FR3136372A1 - COMPOSITION AND USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITION AND USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a new cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) a UV filter system; and (b) an emollient system. The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITION AND USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) a UV filter system; and (b) an emollient system. The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Photoprotection of keratinous materials, including skin and hair, is considered of great importance to protect against sun damage, sunburn, photoaging, as well as to reduce the risk of developing cancer. damage to the skin caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. There are generally two types of UVA/UVB cosmetic sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.

The degree of anti-UV protection allowed by a cosmetic sunscreen composition is directly linked to the quantity and type of UV filters contained therein. In particular, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must offer good protection against the sun's rays, the measure of which is the Protection Index (PI) value, a desirable balance between UVA and UVB protection, in particular a protection factor Minimal UVA, while having a satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but non-greasy feel upon application.

Widely used UV filters include octrocrylene and homosalate. However, concerns have been raised about the use of these UV filters in cosmetic sunscreen compositions, as these raw materials are having their environmental effects studied more extensively, particularly with regard to biodegradation difficulties. . Furthermore, these UV filters are also questioned in terms of human health and aquatic organisms.

Replacing octocrylene and homosalate in a cosmetic sunscreen composition is not an easy task, because these UV filters also play the role of emollients in the final composition, which affects the stability of the whole of the composition. Attempts to compensate for the removal of these UV filters by increasing the amount of UV filters remaining in the composition have proven insufficient. Additional modifications are necessary to obtain a stable composition.

Therefore, there is a need for a new cosmetic sunscreen without octocrylene and homosalate UV filters, which retains good cosmetic properties such as high IP, is not heavy on the skin and can control and reduce the character oiliness of the skin after their application, leaving the skin with a matte finish, which is stable.

Additionally, it is also desirable to eliminate titanium dioxide from cosmetic sunscreen compositions, as this ingredient is associated with the formation of a white film on the skin, after application of the cosmetic composition.

That being said, the objective of this invention is to provide a stable cosmetic sunscreen composition without octocrylene and homosalate UV filters, preferably without titanium dioxide, with high IP.

The inventors of the present application have surprisingly succeeded in developing such a new cosmetic sunscreen composition by combining a UV filter system with an emollient system.

The present invention relates to new cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising

(a) a UV filter system comprising phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyltriazone, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate; And

(b) an emollient system comprising isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate and diisopropyl sebacate.

The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will emerge from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrate, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In one embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises:

(a) a UV filter system comprising phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, benzoate hydroxybenzoyl hexyl, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate; And

(b) an emollient system comprising isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate and diisopropyl sebacate

In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the UV filter system of the present invention ranges from about 15.0 to about 31.0%, about 17.5 to about 27.5%, about 20, 0 to about 25.0 weight percent, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, said UV filter system comprises about 1.0 to about 3.0 weight percent phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, about 3.0 to about 5.5 weight percent salicylate of ethylhexyl, from about 0.5 to about 1.5% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, from about 3.0 to about 5.0% by weight of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, from about 3.0 to about 5.0% by weight of about 4.5% by weight of ethylhexyl triazone, about 3.0 to about 6.0% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, about 0.5 to about 2.5% by weight of benzoate diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl, and about 1.0 to about 3.0 weight percent of methylene bis-benzotriazol tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, based on weight total composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the emollient system of the present invention ranges from about 5.0 to about 15.0%, about 7.5 to about 12.5%, about 9, 0 to about 11.0 weight percent, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, said emollient system comprises from about 0.5 to about 3.0 wt.% isopropyl myristate, from about 2.0 to about 5.5 wt.% of isononyl isonanoate, and about 2.5 to about 7.5 weight percent diisopropyl sebacate, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition further comprises silica silylate, in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 2.5%, from about 0.2 to about 2.3%. , from about 0.3 to about 1.5%, from about 0.5 to about 1.0% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, compounds, fillers, fragrances, polymers, solvents, vitamins, additional UV filters, agents preservatives, surfactants and their mixtures.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention has a protection index (PI) ranging from 30 to 99, preferably from 40 to 80, more preferably about 80. In various embodiments, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may have a protection index of 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95 or 99.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may have a protection index of 80.

The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention can be used as a daily product for photoprotection of keratinous materials with high IP, dry feel, oil control and reduction, and good stability.

Terms

As used herein, the term "at least one" is interchangeable with "one or more" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate subranges. So a range of 1-5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value for inferring a subrange, etc.

The terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.

The compositions and methods of the present invention may include, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

The terms “un”, “une”, “le” and “la” are understood to include the plural and the singular. Thus, the expression “a mixture of” also concerns “mixtures of”. Throughout the disclosure, the expression "a mixture thereof" is used, after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof. » The phrase "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all elements A, B, C, D, E and F (although all elements A, B, C, D, E and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of elements A, B, C, D, E and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the formulation "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D , E and F”.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise noted.

Elsewhere than in the operational examples or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions must be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "approximately" which may include +/- 10 %, +/- 8%, +/- 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, +/- 1%, or +/- 0, 5%.

“Substituted,” as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

Likewise, the expression “a salt thereof” also refers to “salts thereof.” Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof", it indicates that a or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.

Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions is, however, not exhaustive.

All components and elements positively set forth in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the compositions of this disclosure may be free or substantially free of all components and elements positively cited throughout this disclosure.

All publications and patent applications cited herein are incorporated by reference, and for all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually stated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, this disclosure shall control.

Silica silylate

When present in the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention, silica silylate, which could also be referred to as "silica aerogel", is a porous material obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel by air. Silica aerogels are typically synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, such as, but not limited to, supercritical carbon dioxide (CO ₂ ). This type of drying helps prevent shrinkage of pores and material. The sol-gel process and various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

If present, silica silylate (e.g., hydrophobic silica silylate particles) has a specific surface area per unit mass (S _M ) ranging from about 500 to about 1500 m ² /g, or alternatively from approximately 600 to approximately 1200 m ² /g, or alternatively from approximately 600 to approximately 800 m ² /g, and a size expressed in average volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from approximately 1 to about 30 μm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 25 μm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 20 μm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 15 μm. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society , vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1. The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles considered.

Particle size can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as a Malvern MasterSizer 2000 machine. The data is processed based on Mie diffusion theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”) Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

The particles used in the present invention, if present, may advantageously have a packed (or tapped) density ranging from approximately 0.04 g/cm ³ to approximately 0.10 g/cm ^3, or alternatively of approximately 0.05 g/cm ³ to approximately 0.08 g/cm ³ . In the context of the present invention, this density, called packed density, can be assessed according to the following protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the graduated cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the graduated cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packing movements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured on the graduated cylinder. The packed density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this case 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm ³ and m in g).

According to one embodiment, the silica silylate particles have a specific surface area per unit volume S _V ranging from approximately 5 to approximately 60 m ² /cm ³ , or alternatively from approximately 10 to approximately 50 m ² /cm ³ , or alternatively from about 15 to about 40 m ² /cm ³ . The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: S _V = S _M .r where r is the packed density expressed in g/cm ³ and S _M is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m ² /g , as defined above.

In some embodiments, the silica silylate particles have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, ranging from about 5 to about 18 mL/g, or alternatively from about 6 to about 15 mL/g, or alternatively from about 8 to about 12 mL/g. The oil absorption capacity measured at the wetting point, noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of water which must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. Wp is measured according to the wetting point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. Wp corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wetting point, described below: A quantity = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isonanoate) is then added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is carried out using a spatula, and the addition of oil continues until a conglomerate of oil and powder was formed. At this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated using the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth dough is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. We then note the volume Vs (expressed in mL) of oil used. The oil intake corresponds to the Vs/m ratio.

In the context of the present invention, silica silylate is "hydrophobic silica", that is to say any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes , siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups. The preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles that have been surface modified by silylation is found in U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725, incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment, hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable.

Suitable examples of hydrophobic silica silylate may include, but are not limited to, the aerogels sold under the trade names VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) and VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), both available from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Michigan). VM-2260 particles have an average size of approximately 1,000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g. VM-2270 particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g. Another suitable example of a hydrophobic silica airgel may include, but is not limited to, the aerogels commercially available from Cabot Corporation (Billerica, Massachusetts) under the trade name Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, and Airgel TLD 203 , Enova Airgel MT 1100 and Enova Airgel MT 1200.

Additional UV filters

In addition to the UV filters present in the UV system of the present cosmetic sunscreen composition, said composition may comprise at least one additional UV filter selected from commonly used UV filters, excluding octocrylene and homosalate.

According to the present invention, the concentration of the at least one additional UV filter ranges from about 15.0 to about 35.0%, from about 16.0 to about 34.0%, from about 17.0 to approximately 33.0%, approximately 18.0 to approximately 32.0%, approximately 19.0 to approximately 31.0%, approximately 20.0 to approximately 21%, approximately 20.0 to approximately about 28.0%, about 21.0 to about 27.0%, about 22.0 to about 26.0%, about 23.0 to about 25.0% by weight, including all the intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Suitable UV filters of the present invention could be the following:

Oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient

By "oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient" is meant any organic compound intended to repel UV rays, which can be completely dissolved in molecular or miscible form in an oil phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (e.g. in micellar form) in an oily fatty phase.

Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071, US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screen polymers and screen silicones as described in patent application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from alkyl-styrene such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP1133981, merocyanine derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04/006878, WO 05/058269 and WO 06/032741; and mixtures thereof, the entire contents of the patents and patent applications being incorporated by reference in their entirety.

As examples of other suitable oil-soluble sunscreen ingredients, mention may be made of those listed below under their INCI name:

Cinnamic derivatives:

Examples of suitable cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:

Examples of suitable dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.

Salicylic derivatives:

Examples of suitable salicylic derivatives include, but are not limited to, dipropylene glycol salicylate and TEA salicylate.

Beta,beta-diphenylacrylate derivatives:

Examples of suitable beta-diphenylacrylate derivatives include, but are not limited to, etocrylene.

Benzophenone derivatives:

Examples of suitable benzophenone derivatives include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate or in mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate.

Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:

Examples of suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, manufactured 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, manufactured polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor.

Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:

Examples of suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion.

Triazine derivatives:

Examples of suitable triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate)¬s triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, the symmetrical triazine screening agents described in US patent 6,225,467, the application patent WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc., West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4, 6-tris(biphenyl)-1,3,5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, which are included in patent applications WO/06/035, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992 and WO 2006/034985).

Anthranilic derivatives:

An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, methyl anthranilate.

Imidazoline derivatives:

An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.

Benzalmalonate derivatives:

An example of a suitable benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, a polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for example polysilicone-15.

4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives:

An example of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1-Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenyl-butadiene.

Benzoxazole derivatives:

An example of a suitable benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(1-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof.

The oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of about 15.0 to about 25.0%, about 16.0 to about 24.0%. , from about 17.0 to about 23.0%, from about 18.0 to about 22.0%, from about 19.0 to about 21.0%, from about 20.0 to about 20, 5%, from about 20.0 to about 22.0%, from about 20.0 to about 25.0%, and preferably from about 18.0 to about 21.0%, by weight, based on to the total weight of the composition.

Water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient

By “water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” is meant any organic compound intended to repel UV radiation, which can be completely dissolved in molecular or miscible form in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (e.g. example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, 4-benzophenone, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4-bis(polyethoxy)-acid polyethoxyethyl ester. para-aminobenzoic acid (PEG-25 PABA), camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidole tetrasulfonate (bidisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine; derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European patent application EP1990372 A2, the entire content of which is incorporated herein by reference; and the cationic quaternary salts and derivatives of cinnamido amine as described in United States Patent 5,601,811, all of which is incorporated herein by reference, and mixtures thereof.

The salts of the compounds which can be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from alkali metal salts, for example sodium or potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for example salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts. The salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used. Sodium salt is preferably used.

The water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0. 5 to approximately 8.0% by weight, and most preferably approximately by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Ingredients

In addition to the essential components described above, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen in particular from active compounds, fatty compounds, fillers, perfumes, polymers, solvents, vitamins, preservatives, surfactants and their mixtures.

The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or deionized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and/or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, water from the Vichy basin, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water , water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Néris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizières, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux-Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water des Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avène. The water may also include reconstituted thermal water, that is to say water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.

Those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not significantly, compromised by the envisaged addition.

Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, C _10-30 alkyl acrylate/acrylate cross-linked polymers, styrene/acrylate copolymers, hydroxyethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.

A non-limiting example of a preservative which can be used in accordance with the invention includes phenoxyethanol.

Additional suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propanediol, denatured alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Suitable surfactants can be selected, among others, from potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and inulin lauryl carbamate.

In various embodiments, the solvent is present in a concentration of about 15 to 100% by weight, or about 25 to about 80% by weight, or about 30 to about 70% by weight, or about 35 to about 60% by weight, or preferably from about 40 to about 50% by weight, and more preferably from about 50 to about 55% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of this disclosure.

Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, triethanolamine and mixtures thereof.

The composition may include at least one dye/pigment, preferably iron oxides.

Example fatty or oily materials include, but are not limited to, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, stearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, diethylhexanoate of neopentyl glycol and their mixtures.

The composition may also include at least one filler, such as silica and/or cellulose.

Additional ingredients, not including solvents, may be from 17.0 to about 21.0%, such as 18.0 to about 20.0% or such as from 18.5 to about 20.0% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.

By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.

PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

A non-limiting example concerning the preparation of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention could be the following:

Stage (A): Main tank – hot oil phase including oil raw materials, preservatives, vitamins and emulsifiers at a temperature ranging from about 75°C to about 80°C;

Stage (B): Secondary tank – Aqueous phase at room temperature including aqueous raw materials;

Step (C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oil phase of step (A), followed by mixing; And

Step (D): the fillers are gradually added to the mixture obtained in step (C) and mixed until homogeneous, at a temperature below approximately 30°C.

Embodiments

An example of a suitable cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises:

- from approximately 22.0 to approximately 25.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate;

- from approximately 8.5 to approximately 11.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate and diisopropyl sebacate;

- from approximately 0.5 to approximately 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silica silylate;

- from approximately 30.0 to approximately 40.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of water; And

- from approximately 25.0 to approximately 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients chosen from active compounds, fatty compounds, fillers, perfumes, polymers, solvents, vitamins, additional UV filters, preservatives, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Another example of a sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise:

- from approximately 24.0 to approximately 31.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, methoxyphenyltriazine bis-ethylhexylphenol, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate;

- from approximately 7.0 to approximately 11.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate and diisopropyl sebacate;

- from approximately 30.0 to approximately 45.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of water, and

- from approximately 25.0 to approximately 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients chosen from active compounds, fatty compounds, fillers, perfumes, polymers, solvents, vitamins, preservatives, surfactants and their mixtures.

EXAMPLES Examples 1 to 6

A suitable composition according to the state of the art is in the form of Examples 1 to 3 and suitable cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are in the form of Examples 4 to 6, as follows:

Function Ingredient Ex.1 Ex.2 Ex.3 Ex.4 Ex.5 Ex.6 UV filter phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2.0
-
3.0 2.0
-
2.5 2.0
-
3.0 2.0
-
3.0 1.75
-
2.25 1.0
-
2.0 butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.5
-
3.0 2.5
-
3.0 3.0
-
3.5 3.0
-
4.5 3.75
-
4.5 4.0
-
5.0 ethylhexyl salicylate - 4.0
-
4.5 4.0
-
5.0 3.0
-
4.75 4.5
-
5.5 4.25
-
4.75 titanium dioxide 1.5 - - - - 0.75 ethylhexyl triazone 3.0 3.5
-
4.0 3.25
-
3.75 3.5
-
4.0 3.0
-
4.5 4.0
-
4.5 UV filter terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid 3.0
-
4.0 1.0
-
1.5 1.0
-
1.5 0.5
-
1.25 1.0
-
1.5 0.75
-
1.0 octocrylene 2.0
-
3.0 - - - - - homosalate 2.0
-
4.0 - - - - - bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 3.0
-
4.0 4.5
-
5.5 5.5
-
6.0 4.5
-
5.5 5.0
-
6.0 3.0
-
5.0 diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate - - 1.5
-
2.0 0.5
-
1.5 1.5
-
2.5 1.0
-
2.0 methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate) 2.0
-
3.5 2.0
-
3.0 1.5
-
2.5 1.25
-
2.75 1.0
-
2.0 2.0
-
3.0 Emollient isopropyl myristate - - - 0.5
-
2.0 2.0
-
2.5 2.5
-
3.0 isononyl isononanoate 4.0
-
5.0 4.0
-
5.5 4.5
-
5.5 2.0
-
4.0 3.5
-
5.0 4.0
-
5.5 diisopropyl sebacate 2.0
-
3.0 2.5
-
3.0 2.5
-
3.5 2.5
-
5.0 4.5
-
5.5 4.5
-
7.5 active compound Disodium EDTA 0.1 - - - 0.003 0.003 triethanolamine 2.5 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 zinc PCA - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Vitreoscilla ferment - - 0.25 0.25 - - trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate - 0.3 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 mannose - - - 0.5 0.5 0.5 hydroxyacetophenone - 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 fatty compound stearyl alcohol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 charge silica 5.0 4.0
-
5.0 4.25
-
5.25 4.0
-
5.0 4.5
-
5.0 5.0
-
5.5 charge silica (and) titanium dioxide 5.0 - - - - - silica silylate 0.4 0.4
-
4.0 0.1
-
1.0 0.5
-
1.25 0.5
-
1.5 0.75
-
2.5 cellulose - 0.15 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 scent scent 0.5 - - 0.65 - - polymer aluminum starch octenyl succinate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 cross-linked polymer lauryl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate 0.2 - - - - - crosslinked polymer acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 conservative phenoxyethanol 0.7 - - - - - silicon caprylyl methicone 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 solvent water QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP glycerin 2.0 1.0
-
2.0 1.5
-
3.0 1.5
-
2.5 1.75
-
2.25 2.0
-
2.5 propylene glycol - - - - 1.0 1.0 pentylene glycol 2.0 2.0
-
3.0 1.0
-
2.0 2.0
-
3.0 1.75
-
2.25 1.5
-
2.0 caprylyl glycol 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 surfactant stearic acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 potassium cetyl phosphate 1.0 1.0 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 poloxamer 338 0.3 - - - - - sodium methyl stearoyl taurate 0.5 0.5 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 poloxamer 338 - 0.3 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 plant extract maltodextrin (and) Bixa orellana seed extract - - 0.25 0.25 - - vitamin niacinamide - - 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 tocopherol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

TESTS

Trial 1 – Protection Index (IP)

The inventive cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 5 and Ex. 6 were tested to measure their IP according to the ISO 24444-2019 (IP) method, in two phases.

In the first phase (screen phase), the cosmetic compositions were applied to 5 subjects in order to access the approximate IP factor. The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 5 obtained an average static IP of 88.2 (10.8) and an adjusted final IP of 77.4, and the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 6 obtained an average static IP of 85.9 (12.7) and a final adjusted PI of 73.2.

In phase two, only the composition of Ex. 5 was tested, on 10 subjects. The composition according to Ex. 5 obtained an average static IP of 92.0 (6.2) and a final adjusted IP of 85.8.

The results of the reference formula, tested in parallel, were integrated into the international database and presented statistical results (Z value) <1.6, showing that the results of the formulas under test are validated.

TEST 2 – UVA Protection Index (UVA-IP) in vivo

An evaluation of the screening effect of the UVA protection index was carried out with the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 5 and Ex. 6, in a study carried out according to the ISO 24442-2011 method (UVA in vivo ), with two phases – phase 1 (screen) and phase 2 (complement).

During phase 1, the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 5 demonstrated an average in vivo IP-UVA of 29.0 (± 0.0), and the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 6 had an in vivo IP-UVA of 29.0 (± 0.0), and the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. mean vivo of 26.7 (± 4.0).

For phase 2, only the composition according to Ex. 5 was tested with a larger group of subjects, and demonstrated an in vivo IP-UVA of 27.8 (± 1.8).

Trial 3 – Comparative Test

The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention according to Ex. 4 was compared to a cosmetic sunscreen composition of the state of the art according to Ex. 1, which comprises octrocrylene and homosalate, as well as titanium dioxide.

The two compositions were tested on a group of women, aged 18 to 55, who used cosmetic sunscreen compositions daily for at least 1 year and 6 months, with oily or combination skin.

According to the women tested, the textures of the compositions according to Ex. 4 (inventive) and Ex. 1 (state of the art) were very similar. However, the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 4 (inventive) demonstrated better resistance to water and sweat, without ash effect, while maintaining a similar IP profile.

Claims (7)

Cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising:
(a) a UV filter system comprising phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, benzoate hydroxybenzoyl hexyl, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate; And
(b) an emollient system comprising isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate and diisopropyl sebacate. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the UV filter system ranges from 15.0 to 31.0 weight percent, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, in which the UV filter system comprises:
- from 1.0 to 3.0% by weight of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid;
- from 3.0 to 5.5% by weight of ethylhexyl salicylate;
- from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid;
- from 3.0 to 5.0% by weight of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane;
- from 3.0 to 4.5% by weight of ethylhexyl triazone;
- from 3.0 to 6.0% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine;
- from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate;
- from 1.0 to 3.0% by weight of methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol laurate (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate;
including all intermediate ranges and subranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the emollient system is from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, in which the emollient system comprises:
- from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight of isopropyl myristate;
- from 2.0 to 5.5% by weight of isononyl isononanoate;
- from 2.5 to 7.5% by weight of diisopropyl sebacate;
including all intermediate ranges and subranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to claim 1, wherein it further comprises silica silylate, in the range of 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, in which it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients chosen from active compounds, fatty compounds, fillers, perfumes, polymers, solvents, vitamins, additional UV filters, preservatives, surfactants and their mixtures.