FR3114237A1 - Cosmetic composition with evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition with an evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:(i) at least one nonionic emulsifying system with an HLB ≥ 9 based on glucoside of fatty alkyl and fatty alcohol;(ii) at least one fatty alkyl phosphate anionic emulsifier;(iii) at least one carbomer type gelling agent;(iv) at least one feel powder; and(v) at least one esterified oil, preferably of plant origin, based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of a saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol;said composition being free of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone , sulfated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulfate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol. The present invention also relates to a use of components (i) to (v) for the formulation of a composition referred to by the invention. Figure abbreviated: Fig. 2

Description

Cosmetic composition with evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion

Technical field of the invention

The present invention relates to cosmetic body care compositions in the form of a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion with an evolving texture and advantageous sensory properties, free from certain undesirable compounds often presented as essential in the formulation of products cosmetics.

State of the art

Cosmetic body care compositions are widely used on a daily basis. In the development of formulations for body care products, the texture and sensory properties are important criteria for their commercial success. Indeed, the final consumer's choice is based both on technical performance criteria and on sensory criteria and immediate well-being provided by the cosmetic formulations applied to the skin. Moreover, the exclusion of controversial ingredients for the preparation of cosmetic formulations is also an element of the commercial success of these products because it responds to a growing concern of consumers: their health.

These two axes of performance are difficult to reconcile with the dosage forms available on the market. Indeed, some cosmetic components now categorized as undesirable have long been considered essential in cosmetics. This is the case for example:
- sulphated detergents such as sodium lauryl sulphate, essentially used as a surfactant, which is a well-known irritant, and which is moreover frequently used to experimentally induce contact dermatitis;
- aromatic glycol ethers such as phenoxyethanol, a preservative considered harmful especially for pregnant women and young children, as it is considered haematotoxic and hepatotoxic; And
- silicone compounds such as cyclomethicone, which partly consists of cyclopentasiloxane and cyclotetrasiloxane, which have shown endocrine disrupting effects. Cyclotetrasiloxane in particular is classified as toxic to reproduction. Highly volatile, the silicone compounds provide a non-greasy feel and promote the spreading of the product on the skin.

For example, the exclusion of sulphated detergents such as sodium lauryl sulphate, a powerful surfactant, is particularly problematic for formulations in emulsion form where surfactants are essential.

There are numerous compositions formulated in the form of an emulsion of the O/W or W/O type. This is the case in particular of cosmetic compositions. An emulsion is a macroscopically homogeneous but microscopically heterogeneous mixture of an oily (or lipophilic) phase and an aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase that are immiscible liquids, such as water and an oil. One phase is dispersed in the second phase as droplets. For a W/O type emulsion, the water is dispersed in the oil. The choice of the surfactant system becomes delicate since it directly influences the stability of the emulsion. Substitution of one surfactant by another can cause instability of the emulsion appearing during its storage. This stability problem can induce a drop in viscosity, and/or a very coarse microscopic appearance with the presence of oil in the aqueous phase, or conversely a presence of water in the oily phase, which is obviously not desired. . When trying to stabilize an emulsion, it turns out that it is not easy to obtain both stabilization of the emulsion without negatively affecting the sensoriality of the final composition perceived by the user or the user, and vice versa. If the sulfated detergent(s) are replaced by other surfactants, in addition to the stability aspect, the sensoriality and/or the texture may be modified. The same is true for the substitution of silicone compounds such as cyclomethicone and aromatic glycol ethers such as phenoxyethanol, which modifies the sensoriality and/or the texture of the composition.

Furthermore, in the field of skin care formulation, in particular anti-aging or skin firming care, one of the major challenges is to introduce high-performance biological active ingredients into emulsions while providing (or keeping ) a good level of sensoriality and cosmetic approval in order to encourage the use of these products and thus intensify their observed effects on the skin through regular and repeated use. To obtain high levels of performance, these active ingredients can be used at high rates, but can however pose sensory problems such as the provision of a sticky and/or rough effect on the skin during the treatment phase. application and/or after penetration of the product into the skin. Thus, another challenge for the formulator of skin care products is to offer pleasant and adequate textures in terms of sensoriality for the consumer target. Indeed, consumers likely to use anti-aging or skin-firming care have specific problems and sensory needs for their skin, such as a need for rich, nutritious, soothing, moisturizing, softening, protecting the elasticity of the skin and which do not soap. This is the case, for example, of one of the flagship products of the L'Occitane en Provence brand, "Concentré de Lait Amande", which has an original texture similar to a flan (which develops over time) and an evolving sensoriality. (rich but quickly absorbed). This double evolving property in texture and sensoriality is unique and widely appreciated and sought after by users.

The so-called "soaping" phenomenon mentioned above is characterized by the appearance of a whitish film on the skin, when the formulation is applied to the skin. This criterion is evaluated by visual observation of its existence and/or the speed of its appearance. It can be reduced by the addition of additives in cosmetic formulations, such as silicone oils as described in Ref. 1 , silicone polymers comprising a polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene chain ( Ref. 2 ), or partially or totally crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers comprising a polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene chain ( Ref. 3 ). However, these technical solutions have the major drawback of introducing silicone compounds, considered undesirable, as discussed above.

There therefore remains the need to provide compositions for caring for the skin in the form of an emulsion:
- enriched with active molecules;
- stable;
- providing a double evolutionary property in texture and sensoriality; And
- free from the so-called "soaping" phenomenon.

There also remains the need for cosmetic compositions free of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol, while making it possible to maintain/obtain the texture and sensoriality targets sought by consumers without posing problems of discomfort, sensory pleasure or stability.

Thus, the aim of the invention is to solve the technical problem consisting in providing a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of a stable emulsion, with an evolving structure, and free from the so-called “soaping” phenomenon.

The present invention also aims to provide such a composition without altering the sensory aspect perceived by the user.

The present invention also aims to provide such a composition without resorting to silicone compounds such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergents such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ethers such as phenoxyethanol, controversial ingredients which are become undesirable in the formulation of cosmetic compositions.

Another object of the present invention is to identify one or more substances making it possible to formulate a composition with an evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, without negatively affecting the sensoriality of the final composition.

The plaintiff found, surprisingly, that the association:
(i) a nonionic emulsifying system with an HLB ≥ 9, preferably an HLB ≥ 10, based on fatty alkyl glucoside and fatty alcohol, preferably in a fatty alkyl glucoside/fatty alcohol mass ratio ranging from 10/90 to 30/70, preferably from 15/85 to 25/75, preferably from 18/82 to 22/78, most preferably around 20/80;
(ii) an anionic fatty alkyl phosphate emulsifier, preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate;
(iii) a carbomer type gelling agent;
(iv) a feel powder, preferably chosen from natural or modified starches, preferably of natural origin; And
(v) at least one esterified oil preferably of vegetable origin based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a caprylic/capric acid ester C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol;
made it possible to solve all the aforementioned technical problems.

The applicant has in fact found, surprisingly, that it is possible to obtain a composition fulfilling all of the desired criteria (containing active molecules, stable, providing a dual property that evolves in texture and sensoriality, which does not soap, and free from silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol), using an emulsion containing the combination of components (i) to (v) mentioned above -above. The particular association of components (i) to (v) makes it possible to obtain an emulsion with W/O orientation, which means that soaping is not required.

Definitions

To facilitate understanding of the invention, a number of terms and expressions are defined below:

As will be obviously apparent to a person skilled in the art, when the enumerated variables are grouped together in a group, such as in a Markush group, the mention of the group encompasses not only the whole enumerated group as a whole, but each member of the group individually and all the possible subgroups of the main group. Thus, it is understood that the reference to a group encompasses not only the main group, but also the main group in the absence of one or more of the members of the group. The reading of a group mentioned in this description must therefore be understood as also covering the explicit exclusion of one or more members of a group mentioned, in addition to the group taken as a whole. Accordingly, it is understood that disclaimers may apply to any of the categories or embodiments disclosed herein, under which one or more of the elements, variations or modes of mentioned embodiment may be excluded from the claimed scope, for example, by means of an explicit negative limitation.

In what follows, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain.

DESCRIPTION OF CERTAIN ADVANTAGEOUS EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

Thus, the first subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition with an evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(i) at least one nonionic emulsifying system of HLB ≥ 9, preferably of HLB ≥ 10, based on fatty alkyl glucoside and fatty alcohol, preferably in a fatty alkyl glucoside/fatty alcohol mass ratio ranging from 10/90 to 30/70, preferably from 15/85 to 25/75, preferably from 18/82 to 22/78, most preferably around 20/80;
(ii) at least one anionic fatty alkyl phosphate emulsifier, preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate;
(iii) at least one carbomer type gelling agent;
(iv) at least one feel powder, preferably chosen from natural or modified starches, preferably of natural origin; And
(v) at least one esterified oil preferably of vegetable origin based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a caprylic/capric acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol;
said composition being free of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol.

In the context of the present invention, unless otherwise stated, the term “fatty acid” is understood to mean an aliphatic chain carboxylic acid with a carbon chain of 4 to 22 carbon atoms. Among the family of fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, dodecanoic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapienic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, trans-vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linolelaic acid, α-linolenic acid , γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, and clupanodonic acid.

In the context of the present invention, unless otherwise stated, the term “fatty alcohol” means an alcohol comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chain corresponding to a fatty acid carbon chain known to those skilled in the art. It can be a carbon chain obtained from a fatty acid such as caprylic acid, capric acid, caproic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, dodecanoic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, sapienic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, trans-vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linolelaidic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, or clupanodonic acid.

By analogy, “fatty alkyl” means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chain corresponding to a fatty acid carbon chain known to those skilled in the art, as defined above.

In the context of the present invention, unless otherwise stated, the term "Cx-Cy acid" and "Cx-Cy alcohol" means an acid and an alcohol, respectively, comprising a linear or branched aliphatic carbon chain which may comprise x to y carbon atoms, for example from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. By analogy, “Cx-Cy alkyl” means a linear or branched aliphatic carbon chain which may comprise from x to y carbon atoms.

Since the compositions of the invention are intended for topical application to the skin, they comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes and the keratin fibers (such as hair, eyelashes), preferably skin.

Non-ionic emulsifying system

Advantageously, the nonionic emulsifying system can have an HLB of 10. The nonionic emulsifying system can advantageously comprise a C12 to C22 fatty alkyl glucoside, preferably from C16 to C18, and a C12 to C22 fatty alcohol, from preferably from C16 to C18. The C12 to C22 fatty alkyl glucoside, and the C12 to C22 fatty alcohol may be present in a fatty alkyl glucoside/fatty alcohol ratio of 10/90 to 30/70, for example from 15/85 to 25/65, preferably 20/80.

Most particularly, the glucoside can be a D-glucopyranoside. For example, the nonionic emulsifying system can comprise a mixture of cetearyl D-glucopyranoside and cetearyl alcohol, preferably in the aforementioned ratios. It may be, for example, a 20/80 cetearyl glucoside/cetearyl alcohol mixture. It is possible to use, for example, Emulgade PL 68/50 ^TM marketed by the company BASF.

The surprising particularity of the use of a nonionic emulsifier of HLB ≥ 9, preferably of HLB ≥ 10, based on C12 to C22 fatty alkyl glucoside, preferably from C16 to C18 and fatty alcohol in C12 to C22, preferably from C16 to C18 as previously described (eg cetearyl glucoside/cetearyl alcohol 20/80) within the scope of the invention is that it is a nonionic emulsifier H /E, because its hydrophilic part predominates over its lipophilic chain (HLB=10). However, when it is advantageously combined with an anionic emulsifier based on fatty alkyl phosphate, preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate, as described above and below (e.g. a salt potassium fatty alkyl phosphate C14 to C18) it allows the development of W / O emulsions according to the present invention.

Advantageously, the nonionic emulsifying system can be present at a rate of 1 to 5% by weight, preferably 2.0 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 2.2 to 2.8% by weight, relative to the weight composition total.

Anionic emulsifier

Advantageously, the anionic emulsifier may comprise an alkali metal salt of C12 to C22 fatty alkyl phosphate, preferably C13 to C20, preferably C14 to C18. It may for example be an alkali metal salt of cetyl phosphate, preferably a potassium salt of cetyl phosphate. For example, it is possible to use a potassium cetyl phosphate marketed under the name Evermat 160 K ^TM by the company Sino Lion.

Advantageously, the anionic emulsifier may be present at a rate of 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 0.4% by weight, preferably 0 1 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

gelling agent

Advantageously, the gelling agent can comprise at least one carbomer compound.

In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term “carbomer” is understood to mean an optionally crosslinked homopolymer, resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore an optionally crosslinked poly(acrylic acid). Among the carbomers that can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of those marketed under the names Tego®Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbopol® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol® ETD 2050 from Lubrizol, or else Carbopol® Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol.

The term “carbomer” also encompasses polymers of high molecular weight acrylic acid crosslinked with allylic sucrose or allylic ethers of pentaerythritol (handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5 ^th Edition, plll). For example, it may be Carbopol®910, Carbopol®934, Carbopol®934P, Carbopol®940, Carbopol®941, Carbopol®71 G, Carbopol®980, Carbopol®971 P or Carbopol®974P from Lubrizol. Mention may also be made of Carbopol® Clear Polymer from Lubrizol.

Carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.

Preferably, the carbomer will advantageously be chosen from homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene. For example, the carbomer marketed under the name Carbopol®940 can be used. by Lubrizol.

Advantageously, the carbomer gelling agent may be present at a rate of 0.05 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.20 to 0.40% by weight, preferably 0.28 to 0.35% by weight, relative to the weight composition total.

touch powder

In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, "touch powder" means a powder of natural origin obtained from starch, providing slipperiness, matt softness and sensoriality. It is typically used in cosmetics for a powdery, slippery and soft finish without a greasy effect. It leaves a silky film on the skin.

Advantageously, the touch powder can be chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, peas, natural or modified, preferably natural. For example, the touch powder can advantageously be tapioca starch, natural or modified, preferably natural.

Advantageously, the feel powder may be present in a proportion of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Esterified oil

Advantageously, the fatty phase of the W/O composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise at least one esterified oil, preferably of plant origin, based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of saturated C12 fatty alcohol. -18. It may be for example an esterified oil derived from coconut oil, comprising a mixture of a caprylic acid ester of saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol and a capric ester of fatty alcohol saturated with C12-18. For example, it will be possible to use the caprylate/caprate coconut oil marketed under the name Cetiol C5 ^TM by the company BASF.

Advantageously, the esterified oil, preferably of plant origin, based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of a saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol can be present in a proportion of 4 to 14% by weight, preferably 6 to 12% by weight, preferably 8 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

By oil, we mean a substance composed of identical or different molecules having hydrophobic properties and liquid at room temperature.

At the end of a long research program, the applicant has identified that the particular combination of a nonionic emulsifying system with HLB ≥ 9 based on fatty alkyl glucoside and fatty alcohol, preferably in a mass ratio fatty alkyl/fatty alcohol glucoside ranging from 10/90 to 30/70, preferably from 15/85 to 25/75, preferably from 18/82 to 22/78, most preferably around 20/80, of an anionic emulsifier based on fatty alkyl phosphate, a gelling agent of the carbomer type, a feel powder, and an esterified oil, preferably of vegetable origin, based on a C8 fatty acid ester -C10 of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, as defined above, made it possible to obtain a composition in the form of a W/O emulsion fulfilling all the desired criteria (containing active molecules, stable, providing double property evolving in texture and sensoriality, which does not soap, and free of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, of detergent nt sulphated such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol), without negatively affecting the sensoriality of the final composition.

In the context of the present invention, unless otherwise stated, the term “evolving texture” is understood to mean a texture which develops over time. In other words, the texture of the final composition varies between the moment when the composition is prepared, and the moment when it reaches its peak of maturation (final texture). The texture of a cosmetic formulation can be characterized by its resistance to flow. It can be determined empirically, by visual observation of the flow of the cosmetic formulation under the effect of gravity and/or by measuring a maximum compression force implemented using a texturometer. equipped with a measurement probe and connected to data processing software. By convention, a composition will be said to be texture-changing if the texture (consistency) changes by ≥ 5% by one of the aforementioned methods 30 days after its preparation.

Advantageously, the combination of components (i) to (v) described above makes it possible to obtain a texture which evolves to a consistency similar to that of a flan.

In the context of the present invention, unless otherwise stated, the term “stable” is understood to mean an emulsion which remains homogeneous on storage at room temperature (20 ± 5° C.) after a minimum period of one month, independently of the evolution of its texture. The homogeneity of the composition can be evaluated by visual observation and/or by observation under a microscope of the composition spread on a slide. With regard to W/O emulsions, the emulsion will be considered stable if, when observed under a microscope, the size of the water droplets in the oily phase remains substantially homogeneous at room temperature for a minimum of one month. Conversely, a W/O emulsion will be considered as not fulfilling the stability criterion if, at the end of a storage period of at least one month at room temperature, no coalescence of the drops of water is observed. water leading to a very coarse microscopic appearance with the presence of water in the oily phase.

According to another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of the combination
(i) at least one nonionic emulsifying system of HLB ≥ 9, preferably of HLB ≥ 10, based on fatty alkyl glucoside and fatty alcohol, preferably in a fatty alkyl glucoside/fatty alcohol ranging from 10/90 to 30/70, preferably from 15/85 to 25/75, preferably from 18/82 to 22/78, most preferably around 20/80;
(ii) at least one anionic emulsifier based on fatty alkyl phosphate, preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate;
(iii) at least one gelling agent of the carbomer type, such as homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene;
(iv) at least one feel powder, preferably chosen from natural or modified starches, preferably of natural origin, such as corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch, natural or modified, preferably natural, most preferably tapioca starch; And
(v) at least one esterified oil preferably of vegetable origin based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a caprylic/capric acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol;
for the formulation of a composition with evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

Since the composition is a cosmetic composition, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” in the present invention means a non-toxic medium, compatible with all keratin materials, in particular the skin.

As regards W/O emulsions, the compositions according to the present invention naturally contain an aqueous phase and an oily phase.

Aqueous phase

A cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase included in the compositions according to the invention which is in the form of a W/O emulsion contains water, and can conventionally contain one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents. The cosmetically acceptable solvents can more particularly be chosen from polyhydric alcohols such as, for example, glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, or water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol.

The expression "cosmetically acceptable" used in the definition of the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention which is in the form of a W/O emulsion, means that said aqueous phase comprises water and any substance or preparation intended to be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genitalia) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning, perfume, modify their appearance, protect them, keep them in good condition and/or correct body odours.

Oil phase

The oily phase consists of oils and of all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents which may be present in the composition of the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily phase does not contain silicone oil, in order to meet the specifications for the exclusion of silicone compounds which are a source of controversy in cosmetics.

Since component (v) is an esterified oil, it will form part of the oily phase.

Examples of other oil phase constituents include vegetable or non-vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, butters and waxes.

The term “hydrocarbon oil” is understood to mean a non-silicone oil, that is to say any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups. By “plant” or “of plant origin”, is meant a substance extracted or derived from one or more parts of one or more plants. This therefore excludes in particular compounds derived from an animal.

As examples of hydrocarbon oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;
- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean oils, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as coconut oil caprylate/caprate marketed under the name Cetiol C5 ^TM such as those sold by BASF or those of the miglyol family, for example those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R ₁ COOR ₂ and R ₁ OR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin's oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, stearate of octyl-2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631);
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil.

Hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin are very particularly preferred. Component (v) may preferably be an esterified oil of vegetable origin, based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a caprylic acid ester/ C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol capric acid. For example, component (v) may be caprylate/caprate coconut oil marketed under the name Cetiol C5 ^TM by the company BASF.

As previously discussed, esterified oils preferably of vegetable origin (component (v)) based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a fatty acid ester caprylic/capric C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol are particularly preferred. It may be for example an esterified oil derived from coconut oil, comprising a mixture of a caprylic acid ester of saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol and a capric ester of fatty alcohol saturated with C12-18. For example, it will be possible to use the caprylate/caprate coconut oil marketed under the name Cetiol C5 ^TM by the company BASF.

It will be noted that isononyl isononanoate is also part of the family of synthetic esters and ethers defined above. However, as mentioned previously, it is advantageously replaced by esterified oil (v) preferably of vegetable origin (natural origin), which makes it possible to obtain the target texture and sensoriality.

As examples of fatty substances of natural origin optionally present in the composition which is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols of plant origin; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids of plant origin; esters of fatty alcohols and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids of vegetable origin, such as for example butyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, decyl oleate, diisopropyl, diethylhexyl sebacate, ethyl linoleate, trilaurin, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isostearyl isostearate, myristyl myristate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate , ethylhexyl cocoate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, octyldodecyl myristate, pentaerylthrityl tetraisostearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, stearyl caprylate, stearyl heptanoate, triisostearin, behenyl behenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate, pentaerylthrityl tetracaprylate/tetracaprate, hexacaprylate/capra te of dipentaerythrityl; ethers of fatty alcohols and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids of plant origin; linear or branched alkanes of vegetable origin, such as for example phytosqualane; linear or branched alkenes of plant origin, such as for example phytosqualene; ethoxylated vegetable oils; ethoxylated methyl esters of plant origin; waxes of vegetable origin, such as for example carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, and beeswax.

The compositions according to the present invention may typically comprise one or more topically acceptable adjuvants or excipients known to those skilled in the art (with the exception of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol), and optionally one or more active ingredients.

Among the topically acceptable adjuvants or excipients, mention may be made, for example, of co-emulsifying surfactants, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, thickening and/or gelling surfactants, sequestering agents, hydrotropes, plasticizers, mineral thickeners, organic thickeners, associative or not, perfumes, superfatting agents, alkanizing agents, acidifying agents, reducing agents, antioxidants, fatty substances of natural origin, preservatives, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texture agents, mineral fillers, dyes or any other topically acceptable adjuvant or excipient (with the exception of silicone compounds such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulfate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol) that can be cited in the INCI dictionary (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) published by the PCPC (Personal Care Products Council).

Among the cosmetic active agents, mention may be made, for example, of the active principles having a moisturizing action, a tightening action, a soothing or relaxing action, an anti-inflammatory action, a slimming action, a lipolytic action, a draining action, a detoxifying action, a action an energizing, relaxing action, a stimulating action, an emollient action, a neuromodulating action, a protective action, a purifying, sebum-regulating, anti-hair loss action, an anti-aging action, a firming, restructuring, anti-radical or antioxidant action, or a mixture of at least two of these active ingredients. These active agents can be those commonly used in cosmetic and/or dermatological products. Such active principles are for example N-acylated proteins, N-acylated peptides such as for example MATRIXIL^TM, the N-acylated amino acids in their acid and/or salified forms such as, for example, N-(w-undecylenoyl) phenylalanine marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name SEPIWHITE^TMMSH, octanoylglycine marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name LIPACIDE^TMC8G, undecylenoylglycine marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name LIPACIDE^TMUG, partial N-acylated protein hydrolysates, amino acids, peptides, total protein hydrolysates, fat-soluble vitamins, fat-soluble vitamin derivatives such as, for example, Retinol, vitamin E and its derivatives, water-soluble vitamins and / or water-dispersible such as Vitamin C and its derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and its derivatives, ascorbyl glucoside, phytic acid, fruit acids, aqueous or hydroalcoholic or hydroglycolic extracts of polyphenols, quinoa, parsnip, potentilla, grape, wine, olive extracts, pomace extracts, polyols (for example, glycerine or butylene glycol), milk derivatives, or the various components used in the composition of NMF (natural moisturizing factor) for example urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid or derivatives of this acid, amino acids, mineral salts, sugars or sugar derivatives, polysaccharides or their derivatives, hydroxy acids, for example lactic acid, aqueous or hydroalcoholic or hydroglycolic plant extracts, such as plant extracts rich in tannins, plant extracts rich in isoflavones or plant extracts rich in terpenes, algae extracts of fresh or marine water, marine extracts in general such as corals, bacterial extracts; minerals such as GIVOBIO^TM, calcium, magnesium, copper, cobalt, zinc, lithium or manganese derivatives, silver or gold salts; active ingredients with an energizing or stimulating property such as SEPITONIC^TMM3 or Physiogenyl^TM; self-tanning active agents such as, for example, dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose; moisturizing or restructuring active ingredients for the epidermis, such as AQUAXYL^TM, lipids in general, lipids such as ceramides or phospholipids, active ingredients having a slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP^TMMP, anti-aging active ingredients such as SEPILIFT^TMDPHP, LIPACID^TMPVB, active ingredients that increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components, for example, collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans, active ingredients that act favorably on chemical cellular communication such as cytokines or physical ones such as integrins, active ingredients that create a sensation of " heating” on the skin, such as cutaneous microcirculation activators (example of nicotinates) or products creating a feeling of “coolness” on the skin (example of menthol and its derivatives); honey ; floral waters such as water from young barley shoots. Examples of anti-aging agents include for example oat extract, extracts obtained by biotechnology, for example hyaluronic acid, seaweed extracts, bioferments, bio-saccharide gum-1, saccharide gum- 2, saccharide gum-3, saccharide gum-4, sugars, e.g. glucose, sucrose, fructose, honeys, flower nectars, fruit juices, polysaccharides, e.g. saccharide gum-1, saccharide gum-2, saccharide gum-3, saccharide gum-4, peptides, for example peptides resulting from an association of amino acids, or resulting from the cutting of proteins by biotechnology, for example dipeptides, tetrapeptides and/or oligopeptides. Examples of moisturizing agents include for example glycerin, hyaluronic acid, polysaccharides, products from beekeeping, for example honey. Examples of soothing agents include, for example, bisabolol or allantoin. Examples of agents acting on the microcirculation include, for example, extracts of corallina officinalis. Examples of firming agents include for example rye extract (rich in arabinoxylans), caffeine, tensor agents for example hibiscus oligopeptides, almond proteins. This or these agent(s) can be used in the composition of the present invention, for example at the concentrations usually used and known to those skilled in the art in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

Among the cosmetic active agents, mention may be made, for example, of the cosmetic active agents obtained from plants, such as a plant extract, an essential oil and/or any extract capable of being obtained from a plant material. It may for example be an extract obtained from all or part of a plant, for example flowers, stems, buds, fruits, roots, flowering tops, twigs, bark , radioles. It may be, for example, an everlasting flower extract ( Helichrysum Italicum ), angelica, almond, almond milk, cade, rosemary, sandalwood, chestnut, coriander, camelina, evening primrose, borage, apples, rice, meadowsweet, lemon, myrtle, water clover, sea lily, wintergreen, kniphofia, narcissus, white lupine, daisy, iris, pine, raspberry, blackcurrant, beech or any mixture thereof.

Among the cosmetic active agents, mention may also be made, for example THE natural cosmetic active ingredients such as honey, for example acacia honey, thyme honey, orange blossom honey.

Preparation

The cosmetic compositions with a changing texture in the form of a W/O emulsion according to the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a W/O emulsion, in particular in the cosmetics field. The method may include a step of mixing surfactants in water (e.g., components (i) and (ii)). It may also be, for example, a process comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a turbine of the rotor-stator type. Thus, the process may comprise (a) preparation of a fatty phase, (b) preparation of an aqueous phase, (c) incorporation of the aqueous phase obtained in step (a) into the fatty phase obtained in step (b) with stirring to create an emulsion. Step (a) of preparing the fatty phase can be carried out by techniques well known to those skilled in the art, possibly with stirring while hot (for example between 40 and 85° C., for example between 50 and 70 °C). The agitation can be carried out by any suitable means, for example by a mixer with blades, or by any other system making it possible to meet the requirements of the mixture. Step (b) of preparing the aqueous phase can be carried out by techniques well known to those skilled in the art, and can be done in particular with stirring, optionally hot (for example between 45 and 65° C., for example between 50 and 60°C). The agitation can be carried out by a paddle mixer or by any other system making it possible to meet the requirements of the mixture (deflocculator, propeller, etc.). The tank in which the aqueous phase is prepared can contain a turbine and/or a scraper. Step (b) can be carried out in parallel with step (a) or prior to the latter. Step (c) of incorporating the aqueous phase into the fatty phase with vigorous stirring to manufacture an emulsion can be carried out by techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Step (c) can be carried out by any suitable means for obtaining an emulsion, for example by means of an emulsifier, or a turbine of the rotor-stator type.

Uses

The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic, of the skin, the lips and/or the hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and/or the care of the skin.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can for example be used as a care product and for the face, the hands and/or the body with a consistency similar to that of flan, such as more or less unctuous creams.

The invention also relates to a method (or process) for formulating a composition with a changing texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular free of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulfated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulfate, and of aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol, said method comprising the addition to the emulsion (i) of at least one nonionic emulsifying system of HLB ≥ 9, preferably of HLB ≥ 10, based on glucoside d fatty alkyl and fatty alcohol, preferably in a fatty alkyl glucoside/fatty alcohol ratio by weight ranging from 10/90 to 30/70, preferably from 15/85 to 25/75, preferably from 18/82 to 22 /78, most preferably around 20/80;
(ii) at least one anionic emulsifier based on fatty alkyl phosphate, preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate;
(iii) at least one gelling agent of the carbomer type, such as homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene;
(iv) at least one feel powder, preferably chosen from natural or modified starches, preferably of natural origin, such as corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch, natural or modified, preferably natural, most preferably tapioca starch; And
(v) at least one esterified oil preferably of vegetable origin based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a caprylic/capric acid ester of saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol, components (i) to (v) preferably being as previously defined.

Advantageously, this method makes it possible in particular to preserve the sensoriality of the W/O emulsion, an evolving sensoriality: rich on application but which is quickly absorbed.

"Sensory" means the appearance, smell, color and texture perceived and/or felt by the user when looking at, touching or applying the product on skin, lips, nails, and/or hair, preferably skin.

By “retaining the sensoriality” is meant the fact of not significantly modifying the sensoriality of the composition for the user, or even of retaining an identical sensoriality.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic care process for caring for the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin a cosmetic composition with an evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention. For this application, it is possible, for example, to use the dosage forms described above. The application to the skin can therefore be carried out depending on the galenic form used.

The frequency of application can be any frequency desired by the user, for example daily application, twice daily, weekly and/or fortnightly. This may be, for example, an application once a week, twice a week, three times a week or more, once a day, twice a day or more.

Benefits

The present invention has many advantages, in particular to make skincare compositions accessible in the form of a W/O emulsion:

- enriched with active molecules;
- which remain homogeneous on storage at room temperature after a minimum period of one month;
- providing a double evolutionary property in texture and sensoriality; And
- free from the so-called "soaping" phenomenon.

The present invention also has the advantage of providing compositions with an evolving texture for the care of the skin in the form of a W/O emulsion, which are free of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, of sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate , and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol.

In the context of the present invention, unless otherwise stated, by silicone compound is meant any silicone compound known to those skilled in the art and/or capable of being used in a cosmetic, dermatological and/or pharmaceutical composition. It can be any inorganic compound formed of a silicon-oxygen chain (-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-) on which groups are fixed, on the silicon atoms. It can also be any compound comprising the following 4 types of siloxane units:

in which R can be an alkyl, for example a methyl, an aromatic radical, for example a phenyl group, an amine group, an aminoalkyl group, for example an aminodimethyl.

It may also be any silicone compound listed in the INCI dictionary (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) published by the PCPC (Personal Care Products Council). Advantageously, the cosmetic composition may be free of any silicone compound chosen from the group comprising dimethicones, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclosiloxane, trisiloxane, dimethicone copolymer, vinyl dimethicone copolymer, polyglycoethylene 12 dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.

EQUIVALENTS

The following representative examples are intended to illustrate the invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, nor should they be construed as such. Indeed, various modifications of the invention and many other embodiments thereof, in addition to those shown and described herein, will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the entire contents of this document, including the examples that follow.
The examples which follow contain additional important information, exemplification and teaching which may be adapted to the practice of this invention in its various embodiments and equivalents thereof.

The following examples are given as an indication and without any limiting nature of the invention.

Advantages other than those described in the present application may still appear to those skilled in the art on reading the examples below given by way of illustration.

Brief description of figures

represents a photograph under the microscope (A) of emulsion ^E 5, and (B) of emulsion E4, respectively of Example 2, after spreading on a slide.

represents a photograph under the microscope (A) of the emulsion ^E 5, and (B) of the emulsion E4, respectively of Example 2, after spreading on a slide and testing the addition of a drop of water under the microscope slide to see the direction of the emulsion. The pictures show:
(A) the water infiltrates carrying away the formula, which confirms that the external phase is water and therefore the composition an O/W emulsion;
(B) the water does not infiltrate the formula, which confirms that the external phase is oil and therefore the composition a W/O emulsion.

EXAMPLES

The person skilled in the art has a solid literature on the formulation of cosmetic compositions which he can take advantage of, in combination with the information contained in this document, for teaching on the methods of synthesis and the characterization of compositions in emulsion form. E/O, which can be exploited for the implementation of the present invention.

Those skilled in the art may refer to the teaching and to the specific examples provided in this document, relating to various embodiments of compositions in the form of a W/O emulsion, to implement the present invention in its full scope. .

In the examples, all percentages are given by weight, unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated. In the examples, the ingredients are indicated by their INCI name and their quantities are given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1: Example of cosmetic compositions with evolving texture in the form of a W/O emulsion according to the present invention

Procedure: the two phases were prepared separately and the aqueous phase was slowly introduced into the oily phase with hot stirring (approximately 70° C.), then the fillers were added.

Three W/O emulsions, (E1), (E2), (E3) are prepared, the mass compositions of which are indicated in Table 1 below, comprising

Ingredients Composition
(percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) E1 E2 E3 WATER qsp qsp qsp Emulsifying system (i) Nonionic emulsifier with HLB ≥ 10 based on C16 to C18 fatty alkyl glucoside and C16 to C18 fatty alcohol in a fatty alkyl glucoside/fatty alcohol mass ratio of 20/80 1 to 5 (ii) Anionic emulsifier based on a potassium salt of C14-C18 fatty alkyl phosphate 0.01 to 1 gelling agent (iii) Carbomer 0.05 to 1 touch powder (iv) Starch of natural origin 0.1 to 5 Esterified oil of plant origin (v) Caprylic/capric acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol 4 to 14 Assets) moisturizing agent
+
firming agent 3 to 10 Perfume(s) 0.5 to 1 Curator(s) 0.5 to 1

The emulsions thus prepared are then stored in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 20°C for 7 days. At the end of this 7-day period, the appearance of each emulsion prepared is observed and the viscosity of each emulsion is measured at 25° C. using a Brookfield RV6 viscometer at 12 rpm. The emulsions are then replaced and stored in the same insulated climatic chamber, regulated at a temperature of 20°C for up to 1 month. After a period of one month, each emulsion is removed from the climatic chamber to observe its appearance and measure its viscosity again at 25°C using a Brookfield RV6 viscometer at 12 rpm.

All the compositions are W/O emulsions (confirmed under the microscope), and have the desired evolving texture: the viscosity at 25°C between D7 and D30 increases by around 25,000 cP (25 Pa.s) on D7 to reach 55000 cP (55 Pa.s) at D30 (measured at 25° C., 12 rpm (“12 rpm” in English) with a Brookfield RV6 viscometer).

Furthermore, it can be seen under the microscope that after one month of storage at 20°C, no formation of water vesicles is observed in the oily phase, the emulsion remains perfectly homogeneous.

The conclusion is that the combination of components (i) to (v) in the table above provides stability, while allowing the evolution of the texture of the emulsion towards a flan-like consistency which develops over a period of one month.

The cream obtained once the maturation period of one month has passed, has been the subject of several tests on a panel of users, and these tests have shown:
- evolving sensoriality: rich on application but quickly absorbed;
- a very good appreciation of the texture.

Conclusion: The results show that the combination of components (i) to (v) in the table above makes it possible to obtain a W/O emulsion that is homogeneous over time, with an evolving texture, while retaining optimal sensory qualities for a user.

Example 2: Comparative example

A W/O emulsion (E4) prepared according to Example 1 is compared with the same emulsion (E5) in which the nonionic emulsifier of HLB ≥ 10 based on fatty alkyl glucoside and fatty alcohol has been substituted. with another nonionic emulsifying system of HLB ≥ 10, this time based on polyglyceryl-6 distearate. E4 emulsions contain the non-ionic emulsifier (ia), while E5 emulsions contain the non-ionic emulsifier (ib).

In the table below, the ranges of % indicated for each ingredient denote the ranges of % in which each ingredient can be used to prepare the emulsions according to the invention (E4), in comparison with the E5 emulsions not entering into the scope of the present invention. The principle of the table below is that E4 and E5 emulsions contain the same percentage of each type of ingredient, so that they can be directly compared. Thus, an E4 emulsion according to the invention containing x1% by weight of nonionic emulsifier (ia), x2% by weight of anionic emulsifier (ii), x3% by weight of carbomer (iii), x4% by weight of starch of natural origin (iv), x5% by weight of caprylic/capric acid ester of saturated fatty alcohol C12-18 (v), x6% by weight of active ingredients, x7% by weight of perfume and x8% by weight of preservatives, will be compared with an E5 emulsion containing x1% by weight of nonionic emulsifier (ib), x2% by weight of anionic emulsifier (ii), x3% by weight of carbomer (iii), x4% by weight of starch of natural origin (iv), x5% by weight of caprylic/capric acid ester of saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol (v), x6% by weight of active ingredients, x7 % by weight of perfume and x8% by weight of preservatives. Apart from the nonionic emulsifier (ia in E4 and ib in E5), all the other ingredients are identical and in the same quantities between an E4 emulsion and the comparative emulsion E5 (see Table 2).

Ingredients Composition
(percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) E4 E5 WATER qsp qsp Emulsifying system (ia) Nonionic emulsifier with HLB ≥ 10 based on C16 to C18 fatty alkyl glucoside and C16 to C18 fatty alcohol in a fatty alkyl glucoside/fatty alcohol mass ratio of 20/80 1 to 5 - (ib) Nonionic emulsifier of HLB ≥ 10 based on polyglyceryl-6 distearate - 1 to 5 (ii) Anionic emulsifier based on a potassium salt of C14-C18 fatty alkyl phosphate 0.01 to 1 0.01 to 1 gelling agent (iii) Carbomer 0.05 to 1 0.05 to 1 touch powder (iv) Starch of natural origin 0.1 to 5 0.1 to 5 Esterified oil of vegetable origin (v) Caprylic/capric acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol 4 to 14 4 to 14 Assets) moisturizing agent
+
firming agent 3 to 10 3 to 10 Perfume(s) 0.5 to 1 0.5 to 1 Curator(s) 0.5 to 1 0.5 to 1

Although the combination of nonionic emulsifier + anionic emulsifier + carbomer + starch + caprylic acid ester / capric acid of saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol of the E5 emulsion makes it possible to eliminate sodium lauryl sulphate, cyclomethicone and phenoxyethanol , the emulsion obtained is O/W oriented (test of adding a drop of water under the microscope slide to see the direction of the emulsion – cf. FIG. 2A).

The E4 emulsion, on the other hand, is a W/O emulsion, which eliminates the soaping phenomenon (FIG. 2B). E4 also makes it possible to eliminate sodium lauryl sulphate, cyclomethicone and phenoxyethanol, like emulsions E1 to E3 of Example 1.

REFERENCES
1. EW Flick “Cosmetic additives-an industrial guide”, William Andrew Publishing/Noyes, 1991.
2. WO 94/01073.
3. EP 0 958 856.

Claims (14)

Cosmetic composition with evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(i) at least one nonionic emulsifying system of HLB ≥ 9, preferably of HLB ≥ 10, based on fatty alkyl glucoside and fatty alcohol, preferably in a fatty alkyl glucoside/fatty alcohol mass ratio ranging from 10/90 to 30/70, preferably from 15/85 to 25/75, preferably from 18/82 to 22/78, most preferably around 20/80;
(ii) at least one anionic fatty alkyl phosphate emulsifier, preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate;
(iii) at least one carbomer type gelling agent;
(iv) at least one feel powder, preferably chosen from natural or modified starches, preferably of natural origin; And
(v) at least one esterified oil preferably of vegetable origin based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a caprylic/capric acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol;
said composition being free of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic emulsifier system has an HLB of 10. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the nonionic emulsifying system comprises a C12 to C22, preferably C16 to C18, fatty alkyl glucoside and a C12 to C22, preferably C16 to C18 fatty alcohol. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the glucoside is D-glucopyranoside. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the nonionic emulsifier system comprises a mixture of cetearyl D-glucopyranoside and cetearyl alcohol. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the nonionic emulsifying system is present at a rate of 1 to 5% by weight, preferably 2.0 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 2.2 to 2.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the anionic emulsifier comprises an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl C12 to C22, preferably C13 to C20, preferably C14 to C18, plus preferably an alkali metal salt of cetyl phosphate, even more preferably a potassium salt of cetyl phosphate. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the anionic emulsifier is present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight, preferably 0, 1 to 0.4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, in which the gelling agent comprises at least one carbomer compound chosen from homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an propylene allyl ether. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, in which the carbomer gelling agent is present in a proportion of 0.05 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.20 to 0.40% by weight, preferably 0.28 to 0.35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the feel powder is chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, wheat, sorghum starch, pea starch, natural or modified, preferably natural. Composition according to Claim 11, in which the feel powder is tapioca starch, natural or modified, preferably natural. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, in which the feel powder is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Use of association
(i) at least one nonionic emulsifying system of HLB ≥ 9, preferably of HLB ≥ 10, based on fatty alkyl glucoside and fatty alcohol, preferably in a fatty alkyl glucoside/fatty alcohol ranging from 10/90 to 30/70, preferably from 15/85 to 25/75, preferably from 18/82 to 22/78, most preferably around 20/80;
(ii) at least one anionic emulsifier based on fatty alkyl phosphate, preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate;
(iii) at least one gelling agent of the carbomer type, such as homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene;
(iv) at least one feel powder, preferably chosen from natural or modified starches, preferably of natural origin, such as corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch, natural or modified, preferably natural, most preferably tapioca starch; And
(v) at least one esterified oil preferably of vegetable origin based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a caprylic/capric acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol;
for the formulation of a composition with evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.