FR3140270A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR CARE OF keratinous material - Google Patents

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR CARE OF keratinous material The present invention relates to a composition for care of keratinous material, in particular an anti-aging and anti-glycation composition, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising (a) elastomers of silicone, including (a1) at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and (a2) at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer; (b) at least one silicone oil; and (c) at least one active ingredient, which preferably includes water-soluble active ingredients, wherein the weight ratio of the emulsifying silicone elastomer to the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer varies from 1:35 to 1: 10, preferably from 1:30 to 1:15, or from 1:28 to 1:20. Figure for abstract: none

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR CARE OF keratinous material

The present invention relates to a cosmetic care composition made from keratinous material, and in particular an anti-aging and anti-glycation composition.

RELATED ART

Anti-glycation means resisting the glycation reaction which is one of the factors of human aging and dull skin, and preventing and/or reducing the glycation of skin proteins, especially dermal proteins, such as collagen . Glycation of collagen will cause protein hardening, fiber breakage, loss of skin elasticity and, finally, wrinkles, leading to sagging of the skin; Glycation of keratin will make the skin rough and dull and it will lose moisture.

During the aging process, different signs appear on the skin as a result of a change in skin structure and skin function. One of the clinical signs of aging is, among other things, the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles. These signs of aging increase with age. A disorganization of the “texture” of the skin is particularly observed, which means that the microcontours are less regular and have an anisotropic character.

It is known to treat these signs of aging using cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing active ingredients adapted to combat these signs of aging, such as proxylane, collrepair and vitamin C derivatives. These active ingredients act mainly on wrinkles by removing dead skin cells and accelerating the cell renewal process.

However, active ingredients, particularly water-soluble active ingredients, often cause stickiness and/or an unpleasant feeling during application and leave a film that is not smooth, soft or moisture-free on the skin. There is therefore a need to improve the sensation on the skin during and after the application of cosmetics comprising said active ingredients.

The inventor discovers that when cosmetics, e.g. Oil-in-water emulsions include silicone elastomers, the improved feel on the skin can be achieved by adjusting the ratio of emulsifying elastomer to non-emulsifying elastomer and adding one or more specific silicone oils.

Thanks to the specific ratio between the emulsifying elastomer and the non-emulsifying elastomer and the addition of silicone oils, cosmetics comprising anti-aging and anti-glycation active ingredients, in particular water-soluble active ingredients, have a good feeling of non-sticky nature during and after application, and a more moist skin finish, leaving a soft film on the skin.

According to the first aspect, the present invention relates to a care composition of keratinous material, in particular an anti-aging and anti-glycation composition, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising (a) elastomers of silicone, including (a1) at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and (a2) at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer; (b) at least one silicone oil; and (c) at least one asset.

In one embodiment, the active includes water-soluble active ingredients, or consists substantially of water-soluble active ingredients, or even consists of water-soluble active ingredients. In one embodiment, the active ingredient includes a quantity of approximately 1% by weight, or even less, of non-water-soluble active ingredients, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the composition includes substantially no oil-soluble active ingredients, or even does not include oil-soluble active ingredients.

In one embodiment, said at least one silicone oil comprises a first silicone oil and/or a second silicone oil, and the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in the form of a mixture with the first silicone oil before be added to the composition and/or the emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in the form of a mixture with the second silicone oil before being added to the composition, the first silicone oil being identical to the second silicone oil or different from the second silicone oil.

Preferably, said at least one silicone oil further comprises a third silicone oil, and the third silicone oil is the same as the first and/or the second silicone oil or different from both.

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of emulsifying silicone elastomer to non-emulsifying silicone elastomer ranges from about 1:35 to about 1:10, preferably from about 1:30 to about 1:15 , or from about 1:28 to about 1:20.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer is chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain and/or at least one glyceryl chain.

The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer includes cross-linked dimethicone polymer, cross-linked vinyl dimethicone polymer, cross-linked dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone polymer, cross-linked dimethicone-3 polymer, or mixtures thereof.

The silicone oil is chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organofunctional moiety or group, including polyether-modified silicones. The active ingredient is chosen from C-Glycoside compounds, plant extracts, peptides, flavonoids, vitamin C and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its salts, or their mixtures.

Thanks to the specific ratio between the emulsifying elastomer and the non-emulsifying elastomer and the addition of said silicone oils, the compositions comprising said active ingredients have a good feeling of non-sticky character during and after application, and a finishing film gentle moisturizer on the skin.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises water, and the water is present in an amount ranging from about 25 weight percent to about 90 weight percent, preferably about 30 % by weight to about 85% by weight, or from about 40% by weight to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a combination for improving the sensation on the skin during and after the application of a cosmetic, comprising, consisting substantially of, or even consisting of (a) silicone elastomers, of which (a1) at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and (a2) at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and (b) at least one silicone oil.

In one embodiment, the weight ratio between the emulsifying elastomer and the non-emulsifying elastomer varies from approximately 1:35 to approximately 1:10, preferably from approximately 1:30 to approximately 1:15, or about 1:28 to about 1:20.

In one embodiment, the active preferably includes, or substantially consists of, water-soluble active ingredients, or even consists of water-soluble active ingredients, and includes C-Glycoside compounds, extracts of plants, peptides, flavonoids, vitamin C and its derivatives, or mixtures thereof.

According to the third aspect, the present invention relates to a process for caring for keratinous materials, for example skins, particularly the skin around the eyes, by applying the composition of the present invention to the skin, and optionally massaging the skin.

According to the fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a combination for improving the sensation on the skin during and after the application of a cosmetic, wherein the combination is as defined above.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear even more clearly on reading the detailed description and examples which follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, unless otherwise stated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to.." .

The terms "a" and "an", as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to any single feature, unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

Throughout this application, the term “comprising” must be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features other than those specifically mentioned features are present (such as "consisting substantially of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "consisting substantially of", any additional composition, material and/or component which materially affects the fundamental and novel features are excluded from such embodiment, but any composition, material and/or component which does not does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative features may be included in the embodiment.

The term “approximately” for a certain value is intended to mean a range within ±5% of the value. As an example, the phrase "approximately 100" refers to a range of 100 ± 5, that is, the range from 95 to 105. In general, when the term "approximately" is used, one can expect that similar results or effects according to the disclosure can be obtained within a range of ± 5% of the stated value.

As used herein, the term "keratinous material" refers to skin, nails or mucous membranes, and, in at least one embodiment, refers to skin.

Silicone elastomers

The composition of the present invention comprises organopolysiloxane elastomers, also called "silicone elastomers" in the remainder of the description, preferably which are at least partially crosslinked.

By “elastomer” we mean a flexible and deformable solid material having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity to expand and contract. This material is able to return to its original shape after being stretched. This elastomer is formed of high molecular weight polymer chains, the mobility of which is limited by a uniform network of crosslinking points.

The organopolysiloxane elastomers used in the composition of the present invention are preferably partially or fully crosslinked. They come in the form of particles.

These particles can have any shape, for example, they can be spherical, flat or amorphous. When included in an oily phase, these organopolysiloxane elastomers transform, depending on the content of oily phase used, into a product with a spongy appearance when used in the presence of small quantities of oily phase, or into a homogeneous gel in the presence of larger quantities of oily phase. The gelation of the oily phase with these elastomers can be total or partial.

Thus, the elastomers of the present invention can be delivered in the form of an anhydrous gel consisting of an organopolysiloxane elastomer and an oil phase. The oily phase used in the manufacture of the anhydrous organopolysiloxane elastomer gel contains one or more oils which are liquid at room temperature (25°C) chosen from hydrocarbon oils and/or silicone oils.

Advantageously, the oily phase is a liquid silicone phase, containing one or more oils chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes containing a linear or cyclic chain, which are liquid at room temperature, optionally comprising a pendant alkyl or aryl chain or at the end of the chain.

The silicone elastomers used according to the present invention can be chosen from the crosslinked polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 295 886 and from those described in patent US-A-5 266 321.

Non-emulsifying silicone elastomers

The term “non-emulsifying silicone elastomers” or “non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers which do not contain a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerol units.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer which can be obtained:

- by addition reaction by crosslinking of a diorganosiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups;

- by addition reaction by crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to silicon and a diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst;

- by addition reaction by crosslinking of a diorganosiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to silicon and a diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin compound;

- by crosslinking condensation reaction by dehydrogenation between a diorganopolysiloxane having hydroxyl terminal groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin compound;

- by condensation reaction by crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane having hydroxyl terminal groups and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane;

- by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, particularly in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; And

- by crosslinking an organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

Preferably, the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction:

a compound (A) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a different silicon atom, and

of a compound (B) of a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst (C), as described, for example, in application EP-A-295 886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and a methylhydrogenopolysiloxane having trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of an organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by an addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

Compound (A) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C ₂ -C ₄ ); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propylene groups.

These lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. Organopolysiloxane (A) can have branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure, but straight chain structure is preferred. Compound (A) can have a viscosity ranging from liquid to gum state.

Preferably, compound (A) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

The organopolysiloxanes (A) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane copolymers having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinyl copolymers siloxane having terminal dimethylvinylsiloxy groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxanes having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and dimethylsiloxane/methyl copolymers (3, 3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane having terminal dimethylvinylsiloxy groups.

Compound (B) is, in particular, an organopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded hydrogens in each molecule and is therefore the crosslinking agent of compound (A).

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (A) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon per molecule of compound (B) is at least 4.

Compound (B) may have any molecular structure, including a straight chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (B) may have a viscosity, at 25°C, ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular in order to be highly miscible with compound (A).

It is advantageous for compound (B) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in compound (B) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (A) is between 1/1 and 20/1.

Compound (B) may be chosen from methylhydropolysiloxanes having trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers having trimethylsiloxy terminal groups and cyclic dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid/olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid/alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid/diketone complexes, platinum black and plate on support.

Other organic groups may be linked to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A) and (B) described above, such as, for example, alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropylene or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xyl groups; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

In particular, the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name). ), and their mixtures.

In certain embodiments, the silicone elastomer may be conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in particular in patents EP 242,219, EP 285,886 and EP 765,656.

The silicone elastomer is generally supplied in the form of a gel, paste or powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone) or cyclic silicone oil (e.g. e.g.: cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

Non-emulsifying elastomers which may be more particularly used include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 by Dow Corning and SFE 839 by General Electric.

According to a particular mode, use is made of a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list including cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone , phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt, optionally modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

Mention may be made in particular of compounds bearing the following INCI names: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as USG-105 and USG-107A from the company Shin-Etsu; DC9506 and DC9701 from Dow Corning; dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from Shin-Etsu; dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) cyclopentasiloxane, such as KSG-15; cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9040, DC9045 and DC5930 from Dow Corning; dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9041 from Dow Corning. dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt));

C _4-24 alkyl dimethicone/divinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA from Alzo.

Mention may in particular be made, as examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil which can advantageously be used according to the present invention, of the following references: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as KSG -6 and KSG-16 from the Shin-Etsu company; dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9041, Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning Company.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles can also be used in powder form: mention may be made in particular of the powders sold under the names Dow Corning 9505 Powder and Dow Corning 9506 Powder by the company Dow Corning, powders having the INCI name: dimethicone /vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

The organopolysiloxane powder can also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Patent No. 5,538,793. These elastomeric powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu and bearing the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.

As examples of organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin which can advantageously be used according to the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the reference KSP-100 from the company Shin-Etsu.

As a preferred lipophilic gelling agent of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may be made in particular of the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name). INCI name), DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name).

It is preferable that the non-emulsifying silicone elastomers are chosen from dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone crosslinked polymer and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, silicone elastomers bearing the INCI name dimethicone/vinyldimethicone copolymer (or polysilicone-11) are used in mixture with linear or cyclic silicone oil.

According to the present invention, the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.01% by weight to approximately 40% by weight, preferably from approximately 1% by weight to approximately 30% by weight, or from about 5% by weight to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Emulsifying Silicone Elastomers

The term "emulsifier" of "emulsifying silicone elastomer" means that the silicone elastomer is capable of emulsifying or has an emulsifying function.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer of the present invention may be a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrophilic chain, knowing that this chain may in particular be oxyalkylenated or glycerylated. The emulsifying silicone elastomer can therefore be chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain and/or at least one glyceryl chain.

It is preferable that the emulsifying silicone elastomer comprises at least one silicone polymer crosslinked with at least one hydrophilic fraction. The hydrophilic fraction may comprise at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and/or at least one polyglyceryl chain.

The silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain can be obtained in particular by addition reaction and crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon (A1), and of a polyoxyalkylene having at least two groups ethylenically unsaturated (B1), in particular in the presence of a catalyst (C1), in particular a platinum catalyst, as described for example in the documents U.S. Patent No. 5,236,986 and U.S. Patent No. 5,412,004.

Compound (A1) is the base compound for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and crosslinking takes place via an addition reaction of compound (A1) with compound (B1) in the presence of catalyst (C1).

Compound (B1) is advantageously an oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated compound containing at least two vinyl groups in the α-ω position of the silicone chain, which will react with Si-H bonds of compound (A1). The compound (B1) may in particular be a polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) containing dimethylvinylsiloxy terminal groups.

The organic groups linked to the silicon atoms of compound (A1) may be alkyl groups containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

The compound (A1) can therefore be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers and di-methylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxanelaurylmethyl-siloxane copymers containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups. .

The compound (C1) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is in particular chosen from chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

In particular, the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) containing dimethylvinylsiloxy terminal groups and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, in the presence of a catalyst. to platinum.

The silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain, used according to the present invention, is preferably a silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain.

In addition, the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain is preferably carried in gel form in at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or a silicone oil.

Thus, the emulsifying silicone elastomer can take the form of a gel. In these gels, the elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain is generally in the form of non-spherical particles.

Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers have been particularly described in the documents US Patent No. 5,236,986, US Patent No. 5,412,004, US Patent No. 5,837,793, and US Patent 5,811,487, the contents of which are incorporated as reference.

As silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain, use may be made in particular of those sold by the company Shin Etsu under the names of

Dimethicone/PEG-10 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-21 (27% in terms of active ingredient),

PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-20 (100% active ingredient,

Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-210 (25% active ingredient of silicone elastomer in silicone oil),

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-240,

Mineral oil (and) PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-310,

Isododecane (and) PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-320,

Isododecane (and) PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-320Z,

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-350Z,

Dimethicone (and) PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as those sold under the names KSG-360Z and KSG-380Z (25-45% in terms of silicone elastomer active ingredient in silicone oil) , or those sold by the Dow Corning company under the names of

PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name DC9010 (at 11% active ingredient), and

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-12 Dimethicone crosspolymer such as that sold under the name DC9011 (91% active ingredient).

These products generally come in the form of oily gels containing silicone elastomer particles.

It is preferable to use Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, such as that sold as KSG-210, PEG/15 lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as that sold as KSG-320, and PEG-15 /lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-380Z.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer can also be chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one glyceryl chain.

The silicone elastomer comprising at least one glyceryl chain can be obtained in particular by addition reaction and crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon (A2) and a polyglyceryl compound having ethylenically unsaturated groups (B2 ), especially in the presence of a catalyst (C2), in particular a platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a polyglyceryl compound containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is the base compound for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and crosslinking takes place via an addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B2) in the presence of catalyst (C2).

The compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. The compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25°C, ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular so as to be easily miscible with the compound (B2).

The organic groups linked to the silicon atoms of compound (A2) may be alkyl groups containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

The compound (A2) can therefore be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethyl-siloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups. .

The compound (B2) can be a polyglycerol compound corresponding to the formula (B'2) below:

in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, better still from 2 to 20, still better still from 2 to 10, and always better still from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3; and Gly designates:

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B2) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A2) is at least 4.

It is advantageous that the compound (A2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (A2) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B2) is in the range of 1:1 to 20:1.

The compound (C2) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is in particular chosen from chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably 1 to 100 parts by weight, as the clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount. of compounds (A2) and (B2).

The silicone elastomer comprising at least one glyceryl chain, used according to the present invention, is generally in the form of a gel mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or a silicone oil. In these gels, the elastomer comprising at least one glyceryl chain is commonly in the form of non-spherical particles.

These elastomers are described in particular in document WO-A-2004/024798.

As a silicone elastomer comprising at least one glyceryl chain, one can use those sold by the company Shin Etsu under the names of

Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-710 (containing 25% active ingredient),

Mineral oil (and) Lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-810,

Isododecane (and) Lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-820,

Triethylhexanoin (and) Lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-830, and

Squalane (and) Lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name KSG-840.

It is preferable that the emulsifying silicone elastomer is chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain and/or at least one glyceryl chain, and more preferably a silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain.

According to the present invention, the emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.01% by weight to approximately 5% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 3% by weight, or from about 0.2% by weight to about 2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Silicone oils

Here, “oil” means a compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As silicone oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

The silicone oil(s) may be selected from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.

Thus, the silicone oil may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

The volatile or non-volatile silicone may be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one moiety or an organofunctional group.

For example, the silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one selected organofunctional moiety or group. among poly(oxyalkylene) moieties or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl moieties or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxylated moieties or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl moieties or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate moieties or groups, acrylic moieties or groups, and oxazoline fractions.

1. les silicones cycliques tels que les polydialkylsiloxanes comprenant de 3 à 7, par exemple, de 4 à 5 atomes de silicium. Les exemples non limitatifs de ces siloxanes incluent l’octaméthylcyclotétrasiloxane commercialisé, par exemple, sous le nom commercial VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 par UNION CARBIDE et SILBIONE® 70045 V2 par RHODIA, le décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane commercialisé sous le nom commercial VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 par UNION CARBIDE, et SILBIONE® 70045 V5 par RHODIA, KF-995 par SHIN ETSU, ainsi que leurs mélanges. Les cyclométhicones peuvent également être utilisés, par exemple, ceux commercialisés sous les références DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345 et DC 246 par DOW CORNING. Des cyclocopolymères du type diméthylsiloxane/méthylalkylsiloxane peuvent également être utilisés, tels que SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 commercialisé par UNION CARBIDE, de formule

If the silicone oil(s) is(are) volatile, the silicone oil(s) may be chosen from those whose boiling point ranges from 60°C to 260°C, for example:

1. cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for example, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of these siloxanes include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold, for example, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, KF-995 by SHIN ETSU, as well as their mixtures. Cyclomethicones can also be used, for example, those sold under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type can also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula

in which :

Combinations of cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes with organic silicon-derived compounds can also be used, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1-oxy ,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane; And

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold, for example, under the trade name “SH-200” by TORAY SILICONE.

On the other hand, the silicone oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and organomodified polysiloxanes.

The molecular weight of the silicone, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, has an average molecular weight (M _w ) of 300,000 or more, preferably 350,000 or more, more preferably 400,000 or more, and preferably 3,000 000 or less, more preferably 2,000,000 or less, even more preferably 1,000,000 or less.

According to one embodiment, the silicone oil can be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups known under the trade name dimethicone.

The preferred silicone oil according to the present invention may be polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, such as oils having a viscosity at 25°C greater than 1,000,000 cSt (mm ² /s), even more preferably a higher viscosity at 2,000,000 cSt, and even more particularly greater than 5,000,000 cSt, better still greater than 10,000,000 cSt and preferably less than 50,000,000 cSt, better still less than 30,000,000 cSt, always better still less than 15 000,000 cSt.

According to the present invention, all polydimethylsiloxanes can be used as such or in the form of solutions, emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to these polydialkylsiloxanes include BY22-029 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; nonionic dimethicone oil emulsion), BY22-060 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co. , Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), BY22-019 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; nonionic and cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with cyclic silicone), BY22-020 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with light liquid isoparaffin) , KM902 (products of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd; nonionic emulsion of highly polymerized dimethicone), KM903 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), X-52-2127 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. ; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), X-52-2162 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; nonionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), EMU101 (product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.; non-ionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), XS65-B3803 (product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.; nonionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), DC 7-3100 (product of Dow Corning Toray Silicone, Co., Ltd.).

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes can be chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes.

Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following trade names:

SILBIONE® fluids from the 70 641 range from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® fluids from the 70 633 and 763 ranges from RHODIA; the phenyltrimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;

silicones from the BAYER PK range, for example the PK20 product;

silicones from the PN and PH ranges from BAYER, for example, the PN1000 and PH 1000 products; and certain SF range fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The organomodified silicones which can be used according to the present invention include, without limitation, silicones such as those defined above and comprising at least one moiety or an organofunctional group linked directly or by means of a hydrocarbon group within of their structure.

Organo-modified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy fractions optionally comprising C ₆ - C ₂₄ alkyl fractions, such as products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, and the fluids L 711 marketed by UNION CARBIDE and (Ci2) alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200; alkoxylated fractions, such as the product sold under the trade name “SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434, and 2440 by GOLDSMIDT; hydroxylated fractions, such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function described; for example, polyorganosiloxanes described in US Patent No. 4,957,732; anionic fractions of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and anionic alkyl carboxylic fractions, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names “ABIL® S201” and “ABIL® S255”; acrylic fractions, such as products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M; and oxazoline fractions

the silicones which can be used according to the present invention may comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). Products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 can also be used.

Polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups can also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 range fluids marketed by RHODIA.

If the silicone oil(s) is/are volatile, the silicone oil(s) may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and organomodified polydimethylsiloxanes.

It is preferable that the silicone oil is chosen from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups which are pendant and/or at or at the end(s) of the silicone chain, which groups contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and organomodified silicones such as dimethiconol.

It is possible to use a combination of silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of such combinations include a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for example, under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning, and a mixture of dimethicone and dimethiconol, for example, under the trade name MIRASIL D-DML LV A2 by Elkem Silicones.

On the other hand, the silicone oil or oils may be chosen from polysiloxanes comprising at least one terminal or pendant monovalent polyoxyalkylene group, which may be classified as polyoxyalkylene-modified silicones or polyether-modified silicones. The polysiloxanes may be polydimethylsiloxane.

Polyoxyalkylene-modified silicones or polyether-modified silicones can be represented by formula (1):

R ² ₃ SiO(R ² ₂ SiO) _p (R ² PESiO) _q SiR ² ₃ (1)

in which :

the R ² radicals, which are identical or different, designate a monovalent hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, aryl and aralkyl radicals having at most 10 carbon atoms;

p varies from 0 to 150, preferably from 0 to 100 and more preferably from 0 to 30;

q varies from 1 to 12, preferably from 1 to 10 and more preferably from 1 to 8;

the PE group polyether corresponds to the following formula (2):

-C _x H _2x (OC ₂ H ₄ ) _y (OC ₃ H ₆ ) _z OR ³ (2)

in which :

x varies from 1 to 8 and preferably varies from 2 to 4 and is more preferably equal to 3;

y is greater than 0;

z is greater than or equal to 0; the values of y and z being such that the total molecular weight of the polyoxyalkylene portion of the polyether PE group varies from 200 to 10000 and more preferably from 350 to 4000;

R ³ denotes hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group or a C ₂ -C ₈ acyl group.

It should be noted that, when z is different from 0, the polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene units can be randomly distributed along the polyether PE chain or distributed in sequences or distributed both in sequences and randomly.

Preferably, the R ² radicals are chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups and hexyl, phenyl and benzyl groups. More particularly, the R ² radicals are chosen from alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl or butyl groups. More particularly, they designate the methyl radical.

Preferably, the R ³ radicals are chosen from C ₁ - C ₄ alkyl groups and designate more particularly the methyl radical.

The polyether-modified silicones of formula (1) can be obtained according to the process described in US Patent No. 4,847,398.

It is preferable to use, among the polyether-modified silicones of formula (1), those of the following formula (1'):

Me ₃ SiO(MeSiO) _p (MePESiO) _q SiMe ₃ (1')

in which

p and q have the same values as those indicated above for formula (1),

Designates the methyl radical, and

PE designates:

-(CH ₂ ) ₃ (OC ₂ H ₄ ) _y (OC ₃ H ₆ ) _z OR ₃ (2')

Or

y and z have the same values as given above for formula (2), and

R ³ designates hydrogen or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group and more particularly the methyl radical.

Mention may be made, as other families of polyether-modified silicones which can be used according to the present invention, of branched silicones of formula (3) below:

(MeSiO) _q-2 [SiOMe ₂ ) _p/q OPE] _q (3)

where p and q have the same values as those indicated above in formula (1), Me means methyl and PE designates the group of formula (4) following:

-(OC ₂ H ₄ ) _y (OC ₃ H ₆ ) _z R ³ (4)

Or

y and z have the same values as given above in formula (2), and

R ³ designates a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group and more particularly the methyl radical.

It is of course possible to use a mixture of silicones of formula (1) and formula (3).

These polyether-modified silicones are sold, for example, by OSI under the trade names Silwet L-7210® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), Silwet L-7220® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol); Silwet L-7002®, Silwet L-7600® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), Silwet L-7604® (INCI name: PEG-8 Dimethicone), Silwet L-7605®, Silwet L-7607®, Silwet 1614, Silwet L-7657®, Silwet L-7200® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), Silwet L-7230®, Silsoft 305® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), Silsoft 820® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), Silsoft 880® ( INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone),

Examples of polyether-modified silicones include PEG-10 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-32 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/ 19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone is combined with PPG-5-buteth-5, for example, under the trade name KF 351 A from Shin Etsu.

In one embodiment, the silicone oils may be selected from polyether-modified silicone derivatives.

The water-soluble silicone derivative may be a water-soluble silicone in which at least one substituent is bonded to the polysiloxane backbone of the water-soluble silicone, preferably instead of a methyl group on the polydimethylsiloxane backbone. .

As a substituent, there may be mentioned, for example, an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, an alkoxyl group, an amino group and a hydroxyl group.

The alkyl group may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group. The alkyl group may be a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an i-propyl group and a butyl group. On the other hand, the alkyl group may be a cyclic C ₃ -C ₆ alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl group and a cyclohexyl group.

The alkenyl group may be a C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl group such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group and a hexenyl group.

The alkoxy group may be a C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy group such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group and a propoxy group.

The above substituent may be further substituted by at least one group such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group and an aromatic group such as a phenyl group.

As examples of polyether-modified silicone derivatives, mention may be made of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises more than one silicone oil, and one of the silicone oils is selected from polyether-modified silicones. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention includes dimethicones, dimethiconols and polyether-modified silicones as silicone oils.

According to the present invention, the silicone oil is present in an amount ranging from about 5% by weight to about 50% by weight, preferably from about 15% by weight to about 40% by weight, or about 18% by weight to approximately 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Assets

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one active ingredient, which preferably includes water-soluble active ingredients, consisting substantially of, or even consisting of, water-soluble active ingredients. The active ingredients are chosen from C-Glycoside compounds, plant extracts, peptides, flavonoids, vitamin C and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its salts, or mixtures thereof.

C-Glycoside Compounds

In particular, the composition of the present invention may comprise at least one C-Glycoside compound, in particular of the following general formula:

- R represents a saturated C ₁ to C ₁₀ alkyl radical, in particular C ₁ to C ₄ which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR'' ₂ , R'' ₂ being a radical saturated C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl,

- S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and/or furanose and series L and/or D, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more protected amine functional groups, and

_{- ​ ​ ​} (CH ₃ )- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or –CH(NH ₂ )- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

the S-CH ₂ -X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or β,

as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

The C-glycosides used for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear alkyl radical in C ₁ to C ₆ , in particular in C ₁ to C ₄ , preferably in C ₁ to C ₂ and better yet, a methyl radical.

Mention may in particular be made, among the alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention, of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.

According to one embodiment of the invention, a C-Glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and/or furanose and series L and/or D, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one free hydroxyl functional group and/or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R also retaining all of the above definitions.

Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be selected from the following elements: D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, acid D -glucuronic, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates the following elements: D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.

More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units can be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a bond 1-4 .

More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.

Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used for which:

- R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical, C ₁ - C ₄ c in particular a C ₁ - C ₂ alkyl radical, in particular a methyl radical;

- S represents a monosaccharide as described above and selected in particular from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

- X represents a group chosen from a group -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH ₂ ) and, preferably, a group -CH(OH)-.

Acceptable salts of the compounds described herein include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more groups of carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acids. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH) ₂ , NH ₄ OH, Mg(OH) ₂ or Zn(OH) ₂ , or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; mention may in particular be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. We can also mention lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.

Solvates which are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. We can cite, by way of example, solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

Of course, according to the invention, a C-Glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or mixed with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.

A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02/051828.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of non-limiting illustration, of the C-glycoside compounds which are particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds:

- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- C-α- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

- 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.

According to a specific embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) supplied in the form of a solution containing 75% by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol under the name MEXORYL SDL available from NOVEAL.

Plant extracts

Plant extracts which may be included in the composition of the present invention may include TUBER AESTIVUM EXTRACT, LEONTOPOD ALPINUM CALLUS SEED EXTRACT, VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) SEED EXTRACT, PTEROCARPUS MARSUPIUM BARK EXTRACT, EXTRACT WINE, PYRUS MALUS (APPLE) SEED EXTRACT, FAGUS SYLVATICA BUD EXTRACT, HYDROLYZED ADANSONIA DIGITATATA EXTRACT, ARTEMIA EXTRACT, IRIS FLORENTINA ROOT EXTRACT, MILTIORRHIZA SALVIA EXTRACT, ARABICA COFFEE EXTRACT, or their mixtures.

Plant extracts may also include Helianthus annulus extract such as Antiglyskin® from Silab, wine extracts such as powdered white wine extract on a maltodextrin carrier sold under the name “Dehydrated white wine 2F”. by Givaudan, a mixture of strawberry extract and marine glycogen such as Aglycal LS 8777® from Laboratoires Sériobiologique, a black tea extract such as Kombuchka® from Sederma, or mixtures thereof.

Plant extracts may also include a Cassia alata leaf extract sold under the name DN-Age™ and/or a lychee extract sold under the name Litchiderm™, a combination of Salvia miltiorhizza extract and niacinamide, sold under the name CollRepair™, an extract of Cichorium intybus sold under the name Lox-Age™, an extract of Achillea millefolium sold under the name Neurobiox™, an extract of Polygonum bistotta sold under the name Perlaura™, an extract of Alpinia galangal sold under the name Hyalufix™, a corn extract sold under the name Deliner™, an extract of Voandzeia subterranea sold under the name Epigenist™, or mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of niacinamide and Salvia miltiorrhiza leaf extract, under the trade name COLLREPAIR DG BC10036, available from BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION.

Peptides

The peptides which may be included in the composition of the present invention may include the glycine-histidine-lysine tripeptide palmitoyl such as that sold under the name "Biopeptide CL" by the company Sederma; palmitoyl of the hexapeptide valine-glycine-valine-alanine-proline-glycine such as that sold under the name “Biopeptide EL” by the company Sederma; the hexapeptide glutamic acid-glutamic acid-methionine-glutamic acid-arginine-arginine, the first (N-terminal) being acetylated and the last (C-terminal) being amidated, such as sold under the name Argireline by the company Lipotec; the pentapeptide palmitoyl lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine sold in particular under the name “Matrixyl” by the company Sederma; the dipeptide N-β-alanine-L-histidine as sold under the name “Carnoine” by the company Carlbiotech; carcinine hydrochloride (sold by Exsymol under the name “Austin”); the glycine-glutamine-proline-arginine tetrapeptide palmitoyl, as sold under the name “Rigin” by the company Sederma; the hexadecyl ester of N-acetyl-tyrosine-arginine as sold under the name “Calmosensine” by the company Sederma; the pentapeptide palmitoyl lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine, as sold under the name "Palmitoyl-KTTKS" by the company Sederma; the hexapeptide lysine-leucine-aspartic acid-alanine-proline-threonine, as sold under the name “Peptide Vinci 02” by the company Vincience; the hexapeptide glycine-proline-glutamine-glycine-proline-glutamine, as sold under the name “Collaxyl” by the company Vincience; sold under the name “Amadorine” by the company Solabia; the hexadecyl ester of N-acetyl-tyrosine-arginine, as sold under the name “Sensicalmine” by the company Sederma; copper complex, such as that sold under the name “Hyamin” by the company Procyte or their mixtures;

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises palmitoyl tripeptides, palmitoyl tetrapeptides, carnosines or mixtures thereof.

Flavonoids

The flavonoid which may be included in the composition of the present invention may be a flavanone (2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Flavones include: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, poncirin, sakuranetin, sakuranin, and sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one. Flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadedrin, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbin and fustin. The flavonoid may be a flavone (derived from 2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: apigenin, luteolin, tangeritin, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarein, wogonin, synthetic flavones: diosmin and flavoxate. -hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azaleatin, fisetin, galangin, gossypetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, natsudain, pachypodol, quercetin, rhamnazine, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, isoquercitin, kaempferitrin, myricitrin, quercitrin, robinin, rutin, spiraeoside, xanthorhamnin, amurensin, icariin and troxerutin The flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen derivatives). -3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, mesquitol and robinetinidol. The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (derived from 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and luteoforol. The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (3-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, Biochanin A, Formononetin, and the daidzein metabolite Equol.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of N-hydroxysuccinimide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Chrysin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Biotin, under the trade name HALOXYL, available from SEDERMA (CRODA ).

Vitamin C and its derivatives

The vitamin C which may be included in the composition of the present invention may have a D or L configuration, and the L configuration is preferably employed. Vitamin C is also called ascorbic acid and has the effect of inhibiting melanin production due to the powerful reducing effects of ascorbic acid. The ascorbic acid derivatives may be ascorbic acid salts, and the ascorbic acid salts are preferably chosen from sodium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. Ascorbic acid derivatives may be ascorbic acid glycosides or ascorbic acid esters. As an example of ascorbic acid glycosides, we can cite, for example, ascorbyl glucoside. Examples of ascorbic acid esters include, for example, silyl ascorbate, tocopheryl ascorbate and an alkyl ascorbate. As alkyl ascorbate, methyl ascorbate or ethyl ascorbate is preferably used. In particular, ascorbyl glucoside is preferable. Ascorbic acid or its derivatives can be used alone or in combination with two or more of its types.

As detailed examples of ascorbic acid derivatives include, for example, 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilyl ascorbate, which is commercially available as PRO-AA from Exsymol SAM ; dl-alpha-tocopheryl-2-l-ascorbyl phosphate, which is commercially available as SVITAL EPC from Senju Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. ; sodium ascorbyl phosphate, which is commercially available as Stay-C 50 from Roche; ascorbyl glucoside, which is commercially available from Hayashibara Biochemical Labs., Inc.; 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid; and the like.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, under the trade name SPECWHITE VCE, available from SPECCHEM INDUSTRY.

Hyaluronic acid and its salts

The composition of the present invention may comprise hyaluronic acid, and/or one of its salts.

Hyaluronic acid is a linear, non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.

According to the invention, the hyaluronic acid preferably has a number average molecular weight ranging from 500 Da to 10 MDa, and more particularly from 2 KDa to 2 MDa.

As examples of hyaluronic acid which is suitable for the present invention, mention may be made in particular of hyaluronic acids of animal origin, crosslinked or not, such as those marketed under the name Hylaform® by the company Genzyme, or hyaluronic acids. of genetic origin including those intended for superficial, periorbital or perioral wrinkles, such as those marketed under the name Restylane Fine Lines® by the Q-Med laboratory, or intended for deep wrinkles, depressions in the lips and chin of the face, such as those marketed under the names Perlane® and Restylane Sub-Q® by the Q-Med laboratory. Preferably, as examples of hyaluronic acid which is suitable for the present invention, we can mention those marketed under the name Restylane® by the Q-Med laboratory and under the name Surgiderm® by the Corneal laboratory.

We can also mention low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50 kDa) supplied by Evonik under the name Hyacare 50®, and sodium hyaluronate supplied by GIVAUDAN under the trade name RENOVHYAL LO (Mw=20 to 50 kDa).

Among the salts of hyaluronic acid, we can in particular mention sodium salts, potassium salts, zinc salts, silver salts and their mixtures. More particularly, as examples of hyaluronic acid salts, potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate, preferably sodium hyaluronate, may be mentioned.

Preferably, the hyaluronic acid of the composition according to the invention is present in salified form, preferably in the form of sodium hyaluronate.

In one embodiment, the active ingredients included in the composition of the present invention include PRO-XYLANE™ and/or HALOXYL™, and preferably PRO-XYLANE™, for example hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol under the name MEXORYL SDL available from NOVEAL .

According to the present invention, the active ingredients are present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.01% by weight to approximately 40% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 20% by weight, or approximately 1% by weight% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Solvents

Generally, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one solvent. Hereinafter, the term "solvent" in this application does not include the above silicone oils.

The solvent included in the composition of the present invention comprises one or more compounds miscible in water or at least partially miscible in water, in particular pure water.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention does not include oil-soluble solvents or organic solvents other than the above silicone oils. In one embodiment, the solvent included in the composition of the present invention consists of water.

Advantageously, the solvent is present in an amount ranging from approximately 25% by weight to approximately 90% by weight, preferably from approximately 30% by weight to approximately 85% by weight, or from approximately 40% by weight to approximately 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other ingredients

The composition of the present invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants or conventional additives, for example perfumes, preservatives (e.g. chlorophenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (e.g. citric acid), thickeners such as xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

Those skilled in the art can choose the quantity of adjuvants or additional additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

Compositions

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition for skin care, and in particular for care of the skin around the eyes. Preferably, the composition of the present invention is an anti-aging and anti-glycation composition.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to an anti-aging and anti-glycation composition, comprising silicone elastomers, including at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer; at least one silicone oil; and more than one active ingredient including water-soluble active ingredients, the weight ratio of emulsifying silicone elastomer to non-emulsifying silicone elastomer ranging from about 1:35 to about 1:10, preferably about 1:30 to about 1:15, or from about 1:28 to about 1:20. Silicone elastomers, silicone oils and actives are defined above.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion for skin care around the eyes, comprising silicone elastomers, including at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer. ; and more than one anti-aging and anti-glycation active ingredient, including water-soluble active ingredients, the weight ratio between the emulsifying silicone elastomer and the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer ranging from approximately 1:35 to about 1:10, preferably about 1:30 to about 1:15, or about 1:28 to about 1:20. Silicone elastomers, silicone oils and active ingredients are defined above.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion for skin care around the eyes, comprising silicone elastomers, including at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer. ; and more than one anti-aging and anti-glycation active ingredient, including water-soluble active ingredients, the weight ratio between the emulsifying silicone elastomer and the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer ranging from approximately 1:30 to about 1:15, or from about 1:28 to about 1:20, the oil-in-water emulsion further comprising an amount of from about 40% by weight to about 80% by weight of water, based on to the total weight of the composition, and the active ingredients include PRO-XYLANE™. Silicone elastomers, silicone oils and active ingredients are defined above.

According to the above embodiments, preferably, said at least one silicone oil comprises a first silicone oil and/or a second silicone oil, and the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer exists in the form of a mixture with the first silicone oil before being added to the composition and/or the emulsifying silicone elastomer exists in the form of a mixture with the second silicone oil before being added to the composition. More preferably, the silicone oil further comprises a third silicone oil, the third silicone oil being the same as the first and/or the second silicone oil or different therefrom. In one embodiment, the third silicone oil comprises one or more polyether-modified silicones and/or neither the first nor the second silicone oil comprises polyether-modified silicones. All of the first, second and third silicone oils are defined as those mentioned in the “silicone oils” section.

Still preferably, the third silicone oil is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1% by weight to about 15% by weight, or about 2% by weight to about 10% by weight, e.g. approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Combinations

According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a combination for improving the sensation on the skin during and after the application of a cosmetic product, in particular the cosmetic product comprising anti-aging and anti-glycation active ingredients, comprising, consisting substantially made of, or even consisting of, silicone elastomers, including at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer; and at least one silicone oil, the weight ratio between the emulsifying elastomer and the non-emulsifying elastomer ranging from approximately 1:35 to approximately 1:10, preferably from approximately 1:30 to approximately 1:15, or from about 1:28 to about 1:20, and the actives are anti-aging and anti-glycation actives, including, consisting substantially of, or even consisting of, water-soluble active ingredients. Silicone elastomers, silicone oils and active ingredients are defined above.

Process and use

According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method of caring for the skin, in particular the skin around the eyes, by applying the composition of the present invention to the skin.

In one embodiment, the process comprises the following steps in order, washing the skin, drying the skin and applying the composition of the present invention to the skin, and optionally massaging the skin for about 2 seconds at about 20 seconds.

In one embodiment, before or after applying the composition of the present invention to the skin, one or more compositions, e.g. those for skin care, skin whitening and sunscreen may also be applied .

According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a combination to improve the sensation on the skin during and after the application of a cosmetic product, in particular the cosmetic product comprising anti-aging and anti-aging active ingredients. glycation, in which the combination comprises, consists substantially of, or even consists of silicone elastomers, including at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer; and at least one silicone oil, and in which the weight ratio between the emulsifying elastomer and the non-emulsifying elastomer ranges from approximately 1:35 to approximately 1:10, preferably from approximately 1:30 to approximately 1: 15, or from about 1:28 to about 1:20, and the actives are anti-aging and anti-glycation actives including, consisting substantially of, or even consisting of water-soluble active ingredients. Silicone elastomers, silicone oils and active ingredients are defined above.

The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations.

EXAMPLES

The main raw materials used, trade names and their supplier are listed in Table 1.

INCI name Trade name Supplier AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE HOSTACERIN AMPS CLARIANT PEG-11 METHYL ETHER DIMETHICONE (and) PPG-5-BUTETH-5 KF 351 A SHIN ETSU PEG-12 DIMETHICON XIAMETER OFX-0193 FLUID DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) DIMETHICONE (and) POLYSILICONE-11 GRANSIL DMG-6LC GRANT INDUSTRIES DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE/PEG-10/15 CROSSPOLYMER KSG-210 SHIN ETSU DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL MIRASIL D-DML LV A2 ELKEM SILICONES HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL MEXORYL SDL NOVEAL 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID SPECWHITE VCE SPECCHEM INDUSTRY

Inventive Example A and Comparative Examples B-D

The compositions according to the inventive formula Ex.A and the comparative formulas EC. B-D were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents were expressed as percentages by weight of the ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated, and Table 2 listed only the main components of the compositions, and therefore the compositions may include other minor components):

Phase Component Ingredient Example A EC.B EC.C EC.D EC.E EC.F HAS WATER Qs for 100 Qs for 100 Qs for 100 Qs for 100 Qs for 100 Qs for 100 B AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 VS PEG-11 METHYL ETHER DIMETHICONE (and) PPG-5-BUTETH-5 PEG-11 METHYL ETHER DIMETHICONE 0.54 0.54 / 0.54 0.54 0.54 PPG-5-BUTETH-5 0.06 0.06 / 0.06 0.06 0.06 PEG-12 DIMETHICON PEG-12 DIMETHICON 0.6 0.6 / 0.6 0.6 0.6 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL DIMETHICON 2.64 2.64 / 2.64 2.64 2.64 DIMETHICONOL 0.36 0.36 / 0.36 0.36 0.36 D DIMETHICONE (and) POLYSILICONE-11 DIMETHICON 17.64 17.64 17.64 8.4 17.64 25.2 POLYSILICONE-11 3.36 3.36 3.36 1.6 3.36 4.8 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE/PEG-10/15 CROSSPOLYMER DIMETHICON 0.37 / 0.37 0.37 1.11 0.37 DIMETHICONE/PEG-10/15 CROSSPOLYMER 0.125 / 0.125 0.125 0.375 0.125 F
HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID 0.105 0.105 0.105 0.105 0.105 0.105 weight ratio between POLYSILICONE-11 and DIMETHICONE/PEG-10/15 CROSSPOLYMER by calculation 26.88 / 26.88 12.8 8.96 38.4

Note: PEG-11 METHYL ETHER DIMETHICONE (and) PPG-5-BUTETH-5: 90% peg-11 methyl ether dimethicone; 10% ppg-5-buteth-5

DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL: 88% dimethicone; 12% dimethiconol

DIMETHICONE (and) POLYSILICONE-11: 84% dimethicone, 16% polysilicone-11

DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE/PEG-10/15 CROSSPOLYMER: 25% dimethicone/peg-10/15 cross-linked polymer, 74.28% dimethicone, 0.5% dipropylene glycol, 0.2% sodium citrate, 0.02% tocopherol.

Preparation procedure:

The compositions were prepared as follows:

1). addition of phase A in the main boiler, continued mixing under 75°C until all raw materials are dissolved into a clear liquid phase;

2). addition of phase B in the main boiler and use of a turbine to disperse it;

3). premixing phases C+D to form a continuous fluid paste;

4). addition of phases C+D in the main boiler and mixing of materials;

5). addition of Phase F and mixing of materials.

Performance of compositions

16 consumers aged 25 to 40 with all skin types were recruited. They remained at room temperature (around 25°C) and applied the test samples to their eye area, then answered questionnaires to give scores for skin adhesion, hydration and soft film.

[Table 3]

1^ersensory comparison test: Example A EC. B Stickiness 2 14 Humidity 13 3 Soft film 15 1

The data in Table 3 show that the composition of EC. B did not include emulsifying elastomers, in which 14 people felt that EC. B had a stickier feeling on the skin than Ex. A, while 13 people felt that Ex. It gave a more hydrated skin finish and 15 people felt that Ex. Offered a flexible film. We can therefore see that the composition of Ex. A effectively improved skin feel due to less adhesion, better hydration and soft film property of the compositions, compared to compositions that did not include emulsifying elastomers.

[Table 4]

2^thsensory comparison test: Example A EC. VS Stickiness 4 12 Humidity 11 5 Soft film 10 6

From the data in Table 4, it can be seen that the composition of EC. C did not include any additional silicone oils other than those in the mixture with the elastomers, while 12 people felt that EC. C had a stickier feeling on the skin than the Ex. While 11 people felt that Ex. It gave a more hydrated skin finish and 10 people felt that Ex. Offered a flexible film. We can therefore see that the composition of Ex. A effectively improved the feel on the skin due to less adhesion, more hydration and a soft film property of the compositions, compared to the compositions which did not include additional silicone oils.

[Table 5]

3^thsensory comparison test: Example A EC. D Stickiness 1 15 Humidity 13 3 Soft film 12 4

From the data in Table 5, it could be seen that the composition of EC. D included a lower quantity of non-emulsifying elastomer than Ex. A, in which 15 people felt that EC. D had a stickier skin feel than Ex. A, while 13 people felt that Ex. It gave a more hydrated skin finish and 12 people felt that Ex. Offered a flexible film. We can therefore see that the composition of Ex. A effectively improved the feel on the skin with less adhesion, more hydration and a soft film property of the compositions, compared to the compositions which did not include the specific ratio between the non-emulsifying elastomer and the emulsifying elastomer of the present invention.

[Table 6]

4^thsensory comparison test: Example A EC. E Stickiness 4 12 Humidity 12 4 Soft film 13 3

From the data in Table 6, it could be seen that the composition of EC. E included a greater quantity of emulsifying elastomer than that of Ex. A, where 12 people felt that EC. E had a stickier skin feel than Ex. A, while 12 people felt that Ex. It offered a more hydrated skin finish and 13 people felt that the Ex. Offered a flexible film. We can therefore see that the composition of Ex. A effectively improved the feel on the skin with less adhesion, more hydration and a soft film property of the compositions, compared to the compositions which did not include the specific ratio between the non-emulsifying elastomer and the emulsifying elastomer of the present invention.

[Table 7]

5^thsensory comparison test: Example A EC. F Stickiness 6 10 Humidity 10 6 Soft film 12 4

From the data in Table 7, it could be seen that the composition of EC. F included a greater quantity of non-emulsifying elastomer than that of Ex. A, where 10 people felt that EC. F had a stickier skin feel than Ex. A, while 10 people felt that Ex. It gave a more hydrated skin finish and 12 people felt that Ex. Offered a flexible film. We can therefore see that the composition of Ex. A effectively improved the feel on the skin with less adhesion, more hydration and a soft film property of the compositions, compared to the compositions which did not include the specific ratio between the non-emulsifying elastomer and the emulsifying elastomer of the present invention.

Additionally, when formulating the composition of the EC. F, it was found that this composition even provided a greater volume and that it was therefore difficult to spread this composition.

Claims (10)

Care composition of keratinous material, in particular anti-aging and anti-glycation composition, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising
(a) silicone elastomers, of which
(a1) at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and
(a2) at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer;
(b) at least one silicone oil; And
(c) at least one active ingredient, which preferably includes water-soluble active ingredients,
in which the weight ratio between the emulsifying silicone elastomer and the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer varies from 1:35 to 1:10, preferably from 1:30 to 1:15, or from 1:28 to 1:20 . A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one silicone oil includes a first silicone oil and/or a second silicone oil, and the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is present as a mixture with the first silicone oil. before being added to the composition and/or the emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in the form of a mixture with the second silicone oil before being added to the composition; said at least one silicone oil further includes a third silicone oil, and the third silicone oil is identical to the first and/or the second silicone oil or different from both. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the emulsifying silicone elastomer is chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain and/or at least one glyceryl chain; is preferably selected from the group consisting of dimethicone/PEG-10 dimethicone crosslinked polymer vinyl dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, polymer cross-linked PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, cross-linked polymer PEG-12 dimethicone, cross-linked polymer dimethicone/polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is selected from the group consisting of cross-linked dimethicone polymer, cross-linked vinyl dimethicone polymer, cross-linked dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone polymer, cross-linked dimethicone polymer- 3 and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which all of the first, second and third silicone oils are chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one fraction or one organofunctional group, including silicones polyether modified; preferably, are chosen from the group consisting of dimethicones, dimethiconols, PEG-10 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-32 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/ 19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, and mixtures thereof . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the active ingredient is chosen from the group consisting of C-Glycoside compounds, plant extracts, peptides, flavonoids, vitamin C and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its salts, and mixtures. of these ; preferably, is chosen from the group consisting of Tuber Aestivum extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus culture extract, carnosines, Salvia Miltiorrhiza leaf extract, polypeptides or oligopeptides, niacinamides, chrysins, biotins, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriols, ascorbic acids, hyaluronic acid and/or sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, or from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Combination for improving the sensation on the skin during and after the application of a cosmetic, comprising, consisting substantially of, or even consisting of
(a) silicone elastomers, of which
(a1) at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and
(a2) at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and
(b) at least one silicone oil, and
in which the weight ratio between the emulsifying elastomer and the non-emulsifying elastomer varies from 1:35 to 1:10, preferably from 1:30 to 1:15, or from 1:28 to 1:20, and the active ingredient preferably includes water-soluble active ingredients. Combination according to claim 8, in which the emulsifying silicone elastomer is chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain and/or at least one glyceryl chain; is preferably chosen from the group consisting of cross-linked polymer dimethicone/PEG-10 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone, cross-linked polymer PEG-10 dimethicone, cross-linked polymer dimethicone/PEG-10/15, cross-linked polymer PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone, cross-linked polymer PEG- 15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone cross-linked polymer, dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer, lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer and mixtures thereof, and/or the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is selected from the group consisting of cross-linked dimethicone polymer, cross-linked vinyl dimethicone polymer, cross-linked dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone polymer, cross-linked dimethicone-3 polymer, and mixtures thereof. Combination according to claim 8 or 9, in which the silicone oil is chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organofunctional moiety or group, including polyether-modified silicones; preferably, is chosen from the group consisting of dimethicones, dimethiconols, PEG-10 methylether dimethicone, PEG-11 methylether dimethicone, PEG-32 methylether dimethicone, PEG/PPG/18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone and mixtures thereof.