FR3134518A1 - SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND SEMI-PERMANENT COLORING OF KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND SEMI-PERMANENT COLORING OF KERATIN FIBERS The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition, for the care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, comprising at least one direct coloring agent; at least one conditioning agent; and at least one fatty substance. The invention also relates to the use of the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, as well as a method of care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair.

Description

SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND SEMI-PERMANENT COLORING OF KERATIN FIBERS FIELD OF INVENTION

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition, for the care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, comprising at least one direct coloring agent; at least one conditioning agent; and at least one fatty substance.

The invention also relates to the use of the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, as well as a method of care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair.

STATE OF THE TECHNIQUE

Whether to camouflage white hair, try light-catching highlights, try a new color or even lighten the natural base of the hair by one tone, hair coloring is today a very popular practice that is used by more than 30% of women over 18 and almost 10% of men over 40.

In recent years, the practice of coloring at home has grown and the sale of coloring kits has increased. Indeed, whether for its economic aspect or its time saving, this trend affects around 26% of women in France.

Among the different types of existing coloring, semi-permanent and temporary coloring particularly appeals to people who want to experiment with hair trends but who fear endangering their natural color.

Indeed, semi-permanent treatments of human keratin fibers are well known in the prior art. Several products are available on the market in the form of lotions, shampoos, foams or emulsions. These cosmetic forms must have an ideal viscosity so as not to flow when applied to the keratin fibers. These formulations contain basic or cationic dyes of low molar mass, which have a high affinity with the keratin of the hair and can resist after three to twelve washes. The hair coloring process does not involve an oxidation reaction, as in permanent coloring, which greatly simplifies the process of using it at home. The application to the keratin fibers is simple and lasts from 1 to 40 min, followed by rinsing the said keratin fibers.

However, hair coloring, even semi-permanent, is not without risk and can damage the hair in the long term. Thus, more and more, consumers are looking for coloring products with additional benefits for the hair, such as for example softening, moisturizing, protective or regenerating properties of keratin fibers, thus encouraging manufacturers to develop hair coloring products with greater added value.

For example, we know patent EP2355904 relating to a composition allowing semi-permanent hair coloring while providing hair conditioning benefits. Said composition comprising in particular a cationic surfactant system, a direct dye, a high molecular weight fatty substance and an aqueous medium.

However, a major disadvantage of the composition according to patent EP2355904 and of the products available on the market in general is that they contain a large quantity of water, allowing the solubilization of the coloring agents.

This goes against new consumer expectations, namely the reduction in quantities of plastic but also in the overall carbon footprint over the entire life cycle of the product.

Indeed, the ecological impact of products has become one of the criteria of choice for consumers who have better knowledge of the cosmetic products they use.

An alternative to reduce the quantity of plastic per packaging compared to an equivalent standard product would be to eliminate water from the products and keep only the active raw materials. With this in mind, products in solid formats containing little or no water have emerged in recent years, particularly in shower gels, shampoos and conditioners.

However, there is no dye composition in anhydrous solid form which is satisfactory in terms of stability and which has a degree of dyeing quality similar to that of liquid dye compositions.

Thus, there is a need for a cosmetic composition suitable for the care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, in particular hair, which is solid and anhydrous, in order to meet new consumer expectations in terms of ecological impact and efficiency.

Such a composition must also have semi-permanent coloring properties similar to, or even superior to, those of liquid dye compositions and must be satisfactory in terms of stability and deposition on keratin fibers.

Thus, the present invention aims to provide a solid and anhydrous cosmetic composition, offering advantages of semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers while providing advantages of care for said keratin fibers such as for example softening, moisturizing, protective or regenerating properties of the keratin fibers. keratin fibers.

Indeed, the applicant has surprisingly discovered that a solid and anhydrous cosmetic composition, comprising at least one direct coloring agent; at least one conditioning agent; and at least one fatty substance, made it possible to achieve the objectives mentioned above.

Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is ready for use, that is to say it can be used by direct application to wet or damp hair without having to be diluted in a solvent such as water or a lotion in order to temporarily reconstitute a liquid product before use.

Another advantage is that the water provided by the wet or humid keratin fibers leads to the formation of an in situ emulsion of the composition according to the invention, allowing uniform deposition and more effective adhesion of the composition to the surface of the keratin fibers, thus leading to improved vectorization of direct coloring agents, active agents and conditioning agents on the surface of the keratin fibers. Emulsification with the water present on the keratin fibers thus leads to improved semi-permanent coloring and care properties for the keratin fibers.

Yet another advantage is that the solid composition, according to the invention, has a hardness high enough to ensure sufficient stability to the solid and allow multiple use over time without compromising its integrity. Also, due to its texture and its composition, the solid composition according to the invention makes it possible to ensure easy deposition on wet or humid keratin fibers, under light to moderate pressure and/or friction, in the hands of the user or directly on the keratin fibers, in order to provide uniform semi-permanent coloring and care for the keratin fibers.

SUMMARY

The invention relates to a solid, anhydrous and ready-to-use cosmetic composition for the care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, comprising:

- from 0.005% to 15% of at least one direct coloring agent;

- from 0.5% to 80% of at least one conditioning agent; And

- from 10% to 99% of at least one fatty substance,

in which the water content is less than 5%, preferably less than 3%,

the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the direct coloring agent is chosen from nonionic dyes such as nitrate dyes, azo dyes and anthraquinones; cationic dyes such as basic dyes; anionic dyes such as acid dyes; or a mixture of these.

In a preferred embodiment, the direct coloring agent(s) are chosen from non-ionic dyes, cationic dyes, or a mixture thereof. In a more preferred embodiment, the direct coloring agent(s) are chosen from cationic dyes.

According to one embodiment, the conditioning agent is chosen from cationic surfactants; cationic polymers; cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates; silicones; non-silicone fatty substances; moisturizing or humectant agents, in particular glycols and polyols which are in particular liquid; or a mixture of these.

In one embodiment, the conditioning agent is chosen from cationic surfactants such as salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines; quaternary ammonium salts having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl chain; or a mixture of these.

In a preferred embodiment, the conditioning agent(s) are chosen from cationic surfactants, more preferably from behentrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, or a mixture of these.

According to one embodiment, the fatty substance is chosen from alkanes; fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, synthetic triglycerides, oils such as non-silicone mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, non-silicone waxes, silicones, pasty fatty substances or butters or a mixture of these.

In a preferred embodiment, the fatty substance or the mixture of fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, butters, vegetable waxes, fatty acid esters, or a mixture of these.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least 0.05%, preferably from 0.05% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one surfactant. chosen from amphoteric, non-ionic, anionic surfactants, or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least 0.1%, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one suspensory agent. and/or at least one anti-caking agent chosen from organic and mineral lipophilic suspensory and/or anti-caking agents, waxes solid at room temperature, butters or a mixture of these.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least 0.1%, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one conditioning agent. filler chosen from mineral or organic filler agents.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a molded solid.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention has a compressive strength greater than 0.5 kPa, preferably greater than 1.0 kPa, measured at 20°C between two plates and at a compression speed of 10mm /min, using a Multitest-i dynamometer from the company Mecmesin connected to a 5kN sensor.

The invention also relates to a method for caring for and semi-permanently coloring keratin fibers, comprising the following steps:

- apply the composition according to the invention through said wet or humid keratin fibers in order to transfer an effective quantity of said composition onto said keratin fibers;

- massage said keratin fibers to allow homogeneous distribution of the composition and uniform coloring of said keratin fibers;

- leave said composition on said keratin fibers for a period ranging from 1 to 40 min;

- rinse said keratin fibers.

DEFINITIONS

In the present invention, the terms below are defined as follows:

For the purposes of the invention, the term “anhydrous” relates to a composition whose water content is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3%. Particularly, the water content is between 0% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term “comprising” and its variations must be understood according to the present invention as not excluding the presence of other steps and/or components. In some embodiments, the term comprise may be interpreted as "consisting essentially of".

For the purposes of the invention, the term “ready-to-use composition” relates to a composition which can be used by direct application to wet or damp keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, without having to be diluted in a solvent. such as water or lotion in order to temporarily reconstitute a liquid product. Advantageously, within the meaning of the invention, the water provided by the wet or humid keratin fibers leads to the formation of an in situ emulsion of the composition according to the invention allowing uniform deposition and more effective adhesion of the composition to the surface of keratin fibers.

The term “keratin fibers” concerns human keratin fibers, and more preferably hair.

The term “solid” within the meaning of the invention relates to a product in a compact form and having a stable three-dimensional structure, that is to say which does not flow under normal conditions of use and whose structure is maintains even without a receptacle surrounding the product. According to the invention, the solid composition has a compressive strength greater than 0.5 kPa, preferably greater than 1.0 kPa. The compressive strength was measured at 20°C on a solid composition according to the invention in the shape of a cylinder having a height of 18.12 mm and a diameter of 57.72 mm, between two plates and at a compression speed of 10mm/min, using a Multitest-i dynamometer from the mecmesin company connected to a 5kN sensor, the deformation being measured from the travel of the crosspiece.

The term "compressive strength" relates to the ability of a material or structure to withstand loads that tend to reduce its size through compression (crushing). The compressive strength of a material is the uniaxial compressive force reached at complete rupture of the material.

Those skilled in the art will understand that the classes of ingredients given below do not constitute a limitation of the particular compounds mentioned in the different classes. Thus, the compounds mentioned in the different classes of ingredients can in certain cases fall into more than one classification. However, if in a composition according to the invention a compound belonging to more than one class of ingredient is present, this compound will only be used for a single class of ingredient.

The embodiments described below may include or be combined with elements, features, or components of other embodiments, even if not expressly shown in combination.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition, for the care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, comprising at least one direct coloring agent; at least one conditioning agent; and at least one fatty substance.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous, that is to say that the composition according to the invention comprises a water content of less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3 %, Particularly, the water content is between 0% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is ready for use, that is to say it can be used by direct application to wet or damp keratin fibers, without having to be diluted in a solvent such as water or lotion to temporarily reconstitute a liquid product.

Direct coloring agent

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one direct coloring agent.

The term “direct coloring agent” relates to ionic or non-ionic compounds. In particular, they can be anionic (so-called basic dyes), cationic (so-called acid dyes) or even non-ionic (nitrated or azo dyes). Direct coloring agents have a strong affinity for keratin fibers and due to their low molecular mass can penetrate inside the cuticle and diffuse into the cortex.

According to one embodiment, the direct coloring agent(s) which can be used according to the present invention are chosen from non-ionic dyes such as nitrate dyes, azo dyes and anthraquinones; cationic dyes such as basic dyes; anionic dyes such as acid dyes; or a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of non-ionic dyes that can be used according to the invention include:

- nitrate dyes such as for example 1,4-bis-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-nitrobenzene, 1-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-nitro-4-[di-(2-hydroxyethyl) )amino]benzene (HC Blue No. 2), 1-amino-3-methyl-4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet No. 1), 4-[ethyl hydrochloride -(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-1-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue No. 12), 1-[(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)amino]-4-[methyl- (2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue No. 10), 1-[(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)amino]-4-[ethyl-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2- hydrochloride nitrobenzene (HC Blue No. 9), 1-(3-hydroxypropylamino)-4-[di-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-nitrobenzene (HC Violet No. 2), 1-amino-4-[ (2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-nitrobenzene (HC Red No. 7), 2-amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene (CI76070), 4-amino-2- nitrodiphenylamine (HC Red No. 1), 1-amino-4-[di-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Red No. 13), 1-amino-5-chloro-4 -[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-1-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-nitrobenzene (HC Red No. 3), 4-amino-2-nitro- 1-(prop-2-en-1-yl)amino)benzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitrophenol, 4-[(2-nitrophenyl )amino]phenol (HC Orange No. 1), 1-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-2-nitrobenzene (HC Orange No. 2), 4-(2,3 -dihydroxypropoxy)-1-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-nitrobenzene (HC Orange No. 3), 1-amino-5-chloro-4-[(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)amino]-2- nitrobenzene (HC Red No. 10), 5-chloro-1,4-[di-(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)amino]-2-nitrobenzene (HC Red No. 11), 2-[(2-hydroxyethyl )amino]-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid, 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol , 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-[(3-hydroxypropyl)amino]-3-nitrophenol, 2,5-diamino-6-nitropyridine, 3-amino-6-(methylamino )-2-nitropyridine, 1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-6-nitroquinoxaline, 7-amino-3,4-dihydro-6-nitro-2H-1,4-benzoxazine (HC Red No.14) , 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene (CI76020), 1-amino-2-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 5), 1-(2-hydroxyethoxy) -2-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 4), 1-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 2), 2-[ (2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-1-methoxy-5-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2-methyl-6-nitrobenzene, 1-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-3-methylamino-4 -nitrobenzene, 2,3-(dihydroxy-propoxy)-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-5-nitrophenol (HC Yellow No. 11), 3- hydrochloride [(2-aminoethyl)amino]-1-methoxy-4-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 9), 1-[(2-ureidoethyl)amino]-4-nitrobenzene, 4-[(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) )amino]-3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow No. 6), 1-chloro-2,4-bis-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No.10), 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-chloro-4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 12), 4- [(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow No. 13), 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitrobenzonitrile (HC Yellow No. 14), 4- [(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitrobenzamide (HC Yellow No. 15), and 2,4-dinitro-1-hydroxynaphthalene.

- azo dyes such as for example 1-[di-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-methyl-4-[(4-nitrophenyl)azo]benzene (CII 1210, Disperse Red No. 17), 1- [di-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-[(4-nitrophenyl)azo]benzene (Disperse Black No. 9), 4-[(4-aminophenyl)azo]-1-[di-(2- hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-methylbenzene (HC Yellow No. 7), 2,6-diamino-3-[(pyridin-3-yl)azo]-pyridine or 2-((4-(ethyl-(2 -hydroxyethyl)amino)-2-methylphenyl)azo)-5-nitro-1,3-thiazole (CIl 11935; Disperse Blue No. 106).

- anthraquinones such as for example 1,4-di-[(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)amino]-9,10-anthraquinone, 1,4-di-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-9,10- anthraquinone (CI61545, Disperse Blue 23), 1-amino-4-hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone (CI60710, Disperse Red 15), 1-hydroxy-4-[(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl)amino] -9,10-anthraquinone, 7-beta-D-glucopyranosyl-9,10-dihydro-1-methyl-9,10-dioxo-3,5,6,8-tetrahydroxy-2-anthracenecarboxylic acid (CI75470, Natural Red 4), 1-[(3-aminopropyl)amino]-9,10-anthraquinone (HC Red No. 8), 1,4-diamino-9,10-anthraquinone (CI61100, Disperse Violet No. 1) , 1-amino-4-(methylamino)-9,10-anthraquinone (CI61105, Disperse Violet No. 4, Solvent Violet No. 12).

Other examples of non-ionic dyes include N-(6-((3-chloro-4-(methylamino)phenyl)imino)-4-methyl-3-oxo-1,4-cyclohexadien-1-yl) urea (HC Red No. 9), 2-((4-(di-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino)phenyl)amino)-5-((2-hydroxyethyl)amino)-2,5-cyclohexadien-1, 4-dione (HC Green No. 1), 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (CI75480, Natural Orange No. 6), 1,2-dihydro-2-(1,3-dihydro-3-oxo -2H-indol-2-ylidene)-3H-indol-3-one (CI73000) or 1,3-bis-(dicyanomethylidene)indane.

Non-limiting examples of cationic dyes which can be used according to the invention include di-[4-(diethylamino)phenyl][4-(ethylamino)naphthyl]carbenium chloride (CI42595; Basic Blue No. 7), chloride of di-[4-(dimethylamino)phenyl][4-(phenylamino)naphthyl]carbenium (CI44045; Basic Blue No. 26), Basic Blue No. 77, 8-amino-2-bromo-5-hydroxy- chloride 4-imino-6-[(3-(trimethylammonio)-phenyl)amino]-1(4H)-naphthalenone (CI56059; Basic Blue No. 99), tri-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)carbenium chloride (CI42520; Basic Violet No. 2), di-(4-aminophenyl)(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)carbenium chloride (CI42510; Basic Violet No. 14), 1-[(4-aminophenyl) chloride )azo]-7-(trimethylammonio)-2-naphthol chloride (CI12250; Basic Brown No. 16), 3-[(4-amino-2,5-dimethoxyphenyl)azo]-N,N,N- chloride trimethylbenzolaminium (CIl 12605, Basic Orange No. 69), 1-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)azo]-7-(trimethylammonio)-2-naphthol (Basic Brown No. 17) chloride, 2-((4-aminophenyl)azo)-1,3-dimethyl-1H-imidazol-3-ium (Basic Orange No. 31), 3,7-diamino-2,8-dimethyl-5-phenylphenazinium chloride (CI50240; Basic Red No. 2), 1,4-dimethyl-5-[(4-(dimethylamino)phenyl)azo]-1,2,4-triazolium chloride (CI11055; Basic Red No. 22), 1,3-dimethyl-2-((4-dimethylamino)phenyl)azo-1H-imidazol-3-ium (Basic Red No. 51), 2-hydroxy-1-[(2-methoxyphenyl)azo] chloride -7-(trimethylammonio)naphthalene (CI12245; Basic Red No. 76), 3-methyl-1-phenyl-4-[(3-(trimethylammonio)phenyl)azo]pyrazol-5-one chloride (CI12719; Basic Yellow No. 57), 1-methyl-4-((methylphenyl-hydrazono)methyl)pyridinium methyl sulfate chloride (Basic Yellow No. 87), aniline, 4-[(2,6-Dichlorophenyl)( 4-Imino-3,5-Dimethyl-2,5-Cyclohexadien-1-ylidene)Methyl]-2,6-Dimethyl-Phosphate) (HC Blue No. 15), 1-(2-morpholiniumpropylamino)-4- hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone methyl sulfate, or 1-[(3-(dimethylpropylaminium)propyl)amino]-4-(methylamino)-9,10-anthraquinone chloride.

Non-limiting examples of anionic dyes which can be used according to the invention include the disodium salt of α-[(N-ethyl-sulfo-3-benzylamino)-4-phenyl]-α-(N-ethyl-sulfo) acid. -3-benzylamino-4)-cyclohexadiene-2,5-ylidene) toluenesulfonic acid-2 (ACID BLUE 9), disodium 5,5'-indigosulfonate (ACID BLUE 74), Coomassie blue (ACID BLUE 90), disodium [[4-[bis[4-[(sulfonatophenyl)amino]phenyl]methylene]cyclohexa-2,5-diene-1-ylidene]amino]benzenesulfonate (ACID BLUE 93), 1-Amino-4- sodium anilino-9,10-dioxo-9,10-dihydro-2-anthracenesulfonate (ACID BLUE 25), the sodium salt of 2-[(9,10-Dihydro-4-hydroxy-9,10-) Dioxo-1-anthracenyl)amino]-5-methylbenzenesulfonic acid (Ext. Violet 2), sodium salt of p-((2-Hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo)benzenesulfonic acid (Orange 4), naphthol green (ACID GREEN 1), the disodium salt of 2,2'-(1,4-Anthraquinonylenediimino)bis(5-methylbenzenesulfonic acid) (ACID GREEN 25), the sodium salt of [dimethylamino-4-α] acid -(dimethylimino-4-cyclohexadiene-2,5-ylidene)-benzyl]-5-hydroxy-6-sulfo-7-naphthalene sulfonic acid-2 (ACID GREEN 50), disodium 2-(1,3-dioxo-2 ,3-dihydro-1H-inden-2-yl)quinoline-6,8-disulfonate (ACID YELLOW 3), disodium 2,5-dichloro-4-[3-methyl-5-oxo-4-(4- sulfonatophenyl)diazenyl-4H-pyrazol-1-yl]benzenesulfonate (ACID YELLOW 17), the mono, di or tri sodium salt of 2-(2-quinoleyl)-1,3-indanedione mono, di, trisulfonic acid ( ACID YELLOW 10), sodium (4E)-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfonatophenyl)-4-[(4-sulfonatophenyl)hydrazono]-3-pyrazolecarboxylate (ACID YELLOW 23), (8Z)-7 -oxo-8-(phenylhydrazinylidene)naphthalene-1,3-disulfonate (ACID ORANGE 10), sodium 4-{(E)-[4-(dimethylamino)phenyl]diazenyl}benzenesulfonate (ACID ORANGE 52), disodium 4-hydroxy-3-[(4-sulfonatonaphthyl)azo]naphthalenesulfonate (ACID RED 14), trisodium 2-hydroxy-1-(4-sulfonate-1-naphthylazo)-6,8-naphthalene disulfonate (ACID RED 18), (4E)-3-oxo-4-[(4- sulfonato-1-naphthyl)hydrazono]naphthalene- 2,7-disulfonate trisodium (ACID RED 27) or 5-amino-4-hydroxy- 3-phenylazo-2,7-naphthalenesulfonate disodium (ACID RED 33).

According to the invention, the direct coloring agent can be used alone or in combination with other direct coloring agents, depending on the target color of the hair to which the composition is applied.

In a preferred embodiment, the direct coloring agent(s) are chosen from non-ionic dyes, cationic dyes, or a mixture thereof. In a more preferred embodiment, the direct coloring agent(s) are chosen from cationic dyes.

Advantageously, the combination of nonionic dyes and cationic dyes, preferably the combination of cationic dyes such as basic dyes, makes it possible to obtain uniform coloring of the hair, ensuring color reproducibility and resistance to washing in a uniform manner. .

According to one embodiment, the direct coloring agent(s) are present in an amount ranging from 0.005% to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 15.0%. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10.0%. In a more preferred embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5.0%.

Conditioning agent

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one conditioning agent.

The term “conditioning agent” concerns any compound capable of providing softening, moisturizing, protective or regenerating properties of keratin fibers. In particular, these are compounds capable of conditioning and coating keratin fibers to keep them hydrated and soft. They also act as a detangler by lubricating the follicles. They also help prevent static electricity, which can make hair frizzy.

According to one embodiment, the conditioning agent(s) are of different classes and can be chosen from cationic surfactants; cationic polymers; cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates; silicones; non-silicone fatty substances; moisturizing or humectant agents, in particular glycols and polyols which are in particular liquid; or a mixture of these.

In one embodiment, the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines or the salts thereof; quaternary ammonium salts having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl chain; or a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of quaternary ammonium salts having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl chain which can be used according to the invention include distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, soytrimonium chloride, octacosatrimonium chloride, ceteartrimonium chloride , tallowtrimonium chloride, dodecylhexadecyltrimonium chloride, octyldodecyltrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, aurtrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, dodecylbenzyltrimonium chloride, di-C ₁₂ chloride - C ₁₅ alkyl dimonium, C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ dialkyldimonium chloride, di-C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alkyl dimonium chloride, dicapryl/dicaprylyl dimonium chloride, didecyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, ditallowdimonium chloride , dicocodimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, ceteardimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, olealkonium chloride, hydroxyethyl oleyl dimonium chloride, cinnamidopropyltrimonium chloride, lactamidopropyl trimonium chloride, behenoyl chloride pg-trimonium, stearoxypropyltrimonium chloride, lauroyl pg-trimonium chloride, palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium chloride, panthenyl hydroxypropyl steardimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl bis-hydroxyethyldimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl chloride bisstearyldimonium, hydroxycetyl hydroxyethyl dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl behenamidopropyl dimonium chloride, behenamidopropyl pg-dimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl pg-dimonium chloride, oleamidopropyl pg-dimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, or a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines which can be used according to the invention include stearyloxypropyl amine, palmityloxypropyl amine, stearyloxypropyldimethyl amine, stearyloxypropyldiethyl amine, stearyloxyethyldimethyl amine, stearyloxyethyl amine, myristyloxypropyl amine , myristyloxypropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl amine, palmitamidopropylmethyl amine, palmitamidopropyldiethyl amine, palmitamidopropyldibutyl amine, palmitamidopropylbutyl amine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamido propyl hydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl amine, lauramidopropyl methylamine, lauramidopropyl diethylamine, lauramidopropyl dibutylamine, lauramidopropyl buylamine, lauramidopropyl dipropylamine, lauramidopropyl propylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearamidopropyl amine, st earamidopropyl dimethylamine , stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyldibutylamine, stearamidopropyl butylamine, stearamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl amine, behenamidopropyl methylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine , behenamidopropyl diethylamine , behenamidopropyl dibutylamine, behenamidopropyl butylamine, behenamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl methylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl ethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl butylamine, dipalmitami dopropyl propylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauramidopropyl amine, dilauramidopropyl methylamine, dilauramidopropyl buylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearamidopropyl amine, distearamidopropyl methylamine, dibehenamidopropyl propylamine, dibehenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl amine , palmitoylpropyl methylamine, palmitoylpropyl diethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dibutylamine, palmitoylpropyl buylamine, palmitoylpropyl dipropylamine, palmitoylpropyl propylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, myristoyl propyl amine, myristoylpropyl methylamine, myristoylpropyl diethylamine, myristoylpropyl dibutylamine, myristoylpropyl buylamine, myristoylpropyl dipropylamine, myristoylpropyl propylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearoylpropyl amine, stearoylpropyl methylamine, stearoylpropyl diethylamine, stearoylpropyl dibutylamine, stearoylpropyl butylamine , stearoylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl amine, behenylpropyl methylamine, behenylpropyl diethylamine, behenylpropyl dibutylamine, behenylpropyl butylamine, behenylpropyl dipropylamine, d ilauroylpropyl methylamine , dilauroylpropyl buylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearylpropyl amine, distearylpropyl methylamine, dibehenylpropyl propylamine, dibehenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, or a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention include hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride from starch, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride from guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride from carob, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride from caesalpinia spinosa, chloride hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride of cassia, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride of dextran, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl chloride of oxidized starch pg-trimonium, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride of hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate, chloride of ginseng hydroxypropyltrimonium, lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer, propyltrimoniumchloride acrylamide/dimethylacrylamide copolymer, dimethylacrylamide chloride/ethyltrimonium methacrylate copolymer, polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylate copolymer, pg-hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride, pg-hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium chloride, soyamidopropalkonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, polyquaterniums such as polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-104, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-32, polyquaternium-33, polyquaternium-35, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-68, polyquaternium-69, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-73, polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium-75, polyquaternium-76, polyquaternium-78, polyquaternium-80, or a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention include proteins and protein hydrolysates derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin; plants, for example wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soybeans, moringa or almonds; of marine life forms, for example collagen from fish or algae, or protein hydrolysates obtained by biotechnology. non-limiting examples of cationic protein hydrolysates include cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl/myristyl ether HCl, hydroxypropyltrimonium gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed casein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed collagen, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed keratin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed rice bran protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein/siloxysilicate, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein/siloxysilicate , laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, steartrimonium hydroxyethyl hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein; or a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of silicones which can be used according to the invention include polyorganosiloxanes, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, polyestersiloxanes, or a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples include dimethicone, cyclomethicone (cyclopentasiloxane), amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl siloxy silicate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, or a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of non-silicone fatty substances which can be used according to the invention include oils; mineral oils; fatty alcohols; fatty acids; derivatives of fatty alcohols such as alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols or esters of fatty alcohols; fatty acid derivatives such as alkoxylated fatty acids or polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids or propylene glycol and fatty acid esters, butylene glycol and fatty acid esters, neopentyl glycol esters and fatty acids, polyglycerol/glycerol and fatty acid esters, glycol diesters, ethylene glycol and fatty acid diesters, fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, fatty acid esters short-chain alcohols and fatty acids; fatty alcohol esters; hydroxy fatty acids, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, or a mixture thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the conditioning agent(s) are chosen from cationic surfactants, more preferably from behentrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, or a mixture of these.

According to one embodiment, the conditioning agent(s) are present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 80.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 1.0% to 75.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 5.0% to 70.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 10.0% to 65.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 15.0% to 60.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 20.0% to 55.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 20.0% to 50.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 20.0% to 45.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 20.0% to 40.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 20.0% to 35.0%. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount ranging from 20.0% to 30.0%.

Fat body

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance.

Advantageously, the presence of at least one fatty substance in an amount greater than 10%, preferably greater than 50%, in the compositions according to the invention contributes to providing softening, moisturizing, protective or regenerating properties of the keratin fibers.

According to one embodiment, the fatty substance(s) which can be used according to the present invention are chosen from alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, synthetic triglycerides, oils such as non-silicone mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, non-silicone waxes, silicones, pasty fatty substances or butters or a mixture of these.

In one embodiment, the fatty alcohols, fatty acids and fatty acid esters have at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, for example, by at least one hydroxyl group (for example 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can contain one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As non-limiting examples, the fatty alcohols may be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetyl stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol. , oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol.

Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, cocoic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, capric acid, arachidonic acids.

Non-limiting examples of fatty acid esters which can be used according to the invention include esters of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched; of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbons of the esters being, for example, greater than or equal to 10; or mono-, di-, and triglycerides.

Non-limiting examples of monoesters include dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isonate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, mirystyle myristate , stearyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Other non-limiting examples of esters include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates and glyceryl monostearate.

We can also cite as fatty esters, esters of sugars and fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. The term "sugar" relates to hydrocarbon compounds containing oxygen which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and having at least 4 carbon atoms. Sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. As suitable sugars, mention may be made, by way of non-limiting examples, of sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, cocoic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, capric acid, arachidonic acids, or mixtures thereof such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

In one embodiment, the alkanes have 6 to 30 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. As examples, the alkanes can be chosen from hexane, dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.

Non-limiting examples of non-silicone oils that can be used according to the invention include hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane; hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil arara, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, butter oil shea, linear, symmetrical or non-symmetrical dialkyl carbonates; hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils; as fluorinated oils, mention may be made, by way of non-limiting examples, of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane; bromoperfluorooctyl; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine.

Non-limiting examples of non-silicone waxes which can be used according to the invention include mineral waxes such as paraffin, ceresin, microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax and alfa wax, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as essential flower wax blackcurrant; animal waxes such as beeswaxes, modified beeswaxes (cerabellina) or Chinese insect waxes; other waxes or waxy raw materials which can be used according to the present invention are, for example, marine waxes, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

In one embodiment, the silicones are chosen from volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, modified or not by organic groups.

In one embodiment, the silicones are in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Non-limiting examples of silicones which can be used according to the invention include polyorganosiloxanes, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, polyestersiloxanes and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include dimethicone, cyclomethicone (cyclopentasiloxane), amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl siloxy silicate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, or a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of pasty fatty substances or butters which can be used according to the invention include lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate , oxypropylenated lanolins; polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds; vinyl polymers such as olefin homopolymers or olefin copolymers; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more diols; esters and polyesters; C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ triglycerides; butters such as shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Bornean butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, butter Illipé, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca Iongifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter ( Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter, butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba esters (mixture of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil)(INCI name: Jojoba esters) and shea butter ethyl esters (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters).

In a preferred embodiment, the fatty substance or the mixture of fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, butters, vegetable waxes, fatty acid esters, or a mixture of these.

In one embodiment, the fatty substance or the mixture of fatty substances is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 15% to 95%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 15% to 95%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 20% to 95%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 25% to 95%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 30% to 95%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 35% to 95%. In one embodiment, in a quantity ranging from 40% to 95%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 45% to 95%. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount ranging from 50% to 95%.

Additional compounds

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional compound different from the ingredients as described above.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant, at least one suspensory and/or anti-caking agent, at least one bulking agent, at least one preservative, or a mixture of these. -this.

Surfactant

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one surfactant chosen from amphoteric, anionic, non-ionic surfactants, or a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants which can be used according to the invention include alkyl sulfates; alkyl ether sulfates; alkylamido ether sulfates; alkylaryl polyether sulfates; monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates; alkylamidesulfonates; alkylarylsulfonates; α-olefinsulfonates; paraffinsulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates; alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; alkylamide sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfoacetates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl glutamates; alkyl ether carboxylates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; acyl isethionates and N-acyl taurate; monoalkyl esters of polyglycoside and polycarboxylic acids; acyl lactylates; salts of D-galactosideuronic acids; salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids; salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; the salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group; lipo-amino acids such as sodium lauroyl oat amino acids and sodium cocoyl apple amino acids; or a mixture of these.

In one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is a salt of at least one anionic surfactant as described above. In one embodiment, the salt is chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium salt or potassium salt; ammonium salts; amine salts such as amino alcohol salts; or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.

Non-limiting examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants which can be used according to the invention include derivatives of optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines comprising at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which at least one aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made, for example, of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines such as coco-betaine, sulphobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkylamido (C ₁ -C ₆ ) betaines such as cocoamidopropyl betaine, or (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkylamido (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl sulfobetaines.

Mention may also be made of optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants which can be used according to the invention include:

- Alkoxylated derivatives of fatty alcohols, alkylphenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides. In one embodiment, the alkoxy groups are chosen from the group consisting of C ₂ -C ₆ oxides and their mixtures such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and their mixtures. The alkyl chain can be linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated;

- alkylpolyglucosides, which are the condensation products of long-chain alcohols, for example C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers. These compounds can be represented by the formula (S) _n --O--R in which S is a sugar moiety; n is an integer from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group. Non-limiting examples of long chain alcohols include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol;

- alkanolamides resulting from the acylation of an amino alcohol by a fatty acid. Non-limiting examples of amino alcohol include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, isopropanolamine or diethylene glycolamine (2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol). Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid and fatty acids derived from vegetable oils such as walnut oil. coconut, soybean oil, canola oil, wheat germ oil, peanut oil, corn oil, olive oil;

- esters of sugars and mono- or polyacids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of mono- or polyacids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms include oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, capric acid, arachidonic acid, or mixtures thereof such as mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate;

- glyceryl esters such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoistearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate and their mixtures; polyglyceryl esters such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate and mixtures thereof;

- sorbitan mono-, di-, tri-, esters such as sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan stearates, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan Trèsstearate, sorbitan dipalmitates and sorbitan isostearate ;

- alkoxylated derivatives of glyceryl esters, sorbitan esters and alkylpolyglycosides, in which the alkoxy groups are chosen from the group consisting of C ₂ -C ₆ oxides and their mixtures, the ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives being favorites;

- tri-block copolymers of formula HO(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b (C ₂ H ₄ O) _a H, in which “a” represents a hydrophilic unit of polyethylene oxide ( PEO) and “b” a hydrophobic polypropylene oxide (PPO) unit.

The term "sugar" relates to hydrocarbon compounds containing oxygen which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and having at least 4 carbon atoms. Sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. As suitable sugars, mention may be made, by way of non-limiting examples, of sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

In a preferred embodiment, when the surfactant(s) are present, they are chosen from amphoteric surfactants, preferably from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines such as coco-betaine, sulphobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkylamido (C ₁ -C ₆ ) betaines such as cocoamidopropyl betaine, or (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkylamido (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl sulphobetaines, more preferably among coco-betaine and cocoamidopropyl betaine .

In one embodiment, when the surfactant(s) are present, they are present in an amount of at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 30%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10%. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5%.

Suspending agent and/or anti-caking agent

According to one embodiment, when the composition according to the invention comprises ingredients in the form of powder which are difficult to dissolve in the fatty phase, then the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one suspensory agent and/or at least one agent. anti-caking agent.

Indeed, the presence of ingredients in powder form that is poorly soluble in the fatty phase can lead to sedimentation or agglomeration of solid particles over time, which can lead to a composition having a non-homogeneous appearance, and even compromise an application. homogeneous composition leading to non-uniform coloring of the keratin fibers.

In one embodiment, the suspensory and/or anti-caking agent(s) which can be used according to the present invention are chosen from organic and mineral lipophilic suspensory and/or anti-caking agents, waxes which are solid at room temperature, butters or a mixture of these.

Advantageously, the presence of at least one suspensory agent and/or at least one anti-caking agent in the composition according to the invention makes it possible to overcome the disadvantages mentioned above by limiting the sedimentation and/or agglomeration of solid particles. over time.

Non-limiting examples of organic lipophilic suspensory and/or anti-caking agents that can be used according to the present invention include organopolysiloxanes; polystyrene/polyalkylene type copolymers such as polystyrene/polyisoprene, polystyrene/polybutadiene, polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene), polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene); copolymers of polyethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide; polyamide type copolymers such as tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides or polyamide polyethers; polyacrylates resulting from the polymerization of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate(s); polysaccharide and fatty acid esters such as dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitates, dextrin myristates, dextrin palmitates/ethylhexanoates and mixtures thereof, mono-, di- or triesters of glycerol and fatty acid or inulin and fatty acid esters; polyethers, polyesters, polyurethanes, and modified polyurethanes, polyanhydrides, polycarbonates, polyureas, polyethylene, polyethylene oxide, polypropylene oxide polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycols, polyacetals, polyimides , polyolefins, polysulfides, polydimethylsiloxanes; fatty acids and their salts such as aluminum salts of fatty acids, calcium salts of fatty acids, potassium salts of fatty acids or sodium salts of fatty acids; or a mixture of these.

Examples of fatty acids include stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid or acid caprylic.

Non-limiting examples of mineral lipophilic suspensory and/or anti-caking agents which can be used according to the present invention include clays such as hectorites modified with a C ₁₀ -C _{22 ammonium chloride, hectorite modified with C 10 -C 22} ammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium, benzalkonium and quaternium-18 bentonite, steralkonium bentonite, steralkonium hectorite; hydrophilic silicas; silicas whose silanol groups are substituted by hydrophobic groups such as dimethylsiloxyl, trimethylsiloxyl or polydimethyisiloxane groups; talc; diatomaceous earth; or a mixture of these.

Other non-limiting examples of mineral suspensory and/or anti-caking agents that can be used according to the present invention include metal carbonates such as calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate; metal silicates such as sodium silicate, calcium silicate or magnesium trisilicate; metal stearates such as calcium stearate or magnesium stearate; metal phosphates such as calcium phosphate (dibasic or tribasic), sodium aluminum phosphate (acidic or basic), sodium phosphate (monobasic, dibasic or tribasic); metallic ferrocyanides such as sodium ferrocyanide, potassium ferrocyanide, calcium ferrocyanide; metal oxides and metal hydroxides such as iron oxide or aluminum oxide; silicon dioxide.

Non-limiting examples of waxes that are solid at room temperature and can be used according to the present invention include waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin or a mixture thereof. We can in particular cite hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax , montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as their esters.

Non-limiting examples of butters which can be used according to the present invention include shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) ( Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca Iongifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), butter of mango (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea) , coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter, butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba esters (mixture of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil)(INCI name: Jojoba esters) and ethyl esters of butter shea butter (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters).

In a preferred embodiment, when present, the suspensory and/or anti-caking agent(s) are chosen from organic lipophilic suspensory and/or anti-caking agents, preferably from polysaccharide and fatty acid esters such as esters dextrin and fatty acid such as dextrin palmitate.

In one embodiment, when the suspensory and/or anti-caking agent(s) are present, they are present in an amount of at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 15.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 1.0% to 10.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 1.5% to 10.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 2.0% to 10.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 2.5% to 10.0%. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount ranging from 3.0% to 7.0%.

Bulking Agent

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one bulking agent.

The term “bulking agent” relates to a substantially uncolored compound, solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and insoluble in the various ingredients of the composition, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature above room temperature. Particularly, the fillers can be particles of any shape, in particular platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever their crystallographic shape (for example amorphous, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic) or particle size.

In one embodiment, the filler(s) that can be used according to the present invention are chosen from mineral or organic fillers.

Non-limiting examples of mineral fillers which can be used according to the invention include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, hollow silica microspheres, glass microcapsules, titanium, iron and iron oxides. zinc. The mineral filler can optionally be coated and in particular consist of a mica substrate coated with alumina, titanium dioxide, silica, aluminum oxide and/or barium sulfate, such as TiO ₂ /silica complex, the mica/TiO ₂ complex, the silica/TiO ₂ complex, or a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of organic fillers that can be used according to the invention include polyamide powders such as Nylon ®; poly-β-alamine powders; polyethylene powders; polytetrafluoroethylene powders; lauroyl-lysine; hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile like Expancel ®; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc, magnesium or lithium laurate , zinc, magnesium or lithium myristate; acrylic acid copolymers such as Polytrap ®; silicone resin microbeads, for example Topspearl; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice, potato and tapioca starches; starch degradation products such as amylose, amylopectin, dextrins or maltodextrins; modified starches such as hydroxypropyl starch phosphate; or a mixture of these.

In a preferred embodiment, when the filler(s) are present, they are chosen from organic fillers, preferably from powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice starches, of potato and tapioca, more preferably among corn starch.

In one embodiment, when the bulking agent(s) are present, they are present in an amount of at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 1.0% to 25.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 1.5% to 20.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 2.0% to 15.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 2.5% to 15.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 3.0% to 15.0%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 3.5% to 10.0%. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount ranging from 3.5% to 5.0%.

Preservative

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may also comprise a preservative agent.

The term “preservative agent” concerns any substance capable of opposing alterations of physical origin such as photodegradation or otherwise called UV filters; chemical such as transformation by redox reaction with air, a component or a container or otherwise called an antioxidant agent; or microbiological effects of a product such as spoilage by bacteria and fungi or otherwise called antimicrobial agents. For the purposes of the invention, the preservative agent can be chosen from the preservative agents listed in Annexes V and VI of EU Regulation 1223/2009 relating to cosmetic products and/or any other preservative agents known to those skilled in the art such than conservation boosters.

In one embodiment, the preservative agent(s) that can be used according to the present invention are chosen from organic acids or one of their salts; glycol ethers; halogenated preservatives; aldehydes; alcohols; cationic agents; essential oils ; natural or synthetic antioxidants; organic or inorganic UV filters; or a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of organic acids which can be used according to the invention include benzoic acid, propionic acid, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, p -hydroxybenzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid, formic acid, undecylenic acid, levulinic acid or a mixture thereof. Mention may also be made of the salts and esters of at least one organic acid as described above. In one embodiment, the salt is chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium salt or potassium salt; ammonium salts; amine salts such as amino alcohol salts; halide salts such as chloride or bromide; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts and calcium salts; sulfate salts or acetate salts.

Non-limiting examples of glycol ethers which may be used according to the invention include phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, 2-butoxyethanol, ethoxydiglycol, or a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of halogenated preservatives which can be used according to the invention include triclosan, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, chlorphenesin, chloroxylenol, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-Bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane , 2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, dichlorobenzyl alcohol, triclocarban, chlorocresol, chlorophene, bromochlorophene, chloroacetamide, or a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of aldehydes or aldehyde liberators which can be used according to the invention include formaldehyde, glutaraldehyde, benzylhemiformal, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, or a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of alcohols which can be used according to the invention include ethanol, benzyl alcohol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, phenylpropanol or a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of cationic agents which can be used according to the invention include salts of primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts such as quaternium-15, alkyl bromides or chlorides. (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) trimethyl ammonium such as behentrimonium chloride or bromide, cetrimonium chloride or bromide, aurtrimonium chloride or bromide, steartrimonium chloride or bromide; benzalkonium chloride, bromide or saccharinate; benzethonium chloride; or a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of natural or synthetic antioxidants which can be used according to the invention include sulphites such as sulfur dioxide, sodium sulphite, sodium bisulphite, sodium metabisulphite, potassium metabisulphite, sodium sulphite potassium, potassium bisulfite, calcium sulfite, calium bisulfite; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives, sodium ascorbate, calcium ascorbate, diacetyl 5-6-1-ascorbic acid, palmityl 6-1-ascorbic acid; citric acid, sodium citrate, potassium and calcium citrate; tartaric acid, sodium tartrate, potassium tartrate; butylated hydroxyanisole, butylated hydroxytoluol; octyl gallate, dodecyl gallate; sodium lactate, potassium lactate, calcium lactate; acetophenone derivatives such as hydroxyacetophenone and its mixture with phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or 1,2-octanediol; lecithins; natural tocopherols, α-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol, all of the tocopherols constituting vitamin E; or a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of organic or inorganic UV filters which can be used according to the invention include benzophenones and its derivatives such as benzophenone 3, benzophenone 4, benzophenone 5 or diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate; camphor derivatives such as 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid or terephthalydene dicamphor sulfonic acid; salicylic acid derivatives such as homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate or octyl salicylate; benzimidazoles such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid or disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate; dibenzoyl methane such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; benzotriazole derivatives such as drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, benzotriazole dodecyl p-cresol or sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfate; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA; cinnamates 3 such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate or isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; triazine derivatives such as ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone or methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol; malonate such as polysilicone-15; metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide; magnesium silicate; kaolin; or a mixture of these.

In one embodiment, when the preservative agent(s) are present, they are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 25%. In one embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10%.

Additive s

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one humectant agent, at least one coloring agent chosen from water-soluble or fat-soluble organic dyes, natural dyes of plant or mineral origin, organic pigments or minerals, mother-of-pearl; stabilizers; chelators, pH adjusting agents; perfumes ; sequestering agents; plasticizing agents; solubilizing agents; or at least one ingredient having keratin fiber care properties chosen from cosmetic active ingredients such as for example, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, agents to prevent hair loss and/or to promote hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, color protection agents, or a mixture thereof.

Those skilled in the art will know how to adapt the quantity of the cosmetic ingredient(s) so as not to alter the organosensory qualities and properties of the composition according to the present invention.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

- from 0.005% to 15% of at least one direct coloring agent;

- from 0.5% to 90% of at least one conditioning agent;

- from 10% to 99% of at least one fatty substance;

- from 0.0% to 30% of at least one surfactant chosen from amphoteric, non-ionic, anionic surfactants, or a mixture of these;

- from 0.0% to 15% of at least one suspensory agent and/or at least one anti-caking agent;

- from 0.0% to 45% of at least one bulking agent;

- from 0.0 to 5% of at least one additive; And

- a quantity of water less than 5%, preferably less than 3%.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

- from 0.005% to 15%, preferably from 0.1% to 10%, of at least one cationic coloring agent such as basic dyes;

- from 0.5% to 90%, preferably from 20% to 30% of at least one conditioning agent chosen from cationic surfactants;

- from 10% to 99%, preferably from 50% to 95%, of a mixture of fatty substances chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, butters, vegetable waxes and fatty acid esters;

- from 0.05% to 30%, preferably from 0.55% to 5% of at least one surfactant chosen from amphoteric surfactants;

- from 0.1% to 15%, preferably from 2.5% to 10% of at least one suspensory agent and/or at least one anti-caking agent chosen from polysaccharide and fatty acid esters such as dextrin and fatty acid ester;

- from 0.1% to 45%, preferably from 3.5% to 10% of at least one bulking agent chosen from powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat or rice starches, potato and tapioca,

- from 0.05 to 5% of at least one additive chosen from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, or a mixture of these; And

- a quantity of water less than 5%, preferably less than 3%.

Pharmaceutical form

The composition according to the invention is in the form of a solid molded product, that is to say obtained by a hot casting step in a mold, optionally the product can be demolded or remain in the mold which it contains. serves as conditioning.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a molded solid for multiple use.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a bar or a loaf, that is to say in the form of a product used directly by hand on the fibers wet or moist keratins.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a stick, that is to say in the form of a product which can be obtained by hot casting directly into the packaging article, the solid composition remaining integral with said packaging article. This type of format allows direct application of the solid composition to the keratin fibers, avoiding contact with the user's hands.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a compressive strength greater than 0.5 kPa, preferably greater than 1.0 kPa. In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a compressive strength of between 0.5 kPa and 10 kPa, preferably between 0.5 kPa and 5 kPa, more preferably between 1.0 kPa and 2, 5 kPa.

Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention has a hardness high enough to ensure sufficient stability to the solid and allow multiple use over time without compromising its integrity. Furthermore, due to its texture and its composition, the solid composition according to the invention makes it possible to ensure easy deposition on damp or wet keratin fibers, under light to moderate pressure and/or friction, between the hands of the user. the user or directly on the keratin fibers, in order to provide uniform semi-permanent coloring and care for the keratin fibers.

Use of the solid composition according to the invention

The invention also relates to the use of the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is ready for use, that is to say it can be used directly as a cosmetic composition, in particular, suitable for the care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

Particularly, the solid composition according to the invention can be used by direct application to damp or wet keratin fibers, without having to be diluted in a solvent such as water or a lotion in order to temporarily reconstitute a liquid product.

Advantageously, the water provided by the wet or humid keratin fibers leads to the formation of an in situ emulsion of the composition according to the invention allowing uniform deposition and more effective adhesion of the composition to the surface of the keratin fibers and a improved vectorization of direct coloring agents, active agents and conditioning agents on the surface of keratin fibers.

Method of care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers

The invention also relates to a method for caring for and semi-permanently coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps:

- apply the solid composition according to the invention through said damp or wet keratin fibers in order to transfer an effective quantity of said composition onto said keratin fibers;

- massage said keratin fibers to allow homogeneous distribution of the composition and uniform coloring of said keratin fibers;

- leave said composition to apply on said keratin fibers;

- rinse said keratin fibers with water.

In one embodiment, the solid composition according to the invention is wetted, rubbed between the hands of the user and applied to the keratin fibers.

In a preferred embodiment, the solid composition according to the invention is directly applied to the damp or wet keratin fibers by applying light to moderate pressure on the keratin fibers allowing the transfer of an effective quantity of said composition onto said keratin fibers.

In one embodiment, the solid composition according to the invention is left placed on the keratin fibers for a period ranging from 1 minute to 40 minutes, more preferably for a period ranging from 5 to 30 minutes.

In one embodiment, the method according to the invention further comprises a step of washing the keratin fibers with a shampoo, ideally before applying the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a method for caring for and coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps:

- wet the keratin fibers;

- apply the solid composition according to the invention through said keratin fibers in order to transfer an effective quantity of said composition onto said keratin fibers;

- massage said keratin fibers to allow homogeneous distribution of the composition and uniform coloring of said keratin fibers;

- leave said composition on said keratin fibers for a period ranging from 1 minute to 40 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 min;

- rinse said keratin fibers with water;

- dry said keratin fibers.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be better understood on reading the following examples which illustrate the invention in a non-limiting manner.

Example 1 : Preparation of the cosmetic composition according to the invention

The raw materials of phase A as described in table 1 below were melted in a mixer with stirring at a temperature between 50 and 90°C.

The raw materials from phase B as described in table 1 below were then added to the resulting mixture, followed by the raw materials from phase C.

Premix D, previously heated to a temperature between 40 and 50°C, was then added to the mixture previously obtained and the whole was poured at a temperature between 50 and 90°C into a mold. The mixture was then allowed to cool and solidify.

Example 2 : Solid and anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the invention

The cosmetic composition according to Example 2 is prepared according to Example 1 above using the ingredients described in Table 1 below. Table 1 presents an example of a cosmetic composition, solid, anhydrous and ready for use, for the care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers according to the invention.

INCI % w/w HAS Fat body butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter / glyceryl stearate / helianthus annuus seed cera / helianthus annuus seed oil / cocos nucifera (coconut) oil / avocado oil 50.00-70.00 HAS Direct dye basic brown 16 / basic orange 31 0.10-1.00 HAS Conditioning agent behentrimonium chloride / distearyldimonium chloride / behenamidopropyl dimethylamine 20.00-30.00 HAS Suspensory agent dextrin palmitate 3.00-7.00 B Amphoteric surfactant coco-betaine 0.50-1.50 VS Additives pH adjuster 0.50-1.00 D Bulking agent zea mays (corn)starch 3.50 – 5.00 D Additives preservative, perfume 1.00 – 5.00 Water < 3.00

The composition according to Example 2 has a compressive strength greater than 1.0 kPa, measured at 20°C between two plates and at a compression speed of 10mm/min, using a Multitest-i dynamometer. from the mecmesin company connected to a 5kN sensor, the deformation being measured from the travel of the crosspiece.

Satisfactory stability is observed for the composition according to Example 2, allowing multiple use over time without compromising its integrity.

The composition according to Example 2 allows easy application of the coloring to the hair, under light to moderate pressure. Uniform hair coloring is observed along the entire length, as well as good color reproducibility and resistance to washing evenly.

Claims (11)

Cosmetic composition, solid, anhydrous and ready to use, for the care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, comprising:
- from 0.005% to 15% of at least one direct coloring agent;
- from 0.5% to 80% of at least one conditioning agent; And
- from 10% to 99% of at least one fatty substance,
in which the water content is less than 5%, preferably less than 3%,
the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, in which the direct coloring agent is chosen from nonionic dyes such as nitrate dyes, azo dyes and anthraquinones; cationic dyes such as basic dyes; anionic dyes such as acid dyes; or a mixture of these. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, in which the conditioning agent is chosen from cationic surfactants; cationic polymers; cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates; silicones; non-silicone fatty substances; moisturizing or humectant agents, in particular glycols and polyols which are in particular liquid; or a mixture of these. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the conditioning agent is chosen from cationic surfactants such as salts of primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl chain; or a mixture of these. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the fatty substance is chosen from alkanes; fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, synthetic triglycerides, oils such as non-silicone mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, non-silicone waxes, silicones, pasty fatty substances or butters or a mixture of these. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, further comprising at least 0.05%, preferably from 0.05% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one surfactant. chosen from amphoteric, non-ionic, anionic surfactants, or a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least 0.1%, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one suspensory agent and/or at least one anti-caking agent chosen from organic and mineral lipophilic suspensory and/or anti-caking agents, waxes solid at room temperature, butters or a mixture of these. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising at least 0.1%, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one conditioning agent. filler chosen from mineral or organic filler agents. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, being in the form of a molded solid. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, having a compressive strength greater than 0.5 kPa, preferably greater than 1.0 kPa, measured at 20°C between two plates and at a compression speed of 10mm /min, using a Multitest-i dynamometer from the mecmesin company connected to a 5Kn sensor. Method of care and semi-permanent coloring of keratin fibers, comprising the following steps:
- applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 through said wet or moist keratin fibers in order to transfer an effective quantity of said composition to said keratin fibers;
- massage said keratin fibers to allow homogeneous distribution of the composition and uniform coloring of said keratin fibers;
- leave said composition on said keratin fibers for a period ranging from 1 to 40 min;
- rinse said keratin fibers.