FR3115688A1 - CURVING MASCARA AND METHOD OF USE - Google Patents

Abstract

CURLING MASCARA AND METHOD OF USE A method and mascara capable of providing semi-permanent curling to eyelashes are provided. The method involves applying a mascara substantially free of waxes and oxidants to an eyelash, such as a magnetic eyelash. The mascara contains more than 10% and less than 50% by weight of at least one ferromagnetic pigment, and between 9% and 18% dry matter content of a contractile polymer. After application, a magnet is temporarily held or moved over the eyelash in the direction of the curvature. Preferably, the curling is accomplished without the use of a brush or lash tool.

Description

CURVING MASCARA AND METHOD OF USE

The present invention relates to compositions and techniques for curling eyelashes, and more specifically to mascara compositions that create curl that can be further enhanced by the use of magnets.

CONTEXT

Mascaras are traditionally used to enhance the perceived aesthetics of a person's eyelashes. Such aesthetic qualities include the degree of curvature. Conventional mascaras use waxes, a surfactant and film formers to improve the curl of the eyelashes. However, such techniques are inherently limited by the chemicals available and the biological properties of a given person's eyelashes.

A technique to accentuate the curvature of the eyelashes, while avoiding some of the inherent biological or chemical limitations, is therefore desirable.

SHORT SUMMARY

A first aspect of the present disclosure relates to a technique making it possible to curve the eyelashes semi-permanently. The method involves the application (by means of an applicator, for example) of a mascara containing a ferromagnetic pigment and a contractile polymer to a natural or synthetic eyelash (for example, a magnetic eyelash). Mascara is typically applied to only one side of the eyelash, such as the underside of the eyelash (the side of the eyelash closest to the eye). Upon application, the contractile polymer will begin to contract, causing the lash to curl.

After application, a magnet can be temporarily held in place on the eyelash, or moved around the eyelash, in the direction the curvature is desired. The magnet attracts the ferromagnetic pigment, thus synergistically accentuating the bending efforts undertaken by the contractile polymer.

This process can be accomplished with or without the use of an eyelash tool or brush.

A second aspect of the present disclosure relates to mascara compositions for use on the eyelashes and accentuated by the use of a magnet. The mascara uses more than 10% and less than 40% by weight of at least one ferromagnetic pigment; and between 9% and 18% dry matter content of a contractile polymer. The mascara is substantially free of waxes and oxidants.

Optionally, the mascara contains between 15 and 35% by weight of at least one ferromagnetic pigment. Optionally, the at least one ferromagnetic pigment is uncoated.

Optionally, the mascara comprises between 40 and 85% by weight of the contractile polymer. Optionally, the contractile polymer has a glass transition temperature Tg ≥ 45˚C. Optionally, the mascara is substantially free of C1-C4 monoalcohol. Optionally, the mascara is substantially free of water.

In certain embodiments, the mascara also contains at least one non-ferromagnetic pigment and/or at least one film-forming polymer in addition to the contractile polymer.

In certain embodiments, the contractile polymer is a film-forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines and mixtures thereof, and optionally, the cyclic amide group and/or the cyclic amine group of the at least one film-forming polymer comprise one or more aromatic or aliphatic ring structures.

In certain embodiments, the contractile polymer is a copolymer comprising at least one pyrrolidone monomer. Optionally, less than 60% of the copolymer monomers are pyrrolidone monomers.

In some embodiments, the contractile polymer has at least some acrylate or acrylamide functionality.

There is an illustration of one embodiment of a system according to the present invention, comprising an eyelash, an eyelid and a magnet.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

As used herein, articles such as "a" and "an", when used in a claim, are understood to mean one or more elements of what is claimed or described.

As used herein, the phrase "about [a number]" is intended to include values rounded to the appropriate significant digit. Thus, "about 1" would be intended to include values between 0.5 and 1.5, while "about 1.0" would be intended to include values between 0.95 and 1.05.

As used herein, the term "at least one" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

As used herein, the expression "free [of an ingredient]" means that the identified ingredient is present only in an amount below its detection limit and, preferably, that the composition contains 0% the identified ingredient.

As used herein, the terms "include", "included" and "including" are intended to be non-limiting.

As used herein, the phrase "substantially free [of an ingredient]" means that the composition contains less than 1% of the identified ingredient.

Disclosed is a method of providing semi-permanent eyelash curling, which can best be understood by reference to the . In the disclosed system 100, an eyelash 110 is first provided. It can be a natural or synthetic eyelash, such as a magnetic eyelash. The eyelash 110 on the is a natural eyelash, and the eyelash 110 is shown as an extension of an eyelid 112.

A mascara is then applied to the eyelash 110. This can be done using an applicator (not shown) or any other suitable technique for introducing the mascara into the eyelash 110. The mascara is typically applied to only one side of the eyelash. eyelash, such as the underside of the eyelash (the side of the eyelash closest to the eye), although it can also be applied to other parts of the eyelash. With reference to the , the mascara is preferably applied to the surface of the eyelash 110 which faces away from the magnet 120. The application process typically involves curving the eyelash at least somewhat in the direction that the curvature is desired (eg example, bending the eyelash away from the eye).

The mascara includes a ferromagnetic pigment and a contractile polymer.

ferromagnetic pigment

The mascara can include one or more ferromagnetic pigments. As used herein, the term "ferromagnetic pigment" means a cosmetically acceptable material that exhibits ferromagnetic properties, including being attracted to a magnet. These materials include metals and metal oxides, such as iron oxide. A particularly suitable pigment is iron oxide black (CI 77499) which is a ferrous-ferric oxide. The pigment can be beaded. The pigment may or may not be coated, and is preferably uncoated. The pigment can be chemically or physically coupled to a carrier material (eg, polymer, silica, mica, etc.) to provide the desired aesthetic effect (such as a matte, pearl, satin or metallic effect ).

Ferromagnetic pigments make up at least 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, or 100% of all colorants in mascara.

In some embodiments, the ferromagnetic pigments are present in a total amount of >10 wt% and <50 wt% in the mascara. In some embodiments, the ferromagnetic pigments are present in a total amount of >10 wt% and <40 wt% in the mascara. In some embodiments, the ferromagnetic pigments are present in a total amount of >10%, ≥10%, ≥15%, ≥20%, and present in a total amount of ≤50%, ≤45%, ≤40, or ≤ 35 and or any combination thereof. For example, in one embodiment, the mascara comprises between 15 and 35% by weight of at least one ferromagnetic pigment.

Contractile polymer

The mascara can include one or more contractile polymers. A contractile polymer is a polymer that contracts and hardens when it dries. Some film-forming polymers are contractile polymers.

The glass transition temperature of the contractile polymer should be greater than or equal to 45˚C. In some embodiments, the Tg is ≥80˚C, ≥117˚C, ≥125˚C, and/or ≥200˚C. The Tg is preferably below 400˚C.

Since C1-C4 monoalcohols (such as ethanol) can interfere with the film formation process, the second composition should avoid the use of these C1-C4 monoalcohols, and ethanol in particular. The disclosed compositions are therefore preferably free, or substantially free, of C1-C4 monoalcohols. Other alcohols, such as glycols, are preferably only present at low levels (≤ 5% by weight relative to the contractile polymer).

Preferred copolymers which can function as contractile polymers do not contain a major portion of water-soluble monomers, and preferably less than 60% of the monomers are water-soluble. For copolymers that contain pyrrolidone monomer (such as N-vinylpyrrolidone), less than 60% of the monomers should be pyrrolidone monomer, and preferably less than about 50%.

Preferably, the contractile polymer contains at least some acrylate or acrylamide functionality. For example, copolymers that include methacrylamide, acrylate copolymer, styrene/acrylate copolymers, and polyacrylates such as polyacrylate-22.

The contractile polymer can be one or more film-forming polymers comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the at least one film-forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines and mixtures thereof is nonionic and water-soluble or water-dispersible. Without wishing to make a theory of it, it is believed that the presence of a sufficient quantity of the at least one film-forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group chosen from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines and their mixtures in the compositions of the present invention leads to a curling effect on the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes after application to the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes (and after the applied composition has dried).

According to preferred embodiments, the film-forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines and mixtures thereof has a weight average molecular weight in a range from about 10,000 daltons to about 1,000,000 daltons, preferably from about 20,000 daltons to about 800,000 daltons, preferably from about 50,000 daltons to about 600,000 daltons, and preferably from about 100,000 daltons to about 500,000 daltons, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 15,000 daltons to 900,000 daltons, 200,000 daltons to 400,000 daltons, 10,000 daltons to 150,000 daltons, etc.

Preferably, the cyclic amide group and/or the cyclic amine group of at least one film-forming polymer comprises one or more aromatic or aliphatic ring structures. Preferably the rings are 4 to 10 membered, preferably 5 to 8 membered, and preferably 5 to 6 membered in size, including all ranges and subranges in between.

Preferably, the cyclic amide group and/or the cyclic amine group of the at least one film-forming polymer are ethylenically unsaturated polymerizable monomers comprising a cyclic amine residue or a cyclic amide residue. Accordingly, the cyclic amide groups or monomers of the film-forming polymers useful in the present invention may comprise cyclic amide residues which are, or include, heterocyclic ring structures such as lactams and the like such as, for example, α -lactam, β-lactam, γ-lactam, δ-lactam and ε-lactam. Preferably, the cyclic amide is a pyrrolidone (a γ-lactam), a caprolactam or combinations thereof.

Preferred cyclic amine groups include various heterocyclic amines such as, for example, azoles, pyrroles, pyrrolidines, carbamates and the like. Preferably, the cyclic amine group is an imidazole.

Optionally, the contractile polymers can include other groups in addition to cyclic amide groups and/or cyclic amine groups.

If present, the additional group(s) are preferably acrylamide monomer(s), preferably having one or more -C3H5NO functional groups. Specific examples of these additional groups include, but are not limited to, (meth)acrylamides.

An example of a preferred contractile polymer is LUVISET® CLEAR AT3, a copolymer of N-vinyl pyrrolidone, methacrylamide and N-vinylimidazole commercially available from BASF of Ludwigshafen, Germany.

Preferably, the contractile polymer is present in an amount such that the mascara contains between 9 and 18% dry matter content of the contractile polymer. Preferably, the maximum dry matter content of the contractile polymer in the mascara is ≤ 18%, ≤ 17%, ≤ 16%, or ≤ 15%, and the minimum dry matter content of the contractile polymer is ≥ 9%, ≥ 10 %, or ≥ 11% or any combination thereof.

In certain embodiments, the ratio between the dry matter content of the contractile polymer and the amount of ferromagnetic pigment, in % by weight, present in the mascara is ≥ 0.18:1, ≥ 0.186:1, ≥ 0.2 :1, or ≥ 0.5:1 and is ≤ 1.8:1, ≤ 1.7:1, ≤ 1.67:1, or ≤ 1.5:1, or any combination thereof.

Other materials

Although the disclosed compositions are free, or substantially free, of waxes and oxidants, the mascara may include or consist of contractile polymers, ferromagnetic pigments and other components, including, for example, solvents, preservatives , additional film formers and/or colorants other than ferromagnetic pigments. In some embodiments, the mascara is free, or substantially free, of water.

Additional film former

Optionally, embodiments of the second composition may further comprise at least one additional film-forming polymer in addition to the contractile polymer. If present, the at least one additional film-forming polymer can be any film-forming polymer suitable for use in a composition for application to hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes.

For example, the at least one additional film-forming polymer may comprise at least one cyclic amide monomer (hereinafter "second cyclic amide monomer"). The fraction (eg, the fraction by weight) of the second cyclic amide monomer in the at least one additional film-forming polymer is at least 70%, preferably at least 75%, and preferably at least 80 %. Further, the second cyclic amide monomer is preferably selected from a vinyl pyrrolidone (a γ-lactam), a caprolactam and combinations thereof.

Suitable examples of additional film-forming polymer include, but are not limited to, pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers having at least 70% vinyl pyrrolidone monomer, such as LUVIKSOL 73E, LUVIKSOL 73W; polyvinylcaprolactam, such as LUVIKSOL Plus; and polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer such as PVP K-60 (or PLASDONE K-60), PVPK-90 (or PLASDONE K-90), or PVP K-120 (or PLASDONE K-120), each being commercially available from Ashland, Inc. of Kovington, KY.

Specific examples also include, but are not limited to, a silicone polymer such as, for example, a nonionic silicone copolymer such as a nonionic dimethicone copolymer. The silicone polymer or copolymer can be in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous dispersion medium. Non-limiting examples of nonionic silicone polymers include polymethylsiloxane resin, linear block copolymer and a mixture thereof. More specifically, non-limiting examples include a copolymer of dimethicone such as a copolymer of dimethylpolysiloxane and vinyl dimethylpolysiloxane (i.e. polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl copolymer) or a copolymer of dimethylpolysiloxane and a (meth)acrylate , wherein the dimethicone copolymer is optionally cross-linked and/or end-capped with functional groups. For example, polydimethylsiloxane and vinyl dimethylpolysiloxane can include dimethylpolysiloxane which is crosslinked with vinyl dimethylpolysiloxane and/or dimethylpolysiloxane which is end-capped with vinyl dimethylpolysiloxane. A preferred compound includes dimethylpolysiloxane crosslinked with vinyl dimethylpolysiloxane. An example of a particularly useful dimethicone copolymer is a divinyl-dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer available as DOWSIL HMW 2220 nonionic emulsion, available from Dow Corning of Midland, Michigan. It is a 60 percent active aqueous dispersion of divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer and includes C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ Pareth-3 and C ₁₂ -C 13 Pareth- ₂₃ .

Specific examples further include uncured acrylate and acrylic copolymers, urethane polymers, polyesters and combinations thereof. A non-limiting example of a suitable non-crosslinked supplemental film forming agent is sodium alginate, available as PROTANAL PH 6160 from FMC Health and Nutrition of Philadelphia, PA.

Preferably, if present, the additional film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 30% by weight, from preferably from about 1% to about 20% by weight, and preferably from about 2% to about 10% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges intermediaries. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain 2% or less by weight of the additional film forming agent, preferably 1% or less by weight, preferably 0.5% or less by weight, all weights being based on the composition weight.

Preferably, the contractile polymer constitutes at least 55% by weight of the total film-forming component of the mascara (i.e. the contractile polymer(s) + the additional film-forming polymer(s)) , at least 60% by weight, at least 75% by weight, at least 80% by weight and at least 90% by weight. In other words, the ratio between the contractile polymer(s) and the additional film-forming polymers should be ≥ 1.22 (55 contractile / 45 additional), ≥ 1.5:1 (60/40), ≥ 3:1 (75/25 ), ≥ 4:1 (80/20) and ≥ 9:1 (90/20).

Other colorants

Optionally, the disclosed compositions can include one or more other colorants.

The dyes are preferably chosen from pulverulent materials, fat-soluble dyes and water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one powdery dye. The pulverulent dyes can be chosen from pigments and nacres, and preferably from pigments.

Pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxide, as well as titanium or chromium oxide, violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that can be mentioned are carbon black, D&C type pigments and lakes based on cochineal carmine or barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.

The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Fat-soluble tints are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red17, D&C Green 6, β-Carotene, Soybean Oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto.

In some embodiments, the mascara includes at least one non-ferromagnetic pigment.

Referring again to the and to the process, once the mascara is applied, the contractile polymer will begin to contract, causing the eyelash to curl. As seen on the , the eyelash will begin to curve from its normal, uncurved position 110, to curve upwards to its final curved position 118, curving at a spreading angle 115 which can be observed and measured visually.

After application, a magnet 120 can be temporarily held in place on the eyelash, or moved around the eyelash 110, in the direction that curvature is desired, while the contractile polymer locks into place (or sets). The magnet attracts the ferromagnetic pigment, which synergistically accentuates the bending efforts undertaken by the contractile polymer. The magnet is preferably held at a distance 122 from the eyelash, sufficient for the magnetic field (not shown in the ) from the magnet 120 can interact with the ferromagnetic particles that have been applied to the eyelash. The effective distance will therefore be determined, in part, by the strength of the magnet used. Preferably, the minimum distance 122 from the magnet to the eyelash is >0 mm, ≥ about 2.5 mm, ≥ about 5 mm, ≥ about 7.5 mm, ≥ about 10 mm, ≥ about 12.5 mm, or ≥ about 15 mm, and preferably the minimum distance is ≤ about 50 mm, ≤ about 45 mm, ≤ about 40 mm, ≤ about 35 mm, ≤ about 30 mm, ≤ about 25 mm, ≤ about 20 mm, ≤ 15 mm , or ≤ about 12.5 mm, or any combination thereof.

In some embodiments, the eyelashes are exposed to the magnetic field from the magnet within 30 seconds, and preferably within 10 seconds, after the mascara has been applied to the eyelash. In some embodiments, the eyelashes are exposed to the magnetic field from the magnet for a total time of between 5 seconds and 1 minute. In preferred embodiments, the eyelash is exposed to the magnetic field for at least 5 seconds, at least 10 seconds, at least 15 seconds, at least 20 seconds, at least 25 seconds, or at least 30 seconds, and no more than 60 seconds, no more than 50 seconds, no more than 40 seconds, or no more than 30 seconds.

Although any magnet strength is contemplated, some embodiments use magnets with Gauss values between 100 and 20,000.

A base mascara composition was created, to which varying amounts of pigment and/or contractile polymer were added. See Table 1 below. Each mascara composition was tested using artificial lashes, held in place by thin flat tweezers. The mascaras were applied with an applicator, and some of these test lashes were then exposed to a magnetic field from a hand-held magnet that was moved over the lashes 20 times, for a total exposure time about 1 minute.

Material % w/w Contractile polymer (20% dry matter content) 34 to 85% ferromagnetic pigment 10 to 60% Conservative 0 to 1% Solvent q.s.

Ratings

After using the above method, eyelashes were assessed at their initial lift angle, then after being subjected to warm and humid conditions (60% RH, 32˚C), for 20 minutes and assessed again. Evaluations were made by holding each tweezer horizontally and measuring the angles formed by the eyelashes with a protractor. The viscosity of each composition with the pigment and the contractile polymer was also measured. The results are summarized in Table 2, where a dash indicates that the measurement was not performed.

% pigment % of dry matter Contractile polymer Curvature Viscosity (Pa s) No magnet With magnet 10% 0% 0 0 - 0% 16.7% - 0 to 20 - 10% 16.7% 30 to 50 10 to 50 3.96 20% 0% 0 0 - 0% 14.88% - 10 to 30 - 20% 14.88% 0 to 30 10 to 60 2.53 30 % 0% 0 0 - 0% 13.02% - 10 to 30 - 30 % 13.02% 0 to 20 20 to 50 2.74 40% 0% 0 0 - 0% 11.16% - 0 to 15 - 40% 11.16% 20 to 40 10 to 45 13.3 50% 0% 0 0 - 0% 9.3% - 0 to 15 - 50% 9.3% 0 to 10 10 to 30 10.7 60% 0% 0 to 10 0 to 10 - 0% 6.9% - 0 - 60% 6.9% 0 0 -

As can be seen, the use of ferromagnetic pigments without contractile polymer produced little or no curvature, even when a magnet was used. The use of a contractile polymer without ferromagnetic pigment allowed some curvature to be achieved for use levels above about 9% of dry matter content. The combined use of the contractile polymer and the ferromagnetic pigments, in the presence of the magnet, had a synergistic effect; for example, 30% ferromagnetic pigment (0 bend by themselves with a magnet) and about 13% dry matter content (10-30 degrees bend by themselves in the presence of a magnet) produced amazingly 20 to 50 degrees of bend when a magnet was used as the contractile polymers hardened. This synergistic enhancement also collapsed surprisingly when the dry matter content was below 9% and the ferromagnetic pigment concentration was above 50%.

One of skill in the art will recognize or be able to establish, using no more than simple routine experimentation, many equivalents to the specific embodiments of the invention described herein. Such equivalents are intended to be encompassed by the following claims.

Claims (10)

A method of providing semi-permanent curl to eyelashes, comprising:
providing a magnetic eyelash;
applying a mascara containing a ferromagnetic pigment and a contractile polymer to the magnetic eyelash; And
temporarily holding or moving a magnet over the magnetic eyelash in the direction of the curvature. A method according to claim 1, further comprising allowing the magnetic eyelash to bend without the use of an eyelash brush or tool. Mascara for use on eyelashes containing a magnet, the mascara comprising:
more than 10% and less than 50% by weight of at least one ferromagnetic pigment; And
between 9 and 18% dry matter content of a contractile polymer;
wherein the mascara is substantially free of waxes and oxidants. Mascara according to Claim 3, in which the mascara comprises between 15 and 35% by weight of at least one ferromagnetic pigment. Mascara according to claim 3, wherein at least one ferromagnetic pigment is uncoated. A mascara according to claim 3, wherein the contractile polymer has a glass transition temperature Tg ≥ 45˚C. A mascara according to claim 3, wherein the mascara is substantially free of C ₁ -C ₄ monoalcohol. A mascara according to claim 3, wherein the mascara is substantially water-free. Mascara according to claim 3, further comprising at least one non-ferromagnetic pigment. Mascara according to claim 3, wherein the contractile polymer is a film-forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines and mixtures thereof.