of a face cream. This serum is customarily used as treatments of one to two weeks in order to obtain or maintain a lightening of the complexion.

4.9 -Hair lotion for lightening the head of hair A hair lotion was prepared according to the composition below: % by weight Iceland Spring water 46 Alcohol 50 Panthenyl ethyl ether 0.5 DL-alphatocopheryl acetate 0.2 Polysorbate 60 1 Liquorice extract 0.1 Fragrance 0.2 Glycerol 0.5 Dye qs This lotion is applied to the hair in the morning and the evening for several weeks, in order to obtain gradual lightening of the head of hair, 4J0 -Anti-spot cream gel for the hands A cream gel was prepared according to the composition below: % by weight Ducale® water 69 Caprylic/capric diglyceryl succinate 6 Octyl octanoate 2.5 Octyl methoxycinnamate 6 Ascorbyl-2-glucoside 2 is Phenyl trimethicone 2.5 Benzophenone-3 0.5 Sodium hyaluronate 0.05 Xanthan gum 0 Acrylates/C1O-30 alkyl acrylate copolymer 0.5 Poly(methyl methacrylate) 1 Glycerol 2 PEG 150 3 Neutralizers, dyes, fragrance, preservatives qs This cream gel should be applied directly to the senescence spots (senile lentigines) on the hands, in order to reduce the coloration thereof.

In the examples, "qs" means "quantity sufficient", i.e. the quantity sufficient to take the total to 100%.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, as an active agent, at least one water having: a pH of between 7.6 and 10, preferably between 7.8 and 8.8, and -a total dissolved solids (TDS) concentration of between 10 and 250 mg/I, preferably between 20 and 100 mg/I.
2. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to Claim 1, wherein the concentration by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition is from lO% to 99%.
3. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition is a topical composition.
4. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3 further comprising at least one other active agent or at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable excipient.
5. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the water comprises the following concentrations: -calcium (Ca2) between 3 and 14 mg/I, and preferably between 4 and 10 mg/I; -chloride (CI) between 2 and 16 mg/I, and preferably between 8 and 14 mg/I; -magnesium (Mg2) between 0.8 and 5 mg/I, and preferably between 0.8 and 3 mg/I; -potassium (K) between 0.01 and 2 mg/I, and preferably between 0.1 and 1 mg/I; -sodium (Na) between 2 and 14 mg/I, and preferably between 8 and 13 mg/I; -bicarbonates (HCO3) between 0 and 50 mg/I, and preferably between 10 and 40 mg/I; -sulphates (SO42) between 1 and 5 mg/I, and preferably between 2 and 5 mg/I.
6. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the water has a pH of between 8.2 and 8.8.
7. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the water has a total dissolved solids (TDS) concentration of between 40 and 80 mg/I.
8. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the water has the following composition: -calcium (Ca2) approximately 6.4 mg/I; -chlorine (CI) approximately 13 mg/I; -magnesium (Mg2) approximately 2.4 mg/I; potassium (K) approximately 0,6 mg/I; -sodium (Nat) approximately 12 mg/I; -bicarbonates (HCO3) approximately 33 mg/I; -sulphates (SO42) approximately 3.4 mg/I; wherein the water has a total dissolved solids (TDS) concentration of approximately 62 mg/I; and wherein the water has a pH of approximately 8.4.
9. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the water has the following composition: -calcium (Ca2) approximately 4.6 mg/I; -chlorine (Cl) approximately 11,0 mg/I; -magnesium (Mg2) approximately 0.9 mg/I; -potassium (K) approximately 0.5 mg/I; -sodium (Na) approximately 12 mg/I; -sulphates (S042) approximately 2.3 mg/I; wherein the water has a total dissolved solids (TDS) concentration of approximately 48 mg/I; and wherein the water has a pH of approximately 8.7.
10. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the water has the following composition: -calcium (Ca2) approximately 12.5 mg/I; -chlorine (Cl) approximately 3.8 mg/I; -magnesium (Mg2) approximately 1.3 mg/I; -potassium (K) approximately 0.4 mg/I; sodium (Nat) approximately 3 mg/I; sulphates (SO42) approximately 6.9 mg/I; wherein the water has a total dissolved solids (TDS) concentration of approximately 56 mg/I; and wherein the water has a pH of approximately 8.3.
11. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the concentration by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition is at least 15%, preferably at least 40%, preferably at least 60%, and more preferably at least 80%.
12. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein it is formulated in the form of a solution, serum, lotion, spray, milk, emulsion, preferably oil-in-water emulsion, or hydrogel.1,4-,-I... --- 23. Use of an effective amount of at least one water as defined in any one of Claims 1, and 5 to 10, for the preparation of a dermatological composition for depigmenting bleaching or lightening the skin and the keratin fibres, especially via topical application to at least one area of skin of an individual with hyperpigmentation, 24. Use of an effective amount of at feast one water as defined in any one of Claims 1, and 5 to 10, for the preparation of a dermatological composition for preventing or delaying the appearance of the signs of intrinsic and/or extrinsic ageing of the skin, or for slowing down the effects thereof, especially via topical application to at least one area of skin of an individual, especially being over 35 years old.