FR3145280A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ELECTROLYTE AND A COMBINATION OF POLYSACCHARIDES - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ELECTROLYTE AND A COMBINATION OF POLYSACCHARIDES The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a gel composition, comprising: (a) at least one electrolyte, (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide, wherein the amount of (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ELECTROLYTE AND A COMBINATION OF POLYSACCHARIDES

The present invention relates to a composition comprising an electrolyte and a combination of polysaccharides.

PRIOR ART

Gelling of compositions containing electrolytes, especially a large amount of electrolytes, makes it difficult to obtain a sufficient thickening effect. Thus, there are technical problems of gelling a composition containing electrolytes.

Some technologies for gelling an electrolyte-containing composition have been reported so far. For example, WO2014/132783 discloses a skin gel composition, characterized by comprising (A) an electrolyte, (B) a nonionic polysaccharide compound, and (C) a crosslinked polymer formed using (C1) an acrylamide methyl propane sulfonate, (C2) a dimethylacrylamide, (C3) an alkyl (meth)acrylate, and (C4) a polyoxyethylene alkyl ether (meth)acrylate.

Due to the growing awareness of environmental issues in recent years, consumers tend to want products that use more environmentally friendly raw materials.

Thus, there is a demand for providing a gel-like composition formed with natural resources, which can maintain transparency over time and has improved applicability with a preferred hardness range, while comprising a large amount of electrolytes.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a gel-like composition formed with natural resources, which can maintain transparency over time and has improved applicability, while comprising a large amount of electrolytes.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, comprising:

(a) at least one electrolyte,

(b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

(c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

(d) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide

wherein the amount of (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(a) Electrolyte may be a cosmetically active ingredient for keratinous substances, especially skin.

The (a) electrolyte may be chosen from organic acids and their salts.

The (a) electrolyte may be selected from hydroxy acids, such as α- and β-hydroxy acids, carboxylic acids, amino acids, taurine, phosphoric acids, pyrophosphoric acid and cosmetically active organic acids, such as ascorbic acid, glycyrrhizic acid and UV absorbers, for example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

The (a) electrolyte may be chosen from ascorbic acid and its salts.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide may have at least one quaternary ammonium group.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic gums.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) anionic polysaccharides may comprise at least one anionic group derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfenic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid or pyruvic acid, and preferably from carboxylic acid.

The (c) anionic polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, and hyaluronic acid.

The (c) anionic polysaccharide may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (d) nonionic polysaccharide may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition can be in the form of a gel.

The composition may comprise a synthetic polymer in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or revitalizing keratinous substances, such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the scalp.

After careful research, the inventors surprisingly discovered that a combination of (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide and (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide can provide a gel-like composition with improved transparency over time and preferred hardness, while the composition comprises a large amount of electrolytes, and thus finalized the invention.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) at least one electrolyte,

(b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

(c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

(d) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide,

wherein the amount of (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.

[Composition]

The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for keratinous substances. Keratinous substances herein refer to a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples include the skin, such as the skin of the face, neck and body, the scalp, the lips, and the like. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is used for the skin.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be used for the treatment, revitalization and/or care of keratinous substances, in particular of the skin.

The composition according to the present invention has a preferred range of viscosity and hardness so that it can provide users with improved applicability. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a gel composition, such as a liquid gel, a fluid gel and a viscous gel. The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an aqueous gel.

The preferred viscosity range of the composition according to the present invention may be 4,000 to 9,000 mPa・s at room temperature (25°C). Since the composition is neither too viscous nor too fluid, it can provide users with an improved spreading property and a preferred feel during application.

In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention may be 4,500 to 8,500 mPa・s, and more preferably 5,000 to 8,000 mPa・s at room temperature (25°C). In the context of the present specification, the viscosity may be measured, for example, using a viscometer (Brookfield LVDV-III U with spindle #64), at 12 rpm. The viscosity at 1 minute after the start of the measurement may be recorded.

The preferred hardness range of the composition according to the present invention may be 5 to 15 g at room temperature (25°C). Since the composition is neither too hard nor too soft, it can provide users with improved spreading property and preferred feel during application.

In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the hardness of the composition according to the present invention may be from 7 to 15 g, and more preferably from 9 to 15 g at room temperature (25 °C). For the purposes of the present specification, the hardness may be measured, for example, using a texture analyzer sold under the name TA-TX2i® by Rheo equipped with a round probe with a diameter of 5 mm at a speed of 2 mm/s.

The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-on cosmetic composition. The expression “leave-on” designates a composition which is not intended to be washed/rinsed or removed immediately after application. A leave-on composition is different from a rinse-off type composition, which is intended to be rinsed after being used on keratinous materials.

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one electrolyte, (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide.

The ingredients included in the composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.

(Electrolyte)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one electrolyte. Two or more (a) electrolytes may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of electrolyte or a combination of different types of electrolytes may be used.

The (a) electrolyte may be a cosmetically active ingredient for keratinous substances, especially skin, such as anti-aging agents, whitening agents, anti-wrinkle agents, moisturizing agents, antiphlogistic agents, astringent agents, ultraviolet absorbers and/or antiperspirant agents. In the present invention, the (a) electrolytes are not particularly limited insofar as they can be used as raw materials for cosmetics and can be appropriately mixed according to the intended purpose.

The (a) electrolyte may include, for example, organic acids and their salts, and inorganic acids and their salts. Preferably, the (a) electrolyte may be selected from organic acids and their salts.

The term "organic acid" herein refers to non-polymeric organic compounds which exhibit an acidic property when dissolved in water. The water solubility of the organic acid is not particularly limited, but generally at least 1 g/100 mL of water, preferably at least 5 g/100 mL of water, and especially at least 10 g/100 mL of water at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The organic acid may have a weight average molecular weight of less than 500, preferably less than 400, in particular less than 300, and more particularly less than 250. In the context of this specification, the weight average molecular weight indicates a number average molecular weight.

The organic acid may be selected from, for example, hydroxy acids, such as α- and β-hydroxy acids, carboxylic acids, amino acids, taurine, phosphoric acids, pyrophosphoric acid and cosmetically active organic acids, such as ascorbic acid, glycyrrhizic acid and UV absorbers, for example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

With respect to α- and β-hydroxy acids, the α and β positions reflect the fact that at least one of the hydroxyl functions occupies an α or β position relative to at least one of the carboxyl functions of the acid, i.e., is attached, respectively, either to the carbon bearing the hydroxyl function or to the carbon adjacent to the carbon bearing the carboxyl function. The term “α-hydroxy acid”, or “AHA”, herein refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom. The term “β-hydroxy acid”, or “BHA”, herein refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

The α-hydroxy acid can be represented by the following formula:

(R _a )(R _b )C(OH)COOH

Or

_Ra and R _b are H, F, Cl, Br, I, an alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group of saturated or unsaturated form, isomeric or non-isomeric, straight or branched chain or cyclic, having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and furthermore _Ra and R _b may carry OH, CHO, COOH and an alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.

The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by F, Cl, Br, I or a lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. Alpha hydroxy acids may be present as the free acid or lactone, or as a partial salt with an organic base or an inorganic alkali. Alpha hydroxy acids may exist as stereoisomers such as D, L, DL and meso forms.

Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl, and alkoxyl groups for Ra and Rb include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl, and ethoxyl.

The α-hydroxy acid may be selected, for example, from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably from lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and mixtures thereof.

As β-hydroxy acids, we can cite, without limitation, salicylic acid and its derivatives.

The carboxylic acid may be selected from C ₁ -C ₆ monocarboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid; C ₁ -C ₆ dicarboxylic acids; such as maleic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid and malonic acid; aromatic carboxylic acids, such as phthalic acid and salicylic acid; pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid.

Amino acids may be selected from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids, neutral amino acids, and mixtures thereof. Acidic amino acids typically have one amino group and two carboxyl groups. Acidic amino acids may include glutamic acid and aspartic acid. Basic amino acids typically have two amino groups and one carboxyl group. Basic amino acids may include arginine, lysine, histidine, and ornithine. The number of amino group(s) and the number of carboxyl group(s) in neutral amino acids are the same. Neutral amino acids may include glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, asparagine, glutamine, proline, phenylalanine, tyrosine, and tryptophan.

The amino acid may be selected from α-amino acids, β-amino acids, γ-amino acids and δ-amino acids. The α-amino acid may be selected from non-cyclic α-amino acids and cyclic α-amino acids. The non-cyclic α-amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. The cyclic α-amino acid may be selected from non-aromatic cyclic α-amino acids such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyroglutamic acid or pidolic acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid can be formed by intramolecular condensation with the amino group and carboxyl group of glutamic acid.

In some embodiments, the amino acid may be selected from amino acid derivatives. The amino acid derivatives (amino acid derivatives) may be selected from amino acids in which the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom of the amino group in the amino acids is substituted by at least one substituent. As the substituent, for example, an alkyl group, an acyl group, an alkenyl group, an alkoxyl group and an alkoxycarbonyl group may be mentioned.

The cationic fraction of the electrolyte may consist of metal or organic cations. As metal cations, there may be mentioned alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, such as Na ⁺ , K ⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Mg ²⁺ , as well as Zn ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . As organic cations, there may be mentioned ammonium ion, sulfonium ion, phosphonium ion, tertiary amine such as trimethylamine salts, triethylamine salts, monoethanolamine salts, triethanolamine salts and pyridine salts.

As (a) electrolyte, the following organic acids and their inorganic salts, such as calcium salts, potassium salts, sodium salts and magnesium salts may be mentioned: lactic acid and lactates, such as sodium lactate, magnesium lactate and calcium lactate; phosphoric acid and phosphate, such as potassium phosphate, sodium phosphate, sodium pyrophosphate; glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhizinate, such as dipotassium glycyrrhizinate; ascorbic acid and its salts, such as magnesium ascorbate phosphate, sodium ascorbate phosphate, sodium ascorbate, disodium L-ascorbyl sulfate; pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and pyrrolidone carboxylates, such as sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate and zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate; amino acids such as proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, serine and their derivatives; UV absorbers such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salts, and the like.

In particular, the (a) electrolyte is chosen from ascorbic acid and its salts.

The amount of the (b) electrolyte(s) in the composition according to the present invention is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) electrolyte(s) may be present in a content of 7% by weight or more, preferably 8.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) electrolyte(s) may be present in a content of 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less and, more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) electrolyte(s) may be present in a content ranging from 7% to 30% by weight, preferably from 8.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 9% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the context of this specification, any combination of the above upper limit values and lower limit values may be available to represent the preferred range of the quantity.

(Cationic polysaccharide)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide. Two or more types of cationic polysaccharides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polysaccharide or a combination of different types of cationic polysaccharides may be used.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide may be soluble in water and may bear a cationic charge in water. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water soluble" herein means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

The (b) cationic polysaccharide has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a) cationic polysaccharide may be from 0.01 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq/g and, more preferably, from 0.1 to 10 meq/g.

It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a) cationic polysaccharide is 500 or more, preferably 1,000 or more, more preferably 2,000 or more, and even more preferably 5,000 or more.

Unless otherwise specified in the description, “molecular weight” may refer to number average molecular weight.

The (a) cationic polysaccharide may have at least one positively chargeable and/or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term “amino group” (primary) herein refers to the NH ₂ group.

It is preferable that the cationic polysaccharide has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkylammonium group and, more preferably, a quaternary trimethylammonium group.

The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a quaternary ammonium-containing group which may be represented by the following chemical formula (I):
(I)

in which

each of R ₁ and R ₂ denotes a C _1-3 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,

R3 denotes a C _1-24 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,

X- denotes an anion, preferably a halide, and more preferably a chloride,

n denotes an integer from 0 to 30, preferably 0 to 10, and more preferably equal to 0, and

R ₄ denotes a C ₁ - C ₄ alkylene group, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.

The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in chemical formula (I) above can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.

It is preferred that the group containing the quaternary ammonium is -O-CH ₂ -CH(OH)-CH ₂ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ .

The (b) cationic polysaccharide may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide may be selected from natural and synthetic cationic polysaccharides.

It may be preferable that the (a) cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic cellulosic polymers.

According to the present invention, a “cationic cellulosic polymer” means any non-silicone cellulosic polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and preferably not containing anionic groups and/or groups ionizable into anionic groups.

The term " cellulosic " polymer designates according to the invention any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 chains of glucose residues joined by β-1,4 bonds. The cellulosic polymer can be associative, that is to say have in its structure at least one C ₈ - C ₃₀ fatty chain.

Cationic cellulosic polymers suitable for use preferably have a weight average molecular weight (Wm) between about 5,000 and 5.10 ⁶ , preferably between about 10 ³ and 3.10 ⁶ .

Non-limiting examples of cationic cellulosic polymers include the following.

(1) Cationic cellulosic polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French patent No. 1,492,597, such as the polymers sold under the names “JR” (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by the Dow Chemical Company. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

(2) Cationic cellulosic polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with one selected from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium and dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, products sold under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by Akzo Novel Company.

(3) Cationic cellulosic polymers having at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain.

The fatty chain of the quaternized celluloses modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain may be a linear alkyl, a linear or branched arylalkyl, a linear alkylaryl, preferably a linear alkyl, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, we can cite the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):

in which:

- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN ⁺ -, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or linear C1-C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as chloride or bromide;

- R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN ⁺ -, Q'- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear C1-C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;

it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl;

- n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; preferably C10-C24, or C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; preferably C10-C24, or C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, all the other radicals represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

More preferably, R may be a group selected from –N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ , Q'- and –N ⁺ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )(CH ₃ ) ₂ , Q'-, preferably a group –N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ , Q'-.

More preferably, R' may be a group -N ⁺ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )(CH ₃ ) ₂ , Q'-.

The percentage of nitrogen can vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

We can notably cite polymers with the INCI names:

- Polyquaternium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by the company AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL;

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®;

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL®; and

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.

Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents a trimethylammonium chloride Cl-,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl-,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X, from the company AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL.

More particularly, the cationic cellulose polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses reacted with a trimethylammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethylammonium epoxide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-67). It is preferentially marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by Amerchol.

It may also be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic starches.

Examples of cationic starches include starches modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (e.g., chloride), such as the product called starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride according to the INCl nomenclature and sold under the name SENSOMER Cl-50 from Ondeo or Pencare ^TM DP 1015 from Ingredion.

It may also be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic gums, particularly cationic galactomannan gums.

The term " cationic galactomannan gum " means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups ionizable to cationic groups.

Galactomannans are polysaccharides composed primarily of galactose and mannose units, in which the mannose units are linked by a 1-4-glycoside bond and the branching of the galactose occurs by means of a 1-6 bridge to the mannose units. Each ring of the galactose or mannose units (or sugar units) carries three free hydroxyl groups available for chemical reaction. Galactomannans are commonly found in the endosperm of legume grains such as guar or carob.

Preferred cationic groups are selected from those including primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight average molecular weight between about 500 and 5x10 ⁶ , and preferably between about 10 ³ and 3x10 ⁶ .

Galactomannan groups suitable for use according to the present invention are, for example, gums including cationic trialkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups.

Among these trialkylammonium groups, we can particularly cite the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

More preferably still, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trialkylammonium groups, more preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium groups, that is to say a guar gum modified for example by 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

The gums may, for example, be selected from the group consisting of cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum and gum arabic.

These galactomannan gums originating in particular from guar modified by cationic groups are products already known as such and are for example described in US patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307.

Examples of cationic gums include cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives and cassia gum derivatives. In addition, these products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by Rhodia, under the name Amilan ^® Guar (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by Degussa and under the name N-Hance ^® 3000 (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by Aqualon. Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which is a hydroxypropyl derivative of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, is commercially available under the Jaguar™ family of trade names from Rhodia Inc. Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is commercially available under the trade names Sensomer™ CT-250 and Sensomer™ CT-400 from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. or ClearHance™ from Ashland Inc.

It may also be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide is selected from chitosans.

In a preferred embodiment, the (b) cationic polysaccharide is chosen from cationic gums, more preferably cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives.

It may be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67, starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, chitosan, and a mixture thereof, and more preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the (b) cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b) cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less and, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b) cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Anionic polysaccharide)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide. Two or more types of anionic polysaccharides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of anionic polysaccharide or a combination of different types of anionic polysaccharides may be used.

(c) Anionic polysaccharide can be soluble in water and can carry a negative charge in water.

It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (c) anionic polysaccharide is 1,000 or more, preferably 5,000 or more, and more preferably 10,000 or more.

The (c) anionic polysaccharide may have at least one negatively chargeable and/or negatively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of carboxylate, e.g., carboxyalkyl, sulfate, sulfonate, e.g., sulfoalkyl, phosphate and phosphonate groups. The alkyl groups in these moieties may be C _1-4 alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl and propyl.

It is preferred that the (c) anionic polysaccharides have at least one carboxylate group, for example, a carboxyalkyl group. The counterion of the anionic group is usually an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, suitably sodium, potassium, magnesium or calcium. The anionic groups may also exist in their acidic form, whereby the corresponding anionic groups are formed in an aqueous environment.

The (c) anionic polysaccharides may comprise at least one anionic group derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfenic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid or pyruvic acid. Preferably, the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, in particular a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.

The (c) anionic polysaccharide may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

The (c) anionic polysaccharide may be selected from natural anionic polysaccharides and synthetic anionic polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable natural anionic polysaccharides of the invention include polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, hyaluronic acid; polysaccharides comprising at least one galacturonic acid as a constituent, such as pectins; sulfated polysaccharides, such as carrageenan, ulvan, fucoidan, chondroitin sulfates, dermatan sulfates; agar-agar, and combinations thereof.

Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure is composed of a main chain of β-D-glucoses linked in a β(1,4) manner, similar to cellulose. Every second glucose molecule carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a β-D-glucuronic acid, and a terminal β-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is usually acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues carry a pyruvate group linked in a chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged glucuronic acids and pyruvic acids are ionizable and therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge up to pH 1). The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies depending on the bacterial strain, fermentation process, post-fermentation conditions and purification steps.

Xanthan gums have a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition comprising 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer, type LVT, at 60 revolutions per minute).

Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM and under the names Kelzan ^® and Keltrol ^® by the company CP-Kelco.

Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolysaccharide based on oligosaccharide units composed of 4 saccharides (tetrasaccharide). D-glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in proportions 2/1/1 are present in gellan gum as monomeric elements. It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.

Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide that occurs as mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomeric components of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.

Alginic acid, a natural substance derived from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of two uronic acids linked by 1,4-glycosidic bonds: β-D-mannuronic acid (M) and α-L-glucuronic acid (G). Alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium or lithium, substituted cations of lower amines and ammonium such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine.

Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

In the context of the present invention, the expression "hyaluronic acid" covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

It is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

The term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, linked together in the chain via alternating β(1,4) and β(1,3) glycosidic bonds, having a molecular weight (MW) which can vary between 380 and 1,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and/or the preparation methods.

The expression "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, salts of hyaluronic acid. As salts, mention may be made of alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, the expression used is high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively, hyaluronic acid fractions which may also be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, the expression used is intermediate molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions which may be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, the expression used is low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Pectins are linear polymers of aD-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked in positions 1 and 4, with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. About 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). L-rhamnose residues are present in all pectins, integrated into the main chain in positions 1, 2. The uronic acid molecules carry carboxyl functions. This function gives pectins the ability to exchange ions, when they are in the COO ^" form. Bivalent ions (especially calcium) have the ability to form ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules.

Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinaceae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units alternately linked by α(1,3) and B(1,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20 to 50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of the ester sulfate groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which carry one ester sulfate group, iota-carrageenans, which carry two ester sulfate groups, and lambda-carrageenans, which carry three ester sulfate groups. Carrageenans are composed mainly of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and/or calcium salts and polysaccharide ester sulfates.

Agar-agar is formed from a polymer group in which the basic backbone is a β(1,3) D-galactopyranose chain and an α(1,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately. Differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methyl or carboxyethyl groups. These hybrid structures are usually present in varying percentages, depending on the algae species and the harvest season.

Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular mass, between 40,000 and 300,000 g.mol. It is obtained by manufacturing seaweed extraction juice, generally by autoclaving, and by treating these juices comprising approximately 2% agar-agar, in order to extract the latter.

In a preferred embodiment, the (c) anionic polysaccharide is selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, and hyaluronic acid, in particular xanthan gum.

Examples of suitable synthetic anionic polysaccharides include anionic cellulose derivatives. Anionic cellulose derivatives may include those modified with carboxyalkyl groups, particularly C _1-4 carboxyalkyl groups, such as carboxymethyl, carboxyethyl, carboxypropyl, and sulfoalkyl groups, particularly C _1-4 sulfoalkyl groups, such as sulfomethyl. Anionic cellulose derivatives include carboxymethylcellulose, carboxyethylcellulose, carboxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylsulfoethylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose (“CM-HEC”), and carboxymethylcellulose.

The amount of the (c) anionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (c) anionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (c) anionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Non-ionic polysaccharide)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide. Two or more types of nonionic polysaccharides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of nonionic polysaccharide or a combination of different types of nonionic polysaccharides may be used.

The (d) nonionic polysaccharide may be soluble in water.

For example, the nonionic polysaccharides which may be used are selected from those described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896-900, and Volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature" by E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and in "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc., the contents of all three publications being incorporated by reference in their entirety.

Specifically, the (d) nonionic polysaccharide may be selected, for example, from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, e.g. wheat, corn or rice, vegetables, e.g. yellow peas, and tubers, e.g. potato or cassaya), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, gums tragacanth, gums ghatti, gums karaya, carob gums or locust bean gums, galactomannans, such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof, which are different from the (b) cationic polysaccharide and (c) anionic polysaccharide explained above.

Among the starches that can be used, we can cite, for example, macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising basic moieties that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these moieties and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) from amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

The botanical origin of the starch molecules used may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches may be, for example, chosen from corn starch, rice starch, cassaya starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

Starches are generally in the form of a white powder that is insoluble in cold water and has an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

Starches may be optionally _C1 - _C6 hydroxyalkylated or _C1 - _C6 acylated (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

Guar gums can be modified or unmodified.

Modified nonionic guar gums are, for example, modified with _C1 - _C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

Examples of hydroxyalkyl groups include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl.

These guar gums are well known in the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain a hydroxypropyl-modified guar gum.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, can, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

These optionally hydroxyalkyl-modified nonionic guar gums are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP-8 COS, Jaguar HP-60, Jaguar HP-120 and Jaguar HP-120 by Solvay.

Examples of celluloses used include hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcelluloses. Examples include products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel MF and Klucel G by the Ashland Company.

Alternatively, as non-ionic hydrophilic polysaccharide thickener, polysaccharides derived from microorganisms may also be preferentially used.

Microorganism-derived polysaccharide refers to the polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria.

The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms is not a polysaccharide derived from plants. Thus, it may be preferable that the polysaccharide derived from microorganisms is not cellulose-based.

Examples of the polysaccharide derived from microorganisms include cardollane, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the (d) nonionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d) nonionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less and, more preferably, 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d) nonionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other ingredients)

- Water

The composition according to the present invention comprises water.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more; and/or may be 98% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less; and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 40% to 98% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent. If two or more of these solvents are used, they may be the same or different.

The cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) may include, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monohydric alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, pentylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethylene glycol monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6 and PEG-8, and derivatives thereof.

The amount of the cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Additives

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more of the adjuvants which are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents other than ingredients (b) to (d); penetrating agents; pH correctors such as sodium hydroxide; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants, such as hydroxyacetophenone; moisturizers; emollients; active agents for keratinous substances; free radical scavengers; sequestering agents such as trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; suspending agents; a buffer; perfumes; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and/or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; fungicides, such as chlorphenesin; opacifying agents; agents that may cause a cooling sensation; and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the additives included in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

In some embodiments of the present invention, the composition does not comprise a synthetic polymer, such as a gelling agent. In some embodiments, the composition comprises a synthetic polymer but the amount thereof is very small. For example, the composition of the present invention comprises a synthetic polymer in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is free of synthetic polymers (i.e., 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition).

As synthetic polymer, polyacrylate and the like may be mentioned.

In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention is free of oils or comprises a trace amount of oils. In some embodiments, the oils may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention is free of oils (i.e., 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition).

Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The oils may include volatile or non-volatile oils; such oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, including those of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. The oil may be selected from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, “hydrocarbon oil” or “hydrocarbon oil” is intended to mean an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon oil does not include any silicon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "silicone oil" is intended to denote an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, such as dimethicone.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention may generally be, for example, from 2 to 7, preferably from 3 to 7, and more preferably from 4 to 6.

The composition according to the present invention may be manufactured according to techniques customary in the art, for example, by mixing ingredients (a) to (d). Said other ingredients may be mixed with these ingredients. While these ingredients are mixed, they may be heated if necessary.

[Cosmetic process and use]

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method or process, preferably a cosmetic method or process, and more preferably a cosmetic method or process for treating, caring for and/or revitalizing keratinous substances, such as the skin, scalp and lips, in particular the skin, comprising:

the application to the keratinous substance of a composition comprising:

(a) at least one electrolyte,

(b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

(c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

(d) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide,

wherein the amount of (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of

(b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

(c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

(d) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide,

for gelling a composition comprising (a) an electrolyte in an amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition is usually applied to a keratinous substance, such as skin, with the hands or an applicator.

The composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on cosmetic composition. Therefore, the cosmetic process or use according to the present invention may not include a step of rinsing or washing off the applied composition after the application step.

The same explanations as given for the composition, (a) at least one electrolyte, (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide in the composition of the invention may apply to those for the process and use according to the present invention. The composition used in the process and use according to the present invention may comprise any of the optional ingredients explained above for the composition according to the present invention.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

In the examples, “Maltitol (and) Sorbitol” were obtained from KANKOHSHA, sold as “Amalty Syrup”, and Oryzanol was obtained from TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS, sold as “Gamma Oryzanol”.

[Composition]

The compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 (Ex. 1 to 3) and Comparative Examples 1 to 9 were prepared according to the following protocol. The formulations are shown in Tables 1 and 2 below. In Tables 1 and 2, all components are based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.

[Preparation protocol]

1) Mix water, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate at 75-80°C to form a uniform mixture.

2) Add pentylene glycol, ceratonia siliqua gum and xanthan gum, if using, to the mixture and mix using a homogenizer at 75 to 80 °C until homogenous.

3) Add the ascorbic acid to the mixture and mix it with a homogenizer at 50°C to homogenize.

4) Add sodium hydroxide to the mixture and mix it with a homogenizer at 50°C to homogenize.

5) Add hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, if used, to the mixture and mix with a homogenizer at 50°C until homogenized.

6) Cool the mixture to 30°C without mixing.

[Assessment]

(Viscosity)

The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 9 was measured using a viscometer (Brookfield LVDV-III U with spindle #64), at 12 rpm at room temperature (25 °C). The viscosity at 1 minute after the start of the measurement was recorded.

The preferred viscosity value is in the range of 4,000 to 9,000 mPa・s. When the viscosity value is lower than 4,000 mPa・s, the composition may drip during application. When the viscosity value is higher than 9,000 mPa・s, it may be too difficult to spread the composition on the skin.

(Hardness)

The hardness of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 9 was measured with a texture analyzer sold under the name TA-TX2i® by Rheo equipped with a round probe with a diameter of 5 mm at a speed of 2 mm/s at room temperature (25 °C).

The preferred hardness value is in the range of 5 to 15 g. When the hardness value is less than 5 g, the composition may drip during application. When the hardness value is more than 15 g, the composition may become like jelly and it may be too difficult to spread the composition evenly on the skin.

(Color change)

200 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 9 were placed in a 250 mL plastic bottle and then left at 45 °C for 2 months. The color change in appearance was observed visually and then evaluated according to the following criteria.

OK: The color turned slightly brown but was acceptable.

NG: The color clearly turned brown and was not acceptable.

The results are summarized in Tables 1 and 2 below.

Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Chlorphenesin 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Pentylene glycol 3 3 3 3 3 3 Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum 0.3 0.3 0.2 1 - - Xanthan gum 0.3 0.3 0.4 - 1 - Ascorbic acid 10 10 10 10 10 10 Sodium hydroxide 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.3 0.1 0.3 - - 1 Assessment Viscosity 7,900 5,400 6,500 1,200 7,900 450 Hardness 10.3 14.7 10.5 <5 <5 <5 Color change OK OK OK OK OK OK

Ingredients Ex. Comp. 4 Ex. Comp. 5 Ex. Comp. 6 Ex. Comp. 7 Ex. Comp. 8 Ex. Comp. 9 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Chlorphenesin 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Pentylene glycol 3 3 3 3 3 3 Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum 0.5 - 0.5 0.2 0.3 0.3 Xanthan gum 0.5 0.5 - 0.2 0.3 0.3 Ascorbic acid 10 10 10 10 10 10 Sodium hydroxide 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 Crosslinked Polymer-6 of Polyacrylate - - - - - 0.3 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride - 0.5 0.5 - - - Assessment Viscosity 7,500 3,700 800 1,700 4,800 8,400 Hardness 90.4 <5 <5 6.1 15.7 13.5 Color change OK OK OK OK OK NG

As can be seen from the results shown in Tables 1 and 2, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, which included the combinations of ingredients (b) to (d) of the present invention, exhibited preferred viscosity and hardness properties, and maintained a transparent appearance over time, while these compositions included 10% by weight of ascorbic acid as electrolyte (a).

In contrast, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 9, which lacked at least one of ingredients (b) to (d), did not exhibit the desired viscosity and/or hardness, or showed a poor appearance due to a change in color.

Claims (10)

Composition, comprising:
(a) at least one electrolyte,
(b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,
(c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and
(d) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide,
wherein the amount of (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) electrolyte is a cosmetically active ingredient for keratinous substances, in particular the skin. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, the (a) electrolyte is chosen from organic acids and their salts. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the (a) electrolyte is selected from hydroxy acids, such as α- and β-hydroxy acids, carboxylic acids, amino acids, taurine, phosphoric acids, pyrophosphoric acid and cosmetically active organic acids, such as ascorbic acid, glycyrrhizic acid and UV absorbers, for example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (a) electrolyte is chosen from ascorbic acid and its salts. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the (b) cationic polysaccharide has at least one quaternary ammonium group. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (b) cationic polysaccharide is chosen from cationic gums. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (c) anionic polysaccharide comprises at least one anionic group derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfenic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid or pyruvic acid, and preferentially from carboxylic acid. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the (c) anionic polysaccharide is selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, and hyaluronic acid. Cosmetic process for treating, caring for and/or revitalizing keratinous substances, such as the skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous substances the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.