FR3130576A1 - Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising vanillin or one of its derivatives, a nonionic surfactant, and optionally at least one additional antimicrobial - Google Patents

Abstract

Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising vanillin or one of its derivatives, a nonionic surfactant, and optionally at least one additional antimicrobial The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising water and: i) at least one ( C1-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, as well as its organic or inorganic base salts, and its solvates such as hydrates; ii) at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from the compounds of formula (I), and iii) optionally at least one additional antimicrobial. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising vanillin or one of its derivatives, a nonionic surfactant, and optionally at least one additional antimicrobial

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising water and:

i) at least one (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or inorganic base salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates,

ii) at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from the compounds of formula (I), and

iii) optionally at least one additional antimicrobial.

Microorganisms can survive and multiply in products containing water, whether cosmetic, pharmaceutical or food. Preservatives are generally added to industrial preparations intended to be stored or preserved to prevent microbial growth over time.

Microbial contamination can occur during the manufacture of industrial products, even when the starting ingredients put into said products are "clean", i.e. free of contaminating microorganisms. Water, for example, which is ubiquitous in most cosmetic, pharmaceutical or food products, must be free of contaminating microorganisms. Other ingredients should also be screened for the presence of contaminating microorganisms.

Cleanliness during the manufacture of these industrial products, the processing of contents and the filling of containers must be scrupulously monitored. Despite these precautions, the microbial integrity of the products may require the presence of one or more preservatives compatible with the product and the stability of the composition. Preservatives should not support the growth or viability of contaminating microorganisms.

Although demanding production in a sterile environment may be industrially feasible, the maintenance of sterility over repeated uses is in itself a problem, in particular when the product can be touched with fingers and/or instruments such as applicators. , and/or that its container can be opened and closed, because all these manipulations are a source of contamination.

The use of preservatives is thus customary to reduce microbial contamination brought by consumers under normal conditions of use. As a general rule, pathogenic microorganisms must be absent from all marketed products, particularly cosmetics.

The compounds useful for the microbial protection of compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, must also be stable, in order to guarantee their effectiveness over time and not have characteristics of solubility, odor and/or compatibility which make them difficult to use. It is also desirable to diversify the compounds that can be used for antimicrobial protection so as not to generate resistance.

There is therefore a need for new ingredients or new mixtures of ingredients which are effective in the antimicrobial protection of compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, which are stable, easily formulated and which generate neither odor nor color after incorporation into said compositions, in particular after several months of storage at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C, in particular between 37°C and 45°C.

In addition, there is also a need to formulate compositions which comprise several antimicrobials, which remain stable over time, and which in particular do not change in appearance and/or color over time, even after several weeks or even several months. storage at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C, in particular between 37°C and 45°C. It is particularly important that the composition does not change color over time, especially for light cosmetic compositions such as very light or lightening foundation creams, care creams (often white) and other compositions applied to the skin or hair. . Indeed for consumers, the change in color can be a sign that the assets have changed and that the product has become unfit for consumption. The use of vanillin in composition is problematic because it is an ingredient which can change color over time, to dark brown, more or less quickly depending on its environment, in particular temperature, oxygen , and/or light.

The present invention meets these needs.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has identified mixtures of compounds i) and ii) exhibiting clear antimicrobial efficacy. These specific mixtures remain stable even after several weeks, or even several months, at room temperature or even at temperatures above 25°C, in particular between 37°C and 45°C.

Moreover, such mixtures do not exhibit a bad odor over time. In addition, no noticeable change in odor over time was noted even after several weeks of storage.

The present invention thus relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising water and:

1. at least one (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or inorganic base salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates;
2. at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and their acid or base salts, organic or inorganic, their optical isomers, and their solvates:

[Chem 1]

R ₁ -C(O)-N(H)-CH(R ₂ )-C(O)-OR ₃ (I)

Formula (I) in which:

- R ₁ represents a (C ₆ -C ₂₀ )alkyl group;

- R ₂ represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group optionally substituted by a guanidine group optionally substituted by one or more (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl groups; And

- R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group, and

1. optionally at least one additional antimicrobial, preferably chosen from:

• C ₂ to C ₆ alkanols,
• C ₂ to C ₁₀ polyols,
• pyridines substituted in position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- and their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a group (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl such as methyl or ethyl, (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkenyl such as allyl, (hetero)aryl(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl such as benzyl or pycolyl, and
• their mixtures.

The combination of i), ii) and possibly iii) corresponds to the antimicrobial mixture.

The invention also relates to a process for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up and/or cleaning keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates to a method for preserving a composition C1 comprising a physiologically acceptable medium comprising water, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition C1, which comprises the incorporation of the compounds i) and ii) and optionally iii) according to the invention in said composition C1. By “physiologically acceptable medium”, is meant a medium compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes and/or the superficial body growths (including keratin fibres, in particular human fibres, such as the hair).

The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as an antimicrobial agent, in particular against bacterial strains (for example Enterococcus faecalis ) , yeasts (for example Candida albicans ) and/or molds (eg Aspergillus brasiliensis ) .

i) Vanillin and alkoxylated derivative

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)vanillin or one of its organic or mineral base salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates.

By “(C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)vanillin” is meant vanillin ie 3-methoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde and its derivatives comprising a (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl group in place of the methyl of the methoxy in position 3 of 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde.

More specifically, the (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)vanillin of the invention has the following formula (II):

(II)

Formula (II) in which R'' represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl.

A "(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group" is a saturated C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably C ₁ -C ₄ ((C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group) such as methyl or ethyl.

The (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral base salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, can be of natural or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment of the invention, (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or inorganic base salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, is (are) in the form of organic base salts or mineral, such as alkali metal salts (Na ⁺ , K ⁺ ), alkaline-earth metal salts (Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ ) and ammonium ions. It(s) can be of natural or synthetic origin.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an amount of (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral base salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, of between 0.01% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

ii) Nonionic surfactant

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from the compounds of formula (I) as well as their acid or base, organic or mineral salts, their optical isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates:

[Chem 1]

R ₁ -C(O)-N(H)-CH(R ₂ )-C(O)-OR ₃ (I)

Formula (I) in which:

- R ₁ represents a (C ₆ -C ₂₀ )alkyl group;

- R ₂ represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group optionally substituted by a guanidine group optionally substituted by one or more (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl groups; And

- R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group.

The term "organic or mineral acid salt" means more particularly the salts chosen from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H ₂ SO ₄ , iv ) alkylsulphonic acids: Alk-S(O) ₂ OH such as methylsulphonic acid and ethylsulphonic acid; v) arylsulphonic acids: Ar—S(O) ₂ OH such as benzene sulphonic acid and toluene sulphonic acid; vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid, x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid H ₃ PO ₄ ; xiii) acetic acid CH ₃ C(O)OH; and xiv) triflic acid CF ₃ SO ₃ H and xv) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF ₄ .

By "organic or mineral base salt" is meant the salts of bases or alkaline agents as defined below such as alkali metal hydroxides such as soda, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

A “(C ₆ -C ₂₀ )alkyl group” is a saturated C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably C ₁ -C ₆ ((C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group), more preferably C ₁ -C ₄ ((C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group) such as methyl or ethyl.

Preferably, in formula (I), R ₁ represents a (C ₆ -C ₂₀ )alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably linear, more particularly R ₁ represents a (C ₈ -C ₁₂ )alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably linear.

Preferably, in formula (I), R ₂ represents a hydrogen atom.

Alternatively, preferably, in formula (I), R ₂ represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group, preferably substituted by a guanidine group optionally substituted by one or more (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl groups. According to this embodiment, R ₂ is substituted by a guanidine –NH-C(=NH)-NH ₂ group.

Preferably, in formula ( I) , R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom.

Alternatively, preferably, in formula ( I) , R ₃ represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group.

Preferably, the compound of formula ( I) is chosen from laurylethyl arginate and N-octanoyl glycine (also called capryloyl glycine), preferably N-octanoyl glycine.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a quantity of nonionic surfactant of formula (I) , preferably capryloyl glycine, of between 0.01% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

iii) Additional antimicrobial

The composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one additional antimicrobial A.

Thus, said additional antimicrobial A is not (C₁-VS₆)(alkyl)vanillin nor its salts and/or its solvates i), nor is it the nonionic surfactant of formula(I) ii) as previously defined.

By "antimicrobial agent" or "antimicrobial" or "preservative" or "preservative" is meant any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable compound, which makes it possible to prevent the growth of microorganisms which may occur in the compositions, in particular cosmetic or pharmaceutical, from their design, through storage, to their traditional use by consumers. As preservative, mention may in particular be made of the preservatives described in Cosmetics, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology. John Wiley & Sons, Inc. Martin M. Rieger; 5.2 condoms & table 3, 04/12/2000 https://doi.org/10.1002/0471238961.0315191318090507.a01 or https://library.essentialwholesale.com/alcohol/.

Preferably, the additional antimicrobial A can be chosen from sodium dehydroacetate; benzene carboxylic acids optionally substituted on the phenyl group by one or more groups chosen from hydroxy, (C ₁ -C ₁₀ )alkyl and (C ₁ -C ₁₀ )alkylacarbonyl, as well as their base salts, in particular of alkali metals and alkaline- earthy, preferably benzoic acid or sodium benzoate; hydroxybenzoic acid esters optionally substituted on the phenyl group by one or more groups chosen from (C ₁ -C ₁₀ )alkyl such as parabens, in particular methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben or butylparaben; potassium sorbate; salicylic acid optionally substituted with a (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylcarbonyl group, preferably salicylic acid; chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorphenesin, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzyl alcohol, myrtrimonium bromide, LAE (Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate HCl), phenoxyethanol, octopirox, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, alkanols C ₂ to C ₆ , C ₂ to C ₁₀ polyols, pyridines substituted in position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- and their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different , representing a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkenyl such as allyl, (hetero)aryl(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl such as benzyl or pycolyl and mixtures thereof.

Quite preferably, said additional antimicrobial A iii) is chosen from C ₂ to C ₆ alkanols, C ₂ to C ₁₀ polyols, pyridines substituted in position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O) - and their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkenyl such as allyl, (hetero)aryl(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl such as benzyl or pycolyl, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the C ₂ to C ₆ alkanol is a C ₂ to C ₆ aliphatic monoalcohol. Preferably, said aliphatic monoalcohol comprises from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

The term “aliphatic monoalcohol” means any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound having a single hydroxyl group (OH). The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof. More particularly, ethanol will be chosen.

The term "polyol" means any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms substituted by at least 2 hydroxyl functions and optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S, in particular O, preferably 2 to 4 hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the polyol comprises from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the polyol(s) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms are chosen from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, heptane diols, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, more preferably glycerol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the additional antimicrobial A iii) is chosen from pyridines substituted in position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- as well as their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R ', identical or different representing a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkenyl such as allyl, (hetero)aryl(C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl or pycolyl, preferably R and R′ represent a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, the pyridine substituted in position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- of the invention is niacinamide, also called vitamin B3, of formula (II I ) :

(III) or one of its solvates such as hydrates.

Preferably, the additional antimicrobial A is a mixture of niacinamide and of at least one C ₂ to C ₁₀ polyol and/or of at least one C ₂ to C ₆ alkanol.

Preferably, the additional antimicrobial A is chosen from ethanol, glycerol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, niacinamide and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the additional antimicrobial A is a mixture of glycerol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and niacinamide.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C ₂ to C ₆ alkanol and/or one C ₂ to C ₁₀ polyol in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. , preferably from 1.5% to 13% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises pyridine substituted in position 3 by an amide group RR'N-C(O)- or one of its solvates in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight with respect to to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight.

composition pH

The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 10 approximately, preferably between 3 and 8 approximately, preferably between 4 and 7 approximately, and preferably between 4 and 6, preferably between 4.2 and 5 Preferably, the pH of the composition is about 4.6.

It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkaline agents usually used for the treatment of keratin materials or even by means of conventional buffer systems.

Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids as defined above, in particular those i) to xv) of “organic or mineral acid salt”. In particular, the acidifying agent is chosen from hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid and acids sulfonic.

By “ alkaline agent ” or “ base ” is meant an agent making it possible to increase the pH of the composition in which it is found. The alkalizing agent is a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base. It can be mineral or organic. In particular, said agent is chosen from a) ammonia, b) (bi)carbonate, c) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives d) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, e) organic amines, f) mineral or organic hydroxides, g) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, h) preferably basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and l hystidine, and i) the compounds of formula (F) below:

[Chem 4]:

Formula (F) in which:

- W is a divalent C ₁ -C ₆ alkylene radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups or a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O or NR _u ;

- R _x , R _y , R _z and R _t , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl or C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or C ₁ -C ₆ aminoalkyl radical.

Mention may be made, by way of example of amines of formula ( F ) , of 1,3 diaminopropane, 1,3 diamino 2-propanol, spermine, spermidine.

By “ alkanolamine ” is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

Among the inorganic or organic hydroxides, mention may be made of those chosen from a) the hydroxides of an alkali metal, b) the hydroxides of an alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, c) the hydroxides of a transition metal, d) hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide, inorganic or organic hydroxides a) and b) being preferred.

Among the bases or alkaline agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of the alkaline agents as described below and in particular the natural alkaline agents, in particular the preferably basic amino acids such as arginine.

iv) Fats

The composition also optionally comprises one or more fatty substances.

By “ fatty substance ”, is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably still 1% more preferably at 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petroleum jelly or decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substance(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, more preferably of vegetable origin. These fatty substances are preferably neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated. They are different from fatty acids because salified fatty acids are generally soluble soaps in aqueous media.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more fatty substances which are not liquid at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

The wax(es)

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

By " wax " is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120°C.

In particular, the wax(es) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a content of wax(es) ranging from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 15%, more particularly from 6 to 15%.

According to a particular form of the invention, the composition of the invention is solid, in particular anhydrous. It can then be in the form of a stick, polyethylene micro-waxes will be used in the form of crystallites with a form factor at least equal to 2 having a melting point ranging from 70 to 110 ° C and preferably 70 to 100 ° C, in order to reduce or even eliminate the presence of strata in the solid composition.

The pasty compound(s)

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more pasty compounds .

By “ pasty compound ” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change, exhibiting in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23° C. a fraction liquid and a solid fraction.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more fatty substances that are liquid at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure, particularly hydrocarbon-based.

Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises one or more liquid hydrocarbon fatty substances which are chosen in particular from hydrocarbons and C ₆ -C ₁₆ or more than 16 carbon atoms up to 60 carbon atoms, preferably between C ₆ and C ₁₆ , and in particular alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin, glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and/or fatty alcohol, silicones.

In particular, the liquid fatty substance or substances are chosen from non-silicone oils.

It is recalled that within the meaning of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids have more particularly one or more hydrocarbon group(s), linear(s) or branched(s), saturated or unsaturated (s), comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more OH hydroxyl group(s) (in particular by 1 to 4 hydroxyl group(s). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three unsaturation(s) preferably from 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

With regard to C alkanes₆-VS₁₆, the latter are linear or branched, optionally cyclic, preferably the fatty substance(s) iv) of the invention are chosen from alkanes, linear or branched, C₈-VS₁₄, more preferably in C₉-VS₁₃Again more preferably in C₉-VS₁₂. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane or isododecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms can be chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty substance(s) iv) are hydrocarbon oils, linear or branched, which are volatile, chosen in particular from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixture of different, volatile oils preferably comprising isododecane in the mixture, or a mixture of undecane and tridecane, preferably a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

Advantageously, the composition comprises one or more fatty substances, in particular liquid at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure, preferably one or more oils, of the fatty medium, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight.

v) Additional surfactants

Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises one or more surfactants v) different from ii), preferably nonionic, in particular chosen from (poly)alkoxylated fatty alcohols, preferably (poly)glycerolated.

The (poly)alkoxylated fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from alcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The (poly)alkoxylated fatty alcohol(s) are preferably of the following formula (IV): [Chem 5]

R ^a -[O-ALK] _n -OH (IV)

Formula (IV) in which:

• R^Torepresenting a linear or branched alkyl group or a linear or branched C alkenyl group₈-VS₄₀preferably in C₈-VS₃₀optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; And
• ALK represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylene group, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, preferably (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylene groups, such as ethylene;
• n represents an integer comprised inclusively between 1 and 200, preferentially between 2 and 50, more particularly comprised inclusively between 8 and 30 such as 20.

According to a particular embodiment, the compounds of formula (IV) are chosen from mono or polyglycerolated, preferably polyglycerolated, they preferably contain on average from 1 to 40 glycerol groups, more particularly from 10 to 30 glycerol groups such as 20.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the surfactants v) are monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formulas:

[Chem 6]

RO[CH ₂ CH(CH ₂ OH)O] _m H (IVa),

RO[CH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ O] _m H (IVb) or

RO[CH(CH ₂ OH)CH ₂ O] _m H (IVc) ;

Formulas (IVa) to (IVc) in which:

- R represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms;

- m is a number between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10, more particularly from 1.5 to 6. R can optionally comprise heteroatoms such as for example oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R may optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl and/or ether and/or amide groups. R preferably denotes C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ alkyl and/or alkenyl radicals, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated. More preferably, the surfactants v) are polyglycerolated and chosen from Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and mixtures thereof.

According to another embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (IV) are chosen from fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and oxy(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylenated with 1 to 30 moles of alkylene oxide .

Preferably, the additional surfactant(s) v) are chosen from (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of the following formula:

[Chem 7]

R ^a -[O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ] _n -OH (IV')

Formula (IV') in which:

• R^Torepresenting a linear or branched alkyl or linear or branched C alkenyl group₈-VS₄₀preferably in C₈-VS₃₀optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups And
• n represents an integer comprised inclusively between 1 and 200, preferentially between 2 and 50, more particularly comprised inclusively between 8 and 30 such as 20.

More particularly the surfactant(s) v) are chosen from (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; more particularly fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO). Among them, we can mention more particularly lauryl alcohol 2 EO, lauryl alcohol 3 EO, decyl alcohol 3 EO, decyl alcohol 5 EO and oleic alcohol 20 EO.

It is also possible to use a mixture of at least 2 different (poly)alkoxylated fatty alcohols, preferably of at least 2 different (poly)glycerolated fatty alcohols, more preferably chosen from the mixture of polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate.

The water

The composition comprises an aqueous phase, i.e. also comprises water.

Water can constitute the continuous or dispersed phase.

The composition preferably comprises from 1% to 98% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably from 15% to 65% by weight.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a quantity of fatty substances greater than the quantity by weight of water.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a quantity by weight of water greater than the quantity of fatty substances.

Galenic

The compositions of the invention can be presented in different dosage forms, such as aqueous gels, direct (O/W) or inverse (W/O) emulsions, multiple emulsions (O/W/O or W/O/W) or dispersions, where the aqueous phase is the continuous or dispersed phase.

The compositions of the invention may be in the form of a dermatological or skincare composition, or else in the form of a sun protection composition. It is then presented in an uncoloured form, optionally containing cosmetic or dermatological active agents different from the compounds i) to iii). It can then be used as a care base for the skin or the lips.

The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored skin makeup product, in particular a foundation, a blush, a blusher or an eyeshadow, or a lip makeup product such as a lipstick. lips or eyelash or eyebrow make-up such as mascara.

The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored or uncolored hair product, in particular a conditioner, a care cream, or else in the form of a deodorant.

The compositions according to the invention can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, of a foam. They can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick or a compact powder.

Additional ingredients

The compositions of the invention may also comprise one or more additional ingredients chosen from: a) gelling agents; b) film-forming or non-film-forming polymers; c) thickening or non-thickening polymers; d) coloring matter such as pigments, natural or synthetic direct dyes; e) fillers such as synthetic or non-synthetic micas; f) UV filters; g) surfactants other than ii); h) natural or synthetic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as plant extracts; i) perfumes; j) sequestering or chelating agents; k) as well as their salts or their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises one or more dyestuffs, preferably d) one or more pigments; more preferentially the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, titanium oxides and iron oxides, in particular black, and micas coated with iron oxide, even more preferentially iron oxides and titanium oxide.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises one or more sequestering agents.

The sequestering agent(s) is (are) preferably chosen from the salts of formula ( V ) as well as their optical isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates:

[Chem 8]

[ ^- OC(O)-CH ₂ ] ₂ N-CH(COO ^- )-(CH ₂ ) ₂ -C(O)O ^- , nM ⁺ ( V )

Formula (V) in which:

• M ⁺ , identical or different, is chosen from H ⁺ , alkali metal cations, alkaline earth metal cations and ammonium ions, and
• n is an integer such that the number of M ⁺ ensures the electroneutrality of the molecule, preferably between 2 and 4, more particularly equal to 2 or 4.

Particularly when M ⁺ , identical or different, is chosen from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions, then n is equal to 4. When M ⁺ , identical or different, is chosen from alkaline earth metal cations, then n is equal to 2.

By "alkali metal cations" is meant in particular Na ⁺ and K ⁺ ions.

By "alkaline-earth metal cations" is meant in particular Mg ²⁺ and Ca ²⁺ ions.

Preferably, the M ⁺ cations are identical.

Preferably, M ⁺ is chosen from alkali metal cations.

Preferably, M ⁺ is Na ⁺ .

Preferably, the sequestering agent(s) have the formula ( V ′) as well as their isomers:

[Chem 9]

[ ^- OC(O)-CH ₂ ] ₂ N-CH(COO ^- )-(CH ₂ ) ₂ -C(O)O ^- , 4Na ⁺ ( V ')

This compound of formula ( V ') is tetrasodium glutamate diacetate. This compound is in particular marketed by Akzo Nobel under the name Dissolvine GL-47-S.

According to another embodiment, the sequestering agent is chosen from ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts. Ethylene diamine disuccinic acid is the compound of formula (VI) as well as their salts of organic or mineral bases, in particular mineral bases such as M ⁺ OH ^- with M ⁺ as defined above, their optical isomers and their solvates such as hydrates:

(VI).

Preferably, the ethylenediamine disuccinic acid salt is chosen from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. Alkali metal salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid are more particularly preferred.

Preferably, the salt of ethylene diamine disuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate. Such a compound is, for example, that sold under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals (dispersion of the compound at 37% by weight of active material in water), or else that sold under the name Octaquest ^E30® by the Octel Performance Chemicals company.

According to another embodiment, the sequestering agent is chosen from ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts. Preferably, the EDTA salt is chosen from alkali metal salts, such as sodium salts, in particular the disodium salt of tetraacetic ethylenediamine (disodium EDTA).

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a quantity of sequestering agent, in particular of formula (V) or EDDS or EDTA or their salts, of between 0.01% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 0.7% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 0.% by weight.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more fillers e) such as synthetic or non-synthetic micas, in particular synthetic Fluorphlogopite CAS No.: 12003-38-2.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a quantity of filler e), of between 0.05% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.

The invention is now illustrated by the following example.

Unless otherwise stated, the amounts are indicated in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of composition (% w/w).

EXAMPLE: FOUNDATION

DESCRIPTION OF THE ANTIMICROBIAL EFFICACY TEST PROTOCOL

The effectiveness of the mixture i) and ii) and optionally iii) according to the invention is evaluated by means of the challenge-test which makes it possible to determine the level of antimicrobial protection of a composition.

It consists of artificial contamination of the product to be tested by various micro-organisms (bacteria, yeasts and moulds) and monitoring of the number of viable germs over time.

A satisfactorily protected product must allow decontamination of the microorganisms introduced, more or less rapid decontamination depending on the microbial strains, the type of product and the packaging item.

The product is divided into as many pillboxes as there are microorganisms to be tested. A calibrated suspension of microorganisms is introduced into each of these pill dispensers.

The effectiveness of the protection of the formulas is tested on a limited microbial spectrum but chosen from among the species likely to contaminate the product, both during manufacture and during its use. It includes in this case a bacterium ( Enterococcus faecalis ), a yeast ( Candida albicans ) and a mold ( Aspergillus brasiliensis ).

The sample taken to count the microorganisms remaining in the product takes place after 7 days of contact between the product and the germ.

The dilutions carried out to carry out the counts are seeded on Petri dishes.

The kinetics (growth or decrease) for a given germ at a given time is then expressed in logarithmic reduction.

The acceptability criteria applied are those defined in appendix B (Evaluation criteria for the antimicrobial protection efficacy test) of standard ISO11930:2019 (Cosmetics – Microbiology – Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product ), reproduced below.

ISO11930:2019 Assessment Criteria

If the formulation meets criteria A, the microbiological risk is considered acceptable (the cosmetic product is protected against microbial proliferation that may present a potential risk for the user), and the cosmetic product meets the requirements of the ISO 11930:2019 Standard without additional justification.

For the evaluation of efficacy, only criteria A “T7” will be taken into consideration.

For the Aspergillus brasiliensis mould, the result of the challenge test obtained will be considered compliant if the criterion required after 28 days of product/germ contact is reached from 7 days of contact .

EVALUATION OF THE LEVEL OF PROTECTION OF A FOUNDATION

Compounds i), ii) and iii) are formulated in a foundation, a typical example of which has the following composition:

Composition 1 is according to the invention, while compositions 2 to 3 are comparative.

These compositions are prepared according to a conventional method for those skilled in the art.

Ingredients
(% w/w) Membership 1
Invention Composition 2 Comparative Membership 3
Comparative Vanillin i) 0.25 0 0.25 Capryloyl glycine ii) 0.5 0.5 0 Glycerol iii) 5 5 5 Magnesium sulfate 0.7 0.7 0.7 Undecane & Tridecane iv)
(Cetiol UT) 11 11 11 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate v) 1 1 1 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate v) 1 1 1 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
(Dissolvine GL-47-S from Akzo Nobel) 0.2 0 0 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite CAS No.: 12003-38-2 1.6 1.6 1.6 Titanium dioxide 12.4 12.4 12.4 iron oxides 2.44 2.44 2.44 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

The effectiveness of each composition 1 to 3 is evaluated by means of the challenge-test which makes it possible to determine the level of antimicrobial protection of a composition.

The results are detailed in the tables below.

ACTION ON A BACTERIA

The decay kinetics, expressed in logarithmic reductions, on the microbial strain Enterococcus faecalis after 7 days of germ/product contact are given in the table below:

Compositions Logarithmic reductions after 7 days of contact Composition 1 (invention) <4 Composition 2 (comparative) <4 Composition 3 (comparative) 0.4

ACTION ON YEAST

The results on the Candida albicans microbial strain after 7 days of germ/product contact are given in the table below:

Compositions Logarithmic reductions after 7 days of contact Composition 1 (invention) <4 Composition 2 (comparative) 0 Composition 3 (comparative) 2.5

ACTION ON MOLD

The results on the microbial strain Aspergillus brasiliensis after 7 days of germ/product contact are given in the table below:

Compositions Logarithmic reductions after 7 days of contact Composition 1 (invention) 3.3 Composition 2 (comparative) 0 Composition 3 (comparative) 4

The example shows that only the combination according to the invention allows effective antimicrobial protection.

It appears from the results of the tables above that the combination of vanillin and capryloyl glycine according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a mixture having excellent antimicrobial activity and provides a marked improvement in the level of microbiological protection, and this after 7 days. contact, in particular against the bacterium Enterococcus faecalis , the yeast Candida albicans and the mold Aspergillus brasiliensis .

For this same mixture, the level of decontamination observed on the 2 strains Enterococcus faecalis and Candida albicans complies with criterion A described in the ISO 11930: 2019 standard.

For the Aspergillus brasiliensis mould, the result is also considered to be compliant, because the required decontamination is achieved after 7 days of contact.

Claims (15)

Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising water and:

1. at least one (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or inorganic base salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates;
2. at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and their acid or base salts, organic or inorganic, their optical isomers, and their solvates:

R₁-C(O)-N(H)-CH(R)₂)-C(O)-OR₃ (I)
Formula(I)in which :
-R₁represents a group (C₆-VS₂₀)alkyl;
-R₂represents a hydrogen atom or a group (C₁-VS₆)alkyl optionally substituted by a guanidine group optionally substituted by one or more groups (C₁-VS₄)alkyl; And
-R₃represents a hydrogen atom or a group (C₁-VS₆)alkyl, and

1. optionally at least one additional antimicrobial, preferably chosen from C ₂ to C ₆ alkanols, C ₂ to C ₁₀ polyols, and pyridines substituted in position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- and their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl, (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkenyl, (hetero)aryl(C ₁ - C ₄ ) alkyl, and mixtures thereof.

Composition according to Claim 1, in which i) the (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)vanillin is of the following formula (II) :
(II)
Formula (II) in which R'' represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, comprising a quantity of (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral base salts or its solvates such as hydrates, of between 0.01% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a nonionic surfactant of formula (I) chosen from laurylethyl arginate and capryloyl glycine, preferably capryloyl glycine. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a nonionic surfactant of formula (I) in a content ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 1, 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one additional antimicrobial iii) chosen from polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, heptane diols, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, more preferentially glycerol. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, comprising at least one additional antimicrobial iii) chosen from pyridines substituted in position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- as well as their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R ', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkenyl such as allyl, (hetero)aryl(C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl or pycollyl, preferably R and R′ represent a hydrogen atom; preferably the pyridine(s) substituted in position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- is niacinamide. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising iv) at least one fatty substance, preferably liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure, particularly hydrocarbon-based which is chosen in particular from hydrocarbons and C ₆ -C ₁₆ or with more than 16 carbon atoms up to 60 carbon atoms, preferably between C ₆ and C ₁₆ , and in particular chosen from alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin, glycerides or oils fluorines of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, silicones; more preferentially the fatty substance iv) is chosen from alkanes, linear or branched, C ₈ -C ₁₄ , even more preferentially C ₉ -C ₁₃ better still C ₉ -C ₁₂ ; more particularly the fatty substance iv) is chosen from hydrocarbon oils, linear or branched, which are volatile, chosen in particular from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixtures of different, volatile oils, preferably comprising isododecane in the mixture, or a mixture of undecane and tridecane. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more surfactants v) different from ii), preferably nonionic, in particular chosen from (poly)alkoxylated fatty alcohols, particularly chosen from alcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; preferably of the following formula (IV):
R^To-[O-ALK]_not-OH(IV)
Formula (IV) in which:

• R ^a representing a linear or branched alkyl or linear or branched alkenyl group, preferably C ₈ -C ₄₀ , C ₈ -C ₃₀ , optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
• ALK represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylene group, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, preferably (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylene groups, such as ethylene; And
• n represents an integer comprised inclusively between 1 and 200, preferentially between 2 and 50, more particularly comprised inclusively between 8 and 30 such as 20.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising v) one or more monoglycerol or polyglycerol surfactants chosen from the compounds of the following formulas:
RO[CH ₂ CH(CH ₂ OH)O] _m H (IVa),
RO[CH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ O] _m H (IVb) or
RO[CH(CH ₂ OH)CH ₂ O] _m H (IVc) ;
Formulas (IVa) to (IVc) in which:
- R represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms;
- m is a number between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10, more particularly from 1.5 to 6; R may optionally comprise heteroatoms such as, for example, oxygen and nitrogen; in particular, R may optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl and/or ether and/or amide groups; R preferably denotes C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ alkyl and/or alkenyl radicals, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated;
more preferably the surfactants v) are polyglycerolated and chosen from polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and mixtures thereof Composition according to Claim 8, comprising a quantity by weight of water greater than the quantity of fatty substances. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more additional ingredients chosen from: a) gelling agents; b) film-forming or non-film-forming polymers; c) thickening or non-thickening polymers; d) coloring matter such as pigments, natural or synthetic direct dyes; e) fillers such as synthetic or non-synthetic micas; f) UV filters; g) surfactants other than ii); h) natural or synthetic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as plant extracts; i) perfumes; j) sequestering or chelating agents; k) as well as their salts or their mixtures;
particularly one or more dyestuffs d) preferably one or more pigments; more preferentially the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, titanium oxides and iron oxides, in particular black iron, and micas coated with iron oxide, even more preferentially iron oxides and titanium oxide;
particularly one or more sequestering agents preferably chosen from the salts of formula (V) as well as their solvates such as the hydrates:
[ ^- OC(O)-CH ₂ ] ₂ N-CH(COO ^- )-(CH ₂ ) ₂ -C(O)O ^- , nM ⁺ (V)
Formula (V) in which M ⁺ , identical or different, is chosen from H ⁺ , alkali metal cations, alkaline earth metal cations and ammonium ions, and n is an integer such that the number of M ⁺ ensures the electroneutrality of the molecule, preferably between 2 and 4, more particularly equal to 2 or 4; preferably, the sequestering agent is tetrasodium glutamate diacetate;
particularly one or more fillers e) such as synthetic or non-synthetic micas, in particular synthetic Fluorphlogopite. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which has a pH of between 3 and 10, preferably between 3 and 8, preferably between 4 and 6, and preferably between 4 and 5.5. Method for preserving a composition C1 comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition C1, which comprises incorporating a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 13 into said composition C1. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 13 for its use as an antimicrobial agent, in particular against bacterial strains (for example Enterococcus faecalis ) , yeasts (for example Candida albicans ) and/or molds (eg Aspergillus brasiliensis ) .