GB2362560A

GB2362560A - Bras and bra fitting

Info

Publication number: GB2362560A
Application number: GB0112706A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Susan Mcdonald
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2000-05-25
Filing date: 2001-05-25
Publication date: 2001-11-28
Anticipated expiration: 2021-05-25
Also published as: GB0012572D0; GB2362560B; GB0112706D0

Abstract

A bra comprises an under band 8 with a straight edge to which the lower edge of the cups 12 is attached and wings 9 with perpendicular edges 11 attached to the cups which have a generally square configuration. The parts may be releasably connected together and chosen from a range to enable a bra to be assembled which is the best fit for a wearer. A method of sizing is disclosed.

Description

2362560 BRAS AND BRA FITTING The present invention relates to bras

(brassibres) and to their sizing, manufacture and fitting.

Conventional bras typically comprise two cups supported by a cradle which extends around the sides, lower edges and between the cups. The part of the cradle between the cups is usually referred to as a bridge. The cradle and cups form the front of the bra. The cups are generally round, or at least have curved edges. Wings are fastened to opposite sides respectively of the cradle and the free end of each wing respectively includes cooperating components of a fastener to enable the garment to be fastened around a wearer's body. A shoulder strap extends from the top of each cup to the free end of each wing. Often, a bra includes wire to add rigidity. Wire is mainly employed to maintain the shape of the cups.

In an attempt to provide bras to fit different body sizes manufacturers produce bras in a number of different sizes. Conventional bra sizing is based upon a system called cross grading. Bra sizes are designated by a number and letter, for example 34B. The number is related to the underband length, that is the distance between the outer edges of the wings. In fact the actual underband length is usually ten inches shorter than the nominal size, i.e. a 34B garment usually has an underband length of 24 inches. The letter is related to cup size with size increasing through the alphabet.

Within the cross grading system the sizes of the various components of a bra are interrelated such that the front, essentially the cradle size, is equivalent for a number of different size garments. For example, the size of the front of bras of sizes 3413, 36A and 32C is the same. This is convenient for manufacturers but leads to problems in obtaining a satisfactory fit, as explained below.

Conventionally, bras are chosen or fitted by using a formula or table to relate actual body measurements to nominal bra size.

It is recognised that a correctly fitting bra is important, not only for reasons of comfort and appearance but also for health. Research indicates that an ill fitting bra may contribute to migraine, neck, shoulder and back pain, numbness of wrists and hands, indigestion, heartburn, skin irritation and symptoms of benign breast disease. However, conventional bra design, grading and fitting cannot in many cases provide an appropriately sized garment for a particular person whether or not the appropriate size is available. For some sizes an appropriate garment is not available, because it does not exist in the cross grading system.

A particular problem occurs with the cross grading system where larger cup sizes are concerned because, for a given underband length say a nominal 34, as the cup size is increased, say from a B to a C, room for the larger cup is provided by using a larger grade of cradle. A correspondingly smaller grade of wing is then employed so that underband length is maintained. As cup size increases, therefore, the front (cradle) of the bra is made to extend further around the wearer's body leading to an unnatural separation of the wearer's breasts. This is often compensated for by under wiring of the bra to urge the breasts towards the front of the wearer's body.

Wires, however, contribute to placing undesirable pressure on the breast.

This problem becomes particularly apparent for nominal cup sizes of DD and greater.

A further, and often related, problem arises with conventional bras due to the shape of the edges of the cups. As mentioned above these are usually curved. They are made this way in the belief that the edge of the cup will follow the shape of the breast root. However, the breast root is not of a defined shape, and varies from person to person. Forcing a breast into a cup with a curved edge often results in unnecessary pressure being exerted on the breast, especially if the cup is wired. The attempt to produce cups with a defined shape corresponding to the breast root tends to exaggerate the problems in obtaining a good fit caused by the cross grading system because even if the cup does correspond to the shape of the breast root it needs to be very precisely placed to fit correctly.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a bra, a range of bras and methods of fitting therefor that overcome or at least mitigate some of the disadvantages of conventional bras and bra fitting.

According to a first aspect of the present invention there is provided a bra comprising means for supporting two cups, said means comprising a first substantially straight edge to which part of the edge of each cup may be fastened and two further, spaced apart, facing substantially straight edges extending generally perpendicularly from the first edge and to which part of the edge of each cup respectively may also be fastened.

Cups attached to such a support will adopt at least two generally perpendicular substantially straight edges. Such a shape of cup has been found to better accommodate and support the breast. Straight edges are also found to allow for better force distribution in the bra without distortion of the bra or the need for wire or other stiff materials. The invention also allows for production of a bra without a cradle and hence allows for greater flexibility in cup positioning and size for a given underband length. In particular bras which minimise and provide improved support for nominal breast sizes above DD cup can be produced.

The receiving means preferably comprises an underband portion which defines the first substantially straight edge and two wing portions which define the two further edges respectively. The underband portion is preferably formed from a resiliently stretchable fabric. The wing portions are preferably formed from a substantially non-stretchable fabric. The portions may be formed from separate pieces of fabric fastened together or from a single piece of fabric. Means to releasably attach the portions together may be provided.

-5 A lower edge of each of two cups is preferably fastened to the edge of the underband portion. The side of each cup is preferably fastened to the edge of the two wing portions respectively. As such, the edges of each cup fastened to the edge of the wing and underband portions are preferably disposed generally at right angles to each other. Each cup preferably also has an inner edge which, in an assembled garment, is generally parallel to its outer edge. In one embodiment the inner edges of each cup are fastened together. In another they are each fastened to opposite parallel sides respectively of a bridge. The bridge, where provided, is preferably also fastened to the upper edge of the underband portion. The cups are preferably not stretchable relative to the underband portions. The cups may comprise two or more separate, joined pieces. The bra preferably does not include any wires or like stiff supporting members.

The cups are preferably formed so that before they are fastened to the remainder of the garment they have curved edges and define a domed shape. When the cups are fastened to the remainder of the garment some or all of the cup edges are preferably constrained along straight lines.

According to a second aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of fitting a bra comprising the steps of:

providing a means for supporting two cups including an underband portion, of length to fit closely around the upper body of a wearer under the wearer's bust, the underband portion defining a substantially straight edge;and wing portions defining spaced apart, facing, substantially straight edges extending generally perpendicularly from the edge defined by the underband portion, the two portions being of size so that when the underband is worn around the upper body of the wearer with opposite ends meeting at the centre of the wearer's back the facing edges of the wing portions are disposed at opposite sides respectively of the wearer's chest wall; and providing cups of size to accommodate the wearer's breast volume, an outer edge of each cup being fastened to the facing edges of the wing portions respectively.

Independent determination of underband length and cup size and position allows for a better fit to be more routinely obtained than with conventional garments and methods.

Each cup preferably also has an inner edge, in one embodiment the inner edge of each cup is fastened together. In another embodiment the inner edge of each cup is fastened to opposite sides respectively of a bridge. The inner edge is preferably parallel to the outer edge fastened to the wing portion.

The method of fitting preferably also includes one or more of the following steps:

taking an underbust measurement around the wearer's body, to determine the length of underband portion required; taking an axilla to axilla measurement across the wearer's chest, to determine the spacing of the edges of the wing portions required; taking an underarm to underarm measurement, across the fullest point of the wearer's bust; and taking an across bust measurement around the wearer's body, the latter two measurements being required to determine the size of cups required.

In one embodiment the bra may be provided in two separate portions, a back portion arranged to fit around the wearer's back and terminating with the facing edges of the wing portions and a front portion including two cups, the outer edges of which include means to fasten them to the facing edges of the wing portions, for example laces or a zip fastener. The front portion preferably includes all or part of an underband portion defining, an edge to which tower parts of the cups are fastened. This approach allows for greater flexibility in sizing. A person may then select appropriate back and front portions for assembly into a single garment.

According to a third aspect of the present invention there is provided a range of bras each bra in the range comprising an underband portion, two wing portions one at each end of the underband, the underband portion defining a substantially straight edge and the wing portions defining spaced apart, facing, substantially straight edges extending generally perpendicularly from.the underband portion, and two cups wherein the length of the underband portion and distance along the edge of the underband portion between the facing edges of the wing portions is the same and the size of cups is different for each bra in the range.

Such a range provides a choice of cup size on a single underband length, without variation in cup position.

According to a fourth aspect of the present invention there is provided a range of bras comprising a number of back portions the opposite ends of which define substantially straight, parallel edges and include fastening means and a number of front portions comprising two cups part of the edges of which are fastened to a support having a substantially straight edge, the outside edge of the front portion including fastening means to enable opposite edges respectively of a front portion to be fastened to respective edges of a back portion to form a complete garment.

According to a fifth aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of providing a bra comprising the steps of:

selecting two back portions from a range thereof, opposite ends of each back portion in the range defining substantially straight parallel edges; selecting a front portion from a range thereof, each front portion in the range comprising two cups part of the edges of which are fastened to a support having a substantially straight edge; and fastening each opposite outside edge of the front portion to a respective back portion to form a complete garment.

The range preferably includes both front and back portions of a number of different sizes.

In order that the invention may be more clearly understood embodiments thereof will now be described, by way of example, with reference to the accompanying drawings of which:

Figure 1 shows a conventional bra; Figure 2 shows an embodiment of a bra according to the invention; Figure 3 shows another embodiment of a bra according to the invention; and Figure 4 shows a plan view of the upper body of a person wearing a bra according to the invention.

Referring to Figure 1 there is illustrated one common type of conventional bra. This comprises wings 1 fastened to opposite sides of a cradle 2, including a bridge 3, which supports cups. Each cup is formed by upper 4 and lower 5 cup portions. The edge of each assembled cup is curved. Shoulder straps 6 extend from the top of each upper cup 4 to near the outside edge of a respective wing 1. A fastening means 7 is provided to fasten the outer edges of the wings together around a wearer's body.

As discussed above conventional bras are sized using a cross grading system which results in the size of the various components being related.

A particular problem is that for a given underband length changing the cup size causes the wing length to change, altering the position of the cups on the wearer's body. In practice for nominal cup sizes of DD and over the distortion makes the garment anatomically incompatible.

Referring to Figure 2, a bra according to the invention comprises an underband 8, formed from a length of parallel, straight sided elasticated tape. Wings 9, also formed from a substantially non-stretchable material, are fastened along the upper edge, at opposite ends respectively, of the underband 8. Alternatively, the wings and underband could be integrally formed. Each wing has an outer 10 and an inner 11 edge. The outer edge of each wing 9 includes fastening means, such as hooks and eyes or any other suitable means, for fastening the outer edges of the wings together around a wearer's body. The fastening means may allow the wings 9 to be fastened together at different relative positions.

The inner edge 11 of each wing is straight and substantially perpendicular to the upper edge of the underband 8. Fastened to the inner edge 11 of each wing is the outer edge of a respective cup 12. The join between cup 12 and wing 9 is also substantially perpendicular to the upper edge of the underband 8. The cups 12 are formed from a fabric which is substantially non-stretchable as compared to the underband 8. The cups comprise two components, upper 13 and lower 14 portions, they could, however, be formed from any other number of components in a - 11 conventional manner. The inner edges 15 of the two cups are fastened together. The inner 15 and outer edges of the cups are substantially parallel and, therefore, the join between the two cups is substantially perpendicular to the upper edge of the underband.

The elasticated underband 8 is sewn onto the wings in an unstretched state. In use the wings 9 therefore effectively prevent stretching of the edge of the underband 8 fastened to the wing. The lower edge of the underband 8 associated with the wings 9 can, however, stretch. In an alternative embodiment the portion of the underband 8 fastened to the wings 9 is substantially non-stretchable. The elasticated underband 8 is sewn onto the cups 12 in a fully stretched state so that when released the cups 12 are gathered on to the underband 8.

Substantially non-stretchable shoulder straps 16 extend between the upper portion 13 of each cup and near the extremity of each wing 9. They may include means to adjust their length (not shown).

Before attachment to the underband 8 and wings 9 the lower edge and sides of the cup are curved and the cup forms a generally domed shape. When the bra is assembled the lower edge and sides of the cups are constrained to follow the straight edges of the underband 8 and wings 9.

The base of the cups of the assembled garment is therefore generally square.

This arrangement enables the underband 8 and the edges of the cups to fit closely to the chest wall. When the bra is fastened around a wearer tension in the wings will be directed along the underband and a line running between the tops of the wings. The 'square' lower edge to the cups can accommodate a variety of breast root shapes and does not distort when tension is applied, in contrast to curved edge cups where wires are often employed to maintain cup shape.

The support provided is found to be improved over conventional curved cup bras. The effect of the square cups is similar to that of a square of fabric being used to trap a round object on a flat surface by fastening the fabric to the surface at each corner.

In an alternative arrangement, the wings and any associated underband are detachably fastened to the front of the garment, that is the cups and any associated underband. This allows interchange of differently sized back and front portions. It will be appreciated that some detachable fastening would need to be incorporated into the straps to allow separation of the two portions.

Figure 3 shows an alternative embodiment. Referring to this figure the bra is essentially the same as that shown in Figure 2, save for inclusion of a bridge 16, comprising a rectangle of non-stretchable material, fastened to and extending between the inner edges 17 of the cups.

As cup size is decreased a bridge may become necessary to join the two cups together. As cup size increases the cup material is gathered onto the underband, to accommodate a greater length of cup edge onto a shorter length of underband.

Bras according to the invention can be more easily manufactured in a wider range of ergonomically compatible sizes than conventional bras.

Elimination of the cradle avoids the problems caused by conventional cross grading. In particular underband length may be selected independently of cup and wing size.

For correct fitting of a bra underband length should be selected to allow for a close fit around the wearer's rib cage. The underband should be chosen so that it will fit closely around the wearer's rib cage with the portions of the underband fastened to the wings in an unstretched state And the portion of the underband fastened to the cups in a fully or nearly fully stretched state. Wing size should then be selected so that the inner edges of the wings terminate at opposite sides of the wearer's chest wall.

This ensures that the wearer's breast volume is contained largely within the edges of the wearer's chest wail, in contrast to conventional garments where, for a given underband length, cup size affects wing length and cup position so that as cup size increases the wearer's breasts become unnaturally separated. Cup size can then be selected to contain the wearer's breast volume so that the bra can provide adequate support for the weight of the breasts without exerting undue pressure onto delicate breast tissue.

Figure 4 shows how a garment should be fitted. Solid line 18 represents the perimeter of the rib cage of a wearer's upper body. The wings of a bra 19 are shown extending around the back of the wearer's body. The inner edges 20 of the wings are disposed under the wearer's arms, at opposite sides respectively of the wearer's chest wall. The underband 21 extends adjacent the front of the wearer's chest wail, under their breasts. The wearer's breast volume, shown by dashed line 22, is contained within cups (not shown) fastened between the inner edges of the wings and the top of the underband. Wing size is selected so that, in use, the inner edges of the wings are disposed at opposite sides of the wearer's chest wall. This ensures that all of the breast volume is accommodated in the cups.

To enable mass manufacture of ergonomically compatible bras the invention also provides for a range of bras of similar underband length and wing inner edge spacing, but different cup size. This is not currently possible with conventional cross grading. it allows cup size to be selected independently of underband length and cup position/wing length.

The above embodiments are described by way of example only, many variations are possible without departing from the invention.

Claims

1 A bra comprising means for supporting two cups, said means comprising a first substantially straight edge to which part of the edge of each cup may be fastened and two further, spaced apart, facing substantially straight edges extending generally perpendicularly from the first edge and to which part of the edge of each cup respectively may also be fastened.

2. A bra as claimed in claim 1, wherein the receiving means comprises an underband portion which defines the first substantially straight edge and two wing portions which define the two further edges respectively. A bra as claimed in claim 2, wherein the underband portion is formed from a resiliently stretchable fabric.

4. A bra as claimed in either claim 2 or 3, wherein the wing portions are formed from a substantially non-stretchable fabric.

5. A bra. as claimed in any of claims 2 to 4, wherein a lower edge of each of the two cups is fastened to the underband portion.

6. A bra as claimed in any of claims 2 to 5, wherein an outer edge of each cup is fastened to a respective wing portion. A bra as claimed in claim 6, wherein each cup has an inner edge which, in an assembled garment, is generally parallel to its outer edge.

3.

7.

10.

13.

8. A bra as claimed in claim 7, wherein the inner edges of each cup are fastened together.

9. A bra as claimed in claim 7, wherein the inner edges of each cup are fastened to opposite parallel sides respectively of a bridge. A bra as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the cups are formed from a substantially non-stretchable material.

11. A bra as claimed in any preceding claim not containing any wires or other like stiff supporting member.

12. A bra substantially as herein described with reference to either Figure 2 or 3 of the accompanying drawings.

A method of fitting a bra comprising the steps of: providing a means for supporting two cups including an underband portion, of length to fit closely around the upper body of a wearer under the wearer's bust, the underband portion defining a substantially straight edge; and wing portions defining spaced apart, facing, substantially straight edges extending generally perpendicularly from the edge defined by the underband portion, the two portions being of size so that when the underband is worn around the upper body of the wearer with opposite ends meeting at the centre of the wearer's back the facing edges of the wing portions are disposed at opposite sides respectively of the wearer's chest wall; and providing cups of size to accommodate the wearer's breast volume, an outer edge of each cup 17.

-17being fastened to the facing edges of the wing portions respectively.

14. A method as claimed in claim 13 including one or more of the following steps: taking an underbust measurement around the wearer's body, to determine the length of underband portion required; taking an axilla to axilla measurement across the wearer's chest, to determine the spacing of the edges of the wing portions required; taking an underarm to underarm measurement, across the fullest point of the wearer's bust; and taking an across bust measurement around the wearer's body, the latter two measurements being required to determine the size of cups required.

15. A method of fitting a bra substantially as herein described with reference to Figure 4 of the accompanying drawings.

16. -A range of bras each bra in the range comprising an underband portion, two wing portions one at each end of the underband, the underband portion defining a substantially straight edge and the wing portions defining spaced apart, facing, substantially straight edges extending generally perpendicularly from the underband portion, and two cups wherein the length of the underband portion and distance along the edge of the underband portion between the facing edges of the wing portions is the,.same'and the size of cups is different for each bra in the range.

A range of bras comprising a number of back portions the opposite -18ends of which define substantially straight, parallel edges and include fastening means and a number of front portions comprising two cups part of the edges of which are fastened to a support having a substantially straight edge, the outside edge of the front portion including fastening means to enable opposite edges respectively of a front portion to be fastened to respective edges of a back portion to form a complete garment.

18. A method of providing a bra comprising the steps of: selecting two back portions from a range thereof, opposite ends of each back portion in the range defining substantially straight parallel edges; selecting a front portion from a range thereof, each front portion in the range comprising two cups part of the edges of which are fastened to a support having a substantially straight edge; and fastening each opposite outside edge of the front potion to a respective back portion to form a complete garment.