FR3097761A1 - Composition comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, an organic amine and a liquid fatty substance - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a preferably aqueous cosmetic composition comprising: - 12-hydroxystearic acid, - one or more organic amines, - one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa), and- optionally one or more dyes.

Description

Composition comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, an organic amine and a liquid fatty substance

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, one or more organic amines, one or more liquid fatty substances and optionally one or more colorants.

The invention also relates to a ready-to-use composition and a kit comprising said cosmetic composition, and a coloring/lightening process implementing said ready-to-use composition.

For a long time, many people have sought to change the color of their hair, and in particular to color it, for example, in order to hide their white hair.

To permanently color human keratin fibers, so-called permanent coloring methods, also called oxidation coloring, have been developed. They use dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, can give rise by a process of oxidative condensation to colored compounds.

It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diaminobenzenes, meta-aminophenols, meta- diphenol and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.

The second type of coloring is so-called semi-permanent coloring or direct coloring, which consists in applying direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules having an affinity for said fibers to the keratin fibers, leaving them to pause, then rinsing them.

In order to produce these dyes, the direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes, and natural dyes.

The compositions containing one or more direct dye(s) are applied to the keratin fibers for a time necessary to obtain the desired coloration, then rinsed. The resulting colorations are generally chromatic colorations, which are however temporary or semi-permanent because the nature of the interactions that bind the direct dyes to the keratin fiber, and their desorption from the surface and/or the core of the fiber are responsible for their lower dyeing power and their lower resistance to washing or perspiration.

To improve this direct staining, it has been proposed to use it as oxidation staining in the presence of oxidizing agents. This is called lightening direct coloring.

Coloring compositions are generally in the form of more or less fluid solutions, gels or creams. The qualities of use, as well as the stability of these compositions, however, remain to be improved. However, users of cosmetic products are looking for products that are pleasant to use, which spread well, and which rinse off easily.

Furthermore, after each type of coloring, the coloring compositions are generally rinsed out and the hair is then washed to remove the residues of coloring compositions still present. It is also often necessary to apply a care product to hair that has just been colored to improve its feel.

The Applicant has now discovered that a composition, preferably aqueous, comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, one or more organic amines and one or more liquid fatty substances, implemented during a coloring process, made it possible to obtaining a texture with good qualities of use, in particular in terms of ease of application and ease of rinsing, without risk of running, whether it is used alone, sequentially or mixed with an oxidizing composition.

Also, it rinses off very easily.

In addition, the hair treated with the composition according to the invention which comprises dyes has a touch equivalent to colored hair which has been treated with a conventional coloring composition then with a care composition such as a conditioner, in particular in terms of softness, suppleness and smooth touch.

In addition, the compositions according to the invention are stable over time.

By "stable over time", it is meant within the meaning of the present invention that the visual appearance and the viscosity of the compositions do not change, or substantially not (variation generally less than 10% with respect to the viscosity at T0), over time under standard or non-standard storage conditions, for example during the month or two months following their manufacture, at 4°C, at room temperature (25°C), at 45°C, and up to temperatures of 60°C. We also mean that the performance obtained does not change or does not change significantly following a period of storage of the formulas.

In the presence of dyes, in particular oxidation dyes, the composition according to the invention leads to good dyeing performance, in particular in terms of build-up, color intensity and selectivity.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably aqueous, comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, one or more organic amines and one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa), and optionally one or more dyes.

The invention also relates to a ready-to-use composition for the oxidation dyeing/lightening of keratin fibers and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the extemporaneous mixture of a cosmetic composition (A) according to the invention, and an oxidizing composition (B).

Another object of the invention is a coloring/lightening kit comprising, on the one hand, a cosmetic composition (A) according to the invention and, on the other hand, an oxidizing composition (B).

A further subject of the invention is a process for coloring/lightening keratin fibres, in particular human fibres, such as the hair, using said ready-to-use composition.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from … to …”.

Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

According to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises 12-hydroxystearic acid, one or more organic amines and one or more fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the 12-hydroxystearic acid is present in an amount varying from 0.1 to 40% by weight, better still from 1 to 30% by weight, and better still from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The organic amine(s) are preferably chosen from those whose pK _b at 25° C. is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pK _b corresponding to the highest basicity function. Furthermore, the organic amines do not comprise a fatty, alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

The organic amine(s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (P) below:
(P)

in which W is a divalent C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups or a C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl group, and/or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR _u ; R _x , R _y , R _z , R _t , R _u and identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl group or a C ₁ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group, an amino C ₁ to C ₆ .

Mention may be made, by way of example of amines of formula (P), of 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, spermidine.

By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, C ₁ to C ₈ carrying one or more hydroxy radicals.

The alkanolamines chosen from mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three C ₁ to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radicals, which may or may not be identical, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanol -amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane.

More particularly, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic, sulphonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.

As amino acids which can be used in the composition according to the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine , cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a cycle or in a ureido function.

Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (Q), as well as their salts

R-CH ₂ -CH(NH ₂ )-C(O)-OH (Q)

in which, R represents a group chosen from imidazolyl, preferably imidazolyl-4-yl; aminopropyl; aminoethyl; -(CH ₂ ) ₂ N(H)-C(O)-NH ₂ ; and –(CH ₂ ) ₂ -N(H)-C(NH)-NH ₂ .

Compounds corresponding to formula (Q) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline.

The organic amine can also be chosen from organic amines of the heterocyclic type. Mention may in particular be made, in addition to the histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, benzimidazole.

The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of carnosine, anserine and balenine.

The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made, in addition to arginine already mentioned as amino acid, of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidino-propionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)-ethane-1 acid -sulfonic.

As hybrid compounds, mention may be made of the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid, hydrochloric acid.

It is possible in particular to use guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.

Preferably, the organic amine(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids in neutral or ionic form, in particular basic amino acids, and preferably corresponding to those of formula (Q ) and guanidine carbonate.

More preferably, the organic amine(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol , 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane, arginine, lysine, guanidine carbonate and mixtures thereof.

The organic amine(s) are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition .

The composition of the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances (at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 10 5 Pa)). These liquid fatty substances are generally called oils.

The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% and preferably 1 % even more preferably at 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substances of the invention do not contain salified carboxylic acid groups.

In particular, the fatty substances of the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated ethers.

By “oil” is meant a “fatty substance” which is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 10 5 Pa).

The term “non-silicone oil or fatty substance” means an oil or a fatty substance not containing any silicon (Si) atom and a “silicone oil or fatty substance” an oil or a fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom .

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid C6-C16 hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of the triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids have more particularly at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30, better still 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or several hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As regards the liquid C6-C16 hydrocarbons, the latter are linear, branched, optionally cyclic and preferably are alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam® , and mixtures thereof.

As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else, for example, sunflower oils, corn oils , soy, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, different from the triglycerides mentioned above; mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26, the number total carbon of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more preferably greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of ethyl-2-hexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and the esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of alcohols di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy C2-C26.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and di-esters of sugars of C6-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and derivatives thereof. in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of C6-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or their mixtures such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, the mono- and di-esters and in particular the mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof, are used.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

The silicones which can be used in the composition of the present invention are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, modified or not by organic groups, having a viscosity of 5.10-6 at 2.5 m2/s at 25° C. and preferably 1.10-5 at 1m2/s.

The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are in the form of oils.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicones can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are liquid silicones as defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from amino groups and alkoxy groups.

The organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter NOLL's work "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C., and more particularly still from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa -2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6m²/s at 25° C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 " by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Preferably, non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which there may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:

- the SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;

- the oils of the 200 series from the company DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2/s;

- VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

As regards the liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they can in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10 −5 to 5×10 −2 m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products marketed under the following names:

. SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;

. the oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

. DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID from DOW CORNING;

. BAYER's PK series silicones such as the PK20 product;

. the silicones of the PN and PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;

. certain GENERAL ELECTRIC SF series oils such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

- amino groups, substituted or not, such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;

- alkoxylated groups.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substances according to the invention are non-silicone.

The liquid fatty substances are advantageously chosen from liquid C6-C16 alkanes, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils of the triglyceride type, liquid synthetic triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid acid esters fats and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from vaseline oil, liquid C6-C16 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, fatty alcohols liquids or mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially from vaseline oil, liquid C6-C16 alkanes, polydecenes.

Even more preferentially, the liquid fatty substances are chosen from petrolatum oil and octyldodecanol.

Obviously, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional fatty substances different from the liquid fatty substances which have just been described, which are not liquid at room temperature (25° C.), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa).

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more liquid fatty substances in a content ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 15% to 80% by weight, better still from 15% to 75% by weight with respect to to the total weight of the composition.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more colorant(s).

The dyes are chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes.

The oxidation dyes that can be used in the present invention are generally chosen from oxidation bases, optionally combined with one or more coupler(s).

The oxidation bases may in particular be chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.

Among the paraphenylenediamines, mention may be made, by way of example, of paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro-paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methyl aniline, N ,N-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methyl aniline, 4-N,N-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2 -chloro aniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-fluoro paraphenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxypropyl-1,3-( bis-N-hydroxyethyl) p-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl paraphenylenediamine, N,N-(ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl) paraphenylenediamine, N -(4'-aminophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-amino toluene, 3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the paraphenylenediamines mentioned above, paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, N,N-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxypropyl-1,3 -(bis-N-hydroxyethyl) p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N,N-bis -(β-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, and their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.

Among the bis-phenylalkylenediamines, mention may be made by way of example of N,N'-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino propanol, N,N'-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'- bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis-(4-methyl-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis-(ethyl) -N,N'-bis-(4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts.

Among the para-aminophenols, mention may be made, by way of example, of para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methyl phenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methyl phenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, and their acid addition salts.

Among the ortho-aminophenols, mention may be made, by way of example, of 2-amino phenol, 2-amino-5-methyl phenol, 2-amino-6-methyl phenol, 5-acetamido-2-amino phenol , and their addition salts.

Among the heterocyclic bases, mention may be made, by way of example, of pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, such as 2,5-diamino pyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)-amino-3-amino pyridine , 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts.

Other useful pyridine oxidation bases in the present invention are the 3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in patent application FR 2801308. By way of example, mention may be made of pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylamino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamino; (3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-yl)-methanol; 2-(3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-yl)-ethanol; 2-(3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-yl)-ethanol; (3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)-methanol; 3,6-diamino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 3,4-diamino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine; 7-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine; 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-[(3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-yl)-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]-ethanol; 2-[(3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-yl)-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]-ethanol; 3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol; 2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-methylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a] chloride pyridine; as well as their addition salts.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetra-aminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 such as 4.5 -diamino-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenyl pyrazole, 4-amino- 1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino pyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1 ,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5 -diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methyl pyrazole, and their addition salts. It is also possible to use 4-5-diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.

Preferably, a 4,5-diaminopyrazole will be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-pyrazole and/or one of its salts.

As pyrazolic derivatives, mention may also be made of the diamino N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in application FR-A-2 886 136 such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6 ,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol -1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl) -6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4 ,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3 -one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6, 7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylamino-pyrrolidin -1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2- a]pyrazol-1-one.

It is preferred to use 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or one of its salts.

As heterocyclic bases, 2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2 ,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a salt thereof.

The couplers that can be used in the present invention can be chosen from those conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibres.

Among these couplers, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.

By way of examples, mention may be made of 1,3-dihydroxy benzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl benzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxy benzene, 1-hydroxy-3-amino benzene , 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-ß-hydroxyethylamino benzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxy toluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methyl phenol, 2,4-diamino-1- (ß-hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino-4-(ß-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3 -ureido aniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, 1-ß-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxy indole , 4-hydroxy indole, 4-hydroxy-N-methyl indole, 2-amino-3-hydroxy pyridine, 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N -(ß-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylene dioxybenzene, 2,6-bis-(ß-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxy indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methyl pyridine, 1- H-3-methyl pyrazol 5-one, 1-phenyl 3-methyl pyrazol 5-one, 2,6-dimethyl pyrazolo-[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6 -dimethyl-[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole, 6-methyl pyrazolo-[1,5-a]-benzimidazole, their addition salts with an acid, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the addition salts of oxidation bases and couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

The direct dye(s) can be chosen from synthetic direct dyes and natural direct dyes.

By direct dye, we mean any dye that does not require the presence of a chemical oxidizing agent other than air to color.

By synthetic direct dye, we mean any direct dye that does not exist in the natural state.

Examples of suitable synthetic direct dyes include azo direct dyes; methines; carbonyls; azines; xanthenics; nitro (hetero)aryl; tri-(hetero)aryl methanes; (metallo)porphyrins; and phthalocyanines, alone or in mixtures.

More particularly, azo synthetic direct dyes comprise an —N=N— function whose two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously involved in a cycle. However, it is not excluded that one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence -N=N- is involved in a cycle.

By way of example of azo direct dyes, the following dyes can be mentioned, described in the INTERNATIONAL COLOR INDEX ^3rd edition:

- Disperse Red 17

- Basic Red 22

- Basic Red 76

- Basic Yellow 57

- Basic Brown 16

- Basic Brown 17

- Disperse Black 9.

The direct dyes of the methine family are more particularly compounds comprising at least one sequence chosen from >C=C< and -N=C< whose two atoms are not simultaneously involved in a cycle. However, it is specified that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the sequences can be involved in a cycle.

More particularly, methine dyes are derived from compounds of the methine, azomethine, hydrazono, mono- and diarylmethane, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, (hemi)cyanines type such as styryl, streptocyanine, carbocyanine, azacarbocyanine dyes. , diazacarbocyanines, tetraazacarbocyanines such as tetraazapentamethines, and their optical and geometric isomers.

Among the azo, azomethine, methine or tetraazapentamethine direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714954; FR 2189006, FR 2285851, FR-2140205, EP 1378544, EP 1674073.

Among the indoamine dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds:

- 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis-(β-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone

- 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone

- 3-N(2'-Chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine

- 3-N(3'-Chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine

- 3-[4'-N-(Ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

Among the dyes of the tetraazapentamethine type which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds appearing in the table below:

X ^- representing an anion preferably chosen from chloride, iodide, methyl sulphate, ethyl sulphate, acetate and perchlorate.

As regards the synthetic direct dyes of the carbonyl family, mention may be made, for example, of the dyes chosen from quinone, acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso) violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole, coumarin.

Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of the following dyes:

- Disperse Red 15

- Solvent Purple 13

- Disperse Purple 1

- Disperse Purple 4

- Disperse Blue 1

- Disperse Purple 8

- Disperse Blue 3

- Disperse Red 11

- Disperse Blue 7

- Basic Blue 22

- Scatters Purple 15

- Basic Blue 99

as well as the following compounds:

-1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone

- 1-Aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone

- 1-Aminopropylaminoanthraquinone

- 5-β-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone

- 2-Aminoethylaminoanthraquinone

- 1,4-Bis-(β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone.

As regards synthetic direct dyes of the azine family, mention may be made in particular of azine, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine, (di)thiazine.

By way of example of azine dyes, the following compounds may be mentioned:

- Basic Blue 17

- Basic Red 2.

As regards the synthetic direct dyes of the xanthenic family, mention may be made in particular of xanthene, thioxanthene and pyronine.

The synthetic nitro (hetero)aryl direct dyes are more particularly nitro-benzene or nitro-pyridine direct dyes.

Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following compounds:

- 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene,

- 1-amino-2-nitro-4-ß-hydroxyethylaminobenzene

- 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene

- 1,4-bis(ß-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene

- 1-ß-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene

- 1-ß-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(ß-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene

- 1-amino-3-methyl-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene

- 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene

- 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene

- 1-amino-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene

- 1,2-bis-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene

- 1-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene

- 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene

- 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene

- 1-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene

- 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene

- 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene

- 1-Methoxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene

- 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene

- 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene

- 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene

- 1-β-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene

- 1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene

- 1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene

- 1-Hydroxy-6-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene

- 1-Hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

Among the triarylmethane dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds:

- Basic Green 1

- Basic Purple 3

- Basic Purple 14

- Basic Blue 7

- Basic Blue 26

As regards synthetic direct dyes of the (metallo)porphyrin or phthalocyanine type, it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, such as for example alkali and alkaline-earth metals, zinc and silicon.

As examples of particularly suitable synthetic direct dyes, mention may be made of nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo, methine, azomethine, hydrazono or styryl direct dyes; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes; azine direct dyes; xanthenics; triarylmethane; indoamines; indigoids; phthalocyanines, and porphyrins, alone or in mixtures.

These dyes can be monochromophoric dyes (that is to say comprising only one dye) or polychromophoric dyes, preferably di- or tri-chromophoric; the chromophores possibly being identical or not, of the same chemical family or not. It should be noted that a polychromophoric dye comprises several groups each originating from a molecule absorbing in the visible range between 400 and 800 nm. Moreover, this absorbance of the dye requires neither prior oxidation of the latter, nor association with other chemical species(ies).

In the case of polychromophoric dyes, the chromophores are linked together by means of at least one linker BL which may or may not be cationic.

Preferably, the connecting arm BL is a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl chain, linear, branched or cyclic, optionally interrupted and/or terminated by at least i) a heteroatom (such as nitrogen N(R), N ⁺ R,R', Q ^- , oxygen or sulfur), ii) a group C(O), C(S), S(O), S(O) ₂ or iii) their combination, optionally interrupted by at least one heterocycle, condensed or not with a phenyl nucleus and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said cycle and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted by at least one substituted or unsubstituted phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted by two optionally substituted C ₁ -C ₁₅ alkyl groups; the connecting arm not comprising a nitro, nitroso or peroxo group, with R and R', which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group optionally substituted, preferably by at least one hydroxy group and Q ^- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

If the heterocycles or aromatic rings are substituted, they are, for example, by one or more C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl groups optionally substituted by a hydroxy, C ₁ -C ₂ alkoxy, C ₂ -C ₄ hydroxyalkoxy group , acetylamino, amino substituted by one or two C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group or the two groups which can form with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle with 5 or 6-membered, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C ₁ -C ₂ alkoxy group; a C ₂ -C ₄ hydroxyalkoxy group; an amino group; an amino group substituted by one or two identical or different C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the dye or dyes are chosen from (poly)azo dyes such as (di)azo dyes; hydrazone; (poly)methines such as styryls; anthraquinones or naphthalimides. Preferably, these dyes are (poly)cationic.

According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, the dyes are chosen from cationic dyes called “basic dyes”.

Mention may be made of the following hydrazono cationic dyes of formula (I) and (I′), azo compounds (II) and (II′) and diazo compounds (III):

Het ⁺ -C(R ^a )=NN(R ^b )-Ar, Q ^-

(I)

Het ⁺ -N(R ^a )-N=C(R ^b )-Ar, Q ^-

(I')

Het ⁺ -N=N-Ar, Q ^-

(II)

Ar ⁺ -N=N-Ar'', Q ^-

(II')

Het ⁺ -N=N-Ar'-N=N-Ar, Q ^-

(III)

formulas (I), (I'), (II), (II') and (III) with:

- Het ⁺ representing a cationic heteroaryl group, preferably with an endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially by one or more C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl groups such as methyl;

- Ar ⁺ representing an aryl group, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, particularly tri(C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl)-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;

- Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, optionally substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) optionally substituted C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, ii) optionally substituted C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, iii) (di )(C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl)amino, v) N-(C ₁ -C 8 _alkyl) )-N-aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl)amino optionally substituted or else Ar represents a julolidine group;

- Ar' is an optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene group such as phenylene, particularly para-phenylene, or naphthalene, optionally substituted, preferably by one or more C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, hydroxyl, or C ₁ -C alkoxy groups ₈ ;

- Ar'' is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl optionally substituted, preferably by one or more C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)amino C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl groups , C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy or phenyl;

- R ^a and R ^b , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group;

or else the substituent R ^a with a substituent of Het ⁺ and/or R ^b with a substituent of Ar form together with the atoms which carry them a (hetero)cycloalkyl;

particularly R ^a and R ^b , representing a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group;

- Q ^- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulphate.

In particular, the dyes of the invention are cationically charged, endocyclic, azo and hydrazono of formulas (I), (I') and (II) as defined previously. Those of formula (I), (I') and (II) described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954 are more particularly preferred.

Preferably, dyes of the invention are chosen from the following compounds:

formulas (I-1) and (II-1) in which:

- R ¹ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group such as methyl;

- R ² and R ³ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group such as methyl; And

- R ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as optionally substituted C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, optionally substituted C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, optionally substituted (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl)amino on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R ⁴ is a hydrogen atom,

- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH,

- Q ^- is as previously defined.

In particular, the dyes of formula (I-1) and (II-1) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives:

with Q ⁻ as defined previously, and particularly representing a halide such as a chloride, or an alkyl sulphate such as methyl sulphate or mesyl.

Mention may also be made of 1-(4'-aminodiphenylazo)-2-methyl-4bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene.

Among the polychromophoric dyes, mention may more particularly be made of di- or tri-chromophoric azo and/or azomethine (hydrazonic) dyes, symmetrical or not, comprising on the one hand at least one aromatic heterocycle comprising 5 or 6 members, optionally condensed, comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said heterocycle and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen), and on the other hand, at least one phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally substituted, optionally carrying at least one OR group with R representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, an optionally substituted phenyl ring, or at least one N(R') group ₂ with R′, identical or not, representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, an optionally substituted phenyl ring; the R' groups being able to form with the nitrogen atom to which they are linked, a saturated heterocycle with 5 or 6 members, or even one and/or the two R' groups can each form with the carbon atom of the aromatic ring placed ortho to the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle with 5 or 6 members.

As an aromatic cationic heterocycle, mention may preferably be made of 5- or 6-membered rings comprising 1 to 3 nitrogen atoms, preferably 1 or 2 nitrogen atoms, one being quaternized; said heterocycle being further optionally condensed to a benzene ring. It should also be noted that the heterocycle may possibly include another heteroatom other than nitrogen, such as sulfur or oxygen.

If the heterocycles or phenyl or naphthyl groups are substituted, they are, for example, by one or more C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl groups optionally substituted by a hydroxy, C ₁ -C ₂ alkoxy, hydroxy C ₂ - C ₄ , acetylamino, amino substituted by one or two C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group or the two groups which can form with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle with 5 or 6 membered, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C ₁ -C ₂ alkoxy group; a C ₂ -C ₄ hydroxyalkoxy group; an amino group; an amino group substituted by one or two identical or different C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.

These polychromophores are interconnected by means of at least one connecting arm BL as defined previously.

The connection between the linker BL and each chromophore is generally done by means of a heteroatom substituting the phenyl or napthyl ring or by means of the quaternized nitrogen atom of the cationic heterocycle.

The dye may comprise identical or different chromophores.

As examples of such dyes, reference may in particular be made to patent applications EP 1637566, EP 1619221, EP 1634926, EP 1619220, EP 1672033, EP 1671954, EP 1671955, EP 1679312, EP 1671951, EP167952, EP167971, WO 16/063866

It is also possible to use cationic synthetic direct dyes cited in applications EP 1006153, which describes dyes comprising two chromophores of the anthraquinone type connected by means of a cationic linker arm; EP 1433472, EP 1433474, EP 1433471 and EP 1433473 which describe dichromophoric dyes which may or may not be identical, linked by a cationic linker arm or not, as well as EP 6291333 which describes in particular dyes comprising three chromophores, one of them being an anthraquinone chromophore to which are linked two chromophores of the azo or diazacarbocyanine type or one of its isomers.

By natural dyes, we mean any dye or dye precursor having a natural occurrence, which is produced by extraction (and possibly purification) from a plant or animal matrix, possibly in the presence of natural compounds such as ash or ammonia.

As natural dyes, mention may be made of lawsone, henna, curcumin, chlorophyllin, alizarin, kermesic acid, purpurin, purporogalline, indigo, Tyrian purple, sorghum, carminic acid, catechin, epicatechin, juglone, bixin, betanin, quercetin, chromenic dyes, chromanic dyes including hematein and brazilein, and laccaic acids.

Preferably, the natural dyes used in the invention are chosen from curcumin, chlorophyllin, chromenic dyes, chromanic dyes and laccaic acids.

By chromenic or chromanic dye is meant according to the invention, dyes which comprise in their structure at least one bicycle of the following formula (IV):

intracyclic bond representing a carbon-carbon single bond or a carbon-carbon double bond, as illustrated by formula IV-1 designating the family of chromenes and formula IV-2 designating the family of chromans below:

More particularly, the dyes having in their structure a bicycle of formula (IV) are chosen from the dyes of the following formulas:

- formula (V), comprising in its structure the bicycle of formula IV-2,

in which :

i) represents a carbon-carbon single bond or a carbon-carbon double bond, the sequence of these bonds denotes two carbon-carbon single bonds and two carbon-carbon double bonds, said bonds being conjugated,

ii) X represents a group:

iii) R ¹ , R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ , which are identical or different, independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, an optionally substituted alkyl group, an optionally substituted alkoxy group , or an optionally substituted acyloxy group,

as well as its tautomeric and/or mesomeric forms, its stereoisomers, its addition salts with an acid or a cosmetically acceptable base, and its hydrates; And

- formula (VI), comprising in its structure the bicycle of formula IV-1:

(VI)

in which :

- R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₆ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₀ , identical or different, represent independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,

- R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ , R ₁₇ and R ₁₈ , which are identical or different, independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy group,

as well as its tautomeric and/or mesomeric forms, its stereoisomers, its addition salts with an acid or a cosmetically acceptable base, and its hydrates.

Concerning the dyes of formula (V) as defined previously, these can be found in two tautomeric forms denoted (Va) and (Vb):

The alkyl groups mentioned in the preceding definitions of the substituents are hydrocarbon groups, saturated, linear or branched, generally in C ₁ -C _20, particularly in C ₁ -C ₁₀ , preferably in C ₁ -C ₆ , such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl and hexyl.

The alkoxy groups are alkyl-oxy groups with the alkyl groups as defined above, and preferably the alkoxy groups are C ₁ -C ₁₀ , such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy.

The alkyl or alkoxy groups, when they are substituted, can be so by at least one substituent carried by at least one carbon atom, chosen from:

- a halogen atom;

- a hydroxy group;

- a C ₁ -C ₂ alkoxy group;

- a C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkoxycarbonyl group;

- a C ₂ -C ₄ (poly)-hydroxyalkoxy group;

- an amino group;

- a 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl group;

- an optionally cationic 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl group, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted by a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group, preferably methyl;

- an amino group substituted by one or two alkyl groups, identical or different, C ₁ -C ₆ optionally carrying at least:

* a hydroxy group,

* an amino group optionally substituted by one or two optionally substituted C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl groups, said alkyl groups being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle comprising from 5 to 7 members, saturated or unsaturated optionally substituted optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom different or not from nitrogen,

* a quaternary ammonium group -N ⁺ R'R''R''', M ^- for which R', R'', R''', which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C alkyl group ₁ - _C4 ; and M ^- represents the counterion of the corresponding organic, mineral or halide acid,

* or an optionally cationic 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl group, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted by a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group, preferably methyl;

- an acylamino group (-NR-COR') in which the R group is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group optionally carrying at least one hydroxy group and the R' group is a C1 alkyl group -C2;

- a carbamoyl group ((R)2N-CO-) in which the R groups, which may or may not be identical, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group optionally carrying at least one hydroxy group;

- an alkylsulfonylamino group (R'SO2-NR-) in which the R group represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group optionally carrying at least one hydroxy group and the R' group represents an alkyl group in C1-C4, a phenyl group;

- an aminosulfonyl group ((R)2N-SO2-) in which the R groups, which may or may not be identical, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group optionally bearing at least one hydroxy group,

- a carboxylic group in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or an ammonium, substituted or not);

- a cyano group;

- a nitro group;

- a carboxy or glycosylcarbonyl group;

- a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups;

- a glycosyloxy group; And

- a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups.

By glycosyl group is meant a group derived from a mono or polysaccharide.

Preferably, the alkyl or alkoxy groups of formula (V) are unsubstituted.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dyes of formula (V) comprise an R ⁶ group representing a hydroxy group.

In a preferred variant, X represents an O=C group.

Another particular embodiment of the invention relates to the dyes of formula (V), for which the group R ¹ represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxy group.

More particularly, the dyes of formula (V) are chosen from hematein and brazilein.

Braziline is a conjugated form of a chromanic compound with formula IV-2. The diagram below shows the tautomeric structures (Va) and (Vb) illustrated above.

Braziline and hematein or the hematoxylin/hematein and braziline/brazilein pairs can be obtained synthetically or by extraction from plants or plants known to be rich in these dyes.

The dyes of formula (V) can be used in the form of extracts. The following plant extracts (genus and species) can be used: Haematoxylon campechianum, Haematoxylon brasiletto, Caesalpinia echinata, Caesalpinia sappan, Caesalpinia spinosa, and Caesalpina Brasiliensis.

The extracts are obtained by extracting various parts of plants, such as for example the root, the wood, the bark or the leaf.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the natural dyes of formula (V) are derived from logwood, pernambuco wood, sappan wood and brazilwood.

The salts of the dyes of formula (V) and (VI) of the invention may be salts of cosmetically acceptable acids or bases.

Acids can be inorganic or organic. Preferably, the acid is hydrochloric acid leading to chlorides.

The bases can be inorganic or organic. Particularly the bases are alkaline hydroxides, such as soda leading to sodium salts.

Preferably, the dye(s) of formula (V) and (VI) included in the composition according to the invention are derived from plant extracts. You can also use mixtures of plant extracts.

The natural extracts of the dyes according to the invention can be in the form of powders or liquids. Preferably, the extracts are in powder form.

In another variant of the invention, the natural dyes are chosen from laccaic acids.

By laccaic acid is meant within the meaning of the present invention, a compound having in its structure a unit of the type:

Preferably, the laccaic acids of the invention are of the following formula (VII):

(VII)

with R ₁ denoting a phenyl group substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, and preferably by a hydroxyl group advantageously located in the ortho position with respect to the bond attaching it to the condensed rings.

In particular, the phenyl group of R ₁ comprises, in addition to a hydroxyl group, at least one -CH ₂ R ₂ group, R ₂ designating an acetamidomethyl (CH ₃ CONHCH ₂ -), hydroxymethyl (HOCH ₂ -), 2-amino acetic group acid (HO ₂ C(NH ₂ )CH-).

Preferably, the laccaic acids of the invention are chosen from laccaic acids A, B, C and D or their mixtures and more particularly chosen from A, B or C, or their mixtures.

Laccaic acid AG: -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHC(O)CH ₃

Laccaic acid BG: -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH

Laccaic acid CG: -CH ₂ CH(NH ₂ )C(O)OH

Laccaic acid DG: -CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂

Laccaic acid A, B, C and D.

As laccaic acids according to the invention, it is possible in particular to use the dye CI Natural Red 25, CI 75450, CAS-60687-93-6, often called laccaic acid. It is a naturally occurring dye from the secretions of an insect, the Coccus laccae (Lacifer Lacca Kerr), which is commonly found on the twigs of some native Southeast Asian trees.

CI Natural Red 25 generally contains two major constituents in its composition: laccaic acid A and laccaic acid B. It may also contain a lesser amount of laccaic acid C.

It is of course also possible to use the purified forms of the laccaic acids of formula (VII).

Even more preferentially, the natural direct dyes are chosen from hematein and brazilein.

Preferably, the dye(s) is or are one or more oxidation dye(s) optionally combined with one or more direct dye(s).

Better still, the dye or dyes is or are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, para-aminophenols, pyrazole derivatives, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from paraphenylenediamine, paratolylenediamine, N,N-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxypropyl-1,3-(bis-N-hydroxyethyl) p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, 3-methyl p- aminophenol, 2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2,3-diamino-6, 7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 1,3-dihydroxy benzene, 2-methyl-1,3-dihydroxy benzene, 4-chloro-1,3 -dihydroxy benzene, 1-hydroxy-3-amino benzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-beta-hydroxyethylamino benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-2- methyl phenol, 2,4-diamino-1-(ß-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, their addition salts and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes, preferably one or more oxidation dyes.

The content of dyes, when present, preferably ranges from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition.

The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous. When it is aqueous, the composition according to the invention comprises water in a content preferably ranging from 5 to 80% by weight, better still from 10 to 70% by weight, better still from 12 to 60% by weight per relative to its total weight.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more alkaline agents other than organic amines.

It can be mineral or organic.

In particular, the alkaline agent(s) other than organic amines can be chosen from:

a) ammonia,

b) mineral or organic hydroxides,

c) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, and

d) carbonates and bicarbonates, particularly of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium carbonate or bicarbonate and potassium carbonate or bicarbonate.

The inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from hydroxides of an alkali metal, hydroxides of an alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, hydroxides of a transition metal, such as hydroxides of metals of groups III, IV, V and VI of the periodic table of the elements, hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, and hydroxides of quaternary ammoniums.

The alkaline agents different from the preferred organic amines are in particular ammonia, sodium or potassium hydroxides, sodium or potassium carbonate, sodium or potassium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents other than organic amines, it (s) is or are present in an amount preferably varying from 0.01 to 30% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and even better from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The organic amine(s) and the different alkaline agent(s) are introduced in a content such that the pH of the composition according to the invention, when it is aqueous, is advantageously between 8 and 12, better between 9 and 11.

The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more organic solvents.

By way of organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of alkanols, linear or branched, C ₂ to C ₄ , such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The content of the organic solvent(s), when they are present in the composition, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and/or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric thickeners, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids other than 12-hydroxystearic acid, perfumes, preservatives, pigments and ceramides.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties inherently attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. .

The above additives may generally be present in an amount comprised for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The composition according to the invention is preferably an emulsion, better still a direct oil-in-water emulsion.

The invention also relates to a method for preparing the cosmetic composition as defined above, comprising:

- the mixture of 12-hydroxystearic acid, one or more organic amines and possibly water at a temperature ranging from 60 to 80°C,

- the addition to the mixture of one or more liquid fatty substances,

- cooling the mixture to room temperature (25°C).

Preferably, the addition of colorant takes place during the cooling phase of the mixture.

Yet another object is a ready-to-use composition which results from the extemporaneous mixing of a cosmetic composition (A) as described above and an oxidizing composition (B).

Preferably, the compositions (A) and (B) are mixed in a weight ratio (A)/(B) ranging from 0.1 to 5, better still from 0.2 to 2.

The oxidizing composition (B) comprises one or more oxidizing agent(s).

The oxidizing agent used in the context of the invention is a chemical oxidizing agent different from the oxygen in the air.

The said oxidizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from the group formed by hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as persulphates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates.

In particular, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing agent(s) may represent from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, better still from 2 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (B).

A subject of the present invention is also a process for dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition as described previously, and in particular a ready-to-use composition as defined above resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of a cosmetic composition (A) as described above and an oxidizing composition (B) as described above.

In particular, the cosmetic composition of the invention or the ready-to-use composition of the invention is applied to dry or wet keratin fibers.

The composition is advantageously left in place on the keratin fibers for a period ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour, and more preferably for a period ranging from 5 to 45 minutes.

At the end of the coloring/lightening process, the keratin fibers are advantageously rinsed with water. They can optionally be washed with shampoo, followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

Another object of the invention relates to a device with several compartments, or a kit for coloring/lightening keratin fibres, comprising at least two compartments:

- a first compartment containing a composition (A) as described above; And

- a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition (B) as described above.

According to a variant of the invention, the kit also comprises an additional compartment containing an additional composition comprising one or more treating agent(s).

The compositions of the kit are packaged in separate compartments, which may optionally be accompanied by appropriate, identical or different means of application, such as paintbrushes, brushes, sponges.

The following examples are given purely by way of illustration of the present invention.

EXAMPLES

A dye composition A according to the invention and a comparative composition A′ were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following table. The amounts indicated are expressed in% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the dye composition.

Composition A (invention) A’ (comparative) Sodium metabisulphite powder 0.22 0.22 Monoethanolamine 6.90 4.28 Ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid 0.20 0.20 1-Beta-hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diamino-benzene dihydrochloride 0.02 0.02 6-Hydroxy benzomorpholine 0.033 0.033 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 0.67 0.67 1-Hydroxy-3-amino-benzene (m-aminophenol) 0.12 0.12 1-Methyl-2,5-Diamino-benzene 0.77 0.77 12-hydroxystearic acid 15.00 - Mineral oil 60.00 60.00 Vitamin C: ascorbic acid 0.12 0.12 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Mixture of linear C18-C24 fatty alcohols (C20-22 alcohols) - 4.60 Cetyl palmitate - 2.00 Carboxyvinyl polymer synthesized in an ethyl acetate/cyclohexane mixture - 0.1 Propylene glycol - 10 Glycerine - 5.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16/C18) oxyethylenated (60 units of ethylene oxide (EO)) ether of myristyl glycol - 0.01 Oxyethylenated decyl alcohol (5 EO) - 1.20 Ethylene oleohydric alcohol (20 EO) - 4.00 Ethylene oleohydric alcohol (10 EO) - 1.00

An oxidizing composition was prepared from the ingredients below.
Oxidizing composition Quantity Hydrogen peroxide 6 Mineral oil 20 PEG-4 rapeseedamide 1.2 Steareth-20 5 Cetearyl alcohol 6 Polyquaternium-6 0.2 Hexadimethrine chloride 0.15 Glycerin 0.5 Stabilizers, sequestrants qs Phosphoric acid Qs pH 2.2 ± 0.2 Water Qs 100

Protocol:

The composition according to the invention A and the comparative composition A′ are mixed with 1 times their weight of oxidizing composition (6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide).

Composition A according to the invention mixes easily with the oxidant.

Each mixture obtained is applied to locks of 90% natural white (BN) hair at a rate of 10 g of mixture for 1 g of hair and on locks of 90% white permed (BP) hair at the rate of 10 g of mixture for 1 g of hair.

The resulting mixture of composition A with the oxidant is easily applied to the locks.

After 30 minutes of pause time at 27°C, the hair is rinsed with water, washed with a standard shampoo and then dried.

Just after drying, it is observed that the locks treated with composition A according to the invention have a clean feel. It is also observed to the touch that composition A according to the invention provides more care than comparative composition A'.

Colorimetric results:

The coloring of the locks treated with each of compositions A and B according to the protocol described above is evaluated using a Minolta 2600D spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

In this system, L* represents lightness: the lower the value of L*, the more intense and powerful the color obtained.

Composition A + oxidant (invention) Composition A’ + oxidant (comparative) L* on BN (Natural whites) 16.3 20.3 L* on BP (permanent blanks) 15.6 18.2

Composition A according to the invention leads to a lower L* value than comparative composition A′, therefore to a more intense, more powerful coloring compared to the comparative composition.

Rinseability test:

For each of compositions A and A', 5 locks were colored according to the protocol described above.

For each of compositions A and A', 5 experts evaluated the rinsability according to the protocol detailed below, each expert evaluating the rinsability of a lock.

The wick is placed a first time vertically under a tap of water whose temperature is 35° C., with a flow rate of 2 liters/min, for 5 seconds. This corresponds to a ^1st pass. An evaluation of the rinsability is then carried out according to the notation defined below by placing the wick on an absorbent paper.

0: there is a lot of composition left on the wick

1: there is little composition left on the wick

2: there is no composition left on the wick, you have to open the wick to see some inside it

3: there is no composition left when you open the wick, you have to squeeze it hard to see it come out,

4: the wick is rinsed.

As long as the wick is not rated 4 (rinsed wick), it is again placed vertically under the water tap, under the same conditions as for the first pass, for a new pass, then its rinsability is evaluated again .

It was found that the locks treated with composition A according to the invention were rinsed after 4 passages under water, whereas the locks treated with comparative composition A′ are rinsed only after 6 passages under water.

The composition according to the invention A has a markedly improved rinsability compared to the comparative composition A′.

Thus, the composition according to the invention A makes it possible to reduce the rinsing time and the quantity of water necessary for optimal rinsing compared to the comparative composition A′.

Measurement of the threshold stress of the compositions:

The threshold stress measurement makes it possible to determine the stress value from which a threshold fluid begins to flow. This makes it possible to assess the risks of dripping of the coloring compositions during an application.

The threshold stress measurements were carried out using an MCR 502 rotational rheometer from ANTON PAAR, equipped with an air Peltier element to regulate the temperature at 25.0 °C. A cone/plane geometry with a diameter of 50 mm/1° (5 μm sandblasted steel) was used as well as an anti-evaporation device in order to avoid evaporation phenomena during the measurement. The measurement protocol is as follows:

The measurement protocol used is as follows:

- Logarithmic stress sweep from 0.5 Pa to 500 Pa in 3 minutes (360 points) and at 25.0°C.

The threshold stress value, expressed in Pa, is determined using the tangent method and corresponds to the point of intersection of the two straight lines.

The higher the threshold stress, the lower the risk of sag.

We get the following results:

Formula Composition A (invention) Composition A’ (comparative) Threshold stress value (Pa) 60.8 6.3

When mixed with the oxidizing composition, composition A according to the invention has a much higher threshold stress than comparative composition A′. Thus, the invention presents less risk of running than comparative composition A′.

A composition A1 according to the invention and comparative compositions A1' and A1'' were also prepared, from the ingredients indicated in the following tables. The amounts indicated are expressed in% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition A1 (invention) A1’ (comparative) A1’’ (comparative) Monoethanolamine 6.90 4.35 4.26 12-hydroxystearic acid 15.00 - - Mineral oil 60.00 60.00 60.00 Vitamin C: ascorbic acid - 0.12 0.12 Sodium metabisulphite powder - 0.22 0.22 Coco-glucoside - 3,016 Hydroxypropylguar - 1.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil - 1.00 Ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid 0.20 0.20 Sodium lauryl sulphate - 1.24 Mixture of linear C18-C24 fatty alcohols (C20-22 alcohols) - 4.60 Cetyl palmitate - 2.00 Carboxyvinyl polymer synthesized in an ethyl acetate/cyclohexane mixture - 0.10 Glycerine - 5.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16/C18) oxyethylenated (60 units of ethylene oxide (EO)) ether of myristyl glycol - 0.01 Oxyethylenated decyl alcohol (5 EO) - 1.08 Ethylene oleohydric alcohol (20 EO) - 4.00 Ethylene oleohydric alcohol (10 EO) - 1.00 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

Compositions A1, A1' and A1'' were applied to the malleable head and then rinsed.

The rinsing of hair treated with composition A1 according to the invention is faster than that of hair treated with compositions A1' or A1''.

In addition, a coating is present up to the tips of the hair treated with composition A1, unlike the hair treated with compositions A1' or A1''. It is therefore observed to the touch that the composition A1 according to the invention provides more care than the comparative compositions A1' and A1''.

Compositions A2 according to the invention and comparative A2′ were also prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following tables. The amounts indicated are expressed in% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition A2 (invention) A2' (comparative) Sodium metabisulphite powder 0.22 0.22 Monoethanolamine 6.90 6.90 Ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid 0.20 0.20 1-Hydroxy-4-amino-benzene (p-aminophenol) 0.10 0.10 6-Hydroxy benzomorpholine 0.006 0.006 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 0.30 0.30 1-Hydroxy-3-amino-benzene (m-aminophenol) 0.06 0.06 1-Methyl-2,5-Diamino-benzene 0.23 0.23 12-hydroxystearic acid 15.00 15.00 Mineral oil 20 - Cetearyl alcohol (C16/C18 50/50) - 20 Vitamin C: ascorbic acid 0.12 0.12 Water Qs 100 Qs 100

For each of compositions A2 and A2', 5 locks were colored according to the protocol described above.

For each of the compositions A2 and A2', 5 experts evaluated the rinsability according to the protocol detailed above, each expert evaluating the rinsability of a lock.

It was found that the locks treated with composition A2 according to the invention were rinsed after 4 passages under water, whereas the locks treated with comparative composition A2′ are rinsed only after 8 passages under water.

The composition A2 according to the invention has a markedly improved rinsability compared to the comparative composition A2′.

Thus, the composition A2 according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the rinsing time and the quantity of water necessary for optimal rinsing compared to the comparative composition A2′.

In addition, it can be seen from the touch of the locks that the composition A2 according to the invention provides more care than the comparative composition A2' immediately after rinsing, but also after drying the locks with a hair dryer. Composition A2 according to the invention leads to a touch close and equivalent to that obtained with a conventional care product, whereas comparative composition A2′ leads to a crisp feel of the locks without a care touch. Moreover, when the composition A2 according to the invention is mixed with the oxidant, a homogeneous mixture is obtained much more quickly and easily than when the comparative composition A2′ is mixed with the oxidant. The mixture of composition A2 and oxidant spreads much more easily on the locks than the mixture of comparative composition A2' with the oxidant.

Claims (18)

Cosmetic composition, preferably aqueous, comprising:
- 12-hydroxystearic acid,
- one or more organic amines,
- one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa), and
- optionally one or more dyes. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the 12-hydroxystearic acid is present in an amount varying from 0.1 to 40% by weight, better still from 1 to 30% by weight, and better still from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the organic amine(s) are chosen from alkanolamines, guanidine carbonate and mixtures thereof, and better still from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, guanidine carbonate and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic amine(s) are present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 2 to 8 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or substances that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa) are chosen from liquid C6-C16 alkanes , liquid hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils of the triglyceride type, liquid synthetic triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof . Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty substance or substances that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa) are chosen from vaseline oil, liquid C6 alkanes -C16, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof and even more preferentially from vaseline oil, liquid C6-C16 alkanes, polydecenes. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or substances which are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa) are present in an amount ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 15% to 80% by weight, better still from 15% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes, preferably from para-phenylenediamines, para-aminophenols, pyrazole derivatives, meta- phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the colorant or colorants represent from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises water in an amount ranging from 5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, better still from 15 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more alkaline agents other than organic amines, preferably chosen from ammonia, sodium or potassium hydroxides, sodium carbonate or potassium, sodium or potassium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that the alkaline agent or agents other than organic amines is or are present in an amount varying from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20 % by weight, and better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Process for the preparation of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising:
- the mixture of 12-hydroxystearic acid, one or more organic amines and optionally water at a temperature ranging from 60 to 80 ° C,
- the addition to the mixture of one or more liquid fats at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa),
- Cooling the mixture to room temperature (25°C). Ready-to-use composition resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of a cosmetic composition (A) according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, and an oxidizing composition (B). Ready-to-use composition according to Claim 14, characterized in that the oxidizing composition (B) comprises one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide, in particular in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, better still from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (B). Multi-compartment device, or keratin fiber staining kit, comprising at least two compartments:
- a first compartment containing a composition (A) according to any one of claims 1 to 12; And
- a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition (B) as defined in claim 14 or 15. Process for dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to the said fibers of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12. Process for dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the step of applying to said fibers a ready-to-use composition according to claim 14 or 15.