FR3115206A1 - COMPOSITION FOR MODIFYING THE COLOR OF KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition for modifying the color of keratin fibers Hair color bases, hair color compositions, and methods of modifying hair color are disclosed. Hair color bases include a buffer system including ammonium hydroxide, ammonium bicarbonate and, optionally, monoethanolamine (MEA). The hair color compositions include a hair color base comprising a buffer system including ammonium hydroxide, ammonium bicarbonate, and an oxidizing component. Figure for the abstract: NIL

Description

COMPOSITION FOR MODIFYING THE COLOR OF KERATIN FIBERS

The present disclosure relates to compositions for modifying hair color comprising a buffer system, a hair color base which comprises a buffer system, hair color compositions comprising a hair color base comprising a buffer system and an oxidant component, and processes for modifying the color of keratinous fibres.

Context

Changing or enhancing the appearance of keratinous fibers, such as hair, is very popular with consumers, including, for example, changing hair color and/or imparting various properties, for example, shine and conditioning to hair. Hair coloring typically involves bleaching, lightening and/or changing the color of the hair through oxidative tints, direct tints and/or pigments providing a different shade or color, and/or transferring the color of the hair.

Hair lightening, or hair color transfer, processes generally require the use of compositions that include at least one oxidizing agent to lighten dark hair color to lighter shades. When colorants or tint components such as oxidation tint precursors and/or direct tints are present in such compositions, such compositions may change or deposit color while lightening hair color at the same time . Conventional hair coloring products are permanent tint compositions comprising oxidation tint precursors, which are also known as intermediates or primary couplers. These oxidation tint precursors are colorless or faintly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing agents, give rise to colored complexes by a process of oxidative condensation.

A change in tone before and after application of a hair color modifying composition to hair is typically evaluated when lightening or transferring hair color. The degree of the level of lightening or transfer is determined by the variation. Tone refers to the "render" of a shade, including its degree of warm or cold and is based on the classification of natural shades, a tone separating each shade from the shade immediately following or preceding it. Pitch or tone levels typically range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit generally corresponding to one tone. Accordingly, the higher the tone number, the lighter the shade and therefore the greater the degree of transfer.

Hair lightening or color transfer compositions may require one or more alkalizing agents, such as ammonia, an ammonia-generating compound, an amine and/or an ammonium-based compound. The alkalizing agent causes the hair shaft to swell, thus allowing small molecules of oxidative tint to penetrate the superficial epidermis and cortex before the oxidative condensation process is complete. The resulting larger color complexes from the oxidative reaction are then trapped inside the hair fiber, permanently altering hair color. While such hair dye and/or color transfer compositions can effectively modify hair color, these compositions can damage hair fibers and/or irritate the scalp due to excessively high levels of alkalinity, which can be exacerbated by the processing time.

The use of new additional ingredients and innovative combinations of ingredients is continually being researched in an attempt to alleviate or avoid hair damage and/or scalp irritation, and also to improve the cosmetic performance of transfer compositions hair color and hair dye. While achieving desired safety and performance goals, however, the choice of ingredients or combinations of ingredients frequently poses challenges as they cannot adversely affect other cosmetic attributes. Ingredient combinations should be considered for attributes such as, ease and uniformity of application, rheology properties or viscosity, stability of compositions, and/or color deposition and target shade formation, while considering potential disadvantages such as than increased damage and/or poorer looking hair.

The risk of increased damage resulting from processing times is part of these challenges. Typical processing times can range from thirty (30) minutes, up to no less than forty-five (45) minutes. The longer the treatment time, the lighter the result on the hair and/or the more intense the color application if the hair needs to be tinted. However, as the treatment time increases, the damage to the hair and/or scalp typically increases. It is therefore desirable to provide the consumer with compositions and methods which can transfer color from hair and furthermore deposit color onto hair in an effective treatment time or in an improved manner, while preventing excessive damage to hair. hair and/or providing other cosmetic benefits such as shine, conditioning, and good appearance to the hair.

Thus, an object of the present disclosure is to provide novel compositions for modifying hair color by transferring or lightening hair color, and optionally depositing color, which require less processing time, thereby minimizing hair damage. hair and overall minimizing other adverse effects.

Summary

The subject disclosure relates to compositions and methods for modifying the color of keratin fibers using a buffer system for reduced treatment times. While typical processing times are about thirty minutes to forty-five minutes, processing times of the subject compositions and methods are significantly reduced, ranging from about five to twenty minutes. Accordingly, the subject compositions and methods avoid and/or mitigate hair and/or scalp damage during hair lightening while at the same time providing a much more efficient and rapid treatment time. In various embodiments, the disclosed compositions and methods achieve a desired level of tone color transfer in reduced processing times. In additional embodiments, the compositions and methods provide additional color deposit to hair in reduced processing times.

Advantageously, the subject compositions and methods may be employed in a plethora of hair modification compositions, including by way of non-limiting example, those with resorcinol, resorcinol derivatives, and resorcinol-free tinting compositions. Benefits of reduced processing time are provided in various embodiments of the subject compositions and methods with good deposition, transfer, performance, and minimal or no hair damage.

In order to achieve these and other benefits, the disclosure relates to a hair color base comprising a buffer system, wherein the buffer system comprises about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt% ammonium hydroxide; about 0.1% by weight to about 5% by weight ammonium bicarbonate; and optionally, about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt% monoethanolamine (MEA). The hair color base may optionally include at least one coloring component. In additional embodiments, the disclosure relates to a hair color composition comprising: a hair color base comprising a buffer system, an oxidant component, and optionally one or more coloring compounds.

In still further embodiments, the disclosure relates to methods of coloring, lightening, and/or toning hair using a hair color base comprising a buffer system according to the disclosure. For example, methods can include contacting hair with a hair color transfer composition for a time sufficient to achieve a desired level of hair color transfer, wherein the composition is formed from the mixture of a hair color base comprising a buffer system with an oxidizing component, wherein the buffer system comprises about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt% ammonium hydroxide; about 0.1% by weight to about 5% by weight ammonium bicarbonate; and optionally, about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt% monoethanolamine (MEA).

Another aspect of the invention provides a hair color composition comprising: a hair color base comprising a buffer system, wherein the buffer system comprises: about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt% hydroxide ammonium; about 0.1% by weight to about 5% by weight ammonium bicarbonate; and optionally, about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight monoethanolamine (MEA); wherein the % by weight of ammonium hydroxide is ≥ the % by weight of ammonium bicarbonate, based on the total weight of the buffer system; about 25% by weight to about 45% by weight of one or more surfactants; about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight of at least one fatty compound or an oil; and optionally at least one hair dye; wherein the wt% is based on the total weight of the hair color composition.

In still further embodiments, the disclosure relates to a multi-compartment kit for modifying hair color, comprising (a) a first compartment comprising a hair color base comprising a buffer system, wherein the buffer system comprises about 0, 1% by weight to about 10% by weight ammonium hydroxide; about 0.1% by weight to about 5% by weight ammonium bicarbonate; and optionally, about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight monoethanolamine (MEA), wherein the hair color base optionally comprises a coloring compound; and (b) a second compartment comprising an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

Implementations of the present technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the appended figures, in which:

[Fig 1] Figure 1 is a graph showing treatment times for hair treated with a composition according to the present disclosure and hair treated with a comparative composition (reference);

[Fig 2] Figure 2 is a graph showing variations in processing time as a function of the ratio and/or the % by weight of alkalizing agents of the composition and of the method (processing time = processing time; bicarbonate use level comparison = comparison of the level of use of bicarbonate);

[Fig 3] Figure 3 is a graph showing the effect of facultative MEA in the alkaline system (ammonium bicarbonate to ammonium hydroxide; processing time = processing time; effect of increased MEA on the bicarbonate system = effect of increasing MEA in the bicarbonate system).

detailed description

It has been surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the hair buffer system of the present disclosure significantly decreases treatment time for hair lightening and/or coloring treatments, thereby minimizing the length of time the hair is exposed to the treatment. lightening/coloring and minimizing hair damage. At the same time, the subject buffer system used with hair lightening/coloring treatments has been shown to improve hair color, taught lightening and/or transfer effects. For example, the composition provides good transfer uniformity along the fiber between the tip and the root of the hair (also referred to as highlighting selectivity), while a reduced treatment time reduces hair damage and/or to the scalp.

It has been surprisingly and unexpectedly found that the subject buffer system, compositions and methods demonstrate reduced processing time after about ten (10) to twenty (20) minutes. Specifically, a plateau effect of color change is found after about 10 minutes, demonstrating the end of treatment time providing a controlled hair color/lightening reaction. Based on information and belief, the combination of ammonium hydroxide and ammonium bicarbonate works in combination to buffer the reaction to reduce processing after about 10 to about 20 minutes. It has also been surprisingly and unexpectedly found that buffering capacity plateaus and does not increase with increasing ammonium bicarbonate, and/or operates within preferred ratio ranges of ammonium bicarbonate to ammonium hydroxide, and/or ammonium bicarbonate on ammonium hydroxide on optional MEA. It has also been found that optionally including a small amount of MEA can be used for neutralization of the alkaline system, but in small amounts compared to the alkaline system (ammonium bicarbonate + ammonium hydroxide) so that has an effect on oxidative hair color transfer or deposition. However, increasing amounts of MEA were found to decrease the buffering effect of ammonium bicarbonate on the system.

The subject compositions and methods provide for dyeing or color modification of hair in significantly reduced processing times, preferably ranging from five to twenty minutes. The subject base compositions and methods include a buffering system/agent comprising in combination, ammonium hydroxide, ammonium bicarbonate and optional MEA. The alkalizing system includes ammonium hydroxide, ammonium bicarbonate and ethanolamine for neutralization. Based on information and belief, ammonium hydroxide and ammonium bicarbonate synergistically create a buffer system that helps control the reaction to reduce the potential for over-processing. The new composition, when cured for five to twenty minutes, was found to have the same deposition, transfer, and performance as alkaline ammonium hydroxide and ethanolamine system references that typically cure at around thirty minutes. . In other aspects, the composition includes the base composition with the buffer system, and additionally at least one oxidizing agent and optionally a hair coloring agent and/or tints, such as oxidative tints, direct tints and/or pigments. In another aspect, the subject compositions and methods can be used in combination with resorcinol, resorcinol derivatives, and resorcinol-free tinting compositions.

Hair color modification or transfer can be accomplished with minimal hair damage using the reduced processing time compositions and methods of the present disclosure, and in particular, using a hair color base comprising a system buffer as described here. Additionally, it has been surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that by using the compositions of the present disclosure, it is possible to achieve an acceptable transfer of hair color which corresponds to an increase in tone height in an amount ranging from from 0.5 to 4, such as from about 1 to about 3, or from about 1.5 to about 2.5, in treatment times of from 5 to 20 minutes, while minimizing hair damage .

Additionally, when the hair color composition of the present disclosure additionally contains colorant/tint compounds, it has been surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the composition can also deposit color effectively and comparable to, if not better than , traditional permanent alkaline commercial hair tints, while maintaining a significantly lower processing time, and thus the compositions and processes of the present disclosure can provide improved color visibility and better color coverage, with less damage caused to hairs.

Hair color base compositions can be mixed with an oxidizing agent or a composition containing at least one oxidizing agent. The resulting composition comprising the hair color base and the oxidant composition is used to transfer or lighten the hair composition as described herein. When the hair color composition or hair color base additionally contains a coloring compound, the resulting composition is also used to deposit color on the hair.

The hair color base and/or hair color modifying compositions can be used to transfer or lighten hair color. According to various embodiments, a process for transferring or modifying the color of keratin fibers, such as hair, is provided, comprising applying to the hair a hair color base composition, an oxidant component, and optionally at least one colorant.

In order to improve the performance of such hair coloring compositions, the use of new additional ingredients and innovative combinations of ingredients is continually sought; however, the choice of ingredients could pose challenges as they must improve the dyeing/transferring ability of the composition without adversely affecting other properties of the composition such as its application, rheology properties or viscosity, stability and/or resulting in more disadvantages such as increased damage or poorer hair appearance.

It is also important to provide hair coloring compositions with various types of consistency, such that the compositions can be provided as a liquid emulsion, liquid lotion, liquid-gel, liquid cream, or a cream emulsion, such as heavy cream or gel cream, or a mousse, the liquid emulsion form having a thinner consistency than the cream emulsion form and is typically packaged in a bottle. The liquid emulsion form is generally employed when all of the hair needs to be colored or when a single color is desired so that the tinting composition spreads easily, allowing for greater coverage whereas the of cream emulsion can be used to dye all of the hair and to highlight or lighten only certain sections of the hair.

Thus, the objective of the present invention is to obtain novel compositions for oxidatively dyeing the hair with faster treatment time and reaction control. Another object of the invention is to obtain hair coloring compositions which have a unique consistency or rheology, without dripping and nevertheless spread easily on the hair while imparting other benefits to the hair such as conditioning, good appearance, reduced processing time, shine and less hair damage.

B hair color base

The hair color base compositions according to the disclosure comprise a buffer system. The components of the hair color base buffer system can be chosen to maintain an alkaline pH of the compositions, before and/or after the hair color base is (is) mixed with an oxidant component and/or compound(s). (s) dye(s). Thus, according to one embodiment, the pH of the hair color base ranges from about 8.5 to about 10.

The buffer system includes ammonium hydroxide, ammonium bicarbonate, and optional monoethanolamine (“MEA”). Ammonium hydroxide, ammonium bicarbonate, and optional MEA may work to maintain alkaline pH, may impart transfer to hair, and may facilitate incorporation of coloring compounds into hair. Unexpectedly, the combination was determined to decrease processing time with maintained and/or increased transfer.

It is understood that the hair color base and/or buffer system may include additional components, but such components should be selected with care to maintain a pH of the hair color base and/or the degree of transfer imparted into the limits of acceptable variation.

The following weight percentages are based on the total weight of the hair color base. The buffer system can include from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt% ammonium hydroxide, from about 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt% ammonium bicarbonate, and optionally , from about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight MEA. Alternatively, the buffer system comprises, based on the total weight of the hair color base, from about 1.2% by weight to about 5% by weight ammonium hydroxide, from about 0.5% by weight to about 3.5 wt% ammonium bicarbonate, and optionally from about 0.1 wt% to about 1 wt% MEA.

For example, according to one non-limiting exemplary embodiment, the buffer system can include about 2.3 wt% ammonium hydroxide, about 1.5 wt% ammonium bicarbonate, and optionally, about 0 66% by weight of MEA, based on the total weight of the hair color base.

Preferably, the amount or % by weight of ammonium hydroxide is greater than the % by weight of the ammonium bicarbonate. More preferably, the wt% of ammonium hydroxide is greater than the wt% of sodium bicarbonate, which itself has a wt% greater than the wt% of MEA.

The ratio of ammonium bicarbonate to ammonium hydroxide is preferably from about 1:>1 to about 1:5. Alternatively, the ratio of ammonium bicarbonate to ammonium hydroxide ranges from about 1:1.1 to about 1:3. The ratio of optional MEA to ammonium bicarbonate and ammonium hydroxide is preferably about 1:>1 to 1:20. More preferably, the ratio of MEA to ammonium bicarbonate and ammonium hydroxide ranges from about 1:2 to 1:5.

Hair color compositions

The hair color compositions according to the disclosure preferably comprise the hair color base comprising up to about 10% by weight of the buffer system comprising ammonium hydroxide, ammonium bicarbonate and optional MEA, at least an oxidizing component, optionally at least one coloring compound, and optionally at least one other component suitable for use in cosmetic compositions, and in particular in hair coloring or lightening compositions.

It is understood that the oxidant component, the coloring component, and any optional components may be present in the hair color base composition itself, or may be present in a separate composition which is mixed with the hair color base before application. to the hair, and that any reference to a component which is present in the hair color base is also intended to include a disclosure of the component in a separate composition which is mixed with the hair color base before application to the hair, and any reference to a component present in the hair color composition includes a disclosure of the component in the base hair color composition.

Oxidant component

The hair color composition according to the disclosure comprises at least one oxidant component. The oxidant component can be an oxidizing agent, or can be a composition comprising an oxidizing agent ("oxidizing composition"), which terms are used interchangeably herein without being intended to be limiting. In various embodiments, the oxidant component may be provided as a separate component from the hair color base, and mixed with the hair color base, for example, at a time just before use, such as about 1 to about 20 minutes before application to hair.

The oxidizing agent can be, for example, chosen from peroxides, persulphates, perborates, percarbonates, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, or one of their mixtures. The oxidizing agents that can also be used include at least one redox enzyme such as laccases, peroxidases, and 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricase, where appropriate in the presence of their respective donor or co-factor. Oxygen in the air can also be an oxidizing component.

In one embodiment, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide present in an aqueous solution whose title can range from 1 to 40 volumes, such as from 5 to 40 volumes or from 5 to 20 volumes.

In another embodiment, the oxidizing agent is a persulfate and/or a monopersulfate such as, for example, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, as well as mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the oxidizing agents in this disclosure are selected from hydrogen peroxide, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

Generally, the oxidizing agent will be present in an amount of about 0.05 to about 50% by weight, such as about 0.1% to about 30% by weight, or such as about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, or such that from about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

In one embodiment, the oxidant composition is aqueous or liquid is in the form of a cream or an emulsion. In another embodiment, the oxidant composition is substantially anhydrous.

The term "substantially anhydrous" means that the oxidant composition is either completely free of water or contains a negligible amount of water, for example, not more than 5% by weight, or not more than 2% by weight, or not more than 1% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing composition. It should be noted that this refers for example to bound water, such as water of crystallization of salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the preparation of the compositions according to the disclosure.

The oxidizing composition may contain at least one solvent, for example water, organic solvents, or mixtures thereof.

When the oxidizing composition is substantially anhydrous, the oxidizing composition may comprise at least one solvent chosen from organic solvents. Organic solvents suitable for use in the oxidizing composition include ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, propanol, benzyl alcohol, phenyl ethyl alcohol, glycols and glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, monomethyl ethylene glycol, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol and its ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, glycerine, hydrocarbons such as straight chain hydrocarbon, mineral oil, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polydecene, squalane, petrolatum, isoparaffins, and mixtures thereof.

Organic solvents for use according to this disclosure can be volatile or non-volatile compounds. The organic solvent may, for example, be present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 70% by weight, such as about 2% to about 60% by weight, such as from about 5 to about 50 % by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

The oxidant composition can be in the form of a powder, gel, liquid, foam, lotion, cream, and emulsion.

Dye

The hair color base and/or hair color composition according to the disclosure may optionally comprise at least one coloring compound. In various embodiments one or more colorants may be present in the hair color base composition, in a further embodiment one or more colorants may be present in a separate composition which is mixed with the hair color base prior to use , and in a still further embodiment, one or more colorants may be present in the hair color base and one or more colorants may be present in a separate composition which is mixed with the hair color base before use.

In various embodiments, the at least one colorant is selected from oxidative tint precursors, direct tints, pigments, and mixtures thereof.

The oxidation tints are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers. By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, meta-aminophenols, and heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts.

Among the para-phenylenediamines which may be mentioned, for example, are para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine (toluene-2,5-diamine), 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β -hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N–bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para -phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N -(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-p ara-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2- thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, hydroxypropyl bis(n-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine), and their addition salts with an acid .

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2 ,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts with an acid, can be chosen.

Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned, for example, there are N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl) -N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3 '-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts.

Among the para-aminophenols which may be mentioned, for example, are para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3 -hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4- amino-2-fluorophenol, and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned, for example, are 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their salts. addition. Among the meta-aminophenols, mention may be made of 3-aminophenol and its salts.

Among the heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned, for example, are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino -3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and their addition salts.

Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present disclosure are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a] pyridine oxidation bases or their addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801,308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid- 7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a ]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3 ,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl) amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1, 5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol , 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-α-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a ]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; hydroxyethoxy aminopryazolopyridine, and their addition salts.

More particularly, oxidation bases which are useful in the present disclosure are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and optionally substituted on carbon atom 2 by:

(a) a (di) (alkyl) (C ₁ to C ₆ ) amino group in which said alkyl group may be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group;

(b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing a chain of 5 to 7 members, and of 1 to 3 heteroatoms, potentially cationic, potentially substituted by one or more alkyl (in C ₁ to C ₆ ), such as dialkyl (in C ₁ to C ₄ ) piperazinium; Or

(c) an alkoxy (C ₁ to C ₆ ) potentially substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as α-hydroxyalkoxy, and their addition salts.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4 -dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43,988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-pyrazole, 3,4-diamino-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-( 4'-chlorobenzyl)-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3- phenyl-pyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino-pyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3- tert -butyl-1- methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- tert -butyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ethyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino -3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl )amin o-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4- (β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and their addition salts. 4,5-diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole can also be used. According to certain embodiments, 2,3-diaminodihydropyrazolo pyrazolone dimethosulfonate can also be used. Optionally, a 4,5-diaminopyrazole, for example 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a salt thereof can be used.

The pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2 ,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-( pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6, 7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidi n-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2- a]pyrazol-1-one. For example, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a salt thereof can be used.

According to certain embodiments, 2,3-diaminodihydropyrazolo pyrazolone dimethosulfonate can be used. 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1 can be used -one and/or a salt thereof as heterocyclic bases.

The compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those conventionally used in the dyeing or coloring of keratin fibers. Among these couplers, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, couplers based on naphthalene and heterocyclic couplers, and also their addition salts.

Mention may be made, for example, of 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(ßβ–hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol (3- amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol), 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy) benzene (2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCl), 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene (2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol), 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4 -diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole , 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1 ,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, and 6-methylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]benzimidazole, their acid addition salts, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the addition salts of oxidation bases and couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

The oxidation base(s) may, for example, represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight compositions of the present disclosure.

The coupler(s), if present, each advantageously represents from 0.001% to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, such as 0.005 % to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure.

The compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise b) one or more synthetic or natural direct tints, chosen from anionic and nonionic species, for example cationic or nonionic species, either in the form of tints alone or in addition to the ( oxidation color(s).

Examples of suitable spot tints which may be mentioned include azo spot tints; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl tints; azine tints; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin tints; phthalocyanine tints, and natural direct tints, alone or in mixtures.

In various embodiments, the spot dyes are cationic spot dyes. Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic tints of the formulas (Va) and (V’a), azo cationic tints (VIa) and (VI’a) and diazo cationic tints (VIIa) below:

het ⁺ -C(R ^To )=N-N(R ^b )-Ar, An ^- (Goes) Het ⁺ -N(R ^a )-N=C(R ^b )-Ar, An ^- ( V'a) het ⁺ -N=N-Ar, An ^- (Via) Ar ⁺ -N=N-Ar’’, An ^{- (} VI’a) and het ⁺ -N=N-Ar'-N=N-Ar, An ^{- (} VIIa)

formulas (Va), (V'a), (VIa), (VI'a) and (VIIa) in which:

• Het ⁺ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, optionally carrying an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, optionally preferentially substituted by one or more alkyl groups (C ₁ to C ₈ ) such as methyl;
• Ar ⁺ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, in particular trialkyl (C ₁ to C ₈ ) ammonium such as trimethylammonium;
• Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferably with one or more electron-donating groups such as i) optionally substituted (C ₁ to C ₈ ) alkyl, ii) optionally substituted (C ₁ to C ₈ ) alkoxy , iii) (di)(alkyl) (C ₁ -C ₈ )amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) arylalkyl (C ₁ -C ₈ )amino, v) N -(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl- N -aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylamino optionally or alternatively substituted Ar is julolidine;
• Ar' is an optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene group such as phenylene, in particular para-phenylene, or naphthalene, which are optionally substituted, preferably with one or more (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl, hydroxyl or alkoxy ( C ₁ to C ₈ );
• Ar'' is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferably with one or more (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(alkyl) (C ₁ to C ₈ )amino, alkoxy (C ₁ to C ₈ ) or phenyl;
• R ^a and R ^b , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C ₁ to C ₈ ), which is optionally substituted, preferably with a hydroxyl group;

or as a variant the substituent R ^a with a substituent from Het ⁺ and/or R ^b with a substituent from Ar and/or R ^a with R ^b form, together with the atoms which bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl;

in particular, R^Toand R^brepresent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C₁ to C₄), which is optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;

• An ^- represents an anionic counterion such as mesylate or halide.

In particular, mention may be made of the azo and hydrazono cationic tints bearing an endocyclic cationic charge of the formulas (Va), (V'a) and (VIa) as defined previously. More particularly, those of formulas (Va), (V'a) and (VIa) derived from the colors described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954.

In various embodiments, the cationic moiety is derived from the following derivatives:

, ^Year- (Go-1) , ^Year- (VIa-1)

formulas (V-1) and (VI-1) with:

- R ¹ representing an alkyl group (C ₁ to C ₄ ) such as methyl;

- R ² and R ³ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C ₁ to C ₄ ), such as methyl; And

- R ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as optionally substituted (C ₁ to C ₈ ) alkyl, optionally substituted (C ₁ to C ₈ ) alkoxy, or (di) (alkyl) (C ₁ at C ₈ )amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; in particular, R ⁴ is a hydrogen atom,

- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH;

- An ^- represents an anionic counterion such as mesylate or halide.

In various embodiments, the shade of formulas (Va-1) and (VIa-1) is chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives:

Year ^- Basic Red 51 Year ^- Basic Orange 31 Year ^- Basic Yellow 87

Among the direct natural dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention can be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins . Extracts or decoctions containing these natural tints and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts can also be used.

When present, the direct tint(s) may, for example, be present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, such as from 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the hair color base or hair color composition in which they are present.

Optional components

The hair color base and/or hair color composition according to the disclosure may comprise any auxiliary or additional component suitable for use in cosmetic compositions, and in particular suitable for hair coloring or lightening compositions. Such components may include, but are not limited to, solvents, silicone compounds, thickening agents, cosmetically acceptable rheology modifiers such as acrylic polymers, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, polymers or anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic mixtures, film-forming agents or polymers, humectants and moisturizing agents, fatty substances, emulsifying agents other than fatty substances, fillers, structuring agents, propellants, gloss-giving agents, conditioning agents, antioxidants or reducing agents, penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, buffers, dispersants, conditioning agents, for example volatile or non-volatile, modified or unmodified silicones, ceramides, preservatives, opacifiers, sunscreen agents, and antistatic agents. Acids, eg citric acid, can affect the pH of the system resulting in loss of transfer. As such, optional ancillary or additional components will be chosen so as to minimize any detracting effect from the benefits of the hair color bases and compositions described herein.

According to some embodiments, the antistatic agent can include a polymer of hexadimethrin chloride. In various embodiments, sequestering agents can include ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or its conjugate base. The hair color base and oxidant compositions of the present disclosure according to the disclosure can be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gel-liquids, liquid creams, gels, lotions or pastes.

Typically, the foregoing optional components may be present in amounts up to about 25%, such as about 1% to about 20%, or about 2% to about 10%, by weight of the composition, when present, although different amounts are also contemplated.

The hair color base and/or hair color composition according to the disclosure may comprise a cosmetically acceptable solvent, for example as a tint carrier when a hair tint composition is contemplated. The cosmetically acceptable solvent can comprise water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent.

As examples of organic solvents, mention may be made, without limitation, of monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.

Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerine. Organic solvents for use according to the present disclosure can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

When present, the organic solvent may be employed according to the present disclosure in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 25% by weight, such as from about 1% to about 15% by weight, or as than from about 2% to about 8% by weight, or such as from about 3% to about 7% by weight, or such as from about 4% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the base of hair color and/or the hair color composition in which it is present. For example, the hair color base may include 0.6% by weight of a carbomer (4% solution).

In various exemplary embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable solvent may be employed according to the present disclosure in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 60% by weight, or such as from about 5% to about 30% by weight, such as from about 5% to about 25% by weight, or such as from about 5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair color base.

The hair color base and/or the hair color composition according to the disclosure may also further comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. In general, nonionic surfactants having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of 8 to 20 can be used in the present disclosure. The inclusion of at least one nonionic surfactant can help stabilize the hair color base and/or hair color composition when oxidative tint precursors are present in the composition. Thus, in certain embodiments, when coloring compounds such as oxidative dye precursors are present, at least one nonionic surfactant may also be present.

By way of example only, nonionic surfactants useful in the compositions of the present disclosure may be selected from those disclosed in McCutcheon's "Detergents and Emulsifiers", North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; and McCutcheon's "Functional Materials", North American Edition (1992).

Examples of nonionic surfactants useful herein include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated derivatives of the following: fatty alcohols, alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, and fatty acid amides, wherein the alkyl chain is in the range of C ₁₂ to C ₅₀ , for example in the range of C ₁₆ to C ₄₀ , or in the range of C ₂₄ to C ₄₀ , and having from about 1 to about 110 alkoxy groups. Alkoxy groups are selected from the group consisting of C ₂ -C ₆ oxides and mixtures thereof, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and mixtures thereof being useful examples. The alkyl chain can be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated. Among these alkoxylated nonionic surfactants, alkoxylated alcohols can be chosen, such as ethoxylated alcohols and propoxylated alcohols. The alkoxylated alcohols can be used alone or in mixtures. Alkoxylated alcohols can also be used in mixtures with these alkoxylated materials disclosed above.

Other representative examples of such ethoxylated fatty alcohols include laureth-3 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 3), laureth-23 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 23), ceteth -10 (a cetyl alcohol ethoxylate with an average degree of ethoxylation of 10) steareth-10 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate with an average degree of ethoxylation of 10), and steareth-2 (a stearyl alcohol having an average degree of ethoxylation of 2), steareth-20 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 20), steareth-100 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 100), beheneth-5 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 5), beheneth-10 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10), and others derivatives and mixtures of the previous elements.

Also commercially available are Brij ^® nonionic surfactants from Croda, Inc., Edison, NJ Typically, Brij ^® is the condensation products of aliphatic alcohols with from about 1 to about 54 moles of ethylene oxide , the alkyl chain of the alcohol typically being a straight chain and having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, for example, Brij ^® 72 (i.e., Steareth-2) and Brij ® 76 (i.e., Steareth-2) and Brij ^® 76 (c- i.e., Steareth-10).

Also useful as nonionic surfactants are alkyl glycosides, which are the condensation products of long chain alcohols, e.g.₈to C₃₀, with sugar or starch polymers. These compounds can be represented by the formula (S)n --O--R wherein S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integer from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C-alkyl group₈ To VS₃₀. Examples of long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like. Examples of such surfactants are alkyl polyglucosides in which S is a glucose moiety, R is a C₈to C₂₀, and n is an integer from about 1 to about 9. Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl polyglucoside (available as APG^®325 CS) and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG^®600 CS and 625 CS), all APG polyglycosides^®identified above are available from BASF Corp. Also useful are sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate.

Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use according to the present disclosure are glyceryl esters and glyceryl polyesters, including, but not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, such as glyceryl monoesters of saturated, unsaturated chain fatty acids. and branched C ₁₆ to C ₂₂ such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, and polyglyceryl esters of saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids C ₁₆ to C ₂₂ , such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof.

Also useful as nonionic surfactants are sorbitan esters, for example sorbitan esters of C ₁₆ to C ₂₂ saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids. Due to the way they are typically made, these sorbitan esters usually include mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-esters, etc. Representative examples of suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (eg, ^SPAN® 80), sorbitan sesquioleate (eg, ^Arlacel® 83 from Croda, Inc., Edison, NJ), sorbitan monoisostearate (eg, , CRILL ^® 6 from Croda, Inc., Edison, NJ), sorbitan stearates (eg, SPAN ^® 60), sorbitan trioleate (eg, SPAN ^® 85), sorbitan tristearate (eg, SPAN ^® 65 ), sorbitan dipalmitates (eg, SPAN ^® 40), and sorbitan isostearate. Sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate can be used as emulsifiers.

Also suitable for use herein are alkoxylated derivatives of glyceryl esters, sorbitan esters, and alkyl polyglycosides, wherein the alkoxy groups are selected from the group consisting of C ₂ -C ₆ oxides and mixtures thereof, such as ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of these materials. Non-limiting examples of commercially available ethoxylated materials include TWEEN ^® (ethoxylated sorbitan mono-, di- and/or tri-esters of C ₁₂ to C ₁₈ fatty acids with an average degree of ethoxylation of about 2 to about 20). According to certain embodiments, TWEEN ^® -21 (polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate) can be used.

The nonionic surfactants can be those formed from a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, or a glyceride with a C ₄ to C ₃₆ carbon chain, such as a C ₁₂ to C _{18 carbon chain, or a C 4 to C 18} carbon chain. C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ , derivatized to produce an HLB of at least 8. The HLB is intended to refer to the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. Such derivatives can be polymers such as ethoxylates, propoxylates, polyglucosides, polyglycerines, polylactates, polyglycolates, polysorbates, and others which would appear to those skilled in the art. Such derivatives may also be mixed polymers of the above elements, such as ethoxylated/propoxylated species, where the total HLB is optionally greater than or equal to 8. In various embodiments, the nonionic surfactants contain ethoxylate in a molar content of 10 to 25, such as 10 to 20 moles.

When present, the surfactant will typically be present in the hair color composition in an amount from about 0.1% to about 45% by weight, such as from about 0.5% to 25% by weight, d from about 1% to about 12% by weight, or from about 5% to about 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair color base and/or hair color composition in which it is present.

The hair color base and/or hair color composition according to the disclosure may comprise at least one fatty substance. "Fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at normal temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (750 mmHg) (solubility below 5% and such that below 1% and above such that below 0.1%). Fatty substances have in their structure a chain of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. Moreover, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example in chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substances are, for example, chosen from alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes and silicone .

When present, the fatty compounds and/or oils will typically be present in the hair color composition in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 30% by weight, such as from about 0.1% to 20 % by weight, from about 1% to about 12% by weight, or from about 5% to about 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair color base and/or hair color composition in which they are present.

In certain embodiments, the alcohols and esters comprise at least one linear or branched hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, for example, by at least one hydroxyl group (for example 1 to 4 ). If unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Regarding alkanes, in certain embodiments, they can contain from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. As examples, the alkanes can be selected from hexane and dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane.

Non-limiting examples of non-silicone oils according to the disclosure include: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as oleic acid, triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybeans, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names ^MIGLYOL® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as fluorinated oils, partially hydrocarbon ^Parleam® ; in the form of fluorinated oils, non-limiting examples include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “ ^FLUTEC® PC1” and “ ^FLUTEC® PC3” by the company F2 Chemicals Ltd. ; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF ^5050® ” and “PF ^5060® ” by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyle sold under the name “ ^FORALKYL® ” by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF ^5052® ” by the company 3M.

The fatty alcohols which can be used as fatty substances according to the disclosure include, without being limited thereto, the non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched elements, and comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. . For example, one can choose cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol.

Exemplary non-silicone wax or waxes which can be used in the composition of the disclosure are selected from paraffin wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and alfalfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as the essential blackcurrant flower wax sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the disclosure are, for example, marine waxes such as those sold by the company SOPHIM under the reference M82, polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

Examples of fatty acid esters are esters of mono- or poly-aliphatic C ₁ to C ₂₆ saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acids and of mono- or poly-aliphatic C ₁ to C ₂₆ saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbons of the esters being, for example, greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, non-limiting mentions may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, mirystyle, stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Additional non-limiting mentions may be made of esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ di- or tri-carboxylic acids and of C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols and of esters of mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and di -, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy C ₂ to C ₂₆ alcohols.

Still additional non-limiting examples of esters include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, examples of esters include ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as myristate isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and di-esters of sugars of C ₆ to C ₃₀ fatty acids, such as C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ . "Sugar" as used herein in the disclosure means oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds which have multiple alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and having at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

As suitable sugars, non-limiting examples include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids can, for example, be chosen from the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C ₆ to C ₃₀ fatty acids, such as C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to at least one embodiment can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters can for example be oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate or palmito-stearate esters.

For example, mono- and di-esters can be used, such as mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. Non-limiting mention may be made of the product sold under the name ^GLUCATE® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of fatty acid sugar esters or mixtures of esters include: products sold under the names Crodesta ^{T M} F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Croda, Inc., Edison, NJ , designating respectively sucrose palmito-stearates formed of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri- , and tetra-ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example with the reference B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by the company Evonik under the name ^TEGOSOFT® PSE.

The silicones usable in the composition of the present disclosure include, without limitation, volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, modified or not with organic groups.

The silicones that can be used according to the disclosure can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. In some embodiments, a mixture of C ₃₀ to C ₄₅ alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane, available as SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax available from DOW CORNING ^® , and paraffin may be included in the hair color base. .

In certain embodiments, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(alkoxylated) groups, amine groups and alkoxy groups. .

The organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of Walter NOLL “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are, for example, chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and for additional examples, chosen from: cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, such as only 4 to 5 silicon atoms. They may be, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE ^® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE ^® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE ^® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ^® 70045 V5 by RHODIA , and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting mentions can also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE ^VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, of formula I:

Non-limiting mentions can also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane.

Other suitable volatile silicones include linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed under the name “Toray SH 200 Fluid” by the company DOW ^CORNING® . Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32--TODD BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.

Still further non-limiting mentions may be made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the aforementioned organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.

These silicones are, for example, chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to the ASTM 445 Annex C standard.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-exhaustive manner, of the following commercial products: ^SILBIONE® oils of range 47 and 70 047 or ^MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the MIRASIL ^® range marketed by the company RHODIA; the oils of the 200 range from the company DOW CORNING such as DC200; VISCASIL ^® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Non-limiting mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, non-limiting mentions can be made of the products marketed under the names “ABIL WAX^®9800 and 9801" by the company Evonik, which are polydialkyl (C₁ to C₂₀) siloxanes.

The silicone gums that can be used according to the disclosure are, for example, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average molecular weights between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or mixed in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane and mixtures thereof.

Products that can be used according to the disclosure are, for example, mixtures such as: mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end, or a dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the SF 1214 Silicone Fluid product from GENERAL ELECTRIC, said product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500,000 , dissolved in SF 1202 oil from Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, for example, a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of an SE 30 rubber as defined above having a viscosity of 20 m ² /s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s. This product, for example, contains 15% SE 30 rubber and 85% SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used according to the disclosure include, without being limited thereto, the crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R ₂ SiO _2/2 , R ₃ SiO _1/2 , RSiO _3/2 and SiO _4/2 , in which R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. For example, R denotes a lower C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group such as methyl.

Among these resins, non-limiting mentions can be made of the product marketed under the name "DOW CORNING 593" or those marketed under the names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC, which are silicones with a dimethyl/ trimethyl siloxane.

Non-limiting mention may also be made of resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type, such as those marketed under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company SHIN-ETSU.

The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the disclosure include, without being limited thereto, silicones as defined above, having in their structure at least one organofunctional group attached by a hydrocarbon group.

In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones can be polydiaryl siloxanes, such as polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized with the aforementioned organofunctional groups.

The polyalkarylsiloxanes are, for example, chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched, with a viscosity ranging from 1 x 10^-5to 5 x 10² m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkarylsiloxanes, non-limiting mentions may be made of the products marketed under the following names: ^SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 range from RHODIA; oils from the ^RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 range from RHODIA; DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; the silicones of the PK range from BAYER such as the PK20 product; the silicones of the PN and PH ranges from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; certain oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC's SF range such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made, without limitation, of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally with C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the oils ^SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12)-methicone copolyol marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee Polymers, or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. Substituted amine groups are, for example, C ₁ -C ₄ aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name “SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL ^WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Evonik.

For example, the fatty substance is chosen from compounds which are liquid or pasty at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. As a further example, the fatty substance is a compound which is liquid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

The fatty substance is, for example, chosen from alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, hydrocarbons, silicones, non-silicone oils, and non-silicone waxes. The non-silicone oils can be chosen from mineral, vegetable and synthetic oils.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid paraffin, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, the fatty substance is selected from alkanes, hydrocarbons and silicones.

The liquid fatty substances are advantageously chosen from C ₆ to C ₁₆ alkanes, non-silicone oils of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acids and liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, or mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, the liquid fatty substance is selected from liquid petroleum jelly, C ₆ to C ₁₆ alkanes, polydecenes, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, and liquid fatty alcohol , or mixtures thereof.

A liquid fatty substance for use according to the present disclosure is mineral oil which may be commercially available from the supplier Sonneborn under the trade name ^Kaydol® Heavy White Mineral Oil or the supplier Exxonmobil Chemical under the trade name Primol™ 352 or from Sonneborn under the trade name Blandol, or at Armedsa under the trade name Aemoil M-302CG or at Exxonmobil Chemical under the trade name Marcol 82.

According to some embodiments, a hair color base may include mineral oil and cetearyl alcohol as fatty substances. For example, the hair color base can include from about 3 to about 7 wt% mineral oil, such as about 4 to about 6 wt%, or about 5 wt%. The hair color base can include from about 3 to about 7 wt% cetearyl alcohol, such as about 4 to about 6 wt%, or about 5 wt%. In some embodiments, the hair color base may include approximately equal amounts of mineral oil and cetearyl alcohol.

In certain embodiments, the at least one fatty substance has a viscosity of about 50 mm ² /s or less at 40°C (kinematic viscosity as measured by the ASTM D 445 method in units of mm ² /s at 40°C). In other embodiments, the at least one fatty substance has a viscosity of more than about 50 mm²/s at 40°C and can be chosen from oils such as mineral oil (kinematic viscosity as measured by the ASTM D 445 method in units of mm ² /s at 40°C).

The hair color base and/or hair color compositions can include at least one rheology modifier, for example an acrylic polymer. When it is present, the at least one acrylic polymer of the present disclosure can, for example, be chosen from crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and/or alkyl esters (C ₁ to C ₆ ) and acrylic associative polymers.

The expression “acrylic polymer” is understood, within the meaning of the present disclosure, to designate a polymer which results from the polymerization of one or more monomers.

The acrylic polymer of the present disclosure may also belong to a group of compounds known as acrylic thickening polymers.

The expression “thickening polymer” is understood, within the meaning of the present disclosure, as meaning a polymer having, in solution or in dispersion containing 1 percent by weight of active material in water or in ethanol at 25° C, a viscosity greater than 0.2 poise at a shear rate of 1 s-1. The viscosity can be measured with a HAAKE RS600 viscometer from THERMO ELECTRON. This viscometer is a controlled stress viscometer of plane-cone geometry (for example having a diameter of 60 mm).

As used herein, the terms "(meth)acrylic acid" and "(meth)acrylate" are intended to include the corresponding methyl derivatives of acrylic acid and the corresponding alkyl acrylate. For example, “(meth)acrylic acid” refers to acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, and “(meth)acrylate” refers to an alkyl acrylate and/or an alkyl methacrylate.

In some embodiments, the acrylic polymer of the present disclosure is selected from cross-linked copolymers of methacrylic acid and a C1-4 alkyl ester.₁ to C₆, wherein the C₁ to C₆ is a C-alkyl acrylate₁to C₆.

The methacrylic acid can be present in amounts ranging from 20 percent to 80 percent by weight, more particularly from 25 percent to 70 percent by weight, such as from 35 percent to 65 percent by weight, based on the total weight of the copolymer.

The alkyl acrylate may be present in amounts ranging from 15 percent to 80 percent by weight, such as 25 percent to 75 percent by weight or 35 percent to 65 percent by weight based on weight total of the copolymer. It can be chosen in particular from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate and more particularly ethyl acrylate.

This copolymer can be partially or completely/substantially crosslinked with at least one standard polyethylenically unsaturated crosslinking agent, for example polyalkenyl ethers of sucrose or polyols, diallyl phthalates, divinylbenzene, allyl (meth)acrylate, di(meth) ethylene glycol acrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (meth)acrylate, and castor oil or polyol derivatives made from carboxylic acids unsaturated. The crosslinking agent content generally ranges from 0.01 percent to 5 percent by weight, such as 0.03 percent to 3 percent by weight or 0.05 percent to 1 percent by weight, reported to the total weight of the copolymer.

In some embodiments, the crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl acrylate is lightly crosslinked. As used herein, the term "lightly crosslinked" refers to a partially crosslinked three-dimensional polymeric network.

In certain other embodiments, the cross-linked copolymer of methacrylic acid and a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl acrylate is alkali swellable. As used herein, "alkali swellable" as it relates to the acrylic polymer of this disclosure refers to a polymer which, when introduced into solution, imparts little or no viscosity, but upon adjustment of pH to slightly acidic, neutral, or slightly basic conditions, a measurable increase in viscosity is observed, i.e., the addition of an alkali or neutralizing agent to a solution containing a swellable polymer to alkalis results in the development of viscosity.

The term "alkali swellable" as used herein can also refer to the expansion of polymer molecules upon neutralization as a result of charge repulsion of the anionic carboxylate groups of the polymer.

According to one form, the crosslinked copolymer of the invention may in particular be in the form of a dispersion of particles in water.

An acrylic polymer of the present disclosure can be selected from a cross-linked (meth)acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer, a cross-linked anionic acrylate polymer, and mixtures thereof.

According to one form, the acrylic polymer of the present disclosure chosen from a crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer and a crosslinked anionic acrylate polymer copolymer may in particular be in the form of a dispersion in the 'water. The average particle size of the copolymers in the dispersion generally ranges from 10 to 500 nm, such as 20 to 200 nm or 50 to 150 nm.

In some embodiments, the cross-linked (meth)acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer is a cross-linked (meth)acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer, also known as an acrylate dispersion copolymer. aqueous, an example of which is a slightly cross-linked alkali-swellable acrylate polymer, known under the INCI name acrylates copolymer and commercially available from the supplier Lubrizol, under the trade name Carbopol ^® Aqua SF-1 in the form of an aqueous dispersion comprising about 30% by weight of total solids or active material. Carbopol ^® Aqua SF-1 has carboxyl functionality in its protonated form. This copolymer belongs to a class of synthetic rheology modifiers which include carboxyl-functional alkali-swellable and alkali-soluble thickeners (AST). These thickening polymers are prepared from the free radical polymerization of acrylic acid alone or in combination with other ethylenically unsaturated monomers. Polymers can be synthesized by solvent/precipitation as well as emulsion polymerization techniques.

Other suitable cross-linked (meth)acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers may be selected from a cross-linked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion containing 38 percent active ingredient, available commercially from the company Coatex under the name Viscoatex™ 538C or a cross-linked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing 28 percent of active ingredient, commercially available from the company Rohm and Haas and sold under the name Aculyn™ 33.

In certain other embodiments, the acrylic polymer of the present disclosure is a cross-linked anionic acrylate polymer. The crosslinked anionic acrylate polymer can be contained in an aqueous dispersion comprising about 32% by weight of total solids. Examples of the cross-linked anionic acrylate polymer of the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, the polymer known by the INCI name acrylates crosspolymer-4 and commercially available from the supplier Lubrizol, under the trade name ^Carbopol® Aqua SF -2, in the form of an aqueous dispersion comprising approximately 32% by weight of total solids or of active material. Acrylates Crosspolymer-4 can also be described as a copolymer of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of its simple esters, cross-linked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

In certain other embodiments, the acrylic polymer of the present disclosure is selected from acrylic associative polymers, also known as acrylic associative thickeners. The expression "associative thickener" is understood according to the invention as meaning an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, in particular comprising at least one C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit .

The associative acrylic thickeners which can be used according to the invention are associative acrylic polymers chosen from: (i) nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit; (ii) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit; (iii) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit; (iv) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit; fatty chains containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The acrylic associative polymers can be chosen from acrylic anionic amphiphilic polymers such as those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester (C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ ) d an unsaturated carboxylic acid type. They can be chosen from those in which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) below:

(II)

formula in which R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and whose hydrophobic unit, of alkyl ester (C10 to C30) of an acid type unsaturated carboxylic acid, corresponds to the monomer of formula (III) below:

(III)

formula in which R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R2 denotes a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl radical and preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ .

The alkyl esters (C10 to C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates , lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are disclosed and prepared, for example, according to U.S. Patent No. 3,915,921 and U.S. Patent No. 4,509,949.

The anionic amphiphilic polymers which can be used in the context of the present disclosure can more particularly denote polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:

(i) acrylic acid and one or more esters of formula (IV) below:

(IV)

in which R1 denotes H or CH3, R2 denotes an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a crosslinking agent, such as, for example, those consisting of 95 percent to 60 percent by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 percent to 40 percent by weight (C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6 percent by weight crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or 98 percent percent to 96 percent by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 percent to 4 percent by weight of C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 percent to 0, 6 weight percent cross-linking polymerizable monomer; And

(ii) essentially acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as the product consisting of 66 weight percent acrylic acid and 34 weight percent lauryl methacrylate.

The crosslinking agent is a monomer containing a group

with at least one other polymerizable group whose unsaturated bonds are not conjugated to each other. Mention may in particular be made of polyallyl ethers such as, in particular, polyallyl sucrose and polyallyl pentaerythritol.

Among said polymers above, the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen™ TR1, Pemulen™ TR2, ^Carbopol® 1382, and the product sold by the company Coatex under the name Coatex ^SX® , can be chosen.

Thus, in certain embodiments, the acrylic polymer of the present disclosure is chosen from an acrylate polymer contained in an aqueous dispersion comprising approximately 30% by weight of active material. This acrylate polymer can be slightly cross-linked and alkali swellable.

In other embodiments, the acrylic polymer of the present disclosure is chosen from a crosslinked anionic acrylate polymer contained in an aqueous dispersion comprising approximately 32% by weight of active material.

In yet other embodiments, the acrylic polymer of the present disclosure is selected from a lightly cross-linked, alkali-swellable acrylate polymer contained in an aqueous dispersion comprising about 30% by weight of active material, an acrylate polymer crosslinked anionic contained in an aqueous dispersion comprising approximately 32% by weight of active material, and mixtures thereof.

In certain other embodiments, the acrylic polymer of the present disclosure is chosen from acrylic associative polymers, in particular acrylic anionic amphiphilic polymers which can be chosen from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of an alkyl ester (C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ ) of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

In certain embodiments, the at least one acrylic polymer of the present disclosure may be a carbomer (4% solution) employed in an amount of from about 0.2% to about 1% by weight, such as from about 0.3% to about 0.9% by weight, from about 0.4% to about 0.8% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 0.7%, such as about 0, 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair color base and/or the hair color composition in which it is present.

Thickening agents and rheology modifying polymers other than the acrylic polymers described above can be added, for example polymeric thickeners and/or non-polymeric thickeners. The polymeric thickener can be chosen from ionic or non-ionic, associative or non-associative polymers. Examples of polymeric thickeners include various native gums. Representative non-polymeric thickening agents include ethoxylated molecules and especially alkyl or acyl ethoxylated derivatives of polyols. These polymers can be physically or chemically modified.

When present, the at least one thickening agent may be employed in the compositions of the present disclosure in an amount of greater than 0% to about 15% by weight, such as from about 0.1% to about 10 % by weight, or from about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair color base and/or the hair color composition in which it is present.

The compositions according to the present disclosure can also comprise at least one cationic polymer. The cationic polymer can be chosen from cationic associative polymers comprising, in their structure, a pendent or terminal hydrophobic chain, for example of the alkyl or alkenyl type, containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The at least one cationic polymer of the compositions can also be chosen from the following:

(1) homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, examples of which are: copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules; the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride described, for example, in document EP 80 976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy; the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company Hercules; vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or quaternized or non-quaternized acrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name GAFQUAT by the company ISP, for example GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT 755, or as a variant the products known under COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937 , dimethylaminoethyl acrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP; vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold, for example, under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP; quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company ISP, and crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ )trialkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ )ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by cross-linking with a compound containing a olefinic unsaturation, such as methylenebisacrylamide.

In at least one embodiment, a cross-linked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the copolymer in mineral oil can be used. This dispersion is sold under the name ^SALCARE® SC 92 by the company Ciba. In some embodiments, a cross-linked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used. These dispersions are sold under the names ^SALCARE® SC 95 and ^SALCARE® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

Other examples are cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the polymers sold under the names JR (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or LR (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation.

(2) Copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxy-propylcelluloses grafted, for example, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium. These are sold under the name CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by National Starch.

(3) Non-cellulose cationic polysaccharides, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Such products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C162 by the company Meyhall.

(4) Polymers of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals.

(5) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared, for example, by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be cross-linked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they contain at least one tertiary amine function, they can be quaternized. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the polymers of adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine sold under the name CARTARETINE F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

(6) Polymers obtained by reaction of at least one polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated C ₃ to C ₈ aliphatic dicarboxylic acids. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid ranges from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino amide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold, for example, under the name HERCOSETT 57, PD 170 or DELSETTE 101 by the company Hercules.

(7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and dialkyldiallylammonium, such as for example: a homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name MERQUAT® 100 and MERQUAT® 280 by the company Nalco (and its counterparts of low average molecular weight by weight) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, sold under the name MERQUAT® 550.

(8) Quaternary diammonium polymers.

(9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers; examples which may be mentioned include the products MIRAPOL A 15, MIRAPOL AD1, MIRAPOL AZ1 and MIRAPOL 175 sold by the company Miranol.

(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, for example the products sold under the names LUVIQUAT FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

(11) Vinylamide homopolymers or copolymers, such as partially hydrolyzed vinylamide homopolymers such as poly(vinylamine/vinylamide).

(12) Cationic polyurethane derivatives, for example those of an elastic nature formed from the reaction: (a1) of at least one cationic unit resulting from at least one tertiary or quaternary amine bearing at least two reactive functions containing labile hydrogen; (a2) at least one mixture of at least two different nonionic units carrying at least two reactive functions containing labile hydrogen, for example chosen from hydroxyl groups, primary or secondary amine groups, and thiol groups; and (b) at least one compound comprising at least two isocyanate functions.

(13) Other cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the disclosure include, for example, cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and chitin derivatives.

Particularly useful cationic polymers in the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium- 51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-70, polyquaternium-73, polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium-75, polyquaternium-76, polyquaternium-77, polyquaternium-78, polyquaternium-79, polyquaternium-80, polyquaternium-81, polyquaternium- 82, polyquaternium-84, polyquaternium-85, polyquaternium-86, polyquaternium-87, polyquaternium-90, polyquaternium-91, polyquaternium-92, polyquaternium-94, and hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride.

Useful cationic polymers include the hydroxyethyl cellulosic polymers POLYMER JR-125, POLYMER JR-400, Polymer JR-30M (polyquaternium 10) available from AMERCHOL; JAGUAR C® 13-S hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, available from Rhodia; and MERQUAT® 100 and 280, a dimethyl dialkyl ammonium (polyquaternium 6) chloride available from Nalco.

When present, the cationic polymer may be present in an amount of greater than 0% to about 5%, such as from about 0.25 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 1 .5% by weight, based on the hair color base and/or the hair color composition in which it is present.

pH

In some embodiments, the pH of the hair color base and/or hair color composition can range from about 8.5 to about 10, or such as from about 8.5 to about 9.5, from about 9.0 to about 9.5, or from about 9.2 to about 9.5. When a colorant is present, the pH of the hair color base and/or hair color composition may vary within the above range depending on the type of colorant included therein. If the pH is below approximately 8.5, the hair color composition may produce an insufficient amount of color transfer or modification. If the pH is above about 10, the hair color composition may unnecessarily damage the hair.

The pH of the oxidant composition can range from about 2 to about 12, such as about 6 to about 11, and can be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying/alkalizing agents which are well known in the art. . In some embodiments, the pH of the oxidant composition is above 7. In other embodiments, the pH of the oxidant composition can be below 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, or about 3 to about 5.

The pH of the hair color composition comprising the hair color base composition and the oxidant component can, at least in certain embodiments, be identical or substantially identical to the pH of the hair color base, for example before mixing the hair color base and oxidant component.

All numbers expressing pH values are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about" which encompasses up to + 3%.

Necessary and process for transferring or changing hair color

A further embodiment of the disclosure includes a hair tinting "kit" or "multi-compartment device" in which a first compartment contains a hair color base comprising a buffer system, and optionally a coloring compound, and a second compartment contains one or more oxidizing components. In another embodiment, a hair tinting "kit" or "multi-compartment device" includes a first compartment containing a hair color base comprising a buffer system, a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing components, and a third compartment containing a dye or a composition comprising a dye.

As described above, the hair color base may be mixed with an oxidizing component, for example when applying it to the keratin fibers or immediately before, such as up to about 30 minutes before, up to about 20 minutes before, or until about 10 minutes before. The term "mixed" and all variations of this term as used herein refers to bringing into contact or combining or reconstituting or dissolving or dispersing or mixing or shaking the hair color base with the oxidant component. It can also mean the introduction of the hair color base into the oxidant component or vice versa. It can also mean placing the hair color base in the same tub or container as the oxidizing component. A coloring compound may optionally be present in the hair color base and/or oxidant component.

The hair color base can be mixed or combined with the oxidant component in a weight ratio of from about 1:1 to about 1:10, such as from about 1:1 to about 1:4, such as from about 1:1 to about 1:3, or from about 1:1 to about 1:2.

Thus, a process of transferring or modifying hair color in accordance with the disclosure comprises contacting a hair color composition comprising the hair color base, an oxidant component, and optionally a colorant, with the hair. The composition that is applied to the hair is formed by mixing the hair color base with the oxidant component.

In at least some embodiments, the hair color base and/or hair color composition may exhibit less odor, and/or may not feel unpleasant on the scalp, and thus be more pleasing to the consumer. Additionally, the hair color base and/or the hair color composition can be easily applied, for example with a standard bowl and brush or bottle.

When applying the composition comprising the hair color base and the oxidizing component and after an optional rest time (exposure time) on the hair, for example, ranging from about 1 to about 60 minutes, such as d about 5 to about 45 minutes, about 5 to about 20 minutes, about 10 to about 20 minutes, or about 20 minutes, the hair is rinsed, optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again, optionally washed with a hair conditioning composition, and rinsed again, then dried. The shampoo and hair conditioning composition can be any conventional shampoo and hair conditioner products.

In addition, regardless of the embodiment forming the use, the mixture or the composition present (e) on the fibers or the hair (resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of the compositions, or from the successive application of the hair color base and the oxidizing compositions ) is left in place for a period of time, generally, from about 1 to about 60 minutes, such as from about 5 to about 45 minutes, or from about 5 to about 20 minutes, or such as from about 10 to about 20 minutes, or such that about 20 minutes.

The temperature at which the hair color transfer or modification process is carried out is generally between room temperature and 80°C, for example between room temperature and 60°C.

It has been surprisingly found that application of the hair color base and/or hair color composition to the fibers results in satisfactory transfer or lightening of the color of the fibers, while minimizing damage to the hair fibers in comparison to commercial or conventional hair color compositions. Coloration achieved using the compositions and processes of this disclosure may also be durable or washout/fade resistant.

Hair color transfer is rated by pitch or level of tone which describes the degree or level of transfer or lift. The pitches range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade or the greater the degree of transfer.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly found that by using the compositions and processes of the present disclosure on hair, the color of the hair was sufficiently lightened such that the degree of transfer (increase in tone height) ranged from 0.5 to 4.5, such as up to 2, 1 to 4, 1.5 to 2.5, 2 to 2.5, or about 2. For example, when the starting pitch before treatment of the hair is 5, and the pitch after treatment of the hair is 7.5, then the degree of transfer or increase in tone is 2.5. At the same time, hair treated with the hair color bases and compositions did not appear as coarse and visually damaged as hair treated with conventional dye or transfer compositions, indicating less damage to the hair. hair fiber in comparison to conventional hair coloring compositions, for example not comprising the hair color base with the buffer system according to the disclosure.

According to various embodiments, the processes and compositions can be used on hair that has not been artificially dyed or pigmented. In additional embodiments, the processes and composition disclosed herein can also be used on hair that has been artificially dyed or pigmented.

Other than in the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about" which encompasses ± 10%, ±9%, ±8%, ±7%, ±6%, ±5%, ±4%, ±3%, ±2%, or ±1%.

"At least one" as used herein means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

“Keratin fiber” can be selected, for example, from human hair.

The term "color modification" or "color modifying" as used herein may refer to the transfer or lightening of hair color. It can also refer to dyeing or coloring the hair or depositing color on the hair. In some cases, it refers to the transfer or lightening of hair color and the depositing of color on the hair at the same time.

"Formed from", as used herein, means obtained from a chemical reaction, where "chemical reaction" includes spontaneous chemical reactions and induced chemical reactions. As used herein, the term "formed of" is intended broadly and does not limit the components of the composition to those listed, for example, as component (i) and component (ii). Further, the phrase "formed of" does not limit the order of addition of components to the composition or require that the listed components (e.g., components (i) and (ii)) be added to the composition. before any other component.

"Hydrocarbons," as used herein, includes alkanes, alkenes, and alkynes, wherein the alkanes include at least one carbon, and the alkenes and alkynes each include at least two carbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may be selected from linear hydrocarbons, branched hydrocarbons, and cyclic hydrocarbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally further comprise at least one intercalated heteroatom in the hydrocarbon chain.

"Silicone compound", as used herein, includes, for example, silica, silanes, silazanes, siloxanes, and organosiloxanes; and refers to a compound comprising at least one silicon; wherein the silicone compound can be selected from linear silicone compounds, branched silicone compounds, and cyclic silicone compounds; further wherein the silicone compound may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the silicone compound may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom interspersed in the silicone chain, wherein the at least one heteroatom is different from the at least one silicon.

"Substituted", as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups , carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

"Polymers", as defined herein, include homopolymers and copolymers formed from two or more different types of monomers.

Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters specifying the broad scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values specified in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective test measurements. The following examples serve to illustrate embodiments of this disclosure without, however, being limiting in nature.

Figures and examples

The amounts of each component in the compositions described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the basic hair color composition.

Table 4: Formulation comp. – Ex. A to Ex. E of the formulation of the subject invention:

INCI Comparative wording Example A Example B Ex.C Example D E.g. Ammonium Hydroxide 5.0 5.5 3.5 5.0 5.5 8.5 Ammonium Bicarbonate ---- 1.5 0.5 1.5 1.5 3.0 Ethanolamine 4.53 0.66 0.66 4.53 0.66 0.66 Glyceryl Lauryl Ether 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Deceth-3 7.7 7.7 7.7 7.7 7.7 7.7 Poloxamer 338 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Peg-4 Rapeseedamide 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 Dye / Pigment(S) ≥ ~5.0 ≥ ~5.0 ≥ ~5.0 ≥ ~5.0 ≥ ~5.0 ≥ ~5.0 Oleyl Alcohol 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 Persea Gratissima Oil 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Edta 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Ammonium Thiolactate 0.8 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hexylene Glycol 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Dipropylene Glycol 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Propylene glycol 6.2 6.2 6.2 6.2 6.2 6.2 Alcohol Denat. 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 Aqua Q.S. 100 Q.S. 100 Q.S. 100 Q.S. 100 Q.S. 100 Q.S. 100 Various ≤ 3 ≤ 3 ≤ 3 ≤ 3 ≤ 3 ≤ 3

Example F is an illustrative example of the formulation of the subject invention in a cream/paste/gel formulation:

INCI UINCIE Ex.F Ammonium Hydroxide 10.,0 Ammonium Bicarbonate ≤ 5..0 Ethanolamine 1.0 Glycol Distearate 2.0 Cetearyl Alcohol ~12 Cocos Nucifera Oil 0.20 Dye/Pigment 0.15 Edta 0.20 Silica Dimethyl Silylate 1.20 Hexadimethrine Chloride 4.0 Propylene glycol 10.0 Surfactants 25.0 Aqua Q.S. 100 Various ≤4

Oxidizing composition (to be mixed with each of the formulations in Table 4: comparative formulation and Ex. A to Ex. E)

US INCI Formula I
(20 volumes)
% in weight HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
(50% activity in water) 12 Other ingredients for each formula: water, glycerin, tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-25, trideceth-2 carboxamide mea, sodium salicylate

Studies of c color hair ; measurements c olorim etric

Examples A through E of the subject compositions resulted in faster processing time, and more controlled reaction, with greater delta L. Faster processing time and more controlled reaction contributes to less damage and more controlled color deposit/lift compared to the comparative formulation.

The agent for modifying hair color was prepared by mixing an alkaline liquid color base composition (pH > 10) (comparative formulation and Ex. A to E), and an illustrative cream color base composition (pH > 10) (Ex. F), and an oxidizing composition and it was used to color the hair at the time of use in the following way: 10 g of the base composition of shade A were mixed with 10 g the oxidizing composition of Table 2; the resulting mixture was applied to locks of hair; the locks of hair were then washed with shampoo, they were rinsed and then dried.

If desired, the color base composition can be mixed with the oxidant composition in a 1:1 ratio, or a 1:2 ratio or a 1:3 ratio. The resulting mixture has a pH of more than 7.

Each of the formulas (comparative formula and Ex. A to E) above were mixed with an oxidizing composition to form the agent for modifying the color of the hair (highlights). After dyeing the hair, the color of the locks was measured with a Minolta CM2600d spectrocolorimeter (specular components included, angle of 10 degrees, illuminant D65) in the CIE L*a*b* system. In this system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the colorimetric green/red axis and b* is the colorimetric blue/yellow axis.

According to this system, the greater the value of L, the lighter or less intense the color. Conversely, the lower the value of L, the darker or more intense the color.

DELTA E represents the color change between a control (undyed/untreated) lock of hair and a treated (or dyed) lock of hair, and is determined from the change in L* values, a* values and b values *.

The colorimetric results obtained are given in FIGS. 1 and 2, and in the tables below.

Delta-L equation: –

Hair Prep: Using 1 gram of virgin BN hair (90% gray, undamaged) apply a 1:1 mixture of tint and 20V developer using a 3:1 bath ratio. Leave to cure for the desired time on a hot plate at 27°C. Eliminate, rinse, and shampoo. L* collected using Data Color. After dyeing the hair, the color of the locks was measured with a Minolta CM2600d spectrocolorimeter (specular components included, angle of 10 degrees, illuminant D65) in the CIE L*a*b* system.

Figure 1 is a graph showing treatment times for hair treated with a composition according to the present disclosure and hair treated with a comparative composition (reference). As shown in Figure 1, the formulation comp. of Table 1 with Ex. D. The difference between the comp. and Ex. D of the subject invention shows that by adding the alkaline buffer system of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate and MEA, the reaction is buffered to reduce workup after 10 minutes.

Table 7 below details the data in Figure 1:

Time ∆ I comparative wording ∆L Ex. D 0 0 0 5 23.19 35.93 10 30.67 38.25 15 31.38 39.16 20 33.95 40.07 30 36.15 41.22

Figure 2 demonstrates variations in processing time as a function of ratio and/or wt% of alkalizing agents of the subject composition and method, compared to the subject formulation of Ex. B, Ex. D and Ex. E. The levels of use of ammonium bicarbonate in the system were compared for Ex. B, Ex. D and Ex. E. Ex. B at 0.5%, Ex. D at 1.5% and Ex .E at 3.0%. The graph illustrates that the buffering capacity does not increase with an increase in ammonium bicarbonate. For this system, optimal buffering was achieved using 1.5% ammonium bicarbonate, Ex. D. The graph further demonstrates the synergism of the ammonium bicarbonate to ammonium hydroxide ratios of the alkaline system. Preferably, the ratio of ammonium bicarbonate to ammonium hydroxide ranges from about 1:>1 to about 1:5. The ratio of ammonium bicarbonate to ammonium hydroxide can range from about 1:1.1 to about 1:3. The ratio of MEA to ammonium bicarbonate and ammonium hydroxide is preferably about 1:>1 to 1:20; and most preferably about 1:2 to 1:5.

Table 8 presents the data from Figure 2 below:

Time ∆L Ex. B ∆L Ex. D ∆L Ex. E 0 0 0 0 5 28.8 35.93 33.91 10 35.01 38.25 38.11 15 36.12 39.16 38.89 20 38.45 40.07 41.11 30 40.29 41.22 41.38

Figure 3 is a graph showing the effect of MEA in the alkaline system (ammonium bicarbonate on ammonium hydroxide). This graph shows the effect of including MEA in the alkaline system, showing Example A having 0.66 wt% MEA, and Example C having 4.52 wt% MEA. The alkaline ammonium hydroxide-bicarbonate system uses a small amount of MEA for neutralization, about 0.01 wt% up to about 1.0 wt%, preferably less than 0.66 wt%, but not enough to have an effect on oxidative hair color transfer or deposition. It was found that an increase in the amount of MEA, as in Example C at 4.52% by weight, resulted in a decrease in the reaction buffering effect that ammonium bicarbonate has on the system. . While Example A's reaction effect plateaus, exhibiting controlled reaction time and controlled deposition; Example C stiffens or accelerates too quickly and noticeably, resulting in less controlled reaction and deposition. Example A is more linear, leveling off, while example C continues to rise. As a result, the buffer system of Example A with the least amount of MEA results in less over-processing, with less depth at all times, and more uniform controlled color deposition/lifting.

Table 9 specifies the data in Figure 3 below:

Time ∆L Ex. AT ∆L Ex. VS 0 0 0 5 2.85 3.72 10 2.82 5.49 15 3.25 6.19 20 4.43 7.26 30 5.25 8.45

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations may be practiced in the delivery system, compositions and methods of the invention without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, this disclosure is intended to cover modifications and variations of the present invention provided they come within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims (10)

Hair color base comprising a buffer system, wherein the buffer system comprises:
0.1 wt% to 10 wt% ammonium hydroxide;
0.1 wt% to 5 wt% ammonium bicarbonate;
optionally, 0.01 wt% to 5 wt% monoethanolamine (MEA);
wherein the total weight % is based on the total weight of the buffer system. Hair color base according to claim 1, wherein the % by weight of ammonium hydroxide is greater than the % by weight of ammonium bicarbonate, based on the total weight of the buffer system. A hair color base according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of ammonium bicarbonate to ammonium hydroxide ranges from 1: greater than 1 to 1:5. Hair color base according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of MEA to ammonium bicarbonate and ammonium hydroxide ranges from 1: greater than 1 to 1:20. A hair color base according to claim 1, wherein the hair color base further comprises at least one hair color compound. Hair color base according to Claim 5, in which at least one hair coloring compound is chosen from oxidation tint precursors. Hair color composition comprising:
a hair color base comprising a buffer system, wherein the buffer system comprises:
0.1 wt% to 10 wt% ammonium hydroxide;
0.1 wt% to 5 wt% ammonium bicarbonate;
optionally, 0.01 wt% to 5 wt% monoethanolamine (MEA);
20% by weight to 45% by weight of one or more surfactants;
0.1% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one fatty compound or of an oil;
optionally at least one hair dye;
wherein the wt% is based on the total weight of the hair color composition. A hair color composition according to claim 7, comprising up to 10% by weight of the buffer system, based on the total weight of the hair color composition. A hair color composition according to claim 7, wherein the % by weight of ammonium hydroxide is greater than or equal to the % by weight of ammonium bicarbonate, based on the total weight of the buffer system. Multi-compartment kit for changing hair color, including:
a first compartment comprising a hair color composition comprising a buffer system, wherein the buffer system comprises 0.1 wt% to 10 wt% ammonium hydroxide; 0.1 wt% to 5 wt% ammonium bicarbonate; optionally, 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight monoethanolamine (MEA), based on the total weight of the buffer system; And
a second compartment comprising an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.