FR3113243A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR SILICONE EMULSION, A CATIONIC/AMPHOTERIC POLYMER AND AN ALKYL SILICONE - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising a particular silicone emulsion, a cationic/amphoteric polymer and an alkyl silicone The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which comprises a silicone emulsion of specific oil-in-water type, one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers and one or more alkyl (C8 to C32) dimethicones. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of the composition according to the invention. Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably the hair. Figure for abstract: None

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SPECIFIC SILICONE EMULSION, A CATIONIC/AMPHOTERIC POLYMER AND AN ALKYL SILICONE

The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which comprises a specific oil-in-water type silicone emulsion, one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers and one or more (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) alkyl dimethicones.

The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of the composition according to the invention.

Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably the hair.

It is common practice to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos and shower gels, essentially based on surfactants, to wash keratinous materials, in particular the hair and the skin. These compositions are applied to keratinous materials, which are preferably wet, and the foam generated by massage or rubbing with the hands or a washcloth makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to eliminate the various types of dirt initially present on hair or skin.

These compositions contain substantial contents of “detergent” surfactants which, in order to be able to formulate cosmetic compositions with good washing power, must in particular give them good foaming power.

The surfactants which are useful for this purpose are generally of the anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type, and in particular of the anionic type.

These compositions generally have a good cleansing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain rather poor, in particular because the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleansing treatment can, in the long term, lead to damage more or less pronounced caused to the hair fibres, this damage being associated in particular with the progressive elimination of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of this fibre.

Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly those which are to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair which has been damaged or weakened, in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or hair treatments such as perms, dyeing or bleaching), it is now known to introduce additional cosmetic agents known as conditioners into these compositions. These conditioners are mainly intended to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or various attacks to which the hair fibers are subjected more or less repeatedly. They can, of course, also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.

The most common conditioners used in shampoos to date include cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives, which can give wet or dry washed hair ease of detangling, softness and smoothness. which are significantly better than those obtainable with corresponding cleaning compositions from which they are absent.

In particular, it is known to use a mixture of silicone and cationic polymer. However, the compositions containing them still have numerous disadvantages, such as the fact of leading to an insufficient deposit of silicones on the hair and therefore having a strong impact on their cosmetic properties.

Thus, there is a real need to provide compositions, such as compositions for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, which make it possible to overcome the drawbacks described above, i.e. i.e. which effectively remove excess dirt and sebum and enhance the cosmetic properties of said fibers, such as softness, smoothness, manageability and detangling. These cosmetic properties can also be long lasting.

In particular, the composition should give a satisfactory silicone deposit on the keratin fibers and should improve the detangling of the hair.

These objects are achieved with the present invention, a subject of which is a composition comprising:

a) an oil-in-water emulsion having a D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:

- a mixture of silicones comprising (i) a dialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25° C. and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa. s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,

- an emulsifier blend comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier blend has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and

- some water ;

b) one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s)

c) one or more (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) alkyl dimethicones.

This composition, when applied to keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair and more particularly sensitized hair, leads to an improvement in the condition and quality of the hair, in terms of feel hair (eg, smooth feel, soft feel, conditioned feel) and hair manageability (eg, little or no frizz, combability/shaping, combing, detangling, desirable volume).

In addition, it has been noted that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to significantly improve the deposition of silicone on the keratin fibers.

Even more surprisingly, it was discovered that the silicone deposit on the hair is significantly higher with the composition according to the invention in comparison with a similar composition which does not comprise one or more alkyls (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) dimethicones.

The composition according to the invention has good detergent power.

It has also been noted that hair treated with the composition according to the invention is particularly clean and light.

The observed properties of the composition according to the invention are particularly long-lasting.

The present invention also relates to a process for treating, in particular for washing and/or conditioning, keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of this composition.

Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably the hair.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:

- the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be replaced by the latter;

- the term “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be replaced by the latter, and implies that the limits are included;

- according to the present application, the expression "keratin fibers" preferably denotes human keratin fibers, and more preferably the hair.

I' oil in water emulsion

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an oil-in-water (or silicone-in-water) emulsion having a D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and containing:

- a mixture of silicones comprising (i) a dialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25° C. and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa. s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,

- a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifier(s), in which the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of 10 to 16; And

- some water.

In the oil-in-water emulsion, or silicone-in-water emulsion, one liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is dispersed in the other liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the mixture of silicones, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase.

• (i) dialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl

The silicone mixture comprises a trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane, which is preferably of formula (IX):

R′ ₃ SiO(R′ ₂ SiO) _p SiR′ ₃ (IX),

in which :

- the R', identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl, And

- p is an integer from 500 to 2000, preferably from 1000 to 2000.

The dialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl (or blocked at the end or position α, ω) according to the invention have a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s (100,000 excluded ) at 25°C, preferably a viscosity of 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, more preferably a viscosity of 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

The dialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl according to the invention are preferably linear but additionally contain R′ ₂ SiO _2/2 units (D units) in formula (IX), RSiO _3/2 units (T units) and/or SiO _4/2 units (Q units), in which the R', identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the R′, which are identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2- n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and the isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, the nonyl radicals, such as the n-nonyl radicals, the decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, the dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and allyl radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radical; radicals, alkaryl; such as o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and b-phenylethyl radical. The methyl radical is most preferred.

Preferably, the dialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl are PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones) terminated by trimethylsilyl.

(ii) amino silicones

The mixture of silicones comprises an amino silicone, which is preferably of formula (X):

XR ₂ Si(OSiAR) _n (OSiR ₂ ) _m OSiR ₂ X (X),

in which :

- the Rs, which are identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl;

- the Xs, which are identical or different, are R or a hydroxyl (OH) or C ₁ to C ₆ alkoxy group; preferably X is R, i.e. a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl;

- A is an amino radical of formula -R ¹ -[NR ² -R ³ -] _x NR ² ₂ , or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R ¹ is a C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene radical, of preferably a radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, the R ² s, which are identical or different, are a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl radical , preferably a hydrogen atom, R ³ is a C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ -, and x is 0 or 1;

And

- m + n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600.

Preferably, A is an amino radical of formula -R ¹ -[NR ² -R ³ -] _x NR ² ₂ , or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R ¹ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, R ² are hydrogen atoms, R ³ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ -, and x is 1.

Preferably, the Rs, which are identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n -butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and allyl radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radicals; alkaryl radicals, such as o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals, such as the benzyl radical and the a- and b-phenylethyl radical. The methyl radical is most preferred.

The amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25° C., preferably of 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.

The amino silicones according to the invention have an amine value of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably of 3.5 to 8 mg.

The mole percent of amine functionality is preferably in the range of about 0.3 to about 8%.

Examples of amino silicones useful in the silicone blend of the invention include a trialkylsilyl terminated amino silicone.

Most preferably, the amino silicones are trimethylsilyl-terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane, most preferably trimethylsilyl-terminated - aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane - dimethylsiloxane copolymers. The amino radical A can be partially or totally protonated by adding acids to the amino silicone, the salt forms of the amino radical being obtained. Examples of acids are carboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid. The acids are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 2.0 mol per 1 mol of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (X).

The silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in an amount of 70 to 90% by weight, preferably from 75 to 85% by weight, and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the mixture of silicones.

• blend of emulsifiers

The oil-in-water emulsion further comprises an emulsifier mixture which includes one or more non-ionic emulsifiers. It could optionally include one or more cationic surfactants.

The emulsifier blend has an HLB value of 10 to 16.

The nonionic emulsifiers can be chosen from nonionic surfactants as described below.

Mention may be made of alcohols, α-diols and alkylphenols (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ), these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups optionally ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups optionally ranging from 2 to 30; or as a variant, these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula:

R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t -(G) _v ,

in which :

- R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

- R ₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, optionally ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being in particular between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C ₈ /C ₁₆ 1,4-alkyl(poly)glycosides, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are very particularly preferred.

Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or otherwise the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

The nonionic emulsifiers could preferably be chosen from ethoxylated aliphatic alcohols, polyoxyethylenated surfactants, carboxylic esters, polyethylene glycol esters, sorbitol esters and their ethoxylated derivatives, glycol esters of fatty acids, carboxylic amides, monoalkanolamine condensates, amides polyoxyethylene fatty acids.

Preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers are chosen from:

(i) polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ethers, in particular (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula:

R ₃ -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _cOH ,

with :

- R ₃ representing a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₄₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C ₈ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and

- c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 150 and more particularly between 4 and 50, most preferably between 8 and 20.

The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO);

(ii) polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) phenyl ethers,

(iii) polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) sorbitan fatty acid esters, in particular polyethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably of 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylene sorbitan (C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ ) fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; And

(iv) polyoxyethylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated (C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ ) fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers could be chosen from an alkyl ether of polyalkylene glycol and alkyl esters of polyalkylene glycol; preferably polyethylene glycol (PEG).

Some useful emulsifiers are:

- polyethylene glycol octyl ether; polyethylene glycol lauryl ether; polyethylene glycol tridecyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearyl ether; among these, mention may be made more particularly of trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6.

- polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether;

- polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monostearate, polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monooleate.

- polyethylene glycol stearate, and in particular PEG-100 stearate.

Most preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers are selected from steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10 and mixtures thereof; preferably all of these emulsifiers are present in the emulsifier mixture.

The mixture of emulsifiers could comprise one or more cationic emulsifiers which could be chosen from tetraalkylammonium halides, tetraarylammonium halides, tetraalkylarylammonium halides, and their salts; quaternary ammonium compounds including salts; preferably, the cationic emulsifiers could be chosen from cetrimonium halides or behentrimonium halides, such as chloride.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the emulsifier mixture in a total amount of 5 to 15 wt%, preferably 8 to 15 wt%, most preferably 10 to 12 wt%. , based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of nonionic emulsifiers in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises nonionic emulsifiers in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight. weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises cationic emulsifiers, when present, in a total amount of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of silicones in a total amount of 40-60% by weight, more preferably 45-55% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) in a total amount of 35 to 45% by weight, more preferably 38 to 42% by weight, based on to the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion comprises water preferably in an amount of 25 to 50 wt%, more preferably 30 to 45 wt%, most preferably 35 to 42 wt%. , based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion could additionally comprise a biocide, such as phenoxyethanol, which could be present in the emulsion in an amount of 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

A process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises:

- a step of mixing one or more dialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl with a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and one or more amino silicones with a viscosity of 1,000 to 15 000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, at a temperature of 15°C to 40°C, preferably at 25°C, to obtain a mixed silicone fluid, then

- a step of adding an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more nonionic emulsifier(s), the emulsifier mixture having an HLB value of 10 to 16, to the mixed silicone fluid to obtain a mixture silicone-emulsifier, then

- a step of homogenizing the silicone-emulsifier mixture followed by

- a step of adding, preferably by step, water, preferably demineralised water, to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm.

The process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion could also comprise an additional step of adding a biocide. The biocide could be added to preserve the emulsion against microbial contamination. The biocide could be added in order to preserve the emulsion from microbial contamination and to obtain said emulsion. The amount of biocide depends on the type of biocide and as recommended by the manufacturer.

The preparation of the mixture of emulsifiers could be carried out by mixing one or more non-ionic emulsifiers.

The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion after neutralization (i.e. after addition of the biocide) is preferably 4 to 6.

The oil-in-water emulsion has a D50 particle size of less than 350 nm, preferably 100 to 300 nm, more preferably 150 to 250 nm, even more preferably 150 to 225 nm, and preferably most preferably 160 to 200 nm. It corresponds to the mean hydrodynamic particle diameter. The D50 particle size is expressed in volume. The D50 particle size could be measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, which is based on the Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS) method.

Particle size measurement

The particle size of the emulsion could be measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, Nano-ZS model which is based on the process of Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS). The D50 value of the particle size (mean hydrodynamic particle diameter) is measured, the evaluation algorithm being “cumulant analysis”.

For example, take 0.5 g of the emulsion sample in a 250 mL beaker, pour 100 mL of deionized water into it and mix them well to obtain the sample test solution. The sample test solution is poured into the cuvette cell and placed in the slot of the instrument to measure the particle size of the emulsion. D50 is defined as the value of the 50% particle diameter in the cumulative distribution. For example, if D50 = 170nm, then 50% of the particles in the sample are larger than 170nm, and 50% smaller than 170nm or approximately 50% by volume of all droplets in said emulsion are 170nm .

Viscosity measurement

The viscosity, in particular of the silicones or of the emulsion, is measured at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure .

For viscosities between 1,000 to 40,000 mPa.s at 25°C: the viscosity could be measured with an Anton Paar rheometer; MCR101 model, single-groove cylinder geometry: CC27 spindle and shear rate of 1 s ^-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.

For viscosities between 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C: the viscosity could be measured with an Anton Paar rheometer; model MCR101, 25-6 cone (plane-cone geometry: 25 mm diameter/6° cone); the "Zero groove" adjustment being carried out and with a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.

Three measurements are made for each sample and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. Products in the MCR Rheometer range operate in accordance with USP (US Pharmacopeia convention) 912 – Rotational Rheometer methods.

Amine number measurement

The amine number is determined by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Make: Veego; Model: VPT-MG]. Take 0.6 g of sample in a 500 mL beaker and add a 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture and shake to mix the sample completely; then the sample solution is titrated with a 0.1(N) HCl solution. A determination of the blank value is also carried out with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture. The calculation of the amine index is carried out by the aforementioned potentiometer.

The amine index is calculated according to the formula:

56.11 × (V - V Blank) × N/W mg KOH/g sample,

in which

V = Volume of HCl required in mL, VBlank = Volume of HCl for blank value (without sample) with 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture in mL; N = Normality of HCl, i.e. 0.1 N, W = weight of the sample taken in grams.

HLB value

The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art, and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant or emulsifier. In the present invention, HLB values refer to values at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

The HLB can be measured by experimental determination or can be calculated.

A calculation of the HLB value of nonionic surfactants is made according to the equation: HLB = (E + P)/5, where E is the weight percentage of the oxyethylene content and P is the weight percentage of the alcohol content polyhydric, described in the publication Griffin, J. Soc. cosm. Chem. 1954 (vol.5, n° 4), pp.249 to 256.

It can also be determined experimentally according to the book by F. Puisieux and M. Seiller, entitled “Galenica 5: Dispersed systems – Volume I – Surface agents and emulsions – Chapter IV – Notions of HLB and critical HLB, pp. 153 to 194 paragraph 1.1.2. Determination of HLB experimentally, pp. 164 to 180”.

The calculated HLB is the preferred HLB values that should be considered.

Said calculated HLB could be defined as follows:

"Calculated HLB = 20 × molar mass of hydrophilic part/total molar mass".

For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units condensed on the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the “Griffin HLB” as defined above.

For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is naturally defined as being beyond the carbonyl group, starting from the fatty chain(s).

For ionic surfactants/emulsifiers, the HLB value of an individual surfactant/emulsifier can be calculated by applying Davies' formula as described in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent”, Gas/Liquid and Liquid/Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress of Surface Activity): 426 to 438.

According to the formula, the HLB is derived by summing the hydrophilic/hydrophobic contribution allowed by the structural components of the emulsifier: HLB = (number of hydrophilic groups) – n(number of groups per CH ₂ group) + 7.

Approximate HLB values for some cationic emulsifiers are given in Table IV, in "Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics", GODFREY, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pp17-27.

When two emulsifiers A and B of known HLB are mixed for use, the HLB _Mix is said to be the required HLB for the mixture. This is expressed by the equation (W _A HLB _A + W _B HLB _B )/(W _A + W _B ) = HLB _Mix , where W _A = the quantity (weight) of the first emulsifier (A) used, and W _B = the amount (weight) of the second emulsifier (B); HLB _A , HLB _B = assigned HLB values for emulsifiers A and B; HLB _Mix = the HLB of the mixture.

Said oil-in-water emulsion is for example described in WO 2017/108824.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably comprises the oil-in-water emulsion a) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 12% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10%, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the dialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25° C. in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.5% to 4% by weight, more preferably 1 to 3% by weight, based on weight composition total.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25° C. and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram. of amino silicone, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The p polymer(s) ) cationic (s) And/ Or amphoteric (s)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic or amphoteric polymer(s) b).

According to the present invention, by “cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s)”, is meant one or more cationic polymer(s), one or more amphoteric polymers or the mixture of one or several cationic polymer(s), and one or more amphoteric polymers.

According to the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into groups. anionic. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main chain of the polymer or be carried by a side substituent which is directly linked to it.

These polymers are non-silicone, ie they do not contain any silicon (Si) atoms.

Preferably, the cationic charge density of the polymers b) can be less than or equal to 6 meq/g, more preferably less than or equal to 5 meq/g, and better still less than or equal to 4 meq/g. This cationic charge density is advantageously from 0.5 to 6 meq/g, more preferably from 1 to 5 meq/g, and even more preferably from 1.5 to 4 meq/g.

Among the cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

- cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulose polymers and galactomannan gums.

The expression “cationic polysaccharide” means any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.

Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may more particularly be made of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and gums of cationic galactomannan.

Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in French patent 1,492,597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER "JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the Dow Chemical Company. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as hydroxyethylcellulose quaternary ammoniums that have been reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. Polyquaternium-10 is, for example, one of these polymers.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.

Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably C ₁ to C ₆ trialkylammonium groups. Use may be made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (eg chloride). Such products are notably sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by Rhodia.

Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and mixtures thereof; and more preferably polyquaternium-10.

- Of polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the products of oxidation and/or quaternization of these polymers;

- water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be cross-linked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;

- derivatives of polyamino amides resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents;

- polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1;

- alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, such as homopolymers or copolymers containing, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (XXX) or (XXXI):

(XXX)

(XXXI)

in which :

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

- R ₁₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of one another, denote a C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl group, a hydroxyl alkyl group (C ₁ to C ₅ ), a C ₁ to C ₄ amidoalkyl group; or, as a variant, R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ can denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of one another, preferably denote a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group; And

- Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate or phosphate;

- diquaternary ammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

(XXXII)

in which :

- R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals (C ₁ to C ₁₂ ),

or else R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom,

or else R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ represent a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or a –CO-OR ₁₇ -D group or a –CO -NH-R ₁₇ -D in which R ₁₇ is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more atoms oxygen or sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

- X ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

knowing that A1, R ₁₃ and R ₁₅ can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

moreover, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group (CH ₂ ) _n -CO-D-OC-(CH ₂ ) _p - in which n and p, which may be identical or different, denote an integer from 2 to 20, and in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula –OZO-, in which Z denotes a radical based on a linear or branched hydrocarbon, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x - CH ₂ -CH ₂ - and -[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O] _y -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined degree of polymerization and single or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

b) a secondary bis-diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a primary bis-diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or otherwise the divalent radical -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ - CH ₂ -;

d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;

Preferably, X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molecular mass (Mn) generally between 1,000 and 100,000.

- Of polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XXXIV):

(XXXIV)

in which :

- R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p OH, in which p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

- r and s, which can be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

- q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

- X ^- denotes an anion such as a halide,

- A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -.

- quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole;

- polyamines such as Polyquart ^® H sold by Cognis, referred to as Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary;

- polymers comprising in their structure:

(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

(b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide;

- other additional cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives;

- and one of their mixtures.

Preferably, the cationic and/or amphoteric polymers b) are chosen from polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized acrylamide and/or methacrylamide unit(s). These polymers are non-silicone, ie they do not contain any silicon (Si) atoms.

The polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized methacrylamide unit(s) can be cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s).

The polymer(s) comprising one or more cationic and/or quaternized (meth)acrylamide unit(s) may be chosen from cationic polymers; amphoteric polymers and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, they are chosen from cationic polymers.

The cationic polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide unit(s) which can be used in the present invention are more preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one of the units of following formulas:

(II) (III)

in which :

- the R ₁ s, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical;

- the R's, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkyl radical, preferably a linear C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals;

- R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl radical;

- R ₈ and R ₉ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl radical, preferably a methyl or ethyl; And

- Y ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or from a halide, preferably a bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, methosulphate, sulphate or phosphate anion.

More particularly, the polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide unit(s) are chosen from copolymers comprising at least one unit of formula (II) as defined above, and more comprising at least one unit of formula (II) in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear alkyl group containing 3 carbon atoms and R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ represent a methyl.

The cationic polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide unit(s) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the families of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acids acrylics or methacrylics or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters, preferably chosen from the families of acrylamides and methacrylamides, and more preferably acrylamide or methacrylamide.

Among these homo- or co-polymers, mention may be made of:

- halide homopolymers, preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, such as the product N-DURHANCE A-1000 from ASHLAND,

- copolymers of halides, preferably chloride, of acrylamidopropyltrimonium and of acrylamide, such as the product sold under the name Salcare® SC 60 by the company BASF or sold under the name N-Hance SP 100 or N-Durhance AA2000 by the company Ashland, or the product sold under the name N-Hance 4572 (example conditioning polymer Aqualon aqua 4572) by the company Ashland, that is to say a mixture of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and copolymer of acrylamidepropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide,

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,

- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company ISP.

More preferably, the composition comprises:

1. one or more cationic polymer(s) chosen from polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide unit(s) and/or methacrylamide unit(s), preferably chosen ) from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one of the units of formulas (II) or (III) above,

and (ii) one or more polysaccharide(s), preferably one or more galactomannans, more preferably one or more guar gum(s).

The expression “amphoteric polymer” means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and comprising anionic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.

The amphoteric polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide unit(s) and/or methacrylamide unit(s) which can be used in the present invention are preferably chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:

(i) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamide type,

(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and

(iii) one or more units derived from an acid monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.

Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (VI) below:

(VI)

in which :

- R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical; And

- R ₂ denotes an NR ₃ R ₄ radical, in which R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkyl radical, optionally substituted by a or more hydroxyl radicals, preferably R ₂ denotes an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH ₂ OH radical.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single unit of formula (VI).

The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (VI) in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom and R ₂ is an amino radical (NH ₂ ) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.

Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units of structure (VII) below:

(VII)

in which :

- R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical;

- R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl radical;

- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4; And

- Y ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably a bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, methosulphate, sulphate or phosphate anion.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single unit of formula (VII).

Among these units derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type of formula (VII), those which are preferred are those derived from the monomer methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for which R ₁ denotes a methyl radical, n is equal to 3, R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ denote a methyl radical, and Y ^- denotes a chloride anion.

Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (VIII):

(VIII)

in which :

- R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical; And

- R ₂ denotes a hydroxyl radical or an NR ₃ R ₄ radical, in which R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkyl radical, optionally substituted by a sulphonic group (-SO ₃ H), preferably R ₂ denotes an –NH-C(CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -SO ₃ H radical.

The preferred units of formula (VIII) correspond to the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (VIII) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom and R ₂ denotes a hydroxyl radical.

The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be unneutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or inorganic base.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single unit of formula (VIII).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprises (comprises) at least 30% by mol of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type ( i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamide type.

The content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) can advantageously be from 10% by mol to 60% by mol and preferentially from 20% by mol to 55% by mol.

The content of units derived from an acid monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) can advantageously be from 1% by mol to 20% by mol and preferentially from 5% by mol to 15% by mol.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:

- from 30% by mol to 70% by mol and more preferably from 40% by mol to 60% by mol of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),

- from 10% by mol to 60% by mol and preferably from 20% by mol to 55% by mol of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and

- from 1% by mol to 20% by mol and preferably from 5% by mol to 15% by mol of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).

The amphoteric polymers of this type can also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamide type, of the (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of the (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.

However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric polymers consist only of units derived from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of acid type. (meth)acrylic.

As examples of such amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred, mention may be made of acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are in particular sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.

Another preferred type of amphoteric polymer is the polymer comprising a repetition of:

(i) one or more non-ionic units derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylate type,

(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and

1. one or more units derived from an acid monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises as polymers b) one or more so-called amphoteric polymers and/or one or more cationic polysaccharides, preferably chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof, plus preferably chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and mixtures thereof.

The (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer and the (meth)acrylic acid type acid monomer (monomers (ii) and (iii) respectively) are as described above.

The nonionic monomers (i) of (meth)acrylate type are preferably chosen from C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl acrylates and methacrylates. A preferred monomer is methyl acrylate.

As particularly preferred examples of such amphoteric polymers, mention may be made of the terpolymers of acrylic acid/methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/methyl acrylates. Such polymers are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary CTFA under the name polyquaternium 47. Corresponding products are notably sold under the names Merquat 2001 and Merquat 2001N by the company Nalco.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polymers b) chosen from:

• cationic polysaccharides, more preferably chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and mixtures thereof; and even more preferably polyquarternum-10;
• polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide unit(s); more preferably from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one of the units of the following formulas:

(II) (III)

in which :

- the R ₁ s, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical;

- the R's, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkyl radical, preferably a linear C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals;

- R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl radical;

- R ₈ and R ₉ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl radical, preferably a methyl or ethyl; And

- Y ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or from a halide, preferably a bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, methosulphate, sulphate or phosphate anion;

• and their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition comprises as polymer(s) b), one or more polymers chosen from:

1. cationic polymers chosen from:

• empty dot) (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl)tri(C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl)ammonium halide/(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride copolymers / (meth)acrylamide, and more preferably copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide,
• (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl)tri(C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl)ammonium halide/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably (meth)acrylic acid halide terpolymers, preferably ( meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid, more preferably acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers,

• (meth)acrylamido(C 1 -C 6 alkyl)tri( _{C 1} -C ₄ alkyl)ammonium halide/(C _{1 -C 6} alkyl)/(meth)acid halide terpolymers acrylic, preferably the terpolymers of (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/(meth)acrylate (C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl)/(meth)acrylic acid; more preferably acrylic acid/methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/methyl acrylates terpolymers,

and mixtures thereof; And

1. cationic polysaccharides, preferably one or more galactomannans;
2. and their mixtures.

More preferably, the composition comprises as polymer(s) one or more polymers chosen from:

- cationic polymers chosen from:

• copolymers of (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl)tri(C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl)ammonium halide/(meth)acrylamide, preferably copolymers of (meth)acrylamidepropyltrimonium chloride/(meth )acrylamide, and most preferably copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide, and

- cationic guar gums;

- and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises, as polymers b), a mixture of:

- one or more cationic polysaccharides, preferably chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and mixtures thereof, and

- one or more polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized acrylamide and/or methacrylamide unit(s), preferably as described above.

Preferably, the total amount of cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s) b) present in the composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04 to 1% by weight, and even better still from 0.05 to 0, 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when the composition comprises one or more polymers b) comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide unit(s), their total amount in the composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0, 01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04 to 1% by weight, and even better still from 0.05 to 0, 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when the composition comprises one or more polymers b) chosen from (meth)acrylamido(C-C alkyl) halide copolymers₁to C₆)tri(C-alkyl₁to C₄) ammonium / (meth) acrylamide, their total amount in the composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04 to 1% by weight, and even better still from 0.05 to 0, 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when the composition comprises one or more cationic polysaccharides, their total amount in the composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04 to 1% by weight, and even better still from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when the composition comprises one or more cationic guars, their total amount in the composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04 to 1% by weight, and even better still from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Alkyls (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) dimethicones

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkyl (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) dimethicones.

The (C ₈ to C ₃₂ )alkyl dimethicones which can be used according to the invention are different from the silicones (i) and (ii) used in the oil-in-water emulsion a).

Advantageously, the (C ₈ to C ₃₂ )alkyldimethicones according to the invention correspond to the following general formula:

in which,

- R represents a C ₈ to C ₃₂ alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably linear (and saturated);

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 50, more preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, more preferably from 1 to 50, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 5.

Preferably, the n/m ratio is preferably 0.1 to 2, more preferably 0.5 to 1.5.

Preferably, the (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) alkyl dimethicone(s) c) is (are) chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₆ ) alkyl dimethicones; more preferably from (C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ )alkyldimethicones; even more preferably from (C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ )alkyl dimethicones; best among lauryl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises cetyl dimethicone as (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) alkyl dimethicone c).

Preferably, the amount of (C ₈ to C ₃₂ )alkyl dimethicone(s) c) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight; preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight; more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight; and better still from 0.5 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the amount of (C ₈ to C ₂₆ )alkyl dimethicone(s) c) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight; preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight; more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight; and better still from 0.5 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the quantity of (C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ )alkyl dimethicone(s) c) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight; preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight; more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight; and better still from 0.5 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the amount of (C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ )alkyl dimethicone(s) c) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight; preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight; more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight; and better still from 0.5 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the amount of (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) alkyl dimethicone(s) c) chosen from lauryl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight ; preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight; more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight; and better still from 0.5 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the amount of cetyl dimethicone ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight; preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight; more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight; and better still from 0.5 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the ratio by weight of the total quantity of (C ₈ to C ₃₂ )alkyl dimethicone(s) c) relative to the total weight of the composition on the one hand, to the total quantity of cationic polymers and/or amphoteric b) relative to the total weight of the composition on the other hand, ranges from 0.001 to 300, preferably from 0.1 to 200; more preferably from 1 to 100; even more preferably from 5 to 50, and better still from 10 to 50.

Preferably, the ratio by weight of the total quantity of (C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl dimethicone(s) c) relative to the total weight of the composition on the one hand, to the total quantity of the polymer(s) ( s) comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide unit(s), relative to the total weight of the composition on the other hand, ranges from 0.001 to 300, preferably from 0.1 to 200; more preferably from 1 to 100; even more preferably from 5 to 50, and even better from 10 to 50.

Preferably, the ratio by weight of the total amount of cetyl dimethicone relative to the total weight of the composition on the one hand, to the total amount of halide copolymers of (meth)acrylamido (C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl)tri (C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl)ammonium/(meth)acrylamide relative to the total weight of the composition, on the other hand, ranges from 0.001 to 300, preferably from 0.1 to 200; more preferably from 1 to 100; even more preferably from 5 to 50, and better still from 10 to 50.

Anionic surfactants

Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

The expression “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

In the present description, a species is qualified as “anionic” when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized in the form of negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and comprising no cationic charge.

The anionic surfactants which can be used in the invention are different from the polymers b) as described above.

The anionic surfactants can be sulphate, sulphonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. It goes without saying that a mixture of these surfactants can be used.

It is understood in this description that:

- carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and may also optionally comprise one or more sulphate and/or sulphonate functions;

- the sulphonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulphonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulphate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate function; And

- the sulphate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulphate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulphonate function.

The sulphate anionic surfactants which can be used comprise at least one sulphate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; and also the salts of these compounds.

The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 28, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designates a phenyl or benzyl group.

These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts which may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from anionic surfactants of the alkyl(ether) sulfate type, and better still from C ₁₂ to C ₁₄ alkyl salts (ether) sulfate, and in particular the salts of lauryl ether sulfate.

Suitable anionic surfactants in the composition of the present invention can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants, the one or more anionic surfactants are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% , more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferably is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better still from 5% to 22% by weight, better still from 8 to 20% by weight, still better still from 10 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants of the alkyl ether sulphate type, the one or more surfactants of the alkyl ether sulphate type are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 30%, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferably is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better still from 5% to 22% by weight, even better still from 8 to 20% by weight, better still from 10 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more C ₁₂ to C ₁₄ alkyl ether sulfate salts, the one or more C ₁₂ to C ₁₄ alkyl ether sulfate salts are present in a total amount ranging from from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30%, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferably is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better still from 5% to 22% by weight, more preferably 8 to 20% by weight, more preferably 10 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more lauryl ether sulfate salts, the one or more lauryl ether sulfate salts are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0 5% to 30%, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferably is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better still from 5% to 22% by weight, even better still from 8 to 20% by weight , better still from 10 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants amphoteric or zwitterionic

Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants which can be used in the present invention are different from the polymers b) as described previously.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) which may (may) be used in the present invention may (may) in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, wherein the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₀ alkyl) betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C _{8 to C 20} alkyl) C ₂₀ )amido(C ₂ to C ₈ alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamido-propyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight , more preferably 0.1% to 20%, even more preferably 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 8 % by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, as described above.

More preferably according to this embodiment, the composition comprises:

- one or more surfactants of the alkyl (ether) sulphate type, in particular C ₁₂ to C ₁₄ alkyl ether sulphate salts such as lauryl ether sulphate salts, and

- one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₀ alkyl) betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂ to C ₈ alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamido-propylbetaine , and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the total amount of surfactants can range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a hair composition and most preferably a hair composition for cleaning and/or caring for the hair.

Optionally, the cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain various additives conventionally used in hair compositions.

As additives which can be used in accordance with the invention, mention can be made of anionic or nonionic polymers, additional amphoteric polymers different from the polymers b) described above, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrhea agents, agents to prevent hair loss and/or promote hair regrowth, fatty substances, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, direct dyes, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric thickeners , opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes and preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

The above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01% and 40% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will take care to select this (these) optional additive(s) so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not , or are not substantially, adversely affected by the contemplated addition(s).

The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, comprising a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition as described above.

Optionally, after the application step, the composition according to the invention is removed after an optional leave-in time.

The leave-in time of the keratin fiber composition can range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, more preferably 5 seconds to 10 minutes, and more preferably 10 seconds to 5 minutes.

Preferably, the keratin fibers are not rinsed out after application of the keratin fibers of the composition according to the invention, more preferably within 8 hours after application.

The compositions can be applied to wet or dry keratin fibers; preferably on wet keratin fibres.

The composition could be a shampoo, conditioner, mask, preferably a rinse-out shampoo or rinse-out conditioner. for hair.

Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as described above for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably the hair.

In the description above, all of the preferred component embodiments may be used individually or in combination.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention.

Examples

In the examples which follow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are given in percentages by weight of active ingredient (AM) based on the total weight of the composition.

Example 1 : Preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion

450 g of an amino silicone fluid (copolymer of aminoethyl-aminopropylmethylsiloxane - dimethylsiloxane terminated by trimethylsilyl with an amine number of 7.2 mg of KOH/g of sample) were introduced into an emulsion tank, and a viscosity of 5,600 mPa.s at 25°C). Stirring was started and 1,800 g of trimethylsilyl-terminated dimethylsiloxane polymer fluid with a viscosity of 61,500 mPa.s at 25° C. was introduced into the same tank with stirring. The two fluids were mixed for 2 hours at room temperature.

In a separate tank, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG-100 stearate were introduced and heated to 60° C. The temperature was maintained until both emulsifiers became liquid. Then, 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% active ingredient) were added. This mixture of non-ionic emulsifiers had an HLB value = 11.25.

Then, 80 g of water and 6.2 g of glacial acetic acid were added to the tank and mixing was started. We continued mixing until the whole mass became a creamy paste. All the paste was added to the emulsion tank. Homogenization was carried out for 30 minutes at room temperature. 79.6 g of deionized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 60 minutes. 72.7 g of deionized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 50 minutes. 197.4 g of deionized water was added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 294.3 g of deionized water was added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g of deionized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g of deionized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g of deionized water was added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g of deionized water were added and homogenized for 3 minutes. 228.5 g of deionized water was added and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes. Finally, 40.5 g of 2-phenoxyethanol as a biocide was added and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes.

A stable oil-in-water emulsion with a D50 particle size of 170 nm was obtained.

Example 2:

The following compositions A (Invention) and B (Comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below (% by weight of active material).

Ingredients Composition A
(Invention) Composition B
(Comparative) Coco betaine 1.2 1.2 sodium laureth sulphate 12.6 12.6 sodium chloride 1.3 1.3 Carbomer 0.36 0.36 Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer 0.072 0.072 Cetyl dimethicone (ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik) 2 - Dimethicone (BELSIL DM 60000 from Wacker) - 2 Polyquaternium-10 0.4 0.4 Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 Stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3
(from example 1) 5% emulsion, i.e. 0.5% AM of SiA + 2% AM of Si 5% emulsion, i.e. 0.5% AM of SiA + 2% AM of Si Glycerin 0.5 0.5 Hexylene glycol 0.15 0.15 Glycol distearate 0.16 0.16 Nucifera coconut oil 0.02 0.02 Preservatives, pH agent qs qs Water Qs 100 Qs 100

The silicone deposits of compositions A and B were evaluated on strands of natural hair and moderately bleached hair (ie damaged hair).

Evaluations were performed with WDXRF Optim's Thermofisher XRF system. The principle is based on the radiation emission characteristic of the chemical element, produced by the impact of high energy photons distributed by an X-ray tube.

Operational Parameters:

- Gas flow Helium - Argon/Methane (90/10)

- X-ray tube (Rh), Crystal PET and FPC detector

- voltage Voltage 25 kV – 2 mA

- 3 measures/wick = 60 s/measure

- minimum sample size 250 mg (2 mm pieces)

Protocol : 0.4 g of composition was applied per 1 g of lock of hair. We performed a massage with the shampoo 6 times using the fingers from root to tip, to generate foam. The lock was then rinsed under running water (25°C) for 10 seconds. The wick was then dried at 45°C in an oven. This procedure was counted as 1 wash followed by 4 more washes to complete a cycle of 5 washes.

The silicone deposits of compositions A and B were measured on keratin fibers after one application and after 5 applications for each.

The results are shown in Table 2 below.

Compositions Deposit of silicone AVERAGE (ppm) A ( Invention) 9339±93 B ( Comparison) 8539±88

It is observed that composition A according to the invention confers a better deposit of silicone on natural hair than comparative composition B.

Claims (10)

Composition comprising:
a) an oil-in-water emulsion having a D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:
- a mixture of silicones comprising (i) a dialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25° C. and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa. s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
- an emulsifier blend comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier blend has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and
- some water ;
b) one or more cationic polymer(s) and/or amphoteric(s); And
c) one or more (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) alkyl dimethicones. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the dialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl (i) is of formula (IX):
R' ₃ SiO(R' ₂ SiO) _p SiR' ₃
in which :
- the R', which are identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and
- p is an integer from 500 to 2000, preferably from 1000 to 2000;
and preferably is a trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amino silicone (ii) is of formula (X):
XR ₂ Si(OSiAR) _n (OSiR ₂ ) _m OSiR ₂ X
in which :
- the Rs, which are identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- the Xs, which are identical or different, are R or a hydroxyl group (OH) or a C ₁ to C ₆ alkoxy; preferably X is R,
- A is an amino radical of formula -R ¹ -[NR ² -R ³ -] _x NR ² ₂ , or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R ¹ is a C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene radical, of preferably a radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, the R ² , identical or different, are a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl radical , preferably a hydrogen atom, R ³ is a C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ -, and x is 0 or 1;
And
- m+n is an integer from 50 to approximately 1000, preferably from 50 to 600;
preferably A is an amino radical of formula -R ¹ -[NR ² -R ³ ] _x NR ² ₂ , or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R ¹ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, the R ² are hydrogen atoms, R ³ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ -, and x is 1. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mixture of emulsifiers comprises one or more nonionic emulsifiers chosen from:
(i) polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ethers, in particular (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula: R ₃ -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _c OH with:
- R ₃ representing a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₄₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C ₈ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and
- c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 150;
and more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO);
(ii) polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ )alkylphenyl ethers;
(iii) polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) sorbitan fatty acid esters, in particular polyethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably of 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylene sorbitan (C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ ) fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; And ;
(iv) polyoxyethylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated (C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ ) fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion a) has a D50 particle size of 100-300nm, preferably 150-250nm, more preferably 150-225 nm, and even more preferably 160 to 200 nm, expressed by volume. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic and/or amphoteric polymers b) are chosen from:

• cationic polysaccharides, preferably chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and mixtures thereof ;
• polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized acrylamide and/or methacrylamide unit(s); preferably from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one of the units of the following formulas:

(II) (III)
in which :
- the R's₁, which may be the same or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH radical₃;
- the Rs, which may be identical or different, denote a C alkyl radical₁to C₁₂linear or branched, preferably a C alkyl radical₁to C₆linear, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl radicals;
-R₅, R₆and R₇, which may be identical or different, denote a C alkyl radical₁to C₁₈linear or branched, or a benzyl radical, preferably a C alkyl radical₁to C₆linear or branched;
-R₈and R₉, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a C alkyl radical₁to C₆linear or branched, preferably methyl or ethyl; And
- Y^-denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably a bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, methosulphate, sulphate or phosphate anion;

• and their mixtures.

Composition according to any one of Claims 6, in which the polymer(s) b) is (are) chosen from
- (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl)tri(C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl)ammonium/(meth)acrylamide halide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/( meth)acrylamide, and more preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl)tri(C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl)ammonium/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid halide terpolymers, preferably terpolymers of (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid, more preferably acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido( _{C 1} to C 6 alkyl)tri(C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl) ammonium halide/(meth)acrylate (C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl)/acid (meth ) acrylic, preferably the terpolymers of (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/(meth)acrylate (C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl)/(meth)acrylic acid; more preferably acrylic acid/methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/methyl acrylates terpolymers,
- and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) alkyldimethicone(s) c) is (are) chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₆ )alkyl ) dimethicones; preferably (C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ )alkyldimethicones; more preferably from (C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ )alkyldimethicones; more preferably from lauryl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof; better still, the (C ₈ to C ₃₂ )alkyl dimethicone c) is cetyl dimethicone. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the ratio by weight of the total quantity of (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) alkyl dimethicone(s) c) relative to the total weight of the composition on the one hand, on the total quantity of cationic and/or amphoteric polymers b) relative to the total weight of the composition on the other hand, ranges from 0.001 to 300, preferably from 0.1 to 200; more preferably from 1 to 100; even more preferably from 5 to 50, and even better from 10 to 50 A process for treating keratin fibers, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, comprising applying to the keratin fibers a composition according to any preceding claim.