FR3115204A1 - Hair Lightening Compositions WITH DAMAGE PROTECTION AND SENSORY BENEFITS AND METHODS OF USE - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair lightening compositions with damage protection and sensory benefits and methods of use Hair treatment and hair lightening compositions, methods of making and using, and kits comprising the compositions. The components of the hair treatment compositions can be incorporated into hair lightening compositions and used to lighten and/or color the hair. The hair treatment compositions comprise: (a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; (b) said one or more amino acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; and (c) said one or more antioxidant(s) comprising an aromatic ring having two alcohol functional groups. The hair lightening compositions further comprise (d) one or more bleaching agent(s). Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

Hair Lightening Compositions WITH DAMAGE PROTECTION AND SENSORY BENEFITS AND METHODS OF USE

Domain of disclosure

This disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating hair, kits comprising the compositions, and methods of using the compositions.

Background

Cosmetic care compositions are frequently used by consumers for the purpose of improving, treating or changing the appearance of keratinous substrates, such as the hair, for example by changing the color, style and/or shape of the hair and/or imparting different properties to the hair, such as shine and conditioning. Many of the known compositions and methods for improving the appearance of hair involve chemical treatment of the hair.

For example, such a chemical treatment of hair involves changing the color. This may involve removing color and/or depositing artificial color on the hair in order to give it a different shade or color and/or to regenerate the hair color during lightening from darker hair to lighter shades . The hair color regeneration process, also called lightening, generally requires the use of compositions that contain at least one oxidizing agent. A change in tone before and after application of a hair color changing composition is used to assess the lightening or regeneration of hair color. The degree or level of lightening or regeneration corresponds to the variation. The notion of “tone” is based on the classification of natural shades, a tone separating each shade from the shade that immediately precedes or follows it, as is well known to hairdressing professionals. Pitch or tone levels are in the range of 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit corresponding to one tone. So the higher the number, the lighter the shade or the greater the degree of regeneration.

Hair lightening or color replenishing compositions and hair coloring compositions are typically alkaline, with a pH value above 7, and generally a pH of 9 and above. The presence of an alkalizing agent in amounts sufficient to render such compositions alkaline is generally required, such as an ammonia generating compound or ammonia gas and/or an amine or ammonium. The alkalizing agent causes the hair shaft to swell, thus allowing small oxidative dye molecules to penetrate inside the hair cuticle and cortex before the oxidative condensation process is complete. The larger color complexes that result from the oxidative reaction are then trapped inside the hair fiber, thereby permanently altering the color of the hair.

In addition, there are many techniques and compositions for styling or modifying the shape of hair. For example, hair care products called "hair straighteners" or "hair straighteners" can straighten or straighten curly or frizzy hair, including wavy hair. Straightening or straightening the curls of very curly hair can increase the flexibility and manageability of hair of this type. Compositions for permanent hair waving cause a curl or wave to form in otherwise straight hair. Different types of compositions can be applied to hair for the purpose of changing its shape and making it more flexible, such as alkaline and acidic compositions. Straightening, straightening, perming and/or waving can be performed either in a hairdressing salon by a professional or at home by an individual consumer.

These chemical treatments can damage hair fibers and/or irritate the scalp during coloring and/or lightening, straightening, straightening, perming and/or waving hair. Therefore, with the aim of reducing or even avoiding hair damage, as well as improving the cosmetic performance of the compositions, the use of new additional components and/or new combinations of ingredients is constantly sought.

Different compositions have been presented, however, frequently the choice of components or combinations of ingredients poses difficulties insofar as they are often unstable, detrimental to other cosmetic attributes and/or pose other problems. For example, many of the compositions hitherto used lack ease and uniformity of application and/or exhibit poor rheology, viscosity, stability, color deposition and/or target shade formation. Therefore, these compositions have more drawbacks and lead in many cases to increased damage and/or a less healthy appearance of the hair. It would therefore be desirable to provide the consumer with compositions and methods which are capable of treating hair, for example regenerating hair color and/or depositing color on hair in an effective manner, while providing other cosmetic benefits such as shine, conditioning, fiber strengthening and/or healthy looking hair, while avoiding or minimizing hair damage.

Furthermore, both natural and sensitized hair and/or chemically treated hair may contain several kinds of negatively charged moieties, for example, carboxylates (which result from the hydrolysis of amino acids and thioester bonds) and/or or sulfonates (which result from the oxidation of disulfide bonds). These negatively charged fractions can degrade the cosmetic properties of the hair. Additionally, when hair is chemically treated or damaged, the disulfide bonds in the hair (disulfide bonds between two cysteine units) can be reduced or broken, resulting in the formation of thiol groups and/or cysteic acid.

There is therefore a need in the art for new compositions which protect hair fibers during bleaching, thereby reducing damage or further damage to the hair. There is a further need in the art for compositions which provide cosmetic improvement as well as a more pleasing feel to bleached hair, such as strengthening, improved softness, shine, conditioning and healthy appearance, during coloring , lightening, straightening, straightening and/or shaping hair.

Disclosure Summary

The present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for reducing damage to hair fibers during bleaching, while also providing treatment and cosmetic enhancement to hair fibers compared to the traditional post-bleach feel of hair fibers. Uniquely, the compositions and methods of the invention provide stable compositions with built-in binding and antioxidant properties that dramatically improve hair quality and durability during hair lightening. Damage during chemical treatment (lightening/bleaching process) is minimized and/or treated by the use of the composition according to the invention which has been found to protect the keratin fibers of the hair.

The compositions according to the invention use one or more antioxidant(s) having an aromatic ring with two alcohol functional groups, preferably baicalin, in combination with a polycarboxylic acid and an integrated amino acid in a hair lightening composition in order to create a integrated bleaching system that reduces hair damage. It was surprisingly and unexpectedly found that the antioxidant having an aromatic ring with a combination of two alcohol functional groups, a polycarboxylic acid and an amino acid is stable in a powdery form when mixed with a bleaching powder / a hair color changing agent / a lightening agent, realizing a one-step integrated bleaching process. In addition, it has surprisingly and unexpectedly been found that the combination of said one or more antioxidant(s) having an aromatic ring with a combination of two alcohol functional groups, a polycarboxylic acid and an amino acid provides significant benefits to fiber integrity during hair bleaching, resulting in improved tensile strength and modulus of elasticity, and reduced citric acid formation, when compared with the same bleaching agent lacking the required combination. Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has been found to impart long-lasting softness and suppleness to the hair after bleaching, which we believe is directly related to the presence of the aromatic ring with a combination of two functional groups alcohol in the antioxidant which acts in synergy with the polycarboxylic acid and the amino acid.

The invention provides, in different embodiments, compositions and kits formulated for different modes of delivery to keratinous material for one or more purposes among: providing protection to the keratinous material against the damaging effects of to oxidants and oxidizing agents in the color change system; enhancing and protecting one or more sensory characteristic(s) of keratinous material treated with oxidizing agents in the color change system; and protect and preserve the mechanical properties as well as the native amino acid structure.

The present invention relates to an integrated bleaching composition containing one or more selected antioxidant(s) having an aromatic ring with two alcohol functional groups in combination with a polycarboxylic acid and an amino acid. Non-limiting advantages of the integrated bleaching system according to the invention include that the system comprising the antioxidant, the polycarboxylic acid and an amino acid is stable in a powder form when mixed with a bleaching powder, achieving a discoloration in one step. The combination of antioxidant, polycarboxylic acid and an amino acid has been found to benefit fiber integrity during hair bleaching, resulting in tensile strength and modulus of elasticity. improved, while reducing the formation of citric acid, compared to a bleaching composition free of the new combination. In addition, the composition according to the invention has been found to impart long-lasting softness and suppleness to the hair after bleaching, which we believe, and independently of theory, is directly related to the presence of the aromatic ring with two alcohol functional groups in the antioxidant.

In one embodiment, the antioxidant includes at least one antioxidant having an aromatic ring with two alcohol functional groups. Preferably the antioxidant comprises at least one polyphenol selected from baicalin, ferulic acid, pine bark extract, polydatin and ellagic acid. Ideally, the antioxidant may comprise at least one polyphenol having an aromatic ring with two alcohol functional groups selected from a flavonoid glycoside, optionally including baicalin.

In the various embodiments, one or more of each of the antioxidant and color change system components may be provided packaged separately, or packaged in combination, such as a combination an antioxidant selected from a polyphenol having an aromatic ring with two alcohol functional groups and a bleaching agent and a developer or, in another example, a combination of an antioxidant and a bleaching agent or , in another example, a combination of an antioxidant and a colorant, and in yet another example, a combination of an antioxidant and a developer. According to these various embodiments, the various components packaged separately or combined which comprise an antioxidant, a bleaching agent or a colorant, and a developer, can be mixed before application to a keratinous material, or can be applied individually to the keratinous material in a particular sequence or order, or at the same time.

Thus, in certain embodiments, the invention provides a treatment composition that contains (a) an antioxidant composition comprising at least one antioxidant compound selected from a polyphenol having an aromatic ring with two alcohol functional groups, and a color comprising at least one of (b) a bleaching agent, (c) a developer, and (d) a colorant which may be selected from oxidative colorant precursors, wherein, according to methods of using the composition , (a) and one or more ingredient(s) from (b) and (c), or (a) and one or more ingredient(s) from (c) and (d) are combined or can be combined by one or more operations (s) one of sequential application to keratinous material or a premix followed by application to keratinous material.

According to some embodiments, said at least one antioxidant compound is selected from polyphenols, selected from baicalin, ferulic acid, pine bark extract, polydatin and ellagic acid. According to the various embodiments, the antioxidant composition comprising said at least one antioxidant compound comprises one or more auxiliary(ies) or additive(s).

The treatment compositions of the present disclosure typically contain (a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; (b) said one or more amino acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; and (c) said one or more antioxidant(s) comprising a polyphenol having an aromatic ring with two alcohol functional groups. Treatment compositions may be separate compositions which are combined with one or more bleaching agent(s) prior to use, or, preferably, may be part of a single integrated hair lightening composition (a composition having one or more several bleaching agent(s). The hair treatment compositions optionally include one or more color change system component(s). Said at least one color change system component is preferably selected from one or more of: a bleaching agent; a developer; a dye selected from oxidative dye precursors and direct dyes; a bleaching agent and a developer; a dye selected from oxidative dye precursors and direct dyes and a developer; as well as mixtures thereof.

Useful polycarboxylic acids include, but are not limited to, dicarboxylic acids and/or tricarboxylic acids, a salt thereof as well as a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid and 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, a salt thereof as well as a mixture thereof. In some instances, particularly useful dicarboxylic acids include malonic acid and/or maleic acid and/or salts thereof. Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, trimesic acid, aconitric acid (cis and/or trans) and propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid as well as salts thereof. In some instances, a particularly useful tricarboxylic acid is citric acid and/or a salt thereof. Preferably, said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) comprise dicarboxylic acids selected from maleic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, a salt thereof and/or a mixture of these.

Useful amino acids include, but are not limited to, aliphatic amino acids such as glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, and isoleucine, as well as salts thereof. In some instances, glycine and/or a salt thereof is particularly useful.

Useful cationic conditioning agents, if present, include, but are not limited to, monoalkyl quaternary amines, dialkyl quaternary amines, and polyquaternium compounds.

This disclosure relates to hair lightening compositions which comprise the components of hair treatment compositions mentioned above. For example, the present disclosure relates to hair lightening compositions, containing: (a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; (b) said one or more amino acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; (c) said one or more antioxidant(s) comprising a polyphenol having an aromatic ring with two alcohol functional groups; and (d) one or more bleaching agent(s). Non-limiting examples of polycarboxylic acids, amino acids and antioxidants are provided above.

Decolorizing agents can include, but are not limited to, peroxides, persulfates, perborate percarbonates, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygen salts, and mixtures thereof.

In some instances, the hair lightening compositions further comprise one or more oil(s), which may be one or more of ester oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, vegetable oils, animal oils , hydrocarbon-based oils and mixtures thereof. In addition, the hair lightening compositions may optionally comprise one or more thickening agent(s). Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, carboxylic acid polymers, cross-linked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums, especially guar gum.

Hair treatment compositions and/or hair lightening compositions are anhydrous or substantially anhydrous.

The hair lightening composition may optionally include colorants and dyes. Useful colorants are those which are stable in hair lightening compositions. These colorants can be used, for example, to tone and color hair. Non-limiting examples of colorants include pigments, oil-soluble dyes, direct dyes, oxidative dye precursors, pearlescent pigments, beading agents, leuco-dyes, lightening dyes, natural dyes and optically variable pigments. Couplers can also be incorporated into hair lightening compositions.

In another aspect, the invention discloses a hair lightening composition. The hair lightening composition comprises one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; one or more amino acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; one or more antioxidant(s); and one or more bleaching agent(s). Preferably, said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) is (are) selected from one or more dicarboxylic acid(s), one or more tricarboxylic acid(s), a salt of these and/or a mixture thereof. Said one or more dicarboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid , adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid , 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof; and said one or more tricarboxylic acid(s) is (are) selected from the group consisting of citric acid, isocitric acid, trimesic acid, aconitric acid (cis and/or or trans) and propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof. Preferably, said one or more amino acid(s) comprise one or more aliphatic amino acid(s) selected from glycine, alanine, valine, leucine , isoleucine, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof. Said one or more antioxidant(s) preferably comprise one or more polyphenol(s) selected from baicalin, ferulic acid, pine bark extract, polydatin, ellagic acid as well than mixtures of these.

In another aspect, the invention discloses a hair lightening composition containing from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) selected from maleic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof; from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more aliphatic amino acid(s) selected from glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine , a salt thereof as well as a mixture thereof; from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more antioxidant(s) comprising an aromatic ring having two alcohol functional groups; from about 20 to about 80% by weight of one or more persulfate(s) selected from the group comprising sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate as well as a mixture of these this; from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more oil(s); from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more thickening agent(s); from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more anionic surfactant(s); and from about 1 to about 40% by weight of one or more alkalizing agent(s) selected from the group consisting of ammonium hydroxide, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, monoethanolamine as well as a mixture thereof, wherein the wt% is in any case based on the total weight of the hair lightening composition.

The present disclosure further relates to kits comprising the hair treatment compositions and/or hair lightening compositions. For example, the kits can include a hair treatment composition that is separate from a hair lightening composition. Kits may optionally include an aqueous developer composition (often containing a peroxide such as hydrogen peroxide). Alternatively, the kits may include a hair lightening composition of the present disclosure (a single composition comprising the components of the treatment compositions and the bleaching agent(s)) and include a separate aqueous developer composition. In one aspect, the kit comprises a hair lightening composition, containing: (a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; (b) said one or more amino acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; (c) said one or more antioxidant(s) comprising an aromatic ring having two alcohol functional groups; and (d) one or more bleaching agent(s); an aqueous developer composition containing one or more peroxide(s); and optionally, a third composition containing one or more hair conditioning agent(s) and/or one or more direct dye(s). Typically, aqueous developer compositions include one or more peroxide(s), such as hydrogen peroxide. Optionally, the kits may include an additional composition containing one or more hair conditioning agent(s) and/or one or more hair coloring agent(s).

Finally, the present disclosure relates to processes for lightening and/or coloring hair; and to methods for protecting and/or improving the appearance of hair, wherein the methods involve applying a composition described herein to the hair; allowing the composition to remain on the hair for a period of time sufficient for the treatment (from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes); and rinsing the compositions from the hair. One aspect of the invention provides a method for lightening hair comprising the steps of: mixing a hair lightening composition with an aqueous developer composition containing one or more peroxide(s), the hair lightening composition containing: (a) said /said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; (b) said one or more amino acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; (c) said one or more antioxidant(s) comprising an aromatic ring having two alcohol functional groups; (d) one or more bleaching agent(s); apply the mixture to the hair and allow the mixture to remain on the hair for from about 1 to about 45 minutes; and rinse the mixture from the hair.

Detailed description of the disclosure

This disclosure relates to hair care compositions which are useful for lightening and/or coloring hair. The compositions are unique in that they reduce the degree of damage caused to the hair by the chemical (bleaching) treatment. A hair treatment composition relates to a composition which strengthens the hair and/or which reduces the damage suffered by the hair during the chemical treatment including bleaching and/or coloring of the hair. Treated hair fibers (hair treated with the compositions) exhibit desirable cosmetic properties such as improved gloss, improved combability, and improved strength and elasticity. Successful hair treatment can be determined, for example, by cysteic acid analysis.

The inventors have surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that compositions comprising a combination of one or more polycarboxylic acid(s), one or more amino acid(s) and one or more of a plurality of antioxidant(s) comprising an aromatic ring having two alcohol functional groups used in combination with a color change system, such as an oxidative regenerating or bleaching or coloring composition, when applied to materials keratinous materials such as hair, with and without heat, provide protection to the keratinous material against the adverse effects of bleaching and/or oxidizing agents in the color change system; improve and protect one or more sensory characteristic(s) and preserve the mechanical properties as well as the native amino acid structure of keratinous material treated with bleaching and/or oxidizing agents in the color change system. Therefore, the treatment compositions of the invention provide protection to keratinous material against the adverse effects of bleaching and/or oxidizing agents so as to enhance and protect one or more selected sensory characteristic(s). ) among combability, softness, elasticity, moisture and shine. In certain specific examples, the inventors have discovered that the use of the composition of polycarboxylic acid, an amino acid and an antioxidant on hair before or simultaneously with the application of at least one bleaching agent ( oxidative precursor), in particular an antioxidant comprising an aromatic ring having two alcohol functional groups selected from flavonoid glycosides, preferably baicalin and/or other polyphenols, resulted in a significant conservation of the mechanical and sensory properties of the hair compared to treatments carried out with color change systems but without the presence of an antioxidant.

Regardless of any theory, the inventors of the present disclosure believe that the polycarboxylic acid, amino acid and antioxidant compounds in the treatment compositions of the invention serve synergistically to capture oxidative species (free radicals) generated during oxidation reaction in order to prevent their association with the keratin fibers, thereby protecting the keratinous material from damage or minimizing damage to the hair. Therefore, while other compositions which employ acid can effectively reduce pH and slow the rate of oxidation, they do not provide the benefit of protecting keratin fibers from damage or minimizing the damage caused by excess radicals. The compositions of the invention provide a surprising and unexpected advantage not observed with comparative formulations which contain acids.

The compositions according to the invention are compositions which contain one or more of each of the ingredients among the polycarboxylic acid, an amino acid and antioxidant compounds, and components of a discoloration and/or color change system, comprising optionally one or more dye(s) or dye(s). The composition may include other ingredients suitable for treating hair or repairing hair. For example, known solvents and/or additives can be used in addition to the polycarboxylic acid, amino acid and antioxidant composition in order to provide additional benefits to the composition.

The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure typically include:

(a) one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof;

(b) one or more amino acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; And

(c) one or more antioxidant(s) comprising an aromatic ring having two alcohol functional groups.

The amounts of the three components of the hair treatment compositions can vary and will depend on the other components (and amounts of the other components) in the hair treatment compositions, if present. Nevertheless, in general, independently of the other components in the hair treatment composition, the ratio between (a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and (b) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) ) amine(s) is about 2:1 to about 10:1. Further, the ratio of (a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) to (b) said one or more amino acid(s) may be from about 3:1 to about 9:1, about 4:1 to about 8:1, or about 5:1 to about 6:1,

In general, the ratio of (a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) to (c) said one or more antioxidant(s) is from about 1:1 to about 8:1. However, the ratio of (a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) to (c) said one or more antioxidant(s) may be from about 2:1 to about 7:1, from about 2:1 to about 6:1, from about 2:1 to about 5:1, from about 3:1 to about 7:1, from about 3:1 to about 6:1, from about 3:1 to about 5:1, or about 3:1 to about 4:1.

In general, the ratio of (a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) to (c) said one or more antioxidant(s) is from about 1:1 to about 8:1, if one or more cationic conditioning agent(s) is (are) present. However, the ratio of (a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) to (c) one or more cationic conditioning agent(s) may be from about 2:1 to about 7 :1, about 2:1 to about 6:1, about 2:1 to about 5:1, about 3:1 to about 7:1, about 3:1 to about 6:1 , from about 3:1 to about 5:1, or from about 3:1 to about 4:1,

Generally, the ratio between (b) said one or more amino acid(s) and (c) said one or more antioxidant(s) is from about 1:1 to about 1:10, further, the ratio of (b) said one or more amino acid(s) to (c) said one or more antioxidant(s) may be from about 1:2 to about 1:9, from about 1:4 to about 1:8, or from about 1:5 to about 1:6.

In general, the ratio of (b) said one or more amino acid(s) to (c) one or more cationic conditioning agent(s) is from 0.1:1 to about 5 :1, if present. However, the ratio of (b) said one or more amino acid(s) to (c) one or more cationic conditioning agent(s) may be from about 0.1:1 to about 2:1, about 0.1:1 to about 1:1, about 0.2:1 to about 3:1, about 0.2:1 to about 2:1, about 0.2:1 to about 1:1, about 0.5:1 to about 3:1, about 0.5:1 to about 2:1, or about 0.5:1 to about 1:1,

The present disclosure also relates to hair lightening compositions which comprise the components of the hair treatment compositions mentioned above. A treatment composition can be added directly to a hair lightening composition to derive a ready-to-use hair lightening composition. For example, the hair treatment compositions can be added to a hair lightening composition, mixed, and the mixture immediately (within 1 to 60 minutes) applied to the hair. Alternatively, the hair lightening composition may already include the components of the hair treatment compositions (no separate packaging and mixing is required). Therefore, the present disclosure relates to hair lightening compositions, containing:

(a) one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof;

(b) one or more amino acid(s) and/or a salt thereof;

(c) one or more antioxidant(s); And

(d) one or more bleaching agent(s).

Optionally, the composition may additionally comprise one or more cationic conditioning agent(s).

The ratios for components (a), (b), and (c) discussed above with respect to treatment compositions can be applied to hair lightening compositions.

In some cases, said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) is (are) di-, tri- and/or tetra-carboxylic acids. Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid and 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, as well than salts thereof. Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, trimesic acid, aconitric acid (cis and/or trans) and propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, as well as than salts thereof. A non-limiting example of a tetracarboxylic acid is butane tetracarboxylic acid, and a salt thereof. In some cases, the polycarboxylic acid can be selected from the group comprising maleic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, a salt thereof as well as a mixture thereof.

The total amount of said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof may vary, but is typically about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on weight total of the hair lightening composition. In some cases, the total amount of said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof is from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, from 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, or from about 1 to about 5% by weight.

Amino acids are well known. An “amino acid” is any organic compound that has both an amino group and a carboxylic acid group. In some instances, said one or more amino acid(s) is (are) aliphatic amino acids, for example, those selected from the group comprising glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, a salt thereof as well as a mixture thereof. Glycine and/or a glycine salt is particularly useful in certain cases. The total amount of said one or more amino acid(s) and/or salts thereof may vary but typically hair lightening compositions comprise from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of said /of said one or more amino acid(s) and/or a salt thereof, based on the total weight of the hair lightening composition. In some cases, the total amount of said one or more amino acid(s) and/or salts thereof, is from about 0.01 to about 4% by weight, from about 0, 01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.1 to about 2% by weight.

The compositions include one or more antioxidant compound(s). Some representative examples of antioxidant compounds include baicalin (root extract of Scutellaria Baicalensist), pine bark extract (bark/bud extract of Pinus Pinaster), ferulic acid (a hydroxycinnamic acid), and ellagic acid. Other examples include dihydrochalone, ascorbic acid, zinc PCA and polydatin. More generally, the antioxidant compounds can be selected from phenolic compounds (including polyphenols).

Optionally, compositions which may contain one or more cationic conditioning agent(s) are well known. Non-limiting examples of said one or more cationic conditioning agent(s) usable in the compositions of the present disclosure include monoalkyl quaternary amines, dialkyl quaternary amines as well as polyquaternium compounds. In some cases polyquaternium compounds are used and in some cases the polyquaternium compounds are polyquaternium polymers. One type of polyquaternium polymer which is useful comprises one or more quaternized polymer(s) of dimethyldiallylammonium and acrylic acid, such as for example polyquaternium-22, the total amount of said one or more ) of cationic conditioner(s) may vary, but when present, it is in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on weight total of the hair lightening composition. In some instances, the total amount of said one or more cationic conditioning agent(s) is about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from 0.01 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, d about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 6 wt% , about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 3% by weight.

Decolorizing agents are well known. Non-limiting examples of bleaching agents include peroxides, persulfates, perborates percarbonates, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygen salts as well as mixtures thereof. Decolorizing agents which may also be used include at least one redox enzyme such as laccases, peroxidases, and 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricase, when appropriate in the presence of their respective donor or cofactor. In some cases, said one or more bleaching agent(s) is (are) persulfates, for example, one or more persulfate(s) from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate. The total amount of said one or more bleaching agent(s) may vary but is typically about 20 to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair lightening composition. In some instances, the total amount of decolorizing agent may be about 20 to about 70% by weight, about 20 to about 60% by weight, about 30 to about 80% by weight, about 30 to about 70% by weight, from about 30 to about 60% by weight, from about 40 to about 80% by weight, from about 40 to about 70% by weight, from about 40 to about 60% by weight, from about 50 to about 80% by weight, from about 50 to about 70% by weight, or from about 50 to about 60% by weight.

In some instances, hair lightening compositions include one or more oils. Non-limiting examples of oils include ester oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, vegetable oils, animal oils, hydrocarbon-based oils as well as mixtures thereof. In some cases, hydrocarbon based oils, such as mineral oil, may be provided. The total amount of said one or more oil(s) may vary but is typically about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair lightening composition. In some instances, the total amount of said one or more oil(s) is about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0, 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, or about 1 to about 5% by weight.

The hair lightening composition may also optionally comprise one or more thickening agent(s). Thickening agents are well known. Nevertheless, non-limiting examples of thickening agents include carboxylic acid polymers, cross-linked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides and gums. More specifically, non-limiting examples of thickening agents include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan , carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica , hydroxypropyl-chitosan, hydroxypropyl-guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum as well as mixtures thereof. In some cases, said one or more thickening agent(s) comprises a cross-linked polyacrylate polymer, for example, a cross-linked C10-30 alkyl acrylate/acrylate polymer. Further, in some instances said one or more thickening agent(s) includes guar gum.

The total amount of said one or more thickening agent(s) may vary but is typically about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair lightening composition. In some instances, the total amount of said one or more thickening agent(s) is about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, 0.01 to about 4 wt%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, from about 0 1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, or about 0.5 to about 3 wt%.

Hair lightening compositions may comprise one or more anionic surfactant(s). For example, anionic surfactant(s) which may be useful include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamide ether sulfates, polyalkylaryl ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acid, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl carboxylic ether acids and salts of alkylamide carboxylic ether acids; or the non-salified forms of each of these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of each of these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group designating a phenyl group. Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 units of ethylene oxide.

The salts of C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-sulfo succinates.

When the anionic surfactants are in the form of a salt, they can be chosen in particular from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts, and in particular amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt. Examples of amino alcohol salts which may in particular be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, can be used.

Also used are (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl ether sulfates, which are optionally ethoxylated, which contain from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units , as well as mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

In certain cases, said one or more anionic surfactant(s) is (are) selected from the group comprising sodium oleyl succinate, lauryl ammonium sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (also known as sodium laureth sulphate, SLES), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate (ALS), ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (ammonium laureth sulfate), sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulfonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate as well as a mixture of these. In some instances, preferred anionic surfactants include sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, lauryl ammonium sulfate, lauryl ammonium ether sulfate, or a mixture of these.

The total amount of said one or more anionic surfactant(s) is typically about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair lightening composition. In some instances, the total amount of said one or more anionic surfactant(s) is about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair lightening composition.

Hair lightening compositions often include one or more alkalizing agent(s). The term "alkalizing agent" means an ingredient which is capable of imparting a certain alkalinity (eg a pH greater than 7) to the hair lightening composition. Hair lightening compositions typically have an alkaline pH (a pH greater than 7), for example, a pH of about 8 to about 11, or about 8 to about 10. Suitable alkalizing agents include ammonium, metal hydroxides, alkanolamines, sodium silicate, metal carbonates such as magnesium carbonate, sodium metasilicate and a mixture thereof. Suitable metal hydroxides and carbonates include alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides or carbonates. Examples of such metal hydroxides include sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium etc. A common alkaline earth metal hydroxide is sodium hydroxide. Suitable alkanolamines include mono-, di-, and trialkanolamines such as monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine (DEA), triethanolamine (TEA), 2-aminobutanol, aminoethyl propanediol, aminomethyl propanediol, bis-hydroxyethyl tromethamine, diethanolamine, diethyl ethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, dimethylamino methylpropanol, dimethyl MEA, isopropanolamine, methylethanolamine, mixed isopropanolamines, triisopropanolamine, tromethamine as well as mixtures thereof. A particularly preferred alkanolamine is MEA. In some cases, the hair lightening compositions comprise one or more alkalizing agent(s) selected from the group comprising ammonium hydroxide, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, monoethanolamine as well as a mixture of these.

The total amount of said one or more alkalizing agent(s) may vary but is typically from about 1 to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair lightening composition. In some instances, the total amount of said one or more alkalizing agent(s) is about 1 to about 35% by weight, about 1 to about 30% by weight, about 1 to about 25% by weight, from about 5 to about 40% by weight, from about 5 to about 35% by weight, from about 5 to about 30% by weight, from about 5 to about 25% by weight, d about 10 to about 40% by weight, about 10 to about 35% by weight, about 10 to about 30% by weight, or about 10 to about 25% by weight, based on total weight hair lightening composition.

One or more fillers may optionally be provided in the hair lightening compositions. Non-limiting examples of fillers include starches, maltodextrins, calcium silicates, perlites, zeolites, polylactic acids, silicas, polyamide powders, polyvinyl-pyrrolidones, dextrose, oligosaccharides, celluloses, diatomite, diatomaceous earth, talc, clays, silicon dioxide, magnesium silicates (i.e. talc powder), clays and a mixture thereof. In some cases, said one or more filler(s) comprises one or more alkali metal salt(s) of fatty acids and/or organic base salt(s) of fatty acids, for example, sodium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, ammonium stearate, ammonium oleate, ammonium nanonoate, sodium palmitate, potassium stearate, potassium palmitate, sodium myristate, aluminum monostearate and a mixture thereof.

The total amount of said one or more filler(s) may vary but is typically from about 1 to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair lightening composition. In some cases, the total amount of said one or more filler(s) is about 1 to about 35% by weight, about 1 to about 30% by weight, about 1 to about 25% by weight, from about 5 to about 40% by weight, from about 5 to about 35% by weight, from about 5 to about 30% by weight, from about 5 to about 25% by weight, from about 10 to about 40% by weight, from about 10 to about 35% by weight, from about 10 to about 30% by weight, or from about 10 to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition hair lightener.

Hair treatment compositions and hair lightening compositions of the present disclosure are often anhydrous or essentially anhydrous. The term "substantially anhydrous" means that the composition is either completely free of water or contains no appreciable amount of water, for example, not more than 3% by weight, or not more than 2% by weight, or not more 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

A non-limiting example of a hair lightening composition according to the present disclosure comprises: (a) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the maleic acid; (b) from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more aliphatic amino acid(s) selected from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine as well as mixtures thereof; (c) from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight of one or more cationic conditioning agent(s); (d) from about 20 to about 80% by weight of one or more persulfate(s) selected from the group comprising sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate as well as mixtures of these; (e) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more oil(s); and (f) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more thickening agent(s).

In one embodiment, the present disclosure relates to substantially anhydrous hair lightening compositions which comprise: (a) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, or from about 1 to about 5% by weight of about one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) selected from the group consisting of maleic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, a salt of these as well as a mixture thereof; (b) from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more acid(s) ) aliphatic amine(s) selected from the group comprising glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof; and in particular, glycine and/or a salt thereof; (c) from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more antioxidant(s) ); (d) about 20 to about 80% by weight, about 30 to about 70%, or about 35 to about 65% by weight of one or more decolorizing agent(s), for example, a or more peroxide(s), persulfate(s), perborate(s), percarbonate(s), alkali metal bromate(s), ferricyanide(s), peroxygen salt(s) or a mixture thereof ; and in particular one or more persulfate(s) selected from the group comprising potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, ammonium persulfate or a mixture thereof; (e) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, or from about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more oil(s), for example, one or more ester oil(s), silicone oil(s), fluorinated oil(s), vegetable oil(s), animal oil(s), oil( (s) hydrocarbon-based or mixtures thereof; and in particular one or more hydrocarbon-based oil(s) such as mineral oil; (f) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more ) thickener(s), for example, one or more thickening agent(s) selected from the group comprising acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, alginate of ammonium, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan , propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, gum tragacanth, xanthan gum, cross-linked polymer of acrylates/C10-3 0 alkylacrylate as well as mixtures thereof; and in particular guar gum; (g) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more surfactant(s) ) anionic(s), for example, one or more anionic surfactant(s) selected from the group comprising sodium oleyl succinate, lauryl ammonium sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate (ALS), ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium isethionate sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, sodium N-lauryl sarcosonate and a mixture thereof; and (h) from about 1 to about 40% by weight, from about 5 to about 35% by weight, or from about 10 to about 25% by weight of one or more alkalizing agent(s) , for example said one or more alkalizing agent(s) selected from the group comprising ammonium hydroxide, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, monoethanolamine as well as a mixture of these; (i) optionally, about 1 to about 40% by weight, about 5 to about 35% by weight, or about 10 to about 25% by weight of one or more filler(s), for example , one or more alkali metal salt(s) of fatty acids and/or organic base salt(s) such as sodium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, ammonium stearate, ammonium oleate, ammonium nonanoate, zinc sodium palmitate, potassium stearate, potassium palmitate, sodium myristate, monostearate aluminum or a mixture thereof.

The above hair lightening compositions may optionally comprise one or more cationic conditioning polymer(s). Alternatively, cationic conditioning polymers can be excluded, i.e. the hair lightening compositions can be free or substantially free of cationic conditioning polymers.

The present disclosure further relates to kits comprising the hair treatment compositions and/or hair lightening compositions. For example, the kits can include hair restructuring compositions which are separate from hair lightening compositions which are separate from an optional aqueous developer composition. Alternatively, the kits can comprise the hair lightening compositions of the present disclosure (comprising the components of the treatment compositions and the bleaching agent) and a separate aqueous developer composition. Typically, aqueous developer compositions include one or more peroxide(s), such as hydrogen peroxide. Optionally, the kits may include an additional composition containing one or more hair conditioning agent(s) and/or a hair coloring agent(s).

Finally, the present disclosure relates to processes for lightening and/or coloring hair; and to methods for protecting and/or improving the appearance of hair, wherein the methods involve applying the compositions described herein to the hair; to allow the compositions to remain on the hair for a period of time sufficient for the treatment; and rinsing the compositions from the hair.

More comprehensive but non-limiting lists of components that are useful in the compositions of this disclosure are set forth below.

Antioxidant compositions

The antioxidant composition according to the disclosure is differently incorporated into the compositions of the invention. The antioxidant compositions include at least one antioxidant compound. Some representative examples of antioxidant compounds include baicalin (root extract of Scutellaria Baicalensis), pine bark extract (bark/bud extract of Pinus Pinaster), ferulic acid (a hydroxycinnamic acid) and ellagic acid. Other examples include dihydrochalone, ascorbic acid, zinc PCA, and polydatin. More generally, the antioxidant compounds can be selected from other phenolic compounds (including polyphenols).

Phenolic compounds

Phenolic compounds are a structural class of natural, synthetic, and semi-synthetic organic compounds that exhibit one or more phenolic constituent(s). Phenolic compounds containing multiple phenol groups are known as polyphenols. Polyphenols are normally available in plants and are very useful in protecting plants and also animals against common health problems and also the effects of aging. Polyphenols function as powerful free radical scavengers by donating their alcoholic hydrogen or one of their delocalized electrons. The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.

Flavonoids are a specific group of polyphenols, and are the most abundant group of polyphenolic compounds, constituting about two-thirds of the total phenols in foods consumed. Flavonoids are further categorized, based on their chemical structure, into chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins, and tannins. Over 4000 flavonoids have been identified, many of which are present in fruits, vegetables and beverages (tea, coffee, beer, wine and fruit juice). Flavonoids have been reported to exhibit antiviral, antiallergic, antiplatelet, antiinflammatory, antitumor, and antioxidant activities. Flavonoids protect lipids and vital cellular components from harmful oxidative stress by effectively scavenging free radicals.

Non-flavonoid polyphenols include lignans, aurones, stilbenoids, curcuminoids and other phenylpropanoids. Many of these are also well-known antioxidants such as resveratrol, curcumin and pinoresinol.

Other phenolic compounds, in addition to polyphenols, include alkylphenols, betacyanins, capsacinoids, hydroxybenzoketones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones, and phenolic terpenes. Some popular examples are ferulic acid, hydroxytyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, and p-coumaric acid.

Selected antioxidant compounds

According to certain specific examples according to the disclosure, antioxidant compounds include one or more of baicalin (root extract of Scutellaria Baicalensis), pine bark extract (bark/bud extract of Pinus Pinaster) , ferulic acid (a hydroxycinnamic acid) and ellagic acid.

Scutellaria baicalensis root extract includes the compound baicalin, which has also been identified as a component of the Chinese herbal medicine Huang-chin, and is a flavone, a type of flavonoid. It is a powerful antioxidant that has powerful effects against diseases related to oxidative stress, inflammations, allergies, cancer, bacterial infections, etc.

Pine Bark Extract (Pinus Pinaster Bark/Bud Extract) contains a variety of compounds, including oligomeric proanthocyanidin compounds, and is generally associated with benefits ranging from cholesterol control to actions on various cardiovascular, cerebral and circulatory problems.

Ferulic acid is a hydroxycinnamic acid found widely in giant fennel, coffee beans, apples, artichokes, peanuts, and oranges, as well as in both the seeds and cell walls of commelinid plants (such as rice, wheat, oats and pineapples). Like many natural phenols, it is a powerful antioxidant that is highly reactive to free radicals and reduces oxidative stress. Many studies suggest that ferulic acid may have antitumor activity.

Ellagic acid is a small phytochemical that is naturally present in red fruits and berries and in some nuts, including pomegranates, strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, bilberries, walnuts and pecans. Ellagic acid can also be generated by breaking down ellagitannins that can be obtained from certain plants. Ellagic acid has been shown to have anticancer activity, among other benefits.

According to the disclosure, the antioxidant compositions contain up to 100% antioxidant, and may include a diluent or a carrier or another component, such as, for example, sodium silicate. In some embodiments, the antioxidant compositions include an active antioxidant that is present at a concentration, by weight, of about 50%. Thus, according to the compositions of the invention, a composition which contains (a) an antioxidant composition comprising at least one antioxidant compound, and a color change system which contains (b) a bleaching agent, and (c) a developer , or (c) a developer and (d) a colorant which may be selected from oxidative dye precursors, wherein, according to methods of using the composition, (i) (a) and one or more of the ingredients ( b) and (c), or (ii) (a) and one or more of ingredients (c) and (d) are combined or combinable, the antioxidant composition may comprise an active antioxidant which is present at up to 100%, or which may be present in an amount which is less than 100%, such as for example 50%.

Therefore, antioxidants are used in the compositions in the form of raw materials which contain from about 0.1% or less, to about 100% of at least one active antioxidant, and which are in some examples provided in a mixture with a component, such as but not limited to sodium silicate, wherein said at least one active antioxidant is present in the mixture from about 0.1% to about 99%, by weight, based on the total weight of raw material.

According to the different embodiments set out below, the compositions, kits and methods of the invention contain with said at least one antioxidant, one or more component(s) of a color change system which is selected from the group comprising a bleaching agent, a developer and a dye selected from oxidative dye precursors and direct dyes. Embodiments that are useful for color lightening or regeneration include a bleaching agent as the oxidant and a developer as the oxidizing agent. Embodiments that are useful for color change or deposit include a colorant and a developer. Thus, in the various embodiments, the compositions as well as mixtures comprise at least one antioxidant, either a bleaching agent or a colorant, and a developer.

In a representative example, as described in detail in the examples below, a composition which contains (a) an antioxidant composition containing at least one antioxidant compound, and a color change system which contains (b) either an bleach is a colorant, and (c) a developer, wherein, in methods of using the composition, (a) and one or more of ingredients (b) and (c) are combined or combinable comprise 15 g of bleaching agent and 0.2 g of a composition which contains 50% active baicalin. Therefore, the amount of active baicalin present is 0.1 g. Expressed as a percentage by weight of the combination of decolorizing agent and baicalin, baicalin is present in the compositions at approximately 0.7% by weight, based on the weight of the composition containing the antioxidant baicalin and the bleaching agent. For the purposes of this example, the amount of developer is not considered in the calculation of the total weight of the composition. Reference is made to the examples below with respect to absolute weight amounts of each of the other exemplified antioxidant compositions, where for each of these, the weight percentage thereof may be expressed as the weight percentage of the combination of antioxidant and bleaching agent.

Thus, according to the disclosure, the amount of active baicalin which is present in a composition of the invention which contains (a) an antioxidant composition comprising at least one antioxidant compound, and a color change system which contains (b) either a bleaching agent is a colorant, and (c) a developer, wherein, in methods of using the composition, (a) and one or more of ingredients (b) and (c) are combined or combinable and may be ranging from at least about 0.1% up to about 5%, based on the weight of the total composition containing the antioxidant and bleaching agent. In certain particular embodiments, the amount of baicalin can range from about 0.2% to about 4%; or from about 0.3% to about 3.5%; or from about 0.7% to about 2.3%, based on the total weight of the composition containing the antioxidant and bleaching agent. According to some embodiments, the compositions contain no more than 2.5% baicalin. According to other embodiments, the compositions contain no more than 2.3%, or no more than 2% or no more than 1.5%, or no more than 1%, or no more than 0.7% , or not more than 0.5% baicalin.

Thus, according to the disclosure, the amount of active pine bark extract which is present in a composition of the invention which contains (a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and ) amine(s) in combination with an antioxidant composition comprising at least one antioxidant compound, and a color change system which contains (b) either a bleaching agent or a colorant, and (c) a developer, wherein, according to methods of using the composition, (a) and one or more of ingredients (b) and (c) are combined or combinable, may range from at least about 0.1% up to about 5 %, based on the weight of the total composition containing the antioxidant and bleaching agent. In certain particular embodiments, the amount of pine bark extract may range from about 0.2% to about 4%; or from about 0.3% to about 3.5%; or from about 0.7% to about 2.3%, based on the total weight of the composition containing the antioxidant and bleaching agent. According to certain embodiments, the compositions contain no more than 2.5% pine bark extract. According to other embodiments, the compositions contain no more than 2.3%, or no more than 2% or no more than 1.5%, or no more than 1%, or no more than 0.7% , or not more than 0.5% pine bark extract.

Thus, according to the disclosure, the amount of active ferulic acid which is present in a composition of the invention which contains (a) an antioxidant composition comprising at least one antioxidant compound, and a color change system which contains (b) either a bleaching agent or a colorant, and (c) a developer, wherein, according to methods of using the composition, (a) and one or more of ingredients (b) and (c) are combined or combinable, can range from at least about 0.1% up to about 3%, based on the weight of the total composition containing the antioxidant and bleaching agent. In certain particular embodiments, the amount of ferulic acid can range from about 0.2% to about 2%; or from about 0.3% to about 1.5%; or from about 0.7% to about 1.2%, based on the total weight of the composition containing the antioxidant and bleaching agent. In some embodiments, the compositions contain no more than 2% ferulic acid. According to other embodiments, the compositions contain no more than 1.8%, or no more than 1.6% or no more than 1.4%, or no more than 1.2%, or no more than 0.8%, or not more than 0.5% ferulic acid.

Thus, according to the disclosure, the amount of active ellagic acid which is present in a composition of the invention which contains (a) an antioxidant composition comprising at least one antioxidant compound, and a color change system which contains (b) either a bleaching agent or a colorant, and (c) a developer, wherein, according to methods of using the composition, (a) and one or more of ingredients (b) and (c) are combined or combinable, can range from at least about 0.1% up to about 3%, based on the weight of the total composition containing the antioxidant and bleaching agent. In certain particular embodiments, the amount of ellagic acid can range from about 0.2% to about 2.5%; or from about 0.6% to about 2.0%; or from about 0.9% to about 1.8%, based on the total weight of the composition containing the antioxidant and bleaching agent. According to certain embodiments, the compositions contain no more than 2.5% ellagic acid. According to other embodiments, the compositions contain no more than 2.3%, or no more than 2% or no more than 1.5%, or no more than 1.2%, or no more than 0, 9%, or not more than 0.5% ellagic acid.

As described herein, an antioxidant may be provided in the form of a raw material which may contain one or more additional component(s), wherein the amount of active antioxidant in such raw material composition may be in the range of 0.1% to 99% active. Thus, in various embodiments, any one or more of the antioxidant components may be present in any composition according to the disclosure in a percentage amount by weight as described above, which is determined to be the product of the percentage purity (based on weight, unless otherwise specified) of the antioxidant in the raw material composition and the percentage, by weight, of the raw material composition used in the composition of the invention. Thus, one or more active antioxidant(s) may be present in an antioxidant raw material composition in an amount that ranges from 0.01 to about 99%, or about 0. 01, 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 04, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95 at about 99 percent by weight, including increments and ranges within and between them. And a composition of the invention containing at least one active antioxidant and one or more ingredient(s) among a bleaching agent, a developer, a colorant, a carrier and an additive or an auxiliary, will contain as an active antioxidant of about 0 .1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 , 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 3, 4, to approximately 5 percent by weight, including increments and ranges within these scales and between them. In one example, a composition of the invention contains 0.4% by weight of an antioxidant raw material composition which contains 50% active antioxidant; therefore the composition of the invention contains 0.2% of active antioxidant.

Additives

Optional additional antioxidants

The compositions may also contain one or more additional antioxidant(s) which is (are) different from the flavonoid(s) used in the composition and ferulic acid. The additional antioxidants can be any antioxidant suitable for use in cosmetic formulations. Suitable antioxidants include, but are not limited to, resveratrol, tannic acid, polyphenols, amino acids and derivatives thereof, imidazoles, peptides such as carnosine and derivatives, carotenoids, carotenes ( such as α-carotene, β-carotene and lycopene), α-hydroxy acids (such as citric acid, lactic acid or malic acid), tocopherols and derivatives (such as vitamin E), vitamin A, ascorbic acid, co-enzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, glutathione, plant extracts (such as rosemary extract or olive leaf extracts) and extracts of green tea.

The amount of additional antioxidants present in the compositions can range from about 0.01% to about 20%; from about 0.1% to about 20%; or from about 0.01% to about 10%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Optional Hydrotropes

Hydrotropes or glycols can be used in certain embodiments for the purpose of increasing the solubility of the components of the compositions if the solubility of any of the components in water is low. A hydrotropic solution is prepared by completely dissolving one or more hydrotropic agent(s) in water. The component(s) is then added and mixed using a stir bar or other mixer. Solubilization of the components occurs after a few minutes, and mixing is continued until a stable clear solution is obtained, usually after one hour of mixing. No heat is required when following this procedure to dissolve phenolic compounds. Everything is prepared at room temperature to maintain the stability of the phenolic compounds. This is extremely useful to protect the activity of certain compounds and also to make the process much easier to perform.

Hydrotropes (or hydrotropic agents) are a diverse class of water-soluble compounds that are characterized by an amphiphilic molecular structure and an ability to dramatically increase the solubility of poorly water-soluble organic molecules. Said at least one hydrotrope is present in the composition in amounts effective to increase the solubility of the phenolic compound in water. The term at least one hydrotrope means one hydrotrope or a combination of two or more hydrotropes. A hydrotrope or a combination of two or more hydrotropes can be used to improve the solubility of phenolic compounds in water. The amount of hydrotropes will vary depending on the hydrotrope as well as the type and amount of phenolic compound. To increase the solubility in water of the phenolic compound(s) means to increase the solubility of the phenolic compound(s) in water compared to the solubility of the phenolic compound(s). s) in water in the absence of the hydrotrope or hydrotropes.

An advantage of using hydrotropes is that once a stable solution has been obtained, further dilution does not affect the stability of the solution. This is very different from the organic solvents commonly used to increase the water solubility of phenolic compounds, such as polyphenols. Typically, aqueous dilution of organic solvents with one or more pre-dissolved phenolic compound(s), such as a polyphenol, results in crystallization or precipitation.

Most of the hydrotropes show an aromatic structure including an ionic moiety, although some of them are linear alkyl chains, as listed in the table below. Although hydrotropes strongly resemble surfactants and exhibit the ability to reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic units and relatively shorter alkyl chain distinguish them as a separate class of amphiphiles. Therefore, their hydrophobicity is not sufficient to create well-organized self-associated structures, such as micelles, even with high concentration.

Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1,3-benzene disulphonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzene sulphonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluene sulphonate, sodium butyl monoglycol sulfate, 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumene sulfonate, N,N-diethylnicotinamide, N-picolylnicotinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butylurea, pyrogallol, N-picolylacetamide 3.5, proicaine HCl, proline HCl, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylene sulfonate, ethyl carbamate, hydrochloride pyridoxal, sodium benzoate, 2-pyrrolidone, ethylurea, N,N-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide and isoniazid. Hydrotropes can be found in Lee J. et al., “Hydrotropic Solubilization of Paclitaxel: Analysis of Chemical Structures for Hydrotropic Property”, Pharmaceutical Research, Volume 20, No. 7, 2003; and de Lee S. et al., “Hydrotropic Polymers: Synthesis and Characterization of Polymers Containing Picolylnicotinamide Moieties”, Macromolecules, 36, 2248-2255, 2003.

Cosmetically acceptable hydrotropes refer to hydrotropes which can be used in cosmetic compositions. Although hydrotropes represent a large class of molecules used in different fields, cosmetic applications will be limited by safety and tolerance restrictions. Suitable hydrotropes for use in cosmetics include, but are not limited to, nicotinamide (vitamin B3), caffeine, sodium PCA (pyrrolidone carbonic acid sodium salt), sodium salicylate, urea and hydroxyethyl urea. The suitability of a hydrotrope for use in cosmetic compositions can be determined by performing tests known in the art for determining effects on the skin, and toxicity to humans.

The amount of hydrotropes present in the compositions can range from about 0.1% to about 20%; from about 0.1% to about 10%; or from about 1% to about 50%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Water

The antioxidant-containing compositions can contain from about 1 to about 99.9% by weight water, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of water in the composition can range from about 1 to 99.5%; from about 1 to 60%; or about 1 to 50%, based on the total weight of the composition.

pH

The pH of the compositions is not limited but is generally between 2 and 12, or between 3 and 9. The pH can be adjusted to the desired value by adding a base (organic or inorganic) to the composition, for example l ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary poly(amine), such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or alternatively by adding an inorganic or organic acid, advantageously a carboxylic acid , such as, for example, citric acid.

Polycarboxylic acids

The polycarboxylic acid can be chosen in particular from linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic carboxylic acids, containing from 2 to 50, in particular from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 3 to 36, or even 3 to 18, 4 to 12 carbon atoms, or even 5 to 10 carbon atoms; the acid comprising at least two COOH carboxylic groups, or from 2 to 4 COOH groups; and optionally comprising from 1 to 10 or from 1 to 6 identical or different heteroatoms, chosen from O, N and S; and/or optionally comprising at least one perfluorinated radical chosen from -CF ₂ - (divalent) or -CF ₃ .

In some cases, said polycarboxylic acid is saturated, linear and aliphatic and contains from 2 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 3 to 18 carbon atoms or even from 4 to 12 carbon atoms; or alternatively is aromatic and contains 8 to 12 carbon atoms. In some cases, it may include 2 to 4 COOH groups.

The cyclic anhydride of a polycarboxylic acid can correspond in particular to one of the following formulas:

wherein the groups A and B are, independently of each other: a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic aliphatic, or alternatively aromatic carbon-based radical, which contains 1 to 16 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 10 carbon atoms or even 4 to 8 carbon atoms, especially methyl or ethyl, or alternatively A and B taken together form a saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, aromatic ring , which contains a total of 5 to 14, in particular 5 to 10 or even 6 to 7 carbon atoms. In some cases, A and B represent a hydrogen atom or together form an aromatic ring which contains a total of 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

Among the polycarboxylic acids or the anhydrides thereof which can be used, we can cite, alone or in the form of mixtures: dicarboxylic acids such as decanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, cyclopropane carboxylic acid, diacid cyclohexane carboxylic, cyclobutane carboxylic diacid, naphthalene-1,4-carboxylic diacid, naphthalene-2,3-carboxylic diacid, naphthalene-2,6-carboxylic diacid, suberic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid, hexahydrophthalic acid, pimelic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid and fatty acid dimers (particularly C ₃₆ ); tricarboxylic acids such as cyclohexane-tricarboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, 1,2,3-benzene-tricarboxylic acid and 1,3,5-benzene-tricarboxylic acid; tetracarboxylic acids such as butane-tetracarboxylic acid and pyromellitic acid, cyclic anhydrides of these acids and in particular phthalic anhydride, trimellitic anhydride, maleic anhydride and succinic anhydride.

We can also cite polycarboxylic acids chosen, alone or in the form of mixtures, from:

(i) polycarboxylic acids comprising a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched chain comprising at least one heteroatom chosen from O, N and/or S, in particular from 1 to 10 identical or different heteroatoms and/or comprising at least one perfluorinated radical -CF ₂ - or -CF ₃ and further comprising at least 2 COOH carboxylic groups and in particular from 2 to 4 COOH groups; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such polycarboxylic acid; and or

(ii) saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, heterocyclic polycarboxylic acids comprising at least one heteroatom chosen from 0, N and/or S, in particular from 1 to 10, or even from 1 to 4, identical or different heteroatoms, and at least 2 COOH carboxylic groups and in particular from 2 to 4 COOH groups; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such polycarboxylic acid; and or

(iii) polycarboxylic acids based on sugar which can be obtained in particular by oxidation of an aldose, and which comprise at least 2 COOH carboxylic groups and in particular 2 or 3 COOH groups; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such polycarboxylic acid; and or

(iv) an itaconic anhydride and a 1,4,5,8-naphthalene tetracarboxylic acid 1,4-monoanhydride; and or

(v) polycarboxylic amino acids (including heterocyclic), that is to say polycarboxylic acids comprising a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic chain, optionally comprising at least one heteroatom chosen from O, N and / or S, in particular from 1 to 10 identical or different heteroatoms and/or optionally comprising at least one perfluorinated radical -CF ₂ - or -CF ₃ ; and also comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function (in particular NR ¹ R ² with R ¹ and R ² , independently of each other, chosen from H and C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl), in particular from 1 to 3 identical or different amine functions, and further comprising at least 2 COOH carboxylic groups, in particular from 2 to 4 COOH groups; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid.

We can cite more particularly, alone or in the form of mixtures, the following dicarboxylic acids: (i) 2,2'-[1,5-pentanediylbis(thio)]bis-acetic acid, 6,6' -[(1,2-dioxo-1,2-ethanediyl)diimino]bis-hexanoic acid, 2,2'-sulfinylbis-acetic acid, 4,13-dioxo-3,5,12,14- tetrazahexadecanedioic, poly(ethylene glycol)disuccinate, especially mass 250-600 poly(ethylene glycol)bis(carboxymethyl) ether, especially mass 250-600 poly[oxy(1,2-dicarboxy-1,2-ethanediyl) ], in particular DP<10 8-[(carboxymethyl)amino]-8-oxooctanoic acid, 2,2'-[methylenebis(sulfonyl)]bis-acetic acid, 4,4'-(1, 6-hexanediyldiimino)bis[4-oxobutanoic], 4,9-dioxo-3,5,8,10-tetraazadodecanedioic acid, 4-[(1-carboxyethyl)amino]-4-oxobutanoic acid, 6-[(3-carboxy-1-oxopropyl)amino]-hexanoic acid, N,N'-(1,6-dioxo-1,6-hexanediyl)bis-glycine, N,N'-(1, 6-dioxo-1,6-hexanediyl)bis-phenylalanine, N,N'-(1,3-dioxo-1,3-propanediyl)bis-glycine 4,4'-[( 1,4-dioxo-1,4-butanediyl)diimino]bis-butanoic acid, 4,4'-[(1,6-dioxo-1,6-hexanediyl)diimino]bis-butanoic acid, 6 ,6'-[1,6-hexanediylbis(iminocarbonylimino)]bis-hexanoic acid, N-benzoyl-S-(carboxymethyl)-cysteine, N,N'-(2,2,3,3-tetrafluoro-1, 4-dioxo-1,4-butanediyl)bis-glycine, N,N'-(2,2,3,3-tetrafluoro-1,4-dioxo-1,4-butanediyl)bis-alanine, acid 4,4'-[(2,2,3,3-tetrafluoro-1,4-dioxo-1,4-butanoic, N,N'-(1,5-dioxo-1,5-pentanediyl)bis- glycine, N,N'-(1,9-dioxo-1,9-nonanediyl)bis-glycine, N,N'-(1,10-dioxo-1,10-decanediyl)bis[N-methyl] glycine, bis(3-carboxypropyl)ester-propanedioic acid, 7,16-dioxo-6,8,15,17-tetrazadocosanedioic acid, N-benzoyl-N-(2-carboxyethyl)glycine, [2-[(2-carboxymethyl)amino]-2-oxoethyl]benzene propanoic acid, [2-[(2-carboxyethyl)amino]-2-oxoethyl]benzene-propanoic acid; (ii) 4,7,9,12-tetraoxapentadecanedioic acid, 2,3-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 4-pyranone-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-pyrazine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-benzofuran-dicarboxylic acid, 7-oxabicyclo[2,2,1]heptane-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-pyridine- dicarboxylic acid, 2,4-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 3,5-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,6-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 1H-imidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 6,6,7,7-tetrafluoro-3-oxabicyclo[3.2,0]heptane-2,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2,6-pyrazine-dicarboxylic acid, l 2,6-dimethyl-3,5-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 1-phenyl-1H-pyrazole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-furan-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4 -furan-dicarboxylic acid, 1,2,5-thiadiazole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 1,4-dihydro-1,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-furan-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 1H-1,2,3-triazole-4 acid, 5-dicarboxylic acid, 2-methylimidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 2,4-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, naphtho[2,1-b]furan-1,2-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid 7-oxabicyclo[2,2,1]hept-5-ene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid 2,3-quinoxaline-dicarboxylic acid 1,4-piperazine-dicarboxylic acid 2,5-dimethyl-3,4-furan-dicarboxylic acid, tetrahydro-2,5-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 4-phenyl-3,5-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, thieno[3,2 -b]thiophene-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 3-methyl-2,4-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, naphthostyril-5,6-dicarboxylic acid, 3-phenyl-2,4-quinoline- dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-dimethyl-2,5-dicarboxythiophene, 3,4-diphenyl-2,5-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-diphenyl-3,4-furan-dicarboxylic acid, 7-oxo-7H-benzimidazo[2,1-a]benz[de]isoquinoline-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-dihydro-1,3-dioxo-1H-benz[de]isoquinoline- 6,7-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-bis(phenylmethoxy)-2,5-furan-dicarboxylic acid, 4,4'-bibenz acid oic-2,2'-sulfone, 2,7-diphenyl-m-anthrazoline-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 2,4-pyrimidine-dicarboxylic acid, 2-phenyl-4,5- thiazole-dicarboxylic acid, 6-phenyl-2,3-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 5,6-dimethyl-2,3-pyrazine-dicarboxylic acid, 3,7-dibenzothiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 9-oxo-9H-xanthene-1,7-dicarboxylic acid, 2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)-H-imidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 6,7-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 6-methyl-2,3-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 4,5-pyrimidine-dicarboxylic acid, 2-methyl-3,4-furan-dicarboxylic acid, 1,2-indolizine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,8-dibenzothiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 3,6-pyridazine-dicarboxylic acid, 1,10-phenanthroline-2,9-dicarboxylic acid, 1,4,5,6-tetrahydro- 5,6-dioxo-2,3-pyrazine-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-dimethoxy-2,5-furan-dicarboxylic acid, 2-ethyl-4,5-imidazole-dicarboxylic acid, 2 -propyl-1H-imidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 4-phenyl-2,5-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid as, 4,5-pyridazine-dicarboxylic acid, 1,4,5,8-tetrahydro-1,4:5,8-diepoxynaphthalene-4a,8a-dicarboxylic acid, 5,5-dioxide -2,8-dibenzothiophene-dicarboxylic acid, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2,3-dicarboxylic acid 2,3-dihydro-1H-pyrrolizine-1,7-dicarboxylic acid, 6-methyl- 2,4,5-pyridine-tricarboxylic acid, pyrrolo[2,1,5-cd]indolizine-5,6-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-bis(2,2,3,3,4, 4,4-heptafluorobutyl)-1H-pyrrole-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 6,7,9,10,17,18,20,21-octahydrodibenzo[b,k]-[1,4,7, 10,13,16]hexaoxacyclooc-tadecin-2,14-dicarboxylic acid, 6,7,9,10,17,18,20,21-octahydrodibenzo[b,k]-[1,4,7,10 ,13,16]hexaoxacyclooc-tadecin-2,13-dicarboxylic acid, 2-methyl-3,4-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 4,7-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 3,5-isoxazole- dicarboxylic acid, 2-(trifluoromethyl)-3,4-furan-dicarboxylic acid, 5-(trifluoromethyl)-2,4-furan-dicarboxylic acid, 6-methyl-2,4-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid , 5-oxo-1,2-pyrrolidine-dicarboxyl acid ic, 5-ethyl-2,3-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 1,2-dihydro-2-oxo-3,4-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 4,6-phenoxathiine-dicarboxylic acid, l 10,10-dioxide 1,9-phenoxathiine-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-dihydro-2H-1,4-thiazine-3,5-dicarboxylic acid, 2,7-di(tert-butyl )-9,9-dimethyl-4,5-xanthene-dicarboxylic acid, 6-methyl-2,3-quinoxaline-dicarboxylic acid, 3,7-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-quinoline acid -dicarboxylic acid, 2-methyl-6-phenyl-3,4-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-dimethylthieno[2,3-b]thiophene-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 3, 4-dimethoxythiophene-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 5-methyl-3,4-isoxazole-dicarboxylic acid, 2,6-bis(aminocarbonyl)-3,5-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 3, 5-bis(aminocarbonyl)-2,6-pyrazine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 6-(1,1-dimethylethyl)-2-ethyl-3,4-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid , 3-methyl-5-phenyl-2,4-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 1,2-dihydro-2-oxo-6-phenyl-3,5-pyridine-d icarboxylic acid, 8-methyl-2,4-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 4-ethyl-2,6-dimethyl-3,5-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 5-(phenoxymethyl)-2,4 acid -furan-dicarboxylic acid, 5-(acetylamino)-3-methyl-2,4-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 2-(4-heptylphenyl)-4,8-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 2, 8-bis(4-heptylphenyl)pyrido[3,2-g]quinoline-4,6-dicarboxylic acid, 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-octahydro-2,8-dioxopyrido [3,2]-quinoline-3,7-dicarboxylic acid, 2,8-dimethylpyrido[3,2-g]quinoline-3,7-dicarboxylic acid, 5,6-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 6-ethyl-2-methyl-cinchomeronic acid, 2-methyl-6-propyl-cinchomeronic acid, 6-isopropyl-2-methyl-cinchomeronic acid, 6-tert-butyl-2-methyl-acid cinchomeronic acid, 1,4-dimethyl-7-oxabicyclo[2,2,1]heptane-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, 1,2-dihydro-2-oxo-3,8-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 1,2-dihydro-2-oxo-3,6-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 1,2-dihydro-2-oxo-3,7-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 3,7-dimethyl acid -2.8-diph enylpyrido[3,2-g]quinoline-4,6-dicarboxylic acid, 8-methyl-2,3-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 3-[[(1,1-dimethylethyl)amino]sulfonyl]- 2,5-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 4-(acetylamino)-2,3-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,6-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,4-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 1,4-pyran-2,6-dicarboxylic acid; (iii) ribaric acid, glucaric acid, xylaric acid, arabinaric acid, mannaric acid, idaric acid, altraric acid, L-glucaric acid, L-arabinaric acid, allaric acid, galactaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, D-glucaric acid, L-idaric acid, hexaric acid, 2,3-dihydroxybutanedioic acid, D- tartaric acid, D,L-tartaric acid, D-glucaric acid, tartaric acid, tetrahydroxy-succinic acid, 2-carboxy-2,3-dideoxy-D-manno-2-octulopyranosonic acid , methyl-3-deoxy-D-arabino-2-heptulopyranosaric acid, D-lyxo-2-heptulopyranosaric acid, 2,6-anhydro-L-glycero-L-galactoheptaric acid; (iv) 1,4,5,8-naphthalene-tetracarboxylic acid, 1,4-monoanhydride itaconic anhydride; (v) 1,4-dihydro-4-oxo-2,6-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,6-piperidine-dicarboxylic acid, 1H-pyrrole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 4 -amino-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, 1-methyl-1H-pyrazole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-piperidine-dicarboxylic acid, 1-methyl-1H-imidazole-4 acid, 5-dicarboxylic acid, 2,4-thiazolidine-dicarboxylic acid, 1-(phenylmethyl)-1H-imidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-6-oxo-2,3-piperidine acid -dicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-6-oxo-2,4-piperidine-dicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-6-oxo-2,3-piperidine-dicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-6- oxo[2S-(2,alpha.,4.beta.,5.alpha.)]-2,4-piperidine-dicarboxylic acid, (2S,4R)-2,4-pyrrolidine-dicarboxylic acid, (2S-cis)-2,4-pyrrolidine-dicarboxylic acid, 2-amino-1H-imidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-pyrrolidine-dicarboxylic acid, 4-amino-3 ,5-isothiazole-dicarboxylic acid, 1-methyl-1H-pyrazole-3,5-dicarboxylic acid, 7-(diethylamino)-2-oxo-2H-1-benzopyran-3,4-dicarboxylic acid , 3,4-diethyl-1H-pyrrole-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 1-phenyl-1H-pyrrole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, cis-2,3-piperazine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-piperazine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-piperazine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,6-piperazine-dicarboxylic acid, 2-amino-3,5-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 2-methylpyrrole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 4-(methylamino)-2,6-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 2-amino-6-methyl-3,4-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-2-methyl-3,4-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 2-amino-6-methyl-3,5-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-dimethylpyrrole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-dimethylpyrrole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2-amino-6-hydroxy-3,5-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,4-pyrrolidine-dicarboxylic acid, 1H- indole-2,4-dicarboxylic acid, 1H-indole-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, 1H-indole-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 5-phenyl-2,4-pyrrolidine-dicarboxylic acid, l 5-methyl-2,4-pyrrolidine-dicarboxylic acid, trans-2,4-azetidine-dica rboxylic acid, cis-2,4-azetidine-dicarboxylic acid, 3,5-piperidine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-pyrrolidine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-azetidine-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-pyrrolidine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-dihydro-6H-1,4-dioxino[2,3-c]pyrrole-5,7-dicarboxylic acid, 1H-imidazole-2,4 acid -dicarboxylic acid, 1-butyl-1H-pyrrole-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, 3-amino-1-oxide-2,4-pyridine-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-dihydro-5- phenyl-1H-pyrrolizine-6,7-dicarboxylic acid, 3a,4,5,9b-tetrahydro-3H-cyclopenta[c]quinoline-4,6-dicarboxylic acid, 3a,4,5,9b- tetrahydro-3H-cyclopenta[c]quinoline-4,8-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-dihydro-1H-imidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-6-methyl-lutidine acid, 1H-indole-3,7-dicarboxylic acid, 3,3-dimethyl-2,6-piperidine-dicarboxylic acid, 1-butyl-2,5-pyrrolidine-dicarboxylic acid, 1H-indole- 4,6-dicarboxylic acid, 1-(phenylmethyl)-3,4-pyrrolidine-dicarboxylic acid, 3-(carboxymethyl)-1H-indole-2,6- dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-bis(2,2,2-trifluoroethyl)-1H-pyrrole-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 9-hexyl-9H-carbazole-3,6-dicarboxylic acid, 3-Methyl-5-(1-piperazinylsulfonyl)-2,4-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3,4,9-tetrahydro-1H-carbazole-5,7-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3- dimethyl-1H-indole-4,6-dicarboxylic acid, 7-amino-1,4-dihydro-4-oxo-3,6-quinoline-dicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-3-methyl-2 acid, 4-thiophene-dicarboxylic acid, (m-tolylimino)-diacetic acid, (o-tolylimino)-diacetic acid, D-cystathionine phenethylimino-diacetic acid, 2-benzyl-2,2'- imino-diacetic, L-.alpha.-glutamyl-L-alanyl-L-alanine, N,N'-dibenzylethylenediamine-diacetic acid, N-L-.gamma.-glutamyl-D-alanine, glycyl-L -glutamylglycine, N-(carboxymethyl)-N-(tetrahydro-1,1-dioxido-3-thienyl)glycine, N-(2-carboxyethyl)-N-phenyl-beta-alanine, N-(carboxymethyl) -N-octylglycine, N-(tert-butoxycarbonyl)imino-diacetic acid, N-(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine, N-(6-aminohexyl) -N-(carboxymethyl)glycine N-(carboxymethyl)-N-tetradecylglycine, N-(1-carboxyethyl)-D-alanine, N-(carboxymethyl)-D-alanine decylimino-diacetic acid, 3 ,3'-(dimethylhydrazono)bis-propanoic acid, N-(carboxymethyl)-N-[2-(2,6-dioxo-4-morpholinyl)ethyl]glycine, N-alpha-aspartylglycine, N-beta- aspartylglycine, N-L-alpha-aspartyl-beta-alanine, 3,4-xylylamino-N,N-diacetic acid, N-(1-carboxyethyl)alanine, N-(carboxymethyl)alanine, N,N '-methylenebis-glycine, N-(aminomethyl)-N-(carboxymethyl)glycine, N-(aminomethyl)-N-(carboxymethyl)glycine, 2,2'-(methylhydrazono)bis-acetic acid, N-(2-carboxyethyl)-N-(4-methylphenyl)-beta-alanine, N-(2-carboxyethyl)-N-(3-methylphenyl)-beta-alanine, 3-[(carboxymethyl)amino]alanine , D-alpha-aspartyl-D-alanine, N-(2-carboxyethyl)-N-(1-oxohexadecyl)-beta-alanine, N-(2-carboxyethyl)-N-(1-oxodecyl)-beta -alanine, N-(2-carboxyethyl)-N-(1-oxotetradecyl)-beta-alanine amino[(carboxymethyl)thio]acetic acid, l e N,N'-1,6-hexanediylbis-beta-alanine, N-(carboxymethyl)-N-phenyl-beta-alanine, N-(1-carboxyethyl)-L-alanine, L-glutamic acid and L-aspartic acid.

Amino acids

Amino acids are well known. An “amino acid” is any organic compound that has both an amino group and a carboxylic acid group. In some cases, said one or more amino acid(s) is (are) N-acylated amino acids. The amino acid can be any of the amino acids known in the art. N-acylated amino acids correspond to the formula:

wherein R can be hydrogen, alkyl (substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain), or a combination of alkyl and aromatic groups. A list of possible amino acid side chains known in the art is described in Stryer, Biochemistry, 1981, published by WH Freeman and Company, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. R ¹ can be C1 to C30 alkyl, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted; substituted or unsubstituted aromatic groups; or mixtures thereof.

In some instances, the N-acylated amino acid compound is selected from the group consisting of N-acylated phenylalanine and N-acylated tyrosine. The amino acid can be the D or L isomer or a mixture thereof. N-acylated phenylalanine corresponds to the following formula:

wherein R ¹ can be C1 to C30 alkyl, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted; substituted or unsubstituted aromatic groups; or mixtures thereof. N-acylated tyrosine corresponds to the following formula:

in which R ¹ can be C1 to C30 alkyls, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted.

Cationic conditioning compounds (optional)

The cationic conditioning agent can be used in the compositions of the present invention, and if present, they are preferably selected from one or more monoalkyl quaternary amine(s), such as the chloride stearyltrimonium, soyatrimonium chloride or coco-ethyldimonium ethosulfate. Other suitable cationic conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, behentrimonium chloride, dialkyl quaternary amines, such as dicetyldimonium chloride, dicocodimethyl ammonium chloride or distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride; as well as polyquaternium compounds, such as polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-22 or polyquaternium-5.

For example, cationic conditioning agents can be selected from polyquaternium-10 (also called quaternized polyhydroxyethyl cellulose), cetrimonium chloride (also called cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, CTAC), behentrimonium chloride (also known as docosyl trimethyl ammonium chloride), behentrimonium methosulfate, steartrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, steartrimonium, babassuamidopropalkonium chloride, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, quaternium-91, salcare/PQ-37, quaternium-22, quaternium-87, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-67, amodimethicone, lauryl betaine, cross-linked polymer of polyacrylate-1, hydroxyp steardimonium wheat protein hydrolyzed ropyl, behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl lauryldimonium soy protein, aminopropyl dimethicone, quaternium-8 and dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimethicone PEG-7 phosphate.

In some cases, the cationic conditioning agents are cationic conditioning polymers. Examples of cationic conditioning polymers that can be used include, without limitation, cationic cellulose, cationic proteins, and cationic polymers. The cationic polymers can have a vinyl group structure of amine and/or quaternary ammonium monomers. Amino cationic and quaternary ammonium monomers include, without limitation, dialkylamino alkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryoloxyalkyl ammonium salts, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salts, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts , vinyl compounds substituted with dialkyl aminoalkyl acrylate and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, or quaternized pyrrolidine. Other examples of cationic conditioning polymers that may be used include, without limitation, hydroxypropyltrimonium honey, cocodimonium silk amino acids, hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl cocodimonium wheat or silk protein, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-10, and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

In some instances, quaternized polymeric cationic conditioning agents are particularly useful. Particularly preferred are quaternary nitrogen polymers prepared by the polymerization of a dialkyldiallylammonium salt or copolymer thereof in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to about 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably when the alkyl group is methyl or ethyl. Details relating to the preparation of these polymers are available in US Patent Nos. 3,288,770, 3,412,019 and 4,772,462, incorporated herein by reference. For example, cationic homopolymers and copolymers of polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride are available as aqueous compositions sold under the trademark MERQUAT by Calgon Corporation, a subsidiary of Merck & Co., Pittsburgh, Pa. The homopolymer, which is called polyquaternium- 6 in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, ^3rd Edition, published in 1982 by the Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfume Association, Inc. (hereinafter referred to as CTFA Dictionary and CTFA name), is sold under the trademark MERQUAT-100, and is described as having a weight average molecular weight of approximately 100,000, a copolymer reaction product of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride with acrylamide monomers is referred to as polyquaternium-7 in the CTFA dictionary and is described as having a weight average molecular weight of approximately 500,000 and is sold under the trademark MERQUAT-550, A chloride copolymer reaction product of dimethyldiallylammonium with acrylic acids having a weight average molecular weight of about 50,000 to about 10,000,000 is called CTFA polyquaternium-22 and is sold under the trademark MERQUAT-280. Polyquaternium-6 is particularly preferred.

Other polymeric conditioners include cationic copolymers of methylvinylimidazolium chloride and vinyl pyrrolidone, commercially available from BASF Aktiengesellschaft, West Germany, under the trademark LUVIQUAT with three comonomer ratios, namely the ratios of 95 /5, 50/50 and 30/70 from methylvinylimidazolium chloride to polyvinylpyrrolidone. These copolymers, at each of the three comonomer ratios, are designated CTFA polyquaternium 16. Polymeric conditioners also include cationic cellulosic polymers of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with epichlorohydrin and quaternized with trimethylamine, and are sold under the trademark POLYMER JR with different viscosity levels and different molecular sizes by Union Carbide Corporation, Danbury, Conn. These series of polymers are called polyquaternium 10 in the CTFA dictionary. Also useful are the quaternized copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose chloride and dimethyldimethylammonium, which bear the CTFA name polyquaternium-4 and which are sold in various molecular weights under the trademark CELQUAT by National Starch and Chemical Corporation, Bridgeeau, N.J.

Smaller molecule cationic non-polymer conditioning agents can also be used herein. Examples of small molecule conditioning agents can include monofunctional or difunctional quaternary ammonium compounds, such as stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, dimethyldi-(hydrogenated tallow)ammonium chloride, and the like. Non-polymeric conditioning agents may also include quaternary ammonium salts of gluconamide derivatives, such as gamma-gluconamidopropyldimethyl-2-hydroxyethyl-ammonium chloride and minkamidopropyldimethyl-2-hydroxyethylammonium chloride identified respectively by the CTFA names quaternium 22 and quaternium 26. Details for the preparation of these materials are available in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,766,267 and 4,012,398, respectively, and the materials are sold under the trademark CERAPHYL by Van Dyk & Co., Belleville, N.J. Also useful are dimer bis-quaternary ammonium compounds, such as 2-hydroxy propylene-bis-1,3-dimethylstearyl ammonium chloride, whose CTFA name is hydroxypropyl bisstearyldimonium chloride. The preparation of these and other bis-quaternary materials is described in US Patent Number 4,734,277, and these materials are sold under the trademark JORDAQUAT DIMER by Jordan Chemical Company, Folcroft, Pa.

Examples of non-quaternized polymers having tertiary amino nitrogen groups that are quaternized when protonated can include water-soluble proteinaceous quaternary ammonium compounds. Cocodimonium hydrolyzed animal protein, for example, is the CTFA name for a chemically modified quaternary ammonium derivative of a hydrolyzed collagen protein comprising from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms in at least one aliphatic alkyl group, a weight average molecular weight of about 2500 to about 12000, and an isionic point within a range of about 9.5 to about 11.5. This material and others structurally related are sold under the trademarks CROQUAT and CROTEIN by Croda, Inc., New York, N.Y.

In certain aspects, the compositions according to the invention do not contain polymeric conditioners.

Decolorizing agents

Decolorizing agents can be selected from, for example, peroxides, persulfates, perborates percarbonates, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygen salts or a mixture thereof. Decolorizing agents which may also be used include at least one redox enzyme such as laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricase, when appropriate in the presence of their respective donor or cofactor. Oxygen present in the air can also be used as an oxidizing agent.

In some cases, the bleaching agent is a persulfate and/or a monopersulfate such as, for example, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, as well as mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the oxidizing agents in the present disclosure are selected from hydrogen peroxide, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Developer

The hair lightening compositions of the present disclosure can be combined with a developer composition. A developer composition is typically an aqueous composition that contains one or more oxidizing agent(s), such as a peroxide. Non-limiting examples of oxidizing agents include those that are water soluble, such as peroxygen oxidizing agents. The oxidizing agent can be selected from water-soluble oxidizing agents which are inorganic peroxygen materials capable of generating hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution.

The oxidizing agents can be supplied in the form of an aqueous solution or a powder which is dissolved before use. Water-soluble oxidizing agents include hydrogen peroxide, inorganic alkali metal peroxides such as sodium peroxide, organic peroxides such as urea peroxide, melamine peroxide, and base bleaching compounds. inorganic perhydrate salts, such as the alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates, persulfates and the like. These inorganic perhydrate salts can be incorporated as monohydrates, tetrahydrates etc. Alkyl and aryl peroxides, and/or peroxidases can also be used. Mixtures of two or more of these oxidizing agents can also be used if desired. In some cases, hydrogen peroxide, percarbonates, persulfates and combinations thereof are used in developer compositions.

The oxidizing agent can comprise from about 0.1% to about 40% by weight, from about 1% to about 30% by weight, or from about 2% to about 30% by weight of the developer composition. Another potential oxidizing agent for use herein is a source of peroxymonocarbonate ions. Preferably such a source is formed on site from a source of hydrogen peroxide and a source of hydrogen carbonate ions. This system is particularly effective in combination with a source of ammonia or ammonium ions. Therefore, any source of these peroxymonocarbonate ions can be used. Suitable sources for use herein include sodium, potassium, guanidine, arginine, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium carbonate salts, carbamate and hydrocarbonate ions as well as mixtures thereof. ci such as sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogencarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium hydrogencarbonate, guanidine carbonate, guanidine hydrogencarbonate, lithium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate , barium carbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate and mixtures thereof. Percarbonate salts can also be used to serve as both a source of carbonate ions and an oxidizing agent. Non-limiting examples of carbonate ions, carbamate and hydrocarbonate ions are sodium hydrogencarbonate, potassium hydrogencarbonate, ammonium carbamate as well as mixtures thereof.

Oils

Said one or more oil(s) typically comprise those generally used in cosmetic products and originating in particular from oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons, optionally branched fatty acids and/or or unsaturated, optionally branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohols, fatty acids and/or mono- and/or polyester fatty alcohols, perfluorinated and/or organofluorinated oils, volatile or non-volatile silicone oils -volatiles, fluorosilicone oils and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of oils include oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soybeans, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor seed oil, jojoba seed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, nut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, shea butter and mixtures thereof.

As examples of linear or branched hydrocarbons, we can cite oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petrolatum, mineral oils, (mixtures of hydrocarbon oils derived from oil ), polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene or also linear, branched and/or cyclic alkanes which are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of optionally branched and/or unsaturated fatty acids, we can cite myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

As examples of optionally branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohols, we can cite cetanol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

As examples of esters, monoesters or polyesters of fatty acids, we can cite the linear or branched fatty chain which comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and of fatty alcohols, the fatty chain which comprises from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of acidic benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, C ₅ -C ₉ dipentaerythrityl esters, polyesters trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol polyesters and hydrogenated castor oil polyesters.

We can also cite oils from the group comprising isononyl isononanoate, stearyl octanoate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2 -ethylhexyl, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate, glyceryl triisostearate or diglyceryl triisostearate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate (Ceraphyle), cetearyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl tricaprate/caprylate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, benzoates C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate, bis-diglyceryl-2 polyacyladipate, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate and mixtures of and these.

Examples of volatile silicone oils include hexamethyldisiloxanes, dimethicones with a viscosity between 0.65 and 5 mm ² /s, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

As examples of non-volatile silicone oils, we can cite non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups or alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups at the end of the silicone chain, these groups comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, such as those of the phenyl trimethicone type, those of the phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate type or those of the trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane type; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₀ fatty acids, fatty alcohols, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, or polyoxyalkylenes (in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene); amino polysiloxanes; polysiloxanes comprising a hydroxyl group and mixtures thereof.

As fluoro silicone oils, we can cite fluorinated polysiloxanes comprising a pendent fluorinated group or a fluorinated group at the end of the silicone chain which comprises from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, some or all of which are hydrogen atoms. are replaced by fluorine atoms, such as perfluorenonyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

Thickening agents

The compositions may contain one or more thickening agent(s) or viscosity modifying agent(s). Classes of such agents include, but are not limited to, viscous liquids, such as polyethylene glycol, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulosic derivatives, synthetic polymers such as carbomers, poloxamers, and polyethyleneimines ( for example, PEI-10), polymers of natural origin, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (for example, sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan, petrolatum, waxes, related particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide and microcrystalline cellulose, surfactants, such as PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, emulsifiers, such as disteareth- 75 IPDI, and salts, such as sodium chloride, as well as combinations thereof.

Dyes

Before, after, or simultaneously with the hair lightening composition, a color changing composition can be used. For example, the color changing composition can be formed by combining a hair lightening composition according to the present disclosure, a developer composition (typically containing hydrogen peroxide) and a colorant. Typically, the coloring compositions of the present disclosure comprise at least one coloring compound which is selected from oxidative dye precursors, direct dyes, pigments as well as mixtures thereof. The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more coupler(s). By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, outho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases as well as the addition salts thereof. .

We can cite for example the following para-phenylenediamines: para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N -dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(. beta.-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-.beta.-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(.beta.-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N -dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(. beta.,.gamma.-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-.beta.-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-.beta.-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(.beta.-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-.beta.-hydroxyethylamino -5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine as well as the addition salts thereof with an acid.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-.beta.-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-.beta.-hydroxyethyloxy -para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl )-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-.beta.-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine as well as the addition salts thereof with an acid are particularly preferred.

Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which can be mentioned, we can cite for example N,N'-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropano -1,N,N'-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis (.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis (4'-Amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane as well as addition salts thereof.

Among the para-aminophenols which may be mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(.beta.-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino -2-fluorophenol as well as the addition salts thereof with an acid.

Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol as well as the addition salts of those -this.

Among the heterocyclic bases which may be mentioned are, for example, pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

As derivatives of pyridine we can cite compounds such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine as well as the addition salts thereof. Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present disclosure are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application number FR 2 801 308. Examples which may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4 -diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5 -yl)(2-hydroxyethyl l)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol , 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2 -.quadrature.-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine as well as addition salts thereof.

More particularly, oxidation bases which are useful in the present disclosure are selected from 3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and preferably substituted with a carbon atom 2 by:

(a) an amino group (di)(C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl) in which said alkyl group may be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino or imidazolium group;

(b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing a chain of 5 to 7 members, and of 1 to 3 heteroatoms, potentially cationic, potentially substituted by one or more (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl, such as di(C1-C4)alkylpiperazinium; Or

(c) a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkoxy potentially substituted by one or more hydroxy group(s) such as .quadrature.-hydroxyalkoxy as well as the addition salts thereof.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are 2,4,5,6-tetraminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4- dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine as well as their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists

As pyrazole derivatives, we can cite compounds such as 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diamino-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-Methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl- 1-Methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl- 3-Methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-Methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3- dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(.beta.-hydroxylated thyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole as well as the addition salts thereof. 4,5-diamino-1-(.beta.-methoxyethyl)pyrazole can also be used.

Derivative pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones such as the following compounds and addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-Amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7 -dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-oe, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino -1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino -3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H ,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1- one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)- 1.2 -diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one. 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a salt thereof will preferably be used. 4,5-diamino-1-(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and /or a salt thereof will preferably be used as the heterocyclic base.

A composition according to the present disclosure may optionally comprise one or more coupler(s) advantageously chosen from those which are conventionally used for dyeing or coloring keratin fibres.

Among these couplers, we can mention in particular meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, couplers based on naphthalene and heterocyclic couplers as well as the addition salts thereof.

We can cite, for example, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-o- cresol (3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol), 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-benzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4 -diamino-1-(.beta.-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(.beta.-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4 -diamino-phenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylamino-benzene, sesamol, 1-.beta.-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylene-dioxybenzene, .alpha.-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2 ,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylene-dioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(J-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxy-indoline, 2, 6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-m ethylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethyl-pyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4- triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, the acid addition salts thereof as well as mixtures thereof.

In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and of the couplers which can be used in the context of the disclosure are in particular selected from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

The oxidation base(s) each advantageously represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the compositions of the this disclosure.

The coupler(s), if present, each advantageously represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the weight total of the compositions of the present disclosure.

The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise b) one or more synthetic or natural direct dye(s), chosen from anionic and nonionic species, preferably cationic or non-cationic species ionic, either as dyes alone or in addition to one or more oxidation dye(s).

Examples of suitable direct dyes that we can cite include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine type dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethanes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes as well as direct natural dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.

Many direct dyes are cationic direct dyes. We can cite the hydrazono cationic dyes of the formulas (Va) and (V'a), azo cationic dyes (VIa) and (VI'a) and diazo cationic dyes (VIIa) below:

Het ⁺ -C(R ^To )=N-N(R ^b )-Ar, An ^- (Goes) Het ⁺ -N(R ^To )-N=C(R ^b )-Ar, An ^- (Goes) Het ⁺ -N=N-Ar, An ^- (Via) Ar ⁺ -N=N-Ar’’, An ^- (VI'a) and Het ⁺ -N=N-Ar'-N=N-Ar, An ^- (VIIa)

formulas (Va), (V'a) , (VIa) , (VI'a) and (VIIa) in which

- Het ⁺ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially with one or more alkyl group(s) (C ₁ - C ₈ ) such as methyl;

- Ar ⁺ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, in particular tri(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylammonium such as trimethylammonium;

- Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferably with one or more electron donor group(s) such as i) optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl, ii) optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy, iii) optionally substituted (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl)amino on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylamino, v) optionally substituted N-(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl-N-aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylamino or alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group;

- Ar' is an optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene group such as phenylene, in particular para-phenylene, or naphthalene, which are optionally substituted, preferably with one or more group(s) (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl, hydroxyl or (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy

- Ar'' is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferably with one or more (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)( C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl)amino, (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy or phenyl;

- R ^a and R ^b , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferably with a hydroxyl group;

- or alternatively the substituent R ^a with a substituent from Het ⁺ and/or R _b with a substituent from Ar and/or R ^a with R _b form, together with the atoms which carry them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl;

- in particular, R ^a and R _b represent a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group, which is optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;

- An ^- represents an anionic counterion such as mesylate or a halide. We can cite in particular the azo and hydrazono cationic dyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge of the formulas (Va), (V'a) and (VIa) as defined above. More particularly those of formulas (Va), (V'a) and (VIa) derived from the dyes described in patent applications numbers WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

In some cases, the cationic part is derived from the following derivatives:

, ^Year- (Go-1) , ^Year- (VIa-1)

formulas (Va-1) and (VIa-1) in which:

- R ¹ represents an alkyl group (C ₁ -C ₄ ) such as methyl;

- R ² and R ³ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C ₁ -C ₄ ), such as methyl; And

- R ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom or an electron donating group such as the optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl, optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy, or optionally substituted (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl)amino on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; in particular, R ⁴ is a hydrogen atom,

- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH;

- An ^- represents an anionic counterion such as mesylate or a halide.

In particular, the dye of formulas (Va-1) and (VIa-1) is chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof:

Basic Red 51

Basic Orange 31

Basic Yellow 87

Among the direct natural dyes which can be used according to the disclosure, we can cite lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, l isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts can also be used.

When they are present, the direct dye(s) represent(s) more particularly from 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the compositions of the this disclosure.

Conservatives

One or more preservative(s) may be included in the compositions described herein for treating the hair. Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, compounds containing glycerin (eg, glycerin or ethylhexylglycerin or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzoate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate and/or grapefruit seed extract or combinations thereof. Several preservatives may be provided in the composition. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetics industry and include salicylic acid, DMDM, hydantoin, formaldehyde, chlorphenamine, triclosan, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sorbic acid, methylisothiazolinone , sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid, quaternium-15, stearalkonium chloride, zinc pyrithione, sodium metabisulfite, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane, chlorhexidine digluconate, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzalkonium chloride, sodium sulfite, sodium salicylate, citric acid, neem oil, essential oils (various), lactic acid, and vitamin E (tocopherol).

The preservative is optionally provided in an amount in the range of about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight, about 0.15% to about 1% by weight, or about 1% by weight to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Appropriate components, such as those listed above, are included in or excluded from hair care formulations depending on the specific combination of the other components, the form of the compositions and/or the use of the formulation ( for example, hair spray, cream, conditioner, etc.).

Shapes

The compositions described herein can be in any suitable physical form. Suitable forms include, but are not limited to, low to moderate viscosity liquids, lotions, milks, foams, sprays, gels, creams, conditioners and the like, as well as powders.

i. Sprayer

The compositions described here for treating the hair can be in the form of a spray. The sprayer typically comprises the composition which contains said one or more lactone(s) and a cosmetically acceptable carrier. In some embodiments, the carrier is water or a mixture of water and alcohol. The spray formulation optionally contains an antioxidant, sunscreen agent, vitamin, protein, peptide, plant extract, humectant, oil, emollient, lubricant, thickener, skin conditioner hair, a polymer and/or a surfactant. Preferably, the spray formulation includes a preservative. In some embodiments, the formulation includes a fragrance. In some instances, the compositions described herein include a surfactant. In some cases, the compositions described herein contain water, a perfume, a preservative and one or more lactone(s). In some cases, the composition containing one or more lactone(s) contains water, a preservative, a perfume, said one or more lactone(s) and an antistatic agent. In some cases, the compositions described herein contain water, a preservative, a perfume, said one or more lactone(s) and a hair conditioning agent. In some cases, the compositions described herein contain water, a preservative, a perfume, said one or more lactone(s) and a surfactant.

Hair spray formulations can be dispensed from containers which include aerosol dispensers or pump spray dispensers. Such dispensers are known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of manufacturers.

When the hair spray formulation is dispensed from a pressurized aerosol container, a propellant may be used to force the composition out of the container. Suitable propellants include, but are not limited to, liquefiable gas or halogenated propellant. Examples of suitable propellants include dimethyl ether or hydrocarbon based propellants such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, CFC and CFC replacement propellants. The propellants can be used alone or in the form of mixtures.

The amount of propellant can range from about 10% to about 60% by weight of the formulation. The propellant can be separated from the hair repair formulation for example by using a two compartment container. Other suitable aerosol dispensers are those characterized by the propellant being compressed air, which may be introduced into the dispenser using a pump or equivalent device prior to use. Conventional non-aerosol pump spray dispensers, i.e., atomizers, can also be used to apply the hair strengthening formulation to the hair.

ii. Conditioners

The compositions disclosed herein for the treatment of hair may be in the form of a conditioner. The conditioner typically comprises the composition containing said one or more lactone(s) in a suitable carrier. Further, the conditioner may include cationic polymers derived from polysaccharides, for example cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar derivatives and cationic locust bean gum derivatives, synthetic cationic polymers, and mixtures or combinations of these agents. The formulation may include other synthetic or natural polymers or polymers derived from biological preparation processes, which are functionalized, where appropriate, for example with cationic or neutral groups. These polymers can have a stabilizing or reinforcing action on the compositions and/or a conditioning action (deposit on the surface of the skin or the hair).

iii. Creams

The compositions disclosed herein for the treatment of hair may be in the form of a cream. The cream typically contains one or more lactone(s) in a suitable carrier. Said one or more lacatone(s) may be provided in any suitable concentration. A typical concentration of said one or more lactone(s) in the cream is in the range of small amounts such as approximately about 0.01% (by weight), at least 0.1% (by weight), in large amounts, such as up to about 50% (by weight).

The implementation of this disclosure is accomplished by means of the following examples. The examples serve to illustrate the technology without being of any limiting nature. The following examples have a non-restrictive and explanatory purpose only, the scope of the invention being defined by the claims.

The amounts/concentrations of ingredients in the treatment compositions/formulas described below, unless otherwise indicated, are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition/formula comprising the antioxidant composition and the component of discoloration of the color change system.

Examples

The composition may here be in the form of an additive suitable for being added to a bleaching composition (Example A below). Alternatively, the composition may be an integrated composition in which the composition according to the invention is premixed with a bleaching composition (examples B and C below).

Example: Examples A to C: Formulations according to the invention (integrated) with bleaching agent composition

US INCI Example A Example B Example C Citric acid 3.6 3.6 3.6 wisteria 0.6 0.6 0.6 Scutellaria Baicalensis root extract 0.7 0.3 0.1 Charge - - - Magnesium carbonate hydroxide 9.0 9.0 9.0 sodium silicate 17 17 17 Disodium EDTA ~1 ~1 ~1 sodium metasilicate 2.4 2.4 2.4 Surfactants ≥ 10 ≥ 10 ≥ 10 Potassium persulfate 50 50 50 Ammonium persulfate 5.0 5.0 5.0 Additives / Optional Ingredients* ≥ 4.0 ≥ 4.0 ≥ 4.0

*meaning one or more ingredient(s) among vitamins, proteins or hydrolyzed proteins, preservatives, salts, oils, thickeners, conditioning agents, plant extracts, derivatives plant extracts, perfumes, antistatic agents, etc.

Example: Example D: Comparative formulation with bleaching agent composition

US INCI Example D Citric acid 3.6 wisteria 0.6 Scutellaria Baicalensis root extract - Charge - Magnesium carbonate hydroxide 9.0 sodium silicate 17 Disodium EDTA ~1 sodium metasilicate 2.4 Surfactants ≥ 0.8 Potassium persulfate 50 Ammonium persulfate 5.0 Additives / Optional Ingredients* ≥ 4.0

*meaning one or more ingredient(s) among vitamins, proteins or hydrolyzed proteins, preservatives, salts, oils, thickeners, conditioning agents, plant extracts, derivatives plant extracts, perfumes, antistatic agents, etc.

US INCI 30V developer 40V developer pentasodium pentetate 0.15 0.15 Hydrogen peroxide 18 24 sodium stannate 0.04 0.04 Phosphoric acid - - Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.02 0.02 Water 77.59 71.59 Glycerin 0.5 0.5 Trideceth-2-Carboxamide Mea 0.85 0.85 Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth 2.85 2.85

The inventive and comparative formulas (Tables 1 and 2) were mixed with the bleaching composition (powder bleaching agent) and the bleaching developer (30V or 40V) according to the amounts by weight indicated in Table 3.

The hair lightening compositions of Examples A to D were mixed with 40V developer compositions (including hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:2 (hair lightening composition: developer composition) and used to treat hair. The hair was then subjected to an analysis for cysteic acid, which is a measurement that indicates the degree of hair damage.

The bleach mixtures of Examples A through D were applied to regular bleach samples obtained from International Hair Import Products, for over 50 minutes based on achieving equivalent lift compared to the reference. The samples are rinsed and washed once before being dried.

Cysteic acid analysis measurements were taken, showing the degree of hair damage. Extensive studies of the influence of cysteine content on the denaturation of alpha helices in keratin have shown, for example, that the melting temperature (transition temperature) of keratin increases linearly with cysteine content. The increased stability of the matrix region attributable to the relatively high degree of cross-linking from the high proportion of disulfide bridges in the matrix indicates that the transition of the helices incorporated into this matrix is rendered difficult and, therefore, an increase in the melting temperature. Conversely, a reduction in melting point and, above all, in the enthalpy of fusion can generally be observed in chemically treated hair.

The modulus of elasticity (Young's modulus) and the breaking stress were also measured in order to characterize the hair and the degree of hair damage. The modulus of elasticity is a measure of the spring-like structure of hair (elasticity). A higher modulus of elasticity indicates that the hair is more elastic (less brittle). Breaking stress represents the force per unit area required to break the hair fiber. A higher breaking stress means a stronger and stiffer hair fiber.

A differential scanning calorimeter (DCS) is a tool that can also be useful for studying the structural characteristics of hair fibers. Keratin undergoes detectable transformations at different temperatures. Variations in these transformation temperatures can be used to estimate how a particular hair treatment may impact hair fibers. In the present case, a DSC was used to measure the denaturation temperature (T _d ). The denaturation temperature (T _d ) has been used as a proxy for the thermal stability of hair fibers, which is influenced, at least in part, by the cross-linking density of the matrix (intermediate filament-associated proteins, IFAPs). Thermal stability (T _d ) and its relationship in determining the thermal stability of hair fibers is established in the literature.

Results: The system was evaluated using Miniature Tensile Testing (MTT) to measure the impact of discoloration on tensile strength and modulus of elasticity. Amino acid analysis (AAA) was performed on bleached hair fibers to measure the formation of citric acid, which indicates the amount of broken cysteine bonds. The cosmetic attributes of the hair have been evaluated by professional stylists during piece testing. Stability was assessed based on a standard procedure. The results for the cysteic acid test, the modulus of elasticity, the breaking stress and the DSC for hair treated with the hair lightening compositions for examples A to C demonstrated a significant improvement with respect to the test. cysteic acid, modulus of elasticity, breaking stress and DSC for hair treated with the lightening compositions for hair compared to those treated in Example D. The combination of baicalin/citric acid/glycine provides a decisive advantage for fiber integrity during hair bleaching, resulting in better tensile strength, higher modulus of elasticity and reduced citric acid formation compared to the same bleaching agent without the active ingredients. It was further found that the samples of Examples A to C were characterized by long lasting softness and combability of the hair after bleaching. The active ingredients of examples A to C remain stable in a room at 45°C, without forming agglomerates when they are mixed or incorporated into the bleaching agent. Examples A through C were evaluated by MTT and AAA methods and in salon testing. Compared to Example D, Examples A through C were found to have better tensile strength, higher modulus of elasticity and less presence of cysteic acid. In salon testing, the formula of Examples A through C was found to impart attributes of softness and combability to the hair of the volunteers being tested.

The above description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Further, the disclosure only shows and describes the preferred embodiments, but, as mentioned above, it should be understood that it may be used in various other combinations, variations and environments and may subject to change or modification within the scope of the concepts of the invention as expressed herein, consistent with the above teachings and/or skill or knowledge of the relevant art . The embodiments described above are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in these or other embodiments. and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. Likewise, the appended claims should be construed to include alternative embodiments.

As used herein, the terms “comprising,” “presenting” and “containing” are used in their open, non-limiting sense.

The terms “a,” “une,” and “the” are to be understood to include the plural as well as the singular.

The term “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term “antioxidant” refers to a chemical compound, enzyme or other organic molecule that prevents free radicals from causing the oxidation of molecules that are present in keratinous materials. The antioxidant, by reacting with the oxidant, protects these molecules against any damage. Examples of antioxidants include, without limitation, polyphenols, vitamins A, C, E, carotenoids and certain minerals. In some specific examples, the antioxidants include ascorbic acid, dihydrochalone, zinc PCA, baicalin, ferulic acid, pine bark extract, polydatin and ellagic acid.

Other than in the working examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers which express quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions shall be understood to be modifiable in all cases by the term “approximately,” which means ± 5% of the number indicated.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

The term "keratinous substrates" as used herein means, but is not limited to, keratin fibers such as the hair and/or scalp on the head of a human being.

The term "conditioning", as used herein, designates the fact of conferring on one or more hair fibre(s) at least one property which is chosen from among the ability to comb, the power of retention of moisture, luster, shine and softness. Conditioning status can be assessed by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring and comparing the combability of treated and untreated hair in terms of combing work ( gm-in) and consumer perception.

The term "treating" (and its grammatical variants), as used herein, refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure to the surface of keratinous substrates such as hair. The term "treating" (and its grammatical variants), as used herein, also refers to contacting keratinous substrates such as hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.

A "rinse out" product designates a composition such as a hair care composition which is rinsed out and/or washed out with water either after or during the application of the composition to the keratinous substrate, and before drying and/or or capping said keratinous substrate. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the keratinous substrate during rinsing and/or washing

The term “stable”, as used herein, indicates that the composition exhibits no phase separation and/or crystallization.

The term "volatile", as used herein, means a flash point below about 100°C.

The term "non-volatile" as used herein means a flash point above about 100°C.

As indicated herein, all ranges should be understood to include all specific ranges and combinations of sub-ranges within the indicated ranges. So a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. .

The term "substantially free" or "essentially free", as used herein, means less than about 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than about 1 wt%, less than about 0.5 wt%, less than about 0.1 wt%, or none of the specified material.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are hereby incorporated by reference and for all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application had been specifically and individually indicated as being incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, this disclosure prevails.

Claims (10)

Hair treatment composition, containing:
(a) one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof;
(b) one or more amino acid(s) and/or a salt thereof; And
(c) one or more antioxidant(s) comprising an aromatic ring having two alcohol functional groups. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, containing one or more color changing component(s). A hair treatment composition according to claim 2, wherein said one or more color changing component(s) is (are) selected from one or more ingredient(s) of a bleaching agent; a developer; a dye selected from oxidative dye precursors and direct dyes; a bleaching agent and a developer; a dye selected from oxidative dye precursors and direct dyes and a developer; as well as mixtures thereof. A hair treatment composition according to claim 2, wherein the hair treatment composition and one or more color changing component(s) are premixed such that the hair treatment composition is incorporated into said one or more multiple color changing component(s). A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein said one or more antioxidant(s) comprises a flavonoid glycoside. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein said one or more antioxidant(s) comprises at least one polyphenol selected from baicalin, ferulic acid, pine bark extract, polydatin, ellagic acid and/or mixtures thereof. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) comprises dicarboxylic acids selected from maleic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, salt of these and/or a mixture thereof. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein said one or more amino acid(s) contains one or more aliphatic amino acid(s) selected from glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, a salt thereof as well as a mixture thereof. Hair lightening composition, containing:
(a) from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) selected from maleic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, salt of these, or a mixture thereof;
(b) from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more aliphatic amino acid(s) selected from glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, a salt thereof as well as a mixture thereof;
(c) from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more antioxidant(s) comprising an aromatic ring having two alcohol functional groups, optionally selected from baicalin;
(d) from about 10 to about 80% by weight of one or more persulfate(s) selected from the group comprising sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate as well as a mixture of these;
(e) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more oil(s);
(f) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more thickening agent(s);
(g) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more anionic surfactant(s); And
(h) from about 1 to about 40% by weight of one or more alkalizing agent(s);
wherein the % by weight is in all cases based on the total weight of the hair lightening composition. Kit, including:
i. a hair lightening composition, containing:
(a) said one or more polycarboxylic acid(s) and/or a salt thereof;
(b) said one or more amino acid(s) and/or a salt thereof;
(c) said one or more antioxidant(s) comprising an aromatic ring having two alcohol functional groups, optionally comprising baicalin;
(d) one or more bleaching agent(s);
ii. an aqueous developer composition containing one or more peroxide(s); And
iii. optionally, a third composition containing one or more hair conditioning agent(s) and/or one or more direct dye(s).