FR3135729A1 - Shea butter EXTRACT enriched with detriterpenated unsaponifiables - Google Patents

Abstract

SHEA BUTTER EXTRACT ENRICHED WITH UNSAPONIFIABLE DETRITERPENE The invention relates to a shea butter extract characterized in that it has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 85% (w/w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the weight total extract and a relative content of triterpene alcohols less than or equal to 20% (w/w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and its process for obtaining it. It also relates to a composition comprising a shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims. Said composition being a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological, characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable support a shea butter extract according to the invention. Finally, it concerns the use of said shea butter extract as substitutes and/or equivalents for paraffins of fossil origin and/or natural waxes, in particular beeswax, carnauba wax and/or candelilla wax. , particularly in the field of coatings, inks, varnishes, papers, cardboard, adhesives, candles, plastics, rubbers, food products, cosmetics and pharmaceutical products

Description

Shea butter EXTRACT enriched with detriterpenated unsaponifiables

The present invention relates to a shea butter extract characterized in that it has an unsaponifiable content significantly higher than conventional shea butter as well as a relative content of triterpene alcohols significantly lower than conventional shea butter. The invention also relates to the use of said extract in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, coatings, inks, varnishes, paper, adhesives, candles, plastics, rubbers and/or food products fields.

Paraffins, also called mineral waxes, are hydrocarbon compounds resulting from petroleum refining. Made up of alkanes of 18 to 60 carbon atoms, linear and branched cyclic, respectively iso and cycloalkanes, paraffins are substances with a solid to semi-solid consistency at room temperature ( Bio- para ffi n from Soybean Oil as Eco -friendly Alternative to Mineral Waxes . Sandra Romero et al . Eng . Res . Their main properties are their variable melting point between 35 and 90°C, their excellent stability to oxidation and temperature, their olfactory neutrality and their clarity.

There are different types of mineral paraffins depending on their consistency and melting point: soft waxes, microcrystalline waxes and paraffin waxes respectively better known by their English names slack wax, petrolatum , microcrytalline wax , paraffin wax , ozokerites , Fisher Tropsch wax . The applications of mineral paraffins are extremely extensive since they are widely used in the fields of packaging and cardboard in particular (more than 30% of volumes produced), candles (25% of volumes), inks and coatings (more than 10% of volumes), plastics and rubbers (8%), adhesives (8%), cosmetics ( An Example of Commercializing Bio based Coatings and B inders. D. Jarboe . Written for presentation at the 2017 ASABE Annual International Meeting Sponsored by ASABE Spokane, Washington July 16-19, 2017 ).

Many of these markets are also served by certain so-called natural waxes, of plant or animal origin, such as beeswax, candelilla and carnauba wax. Although more expensive in price, these waxes offer a renewable alternative to mineral paraffins. Their common point lies mainly in their melting point or their dropping point of between 40 and 90°C ( The World of Wax. M. Becker. Oils & Fats International (OFI), January 2010, pp 38-40 ). But their global produced volume of 400,000 tonnes remains much lower than that of mineral paraffins estimated at more than 3 million tonnes.

However, mineral paraffins and natural waxes do not meet certain recent developments in market expectations, particularly in terms of respect for the environment and safety. These waxes and paraffins are also increasingly challenged at the regulatory level.

Thus, a large group of mineral paraffins is suspected of toxicity, in particular of carcinogenic effect. This is why in 2013, the EFSA (European Food Safety Authority) set for microcrystalline waxes (food additive E 905) and white paraffins of medium viscosity, admissible daily doses applicable to a large number of food products ( Scientific Opinion on Mineral Oil Hydrocarbons in Food , EFSA Panel on Contaminants in the Food Chain (CONTAM), published on 28 August 2013 ). This has resulted in limit concentrations to be respected in particular in dairy products, vegetable oils, cereals, spices, fish, eggs, etc.

Furthermore, due to their origin, mineral paraffins contribute negatively to the increase in carbon dioxide of an anthropogenic nature. In addition, they are not biodegradable and induce bioaccumulation in the environment ( Waxes and Related Materials. American Petroleum Institute. January 21, 2011 ). This is why many sectors are looking for substitutes of natural and renewable origin.

Finally, recent developments in petrochemical processes and in the type of fossil fuel resource have gradually led to a reduction in the volumes of mineral paraffins produced. In 2013, in the USA, the National Petrochemical & Refiners Association estimated 25% of global volumes at risk for 3 major reasons: 1) greater efficiency of paraffin catalytic cracking processes, 2) a constantly decreasing demand for oil , 3) the recent development of shale gas, which produces significantly fewer paraffinic co-products than oil cracking. Consequently, the need to develop renewable alternatives is essential for sectors that use mineral paraffins extensively.

With regard to natural waxes of plant and animal origin such as carnauba, candelilla and bee waxes, other problems have emerged. First of all, candelilla and carnauba waxes are obtained using processes and sectors that are not very respectful of people and the environment. A very poorly paid workforce and exposure to toxic substances such as sulfuric acid brought the resulting waxes into serious disrepute. To the point that these waxes do not meet the CSR (Social and Environmental Responsibility) criteria now required by many industrial sectors. In addition, these waxes are extracted from plants collected from the environment in a wild and uncontrolled manner, inducing a negative impact on biodiversity. Thus, the candelilla plant Euphorbia Antisiphilityca is now included in the CITES list of endangered plants. Finally, the production of carnauba and candelilla waxes is often affected by climatic conditions and not always easy access to the resource, leading to frequent supply disruptions.

Concerning beeswax, its animal origin limits its use in certain sectors such as natural cosmetics and certified “vegan” products. In addition, it is a by-product of the production of field honey and is in fact contaminated by pesticides which must be eliminated through expensive purification processes.

Finally, in many applications, natural waxes cannot completely replace microcrystalline waxes because they have lower melting points and do not have the same hardness.

Vaseline or also called petrolatum is a raw material in the class of mineral oils whose texture is creamy to slightly pasty. It is an ingredient widely used in food (additive) and cosmetics, particularly in balms and lipsticks, moisturizing creams and even in hair care. But the use of petroleum jelly is increasingly controversial and subject to severe regulation ( Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Petroleum Distillate Journal of the American College of Toxicology , Volume 5, Number 3, 1986, Statutory Instruments – Consumer Protection , The Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations 2008, No. 1284, pp 1-144).

This is why, in cosmetics, numerous substitutes of plant origin have been proposed for example in US3764537, US4659573, US5976560 or WO 2007/107966, which consist of mixtures mainly consisting of fatty esters of vegetable oils, vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. The semi-synthetic nature of these substitutes as well as their multi-component composition make their incorporation into different types of topical formulations, makeup and hair products difficult. Therefore, it is necessary to develop substitutes that are easier to use and consist of a minimum number of ingredients, ideally no more than two.

Lanolin and its derivatives have been used in cosmetics for a long time. They are used for their moisturizing properties of the skin and appendages ( Final Report for the Safety Assessment of Acetylated Lanolin Alcohols and Related Compounds, Cosmetic Ingredient Review , https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ 115_buff3g_suppl.pdf ). They are also lubricants giving formulations a soft and smooth feel, and in certain applications even an adhesive effect. Produced from sheep's wool, their animal origin significantly slows down their use in cosmetics, particularly since the mad cow crisis and the consumer's tendency to consume vegan products that respect animal welfare. This is why many lanolin substitutes have been proposed, for example in WO 2005/044203, JP 2019047841 and/or US 5,436,006. Here again, these are complex mixtures of natural and semi-synthetic ingredients which make it difficult to incorporate them into different types of cosmetic formulations (make-up, skincare, hair care, etc.).

Silicones and in particular dimethicones and their derivatives are ingredients widely used in cosmetics (Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol., Journal of the American College of Toxicology, Volume 1, Number 4, 1982, Silicone Polymers in Skin Care . Anthony J. O'Lenick and Kevin A. O'Lenick, MRS Bulletin, Vol. 32, October 2007, www/mrs.org/bulletin). Among silicones, dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes, PDMS) are the most used in cosmetics, particularly for their film-forming property. The role of dimethicones and their derivatives is to form a surface film on the surface of the skin and to coat the hair. On a sensory level, they bring shine, a silky and soft touch. Despite their remarkable properties, they are increasingly rejected by consumers because they are suspected of not being devoid of toxicity. As a result, the cosmetics industry is developing products labeled “silicone-free”. Also, many substitutes of different types are offered. The company SEPPIC offers, for example, cuts of linear and branched alkanes obtained by hydrocracking of vegetable oils (S. Duprat-de-Paule. Augmented Bio-based Lipids for Cosmetics. OCL 2018, 25(5), 2018 pp 2-12 ). Although partly reproducing certain sensory properties of silicones, these alkanes do not have the hair-coating power of dimethicones. Likewise, the company INOLEX offers plant-based alternatives to silicones under the LexFeel™ brand, which are biosourced synthetic esters (glycerol triheptanoate, heptyl undecylenate, diheptyl succinate). These esters have the disadvantage of being easily hydrolyzable and releasing strongly odorous alcohols and fatty acids unlike silicones which have excellent hydrolysis stability. It is therefore necessary to develop substitutes for silicones and in particular dimethicones, having excellent hydrolysis stability and strong hair coating power.

In order to respond to the various problems linked to the use of mineral paraffins and natural waxes, substitutes have been proposed. For example, application WO 03/093404 claims compositions comprising hydrogenated polymerized oils. However, the production process involves chemical synthesis steps, in this case a polymerization of drying oils (soy, linseed, safflower) as well as their hydrogenation at high temperature, which correspond to energy-intensive and dangerous process steps. In addition, these polymerized and hydrogenated oils do not make it possible to obtain waxy compositions with a very high melting point, that is to say greater than 90°C.

US application 8,529,924 discloses paraffin wax substitutes for candle making, consisting of hydrogenated vegetable oils. Here again, the production process involves a relatively dangerous process, in this case catalytic hydrogenation, and leads to compositions that are limited in terms of melting point.

US application 4,842,648 claims a paraffin wax substitute consisting of glycerol monostearate and refined palm stearin. However, the maximum melting point of the composition is significantly lower than that of paraffin waxes.

Application US 8,685,118 discloses paraffin substitutes obtained by intermolecular metathesis of unsaturated vegetable oils. The metathesis reaction involves the use of homogeneous, specific and expensive catalysts making the process economically unprofitable. Furthermore, it is known to those skilled in the art that the selectivity of metathesis reactions is difficult to control and leads to the production of complex mixtures of coupling products whose final rheological properties are difficult to determine.

Patent FR 2702773 discloses a process for preparing a fat fraction enriched with unsaponifiable materials, in particular shea. The extracts according to this request have an unsaponifiable content significantly lower than 85%.

Patent JP 2011132207 discloses a shea butter gum derivative for these cosmetic applications. However, this derivative has an unsaponifiable content significantly lower than 85% because its process is not carried out hot and includes saponification with ethanol as solvent.

The applicant has succeeded in a completely surprising and unexpected manner in developing an extract of shea butter ( Vitellaria paradoxa ) with a very high unsaponifiable content which has the advantage of guaranteeing the stability over time of the rheological, functional, safety, softening temperature, viscosity, resistance to hydrolysis and oxidation.

In fact, in formulation the shea butter extract according to the invention has in particular an emulsifiable character, spreading properties, a film-forming character, a gelling power, a coating effect on the hair significantly superior to any fraction or extract of butter. of shea having a lower level of unsaponifiable matter. As a result, the sensory properties of the formulations, a very important criterion in cosmetics, are significantly better with the shea butter extract according to the invention.

Triterpene alcohols and sterols/methylsterols tend to precipitate when cold which can destabilize emulsions, cloud liquid formulations, particularly cosmetics, in particular serums, shampoos, styling products, but also make emulsions grainy and therefore negatively affect the sensory properties of formulations. Likewise, these compounds can modify the rheological and stability properties via the formation of oxidized products (oxysterols and peroxides), which over time can also lead to coloring of the formulations (browning) and/or problems of coloring. skin intolerance.

The applicant has also succeeded in a completely surprising and unexpected manner in developing a shea butter extract whose low content of triterpene alcohols and sterols and methyl sterols makes it possible to resolve all of the problems cited above.

The shea butter extract according to the invention also has the advantage of being an alternative to paraffins, respectful of humans and the environment, non-ecotoxic and bioaccumulative, natural, renewable, vegan, low toxic and presenting an excellent naturalness index.

Also, the extract according to the invention combined with one or more ingredients is an alternative to petroleum jelly, lanolin and dimethicones, the disadvantages of which have been stated above.

A first object of the invention relates to a shea butter extract characterized in that it has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 85% (w/w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract. and a relative content of triterpene alcohols less than or equal to 20% (w/w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “shea butter extract” means any compound derived from a fraction of shea butter having undergone a treatment enabling it to be enriched with certain constituents.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “shea butter fraction” means any compound resulting from the fractionation of shea butter.

For the purposes of the present invention, “shea butter” means raw, semi-refined or refined shea butter.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fractionation of shea butter” means at least one step of treating raw, semi-refined or refined shea butter with an organic solvent.

The fractionation of shea butter is carried out with at least one solvent chosen from the list including acetone, methyl-THF, ethyl ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, dodecane, alpha and beta pinene , limonene, pinane, adamanthane, dichloromethane, dichloroethane, methyl isobutyl ketone and/or isopropanol and leads to the olein and stearin fractions and a precipitate.

This usually non-recycled precipitate is the raw material which will make it possible to prepare the fraction according to the invention; in the remainder of this application it will be designated by “precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process”.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention is the co-product of the saponification of the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention is obtained by a process not comprising a treatment step with ethanol, nor by a solvent from the family of linear, branched and/or alkanes. cyclic, and/or from the family of aromatic compounds in the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “unsaponifiable” means compounds insoluble in water but soluble in organic solvents obtained after saponification of the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process. Generally speaking, unsaponifiables include sterols, methyl sterols, triterpene alcohols, tocopherols and/or hydrocarbons.

The determination of the unsaponifiable content can be carried out by any method conventionally known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, it can be carried out using the standardized method NF EN ISO 18609.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 90% (w/w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content at least 5 times higher than the unsaponifiable content of shea butter.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content at least 9 times higher than the unsaponifiable content of shea butter.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content at least 3 times greater than the unsaponifiable content of the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “raw shea butter” means unrefined butter, obtained by simple mechanical pressure of the almonds or by extraction with a solvent, for example hexane.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "semi-refined shea butter" means butter having undergone at least one step of neutralization, degumming, discoloration on bleaching earth in the presence or absence of activated carbon and/or neutralizing deodorization or non-neutralizing.

For the purposes of the present invention, “refined shea butter” means butter that has undergone physical or chemical refining. By chemical refining we mean butter that has undergone the stages of neutralization in the presence of a base, degumming, discoloration on bleaching earth in the presence or absence of activated carbon and deodorization. By physical refining we mean a butter which has undergone the stages of degumming, discoloration on bleaching earth in the presence or absence of activated carbon and neutralizing deodorization.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a saponification index less than or equal to 30 mg KOH/g.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a saponification index less than or equal to 20 mg KOH/g.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a saponification index less than or equal to 10 mg KOH/g.

The determination of the saponification index can be carried out by any method conventionally known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, it can be carried out according to the standardized method NF ISO 3657.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of triterpene alcohols less than or equal to 10% (w/w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of triterpene alcohols less than or equal to 5% (w/w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of triterpene alcohols less than or equal to 1% (w/w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

The measurement of the triterpene alcohol content can be carried out by all the methods conventionally used by those skilled in the art.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the measurement of the triterpene alcohol content is carried out by GC-FID gas chromatography.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative triterpene alcohol content at least 15 times lower than the relative triterpene alcohol content of shea butter.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of triterpene alcohols at least 30 times lower than the relative content of triterpene alcohols of shea butter.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of triterpene alcohols at least 5 times lower than the relative content of triterpene alcohols of the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of triterpene alcohols at least 8 times lower than the relative content of triterpene alcohols of the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols less than or equal to 20% (w/w) by weight of sterols and/or methyl sterols. relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols less than or equal to 10% (w/w) by weight of sterols and/or methyl sterols. relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols less than or equal to 5% (w/w) by weight of sterols and/or methyl sterols. relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols less than or equal to 3% (w/w) by weight of sterols and/or methyl sterols. relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols less than or equal to 2% (w/w) by weight of sterols and/or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols at least 10 times lower than the relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols of shea butter. .

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols at least 15 times lower than the relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols of shea butter. .

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols at least 3 times lower than the relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols of the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols at least 5 times lower than the relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols of the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process.

The determination of the sterol and/or methyl sterol content can be carried out by all the methods conventionally used by those skilled in the art.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the measurement of the sterol and/or methyl sterol content is carried out by GC-FID gas chromatography.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature measured by ATD-ATG (Thermo Differential Analysis – Thermo Gravimetric Analysis) greater than or equal to 160°C.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 180°C.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a decomposition temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 450°C.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a decomposition temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 480°C.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 160°C and a decomposition temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 450° vs.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 180°C and a decomposition temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 480° vs.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature in a range of 100 to 250°C.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature in a range of 120 to 200°C.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature in a range of 140 to 170°C.

The softening temperature can be determined by any method conventionally known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, the total melting temperature determined by ATD-ATG or by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry).

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a decomposition temperature in a range of 400 to 600°C.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a decomposition temperature in a range of 420 to 500°C.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a decomposition temperature in a range of 440 to 480°C.

The decomposition temperature can be determined by any method conventionally known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, the total melting temperature determined by ATD-ATG or by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry).

For the purposes of the present invention, “softening” temperature means the temperature from which the material begins to liquefy and loses hardness.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “decomposition” temperature is understood to mean the temperature from which the decomposing material begins to lose mass as observed by ATD-ATG analysis.

For the purposes of the present invention, “ATD-ATG” means thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and differential thermal analysis (ATD). These are two complementary thermal analysis techniques. Used simultaneously, they make it possible to study the thermodynamic behavior of materials. Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) makes it possible to measure the variation in mass of a sample for a given temperature as a function of time. This analysis therefore implies knowledge of the data which are mass, time and very precise temperature. The curves obtained from the analysis are subsequently processed and interpreted.

These softening and decomposition temperature characteristics have the advantage of having a substitute or equivalent product for paraffins. They also make it possible to develop waxy compositions with a very high melting point by adding shea butter extract according to the invention.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an iodine index greater than or equal to 50 g I ₂ /100g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter fraction according to invention.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an iodine index greater than or equal to 80 g I ₂ /100g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter fraction according to invention.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an iodine index greater than or equal to 100 g I₂/100g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter extract according to the invention.

The measurement of the iodine index can be determined by any conventional method known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, it is determined according to the NF ISO 3961 standard.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an acid number less than or equal to 10 mg KOH/g in milligram of potassium hydroxide per gram of shea butter extract according to the 'invention.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an acid number less than or equal to 5 mg KOH/g in milligram of potassium hydroxide per gram of shea butter extract according to the 'invention.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an acid number less than or equal to 1 mg KOH/g in milligram of potassium hydroxide per gram of shea butter extract according to the 'invention.

The determination of the acid number can be carried out by any method conventionally known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, it can be carried out according to the standardized method NF EN ISO 660.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention is hydrogenated.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrogenated” means an extract having undergone at least one hydrogenation reaction.

In one embodiment, the hydrogenation of the shea butter extract according to the invention is carried out in an organic solvent in the presence of at least one homogeneous or heterogeneous metal catalyst, comprising at least one hydrogenating metal included in the group nickel, copper, cobalt, platinum, ruthenium, rhenium and/or palladium.

In one embodiment, the hydrogenation reaction is carried out under a hydrogen pressure greater than 1 bar.

In one embodiment, the hydrogenation reaction is carried out at a temperature above 60°C.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention is hydrogenated and has an iodine index less than or equal to 60 g I ₂ /100g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter extract. shea according to the invention.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention is treated with an alcohol.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “treated with an alcohol” means an extract having undergone at least one washing step in the presence of an alcohol comprising 1 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the extract treated with an alcohol is treated with ethanol in an extract/alcohol mass ratio of 0.01 to 100. The washing with alcohol may comprise one or more washes, at a temperature of 20 at 250°C. Washing is carried out in batch mode or continuously against the current.

Thus, in one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 85% (w/w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract and a relative content of triterpene alcohols less than or equal to 20% (w/w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and a saponification index less than or equal to 30 mg KOH/g and a relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols less than or equal to 10% (w/w) by weight of sterols and/or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and a softening temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 160°C and a decomposition temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 450°C and an iodine number greater than or equal to 50 g I ₂ /100g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of butter extract shea butter according to the invention and an acid number less than or equal to 10 mg KOH/g in milligrams of potassium hydroxide per grams of shea butter extract according to the invention.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 90% (w/w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract and a content relative in triterpene alcohols less than or equal to 5% (w/w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and a saponification index less than or equal to 20 mg KOH/g and a relative content of sterols and /or in methyl sterols less than or equal to 10% (w/w) by weight of sterols and/or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and a softening temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 160° C and a decomposition temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 450°C and an iodine index greater than or equal to 90 g I ₂ /100g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter extract according to the invention and an acid number less than or equal to 5 mg KOH/g in milligrams of potassium hydroxide per grams of shea butter extract according to the invention.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 90% (w/w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract and a content relative in triterpene alcohols less than or equal to 1% (w/w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and a saponification index less than or equal to 10 mg KOH/g and a relative content of sterols and/or or in methyl sterols less than or equal to 2% (w/w) by weight of sterols and/or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and a softening temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 180°C and a decomposition temperature temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 480°C and an iodine number greater than or equal to 1 g I ₂ /100g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter extract according to the invention and an acid number less than or equal to 1 mg KOH/g in milligrams of potassium hydroxide per grams of shea butter extract according to the invention, the shea butter extract being hydrogenated.

In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 90% (w/w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract and a content relative in triterpene alcohols less than or equal to 1% (w/w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and saponification index less than or equal to 10 mg KOH/g and a relative content of sterols and/ or in methyl sterols less than or equal to 2% (w/w) by weight of sterols and/or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and a softening temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 100°C and a decomposition temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 350°C and an iodine number greater than or equal to 100 g I2/100g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter extract according to the invention and an acid number less than or equal to 1 mg KOH/g in milligrams of potassium hydroxide per grams of shea butter extract according to the invention, the shea butter extract being treated with 'alcohol.

Another object according to the present invention relates to a composition comprising a shea butter extract according to the invention.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological, is characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable support a shea butter extract according to the invention.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is characterized in a content of shea butter extract according to the invention of 1.10 ^-3 to 99% (w/w) by weight of the shea butter extract per relative to the total weight of said composition.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is characterized in a content of shea butter extract according to the invention of 5 to 80% (w/w) by weight of the shea butter extract relative to the total weight of said composition.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is characterized in a content of shea butter extract according to the invention of 10 to 70% (w/w) by weight of the shea butter extract relative to the total weight of said composition.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is characterized in a content of shea butter extract according to the invention of 15 to 60% (w/w) by weight of the shea butter extract relative to the total weight of said composition.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is characterized in a content of shea butter extract according to the invention of 30 to 50% (w/w) by weight of the shea butter extract relative to the total weight of said composition.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one biosourced ingredient included in the group consisting of alkanes, natural or synthetic waxes, fatty esters of vegetable oils, blown vegetable oils and/or polymerized and/or hydrogenated and/or polyhydroxylated, fatty acid esters, monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides, fatty acid soaps, natural polymers, synthetic polymers, fatty alcohols, free phytosterols/stanols , esterified phytosterols/stanols, free triterpene alcohols, esterified free triterpene alcohols, and/or glycol fatty esters.

The composition thus obtained is a biosourced composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “biosourced ingredient” or “a biosourced composition” means a compound or a composition comprising at least 95% biosourced carbon, as determined by standard ASTM D6866 – 12 (Standard Test Methods for Determining the Biobased Content of Solid, Liquid, and Gaseous Samples Using Radiocarbon Analysis).

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a homogeneous mixture.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has the characteristics of a eutectic mixture.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one ingredient having a refractive index at 20°C of 1.5000 to 1.5200.

Mixing the extract according to the invention with an ingredient having a substantially identical refractive index, in this case from 1.5000 to 1.5200 at 20°C, has the advantage of making the mixture translucent. The mixture thus formed is therefore more easily formulated in cosmetics in particular.

The ingredients having a refractive index of 1.5000 to 1.5200 at 20°C may in particular be chosen from poly (2-chloroethyl methacrylate), poly (cyclohexyl methacrylate), polyisobutene, poly (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate), poly(tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate), poly(acrylic acid), poly(acrylonitrile), poly(methyl isopropenyl ketone) and/or poly isoprene.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises polyisoprene.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one ingredient included in the group consisting of antioxidants, surfactants, sunscreens and/or preservatives.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one ingredient of fossil origin included in the group consisting of alkanes, mineral oils, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, paraffin waxes, paraffins liquids and/or oily paraffins, petrolatum, petroleum jelly, soft waxes, ozokerites, Fisher Tropsch waxes, synthetic waxes, synthetic fatty alcohols, synthetic fatty acids and/or polymers.

According to the invention, the term “paraffin” means an alkane or a mixture of alkanes, in particular linear alkanes, iso-alkanes (or branched alkanes), cycloalkanes and naphthenes, MOSH (Mineral Oil Saturated Hydrocarbons) of which the carbon number is greater than 18, mono or polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons known under the name MOAH (Mineral Oil Aromatic Hydrocarbons) whose carbon number is greater than 10.

Another object according to the present invention relates to a composition comprising a shea butter extract according to the invention and one or more oils.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition comprising a shea butter extract according to the invention and one or more oils, in which the shea butter extract is present in a content of 0.1 to 30% (w/w) by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition comprising a shea butter extract according to the invention and one or more oils, in which the shea butter extract is present in a content of 5 to 15% ( w/p) by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to one embodiment, the oil(s) are chosen from the list comprising vegetable oils and/or their ester-type derivatives, mineral oils, esterified oils and/or linear and/or branched alkanes from C10 to C44.

Another object according to the present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological, characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable support a shea butter extract according to the invention.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable support a shea butter extract according to the invention.

In one embodiment, said cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition further comprises an active ingredient.

According to the present invention, the term "cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable support" means a cosmetic or pharmaceutical excipient that is non-irritating to the skin, non-toxic, does not induce an allergic response, and is chemically stable.

According to the present invention, the term “cosmetic composition” means a non-therapeutic composition, that is to say a composition intended for the prevention and/or care of healthy skin, including healthy scalp, and/or healthy skin appendages and/or healthy mucous membranes.

According to the present invention, the term “healthy skin” means “healthy skin appendages” or “healthy mucous membranes” any area of skin and/or skin appendages and/or mucous membrane qualified as non-pathological by a dermatologist, that is to say who does not present infection, inflammation, scar, disease or skin condition such as folliculitis, candidiasis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, pathologies linked to melanogenesis such as vitiligo, eczema, acne, actinic keratosis, carcinoma , melanoma, boil or dermatitis including seborrheic, alopecia or sores or injuries.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “integumentary appendages” means integumentary productions originating from the ectoderm which are characterized by a high rate of keratinization. The appendages do not include the skin or mucous membranes. In humans, the main appendages are hair and nails.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition further comprising at least one compound chosen from non-volatile oils, shiny oils, pasty fatty substances, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, waxes, anti-oxidants , pigments, dyes, surfactants, an aqueous phase, or mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-volatile oil” means an oil having a flash point greater than 110°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.

These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

These non-volatile oils can be hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or fluorosilicone oils.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term hydrocarbon oil means an oil essentially consisting of carbon atoms, hydrogen and possibly oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms.

Among these hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of linear or branched alkanes of mineral or synthetic origin such as linear or branched alkanes of 17 to 40 carbon atoms, (poly) esters and (poly) ethers, and in particular (poly) ethers. )esters of C ₂ -C ₂₄ acids (preferably C ₆ -C ₂₀ ), triglycerides of C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty acids, vegetable oils, di-alkyl carbonates, branched fatty acids and /or unsaturated, branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohols.

Concerning the non-volatile silicone oils, they are in particular chosen from the group comprising phenyl silicone oils, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, or derivatives of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from the group consisting of non-volatile linear or branched alkanes.

In one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from the group consisting of linear or branched alkanes of 17 to 40 carbon atoms.

In one embodiment, the non-volatile oils are of plant origin.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the non-volatile oil is a vegetable hydrocarbon oil.

Vegetable hydrocarbon oils are chosen in particular from the group comprising wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, coconut, apricot, castor, corn, avocado, soy, shea, olive, sweet almond oil, cotton, palm, macadamia, rapeseed, jojoba, hazelnut, poppy, alfalfa, pumpkin, blackcurrant, squash, evening primrose , barley, and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the non-volatile oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is at least 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is between 5% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is between 10% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one glossy oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “shiny oil” means an oil having intrinsic shine properties. “Shiny oils” are frequently used in cosmetics to guarantee a “shiny effect” when applying cosmetic compositions to keratin materials, for example.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized, the shiny oil is a non-volatile oil.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the glossy oil is chosen from the group comprising:
– polymers such as: polybutylenes, in particular POLYBUTENE ^® marketed or manufactured by the company ATAMAN, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, polyfarnesenes, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers in particular the vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer, ANTARON V 220 ^® marketed or manufactured by the company ISP.
– esters such as esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number greater than 30, aromatic esters, esters of fatty alcohol or branched fatty acids having 20 to 30 carbon atoms.
– ester copolymers such as: dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (LUSPLAN DD—DA5 ^® and LUSPLAN DD-DA7 ^® ), dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer (VISCOPLAST 14436H ^® ), dilinoleic acid/propanediol copolymer and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the shiny oil is at least 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the shiny oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the glossy oil is between 2% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the glossy oil is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the glossy oil is between 10% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 2% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one pasty fatty substance.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty fatty substance” means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change, presenting at room temperature (25°C) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the melting temperature of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 25°C.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is chosen from the group comprising synthetic pasty fatty substances, animal pasty fatty substances, vegetable pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is a synthetic pasty fatty substance chosen from the group comprising: polyol ethers, petroleum jelly, vinyl polymers, pentaerythritol esters , polyesters and their blends.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty animal fatty substance is lanolin.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the vegetable pasty fatty substance is chosen from the group comprising: vegetable butters, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one gelling agent.

Furthermore, certain glossy oils such as VISCOPLAST 14436H ^® , and compounds marketed under the name LUSPLAN DD-DA5 ^® and LUSPLAN DD-DA7 ^® can also be used as gelling agents.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is chosen from the group comprising: organic gelling agents, mineral gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is an organic gelling agent chosen from the group comprising: ethylcellulose and its derivatives, resins derived from rosin, dextrin esters, fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a mineral gelling agent chosen from the group comprising: hectorite and its derivatives, fumed silica and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a polymeric gelling agent chosen from the group comprising: organopolysiloxanes and their derivatives, dimethicone copolymers and their derivatives, polystyrene/polyisoprene copolymers, polystyrene/polybutadiene copolymers, polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) copolymers, polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) copolymers, mixtures of copolymers in isododecane such as ethylene/propylene copolymer or butylene/copolymer ethylene/styrene, polyesters and their derivatives, polyamide resins, and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is dextrin palmitate or one of its derivatives.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a modified hectorite of the BENTONE GEL ISD V ^® type or one of its equivalents.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a modified hectorite of the VEGELIGHT BENTONE SILK SB ^® type or one of its equivalents.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a modified hectorite of the disteardimonium hectorite type associated with triethyl citrate.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a mixture of copolymer in isododecane such as the ethylene/propylene copolymer.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is the combination of a dimethicone polymer and a mixture of alkanes marketed under the name VEGELIGHT SILK SI 118 ^® by BIOSYNTHIS, or one of its equivalents.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is at least 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 15% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 15% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 20% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one film-forming polymer.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term film-forming polymer means a polymer capable of forming a macroscopically continuous film, particularly on the lips in the context of our invention.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the film-forming polymer is chosen from the group comprising: acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, silicone polymers.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the film-forming polymer is trimethylsilloxysillicate marketed under the name TMS 803.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is at least 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is at least 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 1% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 10% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 1% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 10% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it also comprises at least one wax.

Waxes play an important role in the design of cosmetic products, lipsticks in particular, because they influence certain essential criteria such as the texture, appearance and/or solidity of the product.

In the context of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound having a reversible solid/liquid state change. In other words, the compound is solid at room temperature (at 25°C) and has a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C.

In one embodiment, the waxes used have a melting point greater than or equal to 50°C.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one wax is chosen from the group consisting of synthetic waxes, mineral waxes, vegetable waxes and animal waxes.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the wax is a mineral wax or a synthetic wax chosen from the group comprising: microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes , silicone waxes, fluorinated waxes.

By “vegetable wax” is meant a composition comprising at least one partially or completely hydrogenated oil. These vegetable waxes may include esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, and may additionally include fatty acids, free fatty alcohols, long chain linear alkanes and/or unsaponifiables.

In one embodiment, the waxes used are vegetable waxes.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the wax is a vegetable or animal wax chosen from the group comprising: lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Berry wax, beeswax, sunflower wax, mimosa wax, jojoba wax, castor wax, olive wax.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is at least 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 2% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 2% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one antioxidant.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the antioxidant is chosen from the group comprising: phenolic antioxidants of the BHA, BHT, DBPC, gallate type, so-called natural antioxidants such as dl-alpha-tocopherol or its derivatives, tocotrienols, plant extracts, dibasic lipopeptides such as lysine or arginine, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is at least 0.01% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is at least 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.01% and 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.01% and 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.1% and 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.01% and 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one pigmentary part.

This pigment part makes it possible to obtain coloring of the cosmetic composition. The pigments used are of synthetic, mineral or vegetable origin. Their dosage is also subtle.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part is chosen from the group comprising: water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearls, flakes and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part is chosen from the group comprising: organic pigments such as fixed pigments or precipitated pigments, mineral pigments such as titanium dioxide or iron oxides, sodium aluminosilicate thiosulfates, chromium oxides, bismuth oxychloride, copper phthalocyanine, metal-free phthalocyanine, chlorinated copper phthalocyanine.

Thus, the level of titanium oxide determines the coverage and opacity of the film.

The use of lacquers or precipitated pigments determines the color and chroma.

For illustration purposes, other types of pigments can be used such as titanium mica, borosilicates and their derivatives, mica, silica.

Mineral pigments are used to nuance the shades while compounds such as bismuth oxychloride can be used to impart particular effects (metallic, shimmering effects, etc.).

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a synthetic dye chosen from the group comprising: CI100006, CI12010, CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI12490, CI14270, CI14700, CI14720 , CI14815, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15850, CI15865, CI15880, CI15980, CI15985, CI1035, CI16255, CI16290, CI17200, CI18050, CI45100, CI45220, 380, CI45430.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a synthetic dye chosen from the group comprising: CI77499, CI77267, CI77268, CI77499 CI77266, CI50420, CI27755, CI28440, CI20470 and their mixtures .

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a dye of plant origin chosen from fruit and/or plant extracts containing dyes.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is at least 0.01% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is at least 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is between 0.01% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is between 1% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is between 5% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is between 1% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is between 0.01% and 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is between 10% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one surfactant.

For the purposes of the present invention, surfactant means a compound which modifies the surface tension between two surfaces or phases. Generally speaking, these compounds are amphiphilic molecules and make it possible to solubilize two immiscible phases of a composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one surfactant is chosen from the group comprising non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one surfactant is a non-ionic surfactant.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least surfactant is chosen from the group of nonionic surfactants consisting of: polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, glycerin alkyl ethers, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, glycerin fatty acid, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one surfactant is an anionic surfactant.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one surfactant is an anionic surfactant chosen from the group consisting of: alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether phosphates, sulfonates , alkyl sulfates, polyaspartates, their derivatives and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one surfactant is an amphoteric surfactant.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is at least 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is between 0.1% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one aqueous phase.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase consists of water.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one organic solvent miscible with water.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water chosen from the group consisting of lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ketones and short chain C ₂ to C ₄ aldehydes.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 95% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 5 and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 5 and 60% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 50% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 10 and 40% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

1. on dispose d’un précipité issu d’un procédé de fractionnement du beurre de karité,
2. on met en œuvre une étape de saponification dudit précipité dans une solution de soude et/ou de potasse concentrée,
3. on effectue une dilution dans l’eau à chaud et une décantation à chaud,
4. on procède à l’élimination de la phase savonneuse pour obtenir une phase légère,
5. on procède au lavage de la phase légère obtenue à l’étape d) à l’eau déminéralisée et/ou avec une solution saline,
6. on effectue un séchage de ladite phase légère lavée obtenue à l’étape e),

ledit procédé étant réalisé en absence de solvant de la famille des alcanes linéaires, ramifiés et/ou cycliques, et/ou de la famille des composés aromatiques et/ou l’étape de saponification b) étant effectuée en l’absence d’alcool.Another object according to the present invention relates to a process for obtaining a shea butter extract according to the invention characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

1. we have a precipitate resulting from a shea butter fractionation process,
2. a step of saponification of said precipitate is carried out in a solution of concentrated soda and/or potash,
3. a dilution is carried out in hot water and a hot decantation,
4. we proceed to eliminate the soapy phase to obtain a light phase,
5. the light phase obtained in step d) is washed with demineralized water and/or with a saline solution,
6. drying of said washed light phase obtained in step e),

said process being carried out in the absence of solvent from the family of linear, branched and/or cyclic alkanes, and/or from the family of aromatic compounds and/or the saponification step b) being carried out in the absence of alcohol.

In one embodiment, saponification step b) is carried out in the absence of ethanol.

The absence of a treatment step with a solvent from the family of linear, branched and/or cyclic alkanes, and/or from the family of aromatic compounds has the advantage of ensuring the naturalness of the product obtained, also makes it possible to work in non-ATEX conditions and increase the yield of unsaponifiables.

The absence of the use of alcohol as a solvent in the saponification step b) makes it possible to work at a higher temperature, thus improving vigorous agitation because the viscosity remains moderate whereas it would tend to increase gradually. and as triglycerides are transformed into soaps at low temperatures. In the presence of ethanol, the yield of unsaponifiable fraction according to the invention is significantly altered, the alcohol causing a significant part of the unsaponifiable fraction according to the invention during washing with water. The absence of ethanol therefore also makes it possible to increase the yield in terms of unsaponifiable content.

In one embodiment, the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process available is obtained by fractionation of raw, semi-refined and/or refined shea butter.

In one embodiment, the fractionation is carried out by treatment with acetone, at the reflux temperature of the acetone then cooled to room temperature to eliminate the stearin and olein fractions and obtain the precipitate resulting from the fractionation process. shea butter.

Said precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process is then subjected to a drying step to obtain the dry precipitate.

In one embodiment, the acetone treatment step is carried out for less than an hour.

In one embodiment, the acetone treatment step is carried out for approximately thirty minutes.

In one embodiment, the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process is obtained with a production yield of at least 1% by weight of dry precipitate relative to the dry weight of shea butter from which the process of splitting is implemented.

In one embodiment, the production yield of precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process is at least 3% by weight of dry precipitate relative to the dry weight of shea butter from which the process is implemented. artwork.

In one embodiment, the drying step to obtain the dry precipitate is carried out under vacuum.

In one embodiment, step b) further comprises heating to a temperature greater than or equal to 60°C with stirring until the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process previously dried under vacuum has completely melted.

In one embodiment, step b) further comprises heating to a temperature greater than or equal to 80°C with stirring until significant softening of the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process previously dried under vacuum.

The advantage of using a precipitate from the significantly softened shea butter fractionation process is that it allows a moderate viscosity to be maintained and the reaction medium can be vigorously stirred.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "concentrated soda solution" or "concentrated potash solution" means a solution of soda or potash concentrated to at least 1% (w/w) by weight of soda or potash relative to to the total weight of the soda or potash solution.

In one embodiment, the soda or potash solution used in step b) is concentrated at 5% (w/w) by dry weight of soda or potash relative to the total weight of the soda or potash solution. potash.

In one embodiment, the soda or potash solution used in step b) is concentrated at 10% (w/v) by dry weight of soda or potash relative to the total weight of the soda or potash solution. potash.

In one embodiment, at least one of steps b), d) and/or e) is carried out hot.

In one embodiment, all of steps b), d) and e) are carried out hot.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hot” process step means any step carried out at a temperature above 90°C.

In one embodiment, step b) is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 100°C.

In one embodiment, step b) is carried out at a temperature above approximately 120°C.

In one embodiment, step c), is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 100°C.

In one embodiment, step c) is carried out at a temperature above approximately 120°C.

In one embodiment, step c), is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 100°C.

In one embodiment, step c) is carried out at a temperature above approximately 120°C.

In one embodiment, step e) is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 100°C.

In one embodiment, step e) is carried out at a temperature above approximately 120°C.

In one embodiment, steps b), c), d) and d) are carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 100°C.

In one embodiment, steps b), c), d) and d) are carried out at a temperature above a temperature of approximately 120°C.

Carrying out the process steps hot makes it possible to lower the viscosity of the reaction medium, to carry out the saponification of fatty acids and glycerides almost completely and in a relatively short time compared to a reaction which would be carried out at less than 90 °C. Likewise, a high temperature prevents the crystallization of the extract according to the invention which would have the consequence, in addition to an alteration of the yield, the clogging of the installation, up to the impossibility of draining the reactor in order to recover the extract according to the invention.

The applicant, in a particularly surprising and unexpected manner, has succeeded in significantly lowering the relative content of triterpene alcohols and sterols and/or methyl sterols of the shea butter extract according to the invention by implementing step c) hot.

In one embodiment, step e) is repeated at least twice.

In one embodiment, step e) is repeated at least five times.

The repetition of the washing steps allows the neutralization of the solution, making it more easily formulated, particularly in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical compositions.

Drying step f) can be carried out by any means conventionally known to those skilled in the art.

In one embodiment, step f) is carried out under vacuum.

In one embodiment, step f) is carried out at a temperature above 100°C.

In one embodiment, the process further comprises a step of grinding the shea butter extract obtained.

The advantage of a grinding step is to make the extract more easily formulated, particularly in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical compositions.

In one embodiment, the process further comprises a step of hydrogenating the shea butter extract.

In one embodiment of the process according to the invention, the hydrogenation of the shea butter extract according to the invention is carried out in an organic solvent in the presence of at least one homogeneous or heterogeneous metal catalyst, comprising at least one hydrogenating metal included in the group of nickel, copper, cobalt, platinum, ruthenium, rhenium and/or palladium.

In one embodiment, the hydrogenation reaction is carried out under a hydrogen pressure greater than 1 bar.

In one embodiment of the process according to the invention, the hydrogenation reaction is at a temperature above 60°C.

In one embodiment, the process further comprises a step of re-solubilization in a solvent of the shea butter extract according to the invention and of cold recrystallization.

In one embodiment, the method further comprises a step of decolorization of the shea butter extract according to the invention.

In one embodiment, the discoloration is carried out with hydrogen peroxide.

In one embodiment, the method further comprises a step of treating the shea butter extract according to the invention with ethanol.

Another object of the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention to maintain and/or increase the hydration of healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes, in particular to maintain and/or reduce insensible water losses and/or to maintain and/or increase the water content of healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes, and/or to prevent and/or slow down the appearance of signs of dry skin in healthy skin and/or mucosal membranes of healthy mucous membranes and/or to maintain and/or increase the shine of healthy skin and/or healthy integuments, in particular healthy lips and/or healthy hair, and/or to smooth healthy hair and/or or to prevent and/or reduce wrinkles in healthy skin and/or to mattify healthy skin and/or reduce the shine of healthy skin.

According to the present invention, the term “cosmetic use” means a non-therapeutic, non-pharmaceutical use of the shea butter extract according to the invention, on all or part of the healthy skin and/or healthy integuments and/or the healthy mucous membranes.

For the purposes of the present invention, “insensible water losses” means passive diffusion and insensible perspiration measured at the cutaneous or mucosal level. Also called transepidermal water losses or TEWL (trans epidermal water loss), insensible water losses can be measured by different methods, notably in vivo, in particular via an evaporimeter, a tewameter, in particular in vitro, in particular by the open cylinder technique. and/or ex vivo according to the methods conventionally used by those skilled in the art.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “water content of the skin and/or mucous membranes” means the quantity of water contained in the epithelia, in particular the epidermis and/or the epithelium of the mucous membranes. This content thus reflects the state of hydration. There are different methods for measuring the water content of the skin and/or mucous membranes, notably in vivo and in particular via the corneometer, and/or by measuring desquamation via the corneofix (corneometry), or in vitro, in particular via the measurement of dielectric conductivity according to the methods conventionally used by those skilled in the art.

Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic care process for maintaining and/or increasing the hydration of healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes, in particular for maintaining and/or reducing insensible water losses and/or for maintaining and/or increase the water content of healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes, and/or to prevent and/or slow down the appearance of signs of dry skin in healthy skin and/or mucosa of healthy mucous membranes and/or to maintain and/or increase the shine of healthy skin and/or healthy skin appendages, including healthy lips and/or healthy hair, and/or to smooth healthy hair and/or to prevent and/or reduce skin wrinkles healthy and/or to mattify healthy skin and/or reduce the shine of healthy skin, characterized in that it comprises application topically to at least one area of healthy skin and/or healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membrane of a shea butter extract according to the present invention or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising it.

Another object of the present invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the invention to modify the rheology of a composition, and/or to gel an oily composition and/or a glycol and/or an alcohol and/or the fatty phase of a composition and/or the aqueous phase of a composition, and/or to maintain and/or increase the stability of an emulsion and/or to increase the hydrophobic character of a composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “modifying the rheology of a composition” means any modification of the viscosity and/or the plasticity and/or the elasticity of the composition.

In one embodiment, the modification of the rheology of the composition corresponds to maintaining and/or increasing viscosity, and/or maintaining and/or increasing plasticity and/or maintaining and/or increasing plasticity. increased elasticity of the composition.

Viscosity, plasticity and/or elasticity measurements can be carried out by all the methods conventionally used by those skilled in the art.

One embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent in a composition.

One embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention to gel an oily composition, said oily composition being chosen from the list comprising mineral oils, vegetable oils and/or their ester-type derivatives, mineral oils, esterified oils and/or linear and/or branched alkanes from C10 to C44.

One embodiment according to the invention concerns the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent for polyols.

One embodiment according to the invention concerns the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent for glycols and/or glycerol and/or polyglycerols.

One embodiment according to the invention concerns the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent for polyethylene glycol and/or propylene glycol.

One embodiment according to the invention concerns the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a glycol gelling agent in a toothpaste composition.

One embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent and/or for gelling alcohols.

One embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent and/or for gelling denatured ethyl alcohols (INCI: ALCOHOL DENAT) and/or isopropyl alcohols ( INCI: ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL) and/or fatty alcohols from C6 to C44.

One embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a thickener in a composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “maintain and/or increase the stability of an emulsion” means maintaining a homogeneous mixture and/or preventing the emulsion from separating into its two constituent phases.

In one embodiment, the emulsions are oil-in-water emulsions.

In one embodiment, the emulsions are water-in-oil emulsions.

One embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention to increase the hydrophobic nature of a cosmetic composition, in particular for the manufacture of varnishes and/or foundations and /or sunscreen products and/or products for the cosmetic treatment of eyelashes.

Another object of the present invention relates to a process for modifying the rheology of a composition, and/or gelling an oily composition and/or a glycol and/or an alcohol and/or the phase aqueous phase of a composition and/or the fatty phases of a composition, and/or stabilizing an emulsion and/or increasing the hydrophobic nature of a composition, in particular of a cosmetic composition, in particular for the manufacture of varnishes and/or foundations and/or sunscreen products, and/or products for the cosmetic treatment of eyelashes, characterized in that it comprises the addition in said composition or in said emulsion of a shea butter extract according to the invention.

One embodiment according to the invention relates to a process for gelling an oily composition characterized in that it comprises the addition to said alcohol of a shea butter extract according to the invention, said oily composition being chosen from the list including mineral oils, vegetable oils, mineral oils, esterified oils and/or linear and/or branched alkanes from C10 to C40.

One embodiment according to the invention relates to a process for gelling a denatured ethyl alcohol (INCI: ALCOHOL DENAT) and/or an isopropyl alcohol (INCI: ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL) and/or fatty alcohols from C6 to C44, characterized in that it comprises the addition to said alcohol of a shea butter extract according to the invention.

Another object of the present invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the invention as substitutes and/or equivalent of paraffins of fossil origin, dimethicones, lanolin and/or petrolatum, and/or natural waxes in particular beeswax, carnauba and/or candelilla wax, particularly in the field of coatings, inks, varnishes, papers, cardboard, adhesives, candles, materials plastics, rubbers, food products, cosmetics and/or pharmaceutical products.

Another object of the present invention relates to a process for substituting a compound chosen from the list consisting of paraffins of fossil origin, dimethicones, lanolin and/or petrolatum and/or natural waxes in particular beeswax, carnauba wax and /or candelilla, in particular in the field of coatings, inks, varnishes, papers, cardboards, adhesives, candles, plastics, rubbers, food products, cosmetics and/or pharmaceutical products characterized in that the substitution is carried out by replacing the compound with a shea butter extract according to the invention.

Another object of the present invention relates to a shea butter extract according to the invention for its use alone or in a pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological, in the treatment and/or prevention of burned skin and/or mucous membranes and/or cracks and/or scabies and/or pityriasis alba and/or atopic dermatitis and/or ichthyosis and/or dryness of the skin and/or mucous membranes which accompany skin conditions and/or or pathologies of the mucous membranes such as eczema, and/or to maintain or improve the state of hydration of the skin and/or mucous membranes of damaged, sensitive, sensitized, altered, intolerant, fragile and/or damaged skin and/or mucous membranes. or reactive, and/or in the treatment of scaly conditions and/or itching linked to dryness of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or in the treatment and/or prevention of lice and/or parasites and/or as an SPF booster.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "SPF booster" means a formulation intended to increase sun protection against UVA and/or UVB in association with chemical and/or mineral sun filters.

One embodiment according to the invention relates to the shea butter extract according to the invention for its use as an anti-lice and/or anti-parasitic agent by oxygen-depriving occlusive effect.

Another object according to the invention relates to a method of therapeutic treatment and/or prevention of burned skin and/or mucous membranes and/or cracks and/or scabies and/or pityriasis alba and/or atopic dermatitis and/or ichthyosis and/or states of dryness of the skin and/or mucous membranes which accompany skin conditions and/or pathologies of the mucous membranes such as eczema, and/or to maintain or improve the state of hydration of the skin and/or mucous membranes of damaged, sensitive, sensitized, altered, intolerant, fragile and/or reactive skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or in the treatment of scaly conditions and/or itching linked to dryness of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or in the treatment and/or prevention of lice and/or parasites and/or as an SPF booster characterized in that it comprises application to the area to be treated of a shea butter extract according to the invention.

In the examples, all percentages are given by weight unless otherwise stated, temperature is in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated.

Example 1: Process for obtaining from an extract shea butter according to the invention .

Splitting Shea Butter

A quantity of 1 kg of raw shea butter (Origin: Ghana) is mixed with 5 liters of acetone in a stirred reactor equipped with a condenser. The mixture is brought to reflux for 30 minutes until the shea butter has completely dissolved. The mixture is then cooled to 25°C for one hour then filtered and drained under vacuum. After elimination of the liquid phase comprising olein and stearin, a brown to light brown precipitate A is recovered with a yield of 3.2%, or 32 g of material.

Process for obtaining a shea butter extract according to the invention

The precipitate A from the shea butter fractionation process is brought to 80°C with stirring until complete fusion. A quantity of 160 g of 10% sodium hydroxide solution is added. The mixture is brought to reflux with stirring at a temperature of 120° C. for 30 minutes. A quantity of 100 g of water is added to the mixture with constant stirring, and the temperature is maintained at 120°C for 2 hours. Agitation is stopped and the mixture is left to settle for 2 hours at 120°C. The heavy soapy phase is then separated and discarded. The light phase is washed with 100 g of demineralized water. After decantation, the heavy aqueous phase is separated and discarded. The washing operation with demineralized water is repeated 5 times until a pH of 6.5 is obtained. The light phase is then dried under vacuum at 500 mbar and with stirring at 140° C. for 3 hours. We obtain a shea butter extract according to the invention which is in solid form of light beige color.

The shea butter extract according to the invention is finally finely ground and dried under vacuum (40 mbar) in an oven at 60°C for 48 hours. The final yield extracted from shea butter according to the invention in relation to the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process is 43% or 13.7 g of material.

Example 2: Determination of characteristics physicochemical of the extract of shea butter according to the invention.

The determination of the saponification index is carried out using the standardized method NF ISO 3657.

The determination of the acid number index is carried out using the standardized method NF EN ISO 660

The determination of the iodine index is carried out using the standardized NF NF ISO 3961 method.

The determination of the unsaponifiable content is carried out using the standardized method NF EN ISO 18609.

The determination of the relative content of triterpene alcohols and sterols and/or methyl sterols is carried out by gas chromatography as follows.

• Chromatographe GC-FID VARIAN 3800
• Colonne capillaire BP5-MS : L30m, DI 0.32mm, épaisseur de la phase stationnaire 0.25µm
• Volume de solution injectée : 2µl
• Température de l'injecteur : 260°C
• Température de la colonne : 60°C pendant 1min, puis montée en température de 30°C/min jusqu’à 180°C, palier de 5 minutes à 180°C, puis nouvelle montée en température de 3°C/min jusqu’à 285°C
• Température du détecteur : 290°C
• Gaz vecteur : hydrogène
• Débit du gaz vecteur : 1ml/min

A quantity of 0.5 g of shea butter extract to be tested and 2 ml of 2M ethanolic potassium hydroxide solution are introduced into a 10 ml test tube. The test tube is then closed with a tight cap and then shaken vigorously using a vortex shaker. It is then heated to 90°C in an oil bath for 30 minutes then cooled to room temperature. A quantity of 2 ml of hexane, 0.2 ml of ethanol and 1 ml of demineralized water are added. The mixture is then vigorously stirred using a vortex mixer. The mixture is left to settle for 30 minutes. A quantity of 1.5 ml of the supernatant hexanic phase is taken and introduced into a vial tube. A quantity of 1 ml of pyridine comprising 1 mg of sorbitol per ml of pyridine, 0.5 ml of hexamethyldisilazane and 0.5 g of chlorotrimethylsilane are added to this solution. The mixture is then filtered through a filter cartridge (0.45µm syringe filter). The filtrate is then analyzed by gas chromatography GC-FID under the following conditions:

• GC-FID VARIAN 3800 Chromatograph
• BP5-MS capillary column: L30m, ID 0.32mm, stationary phase thickness 0.25µm
• Volume of solution injected: 2µl
• Injector temperature: 260°C
• Column temperature: 60°C for 1min, then temperature rise of 30°C/min up to 180°C, 5 minutes level at 180°C, then further temperature rise of 3°C/min until at 285°C
• Detector temperature: 290°C
• Carrier gas: hydrogen
• Carrier gas flow: 1ml/min

The results are expressed in relative proportion to the total weight of the compound to be tested.

The determination of the softening temperature and decomposition temperature is carried out by DSC-TGA according to the method as follows.

A quantity of 50 mg of the shea butter extract according to the invention is placed in a platinum crucible. An SDT Q600 V8.3 Build 101 calorimeter equipped with a standard DSC-TGA model is used for thermal analysis. The analysis is carried out in the presence of air whose flow rate is set at 100 ml/min. The crucible is then gradually heated at a temperature ramp of 10°C/min, the analysis temperature range being between 25 and 800°C.

The results of the different tests are presented in table 1. Raw shea butter Precipitate A according to Example 1 Shea butter extract according to the invention according to Example 1 Saponification index (mg KOH/g) 173.18 127.0 7.9 Acid number (mg KOH/g) 6.2 11.0 1.0 Iodine index (I ₂ /100 g) 62.0 64.0 100.3 Unsaponifiable content (%) 9.2 16.4 91.1 Relative triterpene alcohol content (%) 68.4 16.2 1.8 Relative content of sterols methylsterols (%) 9.7 3.9 0.6 Softening temperature (degree Celsius) <20 <25 >180 Decomposition temperature (degree Celsius) > 400 > 400 >480

Conclusion: The shea butter extract according to the invention has completely new physicochemical properties. The unsaponifiable content of shea butter extract is very high (> 90%). The fraction of unsaponifiable compounds is very significantly depleted in triterpene alcohols and sterols/methylsterols compared to the unsaponifiable fraction of shea butter.

Example 3: Demonstration of the gelling and thickening power of the extract of shea butter according to the invention in a vegetable oil.

The shea butter extract according to the invention as obtained in Example 1 is mixed with a refined sweet almond oil (INCI: Prunus dulcis (Almond) seed oil - Supplier: Pharmac) in the proportions indicated in Table 2, to reach a final weight of 200g.

The mixture is heated with magnetic stirring for several minutes, until the mixture reaches 85°C.

It is then mixed using a rotor/stator at 3000 rpm until the mixture reaches 40°C.

It is then mixed with planetary stirring up to 25°C.

The measurement is carried out using an NDJ-1 viscometer using the mobile 4 to 12 rpm for 1 min

The results are presented in Table 2. The proportions are indicated by weight. Viscosity
(in mPa.s) Refined sweet almond oil <500 5% Shea butter extract according to example 1 + 95% Refined sweet almond oil 4,500 10% Shea butter extract according to example 1 + 90% Refined sweet almond oil 27,000 15% Shea butter extract according to example 1 + 85% Refined sweet almond oil 78,000

Conclusions: When dispersed hot in refined sweet almond oil, the shea butter extract according to the invention significantly increases the viscosity of the mixture. The oily gel obtained is opaque, homogeneous and its viscosity increases with the percentage of shea butter extract according to the invention incorporated into the mixture.

Thus, the shea butter extract according to the invention makes it possible to modify the rheology of the composition, in particular to increase the viscosity and to gel an oily composition.

Example 4 : Demonstration of the gelling and thickening power of the extract of shea butter according to the invention an esterified oil .

The shea butter extract according to the invention as obtained in Example 1 is mixed with a caprylic/capric triglyceride oil (Myritol® 318 BASF) in the proportions indicated in Table 3, to achieve a final weight of 200g.

The mixture is heated with magnetic stirring for several minutes, until the mixture reaches 85°C.

It is then mixed using a rotor/stator at 3000 rpm until the mixture reaches 40°C.

It is then mixed with planetary stirring up to 25°C.

The measurement is carried out using an NDJ-1 viscometer using the mobile 4 to 12 rpm for 1 min.

The results are presented in Table 3. The proportions are indicated by weight. Viscosity
(in mPa.s) Myritol® 318 <500 5% Shea butter extract according to example 1 + 95% Myritol® 318 2,500 10% Shea butter extract according to example 1 + 90% Myritol® 318 14,500 15% Shea butter extract according to example 1 + 85% Myritol® 318 35,000

Conclusion: When dispersed hot in Myritol® 318, the shea butter extract according to the invention significantly increases the viscosity of the mixture. The oily gel obtained is opaque, homogeneous and its viscosity increases with the percentage of shea butter extract according to the invention incorporated into the mixture. Thus, the shea butter extract according to the invention makes it possible to modify the rheology of the composition, in particular to increase the viscosity and to gel the oily composition.

Example 5: Composition according to the invention in the form of oil-in-water emulsion.

A composition according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion constituted from the following three phases, has a weight composition as indicated below. Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % HAS Montanov 68 SEPPIC Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside 3.00 Cetiol c5 BASF Coco-caprylate 6.00 Shea butter extract according to example 1 5.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic/capric triglyceride 6.00 B Xanthan gum 80 mesh QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.30 Demineralized Water - Aqua (water) QSP Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 3.00 VS Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) methylparaben 0.80

The process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a glass beaker of suitable size and this mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C with magnetic stirring. Meanwhile, in a glass beaker of suitable size, the ingredients of phase B are mixed and this mixture is heated up to 85°C with magnetic stirring. When the two phases A and B have reached the temperature of 85°C, phase A is poured slowly into phase B, with stirring in the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. Agitation is maintained for 5 minutes then the whole is cooled using a cold water bath, with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until that the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of the phase are added C at 30°C with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm until complete homogenization.

Example 6 : Composition according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

A composition according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion constituted from the following four phases, has a weight composition as indicated below. Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % HAS Montanov 68 SEPPIC Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside 3.00 Paraffin oil codex standard l AIGLON Paraffinum liquidum 6.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic/capric triglyceride 6.00 B1 Shea butter extract according to example 1 0.25 Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 10.00 B2 Xanthan gum 80 mesh QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.10 Demineralized Water - Aqua (water) QSP VS Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) methylparaben 0.80

The process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a glass beaker of suitable size and this mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C with magnetic stirring. Meanwhile, in a glass beaker of suitable size, the ingredients of phase B1 are mixed and this mixture is heated up to 85°C with magnetic stirring. When phase B1 has reached the temperature of 85°C, it is mixed with the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes then cooled while stirring with the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm, until the mixture reaches a temperature of 50°C. Phase B2 is heated to 85°C with magnetic stirring. When the two phases A and B2 have reached the temperature of 85°C, phase A is poured slowly into phase B, with stirring in the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. Agitation is maintained for 5 minutes then the whole is cooled using a cold water bath, with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until that the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of phase C are added as well as mixture B1 at 30°C with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm until complete homogenization.

Example 7 : Composition according to the invention in the form of emulsion water in L' oil .

A composition according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion constituted from the following three phases, has a weight composition as indicated below Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % HAS Diisostearic plurol GATTEFOSSE Polyglyceryl-3 diisosteate 5.00 Paraffin oil codex standard l AIGLON Paraffinum liquidum 10.00 Shea butter extract according to example 1 3.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic/capric triglyceride 8.00 B Xanthan gum 80 mesh QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.30 Demineralized Water - Aqua (water) QSP Ronacare magnesium sulfate MERCK KGAA Magnesium sulfate 1.00 Ronacare sodium chloride MERCK KGAA Sodium chloride 1.00 Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 5.00 VS Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (And) Ethylparaben (And) Methylparaben 0.80

The process for preparing a water-in-oil emulsion essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a glass beaker of suitable size and this mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C with magnetic stirring. Meanwhile, in a glass beaker of suitable size, the ingredients of phase B are mixed and this mixture is heated up to 85°C with magnetic stirring. When the two phases A and B have reached the temperature of 85°C, phase B is poured slowly into phase A, with stirring in the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. Agitation is maintained for 5 minutes then the whole is cooled using a cold water bath, with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until that the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of the phase are added C at 30°C with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm until complete homogenization.

Example 8 : Composition according to the invention in the form water-in-oil emulsion .

A composition according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion constituted from the following three phases, has a weight composition as indicated below. Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % HAS Diisostearic plurol GATTEFOSSÉ Polyglyceryl-3 diisosteate 5.00 Paraffin oil codex standard l AIGLON Paraffinum liquidum 10.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic/capric triglyceride 8.00 B Xanthan gum 80 mesh QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.30 Shea butter extract according to example 1 - 3.00 Demineralized Water - Aqua (water) QSP Ronacare magnesium sulfate MERCK KGAA Magnesium sulfate 1.00 Ronacare sodium chloride MERCK KGAA Sodium chloride 1.00 Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 5.00 VS Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) methylparaben 0.80

The process for preparing a water-in-oil emulsion is identical to that according to Example 7.

Example 9 : Composition according to the invention in the form sunscreen .

A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a sun cream constituted from the following three phases, has a weight composition as indicated below. Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % HAS Montanov 68 SEPPIC Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside 3.00 Montanov SEPPIC Coco-glucoside & coconut alcohol 2.00 Shea butter extract according to example 1 5.00 Tinosorb s BASF Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 3.00 Uvinul mc80 BASF Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 8.00 Uvinyl t150 BASF Ethylhexyl triazone 4.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.00 B Xanthan gum 80 mesh QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.30 Demineralized Water - Aqua (water) QSP Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 5.00 VS Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) methylparaben 0.80

The process of preparing a sunscreen essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a glass beaker of a suitable size and this mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C with magnetic stirring. Meanwhile, in a glass beaker of suitable size, the ingredients of phase B are mixed and this mixture is heated up to 85°C with magnetic stirring. When the two phases A and B have reached the temperature of 85°C, phase A is poured slowly into phase B, with stirring in the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. Agitation is maintained for 5 minutes then the whole is cooled using a cold water bath, with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until that the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of phase C are added at 30°C with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm until complete homogenization.

Example 10 : Composition according to the invention in the form a mattifying serum .

A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a mattifying serum constituted from the following three phases has a weight composition as indicated below. Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % HAS Shea butter extract according to example 1 1.25 Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 50.00 B Xanthan gum 80 mesh QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.10 Demineralized Water - Aqua (water) QSP VS Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) methylparaben 0.80

The process for preparing a mattifying serum essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a glass beaker of a suitable size and this mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C with magnetic stirring. When phase A has reached a temperature of 85°C, it is mixed with the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes then cooled while stirring with the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm, until the mixture reaches a temperature of 50°C. During this time, phase B is heated to 50°C with magnetic stirring. When the two phases A and B have reached the temperature of 50°C, phase A is poured slowly into phase B, with stirring in the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. Agitation is maintained for 5 minutes then the whole is cooled using a cold water bath, with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until that the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of the phase are added C under planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm until complete homogenization.

Example 11 : Composition according to the invention in the form a sun stick .

A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a sun stick has a weight composition as indicated below. Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % HAS Kahlwax 8108 Kahl GmbH & Co Cera alba (beewax) 12.00 Carnauba waxt1 NATURA-TEC Copernicia cerifera cera 3.50 Naturasoft shea NATURA-TEC Butyrospermum parkii butter 4.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic/capric triglyceride QSP Shea butter extract according to example 1 5.00 Solaveil cz-300 CRODA Zinc oxide & caprylic/capric triglyceride & polyhydroxystearic acid & isostearic acid 30.00 Solaveil xt-300 CRODA Titanium dioxide (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride & polyhydroxystearic acid & stearic acid & alumina 20.00 Cithrol pg32is CRODA Polyglyceryl-3 diisosteate 2.00

The process of preparing a sun stick essentially consists of mixing all the ingredients of phase A one by one in a glass beaker of a suitable size. Heat this mixture to a temperature of 85°C with magnetic stirring. When the mixture has reached the temperature of 85°C, mix the mixture with the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes then poured into suitable packaging.

Example 12 : Composition according to the invention in the form a lipstick .

A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a lipstick constituted from the following two phases has a weight composition as indicated below. Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % HAS Natura-tec jojoba oil NATURA-TEC Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil 10.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic/capric triglyceride 18.00 Mod mb GATTEFOSSÉ Octyldodecyl myristate 18.00 Shea butter extract according to example 1 5.00 B Kahlwax 8108 Kahl GmbH & Co Cera alba (beewax) 10.00 Natura-tec carnauba waxt1 NATURA-TEC Carnauba wax 6.50 Natura-tec candelilla wax NATURA-TEC Candelilla wax 5.00 Lipocire has GATTEFOSSÉ C10-18 triglycerides 2.00 Dk pgt paste r7 Daito Kasei Polyglyceryl-2 triisosteate, red 7 18.00 Dk pgt paste ti Daito Kasei Titanium dioxide, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, aluminum hydroxide 7.00 Bioxan sf t50 QUIMASSO Tocopherol 0.50

The process of preparing a lipstick essentially consists of mixing all the ingredients of phase A one by one in a glass beaker of suitable size. This mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C with magnetic stirring. When the mixture has reached the temperature of 85°C, mix the mixture with the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. All the ingredients of phase B are mixed one by one in a glass beaker of suitable size. This mixture is heated to 85°C with magnetic stirring. When the mixture has reached a temperature of 85°C, cool with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained reaches 70°C. Phase A is added to phase B then poured into a suitable mold.

Example 13 : Composition according to the invention in the form of a face powder in water-in-oil emulsion .

A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a foundation constituted from the following five phases has a weight composition as indicated below. Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % A1 Unipure white lc987 ba FEEL Ci 77891 (and) persea gratissima (avocado) oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil (and) tocopherol 20.30 Unipure yellow lc182 ba FEEL Ci 77492 (and) persea gratissima (avocado) oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil (and) tocopherol 2.60 Unipure red lc381 ba FEEL Ci 77491 (and) persea gratissima (avocado) oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil (and) tocopherol 0.85 Unipure black lc989 ba FEEL Ci 77499 (and) persea gratissima (avocado) oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil (and) tocopherol 0.20 Refined castor oil OLVEA Ricinus communis seed oil 4.50 A2 Diisostearic plurol GATTEFOSSÉ Polyglyceryl-3 diisosteate 1.00 Cithrol pg3pr CRODA Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate 3.00 A3 Shea butter extract according to example 1 2.50 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.00 Cetiol c5 BASF Coco-caprylate 4.00 B Demineralized Water - Aqua (water) QSP Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 3.00 VS Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) methylparaben 0.80

The process of preparing a foundation essentially consists of preparing phase A1 by mixing the ingredients and pasting them using a three-cylinder grinder. The operation is repeated 3 times. In a glass beaker of suitable size, the ingredients of phase A3 are mixed. This mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C with magnetic stirring. When the mixture has reached the temperature of 85°C, the mixture is mixed with the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. In a glass beaker of suitable size, the ingredients of phase A1 are mixed with the ingredients of phase A2 and this mixture is heated up to 85°C with magnetic stirring. Phase A3 is then incorporated into the mixture of phases A1 and A2. Meanwhile, in a glass beaker of suitable size, the ingredients of phase B are mixed and this mixture is heated up to 85°C with magnetic stirring. When the two phases A1+A2+A3 and B have reached the temperature of 85°C, phase B is poured slowly into phase A1+A2+A3, with stirring in the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm . Agitation is maintained for 5 minutes then the whole is cooled using a cold water bath, with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until that the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of phase C are added at 30°C with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm until complete homogenization.

Example 14 : Composition according to the invention in the form from the bottom of your heart int in emulsion oil in L' water .

A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion foundation constituted from the following five phases has a weight composition as indicated below. Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % HAS Montanov 68 SEPPIC Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside 3.00 Lanette o BASF Cetearyl alcohol 2.00 Cetiol oe BASF Dicaprylyl ether 4.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.00 Lipocire has GATTEFOSSÉ C10-18 triglycerides 3.00 B1 Covarine white wn 9787 FEEL Titanium dioxide, water, glycerin, xanthan gum, sodium citrate 12.00 Covarine yellow wn 1798 FEEL Iron oxides, water, glycerin, xanthan gum, sodium citrate 3.50 Covarine red wn 3798 FEEL Iron oxides, water, glycerin, xanthan gum, sodium citrate 0.95 Covarine black wn 9798 FEEL Iron oxides, water, glycerin, xanthan gum, sodium citrate 0.32 B2 Demineralized Water - Aqua (water) QSP Shea butter extract according to example 1 2.50 Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 3.00 Xanthan gum 80 mesh QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.30 VS Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) methylparaben 0.80

The process for preparing water-in-oil emulsion foundation essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a glass beaker of suitable size, and this mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C while stirring. magnetic. Meanwhile, in a glass beaker of suitable size, the ingredients of phase B1 are mixed. Likewise, in a glass beaker of suitable size, the ingredients of phase B2 are mixed and the mixture is heated to 85°C with magnetic stirring. When the B2 mixture has reached the temperature of 85°C, it is mixed with the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm for 5 minutes. Phase B1 is then added to phase B2 then mixed again with the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm for 5 minutes. When the two phases A and (B1+B2) have reached the temperature of 85°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase (B1+B2), with stirring in the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm . Agitation is maintained for 5 minutes then the whole is cooled using a cold water bath, with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until that the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of the phase are added C at 30°C with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm until complete homogenization.

Example 15 : Composition according to the invention in the form a serum for hair treatment .

A cosmetic composition according to the invention in serum form for the treatment of hair constituted from the following three phases has a weight composition as indicated below. Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % HAS Shea butter extract according to example 1 5.00 Natura-tec sweet almond oil NATURA-TEC Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil 25.00 Natura-tec jojoba oil NATURA-TEC Simmondsia chinensis seed oil 12.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic/capric triglyceride 25.00 B Natura-tec coconut oil NATURA-TEC Cocos nucifera oil QSP VS Bioxan sft 50 QUIMASSO Tocopherol 0.50

The process of preparing serum for hair treatment essentially consists of mixing all the ingredients of phase A one by one in a glass beaker of suitable size. This mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C with magnetic stirring. When the mixture has reached the temperature of 85°C, the mixture is mixed with the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes then cooled under planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained reaches 60°C. Meanwhile, phase B is heated to 60°C in a glass beaker of suitable size. When phases A and B are at 60°C, phase B is poured into phase A with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until the temperature of the The emulsion thus obtained reaches 30°C. Phase C is then added at 30°C.

Example 16 : Composition according to the invention in the form toothpaste .

A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a toothpaste constituted from the following four phases, present a composition by weight as indicated below. Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % HAS Veegum d VANDERBILT Magnesium aluminum silicate 1.30 Demineralized Water - Aqua (water) 10.10 Sorbitol 70% BASF Sorbitol 25.00 B Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 10.00 Shea butter extract according to example 1 0.25 VS Dicalciumphosphate dihydrate - Dicalciumphosphate dihydrate QSP D Flavor - Flavor 1.00 Saccharin - Saccharin 0.20 Sodium benzoate - Sodium benzoate 0.20 Sodium lauryl sulfate - Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.50

The process for preparing a toothpaste essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase B in a glass beaker of suitable size and this mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C with magnetic stirring. When phase B has reached the temperature of 85°C, mix with the rotor/stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm. Agitation is maintained for 5 minutes then the whole is cooled using a cold water bath, with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until that the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained reaches 30°C. Then incorporate the ingredients of phase A, then C, then D into this mixture, with planetary stirring, at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm.

Example 17: Demonstration of the effect of the shea butter extract according to the invention on the melting temperature of a composition comprising it.

A quantity of 2 g of shea butter extract according to Example 1 and 98 g of hydrogenated castor oil previously heated to 80°C are introduced into a flask of suitable size equipped with mechanical stirring. The temperature of the mixture is raised to 150° C. for 20 minutes with stirring. We then take 50 mg of the mixture and of each of the two compounds taken separately in order to analyze them by DSC according to a protocol identical to that of Example 2. The results from the analysis of the thermograms give the following results: Compound Melting peak temperature Another melting peak Shea butter extract according to example 1 >180°C None Hydrogenated castor oil 88°C None Mixture Hydrogenated castor oil - Shea butter extract according to example 1 96°C None

Hydrogenated castor oil has a melting point of 88°C. The shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening point greater than 180°C. The hydrogenated castor oil-shea butter extract mixture according to the invention has a melting point of 96°C.

None of the 3 compounds analyzed by DSC present a melting point other than that observed.

The addition of the shea butter extract according to the invention makes it possible to produce a homogeneous mixture having a single melting point.

These results indicate that it is possible to produce a homogeneous mixture with a high melting point (> 85°C) consisting of a binary mixture based on shea butter extract according to the invention.

Claims (17)

Shea butter extract characterized in that it has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 85% (w/w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract and a relative content of triterpene alcohols less than or equals 20% (w/w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter. Shea butter extract according to claim 1, characterized in that it has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 90% (w/w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract. Shea butter extract according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it has a relative content of sterols and/or methyl sterols less than or equal to 10% (w/w) by weight of sterols and /or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter. Shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a saponification index less than or equal to 30 mg KOH/g. Shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a softening temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 160°C and/or a decomposition temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 450°C. Shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is hydrogenated. Shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is treated with an alcohol. Composition comprising a shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological, characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable support a shea butter extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 9, characterized in that it further comprises an active principle. Process for obtaining a shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

1. we have a precipitate resulting from a shea butter fractionation process,
2. a step of saponification of said precipitate is carried out in a solution of concentrated soda and/or potash,
3. a dilution is carried out in hot water and a hot decantation,
4. we proceed to eliminate the soapy phase to obtain a light phase,
5. the light phase obtained in step d) is washed with demineralized water and/or with a saline solution,
6. drying of said washed light phase obtained in step e),

said process being carried out in the absence of solvent from the family of linear, branched and/or cyclic alkanes, and/or from the family of aromatic compounds and/or the saponification step d) being carried out in the absence of alcohol. Method according to Claim 11, characterized in that steps b), d) and/or e) are carried out hot. Cosmetic use of a shea butter extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7 to maintain and/or increase the shine of healthy skin and/or healthy integuments, in particular healthy lips and/or healthy hair, and/or to straighten healthy hair to prevent and/or reduce wrinkles in healthy skin and/or to mattify healthy skin and/or reduce shine in healthy skin. Process for modifying the rheology of a composition, and/or gelling an oily composition and/or a glycol and/or an alcohol and/or the aqueous phase of a composition and/or the fatty phases of a composition, and/or stabilizing an emulsion and/or increasing the hydrophobic nature of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for the manufacture of varnishes and/or foundations complexion and/or sunscreen products, and/or product for the cosmetic treatment of eyelashes, characterized in that it comprises the addition in said composition or in said emulsion, of a shea butter extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7. Process according to claim 14, for gelling a denatured ethyl alcohol and/or an isopropyl alcohol and/or a C6 to C44 fatty alcohol and/or a polyol and/or a glycol and/or a glycerol and/or a polyglycerol and/ or a propylene glycol and/or a polyethylene glycol. Shea butter extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for its use in the treatment and/or prevention of burned skin and/or mucous membranes and/or cracks and/or scabies and/or pityriasis alba and/or atopic dermatitis and/or ichthyosis and/or states of dryness of the skin or mucous membranes which accompany skin conditions and/or pathologies of the mucous membranes such as eczema, and/or to maintain or improve the state of hydration of the skin and/or mucous membranes of damaged, sensitive, sensitized, altered, intolerant, fragile or reactive skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or in the treatment of scaly conditions and/or itching linked to dryness of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or in the treatment and/or prevention of lice and/or parasites and/or as an SPF booster. Use of a shea butter extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7 as substitutes and/or equivalent of paraffins of fossil origin, dimethicones, lanolin and/or petrolatum, and/ or natural waxes in particular beeswax, carnauba and/or candelilla wax, particularly in the field of coatings, inks, varnishes, papers, cardboard, adhesives, candles, plastics, rubbers , food products, cosmetics and pharmaceutical products.