FR3127400A1 - Process for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibers comprising a step for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibers and a step for treating the keratin fibers with a composition comprising at least one vegetable oil. - Google Patents

Abstract

Process for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibers comprising a step for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibers and a step for treating the keratin fibers with a composition comprising at least one vegetable oil. The invention relates to a process for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising a step of dyeing and/or lightening the keratin fibers implementing a step of treating the hair with a composition comprising at least a vegetable oil.

Description

Process for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibers comprising a step for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibers and a step for treating the keratin fibers with a composition comprising at least one vegetable oil.

The invention relates to a process for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising a step of dyeing and/or lightening the keratin fibers implementing a step of treating the keratin fibers with a composition comprising at least one vegetable oil.

For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their white hair.

It is known to dye keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, to obtain so-called permanent colorings with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, can give rise by a process of oxidative condensation to colored compounds.

It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors. This type of coloring also makes it possible to obtain permanent coloring, but the use of oxidizing agents can lead to the degradation of keratin fibres.

To remedy these drawbacks, a treatment is generally applied after the coloring and/or lightening step in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair. The care compositions to be used after the coloring and/or lightening step on the market generally include silicones. However, consumers are looking for products that are more respectful of the environment but which provide at least equivalent hair care.

Furthermore, the permanent coloring processes consist in using, with the dye composition containing the oxidation dyes, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. The alkaline agent conventionally used is aqueous ammonia or can be chosen from other alkaline agents, such as alkanolamines.

Recently, coloring formulations have been developed with higher levels of fatty substances than the compositions hitherto on the market. These formulations provide many advantages, in particular in that they make it possible to reduce the ammonia content, thus providing a very clear improvement in the comfort of the user (less unpleasant odor and less risk of stinging), without observing any reduction dyeing performance, or even increasing it.

However, such formulations do not always give complete satisfaction in terms of cosmetic properties of the hair either.

There is a need to provide consumers with a process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, in particular the hair, leading to very good dyeing and/or lightening properties, while minimizing discomfort during the application, while respecting the integrity of said fibers and leading to very good cosmetic properties, without using silicones.

The objective of the present invention is therefore to improve the care qualities of coloring and/or lightening processes and in particular of those using compositions comprising high levels of fatty substances, while maintaining good dyeing performance. and/or lightening of such compositions, without using silicones.

These aims and others are achieved by the present invention, the subject of which is therefore a process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibers comprising:
a) a step of applying a composition (A) comprising:
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
- at least one oxidizing agent; And
b) a step of applying a composition (B) comprising at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition ( B) .

According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is a method for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular the hair.

According to this embodiment, the process for dyeing keratin fibers comprises:
a) a step of applying a composition (A) comprising:
- at least one alkaline agent,
- at least one oxidation dye,
- at least one oxidizing agent; And
b) a step of applying a composition (B) comprising at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition ( B) .

The method according to the invention makes it possible, in particular, to obtain a smooth feel, hair that is easier to detangle, with a contribution of shine.

Furthermore, the process according to the invention makes it possible to produce chromatic colorations that are powerful, intense and not very selective, that is to say colorations that are homogeneous along the fiber. It also makes it possible to achieve different shades in a very wide color palette. In addition, it allows a good rise of the color.

The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition comprising at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye, in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent and in a third compartment a composition comprising at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

By “ chemical oxidizing agent ” according to the invention is meant an oxidizing agent other than the oxygen in the air.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from … to …”.

Furthermore, the expression “ at least one ” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “ one or more ”.

Membership (A)

Composition (A) comprises at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye, and at least one oxidizing agent.

According to a particular embodiment, composition (A) also comprises one or more fatty substances other than acids, the fatty substance(s) preferably being present in an amount greater than or equal to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition ( A) .

Fatty substances other than fatty acids

Composition (A) useful according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids.

The term “ fatty substance ” is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.

“Non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing no Si—O bonds and “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si—O bond.

By “ oil ” is meant a “ fatty substance ” which is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The term " non-silicone oil " means an oil containing no silicon (Si) atom and a " silicone oil " means an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

More particularly, the fatty substance or substances are chosen from liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of the triglyceride type of vegetable origin or synthetic, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, fatty acid esters and fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, non-silicone waxes and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids have more particularly at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by a or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As regards the C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, the latter can be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

The hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam ®, and mixtures thereof.

As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else, for example, sunflower oils, corn oils , soy, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, with more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam® .

As regards the fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by the company 3M.

The fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol. .

As regards the esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of the esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear C1 to C26 and of aliphatic mono or polyalcohols saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate , mirystyl, stearyl hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use the esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ di or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols and the esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols. C ₂ -C ₂₆ di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and di-esters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and derivatives thereof. in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and fatty acids C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or their mixtures such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, the mono- and di-esters and in particular the mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof, are used.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Mention may also be made, by way of examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid sugar esters:
- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively designating sucrose palmito-stearates formed of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, of 61 % monoester and 39% di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, and sucrose monolaurate;
- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester;
- sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

The non-silicone wax or waxes are chosen in particular from Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax , hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as essential blackcurrant flower wax sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ; other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes such as that sold by the company SOPHIM under the reference M82, polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from compounds that are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the fatty substance is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

The fatty substances present in composition (A) are advantageously chosen from C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes, hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s ) present in composition (A ) is or are chosen from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of plant origin or mixtures thereof.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, composition (A) comprises petroleum jelly.

Preferably, composition (A) does not comprise silicone fatty substances.

Preferably, composition (A) comprises at least 20% by weight of fatty substances other than fatty acids, more preferably the total content of fatty substances different from fatty acids varies from 20 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 65 % by weight, and better still from 30 to 60% by weight, even better still from 30 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

alkaline agent

Composition (A) useful according to the present invention may also comprise one or more alkaline, mineral(s), organic(s) or hybrid agent(s).

Preferably, the composition (A) useful according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the terms “ alkaline agent ” or “ alkalizing agent ” are used interchangeably.

The inorganic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline metal phosphates. earth metals such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

The organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radicals, which may or may not be identical, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino- methane and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are chosen, preferably, from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline.

The organic amine can also be chosen from organic amines of the heterocyclic type. Mention may in particular be made, in addition to the histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type different from arginine which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.)

As hybrid compounds, it is possible in particular to use guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.

The alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, plus preferably from alkanolamines and ammonia, more preferably from alkalonamines, even better, monoethanolamine.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonia.

The total content of the alkaline agent(s), when present, preferably varies from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight. , even better from 1.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A) .

According to a particular embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably of monoethanolamine, preferably varies from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition is between 8 and 13; preferably between 8.5 and 12, more preferably between 9 and 11.

The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) usually used in dyeing keratin fibres, such as those described above, or even using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

Oxidation dye

Composition (A) useful according to the invention may comprise one or more oxidation dyes.

Preferably, the composition (A) useful according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dyes.

The oxidation dyes can be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.

Preferably, the oxidation dye or dyes are chosen from oxidation bases.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.

Oxidation bases can be present as salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts.

The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and/or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₄ alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts.

Among the para-phenylenediamines which may be mentioned are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis( β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(ß-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 -fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine , N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N -(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl )-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and salts of addition, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine , 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3 -dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.

Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned are, for example, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N ,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl )-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'- amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

Among the para-aminophenols which are mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino- 3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β- hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the salts of corresponding addition, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

Among the heterocyclic bases which may be mentioned are, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described for example in patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3 -aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in the application of patent FR 2 801 308. Examples which may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin- 4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3- ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3- aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine , 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid- 3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino ]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin- 6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

More particularly, the oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are chosen from the 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on the carbon atom 2 by:
a) a (di)(C1-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino or imidazolium group;
b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more (C1-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(C1-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; Or
c) a (C1-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a β-hydroxyalkoxy group and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triamino -pyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl )pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4 -amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5 -diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl )amino-1-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and/or solvates of the salts. It is also possible to use 4,5-diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.

A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or salt solvate.

The pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino -3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1, 2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)- 1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2 -amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4- amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H -pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one their salts, their solvates and/or solvates of their salts.

2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or salt solvate will preferably be used.

Preferably, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1 will be used. -one and/or 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or salt solvate as heterocyclic bases.

Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and /or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from among and para-aminophenols and para-phenylenediamines, in particular para-toluenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl- para-phenylenediamine the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts; and their mixtures.

When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, preferably, the oxidation base(s) is (are) present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%, even better, from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

The oxidation dye(s) can also be chosen from one or more couplers, which can be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.

Among the useful couplers according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts. , the solvates and solvates of their salts.

Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4- chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(ß-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(ß-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1 ,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(ß-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1, 5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, 2 -methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(ß–hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates, the solvates of the salts and the corresponding mixtures.

Preferably, the coupler(s) is (are) chosen from 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-(ß- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(ß-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(ß-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol , 3-aminophenol, hydroxy-6-indole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates, the solvates of the salts and the corresponding mixtures.

In general, the addition salts of couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as soda, potash, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and/or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

When the composition comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight. , better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.015 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.02 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A) .

Preferably, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.02 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

Oxidizing agent

Composition (A) useful according to the present invention comprises one or more oxidizing agents.

It should be noted that the oxidizing agents present in composition (A) are different from the oxygen in the air.

In particular, the oxidizing agent(s) suitable for the present invention are, for example, chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulphates, perborates , peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates. Advantageously, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

Preferably, the total content of oxidizing agents preferably varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A) .

Membership (B)

Composition (B) useful according to the invention comprises one or more vegetable oil(s), preferably chosen from vegetable triglyceride oils, the total content of vegetable oils being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B) .

Among the vegetable triglyceride oils, mention may be made of sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils. , babassu, olive, coconut, brazil nut, marula, flax, coriander, rapeseed, borage, evening primrose, pomegranate, mango, palm, cottonseed , camellia, shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the vegetable oil present in composition (B) is chosen from coconut oil, soybean oil, more preferably coconut oil.

According to a particular embodiment, composition (B) comprises several vegetable oils in a content greater than or equal to 0.3%, at least one of the vegetable oils being coconut oil.

Composition (B) may also comprise at least one fatty substance different from fatty acids as described above and different from vegetable oils as described above.

In particular, composition (B) may comprise one or more fatty substances chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty esters or mixtures thereof as described above, preferably from fatty alcohols.

Preferably, composition (B) comprises, in addition to a vegetable oil or oils, at least one fatty substance chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty esters or mixtures thereof as described previously, preferably fatty alcohols.

Preferably, composition (B) does not comprise silicone fatty substances.

The total content of the vegetable oil(s) in composition (B) preferably varies from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B) .

The total content of coconut oil in composition (B) preferably varies from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , even better from 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B) .

The total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids and vegetable oils in composition (B) preferably varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and better still from 3 to 10% by weight, even better from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

Preferably, the vegetable oil(s) and the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids are found in a mass ratio comprised between 1:20 and 1:2, preferably comprised between 1:15 and 1:3, more preferentially comprised between 1:10 and 1:5.

Surfactants

The composition (A) useful according to the present invention can comprise one or more surfactants. These can be chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition (A) useful according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants.

The composition (B) useful according to the present invention can comprise one or more surfactants.

These can be chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition (B) useful according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants.

The term “ anionic surfactant ” is understood to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO22-, POH and PO-.

As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride-sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(C1-C4)-N -acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether acids -carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids; salts of fatty acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise mentioned) generally comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally designating a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C ₆ -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates ₂₄ and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular of amino alcohols or salts of alkaline-earth metals such as the magnesium salt.

By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may in particular be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, that is to say without sulphate function.

As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and carboxylic alkylpolyglycoside esters.

Very particularly, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO) marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

The anionic surfactants optionally present can be chosen from carboxylic acids comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, also called fatty acids, optionally in salified form.

For the purposes of the present invention, fatty acid means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms. of carbon, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

The carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms (or fatty acids) according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated; in particular, they are not (poly)oxyethylene or (poly)oxypropylene.

They preferably have the structure R—COOH in which R denotes an alkyl or alkenyl group, linear or branched, C ₇ -C ₂₉ , preferably C ₉ -C ₂₃ , better still C ₉ -C ₁₇ .

Preferably, the fatty acid according to the invention is chosen from linear fatty acids, better still from linear unsaturated fatty acids, C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ , in particular C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ (R is a linear C ₉ alkenyl -C ₂₃ , even C ₉ -C ₁₇ ).

Mention may in particular be made of oleic, linoleic, linolenic and undecylenic acids, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic acid is used.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkyl sulphates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of salts alkali metals, ammonium, amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.

In particular, it is preferred to use (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulphates, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium , amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. Better still, it is preferred to use (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulphates, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, aminoalcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.

Even more preferentially, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium cetearyl sulphate or their mixture will be used.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (A) comprises one or more anionic surfactants, preferably chosen from (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulphates, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.

The nonionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
- oxyalkylenated (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylphenols;
- C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;
- C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acid amides, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated;
- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;
- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated;
- esters of fatty acids and sucrose,
- (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkyl (poly)glucosides, (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkenyl (poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, esters of (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkyl (poly)glucosides,
- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not;
- ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates;
- N -alkyl(C ₈ -C ₃₀ )glucamine and N -acyl(C ₈ -C ₃₀ )-methylglucamine derivatives;
- amine oxides.

They are chosen, in particular, from alcohols, alpha-diols, (C ₁ -C ₂₀ )alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ acyl)- aminopropylmorpholine.

The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22 fatty acids, and of sorbitan can be chosen from:
Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids (preferably C12-C18) and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide can be chosen from esters C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, polyoxyethylene sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, such as:
polyoxyethylene (4 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (POLYSORBATE-21),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (POLYSORBATE-20),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate (POLYSORBATE-40),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan monostearate (POLYSORBATE-60),
polyoxyethylene (4 EO) sorbitan monostearate (POLYSORBATE-61),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan monooleate (POLYSORBATE-80),
polyoxyethylene (5 EO) sorbitan monooleate (POLYSORBATE-81),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan tristearate (POLYSORBATE-65),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan trioleate (POLYSORBATE-85).

The polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular mono, di, tri, tetra esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid (preferably C12-C18) and of sorbitan, having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, can be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, sorbitan, such as:
- the 20 EO polyoxyethylenated ester of sorbitan and cocoic acid (PEG-20 Sorbitan Cocoate)
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from to 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and of isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-5 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate such as the product marketed under the denomination Nikkol TI 10 V by the Nikkol company),
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and lauric acid (such as PEG-10 Sorbitan Laurate),
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from to 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and oleic acid with 10 oxyethylenated groups (such as PEG-6 Sorbitan Oleate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate),
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having 3 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and stea-ric acid (such as PEG-3 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-4 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-6 Sorbitan Stea-rate).

The nonionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 1 to 30 units of ethylene oxide, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or no and their mixtures.

Among the (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, it is preferred to use the (C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl)polyglycosides, preferably chosen from coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. .

Among the ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, those comprising 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 30 moles are preferred. of ethylene oxide. Mention may be made, for example, of steareth-2, steareth-20 and mixtures thereof.

Among the oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, use will preferably be made of oxyethylenated castor oil, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 80, more particularly from 10 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide, better still 20 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide. More preferably, hydrogenated oxyethylenated castor oil comprising 40 moles of ethylene oxide will be used.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (A) comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (alkyl C ₆ -C ₂₄ )polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may in particular be made, for example:

- those corresponding to the general formula (X) next :
(X)
in which the groups R₈to R₁₁, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R₈to R₁₁comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl groups, C alkoxy groups₁-VS₃₀, polyoxyalkylene (C₂-VS₆), C-alkylamide₁-VS₃₀, alkyl(C₁₂-VS₂₂)amidoalkyl(C₂-VS₆), alkyl(C₁₂-VS₂₂)acetate, and hydroxy-C₁-VS₃₀,X ^- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C₁-VS₄)sulfates, alkyl(C₁-VS₄)- or alkyl(C₁-VS₄)aryl sulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium , cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or marketed stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of formula ( XI ) below:
( XI )
in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides , phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates.
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts in particular of formula ( XII ) below:
( XII )
in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(C1-C4)sulfates, alkyl(C1-C4)- or alkyl(C1-C4)aryl- sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of formula ( XIII ) below:
( XIII )
wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the –C(O)R26 group, C1-C22 hydrocarbon R27 groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the –C(O)R28 group, C1-C6 hydrocarbon R29 groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; r1 and t1, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
The R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon R29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated. or unsaturated.
Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl (C1-C4) sulphate, alkyl (C1-C4)- or alkyl (C1-C4) aryl-sulphonate. It is however possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.
The anion X − is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulphate or ethyl sulphate.
The ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r , s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the –C(O)R26 group, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the –C(O)R28 group, the of hydrogen, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched , saturated or unsaturated.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
Mention may be made, for example, among the compounds of formula (XIII) of the salts, in particular the chloride or the methyl sulphate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, the latter may be the same or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or optionally oxyalkylenated alkyldiisopropanolamine on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of mono-, di- and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.
It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylammonium methosulfate , and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (B) comprises one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic, preferably non-silicone, surfactant(s) that can be used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylbetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )(?)alkylsulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines and (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl-amid(C ₆ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following structures (B1) and (B2), respectively:

R _a -C(O)-NH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ C(O)O ^- , M ⁺ , X ^- ( B1 )
Formula in which:
- R _a represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; And
- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M ⁺ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and
- X ^- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl-sulphonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate; or else M ⁺ and X ^- are absent;

R _a' -C(O)-NH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N(B)(B') ( B2 )
Formula in which:
- B represents the -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -OX'group;
- B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _z Y', with z=1 or 2;
- X' represents the group -CH ₂ -C(O)OH, -CH ₂ -C(O)OZ', -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -C(O)OH, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -C(O )OZ', or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ H or the group -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ -Z';
- Z′ represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- R _a' represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid
R _a' -C(O)OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, acid lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the disodium cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

It is also possible to use compounds of formula ( B′2 );
R _a'' -NH-CH(Y'')-(CH ₂ )nC(O)-NH-(CH ₂ )n'-N(R _d )(R _e ) ( B'2 )
Formula in which:
- Y'' represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ H or the group -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ - Z'';
- R _d and R _e , independently of one another, represent a C ₁ _C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
- Z'' represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- R _a'' represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid
R _a'' -C(O)OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil,
- n and n' , independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3 .

Among the compounds of formula ( B′2 ), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) amidoalkyl (C ₃ -C ₈ ) betaines such as as cocamidopropylbetaine, the compounds of structure (B1) or (B2) such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, the compounds of formula ( B'2 ) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide ).

More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, or mixtures thereof, better still disodium cocoamphodiacetate.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (A) comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, preferably chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines such as cocobetaine, (C ₈ -C 20 alkyl) ₂₀ ) amido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, compounds of structure (B1) or (B2) such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, compounds of formula ( B'2 ) such as the sodium salt diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide)

Preferably, the surfactant(s) present in composition (A) are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably from (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulphates, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, the ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) present in composition (B) are chosen from cationic surfactants, more particularly chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

When composition (A) comprises one or more surfactants, preferably, the total content of surfactant(s) in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight. weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

When composition (A) comprises one or more anionic surfactants, preferably, their total content preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 6% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

When composition (A) comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, preferably, their total content preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0, 1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 6% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

When composition (B) comprises one or more surfactants, preferably, the total content of surfactant(s) in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight. weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B) .

When composition (B) comprises one or more cationic surfactants, preferably, their total content preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 6% by weight, or even 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B) .

Sequestrants

Composition (A) useful according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.

Preferably, the composition (A) useful according to the invention comprises at least one sequestering agent.

The definition of a “sequestering agent” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated with a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a cycle including the metal ion).

A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron donor atoms which allow the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

In the context of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) can be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.

The salts include alkali metal, alkaline earth, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

Examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA ), and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS ), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine- N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in EP- A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A- 516.102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509.382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acids (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phophonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

Examples of chelating agents based on mono or polyphosphonic acid include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid ( E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP) , ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid)., and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.

By way of example of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid, the following compounds may be mentioned: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

According to one embodiment, the sequestering agent(s) useful according to the invention are phosphorus sequestering agents, that is to say sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

The phosphorus sequestering agent(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
- inorganic phosphorus derivatives preferably chosen from alkali or alkaline-earth metal phosphates and pyrophosphates, preferably alkali metals such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, preferably of alkali metals, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
- organic phosphorus derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and/or its alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) is (are) chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and/or at least one carbon atom.

The phosphorus sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also called tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

The phosphorus sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from etidronic acid (also called 1-hydroxyethane 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and/or its alkali or alkaline metal salts. -earth metals, preferably alkali metals such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

Thus, preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and/or its alkali metal salts, and a mixture of these compounds.

Particularly preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate and a mixture of these compounds.

According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.

Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts, are preferred.

When composition (A) comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

Non-ionic guar gum

Composition (A) useful according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic guar gum.

Preferably, the composition (A) useful according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic guar gum.

By nonionic guar gum is meant unmodified nonionic guar gums and modified nonionic guar gums.

Unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE, and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

The modified non-ionic guar gums are in particular modified with C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These hydroxyalkylated guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as for example propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The hydroxyalkylation rate, which corresponds to the number of molecules of alkylene oxide consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.

Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP 105 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.

Also suitable are non-ionic guar gums modified with hydroxyalkyl, more especially hydroxypropyl, groups modified with groups comprising at least one C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty chain. By way of example of such compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product ESAFLOR HM 22® (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18® (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205- 1® (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by RHONE POULENC.

When composition (A) comprises one or more nonionic guar gum(s), the total content of nonionic guar gum(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

Solvents

The composition (A) useful according to the invention can also comprise at least one organic solvent.

As an organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of alkanols, linear or branched, C ₂ to C ₄ , such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as alcohols or aromatic ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from polyols, more preferably, the organic solvent is glycerol.

The organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition, preferably, the composition (A) useful according to the invention is an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition, preferably, the composition (B) useful according to the invention is an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the water content ranges from 15 to 80% by weight, preferentially from 30 to 70% by weight, better still from 40 to 60% by weight.

Additives

The compositions (A) and (B) useful according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and/or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, direct dyes, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties inherently attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. .

The above additives may generally be present in an amount comprised for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.

According to one embodiment, the process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibers comprising:
a) a step of applying a composition (A) comprising:
- at least one fatty substance different from fatty acids, the total content of fatty substances different from fatty acids being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
- at least one oxidizing agent; And
b) a step of applying a composition (B) comprising at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition ( B) .

According to this embodiment, the process for dyeing keratin fibers comprises:
a) a step of applying a composition (A) comprising:
- at least one fatty substance different from fatty acids, the total content of fatty substances different from fatty acids being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) ,
- at least one alkaline agent,
- at least one oxidation dye,
- at least one oxidizing agent; And
b) a step of applying a composition (B) comprising at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition ( B) .

Process

Composition (A) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres. At the end of the treatment with composition (A) , the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally subjected to washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before application of composition (B) .

Composition (A) is usually left in place on the fibers for a period, in general, of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably of 5 minutes to 45 minutes, preferably of 10 to 40 minutes.

Composition (B) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. Preferably, composition (B) is applied to damp hair.

Composition (B) is applied, preferably a few minutes to a few hours after rinsing of composition (A) . Preferably, composition (B) is applied to damp hair immediately after rinsing out composition (A) .

At the end of the treatment with composition (B) , the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.

Composition (B) is usually left in place on the fibers for a period, in general, of 10 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably of 30 seconds to 5 minutes.

The temperature during the coloring and/or lightening process is conventionally between 20°C and 80°C, preferably between 20°C and 60°C.

In one embodiment of the invention, the process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibers comprises:
a) a step of applying a composition (A) comprising:
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
- at least one oxidizing agent; And
b) a step of applying a composition (B) comprising, among the oils, coconut oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight per relative to the total weight of composition (B) .

In another embodiment of the invention, the process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibers comprises:
a) a step of applying a composition (A) comprising:
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
- at least one oxidizing agent; And
b) a step of applying a composition (B) comprising coconut oil, the coconut oil content being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition ( B) .

In one embodiment of the invention, the process for dyeing keratin fibers comprises:
a) a step of applying a composition (A) comprising:
- at least one alkaline agent,
- at least one oxidation dye,
- at least one oxidizing agent; And
b) a step of applying a composition (B) comprising coconut oil, the coconut oil content being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition ( B) .

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibers comprises:
a) a step of applying a composition (A) comprising:
- at least one fatty substance different from fatty acids, the total content of fatty substances different from fatty acids being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
- at least one oxidizing agent; And
b) a step of applying a composition (B) comprising, among the oils, coconut oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight per relative to the total weight of composition (B) .

In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibers comprises:
a) a step of applying a composition (A) comprising:
- at least one fatty substance different from fatty acids, the total content of fatty substances different from fatty acids being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
- at least one oxidizing agent; And
b) a step of applying a composition (B) comprising coconut oil, the coconut oil content being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition ( B) .

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the process for dyeing keratin fibers comprises:
a) a step of applying a composition (A) comprising:
- at least one fatty substance different from fatty acids, the total content of fatty substances different from fatty acids being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- at least one alkaline agent,
- at least one oxidation dye,
- at least one oxidizing agent; And
b) a step of applying a composition (B) comprising coconut oil, the coconut oil content being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition ( B) .

Preferably, the composition (A) useful according to the invention results from the mixture at the time of use with a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

According to this embodiment, at the time of use, the composition (A) useful according to the invention is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions:
a composition (C) comprising:
- optionally at least one fatty substance different from fatty acids, the total content of fatty substances different from fatty acids being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
And
an oxidizing composition (D) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

According to this embodiment, the process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibers comprises:
i) a step of mixing a composition (C) comprising:
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
And
an oxidizing composition (D) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide;
a) a step of applying a composition (A) resulting from this mixing;
ii) a rinsing step or a rinsing step followed by a shampoo wash and a rinse;
b) a step of applying a composition (B) as described previously;
iii) a step of rinsing the composition (B) .

According to this embodiment, the process for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibers preferably comprises:
i) a step of mixing a composition (C) comprising:
- at least one fatty substance different from fatty acids, the total content of fatty substances different from fatty acids being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
And
an oxidizing composition (D) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide;
a) a step of applying a composition (A) resulting from this mixing;
ii) a rinsing step or a rinsing step followed by a shampoo wash and a rinse;
b) a step of applying a composition (B) as described previously;
iii) a step of rinsing the composition (B) .

Preferably, composition (C) comprises at least 25% by weight of fatty substances other than fatty acids, more preferentially, the total content of fatty substances different from fatty acids varies from 25 to 85% by weight, more preferentially from 35 to 80% by weight, better still from 40 to 70% by weight, even better still from 45 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

According to a preferred embodiment, at the time of use, the composition (A) useful according to the invention is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions:
a coloring composition (C) comprising:
- optionally at least one fatty substance different from fatty acids, the total content of fatty substances different from fatty acids being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- at least one alkaline agent and;
- at least one oxidation dye,
And
an oxidizing composition (D) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

According to one embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises a step of mixing composition (C) with an oxidizing composition (D) comprising at least one oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.

The oxidizing composition (D) is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.

It can also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when they are present, from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.

The oxidizing composition (D) also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.

In addition, the oxidizing composition (D) can comprise fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers.

Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when it is aqueous, is less than 7.

Preferably, the oxidizing composition (D) comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (D) .

Furthermore, the compositions (C) and (D) are preferably mixed before use, in a weight ratio (C)/(D) ranging from 0.2 to 10, better still from 0.5 to 2.

Preferably, there is an intermediate rinsing step for the keratin fibers between steps a) and b) of the process according to the invention.

set

Another object of the invention is a device with several compartments, preferably three compartments, for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising in a first compartment a composition comprising, at least one agent alkali and/or at least one oxidation coloration, in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and in a third compartment a composition comprising at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) ) being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the device for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair, with several compartments, comprises three compartments, comprising in a first compartment a composition comprising at least one fatty substance other than acids fatty substances, the total content of fatty substances other than fatty acids being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation coloration, in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and in a third compartment a composition comprising at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by appropriate means of application, which are identical or different, such as paintbrushes, brushes or sponges.

The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means making it possible to deliver the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being of a limiting nature.

Examples

In the examples which follow, all the quantities are indicated in mass percentage of active ingredient (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).

Example 1

Compositions

The compositions (B1) to (B4) were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% ai):

B1 (invention) B2 (invention) B3 (comparative) B4 (comparative) CETYL ESTERS 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.54 0.54 0.54 0.54 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 2.37 2.37 2.37 2.37 AMODIMETHICONE - - 0.70 - GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL - 0.70 - - COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL 0.70 - - - Preservatives, pH agents qs qs qs qs WATER Qs 100

At the time of use, a commercial C1 coloring composition (Olia shade 5.15) is mixed with 1 times its weight of commercial oxidizing composition.

Composition C1 comprises, in particular, monoethanolamine, at least 20% by weight of fatty substances different from fatty acids relative to the weight of composition C1 , oxidation dyes.

The oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide in a content of 6% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

The mixture is then applied to moderately sensitized locks of hair weighing 1 g and measuring 26 cm, at the rate of 10 g of mixture per g of hair.

After 30 min of laying on a plate thermostated at 27° C., the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and rinsed.

On damp hair, each of the compositions (B1) and (B2) according to the invention and (B3) and (B4) for comparison is applied, at the rate of 0.4 g of composition per g of hair.

After 5 minutes of exposure, the hair is rinsed and wrung out.

The surface condition of the hair thus treated is evaluated using a slip test on damp hair, according to the following protocol: the locks of hair are superimposed head to tail and kept in perfect contact. A device drives the central wick in a rectilinear movement. A dynamometer measures the force developed to perform this movement. The sliding force is all the lower as the hair has a smooth surface.

The maximum force values (N) recorded during the movement are presented in the table below:

Composition B1 (invention) B2 (invention) B3 B4 Max strength 0.53 0.58 0.60 0.64

Results

The maximum force values obtained with the method according to the invention are lower, therefore representative of a smoother surface of the hair, compared to the comparative methods.

The method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain hair having a smoother feel compared to a method which uses a composition (B) not comprising at least 0.3% by weight of vegetable oil.

Example 2

At the time of use, a commercial C1 coloring composition (Olia shade 5.15) is mixed with 1 times its weight of commercial oxidizing composition.

Composition C1 comprises, in particular, monoethanolamine, at least 20% by weight of fatty substances different from fatty acids relative to the weight of composition C1 , oxidation dyes.

The oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide in a content of 6% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

The mixture is applied to the entire head of 8 volunteers, at the rate of 30g of mixture per head.

After a 30-minute break at room temperature, the hair is rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and towel-dried.

Compositions B1 and B3 as described in Example 1 are then applied per ½ head, at the rate of 8 g of composition per ½ head.

After 1 minute of pause at room temperature, the hair is rinsed, then dried

The visual evaluation of the shine on the dried hair shows an improvement with the composition of the invention.

The shine is significantly better after treatment with composition B1 according to the invention comprising a vegetable oil compared with comparative composition B3 comprising a silicone.

Composition B1 (invention) B3 (comparative) Shine +++ +

Claims (18)

Process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibers comprising:
a) a step of applying a composition (A) comprising:
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
- at least one oxidizing agent; And
b) a step of applying a composition (B) comprising at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition ( B) . Dyeing and/or lightening process according to Claim 1, in which composition (A) comprises at least one oxidation dye and at least one alkaline agent. Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (A) comprises at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids. Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (A) comprises at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids chosen from liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, the hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of the triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, non-silicone waxes, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of plant origin or mixtures thereof, more preferably vaseline oil. Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims 3 and 4, in which composition (A) comprises at least 20% by weight of fatty substances other than fatty acids, more preferably the total content of fatty substances different from fatty acids ranges from 20 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 65% by weight, and better still from 30 to 60% by weight, even better from 30 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A) . Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the vegetable oil or oils present in composition (B) is (are) chosen from vegetable triglyceride oils, preferably chosen (s) from sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado, babassu, olive, coconut, brazil nut, marula, flax, coriander, rapeseed, borage, evening primrose, pomegranate, mango, palm, cottonseed, camellia, shea butter, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from coconut oil, soybean oil, more preferably coconut oil. Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (B) comprises at least one fatty substance different from fatty acids and different from vegetable oils, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty esters or their mixtures, more preferentially among fatty alcohols. Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (B) does not comprise any silicone fatty substance. Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of vegetable oils in composition (B) varies from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B) . Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkaline agents are chosen from alkanolamines, ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals and their mixtures, more preferentially among alkanolamines and ammonia, more preferably among alkalonamines, even better, monoethanolamine. Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oxidation dye or dyes are chosen from oxidation bases, preferably chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl ) alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from among and para-aminophenols and para-phenylenediamines, in particular para-toluenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl- para-phenylenediamine the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts; and their mixtures. Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oxidation dye or dyes are chosen from couplers, preferably chosen from 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4 -methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-(ß-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(ß-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(ß–hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, hydroxy-6-indole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, salts of corresponding addition, solvates, solvates of salts and mixtures thereof. Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oxidizing agent(s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, persulphates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates, advantageously, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (B) comprises one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from cationic surfactants, more particularly chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium salts , behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which there is an intermediate step of rinsing the keratin fibers between steps a) and b) . Dyeing and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (A) as defined in any one of the preceding claims is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions:
a composition (C) comprising:
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
And
an oxidizing composition (D) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide. Coloring and/or lightening process according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising:
i) a step of mixing a composition (C) comprising:
- at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
And
an oxidizing composition (D) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide;
a) a step of applying a composition (A) resulting from this mixing;
ii) a rinsing step or a rinsing step followed by a shampoo wash and a rinse;
b) a step of applying a composition (B) as defined above;
iii) a step of rinsing the composition (B) Device with several compartments, preferably three compartments, for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, comprising
- in a first compartment, a composition comprising at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidation dye,
- in a second compartment, an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and
- in a third compartment, a composition comprising at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.